Please visit our Sponsors
FAQs on Freshwater Infectious (bacterial, fungal) Diseases: True Fungal...

Related Articles: Freshwater Fish Diseases, Freshwater DiseasesFW Disease Troubleshooting, Choose Your Weapon: Freshwater Fish Disease Treatment Options by Neale Monks, Understanding Bacterial Disease in Aquarium Fish; With a gallery of bacterial infections, a discussion of Fish TB, and a listing of major antimicrobial medications with examples available to fishkeepers By Myron Roth, Ph.D.,

Related FAQs: Infectious (bacterial, fungal, viral) Disease 1, Infectious FW Diseases 2, Infectious FW Disease 3, Infectious FW Disease 4, Infectious FW Disease 5, & Infectious Disease: Identification/Diagnosis, Causes/Etiology/Prevention, Cures/Medications, Case Histories: Bacterial, & By Type/Organisms: Fin & Mouth Rot, Columnaris, Mycobacteria/Tuberculosis, Whirling Disease, Bettas w/ Infections,

Rather rare... Most often bacterial in origin. True fungi are almost always "brought on" by poor overall health/death... i.e. decomposition

Fungus on some fish /RMF    11/3/14
Hi I wrote to you a few months ago about my large Silver Dollar who suddenly developed pop eye & fungus patches. Despite my best efforts he died.
<Am jumping in here; though Neale likely was corresponding with you. He'll see this when the sun comes up in Europe>
Within the past few weeks I noticed fungus appearing on at least 4 other fish and I am beside myself as I have beautiful large, expensive fish in this community tank. Went to a local guy who gave me a white powder to put in (unfortunately I didn't get the name but was told to keep it refrigerated).
<? What is this I wonder>
It is now 10 days later & I don't see much of a change & the tank is overdue for a water change. I keep the temp at 78 & check the Ph regularly & maintain it at approx 6.8.
<.... Ammonia, nitrite, nitrate? RedOx?>
Anything you could suggest would be greatly appreciated.
<When, where in doubt, serial water changes... Send pix and data. Bob Fenner>
Fungus on some fish /Neale    11/4/14

Hi I wrote to you a few months ago about my large Silver Dollar who suddenly developed pop eye & fungus patches. Despite my best efforts he died.
<Oh dear.>
Within the past few weeks I noticed fungus appearing on at least 4 other fish and I am beside myself as I have beautiful large, expensive fish in this community tank.
<As Bob F stated, without information about the aquarium hard to make useful suggestions. As always with freshwater aquaria, check nitrite first of all (as a test of water quality). Most fungal and Finrot infections are
opportunistic. Physical damage (e.g., from rough handling or fighting) plus non-zero ammonia and nitrite levels is (overwhelmingly) the commonest scenario.>
Went to a local guy who gave me a white powder to put in (unfortunately I didn't get the name but was told to keep it refrigerated).
<Presumably an antifungal. Methylene Blue is the oldest remedy for fungal infections, but there are many (some better/safer). But invariably remove carbon from the filter, if used, otherwise medications generally won't work.>
It is now 10 days later & I don't see much of a change & the tank is overdue for a water change. I keep the temp at 78 & check the Ph regularly & maintain it at approx 6.8.
<Do of course review the pH, hardness and temperature are appropriate to the species being kept. Rainbowfish and livebearers, for example, will get fungus infections in acidic conditions.>
Anything you could suggest would be greatly appreciated.
<Hope this helps. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Fungus on some fish     11/5/14

Neale and Bob ...thanks so much for your responses & Bob it was you I corresponded w/ about the SD back in early July this year.
What are "serial water changes?"
<A quick succession of water changes; not so much temperature and water chemistry are dramatically changed, but enough to rapidly dilute any problems. Typically, 20% once or twice a day works well,
certainly leave a few hours between water changes. If you can keep water chemistry and temperature steady, then changing 50% at once is worthwhile. Basically, the idea is to change as much of the water as possible, as frequently as possible, so that any stress factors (such as ammonia, nitrite or nitrate) are diluted away.>
The med I was given sounds like lovosmel phosphate (sp?) & the 1st round we did not remove the carbon but have done so now.
<Good. Almost always, if you leave (viable, fresh) carbon in the filter, then medications have reduced/no effect.>
Don't have a nitrite test kit (never needed it) but will get one now.
<Together with pH, nitrite is the key beginner's chemical test kit, and arguably the one every (freshwater) fishkeeper should have even if they don't own any others. Less confusing than ammonia (because false positives thanks to chloramine are common) and more immediately relevant to health than nitrate (which can largely be ignored if you stock moderately, feed moderately, and do regular water changes).>
A friend suggested we strip the tank, tossing the plastic plants & bleach the decos, what do you think of that??
<Possibly, and won't do any harm, provided you don't strip the filter.
Leave the filter running, remove rocks and ornaments so you can give them a good clean under a hot tap (bleaching isn't really necessary though), then stir the gravel so you can siphon out more of the dirt than otherwise. Deep cleaning a tank rarely/never fixes diseases, but can help reveal problems such as dead/rotting cadavers that are causing excessive water pollution.>
Attached are 2 pics of the most affected fish (lavender gourami). I have a few baby clown loaches & see them after the fungus.
Many thanks,
<Would actually wonder about Costia being the problem here. Sometimes called "Slime Disease" because affected fish develop larger than usual amounts of grey slime on their bodies. Various commercial medications are available, usually containing formalin. Use very carefully as directed because some fish (e.g., Loaches) respond poorly to these formalin. Look out for signs of stress such as gasping at the surface. Alternatives are
available. In the UK, I've found a medication called eSHa EXIT works quite well on Costia, especially alongside seawater dips. Conversely, avoid "cure-alls" such as Melafix that generally don't cure anything. Cheers, Neale.>

Re: Fungus on some fish     11/6/14
Neale, thank you so much for your detailed response. When I began fishkeeping 30 yrs ago I did have all the test kits but never had an issue w/anything other than pH.
Because I am disabled and need help doing stuff, typically 50% of the water gets changed every 4 weeks but because of the meds we're about 2 weeks overdue!
<Ah, well, best get on it this weekend!>
I will keep you posted. Thank you again.
<Glad to help. Cheers, Neale.>

Re: Fungus on some fish      11/7/14
Ok got the test kits, no nitrites but nitrates were a bit high, pH perfect.
Did a 50% water change (nitrates better), deep cleaned tank, threw out all old plants, washed & put in new decos & will do smaller water changes every other day for the next week & basically hope for the best.
<Sometimes all you can do/need to do.>
Thank you again.
<Most welcome. Neale.>

Hi Neale - Heterandria formosa, hlth..      8/10/13
Hi Neale,
How are you?
<Well, thank you.>
One of my Heterandria formosa has... whitening at the end of her tail and it looks like the top part of her caudal fin is gone.  The white spot is a large area of lack of color starting on the base of the body (I believe it is called the caudal peduncle or keel) and extends into the caudal fin. 
It does not look like icky. 
<It's not... it looks like fungus.>
Pictures are attached.  I have noticed a second smaller fish that looks like it is developing the same white spot.  I'm wondering if the tank should be treated with medicine, and if so with which?
<A reliable anti-fungus medication; at this point I'd skip Melafix and find something a bit stronger and more reliable. I'd also be tempted to add salt to the water if the rest of the tank won't mind. 2-3 gram/litre would be a good start, and above 5 g/l (about a tablespoon per US gal.) the salt alone will usually clear up the fungus. Do bear in mind Heterandria formosa has very good tolerance of salt, so there's little risk involved using salt.>
Water Parameters (this right before their weekly water change):
pH 8.0
Ammonia 0 ppm
Nitrite 0 ppm
Nitrate 20 ppm
Kh 7 dkH (125.3 ppm/KH)
GH 17 dKH (conversion chart doesn't go that high, but 17 drops to go from orange to green)
Temperature is in the mid 70Fs, there is no heater in the tank.
This is the same tank and colony we chatted about a few years back (and I still have the Gambusia affinis in another tank).  No new plants, fish or shrimp have been added to the tank since 2010.  (I tried Cherry shrimp but none survived, probably from the Prazi Pro in the tank a few months before for deworming).
I'm also wondering if I should deworm the colony again, I have noticed a few females that get really thin.
Thanks for your insights and advice!
<Hope this helps, Neale.>

Re: Hi Neale - Heterandria formosa    8/12/13
Hi Neale,
Thanks for your reply, I'll get some anti-fungus medication today.
<Real good.>
There is java moss in the aquarium, will it be okay with a tablespoon of salt per gallon?
<Yes, but if in doubt, take a clump of moss out, stick in a jam jar or similar, fill with water, and place somewhere bright but not in direct sunlight, and it should grow fine for a couple weeks, enough to "re-seed" the tank if needed. You will probably need to change the water every few days, especially if it goes green. If it goes brown, likely the Java Moss is getting too hot, hence avoid direct light. This trick for preserving aquarium plants can be handy if you have plants that you aren't sure will
survive some course of medication.>
If so, is marine salt (like Instant Ocean) okay to use?
<It's okay, though it will raise hardness and pH (which is fine for both Java Moss and Dwarf Mosquitofish). Normally aquarists treating freshwater fish will rely on plain aquarium salt (essentially non-iodised cooking "sea salt", often called Kosher Salt in the US). But in this case, the marine aquarium salt will be fine because your species don't mind the slight pH
and hardness rise.>
<Quick tip: measure out the salt as required, put into a jug or container, add warm water to dissolve (tap water will be fine) to make a brine. Now add, in stages across, say, half an hour, the salt to the aquarium. This gives the fish, plants and filter bacteria a little time to adjust. Adding salt crystals directly to the aquarium is a bad idea, but I'm sure you know that! Good luck, Neale.>
Re: Hi Neale - Heterandria formosa     8/13/13

Hi Neale,
Thanks for your help.  I bought Ampicillin and started treating yesterday.
Will the fish that in the photographs be okay to leave in the tank, or will leaving her in increase the chance of fungus returning?
<The fungi that attack your fish are the same fungi that do a good job helping to keep your aquarium clean. They're purely opportunistic, and if your fish are healthy and unstressed, they simply break down fish faeces and uneaten food into molecules the biological filter can process -- which is obviously important and beneficial. So, there's no point isolating fish
with fungal infections because all aquaria have these fungi anyway. In other words, treat the affected fish in the main aquarium. The exception would be where the infected fish had other problems that meant it couldn't swim or feed normally, and needed time away from the other fish in the main aquarium. Cheers, Neale.>

Re: Hi Neale - Heterandria formosa     8/14/15
Thanks Neale!
<Welcome, Neale.>

Growth on Gourami's mouth 09/15/09
Hi , I have a community tank with 2 Pearl Gourami fish and on the male one he has a white cotton like growth on his mouth.
<Likely one of two things, a fungal infection, or else something called Mouth Fungus that is, despite its name, a bacterial infection. Now, both of these infections look similar, but there are clues that tell them apart. True fungal infections are typically composed of fluffy white threads, often likened to cotton wool. Mouth Fungus (also known as Columnaris) tend to be more off-white to grey, somewhat slimy-looking, and more like a lumpy growth than tufts. Some medications treat both: for example Seachem Paraguard and eSHa 2000, in which case there's no need to differentiate them. Avoid therapies based on either salt or tea-tree oil (e.g., Melafix) as these tend to be unreliable.>
He has been acting weird and not eating properly.
<Both Mouth Fungus and regular fungal infections are typically caused by one of two things, often in combination. Physical damage, such as fighting or careless handling allows secondary infections to set in. Ordinarily the fish's immune system would deal with these, but in tanks with poor water quality, the immune system is weakened, and hence the infection gets out of hand.>
I am not sure what the growth could be or what I should do. I have a 23 gallon tank and all water levels are fine.
<Because this fish is clearly sick and suffering from either fungus or Mouth Fungus, I honestly don't believe the "levels are fine". If they were, your fish wouldn't be sick. To recap, Pearl Gouramis will need water with a stable pH between 6 and 8, hardness between 5-20 degrees dH, zero ammonia, and zero nitrite. Males can be mutually aggressive, and in a 20 gallon tank shouldn't be kept together.>
Thanks ,
<Cheers, Neale.>

Bristlenose with fungus? 08/04/09
<Hello Kate,>
I have a bristlenose Pleco who has been sharing a 40-gallon aquarium with a handful of African cichlids for the past 3 years. They normally get along quite well; the cichlids ignore the Pleco (but maybe there's a first time for everything...), and he usually stays out of sight in a cave among the rocks during the day.
<Ancistrus are at risk of being harmed when kept with the more aggressive African cichlids, particularly Mbuna.>
I had noticed that algae had been building up on the glass over the past few days, but I assumed the Pleco was holding out for an algae cookie, as he tends to do - he's a bit spoiled in that respect! This evening, when I moved the rocks around to do my weekly water change & vacuum the gravel, I was horrified to discover that the Pleco's snout was a mottled pale colour, and that his bristles were almost all gone. His snout also has a coating of some fuzzy white stuff that looks like fungus. He usually scuttles out of the way when I clean the tank, but this time he barely moved. He looks awful!
<Assuming it's fungus, which looks like white cotton wool threads, treat accordingly.>
I had some Maracyn (about a year old - is this ok?) on hand, so I dosed the tank with that,
<Unlikely to cure Fungus. The same goes for Melafix (tea-tree oil). You do need a genuine anti-fungal medication.>
and I added a bit of extra aquarium salt as well.
<Don't. Salt won't help, and some African cichlids, such as Mbuna, may develop bloating when exposed to saline conditions.>
All of the water parameters are normal.
<As in...? I need numbers, not judgments! Fungus is caused either by poor water quality or physical damage. So, check firstly you have 0 ammonia and 0 nitrite. Secondly, think about the companions. Some African cichlids are harmless enough when kept with Ancistrus, notably Kribs. But Mbuna would be a very bad choice of tankmates, since they'd persistently nip and buffet these poor catfish, causing physical damage.>
I realize that a separate tank would probably be best, but my old 10-gallon tank is in storage and doesn't have a proper cover (and with a new kitten in the house, this just spells disaster). Is it ok to continue dosing the main tank? Is the treatment even worth it?
<Yes. Fungus clears up pretty well.>
The Pleco seems to be in really bad shape and I don't want him to suffer needlessly if it's a lost cause.
<Well, the "suffer needlessly" bit assumes you're going to euthanise a fish in a way that doesn't cause pain. See here:
Thanks for any advice you can provide,
<Cheers, Neale.>

Saprolegnia on shark (RMF, second opinion?) <<Nada to add>> 4/26/09
Hi crew! Please help me! I am trying desperately to save my iridescent shark.
<Yes, I can see from the photos he's in a bad way. A very difficult species to maintain, and I fear the problem here is more about his environment than anything else. Iridescent Sharks are food fish, and they simply don't do well in home aquaria. While they can be kept in aquaria if you have lots of space, 55 gallons isn't enough. Moreover, they are difficult fish to mix with other species. Despite their size, they are super-nervous, and perhaps surprisingly, should be kept in schools of 3 or more specimens.>
He is 5 years old. Was staying in an established 5 year old tank, 55 gallon, with two kissing Gourami and a Pleco. Don't exactly know how he got hurt, maybe fight with Pleco that is a foot long.
<Not so much a fight, but I do wonder if [a] the Iridescent Shark bruised himself or otherwise develop a light infection; and then [b] the Plec took advantage of this and started rasping away at the infected tissue. Plecs are notorious for "latching" onto injured, moribund or otherwise slow-moving fish that are exuding blood or mucous into the water. While I'm not 100% sure, this is my guess here.>
My shark is 10 inches.
<Way too big for this aquarium. Even if the Plec exacerbated the situation, the primary cause of the wound or infection was surely some combination of water quality and/or physical damage, e.g., jumping into the hood or bumping into ornaments. Heater burns are another common cause of mortality and injury among catfish.>
The next day noticed the patch of cottony fungus, identified as saprolegnia. I set up a10 gallon hospital tank at 80 degrees.
<Can't possibly keep this fish in 10 gallons. I'm surprised it even FITS into a 10 gallon tank!>
I treated water with 1 tsp water conditioner (Jungle Start Right with Allantoin, a skin protectant), 1 tsp of Wardley Ick Away (malachite green), 1 tsp. of Melafix and 1 tsp of Jungle Fungus Clear Tank Buddies
(Nitrofurazone, Furazolidone, potassium dichromate).
<Random medicating is usually not a good idea. Remember, while Fungus isn't especially difficult to treat, it's a secondary infection that results from poor water conditions and injury. In a case like this, you need the fish to be in optimal water conditions, and even on his own, 55 gallons would barely provide that, let along 10. You also need to treat with something very specific for severe fungal infections; I'd recommend something along the lines of Seachem KanaPlex. Melafix is useless once fungal infections are established (I'll allow it might have some preventative value) and Ick medication is clearly irrelevant.>
The only other items in the tank are the heater and an air stone. I have been feeding him Jungle Anti-Bacteria Medicated Fish Food, but he does not seem to be eating anything.
<Don't feed him at all until he's in a tank offering optimal water conditions: 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, low nitrate, pH stable around 6.5-7.5, and moderate hardness.>
I clean up the food that he does not eat each morning. His eyes are clouded over, maybe he can't find his food.
<Not a good sign; usually implies (if both eyes are cloudy) some type of secondary bacterial infection. Again, KanaPlex should help.>
He has been in this treatment for 5 days, with no improvement, seems worse.
His body is almost completely covered now.. I am sending you pictures.
When will this treatment start to help?
Or am I doing something wrong?
Please help me!
<Done my best. While I've seen fish come back from worse (they really are amazing sometimes) this does depend on optimal environmental conditions, which I fear you're not providing. Seriously, this is a fish that needs a tank twice the size of what you have, if not more, and a whopping filter with massive water turnover and plenty of supplemental aeration. Iridescent Sharks are classic riverine fish with little tolerance for stagnant water. Adults are routinely 60-70 cm long under aquarium conditions, and wild specimens twice that, weighing about the same as a family dog. Big fish.
Cheers, Neale.>

fungus disease Hi Bob! Is it true that fungus will die off if the aquarium is left alone without fishes? And how long is the period? Thanks. Regards, Arise. >> True funguses are most everywhere in aquatic environments. Pathogenic (disease inducing) types in captive systems are rare, and without impugned host flesh to consume, disappear to low virulence within a few days. Bob Fenner

Sick swordtail and neon tetra Dear crew, I would like to thank you very much for your help previously (it was very useful and I have recommended you to my friends) but now I have two more problems. To begin with, my male swordtail has a torn fin with some fluffy stuff on the wound and is not eating well. <The fluffy stuff is fungus... which is not good at all. The fish has a true body fungus infection (not Columnaris, this is true fungus) -- I suggest you look at the Mardel list of medicines to help the fish. Treat with MarOxy, read the package carefully and do as the directions say. Use Maracyn-Two or Maracyn or Tetracycline or TriSulfa to prevent secondary infections. I would start medicating so the fungus does not spread.  I have found that Mardel Products work the best for livebearers such as swordtails.> My neon tetra is not eating, not swimming well and is looking "pale". <Neon Tetras are schooling fish and feel more comfortable in large groups.  A single neon will get sick due to stress.  I'm not saying that you should go and buy more Neons, just keep this in mind down the road if you want to expand your tank.  Neons like mature tanks.  Typically having a tank up and running for a minimum of 6 months before adding them to the tank.  If the neon is in the same tank as the swordtail then the medicines listed above should help it.  But keep a closer look at the neon, when they start to turn pale it's not a good sign at all.  Check you water parameters, and make sure that they ammonia, no3, and no2 are all zero.  The sad fact with Neons is that sometimes they just waste away for no reason.  Keep the water fresh, and make sure the temp and filtration are all okay.  hopefully he will come back around.> What's wrong with them? I've isolated them and put them in a container filled with nice, new, clean water and put in some fish medicine labeled "General Aid". <Look over WetWebMedia's disease area on the site.  You will be able to learn what you need to care for your fish. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwdis3setsfactors.htm There are many other pages which are linked on the top of the page, I suggest looking them all over.> It's been 3 days and nothing's happening. Is there anything else I should do? <I would switch to a more aggressive medicines like the ones given above>  Thank you so much for your help.

White Furry Growth on Black Ghost Knife Hello Web Wet Media Crews, Happy New Year. "Houston", we have a problem! My 16cm Black Ghost Knife is covered with furry white "slim/growth" all over its body, including its eyes. At first I thought it was body fungus <You are right it is fungus.  It's a true fungus that attacks the outer layers of the fish. Fungus prefers cool temperatures, acidic conditions, so check the temp of the tank and what the pH levels are at.> used "OCEAN FREE" medication. I have no idea what it contains but it turned the water really green. <Not sure what actually does turn it green, but it's suppose to do that.> I did a partial water change. I increased the water temperature from around 26 or so to 32 Degree Celsius. <Make sure you medicate the exact way the package tells you to do so, doing water changes during treatment simply removes the medicine already in the tank.> My BKG fish stopped fishing and rest on the bottom of the tank for the whole 3 days. When I used an object to lightly scrape its body, the whiter furry things is easily peeled off. <It's best not to physically scrape the fish, you run the risk of scraping the fish, damaging it skin, or bothering what's left of it's protective slime coating.  If you should scrape the fish, the bacteria can get deeper into the fishes skin causing more problems.> This happened quite often. What seems to be the problem? Is it a fungus growth, water conditions or other ailments? <The fish has true body, mouth and eye fungus, a fungus infection -- treat with MarOxy. Use Maracyn-Two or Maracyn or Tetracycline or TriSulfa to prevent secondary infections.> You guys have provided me with many valuable tips that keep my fish surviving till now. I hope you can help me with this again. Many thanks.    <Hope that helps.  I hope your knife gets better! -Magnus>

Re: White Furry Growth on Black Ghost Knife. Passed Away Hey Magnus. Just a few minutes I sent you a reply, my fish passed away. <I'm so sorry to hear of your loss.  It is a very sad thing when we lose pets we cared for.> Nevertheless, I would like to thank you and the whole crew for the help. <I'm just sad that I was unable to help you save your fish.  But remember we are hear to help you, so ask a question anytime.> 1 more question.... can I bury my fish in my flowerpots? Is it safe to do that? <You would need to have a large flowerpot, and you run the risk of having loads of bugs and such coming into you flowerpots after the body of the fish.> Will the disease be spread to the plants? <Fungus can spread to the roots of certain plants provided the soil is acidic and moist.  I really would worry that the decomposition will affect the pH of the soil and hurt the plants.  I would probably dispose of the body in a different way.> What is the best moral ethnical way to dispose one's beloved died sick fish? <With large fish I have actually buried them in the back yard.  Please don't take offense to third, if you have no yard, you could always seal it in a multiple bags and simply deposit it in the trash. some people became far to attached to do that to the fish, and would hate to "throw them away".  I would try and find a place to bury it if you want, rather than throwing it away.  A park or some other area would be better than your flowerpots.   I'm sorry to hear of your fishes passing, I do hope that you know that you had done your best to care for it.  -Magnus>

Cottony strands I'm a novice. <We've all been there.  Have to start someplace.> I don't know the Latin names of my fish. I have 2 mostly black angelfish, 1 that's mostly silver, 3 zebra Danios, a beta, a plecostomus, or however you spell it and a "whatchamacallit" catfish all in a 55 gallon tank. <"Whatchamacallits are hard to find this time of year. (humor attempted in that last sentence).  You might have a problem with you angelfish picking at your Betta as they become older.  Angels will be very aggressive in adulthood.  Many kill their tankmates.> Now the silver angelfish has cottony, beaded strands attached to it. Most of the strands appear to be around the gills. <The white cottony strands are a fish fungus, and is often times referred to columnaris.  It usually forms on areas were there is damage from nipping or rubbing on objects in the tank. It only effects fish that have been injured or weakened in some way.  If an attack appears to occur spontaneously, it is probably a secondary infection, for instance gill flukes.  Fungus, if untreated, will spread across the fish.> It seems healthy but I know this must be treated and I'm not sure what treatment I should use. These are very fine strands that are about a half inch to 2 inches long and hard to notice and may have been there for some time. Any help would be greatly appreciated. In your debt, Randy Davis <You will have to make sure that the water conditions are okay.  I find that the fungus happens predominately in tanks with less than perfect water conditions.  You can treat with Mardel's Maracyn.  This quickly cures the fungal infection.  Good luck. -Magnus>

FW disease question Hello again. I have a jewel cichlid that appears to have fungus on his top fin. it is a puffy white ball. I have quarantined him and treated with jungle fungus medication for four days, but had no success. I then switched to Maracyn and it has been three days with that and no difference. Could it be something else? Can this just be cut off with scissors? There now seems to be another fish in the main tank with the same problem, which I'll be moving to QT, so I'd like to know what to treat them with. Also, would a UV light prevent things like this in the future? Thanks, as always, for the help and advice, < Fungus usually attacks diseased or damaged tissues. With the rough and tough jewelfish this isn't that uncommon. Remove the fish from the water and take some cotton balls and wipe as much as the fungus away as you can and treat  the tank with Nitrofuranace. Make sure you do a 30% water change and clean the filter before you medicate and follow the directions on the package.-Chuck> Jim g

Become a Sponsor Features:
Daily FAQs FW Daily FAQs SW Pix of the Day FW Pix of the Day New On WWM
Helpful Links Hobbyist Forum Calendars Admin Index Cover Images
Featured Sponsors: