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Best Query of the Day

 

Funkiest Query of the Day... a tie
<Bob, where are you?! -Sara M.>

Re: Beginner Chiller Questions 5/11/08
Scott,
Thank you very much for the quick reply.
<Welcome.>
You are now the second professional that has told me not to use a chiller, and both from this site. I value all of your opinions very much, for you are out here giving us free advice about things you know and love.
<We do love and live the advice we give.>
So, that being said, please forgive me, as I intend not to challenge either one of your opinions, but rather seek to understand why and how.
<No problem, we are here to help others understand what we have learned!>
This is due to the engineering/science background that I have.
<Me too, I am the same way.>
Why don't you think I need a chiller for such high temps? I know the tank will reach 90 degrees over the week and a half I'm gone. Please, please explain to me in very simple terms why you think I don't need one, as I'm still very uncomfortable not getting one with the temps reaching that high.
<The livestock you have are fairly resilient. The need for a chiller mainly stems from keeping very delicate corals in situations where the temp. fluctuates quite a bit throughout the day, usually due to the intense lighting. Even in a full blown reef tank the temp. can be run into the mid 80’s (although not ideal), so long as this is consistent throughout the day.>
I seek to keep them between 73 and 75 on the high side. Of course, now that I've had two pros tell me I don't need a chiller, I am once again second-guessing my potential purchase.
<It will in no way be detrimental to your livestock, we both just feel it offers little if any benefit in regards to cost.>
Also, reading more and more on reef tanks, I'm not sure I'm ready yet to get into that. Lighting prices, live rock prices, the tolerances that these species have, and the fact that I have no RO machine, no top-off machine, no sump, and the water here is not the best all tell me that I need to not do a salt-water tank.
<I here you my friend. If this does appeal to you at all do consider watching the local newspaper or Craigslist ads. You can find amazing deals on a complete setup.>
With the canister filter and everything I've purchased geared towards freshwater, these fish, with the money I'm spending on them, better live for a while. <!!> So, until I can get the first refugium set up and running and get some experience with better water quality and the like, I'm probably better off sticking with FW and the forgiveness that my current species gives with environment. Hopefully some fish and corals out there are breathing a sigh of relief right now!!! :)
<In time…do set your sights.!>
As for the overflow boxes...
Thank you for clarifying that I can use PVC. I saw I needed to use rigid plumbing, but was uncertain whether or not PVC would leach chemicals into the water and whether or not the cement used to bond joints was safe for the aquarium.
<Hmm, glue, let cure for 24 hours and install.>
I was planning on going with this one from e-Shops: http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=18358
<The general design is a good one in regards the HOB boxes in general.>
It is a dual-pipe overflow with 1.5" openings (I read the first Overflow FAQ and saw I needed more than one and that bigger can never be too much).
<It does have dual tubes into the posterior of the box, but does sound like only one 1.5” bulkhead. This will limit the flow to an actual 750 gph or so.>
Does one box with two overflows count as more than one in your suggestion?
<In this case with two siphon tubes, yes. It is the siphon portion failing that is of concern. The bulkhead gravity drains and gravity has not yet let us down!>
I also wanted to "Y" the two outputs of the box together into one pipe. Is this ok to do?
<No, not on any overflow. The gravity flow depends on diameter/friction thereof. Combining two will cause them to flow as if they were just one.>
The blockages normally form inside the box and not the pipes themselves, correct?
<Here or there, blockages are not the concern. It is more an issue of air entering the siphon portion of the box, stopping the siphon.>
My biggest question with the HOB as you call it, is how to control the amount of water flowing down.
<By the pump input into the tank. The box will just remove water above a certain level, the pump will control how much and how fast above that level.>
This box I'm looking at is rated for 1600GPH as per the FAQ saying bigger is better, and in a refugium, as well as through my chiller, need much lower flows from what I've read. I was looking to go about a six-times turnover rate for it, roughly 120 GPH for my 20H tank. That's over 10 times less than the HOB flows!
<Redundancy is a good thing with overflows. This unit will only produce about 750 gph, you are still well under that.>
How in the world do I keep my main tank from flowing into the refugium so fast?
<Pump size/flow.>
I understand that eventually the tank level drops, and the HOB stops flowing, but I want to prevent a mass flood of water to the refugium, a stop in flow, and then the refugium pump playing "catch up" just to have it start all over again. Waves of water inside a salt tank are good, but the last thing I want in my freshwater tank is a wave of water flowing down to the refugium every couple of minutes! It may start to sound like a leaking toilet and I don't want that!
<All of the above is a common story with gravity fed overflows exceeding what they should run. Keep your flow to 750 or less and this will not be an issue.>
However, the lowest HOB I can find is a single 300GPH device. Two of these still overflows the 120GPH by almost six times. Two of these is more expensive than the single-box dual outlet as well.
<Yes, and if you are looking at the units I suspect, stick with the first box you have mentioned. A much better design.>
So, I know I'm missing something. I looked all over your site pages about overflows and can't find a single item telling me how the return flow from the pump regulates the flow out of the main tank. See why I say I'm not ready for a salt-water yet? :) I know these are very basic questions, but most of the FAQs on subjects like refugiums and sumps are way more advanced than I am currently at, and the last thing I want to do is waste money and frantically e-mail you guys. I'd rather think this through first with lots of questions instead of getting a lecture later! :)
<Hee, I understand, am currently in the same predicament re diving! The overflow will simply drain any water in your tank above a certain level. How fast water rises above this level is dependant on the size of the pump putting water into the tank, therefore how fast water is drained off.>
Next, I'm trying to determine what to put in my refugium. I keep seeing deep sand beds as being one of the best options, but I'm fearful that since I read all of this on marine aquariums, that it would not work on my freshwater.
<It does to an extent.>
I'm not even sure how deep I should make it. 4"? 6"? Again most of these questions are answered for marine systems... but not really clear for FW systems that I found so I'd rather ask.
<4-6” will be fine, generally deeper is better.>
I do plan on putting plants inside of it, but I also want some place to finalize the nitrogen cycle. I'm tired of changing out water based on nitrate readings. I want to change out the water on a 25% to 33% as most people do instead of 50% or more per week because nitrates are too high. Yes, I know, different fish would have prevented that. Chalk another one up for inexperience before I found your web site.
<A DSB will have a positive impact.>
From what I'm gathering, I can remove the air pump and stones all together?
<Yes.>
Even if I use glass-tops on the main tank and the refugium? When you stated that I can provide the filtration inside the sump, don't you mean refugium?
<Yes, I’m sorry, most of the people asking here use the terms interchangeably, I generally don’t. Good that you see the distinction!>
I am not going to be using a sump, per se. It will be refugium only. Sorry if that wasn't clear before. Now that it is, how would I get the mechanical filtration?
<A filter sock if you wish to get rid of the canister.>
That's also what my canister filter is for. Will I have to keep it for that?
<You don’t have to, but continuing its use is a good option, you do already have it.>
Currently it provides all three filtrations, as it should since I have no other device in the tank for filtration of any kind. I was also going to eventually add a second XP4 canister to increase filtration inside the tank. Does this sound like a good idea or would that $200 be better spent elsewhere?
<Hmm, elsewhere. A fairly complete SW setup can very often be had used for less than this!>
Last, will I have to clean out the refugium as if it were a main tank? Gravel vac, etc.?
<Same as marine, a bit of periodic stirring within the top inch or so to keep detritus out of the sand bed and into any mechanical filtration.>
I'm trying to figure out how to do this if I have a DSB... moving this around is a big no-no as it oxygenates the bed which is the opposite I'm trying to do.
<Yes.>
Thank you,
John
<Welcome, you do have fair grasp of what it takes. Try and you will learn more than anyone can teach! Scott V.>

old farm pond-old rotting steel standpipe- Replacing Pond Standpipe 5/11/08
Hello Robert
Hope you are well.
<He is, diving in the Red Sea presently with limited web access. Scott V. with you tonight.>
I have 3/4 acre pond and the water level keeps dropping because the standpipe is rotting. It is 6 inches in diameter. I'm hoping to dig down about a foot or two and find good metal and cut it off, then replace it with a rubber boot and 2 or 3 feet of PVC to get back to original water level. Thanks for any thoughts, suggestions, James F.
<Not much to say here, your plan sounds fine. You will need to cut back to good, non corroded pipe and replace. PVC is a much better choice per the application. A potentially big job, just make it fun, it can be!>

Survival of Moorish Idol vs. Ribbon eel in Captivity 5/11/08
Hey Crew,
<Hello>
I have recently gone to my LFS and saw a Black (juv.) ribbon eel in an adjacent tank to a Moorish Idol. As I do to before I purchase any saltwater fish, I asked the sales representative to feed the ribbon eel, and then Moorish Idol. The ribbon eel gradually came up and snatched a feeder goldfish from the tongs. Surprisingly, the Moorish Idol also went after the mysis shrimp being offered. My question is that from the research I have done, in any case, a Moorish Idol will perish in Captivity since at the end, they are still not receiving the sufficient nutrients that they require, such as the specific sponges, and inverts that they eat in the wild, as would a human would being fed popcorn for a while.
<Great analogy, fair statement, yes.>
However, is this the same for the ribbon eel?
<Feeding is one issue, the ability and drive to escape from the tank and just flat out stress being the others.>
If the eel has a good appetite, and considering that shipment was reasonable for the animal, would it also perish due to a lack of nutrients?
<If it is eating you have a shot, although do be sure it will feed on a marine diet, not feeder goldfish. You will need to seal off the top of the tank and any plumbing that the eel may escape through.>
Kishoth
<Good luck, a link and related FAQ’s regarding the eel below, Scott V.>
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ribbonmorayeels.htm

RE: Fairy Wrasses In a 350g Reef Tank – 05/12/08
Great name!
<<I agree!>>
Just 3 quick follow up questions.
<<Okay>>
I assume that when you say 2 harems of the same species you mean to add 10 or so with 2 being males and they will naturally split into 2 harems, or should I add batches of 5 and
5.
<<I would add all at once if possible…thus allowing the males to establish themselves at the same time>>
Also, I know you gave "approval" for a lone flame fairy wrasse. Would it be possible to have another harem of a different species, or better yet, several lone wrasses of different species?
<<A third harem is likely too much, but a few select individuals from differing species might work out in this big tank…given enough “cover” and not allowing too much time between the additions to soften the issues associated with “established” individuals>>
I know my tank is big, but I think I may be pushing it!
<<Indeed…>>
Lastly, I am going to put a plastic mesh over the openings (1/2" openings in a grid). Is this the best cover to minimize the amount of light lost before it even enters the tank?
<<It’s about the best you can do re. And don’t expect it to be foolproof, either. I’ve had fishes jump right through that little ½” opening>>
Thanks for the quick response.
<<Quite welcome>>
Looking forward to my fairy wrasse display.
Eric
<<Do let me know how it goes…I’m sure it will be spectacular. EricR>>

Anemone ID, Macrodactyla doreensis, LTA
Hi!
<Hello, Brenda here!>
Can you ID this anemone for me please? (see joined piece)
<Sure can!>
A reefer of my area bought it but I really don't know what kind it is...Regards.
<It is a Macrodactyla doreensis, commonly referred to as a Long Tentacle Anemone, or LTA. From the picture it appears as if this anemone is in the beginning stages of starvation. It needs to be fed small portions of meaty foods. More information regarding this animal found here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/macrodoreensis.htm
Hope this helps! Brenda>

Phosphat-e, Phosphate Remover 5/12/08
Dear Crew,
<Hello>
I have heard a lot lately about a product by Brightwell Aquatics called Phosphat-E, which is a liquid phosphate remover that is apparently safe for reef systems. The owner of my LFS uses it in his SPS tank and told me he notices an immediate difference in coral health after dosing. I know nothing of this product other than as stated above, but thought you might be interested/have some use for the attached. Also, if any of the Crew members uses this product, I'd love to hear any feedback.
Andy
<I have not used this product and would be extremely hesitant to add it to my tank without knowing what the "proprietary phosphate removers" are. As to whether it works or not I do not know, but I strongly recommend against adding unknown substances to your tank.>
<Chris>

From: info@brightwellaquatics.com [mailto:info@brightwellaquatics.com]
Sent: Sunday, May 11, 2008 5:23 PM
To: 'Andy
Subject: RE: Phosphat-e

Hello Andy,
Thank you for contacting us. We are in the process of updating our website to feature the most recently-released supplements; Phosphat-E is among these. I have attached an informational document for Phosphat-E to this message; please review it at your convenience and let me know if you have any questions. Thank you for your interest in Brightwell Aquatics; I sincerely appreciate it.
Kindest regards,
Chris Brightwell
President
Brightwell Aquatics

missing upper lip on powder blue tang
Hello all,
This is the first time I have ever posted to the site. The knowledge pass is incredible and I appreciate you taking the time to help me solve my
problem.  A couple of weeks ago we noticed our PBT no eating any of the prepared foods we feed our tank (Mysis Shrimp, Brine Shrimp, Krill, and rotifers, rotated or combined but not all together). We also offer Nori and variety of Brown and Red algae. We moved the BPT to a hospital tank yesterday. We have a little live rock and bunch of macro/micro algae. We moved it there in hope it would start eating. This morning I noticed his upper lip is missing. We are thinking the Social Wrasse is picking at (it tries to picks on everything).
<Perhaps... but what are the sizes of these tanks? (the display and the hospital) How big are the fishes?>
I have Blonde Nasso, Yellow tang, yellow coris, red spotted blenny, 5 blue Chromis, 2 clowns, and a lyre tail anthias in a 200 gal tank.  Any help would be appreciated.
<It's hard to say what happened without knowing more about your system. A picture of the injured fish would help too.>
Dave & Robin
<Best,
Sara M.>

LPS or Aptasia??
http://www.drekster.com/myrescues/whatamI.htm
<http://www.drekster.com/myrescues/whatamI.htm>
Yesterday I found some Aptasia which made me start digging for anymore and I found this pinkish stuff in the refugium. There were no live
corals in the refugium, just skeletons, so this is a complete surprise.  I went ahead and put this in the tank, where I can watch it closely,
flushed the aptasia. As I was studying this stuff it is different, both mouth and base are different than the aptasia. I seriously hesitate to
flush it without knowing what exactly it is. Kinda looks like some type of LPS to me??
<It looks like some type of bleached-out hitchhiker anemone (maybe not aptasia, but likely not anything you want in your tank-- just my opinion). If it doesn't retract into a skeleton when you poke it, then it's not a stony coral.>
Thank you for any help, hate to leave it in the tank for long if it's trouble, hate to flush it too.
Bridget
<Best,
Sara M.>

Bob F: Goldfish troubles and woes... -05/12/08
Hi bob (or whoever this email may find)
You've helped me in the past with my Fish Rupert along time ago (thanks again) and I mentioned using my art to help spread some goldfish information
so people stop making the same mistakes in caring for goldfish as I did in the beginning. (ie the myth that goldfish belong in bowls)
<ah>
I'm working on a small book with some of my art, and one of the spreads I've dedicated to goldfish facts. I'd like to put 5 or 6 short, solid facts that
sum up why goldfish can't go in bowls. Perhaps I could even place a link for further care to wetwebmedia.com? (only if I'm given permission)
<You are free to link to WWM. And just fyi, asking for permission to link to a webpage might be good cyber etiquette, there's no law that requires you do to so. You don't actually need a site's permission to plainly link/reference to their page (assuming you're not deep linking to an audio or video file or in anyway attempting to claim the site's work as your own, etc.--common sense applies, obviously).>
I was curious if you could take a look and give me any input on what the best facts to sum up my message could be.
<Hmm, if I were taking on such a project, I would simply read through the goldfish articles and FAQs here (and other reliable sources) to get some general ideas/principles. It seems to me that one of the problems people often have with goldfish, as you seem to be emphasizing in your work, is that they mistakenly think that they can be kept in small bowls/containers with little or no filtration. Goldfish are not bettas. They produce a lot of ammonia and should be kept in appropriated sized and filtered tanks.>
Attached is what I have so far! I was also wondering if you could not post the art on your website, since it has no copy right on it yet.
<Hehe, you have a copyright on it the moment you draw/print/create the work. Unlike trademarks and patents, you don't have to register or apply for copyrights, they are "automatically" created the moment your work comes into being. However, if you want to be thoroughly protective of your work, you can submit it to the Library of Congress for registration (giving you a registered copyright). For more info, please see:
http://www.copyright.gov/
And since you already have a copyright in your work, I must heed your request that we not publish it. ;-)>
Thanks again for all the help you've given me in the past.
Take care
mike
<Thank you for writing,
Sara M.>
ps. feel free to see more of my art work at www.michaeldimotta.com
<Very nice! I will leave this in BobF's inbox in case he has anything to add once he has internet access again.>

Cleaner animals, Compatibility 5-12-08
Hi Crew.
<Hello>
I've got a really quick, hopefully simple question. I know that the markings on cleaner animals signal to other fish that they are, in fact, cleaners, and that most other fish will not eat a cleaner animal, even though they are predators and easily could. But how do you know which animals will or won't leave a cleaner alone?
<There is no definite way, and in an aquarium environment all bets are off.>
I know some won't--years ago I saw a sargassum fish swallow a cleaner wrasse twice his length. But I know morays will (at least the shrimp).
<There are also many tales of morays happily gobbling up their cleaner tankmates.>
I have a cleaner goby who has been in my QT for several months, partly for his own quarantine and partly as a cleaner for other fish in the QT. But there's currently nobody else in the QT, and I don't think there will be for awhile. I would love to put the goby in my FOWLR tank. All the fish in that tank are quite large. I am fairly certain that the angelfish and butterfly will leave it alone (or seek cleaning), and so will the foxface. The blue damsel might chase it?
<Possible>
But the biggest question: will the male bluejaw trigger see it as a cleaner to be left alone or even utilized, or will he see it as a snack?
Jim
<May very well be aggressive or attack the goby, although not necessarily. The trigger being from the Pacific and the goby from the Atlantic may also lend itself to aggression. Unfortunately when talking about the size difference and damage potential of the trigger, one event may prove fatal, and not allow for separation after observation. If you do not mind keeping the second tank for the goby I would probably continue with the current living arrangements.>
<Chris>

Re: bettafix not helping fin and tail rot
Thank you for your advice. It's been a few days and he seems to be getting better with just using the Bettafix and an Anti-bacteria food by Jungle the pet store fish specialist recommended.
<Bettafix is almost completely useless, but food with antibiotics may help, provided the fish is eating a sufficient quantity.>
They advised me to stay away from the Maracyn because it is meant for larger tanks and would be way to strong for him in his little fish bowl.
<Think about this for a moment, and judge for yourself. A concentration of 1 mg/l is one milligram per litre whether it's a swimming pool or a thimbleful of water. Logically, provided you dose the correct amount of medication relative to the volume of water, there's no risk of any kind whatsoever. If you overdose -- that may well be a bad thing. But that's a risk in any tank, whether a bowl or a jumbo aquarium.>
Now I'm concerned about a lump under his chin or on his throat that I just noticed could be related to his eating problem.
<Simply looks like a very underweight, sick Betta to me.>
I brought him to Petsmart and the fish specialist said it looks like it could be an ulcer, or some type of internal infection and that's when they recommended the special food.
<Hmm...>
I've been crushing one anti-bacteria food pellet and sprinkling it in his water about twice a day. Sometimes he eats a tiny piece, but he doesn't seem too happy with it.
<I bet.>
The food bottle says "Do not use other foods during this period and use exclusively for 5-10 days. After 5 days, should I let him take a break and feed him a treat like bloodworms? (I've never fed him anything but pellets before.)
<By all means let him eat something else once you've finished the treatment.>
Also, what could this lump be?
<No idea.>
Do you think he has a more serious infection along with the finrot?
<There's *nothing* more serious than Finrot. Let's be clear about this: Finrot is a secondary infection caused (almost always) by poor water quality. It means that Aeromonas and Pseudomonas bacteria in the water, where they normally do no harm, have overwhelmed the fish's immune system. They start by damaging the fins and skin, which is Finrot, but those same bacteria work their way inwards, ultimately leading to a blood infection (septicaemia) that kills fish. You MUST treat Finrot aggressively. I'd use Maracyn in this instance REGARDLESS of any (imaginary) risk because the fish WILL die otherwise.>
And can special food heal him alone?
<Unlikely if he's eating so small an amount.>
Are the pet store people right in saying that maracyn is too strong (because if his fins keep healing like they are and his color keeps coming back like it is then will bettafix be all I need?
<Bettafix is Tea Tree oil. If you had a septic wound, would you ask your doctor for antibiotics or some kind of herbal remedy that hadn't been tested by doctors and hadn't been validated scientifically?>
Also, one more little thing I've noticed. Whenever I'm with him or talking to him or feeding him, he goes up to the surface, takes big gulps of air and blows bubbles.
<Normal behaviour; these are air-breathing fish, and every minute or so will have to gulp air.>
I read online that blowing bubbles means bettas are happy and would like to mate, but if he's sick, it doesn't make any sense.
<You're thinking of bubblenest building, which is quite different.>
Can you help me solve this mystery illness?-Erika
<Well, I hope this helped! Cheers, Neale.>

Newts hand fell off and possible ich? 5/12/08
Hi,
<Hello>
We have a tank with an Eastern spotted newt, snails, a mussel, a tadpole & plants. I got them all from a biological supply company. I've had the tank set up like this for more than a month. We don't have the filter on all the time because I've read so much that low flow is good for newts.
<Yes, but so is good water quality.>
I have a new filter & I turn it on once a day for 30-60 minutes. The tadpole seems healthy but when I turn on the filter he can get sucked over to the intake.
<I would use a piece of sponge over the filter intake to slow the inflow, but allows you to run the filter 24-7, which is really what is needed. Amphibians are very sensitive to poor water quality.>
I do water changes 1x week. I don't have the heater on. We feed the newt worms from our yard every other day.
<Probably needs more variety to its diet.>
The newt's front left hand fell off - I don't know why. I'm hoping that it will grow back.
<Most likely due to water quality.>
There are now white spots on the rock, stick & aquarium wall. Is it ich?
<No>
Is that bad for the tadpole? You said ich meds can be harmful to newts.
<Copper is very deadly to inverts and amphibians, and will not help what you have here.>
A more natural ich treatment said to turn up the heat but I don't want to do this because newts like it cool. How can I tell if the mussel is healthy or even alive?
<I'm guessing you have a freshwater clam. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_4/V4I2/golden_clams/golden_clams.htm >
Any help on any of the problems/ questions would be much appreciated. I have a new computer and I'm having troubles with the picture editing - I'm sorry they're big.
<Looks like the white spots are bacterial or fungal growths, most likely will clear up with improved water quality. Is definitely not Ich which is not visible to the naked eye nor able to infect anything besides fish. Please see here for more http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/salamnewtFAQs.htm >
<Chris>

Morning crew! -Clark clown aggression -05/12/08
<Good Morning, Brenda here! >
I have seemed to hit a roadblock and need some advice.
<Okay!>
This is regarding one of my Clark clowns. The biggest is a bad SOB!
<Female!>
She reigns supreme as the queen bee in my tank. I have a 90 gallon hooked up to a 75 gallon sump. Water parameters are all normal. Here is my issue. I originally had a 55 gallon tank with my two Clarkii, a golden wrasse, and a bi-color blenny. The biggest clown hosts my BTA that I have had now for two years. The BTA was in there before I added the clowns. She took to it the second I dropped her in. My two clowns don't seem like a pair to me and never have. The bigger one hosts the BTA and the smaller one is not allowed in. She chases him until he does the "dance" and then she stops chasing him. Sometimes he gets chased into rockwork and she has a difficult time getting into some of the smaller areas.
<Good!>
She is double his size an always has been since the day I dropped them in.
<How long have they been together? >
Still they just don't strike me as a match. Anyways, I eventually upgraded to a 90 gallon tank. My first attempt at adding a new fish ended up with a not so happy ending. I tried adding a Royal Gramma and the second I placed him in the water my clown swam up behind it and fed it to my anemone.
<Ouch!>
It happened so fast I was in shock.
<I can imagine!>
My next attempt was in adding cleaner shrimp to the tank. Yea, I know what your thinking "are you crazy" but this time I came prepared!
<HeeHee!>
I gave her some krill to feed her BTA and let her get it out of her system. I dropped 3 cleaner in case one bit the bullet on entry. To my surprise they all made it and have been in there for a while without any issues.
<Great!>
They even go over to her and the BTA and she leaves them alone. From there on in, this was my strategy. I had added a Naso tang in the same fashion and he turned out ok.
<A 90 gallon tank is not large enough for this fish. >
Then came the Chromis! I got them in all alive and well acclimated. All of them were eating and then one night I woke up and there one of them looked like he had been attacked on his side. I know Chromis have a Peking order of aggression and chucked it up to that. My clowns chase them but I never see them catch them or bite them and usually this happens when they swim close to the BTA.
<I’m betting that the Clarkii is innocent in this case. It is more likely that the Chromis was sick. Clownfish don’t typically leave their anemone at night.>
My smaller Clark hosts some Anthelia and he isn't as protective.
<The smaller one is the male, this normal. His job is to protect the eggs. >
Anyway, I woke up this weekend and found one of my Chromis dead with a clear hole in his side!! Now there are 4. Not sure if he got taken out at night by a crab or if my clowns are beating them to death.
<It is very possible that the crab got a hold of him. All crabs are opportunistic feeders and will kill small sleeping fish. For this reason, I do not keep crabs in my main tank. They are excellent for the sump. Were there any bristle worms near the dead fish? It is possible that the hole in the fish was caused by the clean up crew doing their job. >
I don't see them doing any damage while I'm observing the tank, which I do for long periods of time a day. Also I had 6 Chromis and one is MIA and hasn’t been seen.
<Have you checked the overflow compartment? Do you quarantine your fish? >
I thought about moving them into my sump until they get bigger or bringing them back. If I brought them back what can I put in my tank that will defend itself from my clowns? I have stayed away from other damsels because they are aggressive but it seems I can't keep peaceful fish with my clowns.
<Clownfish and Chromis are both damsels. I would avoid adding more damsels. >
I did see a golden domino damsel I liked but figured if I were to add a fish like that he should be last or never at all... Hehe.
What do I do?
<I would wait a few months to see what is going to happen to the rest of the Chromis. After that, I would stick to semi-aggressive fish such as a Pseudochromis. You can also try rearranging part the tank when you add new fish. This sometimes reduces any territorial issues. Unfortunately with your size tank, and the fact that you need reef safe fish, you are a bit limited as to what you can add. >
P.S- removing my Clarks is not an option. Everyone who observes my tank always has something bad to say about my female clown because they hate how she runs the show but I'm attached to her.
<That is the nature of the female clownfish. You may find less aggression in some of the other species of clownfish such as A. Percula or A. Ocellaris. However, the female will always be in charge. >
She isn't going anywhere but the show must go on!!!
<Hope this helps! Brenda>

Anemone, Zooxanthelle, Dead Anemone – 5/12/08
Hi
<Hi Jim, Brenda here!>
I have a white anemone that has shrunk into it self and polyps seem to have gotten extremely small.
<A white anemone has expelled its zooxanthellae. Those are tentacles, not polyps. >
Also it looks like it's shedding. Is it dead? Or dyeing and should I get it out of the tank?
If its falling apart, its dead, get it out by placing it in a container inside the tank so that you can catch most of the particles. Then do a large water change. Keep an eye on water parameters, and be prepared for more water changes over the next several days. >
Thanks
Jim
<Anemones are delicate animals. Please research their care and be sure you have provided an adequate environment before purchasing another. More information on anemones found here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm
Brenda>

Sick lion fish 5/12/08
I have a volitan lionfish I've had for about 3 months now and he has been fine but the other day he just went to the bottom of the tank and sits there with his fins tucked in and won't swim and when he tries to its like his tail won't move. He just sits there and every once in a while he darts really fast then goes back to just sitting. What can it be? All water levels are fine.
<Sounds like an environmental problem, please post your water parameter numbers, "fine" does not give us the needed information. Also tank size, feeding habits/foods, tankmates are all helpful.>
<Chris>

Not sure what to look for...
Crew,
Honestly not sure what to look under... I bought a small Atlantic Blue Tang, 3-4", still in it's Juvi coloration. I brought him home and housed him in a 20 gallon QT tank, bare bottom, some live rock moved from the main tank, and a small hang on back power filter. He was purchased on saturday, and did wonderfully for a week. On the 7th eve (last night) I found him vertical on the tank floor, his face down, tail up, leaning against the live rock. I was putting some Caulerpa (sp) algae in there at the time. Shortly thereafter I saw him right himself, swim up, eat a branch of algae, and resume normalcy. This morning he is much worse, upside down, still alive and breathing, but obviously not for long. He had been fed for a week with mysis, marine cuisine, emerald entree, etc. Water at start of QT is the same as it is now, with 0ppm Ammonia, Nitrites, <10 Nitrates, PH of 8.2 and temp of 79 degrees. Salinity is 1.025. He was doing PERFECT until last night. Eating wonderfully. The only thing that I have found was in Mr. Fenner's book, swim bladder disease, but I only mention this because it's the only thing that has similar symptoms. In his state, his color is the same, he's just upside down and dying. Why the rapid decent? It just doesn't fit a parasite mold to me, and it was so sudden that treatment was, well, too late, even if I knew what to treat it for.
<Sometimes these things happen. Juveniles are particularly volnurable to the stresses of being captured, shipped, etc. The fish was likely already injured/sick when you got it. Please see here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/mardisease.htm>
Thanks,
Thomas
<Best,
Sara M.>

v tail aggression
Hello crew
I have a 90 gal fowlr setup with 2 dwarf lionfish and a 6 inch v tail grouper. Every time I put my hand in the tank my grouper darts at me with super speed. I cant rearrange my live rock I want to form more cave like formations. How can I stop him from attacking me without injuring him? I do not want to damage my fish do you have any suggestions?
<Have you tried/considered wearing gloves? -Sara M.>