Cichlid comp, lack of detail -- 11/16/2009
Can I put a pair of ram Bolivian cichlids with a pair of convict <cichlids>?
<Short answer is...maybe. If you had a fairly spacious tank with plenty of hiding spaces and broken sightlines, with a pH of 6.5-7.0, it might be possible. Of course, all bets are totally off if the convicts decide to breed. Overall, I wouldn't risk it. Convicts are not on the more aggressive side for cichlids, but rams would nonetheless not be a match for an angry or spawning convict.>
<Will N.>

New FW Tank
Bolivian Rams Stocking Question – 10/20/09
Hi, quick (hopefully easy!) question, how many Bolivian rams would be happy in a 60 gal corner tank? There will be rainbow fish, Corys, tetras as company.
Cheers
< Go with at least six. This will almost guarantee you a pair. If conditions are right they will spawn and you will get to enjoy one of the best things about keeping cichlids.-Chuck>

Re: New FW Tank
Rams In A 60 Gallon Tank  10/22/09
6? Really? Wow, that is more than I was expecting. Is there anything I need to think about with a group like this? Can I expect much aggression between them? If a pair forms will they beat up the others?
< Rams are really more about display that with actual aggression and damage. Once a pair form they will push and chase all other fish away. They hardly ever kill anything.-Chuck>

Re: New FW Tank
Dwarf Cichlids In A 60G FW Tank  10/25/09
Hi again. If I were to go with Apistos instead of Bolivian rams how many would be happy in a 60 gal? What sex ratios should I keep and could I mix different species?
< You could still go with 6. If you were not interested in breeding them then go with 6 males of different species. They will set up territories and defend their space. Very entertaining to watch. You could go with three different pairs too.-Chuck>

Re: New FW Tank
Apistos In a 60G 10/26/09
Hi Chuck, You have advised me that I could have six Apistos in my 60 gallon.
You've suggested 6 males of mixed species or 3 pairs. Do I take it from this variety of options that I basically have 6 Apisto 'slots' that I can fill as I wish? I have done some research and have settled on the following as an attractive assortment of 6 Apistos, could you let me know if they'd work in my 60gal?
1 Male Ap. Cacatuoides
1 Male Ap. Baenschi 'Inka'
2 Female Ap. Baenschi 'Inka'
1 Male Ap. Borellii
I really like the females of Baenschi 'Inka'. Their colours remind me of certain rift valley cichlids. I think the combination of the yellow and black striped female Inkas with the blue-bodied/yellow-faced Borellii would
create an effect not unlike the colourful Malawi set ups (with only a fraction of the aggression I hope!) Do Apistos get on ok with Corys? I hope to have a school of six (bandit, panda or sterbai). I've heard some
cichlids take offense at them and bite out their eyes! Thanks again. Keep up the good work!
< The cacatuoides is one of the largest Apisto while the borellii is one of the smallest. The borellii will probably hide most of the time while the cacatuoides is going to be the dominant cichlid and out most of the time.
Almost all female Apistos will turn yellow when they breed. The Cory's will stumble into the Apistos territory and be chased away. The Apistos may occasionally nip a fin or two on the Cory's.-Chuck>

Compatibility: Bolivian Ram and Rainbowfish  10/12/09
We are commencing to re-stock a 30 gallon community aquarium. It's been stable with a few fancy goldfish for a couple of years, but we are wanting to convert this aquarium to a tropical community. All residents of this tank have now been moved to new homes.
<Very good.>
We are in the habit of regular water changes. We live in the Seattle area of Washington, USA. Our water tends towards softness, I believe.
<Soft can be good for South American and Southeast Asian fish in particular, but you do want a steady pH. A little information here in terms of water chemistry would be useful. But assuming something like pH 6.5-7.5, 5-15 degrees dH, then most community tropicals should do fine, with the obvious exceptions of livebearers, which prefer hard water.>
We have identified Bolivian Rams and Rainbowfish (Red, turquoise, emerald, etc.) as 2 types of fish that we'd definitely like to keep in this
aquarium.
<Rainbows are schooling fish, so keep at least six per species, and preferably equal numbers of males and females to ensure optimal colouration (if you don't have equal numbers of males and females, the males have no reason to colour up properly!). You usually can't sex most Melanotaenia species when young, but some foolish aquarists keeping Glossolepis incisus try to keep just males, and wonder why their fish don't look happy. In any even, a 30-gallon tank will be too small for most Rainbows, the only exceptions commonly traded would be Melanotaenia praecox (the Dwarf Rainbow) and perhaps the Telmatherina ladigesi (Celebes Rainbowfish). This latter species needs neutral, moderately hard water and doesn't like pH levels below 7, so it might not even be an option.>
Are these compatible in the same community?
<Yes. Most Rainbows like neutral, moderately hard water that isn't too warm, and this is optimal for Bolivian Rams, Mikrogeophagus altispinosus.>
If so, what conditions (temperature, PH, etc.) would be best for them?
<7.0-7.5, 10 degrees dH; 24-26 degrees C.>
Also, how many of each of these should we limit ourselves to?
<A pair of Mikrogeophagus altispinosus plus 6-8 Melanotaenia praecox would work fine in a decent length 30 gallon tank (i.e., not some daft hexagon or something, but a long, shallow rectangular tank).>
Can you please recommend other compatible tankmates for this community?
<Wouldn't add anything more to begin with. Possibly some Cherry Shrimps and Nerite Snails as scavengers/algae-eaters, but that's about it. Catfish tend to be harassed in small tanks when kept with Dwarf Cichlids. So while you could certainly add a school of Corydoras aeneus or similar if this was a 55-gallon tank or even perhaps a 40-gallon tank, a 30-gallon system is just too risky. Dwarf cichlids chase the catfish, nip them, even blind them. Not nice. If the tank was properly maintained for six months and there was enough light to get some green algae growing, a school of Otocinclus might be an option, but they're such sensitive fish I'd not recommend them.
Shrimps and Nerite snails are safer, much more effective algae-eaters.>
Thank you,
Jeff
<Cheers, Neale.>

Re: Bolivian Ram and Rainbowfish 10/13/09
Thank you very much for your prompt and highly informative response to my previous questions.
<Most welcome.>
According to the test run at our local aquarium shop, our water has a pH of 7.1 and hardness of 2 degrees dH. Will this be a problem for Bolivian Rams and Rainbowfish?
<Yes. Water this soft, assuming it has a comparatively low carbonate hardness as well, less than 3 degrees KH, tends to be unstable. Do test the carbonate hardness, because this really is critical. Read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWsubwebindex/fwsoftness.htm
I don't recommend relying on shops to do your water tests, by the way. It's a good habit to get a few basic test kits of your own, so you can keep track of water chemistry and water quality.>
Is there anything we need to do to condition our water?
<Quite possibly. If your water has low general hardness (measured in degrees dH) and low carbonate hardness (measured in degrees KH), it will likely be too soft to keep these fish comfortably. One approach is to add limited amounts of Rift Valley Cichlid Salt mix, as described here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWsubwebindex/fwh2oquality.htm
You wouldn't use the full dose, but around a quarter to a half the dose.
Let's say you started with a quarter dose, that'd be 1 teaspoon baking soda, 1 tablespoon Epsom salt, and 1 teaspoon marine salt mix per 20 US gallons.>
Our tank is the long, rectangular 30 gallon variety. We like your suggestion of a pair of Bolivian Rams and 3 pair of Neon Dwarf Rainbows to begin with. Can we add more fish than this eventually?
<Sure.>
If so, would you suggest more Rams or more of the Dwarf Rainbows, or could we add another variety of fish?
<I'd not add more Rams, or they're likely to fight. Certainly, not more males anyway! As for Dwarf Rainbows, yes, a few more is always a plus. The bigger the group, the prettier they look, because they school nicely and show better colours (they're happier!). You might add some Silver Hatchetfish, Pearl Danios or Halfbeaks at the top of the tank.
Alternatively, you could add a retiring catfish like a Bristlenose Plec, but the problem here might be if your cichlids spawn. The catfish would likely be harassed if it didn't have a suitable cave, and conversely, it would eat any eggs.>
Our next questions regard diet and habitat. Are there any special dietary and feeding requirements for either of these 2 species?
<A mix. You can't go far wrong with this: A good quality staple flake or pellet, regular offerings of wet-frozen bloodworms, and occasional treats of things like live daphnia and live brine shrimp.>
For instance, I read somewhere that Rainbows should have some fresh greens such as duckweed occasionally.
<No, not necessary. For one thing, duckweed can easily become a pest.
Rainbows feed primarily on insects that fall onto the surface of the water, as well as zooplankton and small crustaceans.>
Also, I understand that in the wild, most of their diet is live food, so do we need to supplement their flakes with something else?
<I don't recommend you use flake exclusively, if for no other reason than fish get bored with it. All dried foods, whether flakes, pellets, or freeze-dried foods, are also more likely to cause constipation (imagine what would happen if humans just ate beef jerky all the time...).
Wet-frozen foods tend to have a high "ash" content, and this works like fibre.>
And speaking of flakes, I understand that rainbows are surface feeders, so flakes or something that does not sink immediately is best. Is that true?
<They certainly don't want foods that sink right down to the bottom. But they will take food from the surface and from midwater equally happily. If all else fails, ask the retailer to feed the fish in front of you. Whatever they're eating, buy some of that!>
On the other hand, I read that the Bolivian Rams need to be fed a special Cichlid formula. Is this the case?
<Cichlids certainly need a varied diet otherwise become prone to various health issues including Hexamita, Hole-in-the-head, constipation, bloating, and perhaps other things too. Wild Bolivian Rams are substrate sifters -- their Latin name Mikrogeophagus means "little earth eater" -- so what they would do in the wild is take mouthfuls of sand, sift it across their gill rakers, and extract small invertebrates, algae, and bits of organic detritus. In captivity they happily do this, and it's charming to watch. I tend to give my cichlids wet-frozen rather than flake foods, and enjoy watching them sift out the bloodworms or whatever from the sand. It's fun to see. Of course, you might only want to do this a couple times a week, in which case a good quality sinking pellet such as Tetra Min or Hikari Micro Pellet would be a good place to start.>
Will they come up and eat the flakes or do we need to feed some sort of sinking food to the Rams? If so, what do you suggest?
<They won't feed from the surface, no. But they may well eat uneaten flakes that float down to the bottom.>
Regarding habitat, we have 2 or 3 plastic plants and a small cave formed out of a few rocks. We read that the Rams don't like bright light and should have some shade. Will the single cave be enough for the 2 Rams or will they each need their own?
<At least a cave each, ideally more than one.>
Or should there be some sort of special style of plant (such as floating plants) that we need to provide?
<Start with some Java fern and/or Anubias on bogwood roots, and throw some in some Indian Fern and Amazon Frogbit for the floating plants. Easy plants to keep, no need for a substrate (so cheap to grow!), and these will, together, provide plenty of shade.>
Finally, (for now at least) are there any other considerations that we should be made aware of regarding our setup?
<Consider using a thin layer of _smooth_ silica sand (from the garden centre, very cheap) about 1-2 cm deep for the bottom. You'll love watching your cichlids behave naturally, and they'll keep the sand nicely sifted and clean as a bonus. Much prettier than gravel, too.>
Thanks, Jeff
<Cheers, Neale.>

Bolivian Ram compatibility  9/26/09
Hi! Let me just say that all of your advice has been absolutely great! I plan to set up a 16 gallon bow front aquarium with Java fern and Amazon sword plants, along with a small driftwood centerpiece. For lighting, I
will be using A) the light that came with the tank, and B) a full spectrum lamp that will be shining in on an angle (it was not specifically designed for aquariums - will it work?).
<The light shining through the glass? If that's the case, I wouldn't bank on it working: glass cuts out a lot of the light energy.>
They will be on a ten hour timer. My P.h is around 7.5 (I think). I plan on stocking it with fifteen Cardinal tetras, three silver Hatchetfish (moved from another tank), and a Kuhli loach. Is it possible to add a Bolivian Ram (Mikrogeophagus altispinosus) to this set up?
<In theory, yes. The tank is a bit small though. I assume these are 16 US gallons rather than Imperial gallons, so we're talking 60 litres here.
Bolivian Rams are fairly chunky fish. If this was me, I'd perhaps skip them in favour of something smaller but almost as hardy, such as Apistogramma cacatuoides.>
I have this tank specifically for the Cardinals, because my Cardinals always seem to disappear in my 125 gallon tank- Possibly neon tetra syndrome, possibly bullied to death by a convict cichlid defending his territory (Yeah, I know it was a disaster waiting to happen).
<Would put my money on the cichlid, or something else, simply eating them.>
I am determined to keep them alive, so if the Ram will bully them, I can go without it.
<The thing with Cardinals is they swim close to the substrate, and that brings them into the firing line of any territorial cichlids. So while tetras that stay in the top half of the tank make great dither fish for dwarf cichlids, tetras at the bottom of the tank can get into trouble.>
If it would be overcrowded, the Hatchets can be moved into a different tank.
<On the contrary, Marble Hatchets are a good size for this aquarium (Silver Hatchets not so much) and because they stay resolutely at the top of the tank, would be good dither fish.>
Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks! -Jack P.S.- I've looked at quite a few online aquarium supply stores, but can find no Iron for aquarium plants. Any recommendations?
<Wouldn't worry about iron too much. Most any plant fertiliser will contain iron, and used as directed, should ensure good plant growth. Laterite was the classic "iron-rich substrate", mixed with pea gravel, held in place with a gravel tidy, and then topped with a layer of sand for the fish to root about in. It does indeed work extremely well. But Java fern take nutrients from the water, and Amazon Swords can be kept in pots and fed pellet fertilisers as required. I'd add some floating plants, such as Indian Fern, for nutrient and algae control. Like Java fern, they take nutrients from the water, not the substrate. Cheers, Neale.>

New Apisto might be sick? 8/13/09
I recently purchased four Apistogramma borellii from my LFS to add to my 30 gallon (36 in. long) tank that already contains three yo-yo loaches (Botia almorhae, full grown) and a clown Pleco (I forget what "L #" it is).
<The little Panaque should be fine, but the Botia are a bit boisterous for this community, to be honest. Apistos are odd fish. On the one hand, they'll hammer Corydoras, reputedly biting out their eyes. But on the other hand they're small enough that fish of similar or larger size can terrorise them. I'd not keep them with bottom feeders other than the Panaque, and instead use shrimps and snails for algae control (should you need them) and choose suitable mid-to-upper water fish to act as dither fish. Apistos really come into their own with dither fish, things like Hatchets having the right combination of open water swimming-ness together with not being frenetically active (like Danios) in a way that might scare the Apistos.
Funnily enough, Guppies can also work rather well, assuming water chemistry suits. For this, avoid Fancy Guppies and go with the hardier "Feeder", wild-caught, or Endler's.>
My LFS advertised the Apistos as borellis, but looking at the pictures on your Dwarf South American Cichlid page, I think they may be Apistogramma macmasteri.
<Apistogramma macmasteri and Apistogramma borellii are fairly closely related, and they can be easily confused. Hybridisation can cause further problems. But assuming you have good specimens, male Apistogramma macmasteri should have much less blue on the flanks than Apistogramma borellii, and whereas Apistogramma borellii have yellow tail fins, those on Apistogramma macmasteri tend towards red.>
I tried to get 1 male and 3 females because of their social/mating dynamic.
<Good.>
Within a day, three of the Apistos seemed to be settling nicely into their new home. They come to the front of the tank when I am in the room and you can easily tell that there is one male and two females. The male is larger and has a deep bronze color with shiny blue specks near his gills. Three days later I still did not seen the 4th Apisto. I was concerned so I moved some stuff around in the tank and found the 4th one under the base of a fake plant. When I put the fake plant back, it immediately retreated back under. I removed the plant to get a better look at it and it appeared sick.
It was a very pale reddish color and seemed to be gilling heavy. I can't tell if it is a male or female.
<May be a male, and consequently being bullied by the dominant male. If you can, remove to another tank and see if it perks up. If it does, that's your answer.>
My water parameters are: 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, <5 nitrate, 7.0 pH. I'm not sure of the exact hardness, but it's the same tap water as my LFS and they said it would be fine; the pH in our tap water was their only concern (I lowered mine to 7.0 with 2 pieces of driftwood - on the high side for Apistos, but again, LFS said they would be fine).
<Neutral, slightly soft to moderately hard water suits most Apistogramma very well. Make sure the tank isn't too warm though; unlike Ram cichlids, Apistogramma often enjoy fairly middling temperatures; 24-25 C suits most species well.>
My tank has lots of hiding places: 2 large pieces of driftwood with nooks and crannies, a 'fake' decor log, 2.5 flower pots, and a handful of fake plants.
<Coconut shells are the bee's knees here. Halve them, scoop out the flesh, use pliers to crack a "mouse hole" around the edge, and then cover with Java moss. Nothing works as well.>
For food, the Apistos seem to like bloodworms the best, but occasionally will eat flakes or leftovers from the loaches' shrimp pellets.
<I'd agree with this. These cichlids are, to be fair, omnivores in the wild that sift the sediment for insect larvae and organic detritus, so they're fairly adaptable given the motivation. A lot of fish will become addicted to bloodworms, so do rotate the foods through the week.>
Does the 4th Apisto seem like a 'clunker?' How long should I wait before returning him?
<Well, you may decide to simply take him/her back now, and pick a definite female. Won't do any harm. Ideally, a female from another batch of fish in another store, so you have a mixture of genes. Batches of cichlids in pet stores are often siblings from a single local breeder, and that'll cause obvious genetic problems with inbreeding.>
Is it possible he is just a submissive male (I have not observed any aggression among the Apistos)?
<Yes.>
Any other suggestions for my tank that I may have overlooked? Thanks and keep up the great advice on your site!
<Hope this helps, Neale.>

Stocking suggestions
Dwarf Cichlid Recommendations – 03/07/09
Dear Crew, Thanks for producing one of the most interesting sources of information in the world.
I completed a fishless cycle in a 200-litre tank five weeks ago. Initial stock living healthily for five weeks: 10 red phantom tetras and five bronze Corydoras.
Water: 25.5-26 deg C, pH = 6.5-6.7 (morning-evening), KH = 4, GH = 11, zero ammonia and nitrite. 20% weekly water change, co2 injection using bubble counter connected to sugar, yeast, bicarb potion.
Substrate: river sand mixed with aquarium humus, covered with pea gravel plus patches of pure river sand for Corys to play in
Décor: well planted, two coconut-shell caves, tallish rock arrangement (with caves) in middle aimed at dividing tank into two territories.
My initial aim was to stock with harem of Apistogramma cacatuoides. For reassurance, would above plus another school of Corys and tetras be compatible with Apistogramma cacatuoides? If so, could you please suggest a tetra species?
< Most soft water dwarf cichlids hang around the bottom of the tank. Cory's stumble into their territories and are chased away. They don't really cause much damage.>
My main problem is that Apistogramma cacatuoides, particularly females, are proving difficult to source in South Africa. For some reason they and other South American dwarf cichlids (apart from rams) have become rare. I have my heart set on a South American tank and was wondering if you could suggest other South American cichlids that would be compatible with my system (I am able to transfer the Corys and/or red phantoms to another tank if necessary) but would like the tank to remain well planted. Please note that I am reluctant to invest in an RO system.
<Other dwarfs like Nannacara and Laetacara would work and are usually readily available.>
I have done some research and angle fish and red phantoms don’t appear compatible. Do you agree with this? If so, why?
< Veiltail angels might get their fins nipped. Regular angels should do fine.>
Please could you also give me advice on adding black water extract. Is my KH too low for this. If so, what is an appropriate KH? Should one add black water extract slowly of time or all at once?
< Instead of the extract try using a buffer. Add it to the water outside the aquarium. When it is stabilized at where you want it, you can add it to the water when you do water changes.>
Thanking you in advance, Clifford, South Africa
< Their are some great West African dwarfs that are worth checking out.-Chuck>

Apistogramma ID and comp., esp. with Corydoras   02/08/09 Hi I have a 40 gallon community tank Corys, Gourami, Rasbora. I went to one of my local fish store and saw a fish that I thought looked pretty cool was told it was an Apistos cichlid (didn't expand on the name. From what I can find on youtube.com he LOOKS like "cacatuoides" (I know nothing about any types of these fish) except what I found AFTER I bought him since LFS said he would do good in community tank. It has black horizontal line through center of body a black line vertically under eye and very light black vertical lines on body. Tail is bright yellow outlined with black. Only difference (that makes me not sure from what I found on youtube.com if it is cacatuoides) is the yellow/black coloring is nowhere else. The dorsal fin only has one thin vertical black stripe at the front. My question(s) because if first question is negative answer then the rest of questions is none issue --to me anyway. 1 My online research concluded (again, after buying with OK from LFS) that Apistogramma are for tanks ph 6.5 to 7.0. LFS says their ph for their fish is 7.8 red flag???????? My tanks ph is 7.4 do I need to return the fish or will he adapt? He doesn't seem to look stressed or breathing hard so clamped fins etc. 2. From the description above are you able to give me an idea of WHICH Apistogramma this might be, and if the lack of coloration anywhere besides the tail means its a female or can still possibly be male but still young to have more color. 3.Depending on what type of Apistogramma it is what is the common name e.g. cockatoo thank you <Hello. It's not a good idea to buy any fish before confirming the identity of the species, and looking up its basic needs in a book. Cichlids are a particular problem because many species look similar but turn out to have differing needs or behaviours. Apistogramma are notoriously difficult to name. For one thing, the females are all virtually identical, but even the males can be extremely similar. Within species such as Apistogramma cacatuoides there are also distinct varieties. There's no way to name your fish without (at least) a photo, and to be honest even then there's room for error. This said, the majority of Apistogramma are fairly similar in needs: moderate temperature, soft water, low to neutral pH. Social behaviour is almost always polygamous, with one male needing to be kept with 2+ females to avoid bullying. Assuming this was an inexpensive fish, the chances are good that it was Apistogramma cacatuoides simply because that's the species most easily bred. There are numerous artificially bred forms about. It's fairly tolerant of moderately hard, slightly alkaline water. Assuming the hardness is no more than, say, 10 degrees dH and the pH no higher than 7.5, you should be fine. The major killer with these dwarf cichlids is nitrate, and you absolutely must keep the nitrate level below 20 mg/l to have any chance of long-term maintenance. Finally, most cichlids don't have common names, and those that do, the common names are often misleading, being used for other species as well. For example, the "Parrot Cichlid" isn't just that hideous hybrid, but was originally the name of a South American species, Hoplarchus psittacus. So the sooner you get comfortable with scientific names, the easier you'll find navigating the world of cichlids. By the way, do watch the Apistogramma/Corydoras mix: Apistogrammas have been known to attack and blind Corydoras catfish. Cheers, Neale.> Re: Apistogramma and  02/08/09 Hi Thank you for the fast reply. Yeah, I know it was a bad move buying a fish without knowing about it. I usually do a lot of research on the internet before getting something. I had just gone to guy some fish food and it became an "impulse buy" and I have gotten fish here before and this was someone new there. So I can only blame myself. The ratio for male to females is that for multiple cichlids for the bullying? because this is the only cichlid I have. Or is that ratio for just having a cichlid in a tank period? Here is a pic sorry that its not a great one. Hopefully this will help in a possibility identifying the fish. <Hello. The ratio of one male Apistogramma to 2+ females is to do with their social/breeding behaviour; if you have equal numbers of males and females, things don't always work out right, and sometimes the male bullies the female. With more females, he'll be moving between temporary associations with different females, so while mating with one female, the other will get a rest. If a single female has to put up with the constant attention of the male, she'll get exhausted. As she weakens, he'll get frustrated, and he'll try to drive her out of his territory. (Polygamous male cichlids can be "wife beaters"...) In any case, the picture does look a lot like Apistogramma cacatuoides, going by the orange/black flecks on the caudal fin and the long black bar along the midline of the flank. This is lucky, because as I think I mentioned last time, it's one of the best "beginner" Apistogramma. It'll put up with more mistakes than most any other member of the genus. Cheers, Neale.>

Adding fish to existing fish tank (Ram/Cichlid compatibility) 01/19/09
Hi,
I now have two Bolivian Tigers, and I would like to add some smaller fish to my aquarium, what kinds of fish should I consider?
<Do you mean Bolivian Rams (i.e. Mikrogeophagus altispinosus)? If so, you need to know, these are South American dwarf cichlids. Please do your own research re what fish you can house with them. I don't know enough about your system to help you. These links might be helpful:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/dwfsamcichlids.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/rams.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/ramcompfaqs.htm >
Malwina
<Best,
Sara M.>

Freshwater Sump??? 7/10/08
Hello...I feel like I should know all y'all on a first name basis, I read constantly on your awesome site and have learned sooo much...I work in the fish department of my LFS and take my laptop to work with me so if a customer has questions I cannot answer, I can immediately go to wwm to look for the correct solution for them.
I have recently bought a 125 All-Glass system and am planning on setting it up as a planted tank for Dwarf SA Cichlids, such as Apistogrammas, Borleyii (sp?) and German Rams. From what I have read and understood, these species should get along well in a tank of this size with lots of plants and bogwood and rock.
Ok, my concern is this... This tank is pre-drilled as I had originally purchased it to set up as a reef tank, but have since changed my mind since I already have a 90 gal reef.
Can a sump be utilized with a planted tank? I looked and looked in your freshwater filtration section and either overlooked it or overlooked it.
I can think of no reason not to use the sump but then I don't have the answers...I am one of those misleading LFS people, you know!!!
Eagerly await your reply, Thanks in advance for being there and making your site and yourselves available to all of us,
I have typed up sheets of paper with wetwebmedia.com on it and cut it up into slips that I give to customers so they can have access to your wonderful site. Thanks again for being there. Rj
<Greetings, and thanks for the kind words. There is nothing wrong with use sump-equipped tanks in freshwater aquaria. Works very well in fact, providing more space for biological filtration or the use of calcareous rubble to raise carbonate hardness required for Rift Valley cichlids. The only real issue is that the more splashing there is, the more CO2 is driven off, and this can cause you problems if you are using CO2 in a planted tank. Now, one observation I will make is that Mikrogeophagus ramirezi (such as "German Blue Rams") are not compatible with Apistogramma. There are several issues, but the two most important are differences in preferred temperature and differences in water chemistry. Apistogramma prefer moderate temperature (around 24-26 C) and slightly acidic to neutral, soft to moderately hard water depending on the species. By contrast Mikrogeophagus ramirezi does not do well in anything other than hot (around 28 C) water that is very soft and acidic. The mortality rate of Mikrogeophagus ramirezi is incredibly high in captivity, and I simply don't recommend them any more unless you have a special "hot" aquarium for them and can source locally bred or wild-caught stock. So either stick with your Apistogramma, or else add something like the wonderfully reliable Bolivian Ram Mikrogeophagus altispinosus. Cheers, Neale.>

Rams in a hard water area – 1/28/08
Hi guys,
<Hello.>
First off, great site. As a relative newcomer to all this, I've learnt a lot from your site, but there are some specific questions I had regarding my slightly shaky knowledge of water chemistry!
<Please have a read of these articles on water chemistry:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwsoftness.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwhardness.htm
A lot of the problems aquarists have with keeping fish alive come down to keeping the wrong sorts of fish in their local water chemistry conditions. By default, beginners should first find out their water chemistry, and then select fish that do well in such conditions. Randomly buying fish and hoping they'll adapt sometimes works, but often doesn't.>
I live in an area with quite alkaline water coming out of the taps, with a pH of about 7.5 - 8, and I know the water is also very hard, although I haven't tested it for an exact figure.
<Do test, or at least get a sample tested at the fish shop. In Southern England for example, the water often has a pH around 8 and a hardness around 20 degrees dH -- this is harder and more alkaline than the water in Lake Tanganyika! Consequently, many soft water fish DO NOT do well.>
I have recently purchased a Juwel Rio 125, which as yet is totally empty, no water, plants or substrate, although I have purchased some soil and lime-free substrate.
<Rio tanks are nicely made, so good choice.>
I hope to eventually keep a pair of rams, a few Corys and a school of Glowlight, cardinal or black phantom tetras, as yet undecided.
<Back to the drawing board, please. Do research the requirements of each of these species and you'll see there isn't much overlap. Rams need very warm water to do well, at least 28 C, which is far too warm for many Corydoras and the Black Phantoms. On the other hand, while Corydoras will tolerate hard, alkaline water well, Cardinals and Rams generally do not.>
First off, is this a good selection?
<No.>
Obviously I am aware that these fish prefer slightly acidic soft water conditions to thrive, so here is where my main question arises. I have read a little about RO water, and so I know that at some stage this is going to have to be involved in my tank setup, and is available from my LFS, but I'm unsure as to the best way to use it to get to the conditions I require for these fish, which I have researched and seem to be around a pH of 6.5 and a hardness of 6-10 dH (does this sound right to you?).
<Do read the article on soft water aquaria in particular. I keep soft water fish in a hard water area, and do so by mixing rainwater with tap water, typically at a 50:50 mix to keep things simple. I'd personally forget about Rams; the quality of commercial stock is extremely poor and riddled with disease by the time you buy them because they get weakened by being kept at standard temperatures. Bolivian Rams, Flag Acara and Keyhole Cichlids are much better community tank South American cichlids, and infinitely easier to keep. Do pay close attention to the temperature requirements of the fish too. South America is a big place, and many fish from the continent, such as Neons and Peppered Corydoras, want cooler water than those from warmer waters. Mix the two together and someone will be unhappy.>
Sorry if this question is a little broad, if you require any more information I'll do my best to supply it, and keep up the good work!
Phil
P.S. Please bear in mind I live in the UK, so if you are going to recommend any products those available here would be useful!
<Cheers, Neale.>

Apistogramma Sp. Galaxy Info 1/12/2008
Hello , I have recently come about a dwarf cichlid at one of my LFS .I was told is an Apistogramma galaxia ( aka steel blue? ), however I can not find any information on any fish with that name. I am guessing galaxia is a not so common name. They don't stay still long enough to get a good picture of them. The male is gray with a dark horizontal band running from his eye to just at the tail and a vertical band through the eye. The tail is yellow and the dorsal is a light blue tipped with a very thin edge of red. There is also pale blue and red tiny speckles on the cheeks. The females have the same horizontal band but also have vertical ones as well that aren't as visible in the male. They also have the same coloration on the dorsal and cheeks but not as strong as in the male. They are just over an inch long at this time. If you could please help or point me in the right direction it would be much appreciated. Thank You
JP
< Exporters from Peru come across many unusual Apistogramma species. Anytime there is a slight variation in the color they call the same fish a different name. This same fish has been imported under the name Apisto. sp.( parrot, algodon 1, rio algodon, papagien, galaxy, galaxia and galaxis). It is a dwarf cichlid that gets a little over 2 inches with the females staying much smaller. They tend to like soft acidic clean water. Females turn yellow when getting ready to breed. After spawning in a cave she turns a bright yellow and chase all the other fish away. At 80 F the eggs hatch in about three days. The fry become free swimming in another three days and then need to be fed baby brine shrimp, micro worms and finely crushed flake food. The males don't develop any fin ray extensions on the dorsal or caudal fin. Looks to be a very nice fish when it matures.-Chuck>

Re: Apistogramma Galaxia
Dither Fish Recommendations For Apistogrammas    01/13/2008
Hi, Thanks for the reply Chuck. I'm very excited to see them mature now as they are already really pretty. They are in a 10 gallon as of now temp is 80 F and ph is 6.5 with weekly water changes of 30% .I will be moving them into a 20 long sort so they can have more space. It will have a sand substrate lots of wood and planted with java ferns and mosses. Any suggestions for a dither or top dwelling tank mate maybe even from the same area? I read keeping Corys or other bottom fishes would not be so good. Thanks again. JP
< Hatchet fish, splashing tetras or pencil fish would leave the Apistos as the dominant fish in the tank. Dwarf Corys would probably be killed by a brooding female.-Chuck>

Sick Bolivian Ram... mis-stocked, salt use, env. dis.  12/7/07
Hi -
<Hello Laura>
I have an 80 gallon FW tank that cycled for 6 weeks prior to adding fish. I added one tablespoon of aquarium salt per gallon of water when I set up the tank
<Why? That is, for what purpose?>
and continue to add salt at the same rate when I do water changes.
<Again, your rationale?>
The LFS suggested I try 3 Bolivian Rams, 2 Rubber Nose Plecos, 2 Botia Angelicus, 3 Kribensis, and 3 Neolamprologus Sexfasciatus.
<... suggested? Mmm, these fishes "like" quite different water conditions... some soft/acidic, others hard/alkaline... Mmm, maybe see all these species ranges for such posted on Fishbase.org>
They told me the fish would be OK together in an 80 gallon tank with plenty of rocks and plants so I created 3 separate groupings of rocks/caves and plants then added all the fish to the tank at the same time. They were doing great the last 3 months until now.
<Okay>
The female Ram stopped eating 2 weeks ago. She hides in the plants or hovers near the heater, she doesn't seem to be eating and is getting thinner, her feces are thin and pale, looking more like empty casings than anything else. She doesn't swim with the other Rams the way she used to. Also, today her breathing seems to be more labored and I thought I saw some swelling inside her gills.
<Mmmm, could be internal parasite issue... perhaps (a smaller likelihood) the water conditions, salt catching up with it metabolically... even psychological reaction to hassling... by the Botias or African Cichlids...>
The only other sick fish is one of the Plecos - it has a strange looking spot on it's tail that looks like a chunky ball right on the middle edge of the tail fin. Could that be a fungus? He seems healthy otherwise - swimming and feeding as usual.
<Seem WWM re funguses/infectious disease of FW fishes... and of Loricariids... True fungus is rare... very much more likely here is trouble with your water quality... Again, the salt, too hard water...>
I'm sure these problems were created by poor water conditions
<Oh, I agree>
and overfeeding which I have hopefully rectified. I fell behind on water changes and the nitrates spiked to almost 80. I've been doing small water changes every 2 days for the last 10 days.
<Mmm, this may be too much... what percentage are you changing out?>
Water quality seems to be ok now - nitrites and ammonia are zero, nitrates are down to 15, temp. is 81 degrees F. I will be maintaining the tank with a weekly schedule of small water changes from now on.
<Good>
Is there anything else I can do to make the Ram healthy again or is it too late?
<Never too late as long as the animals are alive...>
What do you suggest for the Pleco's tail?
<The same as for the Rams...>
Should I treat all the fish at the same time in the 80 gallon tank?
<Mmm, no>
If I need to move the Ram and Pleco to a hospital tank, can they be in the same tank for treatment?
Thanks, in advance, for your advice!
Laura
<Not advice per se... but systematically this is what I would consider: Moving the soft/acidic animals (the Rams and Plecos) into another system, or the hard/alkaline water (the Africans and Botias)... into another system (they're not compatible physically or psychologically)... Next, giving up on salt... See NealeM's input here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/saltusefaqs.htm
Reading before taking anyone's advice (mine, ours inclusive)... The mix you have now, salt use are untenable... won't work.
Bob Fenner>

12 G Eclipse Stock up, Dwarf Cichlid sel.  10/29/07
Hello. I bought 12 G Marineland with the heater today. I will plant it. I would like to keep a pair of dwarf cichlids in it. Possible, or not? Any suggestions? You are my favorite website. Thank you, Tanya
<Mmm, there are some of the smaller Apistogramma, Nannacaras that might fit here... However, if they or you intend to breed them... you'll need more room. I would take a look on the Net, library re these genera. Bob Fenner>

Re: 12 G Eclipse Stock up... Dwarf Cichlids  10/29/07
Wow!!! This is exactly what I was planning to buy after the research. Cockatoo cichlid. My PH is 7 from tap, 7.4 in not densely planted 3G Eclipse w/Betta and cherry shrimp. I don't have a hardness kit as of yet, but I see some mineral deposits on the equipment. I'll buy the hardness kit in the end of this week. Any luck for me w/blue rams? Couple of them, and couple or 3 panda Cory? Overstocking or not? The tank will be densely planted This is the planning stage of the project and your opinion is very important.
Ammonia = 0
Nitrites = 0
Nitrates = .5
Aquarium Pharmaceutical Tests
Thank you,
Tanya
<Tanya, your message arrived somewhat mangled. I've hopefully fixed it, but if not, please re-send. Anyway, The water should be fine for Apistogramma cacatuoides (Cockatoo cichlid). Provided the water is not very hard, these fish seem to adapt quite well to a range of conditions. The ideal is fairly soft, slightly acidic water but neutral to slightly alkaline, moderately hard water is fine. The problem when breeding them in the "wrong" water chemistry is bias in the sex ration. In this case, alkaline pH causes an excess of males, whereas strongly acidic (pH 5.5) conditions results in mostly females. The ideal is around 6.5 to 7. Temperature also seems to be a factor. The cooler the water (low 20s C) the more females, the warmer the water (high 20s) the more males. So you need to play around with temperature as well as water chemistry to get it "just right" for equal numbers of male and female fry. Aiming for slightly soft to moderately hard water at pH 7 and at 25 C should work well. Mixing Apistogramma with Mikrogeophagus isn't recommended, for several reasons. For a start, Mikrogeophagus are apt to be bullies. They are larger than the Apistogramma and will fight over the same resources (food, nesting sites). Apistogramma also don't want the same very high temperatures as Mikrogeophagus ramirezi (which is what you Blue Ram is). Apistogramma are best at 24-26 C, while Mikrogeophagus ramirezi need very warm water, around 28-30 C, to survive for any length of time. Keep Apistogramma too warm, and they will be even shorter lived than otherwise; keep Mikrogeophagus ramirezi too cold and they'll be subject to disease and exhibit poor overall condition. Both species can work well with Corydoras, though again, the high temperatures required by Mikrogeophagus ramirezi will stress many Corydoras species in the long term. Corydoras panda for example want something in the range 20-25 C; in warmer water they may survive, but you'll notice them breathing heavily and making frequent dashes to the surface to compensate for the insufficient oxygen in the water. Not ideal. Apistogramma cacatuoides on the other hand will do well at 24-25 C, and so will the Corydoras panda. However, both Apistogramma and Mikrogeophagus have been known to damage Corydoras catfish when breeding: to the point where the poor little Corydoras have their eyes bitten off! This can be avoided by not overcrowding the fish, but still, there's always a risk when mixing them. What matters rather more with either dwarf cichlid is dither fish. Tetras or Danios are ideal. You need these to make the cichlids comfortable. Also do try and keep multiple female Apistogramma per male; none of the Apistogramma are really "pair forming" fish, and the males behave themselves rather better when given a harem. This is somewhat less true for Mikrogeophagus, which tends to behave fine as a pair. One last thing: a 3 gallon tank of any sort is simply not viable for any of these fish. A trio of Apistogramma would work in a 10 gallon tank, as would a pair of Mikrogeophagus, perhaps with a few Danios for the Apistogramma and some sort of warm water tetra for the Mikrogeophagus, such as Cardinals. Overcrowding cichlids is never a good idea: they not only beat one another up if they feel boxed in, but they're also very sensitive to poor water quality. Dwarf cichlids, doubly so. Cheers, Neale.>

Apistos and Shrimp    5/21/07
Hello,  I was wondering if it would be ok to keep Apistogramma and Caridina serrata together. I have plenty of room for them and they would be going into a planted aquarium. I'm just worried that the apistos would eat the shrimp. Thank you, CJ
< Apistogramma cacatuoides have a pretty good sized mouth. If the shrimp will not fit in their mouths then they will probably leave them alone until the shrimp moult. When the shrimp moult their skin is very soft and leaves them vulnerable to be eaten by fish. If there are plenty of places for them to hide they will be fine.-Chuck>

Dwarf Cichlid Availability   5/20/07
Dear Crew, I found the wetwebmedia site and see that people are active on a chat.  I am wondering if there is a fee/joint protocol?
< No fee, just follow the leads of the others on the chat room.>
I've had tanks for years, though I still consider myself a novice.
< An expert is a person that realizes how little they know.>
Currently, I have a 75 gallon tank and am starting with new fish (my Oscar died).    I have 2 Plecos, one albino and one Bristlenose, 2 bottom feeding cats (can't remember name, not like a Cory, more like a catfish body shape, dark with spots, they are an inch long) and 10 Keyholes. I would like to keep a dwarf cichlid tank.  The pet store told me that the pH for Rams  needs to be higher than for the Keyholes, is that correct?   Also, how common are Cockatoo Dwarfs? Thank you so much, Karla McCoy
<Rams need a higher water temp than the keyholes. Rams come from open marshy areas where the water temp gets quite high. They need to be kept at a minimum of 82-84 F. They both prefer soft acidic water. Apistogramma cacatuoides are actually quite common on Aquabid.com. There are now many different color varieties that are easy to keep and spawn.-Chuck>

Setting Up A Tall FW Tank, Dwarf S. Am. Cichlid Sys.    2/22/07
Hi Bob/Crew, thanks so much for the advice so far.  After doing some more research I have a couple specific questions.  Again, my tank is a 20Lx18Wx30H 47G tall tank.  I've decided on a 1-2mm sand substrate (Carib-sea Torpedo Beach sand - tan in color) and I've found and ordered the rock I'm going to use to build up a roughly 20" - 25" structure or so - plenty of caves/crevices/swim-throughs (resin lace rock - but looks great, as natural as resin can get).  I plan on having a few live plants, a couple on the bottom and maybe a couple attached to various spots on the rock if I can manage it.
In researching what fish I'd like to keep, I think I'd really like to have some Blue Rams, and maybe other dwarf cichlid species.  You mentioned angelfish and gouramis as an idea in your response to my original email, and I read those will do well with peaceful rams, along with danios, loaches, rainbowfish, tetras, and Plecos/catfish.  Given the fact that this is a tall tank, which reduces the number of fish I can keep anyway (compared to an equal size long tank), and only has a 20x18 bottom, how many Rams/dwarf cichlids can I realistically expect to keep in this tank (I'm assuming the limited bottom dimensions will determine the number I can keep, based on territorial space needed)?
< Dwarf cichlids are territorial and love tank bottoms. If you get six then they will set up their own little territories.>
Ideally, for sure I think I would like to have some Blue Rams and some other dwarf cichlids of some type, along with 2 angelfish.  Then to fill out the tank, however many gouramis (or maybe rainbowfish), tetras, loaches I can add (plus maybe a small pleco/catfish.  I just don't know how many of each species I can safely add with this tall tank.  So, given the cichlids and angelfish, and then the other fish types I listed (or others if you have any better ideas), and assuming they all can co-exist realistically together, what combinations and numbers would you suggest for my tank? (i.e. 2 Blue Rams, 2 Cockatoo Cichlids, 2 angelfish, 2 gouramis, 8 tetras, ....).  Also, my goal is to get a good distribution of fish at all levels of the tank (bottom/middle/top), so if you don't think my current thinking will achieve that, please let me know.
< Six dwarf cichlids for the bottom. The loaches and Plecos will most likely take up most of the bottom too. The angelfish will be found in the midwater area. Big round bodied tetras like rosy tetras will also be found in the mid water area. Most gourami  types stay pretty close to the surface. Start out slow and add fish later depending on your water changes. Keep the nitrates under 20 ppm.>
Oh, one last question (I promise!).  With this tall tank, if I have plants on the very bottom, I'm assuming the standard cheapo fluorescent light that came with the tank won't be enough light for the plants on the bottom?  Would a Power Compact fixture work here, or would that be overkill?  Cichlids and angelfish don't like a ton of light, right?  Would this be too much for them?  What do you suggest? Thanks again guys!!! Jeff
< If you want to grow any plants at all then the will need light. Try species like Cryptocorynes, java fern and Anubias for now. Add the compact florescent later if more light is needed.-Chuck>

Rainbow Sharks, comp. with dwarf Cichlids sel.    02/17/07
Hi, I have a single rainbow shark living in a 23g, he's (definitely a male) currently living with two dwarf gouramis and a Sailfin Molly, the gouramis and the sailfin molly will be moved out within the next few days, as I finally managed to fix their tank, and set it up and plant it. Anyway I've been trying to find a new tank mate for Kelvin my shark, there are plans in place to move him into either a 4 foot or 3 foot tank when he gets bigger but so far he's all of 5cm long. So I'm after a single fish with personality and was interested in cichlids, but I can't find any conclusive info on the net about any dwarf cichlids that'll live in a 23g and live with a rainbow shark. Any help'd be appreciated.
<Mmm... should be of the more "feisty" variety... not the real small Apistogrammas, Nannacaras... Maybe something like the Bolivian Ram...>
Oh and the tanks currently got a couple of caves and some plastic plants,
I'm going to break up some pots to add more caves and add a few more decorations/caves from the pet store in there too.
<Sounds good>
Thanks
Emma
<Do take a look see on the mega-site Fishbase.org using the search term "dwarf cichlid"... and then a cursive look/see on the Net, your Stockists re what they can get from this sub-set. Bob Fenner>

Sick Bolivian Ram    2/16/07 You folks have been so helpful to me in the past.  I am one of those people that has not quarantined new arrivals, and after playing with fire for 2 years, I've finally been burnt.  I brought home a Bolivian ram on Saturday.  It looked like a female and I wanted to have a male/female pair in my 55 gallon community tank.  I have had a male that I absolutely adore for the past year and a half, and wanted a second one so bad.  When the fella was catching the fish I thought I saw a fish come whirling out of the plants, but he assured me that there were no sick fish in the tank.  This fish looked good, so I figured I was mistaken, and I took it home acclimated and released it.  It had a hard time at first because it wanted to hang in the same area as Yellowbelly, my resident male, but he didn't take to kindly too that and kept on nipping it away from his territory.  But nothing severe.  After pretty much staying out of sight for a day, I saw her swimming in a spastic uncontrollable spinning motion and then just laying limp on the gravel. I immediately put her into a 2.5 gallon quarantine tank, at which time she got worse very quickly and developed Popeye and cloudy eye, along with the spastic bursts of swimming.  Everything I have read points to this type of thing being a viral disease or infection, because it affects the neurological system, and that there is no cure for fish with viruses. Now to the question I'm dreading...  How contagious is something like this?  I know I'm going to have to euthanize the poor thing.  But I am so scared that my beloved pets are all going to get this incurable thing now.  Is there anything I can do?  Can you help me conclusively diagnose what it has?  I am enclosing a short clip of the fish's behaviour last night and three pictures of how it looks.  Colors look okay, and no other visible evidence of illness except for the Popeye, cloudy eyes, and a slightly sunken belly.  I feel absolutely sick about this. Thanks, and take care, Mary. < This may be a virus but I think it is probably a bacterial infection. Keep the water quality up in your aquarium and watch the other fish carefully for signs of problems. You could try and save the fish by treating him/her in a hospital tank with a combination  Metronidazole and Nitrofurazone. If your fish are healthy they should have a pretty good resistance to all diseases.-Chuck>

Seeing Red Apistogramma cacatuoides   1/7/07
Hi, my Cacatuoides just recently had a batch of fry, and, do to past failures on account of the female, I wanted to check in on her at night. I had a moon light for my saltwater and figured that would work as well as anything. The first female I saw in the tank, three in total, had a slight blue tint as I would expect under a moon light, but when I found the mother I was surprised to discover that she was a deep red except around the eyes. The male too, was red around his stomach. When I turned on the tank light, however, these areas were their usual yellow that appears when breeding. I guess my question is; are moon lights a similar spectrum to black lights? I also wonder if the fry or the male can see in this spectrum, and if it serves a purpose in their communication. I know the male respects her now when she chases him out of her territory where he never did before.
<Saltwater lighting does funny things to freshwater fish. At night it is common for sleeping fish to take on a different color pattern. This usually allows them to blend in with their surroundings. Moonlighting may be similar to a blacklight. When the female shows that black and yellow coloration she is sending a message to all other fish to stay away. Cichlids are pretty smart and the male catches on very quickly that if he comes close to the fry that they will be defended by the female.-Chuck>

Updated Stocking Question For a 75 Gal Dwarf Cichlid Tank  - 10/14/06
Hi, Thanks for the earlier response.  If I don't keep any discus, how is this modified stocking list? I am working on a stocking plan for my 75. How does this look?:
Apistogramma (1 male +2-3 females)--maybe agassizi, Apistogramma (1 male +2-3 females)--maybe cacatuoides, [the mix of Apistos depends on what's available at the LFS], German Blue Ram (1 male + 1-2 females, Flag Cichlid (Laetacara Curviceps--1 pair)
--Is that too many dwarf cichlids for a 75?
< All your dwarf cichlids look good.>
For companions:
lemon tetras (dozen), cardinal tetras (2 dozen), cories (half dozen), coolie loaches (3-4)--not South American fish, but cool. Maybe a few otos and maybe a half dozen hatchet fish.--Is that my bioload too heavy? Thanks again, Nate
< The dwarf cichlids will hang out at the bottom of the tank. When a Cory or coolie loach comes by they will be chased away by the cichlids. The hatched fish are notorious jumpers so keep the top well covered. check the nitrates. With these fish try to keep them under 20 ppm. If you cannot maintain this level then increase your water changes or reduce the number of fish.-Chuck>

Apistogramma with Infected Nostril 10/10/06
Hi Crew. I have an Apistogramma cacatuoides which has a white spot in one of its nostrils. Since it is where the nostril is supposed to be, I don't think the hole is due to "hole in the head" but rather it is the nostril itself. Moreover, it doesn't seem to look like "cotton wool" so it probably isn't "cotton wool" disease. The white condition looks like it is pus. This fish is quite new. When I first bought it, I noticed that it had a red rash (not a red spot per say) at and around the nostril area. Ammonia and Nitrite at 0, Nitrate at 5 ppm. pH at around 6.6. I treated with a combination of Pimafix and Melafix for 3 days, then continued with only Melafix for the next 2 days. When I was treating with Pimafix, the whiteness seemed to have subsided. However, it has gone bigger since I stopped dosing with Pimafix and only had Melafix.
I would appreciate any "educated guesses" as to what this condition/disease may be. Thanks Tim
<Apistogrammas make a living by foraging through the gravel and sand for little critters to eat. Sometimes the substrate is a little too coarse and abrasive. As the cichlid pushes his face into the sand it irritates the face and nasal cavities. Something has scratched the internal nasal cavity of your Apistogramma and it is infected. The white is a secondary fungal infection. Treat in a hospital tank with Nitrofurazone. Follow the directions on the package.-Chuck>

Apistogramma With Nostril Infection, Follow-up - 10/11/06
Hi Chuck, thanks so much for your reply. Since I have Triple Sulfa at home, I was wondering if I could use this instead of Nitrofurazone as you suggested.
< It is worth a try but the Nitrofurazone has antifungal properties too.>
By the way, you suggested in response to an earlier email from me (if you remember) to try some L. curviceps in the same 50 gallon tank together with my Apistos. I now have a pair, and they are indeed a great addition to the tank.
< Glad to hear that you like them too.-Chuck>
Thanks again, Tim

Discus Tank Stocking   8/14/06
Dear Crew,
<Eric>
Thank you for the wonderful resource you provide, and for answering my questions in the past. I have recently moved into a new apt. and have
taken the opportunity to redo my tank.  Previously it was a planted community, but I would like to give a shot to discus. I do have about 10
years of experience with fish and have done much research but I would like to get some outside opinions on my plans.
<Okay>
I donated all of the fish and kept the plants, which are an assortment consisting mostly of various swords, java moss, java fern, and vals. The
only other livestock in the tank are some mystery snails, as well as what I believe are small Ramshorn ( though I am not positive ). I don't
mind the snails because as long as I feed them once in a while they leave the plants alone.  
<A good technique>
The tank itself is a 72 gallon ( nominal ) bowfront. The filter is an Aquaclear 500 ( though I believe their model numbers have changed )
using a sponge, carbon and zeolite bags. Lighting consists of 220w PC (I don't recall the temperature offhand ). The substrate consists of
regular gravel mixed with Eco-Complete ( I don't have it in front of me but that's what I believe it is called ) topped off with a thin layer of
Tahitian Black Moon Sand for effect. There is rockwork and bogwood as well. Thankfully NYC tap water is good so I don't have to add much in
terms of chemicals besides fertilizer which is dosed every few days ( I use Seachem Flourish and Flourish tabs ).
Once the plants have taken hold, I am currently planning on stocking the tank as follows ( after proper quarantine ):
3-5 discus bought from a breeder ( who preferably uses tap water so that they are conditioned to my water supply )
<Good>
2 or 3 Bristlenose plecs ( 1 male )
1 or 2 pairs of Rams ( are the German and Bolivian Rams different species or breeds ? )
<Please see here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/dwfsamcichlids.htm
and the FAQs file linked above. Different species unless the common names are getting switched>
I would like to have a group of a small schooling or shoaling dither fish but haven't decided on which. I will probably go for 10 or so cardinal tetras to keep with the biotype.
<Of good starting size>
5 hatchetfish ( I have a cover )
My main concern is the stocking density as I like to keep away from the crowded tank look because I feel it takes away from the natural behavior of the fish.
<You are wise here. It does>
I am very open to suggestions both as to species and stocking numbers. While I am not setting this up with any species breeding in mind, I do like to see the fish interact and behave as naturally as possible under the circumstances which is why I tried to pair certain fish.
Thanks again for your help,
Eric
<Unless you have plans to move out some of them, I would stick with no more than three discus here. Bob Fenner>

Re: Discus/FW (Rams, Pleco...) Tank Stocking   8/16/06
Dear Mr. Fenner,
<Eric>
Thanks for your quick reply. I choose to go with 3-5 discus because I have read that they better in schools
<If not too crowded...>
of at least 5 but I was worried that it would be too many. I think that I will get 5 small discus and wait a few months to see if any pair off, then return or sell the 1 or 2 that are at the bottom of the pecking order.
<A workable plan>
In regards to the rams, I have been told on a yahoo group, and read elsewhere, that the German rams are a breed of rams (I recall it being Bolivian )
<Mmm, no... are the same Microgeophagus... ramirezi, vs. altispinosa... The Bolivian Ram is a different species... http://fishbase.sinica.edu.tw/Summary/speciesSummary.php?ID=15902&genusname=Mikrogeophagus&speciesname=altispinosus>
that were developed in Germany to exhibit the better coloration. If I decide to not go with the rams, would a pair or two of another dwarf cichlid do
well in this tank, or should I stick with the rams?
<Possibly... there are quite a few species... some too shy, easygoing...>
Is the proper stocking of Bristlenose plecs 1 male to 2 females? Should there be any specific order of stocking?
Thanks again,
Eric
<Best to place whatever sex ratio here, and keep an eye out for possible pairing, remove others if they're being beaten. Bob Fenner>

Adding More Dwarf Cichlids 07/04/06
Hello Crew. One of my tanks is 55 gallons, 39 inches long x 18 inches wide.
I currently already have two pairs of dwarf cichlids (1 pair of blue rams and 1 pair of Apistogramma cacatuoides) in a community tank with
silver dollars, dwarf gouramis, panda Corys and live bearers.
Assuming that bioload is not a problem, do you think that I could add more dwarf cichlids (of different types to what I already have) into
this tank for a territorial perspective? Thanks! Tim
<Plenty of room. Look at something different like Laetacara curviceps or dorsigera.-Chuck>

Sexing Bolivian Rams   4/30/06
WWM crew, I've had a pair of Bolivian rams (Microgeophagus altispinosa) for several months now alone in a 10G tank.  The tank was cycled before adding them, and
they've been the only inhabitants.  I got them when both were fairly young and small, definitely not close to full-grown.  Their tank has a ~2 inch
gravel substrate (natural, pebbles somewhere 1/8-1/4" diameter) and a crypt. wendtii and java fern.  They've been peaceful the whole time, but lately one
has started bothering the other.  From watching other types of New World cichlids, it seems to me like it could be pre-spawning (occasional chasing,
never in the same territory, staring at each other and displaying fins, one turning away from the other after they stare and display).  Anyhow, I've
looked for reliable information about sexing these rams, but can't find a lot.  There's plenty of info about for the blue rams, but I'm still a little
murky about these guys.  Since shortly before they started this behavior, one of them started to have his/her darker markings get a lot darker.  The
other is still mostly paler in the general body area, but this one looks a little more like this http://img89.exs.cx/img89/7272/bolivianram15ed.jpg,
except the dorsal spines aren't that dark.  I know to look for the first few dorsal spines, but both of them seem to still be developing some.  Is there
any other good, reliable way to sex them besides the dorsal spines, like shape, spots of color, etc while they are still fairly young?  If needed I
can get pictures of mine, the above link is just a similarly colored body.
I would like to have a pair that could breed at some point, so here's my current thinking.  I'll wait for a while longer to see if any more
differences manifest themselves, physically or behaviorally.  If not, I get several other rams and see if a pair forms, then bring the others back to
the LFS.  Does this sound like a good course of action?  Also, if I do end up with a pair, would it be a good idea to keep a small school of neon or
cardinal tetras as dithers, or best to just have the two?  Thanks for your help! Alex
< Larger males are more intensely colored, have longer fins and are somewhat larger than the females. Males have extended rays in the top and bottom of the tail fin.-Chuck>

Breeding Dwarf Cichlids  4/29/06
Within the next month or two I'm planning on buying a 20 gallon long tank for a freshwater dwarf cichlid setup.  There are three basic routes I am thinking of taking:
Number 1 - Microgeophagus Ramirezi breeding pair, school of Cardinal Tetras in a planted tank.  Not sure what type of plant, probably mostly
Cryptocoryne wendtii.  If not that, some type of Anubias sp.  Also considering, thinking it wouldn't be a good idea to add a small school
(~3-4) Corys of some type.  Would you go with the Corys, or just the rams and tetras?
< Dwarf cichlids tend to occupy the same areas as the Cory's so I would leave them out.> Also, for the planted aspect, would a layer of ~1-2 inches red fluorite underneath a layer of about 1.5 inches gravel be fine as a substrate, or should I go with some mud?
< The Fluorite will work just fine. No mud required.>
I'm aiming for close to the max plant population I can have without adding extra CO2.  Approximately how many crypts would that be with a pair of the rams and about 6-10 tetras?
< Start with just one. If conditions are right you will have more crypts than you can handle.>
Number 2 - Trio of "Lamprologus" ocellatus golds, 1M/2F.  Approximately 2 inch off-white or black sand bottom, maybe 6-10 shells scattered, possibly some lace rock or "Texas Holey" rock.  Would it be a good idea to put anything else in with these guys in only a 20G, maybe a Synodontis of some species or two?
< Go with the dwarf Synodontis petricola if any. They will feed on baby cichlids. The lamps may end up picking on them the entire time while protecting their fry.>
Number 3 - Pair of Rainbow Kribensis in a planted tank.  Would it be smart to go with anything else in a 20G, or just let the pair breed and raise the fry?  I know the Kribs can tolerate brackish, but freshwater throughout their lives should be fine, especially with breeding, right?
<Pelvicachromis pulcher (Kribs) are actually fairly easy to breed and raise the fry. The sex ratio of the fry may be biased by the pH they can easily be bred in tap water as long as it is not too hard.>
I'm leaning towards the second option, I have one tank already with a pair of Microgeophagus altispinosa in it and the little yellow guys are just fascinating.  For the l. ocellatus, do they do well with just any male/2 females, or should I get an assortment and let them sort it out for themselves, returning the others?
< One male per tank if fine. If you get an extra male he will get his own territory on opposite end of the tank.>
I'm looking towards eventually breeding them for selling, but not for a while at least (hence all the breeding
combinations).  I should be able to get the equipment within about 3 weeks, but from there there's no rush for getting the rest of the setup (LFS is having a 20G long sale).  Thanks for the book, the website, and the help!
Alex
< For breeding purposes get as many females as you can with a couple of males. Skip the catfish. Use lots of shells.-Chuck>

Bolivian Rams not eating    4/12/06
I am sorry to ask more questions but this is important and kind of urgent. I am writing down all of my questions and will put them all in one big email and
that should be it. But for now... I just got 2 Bolivian Rams on Saturday from Petsmart. I feed twice a day, flakes
<Won't likely accept prepared foods till trained on them>
at about 6pm after school, and then bloodworms at about 8:30 - 8:45 pm. The lights are on a timer and I am gone for
school before they even turn on in the morning and I figured it's better not to disrupt the light for the fish. But my rams have not eated in 3 days. They
have takes little bites of flakes, chew them, but then spit them out. They also taste the bloodworms but then also spit them out. My neons and danios in the
same tank have gotten HUGE because all of the food I have been trying to get to the rams. Is there anything that a normal household would have that my rams might eat?
<... what re this tank temp., water chemistry? Please see here: http://filaman.ifm-geomar.de/Summary/speciesSummary.php?ID=15902&genusname=Mikrogeophagus&speciesname=altispinosus>
The neons and danios eat almost everything before it can get to the bottom, which is where the rams are, and they never go higher than about half
way up the side of the tank. I don't know what to do for them because they have to be hungry by now. My pH is about 8.2,
<Way too high...>
may that have an effect on their eating?
<Oh yes... and tank temperature? Bob Fenner>
Thanks - Marc

More Questions About Bolivian Ram Care    4/14/06
1. I have a pH of about 8.2 and I have neons, danios, and a pair of Bolivian Rams.
<Too high for the Rams, Neons...>
I know that neons like it at a lower pH and so do rams. The neons seem very happy and are actively eating and                 
swimming so... to keep the rams happy, is it a good idea to lower my pH?
<Yes>
If so, I did a little reading on your website - which is very helpful by the way - and I discovered that bogwood combined with peat moss in a
filter, should keep it stable and at a comfortable level, is this correct?
<Generally so, but I would adjust new water, store same ahead of time, outside the system...>
Would driftwood do the trick?
<Perhaps>
PetSmart does not carry any bogwood or peat moss so do you have any web sites or online stores where I can purchase it because no one around me carries it.
<See etailers on the Net re>
If I do find peat moss and bogwood, would it be too big of a     shock for any fish in my tank to have the pH be lowered quickly?
<Not likely, through this method>
If         so, how could I make it less stressful, and still keep them happy?
<Adjust the pH, hardness outside the system in their change water... starting with filtered water (many methods) and using acidifiers...>
2. I talked to someone about my rams having "egg spots." I learned that they do not get them, so could they be something to worry about?
<Not likely>
They are a light blue color. Also about the rams' color, I may have asked this but what types of already frozen foods could I give them to make their colors glow?
<See WWM re Dwarf S. American Cichlids, Microgeophagus...>
3. I talked to Bob previously about feeding my rams flakes. He said they "won't likely eat flakes till trained on them." How would I train them if  they don't touch them.
<Mix a bit with other palatable foods... slowly increase the percentage>
I am sure that's what they were fed at Petsmart because they are not to nutritious there.
4. I was looking over articles about rams and now I cannot find it, but someone from your site said that it might not be a good idea (I think)  if you but stem plants with rams. Why and also, what are stem plants like so I can maybe replace the ones I have already.
<See here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwlvstkind2.htm
scroll down...>
5. Again about my rams. They look pretty young and really haven't developed their colors yet. One is about 2 inches and the other 
has to be around.... I'd say about 1.25 inches. The smaller one has more of a yellow red belly and the big one just has yellow. It's hard to     tell
since they have almost no color! May the smaller one be a female?
<Might be>
It has darker black lines and spots and again... I cannot         really see any metallic scales over the black spot... or anywhere else     on it's body.
            -Sorry for such a long email... it's just the people at Petsmart just try to make you buy stuff, regardless of anything. I thought it would be better to make one big email than, about 16 every time I came up with one! Your site is really helpful and you guys do a nice job of keeping up with the waves of emails and post them the next day! 20* out of 10*
    -Marc
<Keep reading and thinking, questioning Marc. You'll do fine. Bob Fenner>

Lowering pH or rams - 15/4/06
For some more questions on pH for my rams....  - 04/14/2006
<OK. First question: Are you sure you need to do this? Stable conditions are always my first preference.> <<Does need... 8.4 for Bolivians is too high. RMF>>
I thought I just might buy either reverse osmosis water or... get gallons of distilled water.
<I'd opt for the former, given the choice.>
If I use reverse osmosis water, everything in it is gone right? so would I have to add more nutrients or chemicals to keep my plants alive?
<To keep you fish alive, even.>
I thought if I mix prepared distilled water along with some tap water every water change about every 2 weeks, then it might lower my pH. Do you think this idea might work?
<Yes, but I would use RO water, and do *not* chase pH here. KH and GH should be the parameters you are trying to control here. For breeding rams, I would shoot for a *stable* KH of around 4 dKH, and a *stable* GH of around 5 (or measured with a conductivity/TDS meter to be under 100 ppm). Aerate/store the mixture for several hours to a day before testing.>
I will just have to find the right amount of distilled water to put in to keep my pH stable.
<Easier said than done. Remember to leave the water standing, and don't expect changes to be apparent in KH/GH tests immediately.>
Thanks

Apistogramma With Prolapsed Colon  - 03/25/2006
Hi, thanks for all the great information your site provides for the people like myself, it is much appreciated! I have the above mentioned fish in a 55 gallon, with an Apistogramma agazzi, 9 gold tetra's & 3 zebra loaches. All my levels are good, I do approximately 1/2 water changes every 2-3 weeks. I have noticed that the cacatuoides has somewhat stringy feces (not white but normal coloration) in the last few days and also has a reddish colored spiky looking protrusion from the anus (just slightly sticking out).  The behaviour of the fish seems the same, still swimming around like normal, energetic, good appetite, color is good. I want to make sure if there could be a problem I treat it right away, unfortunately I have not been able to find any information on this specific problem anywhere.  Any help you could provide would be very much appreciated. Troy
< The colon has been pushed out during a bowel movement. Watch so it doesn't get infected. Keep the water clean and place him in a hospital tank it get fungused and treat with Nitrofuranace. Try feeding smaller portions or a food with more fiber in it to make the event less traumatic.-Chuck>

In search of the Golden eye
Do you know where I can purchase golden eye cichlids?
<Sure do.  Nannacara anomala, or the Golden eye Cichlid is a rare and wonderful find.  You'll see them from time to time, but most mail order them from a cichlid specific source such as http://www.fishhead.com/.  If they're not in stock at this time of year, most e-tailers will hold one for you when it arrives.  Best of luck finding one! Ryan>
Teri Lutz

South American cichlid tank
Hello, Would like to get advice:  
<Great!  That's why were here :) >
Just recently bought a 20 gallon fish tank and would like to have South American Cichlids.  Can you please tell me how many of them I can keep in such a small tank?  
<Well, that really depends on what, specifically, you want.  For example, Oscars are SA cichlids, but I don't think you could fit one in a 20g with a shoehorn in one hand and a plunger in the other.  You've got lots and lots of options, though, as there are many SA cichlids that do stay quite small.>
And what kind do you think I should invest in.  
<My personal favorites are Apistogramma agassizii, A. cacatuoides, and Papilochromis (or is it Microgeophagus?) ramirezi (ram cichlids).  You could easily keep one breeding pair of dwarf cichlids in the 20g.  Which species you keep is largely a matter of your own personal taste.>
Also, what community fish can I keep?
<With the pair of cichlids, you could probably keep a very small handful of small schooling fish, something like neons, white clouds, or Hatchetfish.>
Thank you a lot. Claudia Cavazos
<Sure thing!  -Sabrina>

Sick Ram
I know this fish is very sensitive so do you think the pea method will work with a blue ram?  Tonight when I came home I noticed my blue ram bloated and looking distressed (dark in color)  he was held down from the top of the tank by sitting under the leaves of my artificial plant and he was leaning to one side.  I have isolated him in a holding tank within the same tank.  I did not
want to move him because I did not want to cause him more distress.  I also do not have another tank to move him to.  I just lost my female Kribensis to swim bladder a week ago.  My water quality is good and my ph is 7.0.  He is my favorite fish and I also lost my female ram last week to a fungus on the mouth.  
What a bad week to lose another fish.  My tank water has been good for a week.  I do not have tank problems of these types.  Unfortunately a busy week away left my ph level at 6.0 and I did do a 1/2 a tank water change 6 days ago and everything had been fine until tonight.  Any help would be sooo appreciated.   
Thank you,    
Debbie
<Hi Debbie, sorry about your losses.  I think your fish have problems that the pea method is not going to be able to fix, peas will help constipated fish get things moving again, but this sounds more serious.  We need to know your waters Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate levels.  If the other fish in your tank are being affected by the same problem I think it is related to either the PH swing that had occurred (6.0 to 7.0 is  a big change), or excess nitrites or nitrates.  I would go with small frequent water changes, no more than 1/3 of the tank volume, ever few days, and treatment with an antibiotic like Kanacyn, or Spectrogram.  Best of Luck, Gage>

Apistos, water chemistry, and leaf litter
Hello,
<Hi there, Sabrina here, today>
Recently I've read through articles dealing with the natural habitats of Apistos and such. they talk about how they more commonly live in dead leaf litters on the rivers bottoms. Is there anyway to artificially recreate these leaf litters? Most the articles I read dealt with using real leafs, while this sounded to be the best idea, it did sound as it would foul up the water chemistry quite a bit and make the tank a pain to clean regularly.
<As for fouling water chemistry, about the only thing that they will do is lower the pH - which would be desirable to Apistos.  As long as you boil the leaves before putting them in the tank, they should be okay.  But maintenance....  yeah, I can see where that would be a pain.>
I thought maybe using artificial leaves that you see around in the fall would work but I don't know if they would be safe.  Thank You.
<Check out the silk flower area of a craft store, see if they have any there.  it should be fine as long as there's no metal in the 'leaves', and the rest of it is inert, too.  I've known folks to make their own fake aquarium plants using silk plants from the craft store.  I still think it'd be tough to vacuum your gravel, though.>

Dwarf Cichlid aquarium
   I'm soon going to start a Dwarf cichlid tank in a 30 long aquarium. My question has to deal with substrate, I want to use a sand, preferably Black Tahitian Moon, but I also want to do most live plants in the tank,<Honestly. sand is a real hassle, especially with fish that will be moving around quite a bit. (they will stir it up and it will be a huge mess). I prefer a stony substrate when dealing with cichlids> is this this a good idea?<nope> Also about how much sand is it going to take to cover and fill the tank to the proper depth (tank is a freebie from my brother, he wasn't sure on the dimensions) also if I needed to could I "cut" the black moon with sand from a saltwater tank (which would be another freebie, but the tank had a fluorescent bulb break in it during transport, so it'd need to be cleaned). <I wouldn't go with the sand, Good luck with everything, IanB>                                                              
Thanks for your help

Dwarf Cichlids in a like-sized system
hey, it could always be worse, I dreamt last night that I was lying awake in bed and couldn't get to sleep...
<Seems reasonable>
besides, I wouldn't dream of stepping into Dr. Roy's shoes, he's only got about a 30 year leg up on me, besides being a TV star and all. ;) the BBC's doing another series that he'll be in, so when do we get to see you on the boob tube?
<I was on "People's Court" once. Lost>
on a different subject...I've decided against doing a nano tank at work but I'd still like something better to look at than the White Stucco Wall of Doom (since my request to move to a window seat was $^!# canned...). So, I have a spare 5.5g AGA bow front at home that I've equipped w/a 23w power fluorescent bulb in the 5000K color range. I was planning on doing a nano FW tank (now there's a switch) that's heavily planted. From what I understand my cousin wasn't able to maintain my old FW setup, and I'd like to rebuild the glory that was in miniature. I've been looking at the info onsite
about dwarf cichlids and it's kind of slim pickings.
<I encourage you to write up your endeavor, experiences for others, publish in the hobby 'zines, perhaps on WWM after>
I was thinking about a pair of Ram's or the Cockatoo Cichlids shown on the web page. Any
advice on plants, livestock, etc. more than welcome. filtration would be one of the small HOT filters and regular water changes.
<Take a look on Dennerle, esp. here: http://www.dennerle.de/ENGLISCH/e_frameset.htm re South American Tetra Tanks... and Tropica's http://www.tropica.com/default.asp listings of plants, requirements... Many ideas. I would use either the small Eheim hang-on, or the smallest Hagen HO power filter... possibly just a small inside power filter... Bob Fenner>
thanks again!
Mike

Re: Dwarf Cichlids in a like-sized system
Hi Bob, PF here.
I believe it was some months ago that you mentioned a friend/business acquaintance/some guy off the street (I can't remember) was going to do something involving injection molded plastic to
manufacture filters of an Ecosystemish nature. Any word on that?
<Was likely none other than Leng Sy, Ecosystem Aquarium of "Miracle Mud" fame. Was diving with him a couple weeks back in the Red Sea, and last month in Australia... and he did mention he was still investigating this hugely money-saving (in large volume piece manufacturing) possibility. I'll cc him here and see if he has an update. Bob Fenner, who had a daydream that you wrote a/the series monograph on the seven hundred plus species of stomatopods! Man, I used to dream about money and wimmen... oh well.>
Thanks Bob!
PF

Homemade Food
Anthony or Steve:
I have a pair of Bolivian rams (Microgeophagus altisponsa) in a heavily planted ten gallon with a pair of pygmy Corys (Corydoras pygmaeus). I will hopefully add another 4-6 pygmy Corys in the next few weeks, but no other fish. I have had the male Bolivian ram for about a year but I just purchased the female. She is pretty skinny (I think they had forgotten she was in the tank at the LFS; they certainly didn't know what she was) and he is just recovering from a bout of HITH (I have learned my lesson about going to college and leaving my fish at home). Anyways, I hope to eventually breed the Bolivians, so I want to get their weights back up over the next few months. Right now they are eating Omega One Natural Protein Formula in the AM and vitamin-soaked (Zoe and Zoecon) bloodworms, brine shrimp, and Whiteworms in the PM. 
<the Whiteworms will fatten them up quick, the brine shrimp is useless, and some more larvae would be nice for roe production in the female like frozen glassworms>
The female eats really well, but the male and the Corys are more reluctant. I make homemade mouse food so recently I decided I would like to try doing the same for the fish so I will have a good fresh food to use in addition to prepared foods. I checked out the recipe in TCMA, but it is for SW fish. Would it still be adequate for FW fish? 
<yes... very much so. Just adjust for your specific fishes needs (like adding more bloodworms, Daphnia, glassworms, etc)>
Is there a recipe for homemade food that would be healthy for both FW and SW fish? 
<its not FW vs. SW, but rather herbivore, omnivore and planktivore (or piscivore for the predators <wink>)>
For that matter, my fiancé and I use a vitamin supplement for the FW and SW fish, do we need to buy one for the FW tank and one for the SW (i.e., is there really any difference between FW Zoe and SW Zoe)? 
<little or none as I understand it>
Also, is there anything special I can do to encourage pair-bonding in the Bolivians? 
<yes... play Luther Vandross music by candle light>
Thank you so much!
<best regards, Anthony Calfo>

Cichlids and Aquarium Set-up
Dear Bob,
I actually have several questions. First, I want to set up a cichlid
tank. (I have done this before, but I experienced a few complications.) I
have a 55 gallon tank and, since I live near a beach, I went out and
collected my own driftwood for the tank. Now, I know I have to first boil
the driftwood before placing it in the tank. 
<Maybe more than this... I see you are considering South American, maybe just Dwarf Cichlids below...>
But I wanted to know how I
could go about anchoring the driftwood into the bottom of the tank, since it
floats. 
<A few ways... the simplest is to secure it (the driftwood) to something heavy and dense enough (like slate, shale... )drilled through and fitted with a brass screw... A good idea to really soak the wood... Please see: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/rkwduseaq.htm>
Second, I really am interested in maybe using South American
Cichlids (especially the Rams) instead of the African cichlids I had used
before. But I really haven't seen many around here. Any suggestions for
finding them? 
<Yes. Ask your local fish stores to special order them for you, and let them "harden" them by keeping them at the shop for a good week or two... Barring this, contact the etailers of such livestock (some are listed on the WetWebMedia.com Links Pages). Lastly, but not least importantly, do contact the American Cichlid Association (on the Net if you'd like) and their affiliate Clubs, possibly/hopefully in your region, and ask for their input, assistance>
I also wanted to know if locating the tank by a heater would
be a problem if the ambient temperature of my apartment is kept lower than
the desired temperature of the tank.
<Mmm, only way to really tell is to set up the system (w/o livestock) and experiment here. The temperature should not vacillate more than a couple of degrees Fahrenheit in a day/night. Bob Fenner>
Thank you for your time and help.
Sincerely,
Mel