Malawi tank setup
   Hello, my name is James.                                             
    I am new to the hobby and am looking for a little help.  I have read some
of your FAQ's, and have already learned quite a bit.  I just (approx. one
month ago) bought an already established 55 gal. tank with 5 healthy Malawi
Cichlids, I believe they are all in the Red Zebra group, although 2 of them are a
brilliant orange color, and the other 3 are kind of purple/rusty brown with
faint vertical stripes, but the same physical build/shape as the orange ones.  The
tank came with a Magnum 350 canister filter with twin Bio-Wheels, (Bio-Wheels
are not hooked up presently due to lack of room on back of tank, although I
would like to change that soon), Whisper Second Nature water fall type filters
(a double and a single, both in use now, hence the lack of room for the
Bio-Wheels), under gravel filters w/power heads, one of which is a Powerhead 402
that has the output going into a Sea Storm Fluidized Bed (?) Bio-Filter.
    I saved 20 gallons of their original water, two 5 gallon buckets of
"normal" mixed color aquarium gravel (rinsed and re-used), a few medium to large
rocks stacked for "caves".  The water is finally clearing up after adding
bacteria, and I have put some sea shells in to buffer the PH.  I have even seen some
possible breeding rituals recently (much to my surprise).  I have gotten this
far by reading a couple books and some Google searches, but seem to run into
some conflicts over the salt issues.  Some of the fish stores (I know, not the
best place for all the answers) say they don't need salt, some say they do,
one even called Cichlids "brackish fish", but that doesn't sound right, either.
Most of the web sites say they need salt, but I still have not seen any
target salinity numbers.  I have a floating glass hydrometer but it shows a spec.
gravity of 1.0 in the tank or in a glass.  I added aquarium salts at one table
spoon per 10 gallons as stated, and even 24 hrs. later still 1.0.  Added 2
more table spoons, next day the same.  Now have a "needle" type hydrometer, with
a salinity scale, it is reading about a 5.  I would like to see if the
breeding habits will continue fruitfully, so are there any suggested guidelines for
an appreciated level?
< You don't need salt but it is beneficial. You are right on track with keeping the pH up. These fish are aggressive and have teeth to back it up so they are always scrapping among themselves. A couple of tablespoons of rock salt per ten gallons of water is just enough to help the fish develop a slime coat on their bodies to protect them against diseases.>
   Also just got some 5 in 1 test strips (Mardel) for the first samples taken
the PH is 8.0, the Total Alkalinity is between 180, Total Hardness is between
120 and 250,      Nitrite is 0, and Nitrate is between 80 and 200 (closer to
200).  I plan on doing a       20% water change, and have a few plants
starting to sprout now (if the fish don't get 'em).  Should this calm down on its
own?  Cause for concern?  Any other ideas would be appreciated.
   Well, I guess that was long-winded enough for now.
< You need to get the nitrates down to under 25 ppm. Don't let the filters accumulate so much waste before changing them and try not to overfeed. You should be feeding them an algae based food like Spirulina flake once a day and only enough so that all of it is gone in a couple of minutes. Let them eat the algae off the rocks like they do in nature to get the rest of their food. High nitrates will cause lots off algae and disease.-Chuck>                                                            Thanks for your time,                                                            James.

How Many Yellow M'buna?
<Hi, mike D here>
How many yellow lab cichlids should I place into a 55 gal. tank with plenty
of rocks and caves?<As I'm sure you're aware, the Labidochromis are part of the large group of aufwuchs feeding cichlids from Lake Malawi that actually have to be crowded to prevent establishment of territories by the dominant male. The number for a 55 would depend on whether you're buying adults or fry, with a much higher number permissible if the latter.  It also depends on whether you're planning on adding any other species and upon the reasons for your tank. Is it enjoyment only or are you trying to set up a species breeding tank?>

Yellow labidochromis II
enjoyment at this time. May be later as a breeder. I have recently purchased
4 electric yellows, 4 electric blues, 4 zebras and 4 violets. Along with 4
black tip sharks. All the cichlids are about two inches in size, a few maybe
smaller. But all seem to be doing great. How many more would you recommend adding
into a 55 gallon? The local pet store owner suggested about 25. But I wanted
to ask your opinion.
<The only problem I see with your grouping is in the "black tipped sharks" which are either marine or brackish catfish if they are what I think they are and are likely to end up shredded and infected with fungus, against which they have no natural immunity, which can then infect your cichlids. With an M'buna tank such as yours I'd look to either catfish of the Synodontis family (cats with teeth and an attitude) or botias to take their place.
A Tiger botia is one of the few fish I've seen that will back an M'buna down, with many of the Synodontis cats being just as assertive. Synodontis angelicus, for example, is one of the most attractive of the African cats and one I'm sure that you'd enjoy.
As to actual numbers, you're good to go as is, with the rest being purely choice.>
Thank you so Much. Roy Ferrell

Electric yellow cichlids
I have recently bought a mating pair of electric yellow cichlids
<Sorry, they really don't pair up. They get together when they are ready to spawn. After they spawn then the "pair" bond  is broken>
and added
them to my 5 gallon aquarium < This is way too small.>. I have plenty of rock work and plants to add
to the territory. I want to know if this is alright cause I'm getting my
brand new 15 gallon aquarium tomorrow may 9 < This will be better but if you really want to get into African cichlids then eventually you will need a even bigger tank. if I need to move them in to
there can you please tell me and also can you tell me what type of cichlids
I can also put with my 2 5 inch Oscars and Sailfin pleco thank you
, <Eventually your Oscar and Sailfin pleco will get large , 12 inches for the Oscar and up to 20 inches plus for the pleco if properly cared for.
also I want to start getting into the "aquarium business' of selling and
stocking and breeding fish. can you please give me help of how to set this
up thank -----------
< Sean I think you need to get a couple of books and read them very carefully if you want to get into cichlids. The first is "Enjoying Cichlids " by Ad Konings. It can be bought online at CichlidPress.com. The other is the "Cichlid Aquarium " by Dr. Paul V. Loiselle. Published by Tetra Press. Between the two you will get an excellent overview of cichlids and realize what is required to properly take care of and breed these great aquarium fish. You could also join the American Cichlid Association. They put out some great publications on cichlids as well as offering a trading post bulletin that lists all kinds of cichlids for sale that may not be available at your local store. After you have mastered the art and science of breeding cichlids then I would recommend work on the ones you love to keep and breed. I learned a long time ago that when you are in the fish business you are breeding fish that other people want, maybe not what you really like. -Chuck> Sean *cichlid* (for loving cichlids) Brown

Green Water
I know many people have asked this same old question but none seem to help me out. My mother has a 39 Gallon Eclipse System with the Eclipse 2 Filter on it, all came as a package. She has been doing partial water changes about once a week. I also told her to feed less with she cut down to about every other day. She only leaves light on for maybe 5 to 8 hours a day. She has tried so stuff from the local fish stores for clear water with no success. Oh, it is also a African cichlid tank. 
< I will assume that the term "African cichlid tank" refers to Lake Malawian cichlids.> 
I tested the tank for PH, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. All seem to be fine. I bought her a slightly larger algae eater then the smaller on she has. There are no live plants in the tank only the regular ornaments. She has even taken the water down to about 10 percent , there was just enough for the fish to stay at bottom, she cleaned the sides of the tank with an algae brush when the water was down that low. When she filled it back up it was somewhat better but came back rather quickly. I hope you have some suggestions on how I can help her fix it, She has the tank built in to our bar, she did it herself, so creative and its the first thing people see when they come over and its driving her crazy. Thanks for your help, We really appreciate anything you could tell us.   Ricky Daniels
< African cichlids like to be crowded and put a heavy demand on any filtration system. The eclipse systems by Marineland are very good. These cichlids are very active and always seem hungry. I would reduce the feeding to once a day with a Spirulina flake food. The rest of the food they can get by eating the algae off the rocks like they do in the wild. Stay away from foods high in animal protein. Reduce the water temperature to 77 degrees and slow things down a little bit. Many people like to keep it up around 80.Vacum the gravel to remove the sludge build up. You would be surprised how much waste is stored there. Service the filter weekly. Don't wait until it is totally full. Filters don't remove waste they just hang on to it until you remove it from the system. Try these along with your weekly water changes and things should clean up quickly.-Chuck> 

RE: Pseudotropheus lombardoi
Thanks a lot for your reply, pretty much answered every question I can come up with =) Ya... I did the pot idea, I took my time and broke them into nice half-pots for cave areas... and sanded the edges down, but it does look pretty unnatural. I do have one more lack-of-creativity question for you: What are the best kind of rocks to provide cave areas for a large amount of cichlids (ten or so), and how much ground area should they cover in a 30 gallon tank -- should I leave small passages to each cave opening and an area in the front of the tank free for swimming? 
< Stay away from sedimentary rocks that may leach chemicals into the water and stay away from rocks with rough surfaces. As the fish may dash against them while they are being chased and they will be less likely to hurt themselves. Round river rocks will work fine. Make sure that they are actually on the bottom of the tank and not just in the sand. As the fish excavate the sand then caves may collapse on them. Try some floating plastic plants too for color.-Chuck> 
Thanks again for taking the time with my annoying questions! 
-Nick

Gonads and Strife?  No, Nitrate and Cichlids
Hi Crew, 
I haven't had to rely on your knowledge for quite some time. Thanks again for having a great site and offering support. I have a 66 Gallon aquarium with Lake Malawi Cichlids. 3 purple peacocks, 3 nakali,2 red top zebras, 4 electric blues. Everything has been going great for a while now I even have 4 fry inside the tank. I noticed some of my fish in the last couple days have been sucking air. I did a water test yesterday and PH was around 7.5 which I'm thinking should be more around 8. Ammonia was <.1 Nitrites 
0.1 nitrate over 100mg/l. Yea that's what I thought ouch. So the directions on the test kit said above 100mg/l at least %50 of Water needs to be changed. I think I did more like a %40 water change. So then today after work I tested the water again and ph is still 7.5 ammonia <.1 Nitrites 0.1 Nitrates still show up as 100mg/l. I then did another %50 water change and I just don't get it Nitrates are still at 100mg/l. I thought something must be out of whack with my test kit so I tested tap water and the tap water shows 0mg/l nitrates. If I have changed so much water would it not be impossible to still have 100mg/l nitrates? 
< Fish waste and excess food are broken down by bacteria into first ammonia, then nitrite and then nitrate. Nitrate cannot be broken down on a major scale in the aquarium. This can be diluted with a water change or absorbed by living plants. I think you are attacking the problem at the wrong end of the chain. I would first clean out the filter. Filters don't remove waste they just store it until it is removed. Don't wait for it to become totally full. Then do a water change and see if there is any reduction in the nitrates. Next week I would vacuum the gravel while doing the water change and leave the filter alone. Check the nitrate levels once again. If there are still excessive nitrates then see if you are overfeeding. Nitrates usually cause algae problems too. You Malawi cichlids are probably keeping it somewhat under control. -Chuck>

Trouble with Nitrate and cichlids - II
Thank you for your quick reply. If I clean out the filter and then do a water change will I be removing too much of the good bacteria. 
< There are bacteria living in the gravel too. That's why I said to clean the filter one week and then clean the gravel the other week. If you did it all at once then you would have a problem unless you had a wet dry filter or a Marineland filter with a BioWheel.> 
Also on Wednesday we are moving to a new house and I was planning on saving and transporting my water for the aquarium. Should I now not bother or should I just save some of the water? I'm worried about not having the tank cycled properly but I guess if my water is poisonous it is no longer worth saving. What do you suggest I do about my situation. 
< Make sure you save the gravel, keep it wet in an open container like a plastic trash can. Don't seal it up or leave it out in the sun or the bacteria will surly die. I would not worry too much about the water. gently rinse the gravel to remove most of the heavy sludge. Check the water at your new house for chloramines and make sure you have a water conditioner that will handle it. After you set up your tank I would not feed the fish for a few days or at least very little until things get settled in. Check the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate often and your tank should bounce back fairly quickly. > 
And if I may I have one more question about substrate. As stated I have Malawi cichlids and I have read through all the Faq's and I still slightly confused about the use of crushed coral for substrate. I have read that it raises the Ph which is good for fish but it also decomposes and gives off ammonia. So should I bother using it or not? 
< Crushed coral is mostly calcium carbonate and buffers the water as it dissolves if the water becomes acidic. That's why it is good for African cichlid tanks because it helps prevent the water from becoming too acidic. Shells work well for this too. Never heard of the ammonia thing before.> 
I was considering purchasing some Carib Sea African Cichlid Mix is that the same as crushed coral? 
< Check you water at your new house for pH and hardness. Most areas of the country and out here in the west the water is fine for Africans right out of the tap. The northwest seems to have naturally soft acidic water due to all the high rainfall they get. I don't personally use the Carib sea African cichlid mix because I don't need it. But I am sure the principles work the same and there is probably some crushed coral in it but I can't say for sure. If you like the look of it then in definitely won't hurt to use either one.> 
I have also read that some people use sand but what kind of sand would this be? 
< Beach type sand is fine. Anything that the individual grains are were worn and rounded so they are not abrasive to the fish would work. Stay away from sand blasting sand. This sand is crushed and has angular sides and is meant to be abrasive. It would not be wise to use this sand because it would be just as abrasive to the skin and mouth parts of the fish. You could also mix some crushed coral with the sand too.-Chuck> 
Thx again for your help - Ron

Lace Rock
I want to decide this once and for all with the experts. I have been told
you can use Lace Rock from your African Cichlid tank as base rock in a
salt water tank.
< Sorry but I am not quite sure what "Lace Rock" is. If it a substrate or rock that buffers the water to keep the pH up then it may work for a fish only tank depending on the composition of the lace rock material. If you are setting up a mini reef then the mineral parameters need to be much more exact to keep the corals alive and thriving.>
This would save me some money. I have seen it with purple coralline algae on it in the pet shop. Another shop says NO WAY! Never use
it. What's your opinion. Have you ever used it without harming fish or
corals? It's been in fresh water tanks for 3 or so years now if that
matters at all. I'd like to know your opinion.
< Please provide more information on this lace rock and what kind of salt water tank you wish to set up. -Chuck>
Thanks,
Chet Andrew
Aurora Co.

New African Cichlid Tank
Hello,
Great site. I am getting a lot of info from you. I have a couple of
questions. I am setting up a new 30 Gal tank (I plan on going with the Lake
Malawi Cichlids) and the pet store told me to get Hawaiian coral, but a guy
in work said that I should use sand. Which do you recommend?
<Lake Malawi water is hard and alkaline. If you live in an area where the water is soft (Without minerals and low pH) then you will need to amend your water to bring up the ph and keep it up around 7.5 or higher. A crushed coral sand will buffer the water so it will dissolve into the water if the pH gets low. If you live in the west then the water may already be hard and alkaline so you could use either the sand or crushed coral.>
They also told
me to get Red Sea salt. Is there special Cichlid salt?
< Lake Malawian water is not salty. I drank it straight from the lake for two weeks last year while on an expedition. Some Epsom salts will add to the magnesium content of the water but sea salt is not needed. >How much salt do I
add for a 30 Gal tank?
< These salt mixes will add to the mineral content of the water, but I would use them sparingly if at all. Malawian cichlids are pretty tolerant of a wide range of water conditions. Get a pH test kit and check your tap water. There are lots of chemicals you can buy to increase the pH. If you can get the pH up then I probably wouldn't add anything at this time.-Chuck>
Thanks for your help.
Jim Flesch

Simple beautiful lighting?
For now I have a freshwater African cichlid tank 135gallons.
I've always loved the spectral look of metal halide.
Is there a way to get that look (and only the look) without killing my fish or my wallet?  It seems total overkill to buy metal halide when there are no corals or plants in the tank. I've seen a few posts on Halogens but there was no info on color temp or whether they were safe for fish. Has anybody tried low watt halogen with fish only?
<I am going to let you in on a little secret I learned a few years ago. I was tired of seeing my Lake Malawian cichlids not look as good as the photos from the wild. I tried all different kinds of foods with some improvement but still not what I would call killer colors. I looked into saltwater tanks at numerous fish stores and talked to guys in the aquarium maintenance businesses and they all seem to have two florescent tubes over every saltwater tank. Use a twin tube fixture with an electronic ballast. You can get 4 foot long fixture at the hardware store in Cal for around $20 but make sure it has a electronic ballast, very important. After trying numerous bulbs I found I really like the Zoomed line of bulbs made in Germany. They are a T-8 bulb and not a T-12 . So they use less electricity and give off almost the same amount of light. To show off the tank and promote health algae on the rocks that the cichlids love to eat I use the Zoomed Ultra Sun bulb. It is pretty bright and lights up the tank and rocks very well. In the other fixture I use the Zoomed Coral Sun Actinic 420 bulb. This bulb really highlights the fish especially the blue ones. You may try the other "sun" type of bulbs to bring out reds/yellows or oranges instead of the Ultra sun bulb. I think you will really notice a difference in your fish.-Chuck>
Thanks,

African cichlids
I have 3 African cichlids, Mbuna I think. I have 1 yellow lab, 1 bumblebee, and 1 blue one with black stripes. Oh yea, and a pleco. I have them all in a 20 gallon tank with lots of rock and artificial rock caves/tunnels for territories and such. Could I put 1 or more small African cichlids in this tank?
< Sure . Make sure you have enough filtration to pump at least 90 gallons per hour. When you add the new fish take all the rocks out of the tank, add the new fish and replace the rocks in different locations. The fish will all be to busy establishing new territories to bother the new fish. Be aware that they will begin to get larger. Think about  a 55 gallon for a good long term set up for your Mbuna.>
How many African cichlids can I put in a 20 gal?
< African Mbuna from Malawi actually like to be crowded. This is where you need good filtration and need to keep up on your water changes. Your Labidochromis is fine, he only gets around three inches. The others will probably get bigger depending on the species. Look at Ps. saulosi, Ps. livingstoni, Ps. acei as possible species to add. They don't get too big.>
Would the existing fish bother him?
<When you are done rearranging the tanks then turn out the light until the next day.>
I bought some floating pellet food, but my African cichlids, Mbuna I think, seem to be too occupied with their caves to come to the top and get the food.
< Feed them less often and I am sure they will come out.>
...Also, are algae wafers a good thing to feed them?
<Algae wafers are great food for Mbuna and your pleco. -Chuck>
                                                                                           Thanks,
                                                                                           Dylan

Planting the Rift Lake Tank 
I have a 75 gal 20" tall tank and am keeping African Cichlids. Water parameters are PH=8.4 GH=15 KH=10. Lights are kept on for 12 hours/day. I have (2) 55w 6500k pcf's installed in the canopy and recently added a fixture for (2) 24" 20w T-8's or T-12's. My question is what type and color temp bulb would you suggest in the 24" tubes for good plant growth? 
<My personal preference is for 10,000K bulbs, all the way.... many folks prefer 7500K bulbs, though, for PC-lit plant tanks. Please do read up on this topic, as there are quite a few opinions, and no perfect "right way" - here is an excellent article to help you understand and decide what you want: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/PlantedTksSubWebIndex/lightingags.htm > 
I have tried Java Fern and Amazon Sword because they were recommended. Seems the Africans won't trash them quite as bad as some of the tastier types. 
<Mm, beside the fact that rift lake pH is simply too high to keep healthy Swordplants in, I'm pretty sure any Echinodorus would be a nice cichlid salad.... but they shouldn't eat java fern. Please check to be sure you haven't planted the rhizome (the thick base that the leaves and roots sprout from) of the java ferns; burying this will cause the plant to rot and die. Only plant the soft roots. Or, better yet, attach them to driftwood or porous rock. For some more hardy plants, look to the genus Anubias - these should be too tough for the cichlids to eat. Plant the same way as java fern. Java moss (completely unrelated to java fern) is particularly indestructible, and extremely versatile. Crinum (especially C. thaianum) plants would be a good option, if you want something tall and grass-blade like. There are other options, but these should get you off to a good start.> 
Haven't had very good luck getting them to grow, seem to be slowly withering away. As of yet I haven't tried any plant fertilizer. Any types you can recommend? 
<My preference is with the Seachem and Kent fertilizer lines; at this point, start with a simple liquid fertilizer containing iron while you decide exactly what plants you want, and learn their needs. Please check out this article to learn more: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/PlantedTksSubWebIndex/majmicrnutrplts.htm > 
Thanks. 
<You bet! Wishing you well, -Sabrina>

Tanganyikan setup - 12/8/03
HI, great site! Wondering if you could answer a few questions of mine? <Will do my best>  I've currently started a  Tanganyikan tank, 75gal. starting out so far I have bought 5 juvenile black calvus and so far only one daffodil brichardi. (hopes of adding more, depending of coarse if this is a good mix)<from Matt Pederson on A. Calvus and others in the grouping " (A. calvus "Black", A. compressiceps , etc...) are in the 20+ tank range. In all types, the females are about 1/2 to 1/3 the size of the males. Shells are an essential decoration in tanks housing these fish, as the females often take refuge deep inside them where the males are too large to reach. These fish feed on invertebrates, although there have been many reports that they will also consume small fish, such as Cichlid fry. These fish are very aggressive towards each other, although they tend to leave other tankmates alone. They usually form pairs and spawn in the shells, although they may practice polygamy if an excess of females is present in the tank." and here is some info on your brichardi "Chalinochromis - hails from Lake Tanganyika. Similar to Julidochromis. They are a micro predator, and monogamous substrate spawners. 20 gallons + is usually adequate. They are pretty peaceful."> I'm finding that the calvus are not as aggressive feeders, any tips? <Depends on what you have tried. Freshwater mysids??> Also thinking of adding some more Altolamprologus types, (possibly the "gold head" comp.) Good idea? <Again, based on the various trusted sources they Altolamprologus species can be very aggressive to each other. Be aware that some fish may no show any physical signs of aggression but still be bullied and harassed> I've tried doing research as much as possible on the net, but with only limited info on these calvus, such as water qualities and diets. <www.cichlidrecipe.com is my favorite and most trusted source but I also like http://www.cichlids.com/info/Fish_Index_Lake_Tanganyika Also look through a few forums as well>Do I need shells for breeding? <for Tanganyikans it is recommended> What are differences in male and female? <Mmmmmm.....not sure but probably same as other cichlids, the coloring and size to start but the true way to sex male from female is the venting method. Do search on it on our site as I have described this method a few time before. You could also search the internet for picture showing the difference between various species.> I know that the juveniles are more white and turn black for the black calvus, but how do I know for sure if mine are white or black calvus, (despite what my pet store has told me)? <Venting> What should I use for a scavenger/algae eater? <Lophiobagrus cyclurus "Tanganyika Black Cat" or Phyllonemus typus "Moustache Cat"> Thank-you for an excellent source for a great hobby! <Good luck and happy holidays! ~Paul

Aragonite- An African Cichlid Aquarium Substrate?
Hey Guys,
<Hey! Scott F. here today!>
Yet again, great site and thanks in adv. for the great advice.
<Thanks for the kind words!>
I have a 45 Gal. that use to be Africans. I was going to go FOWLR in this tank but I feel that I lack the time and discipline for this tank, therefore I have decided to go back to Africans in this tank for now, and maybe next year do a FOWLR in a 90 Gal.  With this said, I have purchased some supplies for the FOWLR that I would like to use for the Africans.  Mainly the 40lbs of live aragonite.  Can this be used for the Africans?  I would like to have a deeper bed in the African's tank so can I mix this with crushed coral?
<I don't see why not. Aragonite offers many benefits, in terms of minerals and buffering capability, which can benefit an African Cichlid tank, too..>
For that matter, is this type of substrate a good pick for cichlids?  Is there any added advantage or disadv. ...buffer?
<As above...with hard-water-loving African cichlids- should be fine.>
Will the whiter color be a problem with non-RO water?
<I don't see that as a problem...>
Will the Africans feel comfortable or react to this substrate?
<I'm sure that most of them won't pay it any real notice...I wouldn't be overly concerned about its use...>
I appreciate if you could clue me in with your opinions on this topic.  Thanks Again,  Randy
<My pleasure, Randy! Regards, Scott F.>

African Cichlid behavior - 10/14/03
Hi, <Helloooooo>
I have a 55g African cichlid tank set up for a year with about 15 fish, most around 3". <Uh.......too many fish in my opinion, friend>  I'm not sure all the exact species; I know I have a bumblebee, two chipokas, a brichardi, a jewel, <African right?> a rusty, <A typically aggressive fish. Iodotropheous sprengerae> an auratus, a Kenyi, a red peacock, <Careful this fish will end up the loser if a war breaks out between the Tropheus species> a Haplochromis, <Usually a very large adult fish> and several varieties of zebra types, some male-female pairs. <Aggressive> They are doing fantastically well; aragonite substrate, lava rock and former marine "live rock" host lots of beneficial bacteria.  Ammonia and nitrite are zero, Ph about 8 and temp is 75. <All good there>
The male of one pair of zebra types (gorgeous mottled blue and black on a gold background) has gotten very high strung and more aggressive toward all other fish in the tank; <No surprise here. They (African cichlids) typically are very aggressive when they meet sexual maturity> he has staked out a territory near the center of the tank and has burrowed a cave in the aragonite and piled up a 6" mountain nearby, one mouthful at a time. <Again, nothing new here> He seems less aggressive toward his same-species mate (?), <Mmmmmm. Not sure..... They usually beat the hell out of the females while chasing to mate. I guess it is possible for them to try and entice the female to the breeding nest without being aggressive.> who seems to hang around near this cave.  They do a lot of twitching at each other (the male does more), <Do they circle (chase tail) just above the nest? Likely they are copulating> which I understand is mating behavior. <You would be correct, but I have seen this male against male occasionally.> The other fish seem less active than in the past and stay in the fringes of the tank. <Because they are getting "rocked" (not a technical term....I know) every time they move within a range of the nest. This is natural behavior and I would expect more of it as other fish start to scrap for what is left of the territory. You are shortly going to have an all out war on your hands soon, my friend>
Here's my question: I'm not sure what to do. <Get rid of a lot of your fish, in my experience> Can they breed in this community tank of Africans? <Possible>  Is there anything I could/should do to either promote or inhibit this? <Species only tank? Otherwise there is a great website on African Cichlids: www.cichlidrecipe.com Do some research about your inhabitants (species) and aggression dispersal> It would be VERY difficult to catch any of these fish without tearing apart everything in the tank; <May need to be done if needed right??> there are lot of good hiding places. <Hiding places are good only if not within or near territorial boundaries set up by the other inhabitants in the tank.>  What suggestions do you have? <Jeff, I think the best possible solution is to pick your favorite couple of fish and the rest should...well....go. I have a ninety gallon tank, Hap and Aulonocaras of different colors (a total of 5 adult fish) that is it. Again, in a ninety gallon tank and there is still a great amount of aggression. Just be aware of it. Breeding should be the least of your worries right now, mate. It really is the best advice I can offer. Thanks for the question -Paul>
Thanks,
Jeff

African Cichlid response - 10/15/03
Thanks Paul, for your insight. <No problem> I too was questioning why the female of the apparent pair was not getting as badly beat up as I thought she would, and you concur with the same question. <Well, may be getting beat up, but just not noticeable. Watch for aggressive chasing and bashing. May happen when you are not in the room or even at night. Still very stressful. One will eventually lose out>
Thanks for your tip on overpopulation. <Not so much a tip, but a reality my friend>  When I set this tank up under the guidance of a store specializing in cichlids, I was told 12 to 15 fish would diffuse aggression. <In a 55 gallon?? I rest my case>  Seemed like a large number to me, but I went with it; I just made sure to filter the tank well (Emperor 400 plus lots of lava and formerly "live" rock for bacteria hosting) <I wouldn't rely on this as being filter media per se. When a tank is overstocked it is overstocked> and do a 10% water change weekly. <For this many fish I would be doing 15% to 20% weekly> Obviously things have been fine till now, the water quality is great and they are exhibiting healthy behavior. <Uh....>
I have been watching it carefully and after your comments will be ready to act as soon as your warning begins to come true, which you seem to feel is inevitable. <OK> I'm not surprised.  Having  densely populated tank of such interesting and good-looking fish is too good to be true! <Not true. You just need to be sure that they are like and compatible inhabitants with a foundation based on habitat. Be objective, Jeff. You can have a tank with beautiful fish as long as fish types that would not normally cross paths in each other's territory are in the same confined space. Maybe set up two tanks with two different biotopes. I would love to go into it, but alas, there is a lack of time. I would start looking into writings from Ad Konings to start. In any event, research is the key. There are a great many who have kept these fish before you or I that offer their accounts at various clubs and forums as well as books and websites. What did you think of www.cichlidrecipe.com? I love that site. Good luck -Paul>

A Sweet New Setup
> Hi, <Hello! Ryan with you>
> My name is Jeff. I am new to the hobby. <Welcome!> I am at work now but
came across your website. <Shhhh....I'm at work too.>  I love your articles
and reasons behind what you say.  I have visited lots of sites and forums
and everyone has different answers.  I gravitate towards your knowledge and
I hope you can pass some my way.
> I have a 200-gallon tank. Can you help me in setting up the best filter
setup? The dimensions are 60ins L x 24 ins W x 30 ins D.
>
> I was planning on using 2- Ac 500 and a filstar-XP3 .I saw that you said a
wet dry or Fluidized sand filter would be better?  What size sump and pump
would you recommend? For heating I was going to get either an EBO Jager or
Visi-Therm
> A rare earth magnet- hammer float for cleaning the glass.
> I was looking to set up an under gravel jet system to prevent dead spots.
> Two Maxi Jet 1200 for added circulation
> I have 80 lbs. of crushed coral.
> For decoration I was planning on buying   Lava rock
> What would be the right mix of colourful cichlids that will get along in a
tank my size; and how many can I put in.
> Thanks
> <Jeff- Great tank!  200 gallons is the perfect amount of space for
cichlids.  It's great to see someone new jump on in, most simply get their
feet wet.  Cichlids, while generally very hardy, thrive in good water
quality.  I encourage you to select a good beginner's fish.  If you want a
monster in your tank, try a Dovii.  As for color, African cichlids stand
out.  You could easily house a community of cichlids from Lake Malawi, or go
with a few larger fishes.  I am particular to Cyphotilapia frontosa, from
the deep waters of Lake Tanganyika.  You could easily house 2-3 females and
1 male.  Recently. I have seen a few bred for even more dynamic colors.  I
recommend checking out: http://www.aquatiqterrors.com, a great sounding
board for cichlid info.
> As for filtration, I've found that a nice size wet/dry in addition to a
regular water change schedule is best.  Skip the undergravel filter.  Try a
Wet/Dry rated for 250+ gallons, should be rated 750 gph or more.  Combine
this with a 10% weekly water change, and you're golden.  Best of luck! Ryan>
> Jeff

Sweet new setup pt. 2
Hi Ryan,
I forgot to mention. I was offered the following for sale:
Steven Taiwan colony (G1) Group of 7(4 inch) $175  <Beautiful!  A wonderful colony of Africans.  Not sure about the pricing in your area, but I would certainly check out internet sellers as well.>
Tom Herman Fluidized Bed Fluidized bed, 40 gal sump, Grundfos pump, and all
fittings.$550.00 excellent condition and working order. The pump supposedly
outputs around 990GPH. I did some research and people were concerned with
the sand .  What is your opinion?  <Wet/Dry is a much more simple and debatably effective way of filtration.  Keep it simple, and you'll enjoy it more.  Best of luck! Ryan>
Thanks. Jeff

Sandstone?
Hey guys...long time no speak. how are ya all ???
<Great! Thanks for asking! Ryan with you>
Anyway my question is this, and it's on the subject of rocks and buffering the PH.
<OK>
Where I live our water straight out the tap is around PH 6.7, I'm planning on having a kind of large rock as a center piece in the tank, and I know Limestone is good as it helps with the buffering slightly.  But I was wondering would it be safe to use Sandstone in a Mbuna tank, I don't know if it would make the water Alkaline, Acidic or worse still toxic...could you assist me please....
<Raymie, it's a bad idea to use large sedimentary rocks in a captive system.  They often fall apart, creating a mess.  It can also create unnatural wear and tear on that hard earned equipment!  Save yourself the headache.  Good luck! Ryan>
many thanks
Raymie

New Setup- Which filter?
CRAIG-FROM CRAIG <Ryan, actually>
        Lets hope great names and great minds work well together. <Sure>
        I have just purchased a new never set up never drilled 300
48"x48"x30" PLEXIGLAS with built-in overflow box.
        I am going to use this show tank for African Cichlids. <Sounds sweet>
        I would like to run this system with the support equipment under it
in a built in cabinet space. <Sounds good>
        What is the most reasonable route to take in order to effectively
filter etc without putting me into bankruptcy? <A large wet dry filter shouldn't be too pricey.  May be able to cut costs by building it yourself: http://www.ozreef.org.  For a tank of this size, make sure you get a large sump to accommodate it!  Good luck-Ryan>
        Thanks Craig

Cycling freshwater
Hello,
<Hey! Ryan with you today!>
Right now I have a fully cycle and healthy marine tank. <Great>
I want to start a new one but for Tanganyika guys. <Sounds fun>
May I use some sand, water and filter media to speed up the cycle period? <Better to start fresh, with a clean slate. No magic shortcut here, I'm afraid.  Just give the tank a good substrate such as dolomite or crushed coral (may help naturally buffer pH).  Africans dig, and will need plenty of room to allow for this.  Consider borrowing a handful of substrate from another healthy African tank.>
Can the "good" bacteria adapt from saltwater to freshwater? <No, I'm sorry.  Too many potential problems arise.  Just patience and control.>
Thanks a lot.
<Sure, lots of great info on Africans of all sorts.  Read up!  It'll be a great advantage in the long run.  Until next time, Ryan>
Rodrigo.

Tropheus duboisi
Hi, Quick question hope you have time to answer:
Basically I got six duboisi in a standard 200 litre tank, lots of rocks is that going to work or will I have major problems?<found a link that had a ton of info on this species. http://www.gcca.net/index.htm?content=/fom/Tropheus_duboisi.htm, hope this helps you, IanB>

Re: Cichlids and Live plants
Are there any plants other than for swords (ruffled, and chain) that you can keep with these fellas? Africans that is.
<Anubias is a good one for African Cichlid tanks. It’s a hard, broad leaf plant that they don’t chew on much (if any). But no matter what you put in there, they are still probably going to dig it up! *G*>
Thanks guys
<You're welcome! Ronni>

Re: pH is dropping!
I have an 80 gallon tank with African cichlids and have lava rock as hiding places for them.  I measured the ph in the tank and was really surprised to find out that the ph was 6.3 instead of 7.5 to 8.2 and was wondering if the lava rock will lower the ph that much.  
<Generally a pH drop like that happens when the water hasn’t been changed in a while. The longer a tank runs without water changes, the lower the pH will get. Lava rock shouldn’t drop it like that.>
I plan on adding Seachem Malawi Victoria buffer to raise the ph but was concerned about ph shock.  The Malawi Africans that are in there are healthy along with some babies and I was also wondering if I should let things go or go ahead and add the above buffer.
<Rather than adding a chemical at this point, see if you can gradually bring it up with water changes. Chemical fixes are only going to be short term solutions. But whichever way you go, the pH should be brought up gradually, not all at once. Ronni>

Re: dying Cichlids
Help!!!   
Now that I started I'm more confused then before.   Anyways here’s where I stand now.  I went to the local pet store looking for Cichlids salts.  I was directed to "Kent" AF cichlid chemistry and AF cichlid rift lake trace elements.  On the directions for the cichlid chemistry it said I should test the GH of the water so I bought a GH and KH test kit.  My GH came out to 240 mg/l (ppm) which from what I can figure out is 13.4 dGH.  The container says "using this product, adjust the hardness to desired levels for the type of fish" and it shows for 7Dgh for Malawi.  (Here’s a quick recap of my fish I have a 66 gal tank with African cichlids. Currently I have 4 electric blues, 5 red top zebras, and down to 2 nkali, and one unidentified orangish colored fish, and of course 1 Plecostomus. Tank temperature is 79 degrees).  So according to this product my GH is twice what it should be.  Is this correct?  My KH came out to 120mg/l which my test kit says is high.  Unless I’m misunderstanding this whole thing I should not add the AF cichlid chemistry.
<Nope, these are not the right products. I’ve actually never heard of these but I generally don’t use the Kent line myself.>
Now I’m wondering about the AF rift lake trace elements product.  Should I be using this?  It suggests using the other products first then to "use this product weekly to maintain trace mineral levels which can be depleted by fish and plants and by carbon, resin, and pad filtration."
<Nope, this isn’t it either.>
Is any of this what you were referring to when you suggested I buy salt for the cichlids?  It’s the only product they had.  
<The one I had in mind was Cichlid Lake Salt by Seachem. I know for sure that Dr’s Foster & Smith carry it because I happen to have one of their catalogs handy but I’m sure many other distributors also have it. It should work the best for what you need.>
Should I be concerned with lowering my GH and if so how?  
<Should be fine but watch to make sure it doesn’t go up much when you add salt>
There were no other salt related products for Cichlids at all in the store.
<Doesn’t surprise me. Many stores don’t carry this since it’s more of a specialized item. I wish more of them would, I think it would save a lot of Cichlids in the long run.>
Thank you once again for your help
<You’re welcome>
Ron
PS. I bought them bloodworms and they do seem to enjoy them.  pH is back up to 8 after adding the crushed coral.
<Great! When you can, try some of the New Life Spectrum Cichlid pellets. They should really like those too.>

Re: African cichlids and salt
Hi Crew - what's the deal with 'replicating' rift lake conditions by adding marine salt?  I thought it was getting a rep. as a likely cause of 'Malawi bloat', as it's a totally chemically inappropriate way of raising pH and hardness to desired levels.  If you want to do it cheap, at least use baking soda, but I can't help feeling NaCl is a bad way to go. We have the softest water you can imagine here, but I never here anyone moan about 'bloat' - it only seems to happen to people who are actively 'fighting' it with Instant Ocean or whatever. Cheers, Wayne Oxborough
<Greetings Wayne! I fully agree that marine salt is not the best way to replicate the conditions that Cichlids are normally from. Purchasing a specific Rift Lake or Cichlid salt is the best way to go to achieve these results. Marine salt is formulated for a different type of fish completely and regular aquarium salt isn’t quite right either as it won’t affect the hardness, just the salinity. Baking soda isn’t going to give the complete desired result either, it will make your Ph go up but does nothing to replicate the salt content that these fish should have. I do think people are slowly beginning to realize this as the African Cichlids become more popular and as more people buy direct from breeders who give them good advice rather than some of the fish stores who don’t carry the right products but want to make a sale anyway. Ronni>

Re: Use of live rock in fresh water?
I have set up a 120g reef system with refugium and sump.  I used about 110lb live rock.  I have about 20-25 lb live rock left over, fully cured for a few weeks in salt water.   Ammonia and Nitrite in the water used to cure the live rock are zero.  Can I use it "as is" in an established 55g African Cichlid tank with an aragonite substrate?  Or must I re-cure it in fresh water?  
<Putting this into freshwater is going to kill all of the little critters on it and make it just normal rock but if it’s what you want in your tank you will need to re-cure it with freshwater before adding it to the tank. My suggestion though would be to trade it back in to your LFS and get some plain rock to be used in your Cichlid tank. You’ll be able to get a lot more FW rock (or other things you need) for the price of this live rock.>
The water in the cichlid tank is weakly salted, not really brackish; I add a tablespoon of sea salt for each weekly 5g water change.  
<Just remember that this is gradually going to change your salt content unless the salinity of the new water is the same as the water you’re removing.>
Cichlids are doing great.
<Very good. Cichlids are beautiful fish. I’ve been considering starting another Cichlid tank myself. Ronni>
Jeffrey M. Zegas

Re: Huge Tilapia Tank
Hi,
I found your website is very interesting and I have a few problems about fish care that bother me. First, I have a tank that takes 5000 gallon water. How many fish shall I keep in the tank? What is maximum capacity? My fish is tilapia.
<Wow, what a tank! Really, the number of Tilapia you can keep will depend on the species. The different ones can range from an adult size of just a couple of inches to over 2 feet. There’s lots of info on them at both www.wetwebmedia.com (use the Google search box) and www.fishbase.org >
I have encountered a chlorine toxicity incidence and I'm kind of paranoid to top up the tank up with tap water. As a result, my tank is murky. Is there any solution to this problem? I do remove the fish faeces by the siphoning system but is the dissolved
ammonia/nitrate/nitrite (from the faeces) will still contribute to the alkalinity of the water in the tank? Is there any anti-ammonia/nitrite/nitrate treatment e.g. the anti chlorine?
<There are no chemical additives that I would recommend; regular water changes are the best. Use bottled or RO water instead of tap water. With that size tank, you will probably be best to buy yourself an RO system, in the long run it will be cheaper than buying the water.>
Thank you Shirley
<You’re welcome! Ronni>

Re: water chemistry for cichlids
Thank-you for the fast reply!  I have been researching all day again ..
learning more and more, getting more excited for my new tank.  I have
decided I am going to try a Malawi cichlid tank.
<Very nice>
I have just couple more questions for now.
If I set up the tank with the water chemistry listed and assume that the PH
once stabilized will be in the 8-8.4 range, what happens when I do water
changes weekly with my tap water at a 7.4-7.6 range?
<If you store the water, aerate and heat it before use, it will be about the same pH. This is what I would do... if you can get, use a large covered trash can (my fave is Rubbermaid's "Brute") and fill it every week, heat it, circulate with an airstone or better, a powerhead (so you can use it to move the water to your tank), and change no more than about 25% of your water after gravel vacuuming it>
Will this affect my
fish in terms of PH difference?  Or better stated, how much water percentage
wise could I change each week without the PH difference harming my fish?
Also, when adding salt to the tank, is there test kits for testing this, how
much do you have to add, and how often?
<A few approaches here. Yes, you can use a relatively crude hydrometer... or other density or salt-measuring devices, or simply just be diligent about how much you "replace" with water changes by the volume of water changed out. Bob Fenner>
Thanks as always!!
Jesse

Re: water chemistry for cichlids
Hi,  
I have a couple of questions on some test values for my water.  I am in the planning phases of purchasing a 110-140 gallon aquarium, and think I might have ideal water for a cichlid tank.  I did some testing last night, and after reading that PH will change from the tap after being dechlorinated and oxygenated, I decided to test the three following:  straight from my tap, my current 10 gallon community setup, and water stored in closed bottles in a closet for one week for the purpose of water changes in my 10 gallon.  Here are the results:  
        TAP                                                     10 Gal. Aquarium                                                Closet water
        
   GH - 30 degrees                                      GH - 20 degrees                                                  GH - 25
   KH - 17 degrees                                      KH - 20 degrees                                                   KH - 17
   PH - 7.4                                                 PH - 8.4                                                               PH - 7.6

My questions are as follows:  
1.  What makes the PH be so much higher in my current setup?
<The aeration of the tapwater, and possibly some higher pH decor, rock, substrate in the system contributing to this>
And can I assume that this will also happen in my new setup, therefore benefiting a cichlid tank?
<Yes>
2.  Unless I am mistaken (which happens quite often!), as far as hardness and buffering capacity, I would be in excellent shape for cichlids?
<Well, depends on the types/species of cichlids. The family includes animals like Discus, Dwarf South American Cichlids, Juraparoids and more that appreciate soft, acidic water...>
3.  Can water be TOO hard for cichlids?
<Yes. It's mainly the Malawi and Tanganyika cichlids that require/enjoy very hard water>
4.  If my PH remained the same from tap to new setup at 7.4-7.6, is this ok for Malawi species?
<Yes>
5.  What other factors do I need to consider in terms of water chemistry with my test values?
<Salt content principally. There are products (my fave, Mardel Labs) that add these salts back into "plain" freshwater>
Thank-you so much for all the valuable info your team provides .. I have learned more in the past two weeks about aquatics from this site then I thought I would EVER know!
Jesse
<Much more to go. Enjoy the learning, sharing. Bob Fenner>

Coral rock for African Cichlid tanks
bob I was wondering how long does this coral rock need to cure or if in
fact it has to cure at all...
<No need to cure... if it's clean, air-dried, just rinse off and place>
I washed the rock very good with water but I noticed that my salinity went
way up is this normal
<No... strange that so much material should go into solution as to change the density of the water. Bob Fenner>

Converting SW to FW (African)
Dear Bob,
I first have to tell you that I enjoy visiting your site very much - a lot of detailed information is always educational for me.
<Thank you for this note>
I currently have a 45 Gallon FOWLR tank that is set up for about a year. After realizing that SW is not for me, I am thinking about converting it to Malawi tank. I thought this is a brilliant idea (pat on my shoulder) because right now, I have crushed corals as substrate and live rocks which are all designed to bring up the hardness of water, which Malawians likes. Yes, I am planning to use even the live rocks for my African tank - would this be a problem ? 
<Shouldn't be a problem... after cleaning up a bit... perhaps a slight bleach/acid wash to remove most of the biota. See here re a suggested protocol: http://wetwebmedia.com/clnornart.htm> 
Some think it's a waste of money, but I think since the water parameter is going to be somewhat similar, the same beneficial bacteria will stay on/in the live rocks even after the conversion. Do you foresee a big problem with this ?
<Different microbes... better to sacrifice them in a complete cleaning... other ones will repopulate the nooks and crannies here quick enough>
Thank you and best regards,
Takeshi Toda
<Be chatting my friend. Bob Fenner>

Water clarity, lighting, UV questions (FW)
Robert,
I found your name off-line and I wanted to ask you a question in regards to my lighting in my aquarium. I have a 150 gallon tank (standard size) with an assortment of African Cichlids. I'm trying to get some more clarity in my water and I don't know what I should do? 
<Mmm, a few approaches, likelihood's here...>
I have two large filters running, so I know that that's not the problem. 
<Might still be... do you measure parameters of water quality... like accumulation of nitrogenous compounds like nitrates? How about using chemical filtrants? Like periodic use of activated carbon in your filter flow path... this can really help water color, clarity and fish health wise... What about your maintenance procedures. Most African Cichlid systems do best with periodic substantial water changes, gravel vacuuming... What sorts of foods, feeding practices do you employ?...>
I have one row of two lights that came with the tank, they aren't performing as well as I would like them to. My local fish supplier said that I should add a row of white lights and a row of blue lights (which would give me my 2:1 ratio of white to blue).
<Hmm, "blue lights" like actinics? With Africans?>
This would cost me around $250 with the housings if I went that route. Do you recommend any other alternatives?
<I would look into either compact fluorescents here or VHO types... much more info. on our site (www.WetWebMedia.com) re these issues and the science behind them. Please read from here and beyond: http://wetwebmedia.com/lightfxtagb.htm
Including the sections on Marine Lighting (same technology)>
What are the advantages of having a U.V. stabilizer, and what size would be appropriate?
<A UV sterilizer? Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marphysf.htm>
Thank you for your time.
Jon Lugenbill
<Thank you for your involvement, sharing. Bob Fenner>

African Cichlid Salt
Hi,
I really enjoy the site. I use SeaChem's lake rift salt for my cichlids.
<Good product>
When I make water changes I add the a lot amount on the bottle to the new
water. I was wonder through evaporation and the adding of more salt water
will I get a unacceptable high salinity in my tank over time?
<Yes... only replace/add the amount of product for the volume of water you're replacing... It stays in solution. Bob Fenner>

African Cichlid
First off I would like to say I really enjoy the site. 
<Ah, glad to find this is so>
I have just
started (2 weeks now) a 62 gallon cichlid tank with 8 one inch assorted lake
M cichlids. 
<You're inspiring me to "get on" with writing, placing the huge amount of material/short pieces in the African Cichlid section of WWM...>
The ph, and ammonia levels are great. The nitrates are high
25mg/l. Should I make small water changes until this is fixed?
<Mmm, maybe... but other approaches would likely be more satisfying, homeostatic (constant) and automatic. Do you intend to culture any plants in this system? Perhaps in a tied-in sump tank with its own lighting?...>
will that
harm the colony of bacteria I am trying to foster? 
<Not likely... at this point... but only experience, trial will tell. I would just wait at this point, be very careful about over-feeding, placing much in the way of livestock.>
I know the bacteria
changes ammonia to nitrates, but is a water change the only way to get rid
of nitrates?
<Oh no, assuredly not. Please read through this FAQs section on nitrates. Though on marine systems, the same principles apply: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/no3probfaqs.htm
and the links beyond. Bacterial denitrification can be urged on, uptake by plants/algae, export through chemical filtrants, water changes as you state... many possibilities>
My tank is also still very cloudy when will this go away. 
<A few days to a couple of weeks>
I
think that this algae cloud may feed off the nitrates. Would a product
like cycle help the nitrate situation? 
<Yes. But just time going by will accomplish the same ends>
If I should make small water
changes how often can I do them? After all this water cycle business I
have become somewhat interested in it what books do suggest on the subject.
<Read this bit on cycling a system as well: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/estbiofiltmar.htm
Be chatting. Bob Fenner>

Re: African Cichlid
Thanks for the help. I guess I just need more patience's. Do the sell that
I at the fish store?
<If you and I could bottle such we'd be bizillionaires! Be chatting. Bob Fenner>

Protein Skimmers
Excuse me Robert, I have a quick question. A person on the message board I talk on asked this question:
I have a protein skimmer left over from my saltwater tank, and I was just wondering it would do anything beneficial to my freshwater African setup (kind of a dumb question-but it's collecting dust so I figured why not ask and find out) . It's a SeaClone.
I have no idea and would like to know myself!
Thanks,
John Thompson
<Likely a skimmer won't do much in the way of actual foaming here, but still a useful tool for increasing gas exchange, improving Redox... I would try running it if I had it. Bob Fenner>
Aquarist
Aquariust's Den - http://aquariust.cjb.net
The Aquacultured Reef - http://aquaculturedreef.cjb.net

PLEASE HELP ME WITH MY 55 GAL. FISH TANK (African Cichlids)
Robert,
I have recently purchased a 55 gal. aquarium and need some help on setting it up. At the time I have 4 (2"-3")African Cichlids in a 20 gal. long tank. I am debating on how much filtration I need. What would you recommend if money doesn't matter and what would you recommend if money does matter?
<For filtration: Two good sized hang on the back outside power filters... maybe by Tetra, Marineland, Hagen... I would add an airstone, pump, check-valve, tubing for added aeration... For stocking: perhaps a few more complimentary African Cichlids, a Synodontis Catfish... If they'd go, a small grouping of larger African Tetras. The Catfish and some of the Tetras have input about them on WetWebMedia.com>
I have read that you can overstock an African Cichlid tank. How many African Cichlids do you think I should keep in my tank? 
<Depending on species, six or eight>
Should I over stock it? 
<Some folks do, hoping the crowding will cut down, cancel aggression... Not to be (too) anthropomorphic, but does this sound like a good idea... for humans? You might be "less aggressive" if crowded together with other people... does this make you happier?>
If so, how much extra filtration would I need? I also would like for some of my fish to breed too. Any helpful tips allowing my fish to breed quickly? 
<Investigate their specific (species) husbandry in books, through bulletin boards, chatforums on the Net (ours: http://talk.wetwebfotos.com/) hobby clubs having to do with cichlids, local cichlid "guru" hobbyists (there are many), national and international cichlid groups for information... Likely lots of rock/hiding spaces, particular hard, alkaline water, frequent water changes, good feeding... almost all will spawn readily in captivity>
What is an African Cichlids ripe age to reproduce, or how big do they have to get before they will reproduce?
<Depends on species>
How often should I clean my tank? 
<Once a week is good to wipe down in and out, change some water>
What kind of food should I feed them? Will they eat live food? 
<Again, depends on species...>
Do you now of anyways to help bring out there vibrant colors? 
<All I mentioned above>
How would you do some aquascaping to this type of tank set-up. Any additional information will greatly help. This is only my second tank I have ever set up.
Please respond A/S/A/P
Thank you,
Chris Develli
<Look into buying, borrowing Paul Loiselle's popular "Tetra Books" on African Cichlids... you will greatly enjoy, benefit from their reading. Bob Fenner>

Plant Refugium for African Cichlids
1.) I love the site!
<Thank you!>
2). I have a 60 gallon African Cichlid Tank with a trickle filter. I would like to add a tied in sump tank to culture plants (it was suggested once in a previous email from Mr. Fenner). I was thinking about adding 10 gallon plant sump that would feed from and return to my 10 gallon sump water that has been filter and about to be pumped to the main tank. I was wondering:
What plant would be easy hardy plants to put in this system (cheap is good too)?
<Java Fern, Java Moss, Anubias, and many others. Do check out the Plant Subweb for additional information.>
Can I light it 24/7?
<No, but could cycle several "days" inside one real 24 hour day to stabilize the tank. You can use 6 hours on, 6 off, 6 on, and 6 off to gain the benefits on nearly 24/7 lighting.>
Should I have a substrate and what kind?
<Seachem Fluorite is nice.>
Will this 10 gallon plant sump materially improve water quality (nitrates)?
<Yes>
Do you see any problems?
<No>
Thanks, Rusty
<You are welcome. -Steven Pro>

African Cichlid Tank
I have a African Cichlid tank and two questions.
1. I use Seachem's Lake salt should I use a trace element product too?
<I love the Seachem salt for Africans. No need for the trace element stuff, though. You should also be using a buffering compound.>
2. Lighting: Usually, I have the aquarium lights on from 9 to 9 is that to much?
<Sounds fine.>
Thanks I love the site.
<Glad to have been of assistance. -Steven Pro>

Raising the pH Naturally
I currently have water that my Mbuna cichlids absolutely love. As a matter of fact I pull it straight out of the tap and do nothing else. It's well water don't ya know. Anyhow, I am moving to city water that is 7.1 as opposed to the 8.2 I enjoy now. Is there a way to raise the ph of the water up to around 8.2 naturally. By that I mean without adding buffer or something to that effect. I understand that between Aragonite Sand and crushed Coral as a substrate I might get it up to around 7.5, but how do I get it up around .6-.8 more? By the way it is a 125 gallon tank.  If it matters I have the following fish.
Labidochromis Caeruleus-3
Ps. johanni-2
Ps. demasoni-2
Ps. flavus-2
Ps. polit-2
Ps sp. Msobo-2
Ps. zebra-OB marmalade-5 (I think it is the right species)
Maylandia Greshakei-2
Thanks for any help or advice. Charles
<The easiest, safest way is going to be with a buffering compound. I like Seachem's buffer and salt for African cichlids. -Steven Pro>

African Cichlids 
Bob,
<Steven Pro this evening.>
I have recently encountered a problem with my cichlid tank. My fish seem to be dying off one by one. There are no parasites that I know of in the tank and the pH is at 7.6. The water temperature stays at 78-80 and the light is left on for around 8-10 hours a day.
<Is this tank newer? Have you tested for the presence of ammonia or nitrite?>
I talked with local fish stores and they told me to add salt to my tank (20 gallon tank), 1 teaspoon for every gallon.
<That is good for cichlids, but a 20 gallon tank is not going to work for these aggressive fish.>
I did this and it still didn't work. I have 2 Kenyi's, 2 elec. yellows, 1 Placidachromis Milomo, and 2 Copadichromis Borleyi, 1 Pleco, 1 rainbow shark still alive in the tank. I have lost 3 Kenyi's, 1 Elec yellow. These fish were not all in the tank at the same time. When I would lose one I would add what I lost. I am at a lost for what to do.
<I get the feeling this is a relatively new tank, less than six months since you set it up and not cycled completely.>
I change the water regularly (once a month) and have good filtration with 2 Millennium 3000 filters. The fish act healthy until the day of death in which the stay at the bottom and go from side to side fighting to stay straight in the water. If you could please help me before I lose all my fish I would greatly appreciate it. My last resort would be to dispose of all fish and start over from start. I hope I don't have to do this.
<Please do not add any more fish and see here http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwtips4beginners.htm for tips, following on through the linked files for additional enlightenment. -Steven Pro>

pH 
I have another question? What is a good ph range for African Cichlids. And what ph do the mostly around
<Mmm, most of the ones commonly kept (Mbunas, Haplochromines) hail from the Great Lakes (Tanganyika, Malawi)... prefer high pH (upper sevens are a good bet)... some of the riverine species ("Kribs") prefer more neutral water... If you have some idea of the common and/or scientific names, try plugging them into fishbase.org where you'll find this sort of information for many species.
Bob Fenner>

Taking care of Cichlids 
Hello,
I have two Socolofi, Red Zebra, Bumble Bee, and Kenyi Cichlids; along
with
one Algae Eater in a two foot tall thirty gallon octagon tank.
<This is a very small "world" for these fishes>
They are
getting along quite fine. 
<For now... with growth, troubles here... You and they will want larger quarters... or fighting, damage will ensue>
I am new to raising tropical fish. When I
got my
water tested, the employee said, she has never seen tap water so
perfect.
<What is "perfect"? For what sorts of livestock? What parameters? Readings?>
My
questions are as follows:
What is an appropriate temperature for them?
<Upper seventies Fahrenheit for maintenance>
I am worried about cleaning my tank.
<Why?>
I can't tell the males from the females.
<Time to study my friend. Do look into African Cichlid books (perhaps the nice primers by Paul Loiselle and Tetra Press... and use the common names you're familiar with on www.fishbase.org>
FYI, I will be doing some more research on these fish because I want to
make
their time with me enjoyable.
<Do so>
Thank you and God Bless
Ira
<Which? Be chatting my new friend. Bob Fenner>

Taking care of Cichlids (I am just making sure this gets to u)
The living quarters is small... I talked with two different people who work
at pet stores they did not see a problem with the amount I have.
<Much to state here. In brief, Malawi Mbuna can be purposely crowded to discount overt aggression... doing so in larger volumes (double or more your thirty gallons) is better by far... and more "regular" shaped systems are preferable... packed with rock with lots of hiding spaces.>
One of the
workers told me to get as many as I want--I wonder, how much of our
conversation he was actually paying attention to. 
<You list four species, of at least two of one... in a thirty gallon octagon? I hope/trust they are small now... there will be trouble with their growth>
What size tank would you
recommend?
<At least a sixty gallon for what you list. No less than ten-fifteen gallon per individual>
I raised Goldfish for a several years and of course there is a number of
differences between them and Tropical fish. 
<Agreed>
Cleaning wise, with Goldfish,
if one chooses, he or she can clean the entire aquarium out. With Tropical
fish, it's in portions--correct? 
<Mmm, no... both do well with regular water changing, gravel vacuuming... the Africans you can observe almost immediate increase in color, activity from such... with careful observation, the goldfish as well>
I should not clean the entire aquarium
out, but do an exchange? 50 
<Not this much... depending on the quality of your source water, capacity for its pre-treatment, storage, twenty, no more than twenty five percent is a good number to change out on a weekly, bi-weekly basis.>
Thanks for your help,
Ira
<Do look into Cichlid chatforums on the Net... by knowing a bit more your success and enjoyment of the hobby will be greatly amplified. Bob Fenner>

African cichlid tank
hey guys, I'm setting up a 90gal. tank at work and am planning a African cichlid biotope. I have two Synodontis cats for starters and have been offered some various Africans (unknown species-haven't seen yet). I've been told to put as many as 30 fish in this tank to spread aggression! 
<There is some validity to such an approach... either under or overstocking...>
I think this is too much and would like to set the tank up as natural as possible. I have been into saltwater-reef tanks for 10 years and have kind of forgot some of the freshwater basics. How many fish would you suggest for this tank?
<Depends on the species in question... Boulengerochromis approaches three feet in length... some "Julis" (Julidochromis) can be stocked at the above density with other smaller, more easygoing species... My advice is to develop and adhere to either a biotope that is "Lake" dependent (you can use fishbase.org to determine where the species in question hail from), OR a size at purchase, ultimate maximum size way of selecting species from the dark continent, OR a combination of the two selection criteria.>
Also any suggestions on non-cichlids. thanks for all the help Kevin
<Many... if this is a "typical" shaped 90, how about some Characiform fishes from the area for the upper water column? Perhaps some lacustrine Haplos for mid-water? Can you find mastacembelids that are of African origin? How about live plants? Maybe tying together two or more systems with different temperaments, lighting regimens? Bob Fenner>

Africa Cichlid
Hello I have a new tank and its 20 gallon. I currently have 14 African Cichlids in my tank is that to many? 
<Yeeikes, if not now, it will be soon... there are hundreds of species of African Cichlids... some smaller/larger, easier going/very mean... a twenty gallon tank is likely able to house one or two individuals in the long haul. You need, will need a much larger system>
What can I do for cloudy water?
<A few things... depending on the cause/s... likely crowding, overfeeding here... but could be inadequate filtration, circulation, unestablished biological cycling. Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwtips4beginners.htm and beyond on the WetWebMedia.com freshwater subweb.>
Thank you for any help you can give me.
Thanks,
Barbara
<Be chatting, Bob Fenner>

African Cichlid Filtration
Looking to get a very big tank (300+), but want to get all the pieces in place before ordering (want to get it right rather than wish I'd done something else a week after taking possession of the tank!)........ I've read over much of your site..... nice info!.......
I see some conflicting opinions regarding the best filtration, etc. for a large community of Central American Cichlids.... some suggest pond type filtration, some wet/dry, etc...... I guess I really shouldn't have said best as I'm sure there are many viable options, but what do you suggest, specifically?
<It's really up to you, what is going to fit into your space, ease of maintenance, that sort of thing.  I would personally go with a tank that had one or two drilled overflows, and overflow them into a wet/dry filter.  You can make your own wet/dry and sump out of an old aquarium, or purchase a new one. >
Also, I am a bit confused about the "horizontal overflow" you have spoken of on your site..... please describe..... I am assuming some sort of overflow assembly will be the best way to move water to whatever filtration system I utilize.... would you agree?
<Sorry, you have to buy Anthony's book to get that info.  Just kidding.  From what I understand the horizontal overflow that Anthony describes would be used to get more of the "good stuff" at the surface of your water to overflow to your skimmer to provide better skimming.  The idea would work well on a freshwater tank (minus the skimmer), but would have more of an impact if used in a marine system.  There is an excerpt from Anthony's book of coral propagation regarding he horizontal overflow at the link below
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/circmarfaq3.htm
There is a ton of information on filtration in our marine section at the link below.  Most of the info can be applied to freshwater as well.  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/index.htm  >
Thanks in advance for your help! It's nice to have a source such as WWM!
<Its nice to be able to help.-Gage>