FAQs on the Flowerhorn Cichlid Disease 3
Related Articles: Flowerhorns by Ong, Blood Parrots & Flowerhorn
Cichlids: maintenance and healthcare of two popular hybrid
by Neale Monks, Cichlid Fishes,
Related FAQs: Flowerhorn Disease 1,
Flowerhorn Disease 2, Flowerhorn Disease 4, Flowerhorn Disease 5,
FAQs on Flowerhorn Cichlid Disease by Category:
Nutritional (e.g. HLLE),
Infectious (Virus, Bacterial, Fungal),
Parasitic (Ich, Velvet...), Genetic,
& Flowerhorns, Flowerhorn Identification, Flowerhorn Behavior, Flowerhorn Compatibility, Flowerhorn Selection, Flowerhorn Systems, Flowerhorn Feeding, Flowerhorn Reproduction,
Dwarf South American
Cichlids, African Cichlids,
Angelfishes, Discus, Chromides, Neotropical Cichlids,
Emergency help pls 7/2/11
Help my flower horn just a few days ago got scared sum
how is sitting in the corner with his body color black n he gets scared
to go up and eat the food. Before he got scared he was very energetic,
aggressive and happy. He is a Singapore species. Pls reply as soon as
<Flowerhorn cichlids, like other cichlids, tend to be nervous if
their aquarium is too small. So first of all, make sure the tank is big
enough, i.e., at least 75 gallons/300 litres. Secondly, they dislike
Plastic plants are useful for providing shade. Also, brightly coloured
substrates that bounce light upwards will stress them too. Finally,
like all fish, they become nervous if water quality and water chemistry
inadequate. Flowerhorn cichlids need good water quality (0 ammonia, 0
nitrite, and less than 20 mg/l nitrate) and water chemistry that is
hard and alkaline (15+ degrees dH, pH 7-8). Do read:
Re: Emergency help pls, FH... -- 07/02/11
my tank is 5ft long and its not too bright too but I don't know how
to read the ammonia,
<Ammonia test kit.>
<Nitrate test kit, though I would argue you need a nitrite (NO2-)
test kit before either nitrate (NO3-) or ammonia (NH3).>
and ph levels
<pH test kit.>
can u tell me how to read? there is nothing in the tank. 4 months ago
it killed its brothers.
some days ago my dad put some salt to the tank
<Salt is of minimal/no value as a general tonic; read:
what can it do to my fish?
<Read about what these fish actually need, and act accordingly.
Re: Emergency help pls -- 07/03/11
I tried it the water chemistry is all good as u said 2 check it. The
place is nt too bright or too dark n no substrate there reflects light.
but still it is scared. my dad said its type of a season for it cuz the
happening to his fh.tnx in adv.
<Please try and write in standard English, not "text
messaging". What you're saying here isn't clear. Now,
don't tell me you think the water chemistry is "good" --
tell me what the specific numbers are! What is, at
minimum, the pH and the nitrite level? If there is no substrate, that
is bad, because glass will reflect light upwards. Flowerhorns don't
act weird in summer, so season has nothing to do with this. Please do
understand that in much of the world Flowerhorns are kept very badly,
and very few live for anything like their full lifespan. They need very
specific care. If you don't provide that care, your Flowerhorn
well. Cheers, Neale.>
Sick Flowerhorn 6/8/11
Good evening. I hope that you can help me or at least shed some light
on my problem as none of the aquatic stores in my area seems to be able
to. I had 2 short bodied Flowerhorns, I now have one. A month or so ago
my biggest Flowerhorn started to sit on his head at the bottom of the
tank. He would come up to eat and then go back to sitting on his head.
Eventually he stopped eating and some of the other fish (black belt,
green terror, red terror, blue eyed cichlid, parrot fish, jack
Dempsey), started picking at him and we had to take him out of the
tank. He eventually died. Now, my other Flowerhorn is doing the exact
same thing. The pH, nitrites, nitrates, etc are spot on. Water is
crystal clear and none of the other fish are having any problems. I
have treated the tank thinking he has a swim bladder issue but that did
nothing. I read on your website that it could possibly be "poor
genes" but could this be the case with both of these fish? I sure
hope you can help. Thank you so much for your time. Leslie
< Your "short " Flowerhorn may also have a modified
intestinal track. Since everything else looks good I would start
looking at the diet. Normal cichlids seem to be doing fine, but the
Flowerhorns are having internal issues. This could be caused by stress
or by diet. I would isolate the sick fish in a hospital tank and treat
with a combination of Metronidazole and Nitrofuranace. When he acts
normal then try to feed a new type of food.-Chuck>
Re: Sick Flowerhorn 6/8/11
Source for Flowerhorn Info
Thank you so much for your help but unfortunately me email to you was a
little too late and my fish died. I will however keep this information
if I decide to try raising Flowerhorns again. They were such beautiful
fish and I hate that I lost them both to something that appears to have
been preventable. Where can I get good, reliable information on this
specific fish and how to care for them? Not that you aren't
reliable but I don't think you want me emailing you every other day
with questions. Again thanks so much for everything. Leslie
< A few years ago Flowerhorns were very popular and I believe there
was a book on Flowerhorns. Never read it but it could be worth a
Flower horn sick after feeding pork....Please help!
I am Suresh from India. I have a 1year old Flower horn. She is normally
very active & a voracious eater. But 3 days back I fed her pork
after which she does not eat at all & is not active. She sits at
the bottom of the tank most of the time. She also has developed a small
bulge in the abdomen. I came to know after referring the net that pork
is not suitable for flower horns'¦but what do I do now to make
her well. Please help as I don't want to lose her.
<Greetings, Suresh. Hope you've learned your lesson here! Do
not, Do Not, DO NOT give bird or mammal meat to aquarium fish -- EVER!
In short, mammal and bird meats congeal inside cold-blooded animals,
and in doing so, cause them varying degrees of harm. Of course some
cold-blooded animals are adapted to dealing with such prey, like
snakes, but not your cichlid. Your cichlid should be fed a mix of
pellet foods, cooked peas, spinach, and small invertebrates such as
earthworms. For now, you just have to wait and see what happens.
Don't feed her until her belly comes back to normal. When she does
start eating, give her just cooked peas (squashing the peas as well
sometimes helps) -- peas are excellent laxatives for fish. You can also
use Epsom salt (magnesium sulphate; not cooking salt, i.e., sodium
chloride!) at 1 tablespoon per 5 gallons will help a good deal by
loosening the muscles of the gut, reducing swelling. But that's
about all you can do. Cheers, Neale.>
gill infection. Killing a FH, env. 3/18/11
Hi WWM crew
I have a Flowerhorn approx 9 inches in length. He is housed in
a 20 gallon tank.
<This is too small a volume for this fish>
My fish is suffering from gill infection.
<Mmm, no... this fish is suffering from the above... an
environmental situation. Only fix-able by being placed in a much larger
world... 50-60 gallons minimum>
He has red swollen gills. This problem occurred when I changed the
<... also a poor idea>
I have added Oxytetracycline 250 mg 2 tabs to the tank. I would like to
know whether this is the right treatment or could you help me with the
Thanks in advance.
<Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/flowerhornsysfaq.htm
and all the linked files above re this cross. Bob Fenner>
very urgent question on Flowerhorn 1/9/11
I have a question regarding my Flowerhorn, he's is a male, almost a
feet length & from the last week or so he is not stable I suspect
he has a swim bladder issue, he has been swimming upside down & nw
he has also hurt his head kindly advise
<More likely suffering because of poor environmental conditions.
Cichlids are very sensitive to high nitrate levels for example, and
these will cause symptoms including poor swimming ability and
"pits" (caused by Hexamita infections) on the head.>
diet ( xo humpy head only)
<Needs more than this. Fresh green foods are especially
matter most urgent plz reply
<Please read here:
The majority of Flowerhorn problems come down to inadequate care.
Review their needs and act accordingly. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: very urgent question on Flowerhorn 1/9/11
grt help sir :)
let me do hw you have advised but I don't know hw my fiffy will
react or adopt to new food habits :)
<A good approach is to medicate using a combination of Metronidazole
and a Furan compound such as Nitrofurazone, Furanace or Nitrofuran.
Together these seem to fix a lot of cichlid problems.
You may be able to buy these medications from the aquarium shop (in the
US for example) but often you'll need to ask a vet for them. If the
problem isn't too far developed, simply improving the environment
may cause the fish to get better. But using these two medications will
be essential if the fish has been substantially weakened. Good luck!
Re: very urgent question on Flowerhorn 1/9/11
<Not for me I'm afraid! Feeling very sick, and didn't sleep
at all last night.>
I have a atman aquarium tank (AR-980) series & its 3ft length &
18" height ,,
<Apparently this aquarium measures 100 x 45 x 43 cm, i.e., 193,500
cubic centimetres or 193.5 litres or 51.1 US gallons. That's too
small for a Flowerhorn, which really needs 75 gal/283 litres.>
I have 3 filters trays which is inbuilt & two filters running round
But from the last 3 years I haven't cleaned 1 tray coz I was
advised the fish should have some bacterial water which its used
<Filters should be cleaned every 6-8 weeks. Put aquarium water in a
bucket and rinse off all the media. This will preserve the filter
I have no idea but if you suggest me about it then I can clean up every
thing including that tray also which I not touched @ol :(
<I don't understand what "@ol" means.>
I dint feed fiffy two full days & now he's ok slowly getting
better am soaking 8 pellets a day & giving him which he eats ;)
Sir I have set temperature @25 (Heater ) should be switched on round
the clock ? Or no ?
<He needs a constant 25 C, all the time.>
Now for my fiffy I need to change to some good tin fiber food available
in India pls suggest
<Cooked peas and spinach should be available in India. These are
good green foods for cichlids. If necessary, let your cichlid starve
for a few days. He can go without food for 2-3 weeks if necessary!
Fresh greens will reduce the risk of constipation. But if your fish is
ALREADY sick, you need a combination of Metronidazole and a Furan
compound such as Nitrofurazone, Furanace or Nitrofuran as stated
He is only used to XO
<Don't allow your fish to become addicted to just one
Some time if you can come online you can see my fiffy ;)
Bloated Flowerhorn Cichlid 12/29/10
Hi, I have a Flowerhorn fish for the past 3 years. She has been very
active and playful. My brother cleans the tank once a month or twice a
month (4 feet in length) with 40% of fresh water. She feeds on pellets.
When we give her live fishes, she kills them, but does not eat them.
For the past 1 week, I have noticed that her stomach is bloated. When
asked a local aquarist, he examined the fish and gave us some medicine,
but still it has not recovered.
It has been 1 week now. She has not eaten for the past 3 weeks. Kindly
help.... I don't want her to die. Looking forward for your
< Internal infections take time to recover. Keep the water clean and
hopefully the medication have some Metronidazole and Nitrofuranace in
Try and keep the nitrates under 10 ppm. Monthly water changes may not
Requesting information on Flower Horn disease
Flowerhorn with HITH Disease 12/9/10
Hello, My flower horn developed medium-size blisters (around 1/4 of an
inch) on its head that eventually popped and they now look red as the
skin is gone and they are raw (it turned into a big open, raw patch as
the blisters exploded). This is the second time it happened. I
apparently cured her the first time but he got it for the second time,
one after the other, only 2 days apart. Just after I put the carbon in
and it looked like the situation was normal, the blistered came back,
exactly in the same area as before which is on the
fish's head. She is a female and almost 7 years old, the only fish
in a 55 gallon tank running on two Emperor 400 by Marineland, pads and
carbon are changed on a regular basis, one filter at a time so that the
biological filtration is not affected. I changed the water in large
doses (before and after and between
doses) and added cichlids salt and regular salt (the type intended for
fish). She was never fed feeders, only pellets, shrimp and bloodworms.
She was never overfed or underfed. The fish was treated with E.M.
While being medicated, I used an Aqua Clear filter 500, the largest one
from the manufacturer and two
large air stones. I did that in order not to infect the emperor filters
and I used a 30 gallon tank as a quarantine setup. She is still in the
quarantine tank as of now. What would be the next step?
Thank you in advance for all your help. Best regards.
< Your Flowerhorn has a case of Hole In The Head (HITH) disease. It
generally affects New World cichlids. The cause is unknown at this
time. It may be related to stress, diet or environmental factors. For
now I would recommend checking the water chemistry. The nitrates should
be under 20 ppm but the lower the better. I would change brand of
pellets to see if that made a difference. I would skip the bloodworms
for now. Try treating with a medicated food with Metronidazole in it.
The open wounds can be treated with Furan-2.-Chuck>
FH .. Urgent problem Female Flowerhorn Possibly Egg
Hey WWM. Salute you all. This is Sam again. I have the following
problem. My female FH wants to lay eggs since past 6 days but is
not able to or doesn't want to lay due to some reasons.
Problem is she has a black spot and a tail like structure on her
papilla. I don't know what is it. I even don't weather is
is normal or not. I have attached some pics for the same. I also
performed a water change ( 70% ) because I thought that water
must be the reason. She has stripes all over the body and swims
freely with the male. Her size is 3.5". Hope you reply me as
soon as possible cuz this problem is not letting me sleep ! Thanz
in advance ! WWM rockZ !! :)
< If the pair are acting like they are going to spawn, like
digging a pit and flaring, then I would increase the water temp
to the low to mid 80's F. That should get them going. If they
are not going through the courting rituals then it could be an
internal blockage that has forced the genitalia out of the body
cavity. Treat in a hospital tank with a combination of
Metronidazole and Nitrofuranace. If she is still eating normally
then give her a medicated food with these medications already in
Re: hi crew.. (sick Flowerhorn, no
Thanks for early reply :). Appreciated ,. Neale,.
As you wanted more information with regard to other aspects I am
providing you ,. One and half year aged flower horn ,. My tank
size is 300 liters ,.
<80 US gallons'¦ a good amount for a single
<Whether this is acceptable will depend on where you live. An
average water temperature of 25 C is about right, slightly cooler
at night will be fine. On the other hand most cichlids will be
stressed by being kept colder than 18-22 C, depending on the
I am feeding grand sumo pellets in the morning 10 pellets ,.
Humpy head pellets in the night 10 pellets ,. At times boiled
green peas once a week ,.
<While these are good foods, I would vary them a bit more.
More plant material would be good, e.g., spinach or floating
Indian Fern. I'd also offer a lot more "whole"
foods, for example krill, bloodworms or earthworms. These have
lots of indigestible material that helps keep bowel movements
regular. The problem with pellet foods is they tend to cause
constipation. If you imagine a person who just at meat but no
vegetables, you can see the problem. In the wild cichlids will be
sifting small invertebrates out of mud, and in the process eating
a lot of indigestible matter that acts like fibre.>
Water test all under control ,. I mean the parameters are fine
<Meaning what? Zero ammonia and zero nitrite? Nitrate level 20
mg/l or less?>
temperature 25 degree Celsius,, I siphon the tank once a week,,
20% water change weekly,,
All is fine with my flower horn I am worried for the reason its
kind of floating near the top of the tank ,. Its not that its not
moving around it is but kind of head semi down position mostly
staying on top ,. Help Neale...tc cr azam..
<My gut feeling here is that constipation is the most likely
problem. If appetite is normal, and there's no sign of wounds
on the body or tears in the fins, and the fish has normal
colouration, it's most likely constipation is the problem.
Re: re: hi crew.. (sick Flowerhorn, no data) [Bob, bad
hi Neale....sorry to bother you ...kinda worried for my
Flowerhorn...read other FAQ on your website but couldn't
relate my problem with them that's why bothering you ,,,,Neal
I think its getting worse the problem ....from the past two days
my Flowerhorn is struggling to stay upright
<I can see.>
...its like its floating around at the top of the water
surface...and mostly headstanding ....tail up....head down
position...and even though its swimming but the head is pointing
down always ....its appetite is good, coloration is good
...responding nicely to the finger movement....Neal got a
question ....if constipated do they do head
<Not usually, no.>
two days once he is pooping and the color of the feces is light
brown ,,,this I can confirm to you is for the fact that I kept it
a bare bottom tank....if as you said constipation what is the
treatment for it ?????
<Feed more green foods, e.g., cooked peas, cooked spinach.
Also use "whole" crustaceans, particularly brine shrimp
and daphnia. Do not, do not, DO NOT use any dried foods (pellets,
flake, etc.) until the fish is swimming normally.>
attaching few pictures of it ....hope you can catch the problem
...thanks a ton Neale for your timely help'¦.
<Constipation might be an issue, but my honest guess is a
deformed swim bladder. In other words, bad genes. The problem
with Flowerhorn cichlids is they are mass produced by people
interested in money. In Asia especially, some people think these
fish are "lucky" so breeders produce lots and lots of
them. These breeders have no interest at all in whether they are
good quality fish. After all, a sale is a sale! Once the fish is
out the door, and the money is in the bank, who cares whether the
fish lives a happy, healthy life? So the bottom line is that
unless you buy a Flowerhorn from a breeder you know and trust,
there's almost no way to be sure what you're getting is
any good. Cichlids do sometimes go loopy and lose their balance
if exposed to poor environmental conditions, e.g., cold, but
assuming you are providing the right conditions -- 25 C, 0
ammonia, 0 nitrite, 10+ degrees dH hardness, pH 7-8 -- then my
money would be on either constipation or bad genes.>
<I have no idea what "tk" and "cr"
Re: re: hi crew.. (sick Flowerhorn, no data) [Bob, bad
oh I c ....hoping that god willingly it should be constipation
will stop feeding dry pellets...and start with the diet what you
..hope he gets back to his normal self .
Neal if I mean if its a genetical disorder what do you suggest
...is there any possible treatment which I will be very glad to
provide my Flowerhorn with,
<Not really. Genes are genes, and you can't
is there anything we can do to make him comfortable should I put
an end to his suffering..
<If he's happily eating, I wouldn't worry too much.
But if he can't feed himself, then that's more of a
since myself and my family are very much attached to it...cant
see it suffering '¦
<Do read here:
("tk cr" means TAKE CARE....apologies for
<I see. We don't really like "text speak" here
at Wet Web Media. I'm too old for that sort of thing!>
Neal can you let me know looking at the pictures whether my
Flowerhorn is a male or a female....thanks a lot Neale for advice
<You are most welcome. Cheers, Neale.>
hi crew.. (sick Flowerhorn, no data) - 10/09/10
Hi crew ...this is Azam ,. I am from India ,. First of all let me
appreciate you guys for doing such a wonderful job for providing a much
needed advice on flower horn species ,. gr8 help thanks a lot ,.
Problem with my flower horn is off late it started staying near top of
the tank with head pointing semi down ,. It is very active ,. Appetite
is great ,. Colour is good ,. Normal poop ,. Water parameters all under
control as you guys have advised in your FAQ section ,. It did had a
bit of itching problem so gave it salt treatment itching gone,. Only
problem is its staying at one place semi head pointing down position ,.
Kindly help ,.
Thanks Azam ,.god bless ,.
<Hello Azam. Thanks for the kind words. It's difficult to say
what the matter might be here. There's no information. How big is
the aquarium? What is the water quality like? What is the water
chemistry? What is the temperature? What do you feed your fish?
Let's recap. Flowerhorn cichlids need a 280 litre/75 gallon
aquarium. The water temperature should be close to 25 C/77 F. Water
chemistry must be moderately hard to hard: 10-25 degrees dH, pH
7.5-8.0. Water quality must be excellent: 0 ammonia, 0
nitrite, and very critically, nitrate level must not be above 20 mg/l.
Diet should be mixed, including both green foods and meaty foods. So
while flake and pellets are fine, Flowerhorn cichlids must also have
cooked peas and spinach. Do not use "feeder fish". Be very,
VERY careful whenever using other types of live foods as some, like
Tubifex, can introduce serious diseases. If you have not done one or
all of the things on this list, then there's a good chance you are
making your Flowerhorn sick. Do read here:
My FH, reading 9/20/10
Could you please let me know if my FH has
dropsy? If so, please advise which medicine I
Thank you and regards,
<Not dropsical; read here:
but a bit "fat"... Read here:
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>Re:
My FH 9/20/10
Thank you so much, Bob. My worries are now gone.
I'm feeding my FH with SUMO 2x a day, do you think this is OK
or shall I reduce it 1x a day?
<Twice should be fine, better than once. But just smaller
Re: My FH 10/27/10
How are you?
<Fine, thank you>
I would like to check with you if there still a luck for me to
decrease a bit at least the bloated tummy of my lovable FH.
Thank you and regards,
<Mmm, don't understand what you mean... Have you reduced
the amount of foods? Tried Epsom salt? BobF>
Re: My FH 10/29/10
I used Epsom salt just yesterday and will continue monitoring
him. Is it OK
to feed him small amount during medication?
<And you. BobF>
Need urgent advise about my Flowerhorn... hlth., env.
Thank You in advance for any help / advise you can provide about my
ailing Flowerhorn. It has been about 20 days since my flower horn ate
food and it has been lying at the bed of the tank. I was out of town
before that and
hence the water was dirty by the time I could come back. I guess it is
suffering from some infection. I saw the FAQ section on your website
and tried a few things but it still looks sick and hardly moves
I have been changing water every other day since then and I have
ensured it is at half the normal tank capacity. I was advised to use
tetracycline (Resteclin 250mg). I also tried a TREATING REAGENT FOR
INTERNAL PARASITE and 3rd Generation Yellow Powder for external
infections but none of these are working. The size of my tank is about
2.5 ft by 2 ft. Tank capacity when full is about 75 liters. I have a
filter which is also clean and a heater which is on 24 hours and is set
at 28 Celsius. Would be happy to provide more details and pictures.
Kindly advise at the earliest.
<Hello Supreeth. The simple answer is this: your aquarium is too
small, and your Flowerhorn is dying because of poor environmental
conditions. Medication is not going to help until you fix the living
conditions. Start by reading here:
For a single adult Flowerhorn cichlid you will need at least 250
litres/66 US gallons. A juvenile might be kept in a marginally smaller
tank, perhaps 180 litres/50 US gallons until it is about 10-12 cm long.
You also need a very robust filtration system; I would recommend a
large external canister filter such as an Eheim 2217 (1000 litres/hour
turnover) or equivalent.
Water chemistry must be hard and alkaline; aim for 10-20 degrees dH, pH
7.5-8.0. Water quality must be good: 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, less than 20
mg/l nitrate. Water temperature around 25 C/77 F. Unless you can
all of these things, your Flowerhorn will die. An aquarium that
contains 75 l/20 US gallons is best used for small community fish:
Neons, Danios, Corydoras, etc.
They may not be "auspicious" or "lucky" but at
least they'll stay alive.
Flowerhorn Questions, dis, breeding/sexing... -- 7/12/10
Hi, I have to say I've been reading your articles and found it very
I have a couple of question
1) My flower longhorn recently attracted some type of infection, and
have got some of capsule from the aquarium to treat it. I have to take
him out every two days to treat him for 4 hrs. He now looks a lot
better but have a split open wound across his forehead which before
antibiotics had white fluffy stuff showing. It doesn't have the
fluffy stuff now but a wide hole, will that heal back together?
< The white fluffy material was a fungus that is now gone. The wound
will probably heal but there probably will be a scar.>
2)will my longhorns breed in a 125 gallon tank with 5 bloody parrots
and a Arowana?
< When they decide to breed they will probably have no problem
chasing the other fish away?>
3) I have what I thought was a male and female but recently saw the
smaller one developing a hump and top and bottom fins to be longer then
his middle fins, can it most likely that it is actually a male not a
< Longer fins are usually sexual characteristics of a
Help Regarding infection - Flowerhorn
Flowerhorn With Internal Infection 6/24/10
Hello ,Greeting from Mohan, Bangalore.
I have a Flowerhorn which is sick from past few days. I had fed
him with live feed and after few days it started getting white
patches on black middle part. We treated him with tetracycline
and raw salt as advised by the pet store owner. The patches have
been cured but now it developed what I think is intestinal
infection (intestine protruding from anal part) . its stopped
I am keeping the temp as 29C and currently changing 30 % water
every alternate day. I have also kept a air filter running the
< Unfortunately, when antibiotics are used to cure the
bacteria on the outside of the fish, they effect the internal
good bacteria that break down the fish food in the gut. When this
happens sometimes bad bacteria and other pathogens get a foot
hold in the gut. This causes intestinal blockages. The bacteria
break down the food in the gut and cause gas/bloating and fluid
retention. Treat with a combination of Metronidazole and
Nitrofuranace. These medications are available online at
Re: Help Regarding infection - Flowerhorn
Thank you for the response & I have already treated with
Flagyl and Nitrofuranace after getting the information from your
web but it is not working.
Kindly suggest me , I need help.
<Flagyl and Nitrofuranace WILL work, but only if [a] the fish
is not already dying; and [b] the environmental conditions are
appropriate. Let's recap. For a Flowerhorn cichlid you need
280 litres/75 US gallons and a
filter rated at NOT LESS than 8 times the volume of the aquarium
per hour (i.e., for a 75 gallon tank, an 8 x 75 = 600
gallons/hour filter). Water quality MUST be excellent: 0 ammonia,
0 nitrite, and nitrate levels less than 20 mg/l. Water chemistry
MUST be hard and basic: 10+ degrees dH, pH 7.5-8.0. Temperature
should be middling, 24-26 C/75-79 F. All water added to the
aquarium should be treated for chlorine, and if appropriate where
you live, ammonia, Chloramine and copper as well. Without
information on your aquarium, water chemistry and water quality,
we cannot say anything else about why your fish is sick. But be
assured, 99 times out of 100, sick fish are sick because of their
environment. Cheers, Neale.>
Sickly Flowerhorn, no useful data 6/23/10
I've been searching the Internet to find a cure for my Flowerhorn
fish. I have my fish for two years and nothing ever happen to him.
Recently we move our 40gl tank to the front living room and using the
water holes in the front of the house. He got sick. First he swim side
ways and then upside down. Next he stay at the bottom of the tank. And
now he is flowing upside down close to the surface of the water. He
also have a bowed belly. He doesn't eat for about 3 weeks
We try to feed him peas but no luck. He would not eat anything else. He
is energetic. Lately his poop is yellow and it come out way small then
<Possibly Hexamita. Usually caused by poor environmental conditions.
Do read here:
For this species, you need 75 gallon aquarium. The water must be hard
and basic; aim for pH 7.5-8, 10-25 degrees dH. The temperature should
be middling, around 25 C/77 F. Water quality must be excellent; 0
ammonia, 0 nitrite, and nitrate level less than 20 mg/l. Hexamita
infections are very, VERY common when cichlids are kept poorly. The
only cure is Metronidazole, administered via their food (not added to
the water), as stated here:
Virtually nothing else works.>
I don't know what to do for him. Can you help me please? Reply to
this email. Thank you.
<Hope this helps. Cheers, Neale.>
Broken spine in dorsal fin 6/16/10
This morning I was doing a 30% water change in my aquarium for
which I had to net out my fish for a while, however when I was
netting it out it suddenly jumped out of the net and fell on the
ground and one of its spine
in dorsal fin broke, and now its not looking good on him, my
question is if the spine will regrow????
I have attached a pic of my FH for you to see and understand the
<Hello. Yes, given good conditions this fin damage should
heal. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Broken spine in dorsal fin 6/16/10
thanks for replying, sorry to bother you again, m sorry if my
question is stupid, I wanted to know if the spine will regrow,
and you have replied as 'it will heal', so should I
understand that it will regrow because spine is a hard bone which
is broken and wanted to know if that will ever regrow?
<As I said, it'll heal. But I can't say for sure
whether the spine will regrow. It should do, but like any bone
regrowth, it might not be 100% perfect. Cheers, Neale.>
Superficially Damaged Flowerhorn Hump
Damaged Flowerhorn -- 06/9/10
Dear WetWebMedia Team, My lovely, masterpiece (or very close) 9"
Flowerhorn just damaged his quite large hump (possibly on a powerhead
filter). The damaged area is right near the top and about a half cm in
diameter total, though only 1/3 cm is actually open and pink (but not
very deep). There is some damaged tissue still hanging around the edge,
which has blackened or bruised. Otherwise he is acting, eating and
swimming robustly as usual.
What is the best way to heal this wound and do you think it will leave
a permanent mark? This would be shame as otherwise he's stunning.
Also, will the damaged tissue (about .3 cm in length) on the edge just
go away or will it need to be trimmed? Unfortunately to my knowledge we
have no fish doctors around here and I don't feel confident to do
any such trimming myself with this wild guy. Water quality in his 55
gallon tank is very good, with 50% changes every 10-12 days and all
well within normal parameters (though a bit on the warmer side, avg. 30
degree C, as with my other 2 tanks, because I'm in balmy Phuket,
Thailand but they're all pretty used to it). Sole tank make is a 5
inch Pleco. How about adding Malachite Green F? Or should I just do
nothing and keep water
clean? I know it's difficult for you to tell without a pic (my
camera got sand in it and needs some help itself) but any advice would
be very appreciated. Kind Regards, Barrett
<The biggest concern would be infection. Keep the water clean and
watch for redness or fungus. The dangling tissue should be removed to
leave a clean wound. If infection starts to show up then treat with
Nitrofuranace. It is
effective against bacteria and fungus. It will probably leave a scar
that will heal but may leave an imperfection.-Chuck>
Re: Superficially Damaged Flowerhorn Hump
Herbal Wound Treatment 6/15/10
Hi Chuck, Thanks for your fast reply and sorry for my delayed
Actually what I did was put 3 'herbal sacks' into his tank and
by the very next day the wound was already mostly healed and is now
I have no idea what's in these sacks --they're obviously
locally produced as they come in a small plastic bag with only a
photo-copied little piece of paper that in Thai and English says:
"Enhancing Herbs for Fighting Fish"
-- Helps rid lice, heals bodily wounds and cures eye diseases.
-- Enriches fighting fishes natural color and strengthens scales.
Of course Siamese fighting fish are cichlids
< No, they are not.>
so upon the recommendation of one of these fish shops I usually put in
1 or 2 of these little sacks once in a while in all 3 tanks
(Africans/Blue Texas Cichlid/Flowerhorn) but for the Flowerhorn this
time I put in 3 sacks at the same time, and the water got a brownish or
tea color to it within a couple of hours. By the next day his wound
miraculously was about 90% healed, and then by the 2nd day almost
completely. The coloring in the water was pretty much gone by the 3rd
day (I didn't take out the bag of charcoal buried at the bottom of
my internal trickle down filter), then I did about 50% water change on
the 4th day.
I really wish I knew what was in these herbal sacks (I kind of suspect
tea tree leaves mixed with something else, given the water color, but
not sure because from what I understand tea tree oil is good for
fungal/bacterial infections, not so much for wounds, which this surely
was). Anyway, whatever is in them really did a good job (and by the
next day all the dead tissue was pretty much gone too; now there is
only a very tiny black spot on his head which I'm pretty confident
will go away or be covered with new skin, esp. as his Nuchal hump is
growing so fast).
So thanks again for your input Chuck, I've read many of your other
posts and it's comforting to know that there are people like
yourself out there to help fish lovers in need! Kind Regards,
<Many herbal treatments acidify the water and inhibit bacterial
Glad to hear everything turned out all right.-Chuck>
A little question pls.. FH dis. f' 6/2/10
hi WWM crew, I would like to ask how long does a Flowerhorn tail
(I mean the tail was split into two due to the females aggression)
<Depends on the water quality. If the water quality is good, then
the tail fin should heal within a few months. But if the water quality
is poor, or the caudal peduncle is damaged, not just the fin membrane,
then the fin may not heal properly.>
and another thing, he was also bitten on his XXXX and some part of his
body but only bite wounds, would it leave a scar or will return to its
<Again, depends on water quality.>
I'm worried a bit. T_T
Re: a little question pls.. 6/2/10
oh ok..at least I know it would heals..I thought it was hopeless..
thank you very much!
<My pleasure. Cheers, Neale.>
Flowerhorn with head pointing down
Flowerhorn With Internal Infection 5/23/10
Hi, My 8-year-old Flowerhorn suddenly becomes sick the last 2 days. He
doesn't eat anymore. He constantly stays still in the same place
with his head pointing down, his tail pointing up, even at night when
he is supposed to rest at the bottom of the tank. I do notice some
minor swelling on his stomach. I searched your website and it seemed to
suggest that he could have a bacteria infection in his intestine. You
suggested cleaning the tank (50%?) and treat with a combination of
Metronidazole and Nitrofuranace. You also mentioned to make sure the
Flowerhorn does have the infection before treating, or you can kill the
fish. How do I know for sure? Thank you in advance for your answer. I
hope I can help the fish because I had him since he was a little baby.
< If you have checked the water quality and everything else has
remained constant then it is time to treat.-Chuck>
my baby is very poorly, this is my last chance --
Hi WetWebMedia crew!!! I've attach pictures of before and
what it looks like at this moment.
I have a 11" Flowerhorn. When I got him, all was fine,
eating well and feeding out off my hands, chasing other fishes,
you name it he did it. One day I've notice he didn't want
to know but I didn't think nothing of it until I've
notice his lips started to get bigger. At this point I started to
panic as my other fh had died of duck lips. I went to my local
aquatic store and they told me to use jbl spirohexol with salt,
so got back home, moved him to 1oo litres tank,30% water change
,temps down to 75-76. My local aquatic store tested the water and
all is good and added jbl spirohexol and salt. It is now day 6
and not any better, in the 6 days I've done a 30% water
change 3 time now and each time I done a water change, I've
added the jbl spirohexol and salt. Until this day there is no
and now I've notice he is starting to get cotton patches like
soggy white bread on each side of his face and also just in his
lips. I have spoke to 3 local aquatic stores about buying
Metronidazole and they all haven't heard this make before. I
am now so need your help as I do not want to lose him,. Please
advice me on what to do. I look forward to hearing from you.
<I have heard about this problem in a few large public
aquariums and with other aquarists that keep large central
American cichlids. It may actually be a virus that is untreatable
and often fatal. I would try a combination of Metronidazole and
Nitrofuranace in case this disease is something else. These
medications can be bought online at
very sick Flowerhorn 2/25/10
We have a 120 gallon tank and we have an 11 inch male red devil and 4
<Hope you know how big Ictalurus catfish get! This tank isn't
nearly big enough for them. Indeed, they're pond fish rather than
We just got a 7 inch female Flowerhorn 1 month ago.
<While the Central American cichlid/North American catfish combo can
work -- I've done it myself -- you do need to be extremely careful.
The catfish are far bigger (eventually) and much more predatory than
the cichlids, and even a big cichlid can end up being bullied or simply
Everybody gets along fine, very peaceful tank.
They mated right away and she laid eggs for about 36 hours. She ate
most of them.
<Yes. Not uncommon.>
1 day later we noticed these small white skinny things attached to our
glass, very tiny wormlike. We treated the tank for parasites and
changed 1/3 of the water and treated again. The wormlike things are
still on the glass.
<Likely free-living nematodes or planarians. In themselves harmless,
and only likely to be killed with anti-Helminth medications. But they
do indicate a substrate that contains a lot of organic matter, which in
turn implies a dirty aquarium with overfeeding, not enough mechanical
filtration, and infrequent water changes. In short, they're the
aquarium equivalent of cockroaches.>
A couple of her eggs on the rock are fuzzy.
2 days after she gave birth, she devoured 2 meal worms and 1 small red
worm. It is now 5 days after she gave birth and she lost all her color
and is laying on the bottom barely breathing.
<Unlikely anything to do with the worms.>
All the other fish are fine and are not attacking her. Why is she
dying, is she constipated or is this from giving birth
<Unlikely to be either of these.>
or is it those small wormlike things attached to our glass and
<No, not this either.>
What are those things and how can I get rid of them.
<Better filter, cleaner substrate, more water changes, less food
dumped in the tank. Just like 'roaches in a home, the issue
isn't killing them, but creating conditions that doesn't
attract them. Even if you magically killed 99.9% of them tonight, the
population would grow right back again, if the aquarium remained as it
is now. Just like 'roaches.>
Water temp is 80 and ph level is 7.5. There are no marks or parasites
on her , she is just a pale gray and lifeless.
<Test the water quality. Look for signs of bullying and
We bought this tank 2 months ago from a person who used it as a
saltwater tank but then he got a parasite that killed everything.
<He didn't have anything of the kind. That's a silly way of
saying he didn't look after his fish, they all died, and rather
than accept he did something wrong, he's going to blame Mother
Nature. Gimme a break!>
The tank sat empty for a year and then was cleaned out. Could this be
the same parasite,
but then why are my other fish doing so well?
<If a social issue, likely because one or other fish is bullying or
harassing her, perhaps by night in the case of Ictalurus spp. I cannot
stress too strongly how predatory these fish. Moreover, adult male
cichlids can be, will be, extremely aggressive towards unresponsive
females, especially when cooped up in a small aquarium like
Why is it just the Flowerhorn and we need to get rid of those wormlike
Help my Flowerhorn is sick....
Sick Flowerhorn With Internal Infection 1/11/10
Good day to everyone. We have a very sick Flowerhorn. We really
don't know what is happening. This thing started several weeks ago
but I can't give you the exact date. At first we noticed that the
Flowerhorn is no longer eating and stays in the bottom corner of the
tank. Later on, the fish started to produce, I'm not pretty sure
what you call it, but its like a white mucus..(a white circle cotton
like) that its coming out on the fish stomach. There are times the fish
is covered with white thing that looks like a web. Her color starts to
fade as well. At times the fish looks so dark. There was also a time
that the fish floats, as if it was dead, but its not. Please help us,
< Your Flowerhorn has an internal infection caused by stress. It
could be poor water quality, poor diet, or something else. Check the
Ammonia and nitrates should be zero. The nitrates should be under 20
Treat with a combination of Nitrofuranace and
Flowerhorn with fin problems 12/17/09
I have a male Flowerhorn 5 inches in 20 gallon tank a small home I
guess but will upgrade it to large tank soon.
<Yes, it would be a good thing. These big Cichlids are high
I have a power filter and a sponge filter installed. A Thermostat.
Water parameters are nearly normal to the prescribed limit by you.
<I'd like to know these numbers. What about them is
"nearly" normal? What temperature is the tank?>
I do 30 percent water changes twice a week.
<A good maintenance schedule for this fish in the tank size he's
in, but the numbers on Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate are going to give
me a better "picture" here.
Recently I have seen some tips of my fish fins have become white. What
is the name of the disease and could you suggest the treatment for the
<Well, I'd hesitate to suggest anything right now. There's
really not enough information to go on. Please provide those
parameters, as well as the tank temperature. Is there a chance you can
take a photo? Are the fins split or jagged at all? Is he acting
normally? There are some "diseases" that cause fin erosion,
but they are things like Finrot, which is usually caused by poor water
quality or some other environmental stressor. What foods are you
feeding? So, answering those questions above is going to get us further
toward figuring out what's going on. Have you
taken the time to read what is archived on WWM about Flowerhorns?
Bloated Flowerhorn 12/16/2009
We have a 2 year old Flowerhorn around 10inches in length and looks to
have a bloated stomach just behind his gills.
<What are your Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate levels?>
We feed him Spectrum pellets for the most part
<Are you mixing this with any greens or wet-frozen foods? Dry
pellets lead to constipation when fed exclusively.>
and about a month ago he stopped eating to we introduced a few feeder
fish to his tank, I see now that feeders aren't the best things for
<Yes. Hopefully you quarantined these fish to avoid the introduction
of a parasite as much as possible. Besides, as you can already see,
there were several other things to check out before feeding feeders,
such as water quality and diet.>
but after he ate the feeders over several days he started to eat his
pellets again. It looks like he is uncomfortable and stays on top of
the tank in one corner which is unusual for him as he has always been
We have tried some canned peas but he doesn't seem interested in
them at all this is about day 3
<Do you mean day 3 since he ate the feeders? And before that he
didn't eat for a month? I just want to get a good idea of how long
this has been going on.>
we have also noticed he keeps picking up gravel and holding it in his
mouth are they like some birds and this helps their digestive
<Nah, he shouldn't be eating gravel. If he has swallowed any,
though, this could be what's wrong, but I'd check on these
other things first.>
Please let us know what we can do to help him as he is an awesome
<The first thing to do is test water quality. You don't mention
how often you do maintenance on this tank, but the tests are going to
reveal if you're doing it often enough. If you'd like to write
back with those numbers, feel free. If he is bloated, the first thing I
would try is Epsom Salt in the amount of one tablespoon per ten
gallons. You can dissolve it in a cup of warm water, let everything
cool to room temperature, and then add your dechlorinator to the cup,
and add to the tank. You'd dose enough for half the tank's
volume the first day, and half the second day.
However, please test water first. I'm going to include a link to
our archived information on Flowerhorns. You'll see that there are
a lot of other foods he could be eating along with the pellets to
maintain healthy digestion.
Clicking those links above the article's title will lead you to
information on feeding and other aspects of care. Please write back if
you have any questions after reading that information. There are a
couple of things that could be going on here, and the introduction of
the feeders doesn't help matters at all, but I think testing water
and then, if all is well
(Ammonia and Nitrite zero, Nitrate under 20) then the Epsom Salt
treatment is the first thing to do.>
Re: Bloated Flowerhorn -- 12/16/09
First of all thanks for replying so quick, <No problem!>
and I'm sorry I wasn't clearer on the time frames of
<Thanks for writing back to clarify.>
He wasn't eating a month ago and that is when we introduced the
feeders and then he was feeding well again until 3 days ago.
<Okay. I've got it now. So this problem seems relatively new,
but may be a continuation of what was going on before, when he stopped
We keep him in a 30 gallon tank and try to change the water every week
this is an aquarium kept in our office at work so some times it is hit
and miss on changing the water.
<This is a small tank for an adult Flowerhorn, Fred. Skipping water
changes isn't doing him any favors.>
We do check the Ammonia levels and such and that isn't the problem
at this time.
<It's not that I don't believe you... it's just that
numbers are a lot more helpful. See, the numbers are completely
objective data -- that way, they can be interpreted by me, who is
trying to help you. The information you're giving me re: water
quality is subjective -- your interpretation of the water quality.
Obviously, we may have the exact same interpretation of a set of data,
but we might not! That's why I love to get numbers. Then my brain
gets some exercise.>
He is also a darker shade of red the last few days.
<Yes, this is indicative of stress. Could be just as a result of
having to go!>
It really looks like he just has to go if you know what I mean.
We will try the Epsom salts like you suggest and let you know how it
<Okay. Again, test that water. The small tank and lack of really
consistent attention make me think "Nitrate! Nitrate!
Nitrate!" It could be totally fine, but I can't help but
wonder if something is amiss with that water quality. The Epsom Salt
will hopefully work wonders on his problem, but only if everything else
is ideal, as well. Again, be mindful of what you're feeding -- if
it's only a dry pellet, mix in some wet-frozen foods or veggies, as
well. There are some good feeding suggestions under "Flowerhorn
Feeding" in that link I sent you.>
Pls find what disease my baby short-body FH has; I think it
is fin rot -- 12/08/09
1 week ago, I have bought 2 inch short-body male FH. he has black like
thing on fore head, fin and tail. I asked fish shop owner what was the
black things over the body. he said it just a color. after few days the
black color was fading but a day before yesterday, I saw my FH has
black spot on gill and middle of his body.
<Your Flowerhorn will change color as he ages, but your observance
that the "color" has come and gone, and is now in different
places, means this isn't normal coloration.>
and the tail has become white at edges and is dissolving and also split
into two. sometimes he rub his body over stone.
my friend said he has fin rot disease,
<This could absolutely be the case. Also, the rubbing over the stone
(this is called "flashing") is most likely as a result of the
same causes as the Finrot -- the poor water quality that's present
in the tank.>
so I have done 50% water change and
added anti-fungus medicine and salt. raised the tank temperature to 28
<The water change is doing the most good for him here. The
anti-fungal is a good idea in theory, but he most likely would have
fought off this infection on his own if he had been completely healthy.
There is a possibility he was having problems before you got him, but
putting him in an uncycled tank has multiplied those problems. The heat
and salt aren't going to do much here, and could even stress him
out more. I'd stop with the salt -- it's not an effective
treatment for fungus.>
he hide at corner all the time except during meal time. Could anyone
tell me what disease my FH has.
<It does sound like he has Finrot, but without a photo, it's
hard to be sure. He's also suffering from ammonia burn, which is
what's causing him to flash against the rocks. There are likely a
lot of other things going on as well, and all of them come down to your
having placed him in an uncycled system. That's what this all comes
down to -- placing fish into an uncycled system will produce varying
symptoms in fish, but all of them can be fixed by fixing the
what should I do to cure him.
<Fix water quality. Buy some test kits for Ammonia, Nitrite, and
Nitrate, and wait for the cycle to complete. You'll need to do
large, frequent water changes in order to insure that toxic Ammonia and
Nitrite are kept as low as possible. Do you run any other aquariums?
Borrowing some "seeded" media -- media that contains the
nitrifying bacteria necessary for the cycle to occur -- will help speed
the process in the Flowerhorn's tank. If you don't have any,
you could ask a friend to borrow some.>
click the link for photos of my FH
<This takes me to the album site, but there is no photo on the
he is in 30 gallon tank with power filter. the current in the tank is
the tank is in cycling process.
<This is your problem, Push. As stated above, get your hands on some
test kits and start testing. Do those large, frequent water changes.
Try to get a hold of some cycled media and place it in your filter.
He's just not going to heal, no matter what you put in the tank,
until water quality is pristine. I'd avoid putting anything else in
the tank until you've got water quality under control, because
adding various things is only going to stress him out more.
Here is a link that I think will be of help to you:
Please write back if you have any questions.
Thanks in advance
Male Cichlid Beating On Female Cichlid, FHs
Hello, can you please help me. my female Flowerhorn was attacked by my
male Flowerhorn. so I removed the female Flowerhorn from the tank. now
she is badly injured and can hardly move around. Do you know if there
is anything I can do, to help nurse my female Flowerhorn back to
health. Thank You.
< Usually the female is smaller than the male. Experienced cichlid
keepers place a piece of plastic pipe that is only big enough to allow
the female in and not the male. This gives the female a place to escape
from a eager
male looking to breed. In the wild the male is looking for a female
willing to spawn with him. He chases or kills the unwilling females and
tries to attract another that will. If the pipe is not too attractive
then others have been using ZooMed Aquarium Logs too. These have the
additional advantage in that they float and allow the female a chance
to get to food more easily. Now that the female is damaged you need to
carefully nurse her back to health. Luckily cichlids are pretty hardy
creatures and things may not seem as bad as they first appear. First
keep the water very clean. High nitrogenous waste levels will lead to
diseases that will kill if going untreated. Do lots of water changes
and keep up on the filter cleaning.
Treat with an antibiotic called Nitrofuranace. It will work against
disease causing bacteria and fungi. Add a little salt to the water.
This will put a slime on the fish to keep parasites off. Look at some
of the water conditioners that have some sort of wound control. Use
these when changing water. When your fish acts hungry then go ahead and
feed her. Good luck.-Chuck>
Flowerhorn Doesn't Eat 11/20/09
Hello, I have a 72 gallon bow front with a 10 inch FH and a common
I have had the FH for about 4 months now. Up until about a week or 2
ago I noticed that he had not wanted to eat as much and now not at all.
I have 2 under gravel filters and a magnum 350 filter also, plenty of
oxygen (2-4 inch air stones, 1 large Volcano (air pump) I clean the
tank once per week (15% of the water) The water tests good, my water is
very hard. I have added aquarium salt to the water, and vitamins to
make sure he is getting nutrition. My Pleco eats like a pig (he loves
his zucchini, broccoli, cauliflower and algae wafers.) I noticed when I
went home last night that my FH has a raised bump on his head (under
the skin above the bridge of his nose on his kok) Otherwise he looks
good, but that did concern me and the fact that he is not eating.
Sometimes he hovers at the bottom of the tank or in the corner by a
otherwise looks at the top of the tank for food. I feed him PE mysis
and he will not eat it now, he is a finicky eater, so this is what I
fed him. I offer him food and he looks at it and lets it go to the
doesn't bother with it. He usual gets excited when he sees me and
comes to the top and I rub his head, but its getting to where he
isn't doing this as much and I haven't seen him rearrange his
tank in a few days.
Any advice or suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thank you,
<One of two things is going on here. The first, your fish has been
imprinted on a certain food type and will not try anything else. Do not
offer food for three days. He should be pretty hungry by then. Offer a
quality food and leave it in the tank for five minutes, then remove any
uneaten food. Try this every day for a week. If he still does not eat
then there may be an internal infection. Treat with a combination of
Metronidazole and Nitrofuranace.-Chuck>
Re: Flowerhorn Cichlid
Finding Medications Online 11/21/09
Chuck, Thank you for your help. Do you know which website sells
I am having trouble finding it locally or on-line. Dee
< Most fish stores carry the medication. If you are having trouble I
know DrFoster&Smith carry it for sure.-Chuck>
Re: I am worried. (Flowerhorn, do real data) 11/16/09
Flowerhorn Won't Eat
Hi I need a small help
for the past one week my Flowerhorn is not having any food, the waste
is in white colour like a thread & its standing at the bottom of
the tank and it is 50% active.
I tried with cooked peas, chicken liver/hear & humpy head both
everything turned out to be waste, it didn't have any thing.
Can you please help me, he is tired and even the head and body is
becoming thin day by day.
< Sounds like an internal infection. Do a 50% water change and treat
with a combination of Nitrofuranace and Metronidazole. Medicate as per
the directions on the package. This is usually caused by stress, poor
diet or poor water quality.-Chuck>
Re: I am worried. (Flowerhorn, do real data)
Flowerhorn With Internal Infection -- 11/17/2009
Hi I did a water change yesterday.
Can you suggest a capsule with combination of Nitrofuranace and
< Sorry, No combination exists. You will have to buy them separately
and combine them yourself. They can be purchased online.-Chuck>
Re: I am worried. (Flowerhorn, do real data)... still
My flower horn is not taking food for the past 15 days
<!? Very bad>
and it is standing in the corner of the tank.
I tried with peas, humpy head, shrimp, green leaves, chicken leaver it
not taking any thing.
Can you please guide me & the waste is in white colour like a
thread, what should I do?
Please advice me ..waiting for you
<... Something is wrong... likely with the environment. Please read
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
Re: I am worried. (Flowerhorn, do real data)... what gives?
I know something is wrong.
to my surprise I saw some worms(tiny worms) in the water, I cleaned the
tank 3 days back,
so again I drained the water fully and filled up with new water and I
left my FN inside.
What to do now. should I give him some medicine.
<Jerome, the problem is that you aren't giving us any
information. We are not mind readers! How big is the aquarium? What is
the water chemistry? (In other words: what is the hardness and what is
the pH?) What is the water temperature? What is the water quality like?
(Nitrite? Ammonia? Nitrate?)
What do you feed the fish? Have you ever used live feeder fish? What
sort of filter do you use? All this information is necessary to make a
diagnosis. To start with, read here:
Anything that DOESN'T match what is listed there can be assumed a
VERY LIKELY reason your Flowerhorn is sick. Most Flowerhorn cichlids
get sick because [a] they are kept in tanks too small; [b] the
filtration system is inadequate; [c] the water chemistry and
temperature are wrong; and [d] the diet was wrong. The black worms are
likely nothing to do with why the fish is sick. Most "worms"
in fish tanks are planarians and nematodes that feed on organic matter.
Usually, this means the tank is dirty. So they're a
symptom of poor aquarium maintenance rather than the cause of
White spots on Flowerhorn side fins -- 11/1/09
I have a Flowerhorn 3 inches long. He is in 20 gallon tank with
powerfilter, sponge filter .
<A short term home, at best. This fish will grow rapidly, and needs
a much bigger tank. You will certainly need at least 55 gallons, and
realistically 75 gallons, within the next six months. If you don't
provide a big enough tank, like all cichlids, he will be prone to
infections (e.g., Hexamita).>
I do 25 percent water changes twice a week. Yesterday I fed him with
live blood worms. I washed the bloodworms when I bring them but since
yesterday after feeding him I saw some white spots on his side fins. He
is eating the food properly. kindly suggest me some treatment to get
rid of the white spots.
<Question: are these white spots that look like salt grains, or
cloudy specks where the fin membrane has become discoloured? If the
former, Whitespot/Ick is the issue, and this is most safely treated
combination of aquarium salt and heat. Add 2 to 3 teaspoons of salt per
US gallon for at least 7 days with the temperature raised to 82-86 F.
You can also use proprietary Ick medication, though these are somewhat
toxic, so you need to watch your fish carefully while using them. If
the white spots are discoloured patches on the fin membranes, then
that's more likely incipient Finrot, a very common disease when
fish are kept under poor conditions. Various commercial medications
available, but all assume you're
going to improve environmental conditions as well. Do see here:
I have put aquarium salt in my tank today (Pl suggest me the quantity
of salt to put for 20 gallon tank).
<Salt should not be added to the aquarium except for treating
specific diseases. If you have Whitespot/Ick, then use the dose
Otherwise, don't use salt at all. Does little good, and may do some
Also suggest me some other remedy as it is worrying me a lot. I really
luv my spotty very much.
<Best remedy? Reading. Find out what these fish need, and then act
accordingly. Better to prevent problems than cure them.
White spots on Flowerhorn side fins 11/3/09
<Hello again, Amit,>
Thanks for the prompt reply..
<Happy to help.>
I am following the treatment pattern as suggested by you. The fish is
<Good. I take it you decided this was Ick/Whitespot (which salt
helps) as opposed to Finrot (which salt doesn't help).>
Meanwhile I wanted to ask you should I step down his diet for the next
7 days and am I advised to make 25 percent water change everyday while
<I wouldn't "step down" feeding, but I *would* check
you aren't overfeeding, and that the food you're offering is
nutritious. For many cichlids, regular offerings of green foods are
beneficial, and cooked or
tinned peas are ideal. So try offering some of these. There's also
a good argument for not feeding on one day each week (rather good for
humans too, but most of us don't have the will power!). It is too
easy to overfeed fish. Because they do not have efficient digestive
systems, most of the excess food goes straight out of their bodies. So
by cutting back the food, you won't slow down their growth. Simply
offer a sensible amount of food. One or two meals per day, and not so
much anything is left after one minute. The fish should not look fat;
it should simply have a slightly rounded (convex) belly, but
mustn't look swollen or as if it has eaten too much.>
Awaiting ur reply eagerly
Thanks in advance
Pls tell me the treatment for my Flowerhorn
Hi, Crew I am in a great problem with my Flowerhorn
It is not taking any food the color become faded and it is sitting at
the basement of aquarium for 2days
<Probably means an ENVIRONMENTAL problem. Review water chemistry,
and water quality, and water temperature. Just to be clear, you need 0
ammonia, 0 nitrite, nitrate less than 20 mg/l, a pH around 7.5 to 8,
and a hardness level of 10 degrees dH upwards. The water temperature
should be around 25 C/77 F.>
at first I thought that it might be a problem of water I have changed
about 80% of water yesterday but no improvement have seen the color
become more fade and it looks like a dead fish
<Perhaps it is dead?>
today I give POTASIAM PERMANGANET(KMNO4) which I use for treatment of
<Yikes! Very dangerous this stuff. Do not use.>
Can it works?
Now what can I do I cant understand I don't want to lose my butiful
Flowerhorn Pls help me Crew as soon as possible
<There is no information here. I must have data! Tell me:
[a] Size of the aquarium;
[b] Type of filter used, and preferably, it's turnover rate
(that's gallons per hour, or litres per hour, as stated on the
[c] Water chemistry, at minimum the pH, and preferably the general
hardness and/or carbonate hardness;
[d] Water quality, at minimum the nitrite level, but the ammonia and/or
nitrate levels are useful too.
Without this information, we cannot say anything useful. In most cases,
cichlids go off their food because people keep them in tanks that are
too small, don't provide adequate filtration, don't do enough
water changes, or don't provide them with a suitably balanced diet.
Other causes of "mystery sickness" are things like using
feeder fish (NEVER use these) and exposure to paint fumes, insecticides
and other poisons. Cheers, Neale.>
FH... hlth... Fed "feeder fish"...
I am iqbal from India I have a FH of short body of 8 month from 3 days
he is not having any food period it was on feeding fish that is gold
fish and red cap and humpy head but today morning my FH is not able to
swimming any is lying down in tank so pls help me regards
<Hello Iqbal. I need information here. How big is the aquarium? What
sort of filter do you use? What is the water chemistry? At minimum,
tell me the pH. What is the water quality like? At minimum, I need the
nitrite level. Usually, when Flowerhorn cichlids stop eating, it's
because they are stressed by their environment. A Flowerhorn cichlid
needs a tank 55 gallons (about 210 litres) in size, and the tank needs
a big filter, ideally rated at a turnover 6 times the volume of the
tank or more, i.e., at least 6 x 55 = 330 gallons per hour for a 55
gallon tank. The pH should be 7 to 8, the hardness 10 degrees dH or
more, and temperature about 25 degrees C. There should be 0 ammonia and
0 nitrite. Nitrate level should be low, certainly less than 50 mg/l and
preferably less than 20 mg/l. So check all these things. Secondly, DO
NOT USE FEEDER FISH! Any fish cheap enough to use as food will not have
been cared for properly. Feeder fish are "parasite time
bombs" and the most stupid thing any aquarist can do is use them
to feed a valuable fish. Furthermore, Goldfish (and other cyprinids,
including minnows) contain lots of fat and a substance called
thiaminase. Thiaminase breaks down Vitamin B1, and over the long term
makes fish very very sick.
Fat also causes problems, and the use of fatty foods is a major cause
of mortality among carnivorous fish. Your Flowerhorn is a hybrid bred
from cichlids that ate invertebrates, organic detritus, and plant
Offer it a varied diet of things like chopped seafood, insect larvae,
cooked peas, algae, and so on. Don't feed it if it is not hungry!
Healthy cichlids are ALWAYS hungry, so if a cichlid isn't eating,
it means something is WRONG. So go back and check your aquarium.
PLS HELP - Something wrong with my Flowerhorn - Unable to
diagnose. Env. -- 09/08/09
Something definitely wrong with my Flowerhorn... I will try to be as
descriptive as possible..I have not given any pictures in this post..
because picture in this case will not tell you anything...
Tank - 48 X 18 X 18
<In inches I'll take it, not cm.>
Filter - Canister 1200 L/H
Air Curtain for aeration...
Small pebbles in the ground, not as a substrate but more of him to play
<At times gravel is useful to necessary to foster biological
A bog wood - on which the air curtain is tied around
Sunday (August 30th 2009) - Performed a major cleaning of his tank.
Cleaned glass, he had quite few number of pebbles as gravel to play
with, had to remove some of them, because they were very dirty..
Cleaned the canister medium only partially... changed water over
<Mmm, I would usually keep such changes to 25-20% maximum>
Wednesday (2nd September) - Got hold of a brand new packet of Ching Mix
Sp100 (from US) - Started feeding him in small quantities morning and
Thursday (3rd September) - Noticed an unusual thing in the evening.. FH
has passed poo usual in color, but the poo was floating on top of the
surface instead of settling down..
<Can be just the food>
Friday (4th September ) -
Morning - Changed water 20%.. added salt..
<... why? What sort of salt/s? Unless added to raise dKH or such,
not necessary or advised with Neotropical Cichlids>
usual appetite for him and usual aggression.. he had his feeding (Ching
Evening - Went home to see him lying on corner of the tank.. color
darkened.. The whole tank is spread with this Poo.. very unusual for a
FH poo.. not continuous, but small granule like structure, black in
color spread all across the tank floor...
Performed water change once again, cleaned the mess and added salt....
felt that he also had trouble in swimming... (is that a swim
Saturday (5th Sep) -
Morning - Color improved... no signs of stress, but most of the time
resting down...when swimming, swimming is normal.. tried showing him
his food packet.. he became excited for feeding.. did not fed him
though - Diagnosis, may be minor constipation... Stomach slightly
bloated..Thought I should be stopping Ching Mix...
Evening - Situation remained same.. Throughout this day, he did not
passed any poo...
On account of heavy rainfall where I live...temperature of the tank was
showing 27.4 degrees, Changed water 20%, added heater, salt, had set
the temp to 30 degrees.. Did not fed him for the whole day...
Sunday (6th Sep) -
Morning - Still no sign of improvement.. most of the time resting
below, he comes up only when someone approaches his tank.. But he had
appetite...No food... Water change 20%, added salt
<Don't add salt>
Evening - Situation remained same...resting down.. not passing any
poo... Tried him 1 pellet soaked in water.. I had to find out what was
wrong... he ate that single pellet literally gulped it (Hikari cichlid
staple)... Moment after consuming the pellet, vertical black stripes
appeared out of no where and he went down to rest in the corner...
Monday (7th Sep) -
Morning - found him resting below, color darkened.. Started
Metronidazole treatment... Metrogyl 400 mg dissolve in luke warm water,
pellets soaked in that solution for 15 min.s.. fed him.. usual
appetite, usual aggression while feeding... once completed, body turned
black.. went down to rest...
Evening - Went home, found him resting on a corner.. he has passed Poo
- this time normal in structure but dark yellow in color? When someone
approaches, he swims fine... otherwise whole day resting in a corner -
Stomach bloating disappeared...
Water change 20%, added Salt
Tuesday (8th Sep - Today) -
Morning, same situation resting, dark stripes in the body... fed him
few pellets with Metrogyl soaked... He has passed Poo, small in
quantity but dark yellow in color
Help me guys what is going wrong??
<Salt... water quality likely, some toxicity...>
1. Looking at his swimming pattern - he does not have a swim
<... Cichlids do have such>
Sometimes he jumps to catch the pellet..
2. Internal Infection - He is not passing any white poo
3. Stomach is not bloated...
4. Immediately after food, the dark stripes come in, remains for some
time and then disappear..
Does he have a internal blockage???
One point wanted to mention here -- The bottom edges of his tank is
covered with some kind of a yellow/white film which I thought was water
mark on silicon gel..The fellow who prepared this tank had actually
emptied 1 full silicon gun on my repeated warnings of leak...
<... When was this done? What sort of Silicon/Silastic was used?
Some has mildewcide in it... for window use... is toxic. Could be at
This yellow/white kind of things keeps coming out from those edges,
specially when I change water or when there is a turbulence... some
part gets sucked by the canister, some again settles in the
Since yesterday I am also observing the same kind of this thing is
hanging from this dorsal fin.. ?? Is he also having an fungal
infection?? This is a new symptom came out of no where
Some ideas friends --- I am fearing, that I should not be late in
corrections.. he still has appetite for food... if he looses that, then
the damage would be done already...
<Do get hold of the Silicon cartridge, read what the intended use
is. Bob Fenner>
Re: PLSS HELP - Something wrong with my Flowerhorn - Unable
to diagnose Lernaea? 9/10/09
First of all thanks for stepping in to help me out
Update on the situation...
Yesterday I had first roller coaster ride in my 10 yrs of hobby..
The diagnosis was wrong..
I observed him sulking in a corner in a slanting position.. I observed
him lethargic, I observed him turning dark in color.. so the first idea
which anyone gets is an internal stomach problem...
But the confusion was
1. He had the usual appetite
2. His stomach was not bloated
3. He was passing poo normal in color
Tuesday (8th September 2009)
Evening - I observed whenever he sulks, he sulks in the same position
in whichever corner of the tank he chooses... He sits in a posture
where both his pelvic fins are covered in the ground, I also observed
that he has a very mild movement pattern sitting in the same position,
as if swinging like a pendulum...
I observed he had two red scars in his pelvic fin and a pure white
thread like structure 1 inch in length hanging from both the scars -
Worst part is that thread has a sac like structure or a ball at the
Wednesday (9th September 2009)
Morning - Saw the thread like structure has disintegrated from one of
the scars, one still has a remnant, very small in size..
Three new white pimple like structure arrived on his tail.. they were
new... looks like some kind of a white pimple...
Afternoon - My all doubts were Anchor worm, ...
<Ahh! A too-common parasite for pond-raised fishes, or kept with,
fed fishes from...>
I had seen this before with one of my friend's goldies, So I knew
how does an Anchor worm look like so, at the same time was not aware of
what is the commercially available medicine, whether will get it in
shorter time.. from anywhere..
He was always sitting in bottom, in a posture, which used to cover both
of his scars.. and he used to move some time to and fro as if rubbing
Decided to go for KMNO4 (PP) treatment..
<Mmm, not for Lernaea... Better the organophosphate route... DTHP or
Dimilin... Please read here re:
and the linked files above. You will need to extract/remove the adults
on the fish itself with tweezers>
Had a 23 litres tank - dosage of 10mg/litre of PP, prepared a PP
concentrated solution (25 mg in 500 ml of distilled water) and had put
5 ml of that in the 23 litres tank resulting in 230 mg of PP...
<Potassium permanganate is too strong an oxidizer for "casual
use"... too easy to serious burn fishes>
Transferred the FH into that tank, and allowed him to be there for 20
minutes with heavy aeration...
By god's grace he took the treatment well.. he was swimming.. all
through the treatment... there was heavy bubbling inside the tank.. the
clean water of PP was filled up with very small disintegrated
After 20 minutes took him out to a freshwater tub...
Cleaned his hospital tank thoroughly, filled - refilled twice,, and had
put him back again....in his small hospital bed
Then came the easy but the most tedious part.. had to again disinfect
his 300 litres tank with KMNO4... this time did not measured the KMNO4
amount.. just poured it liberally in the tank with all decors inside...
allowed the tank to sit for 30 minutes.. with PP solution...
<Yikes... stains most all. I would have used hypochlorite/chlorine
bleach... Per the protocol detailed on WWM>
Then cleaned all his decor, refilled and cleaned 300 lites twice, till
I was sure not a trace of KMNO4 was visible... poured it up with water,
dechlorinator, salt started heavy aeration for 4 hours.. then
transferred him back to his main home..
Immly he became white, all colors gone.. fed him two pellets, switched
off the lights,
Thursday (10 th September) - today morning
Colors got back to normal...he ate pellets, active than before but
still relatively lethargic..
<But... did you remove the adult Anchorworms/Crustaceans from the
Out of 5 pimples, 2 have vanished, 1 still exists, remaining 2 has very
slight traces.. I am just hoping, that those are dead by now and would
vanish in 2 - 3 days time..
I will be keeping a close watch on him...
Now the million dollar question I have, is how did this thing entered
in my tank..
On last Sunday (30th Sep) - I did a major cleaning of both of my 4 feet
tanks.. Till now I do not see anything to my Malawi Setup.. but the FH
I had kept him in a very good condition - I know difficult to believe,
but people who have seen him as regarded my tank as one of most clean
but still ...
I just hope that I am done.. and these remaining small spores would go
away with Salt and temperature and I do not have to treat him with PP
Had to do this, because these damn freaks were sucking all that I was
Just hope he pulls through...
<Thank you for sharing your experiences... observations and
reactions. Bob Fenner>
Sick Flowerhorn Please help..!! 8/13/2009
Hi there. I am in big need of some 911 fish help.!! First off here are
my water conditions 82 degrees f. Ph is 7.8 Ammonia is .25 and nitrite
<Ammonia and nitrite MUST be ZERO. If your fish is sick, this is
why. End of story.>
It is a 100 gallon tank. Ok now my Flowerhorn fish. I got him about 2
weeks ago. He's 3.5 inches long. He was added to a new aquarium
that was running for only one week before he was put in. He lives with
separated by 2 dividers (3 sections) .
<Overstocked aquarium, perhaps? Inadequately
filtered?><<Not cycled... RMF>>
He shares the section with 3 tiny non aggressive Flowerhorns.
<Non-aggressive because they're juveniles. The dominant one WILL
attack the others, and potentially kill them, once they're big
enough to be viewed as rivals.>
He wont eat any food for about 3 days.
<Because your water quality is terrible.>
Then maybe one pellet or two but he'll usually spit them out. Same
with frozen blood worms. His poop looks fuzzy like its covered with
<Fuzzy when it comes out of the fish? Or fuzzy because it sits on
the substrate for a while? With two dividers in the tank, I'd be
surprised if you have good water circulation at all. Put a bit of flake
at the bottom of the compartment furthest away from the filter inlet.
If it just floats about, then you have bad water circulation. What
should happen is that flake quickly gets carried by the current into
It doesn't look stringy like your average hex poop. This behavior
continued for about another week .He's not very energetic and keeps
to himself or hidden under a rock. So then I threw a couple feeders in
there after about a week of not eating.
<Why are you using feeder fish? These are parasite bombs.>
I know there bad but I needed to see some aggressiveness or eating or
something to show me he wants to live.
<"Wants to live"??? Look, it's sick because your water
quality sucks. Fix that, and he'll be back to normal.>
He killed a feeder then spit it out and went back to his usual
His nuchal hump grew more that day with the feeders in. Also a little
bit of energy that day. While chasing a feeder his anus came out about
1/4 of an inch and went back in about 5 minutes later. This happened
about 4 or 5 times that day. Now, 2 weeks later, he looks at his worst.
Please help if you have any ideas. Thanks so much Adam.
<Stop with the feeders. Read more, try harder. These fish all sound
to be honest. A single Flowerhorn needs a 55 gallon tank with a filter
rated at 6-8 times the volume of the aquarium in turnover per hour
(i.e., 330 - 440 gallons/hour). There's no point keeping them way
you're doing, because eventually most will die, and you'll be
stuck with one, likely sickly, bloated specimen. How about reading what
they need, identifying a correct diet, creating a tank appropriate to
their needs, and providing adequate water chemistry and water quality.
All this information is here.
Flowerhorn feeding 08/02/09
,hi! just a couple of questions.,,first have a juvenile FH., just
purchased last month.,when feeding, he seems not interested even though
im feeding it twice a day.,
<What are you feeding it? Most fish will get bored with one single
food, day after day. Moreover, you need to offer good quality food.
Hikari Cichlid Gold is probably the best pellet food, but this should
augmented with other foods. Earthworms, frozen bloodworms, cooked peas,
chopped seafood all make good foods for large cichlids.>
and when he starts to eat (after an hour or if there's no one near
the tank), he's splitting it out.,is it ok?.,
<Depends how much he eats. Is your fish healthy? Is its body gently
rounded? If it eats enough to be healthy, but spits out the rest, then
give less food.>
second, he looks afraid if someone's near the tank, the FH stays on
<How big is this tank? Flowerhorn cichlids are typical large Central
American cichlids. In small tanks they will be nervous. They need
plenty of space, a cave, and preferably some floating plants. For a
Flowerhorn, the tank should be at least 210 litres/55 gallons, and
there must be a cave (like a flowerpot, for example) big enough for the
fish to hide in and feel secure. Add some floating plants, real or
plastic, as you prefer. Fish swim in the open when they feel secure.
There must also be good environmental conditions. Hard, alkaline water
is important, aim for pH 7.5-8, 10+ degrees dH; and there must be 0
ammonia and 0 nitrite. In poor
environmental conditions, fish become nervous.>
but looks ok if no one's around.,lastly.,when will it starts to
show colors? I've ask the sales attendant and she
<Flowerhorns are hybrids, not a true species, and you cannot really
guarantee anything about them. They were very popular for a while, and
in Asia especially, still are. Farms produce them to a price, not a
So you get what you pay for. If you pay a good price from a reputable
breeder you can trust, you have a good chance of getting a colourful
specimen. If you buy a cheap fish from a pet store -- well, maybe you
get a good fish, but maybe not. A varied diet that contains both
crustaceans and plant material will enhance whatever colouration your
fish has. Good water quality will ensure the fish shows its best
colours. A dark aquarium with plenty of shade and floating plants will
encourage your fish to show its richest colours. If you feed an
inadequate diet, keep the fish in a brightly lit tank, give it no
shade, and make no effort to ensure optimal water conditions, your fish
will never show good colours -- even if it has good genes! Cheers,
feeding... same... 08/02/09
just a couple of questions,,
first, I've purchased a juvenile FH last month.
I noticed that every time I fed him, he seems not interested in food
even though im feeding him twice a day, and when he starts to eat
(after an hour or if theirs no one near the tank) he split it out.,is
it normal?.,.,second,, he looks afraid and stays on the corner if some
one's near the tank.,,I thought FH likes to stay in an open
area.,lastly.,when will it normally starts to show colors?,,I noticed
some redness around its
fin..and the markings are shining like greenish pearl when the light
strikes on it.,,,hope for a quick response.,.,thanks in advance..
<Second question about Flowerhorns that won't eat in two days!
In brief, Flowerhorn cichlids need a big tank to feel settled; aim for
210 litres/55 gallons. Water should be clean: 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, and
nitrate less than 20 mg/l. Like all Central American cichlids, the
water should be hard (10+ degrees dH) and basic (pH 7.5-8). Water
temperature should be middling, around 25 C/77 F. Like all cichlids, if
conditions aren't good, they'll become shy, nervous, and show
subdued colours. Next, their diet should be varied. There's no
point offering the same pellets day after day. They will get bored!
Provided a mixed diet alongside good quality pellets (such as Hikari
Cichlid Gold). Krill, cooked peas, bloodworms, chopped seafood will
all be readily accepted. Mixing crustacean and plant foods in their
diet is important for optimal colours. Finally, if you see redness on
the fins, this is often Finrot, and that's caused by poor water
quality. Check the
ammonia and nitrite; both should be zero. Correct the environmental
conditions, and treat with a suitable anti-Finrot medication. Cheers,
<Ah, you're welcome, I think! Neale.>
Brain damaged Flowerhorn? Fried, electrified...
I have an aprox 3 year old male ZZ Flowerhorn. Free to good home from
craigslist. He had been in a tank with an electric eel
and had been "hit " at least twice. I have been feeding him
raw prawn stuffed with Grand Sumo Flowerhorn pellets. He is in a 55g
bare bottom canister filter with 50% changes once a week with vacuuming
and replacement of 5 gallons daily. There has been an improvement in
He swims strange (when looking for food) and cannot target food at all.
He swims in its area and goes sideways inhaling water and if he is
lucky the food also. It has been suggested his nervous system is
damaged from the eel.
He has been this way for 3 weeks before I got him (I have had him a few
No one has been able to tell me how to help retrain him to eat.
<Likely too hard wired "fried" to be able...>
or if pellets will ever be an option as he cant seem to get them to
"suck" into his mouth.
<Not really a/the issue here>
What course of action would you recommend to ensure the rest of his
life is a good one?
<Too late... you placed this animal inappropriately... the quality
possible for its life is shot. Bob Fenner>
Thanks so much,
Re: Brain damaged Flowerhorn? - 6/23/09
I am his second home, what I described was his condition when I GOT him
free from craigslist. I was not the person who placed him with the
I am trying to give him a good life. He is now in a 55 bare bottom with
what I described. Is there a way to rehabilitate a previously
electrocuted fish that you know of?
<No dear... there is not as far as I'm aware>
I am sorry I was not more clear in my description.
He is taking prawn and pellets that sink.
<Ahh! I would use other such foods that you can get down to this
Thanks so much
<Welcome Lisa. BobF>