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Astronotus ocellatus (Agassiz 1831), the
Oscar. To seventeen inches (45.7 cm). South America: Rio Amazonas basin
in Peru, Colombia, Brazil, Northern Paraguay and French Guiana.
Freshwater: pH range: 6.0 - 8.0; dH range: 5.0 - 19.0, temp. 22 -
25°C. Wild type at the Shedd Aq. 2015
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Doing what it takes to keep Bettas healthy long-term
by Robert (Bob) Fenner
African butterfly fish 9/19/18
You previously said about a fish losing its colour being bad my ABF
occasionally loses some of its, about 2 months ago I had a problem while
on holiday with an auto feeder over feeding my tank and not working
<Yikes! They're a bit of a menace, to be honest. If you're gone less
than two weeks, best simply not to feed your fish. Anything over that,
have a friend add a tiny bit of food once or twice a week. Large fish
(big catfish for example) can go 4-6 weeks without food without any
health problems at all.>
My ABF now seems to be very skittish it was grumpy before a bit but just
seemed like it’s personality as was eating aggressively from the food
hole where I drop it in but it now seems scared and runs when I put food
in or take the lid off, if the lights are off and the aquarium is closed
it will eat a bit but is hard to monitor how much it is eating is there
any solution to maybe why the fish is so scared, hope this is clear
thank you for the help
<Sometimes fish become skittish if their environment has changed. Check
water quality in particular, as non-zero ammonia and nitrite levels will
certainly be registered as 'threats' by your fish (a bit like the smell
of burning to humans) and they become more anxious and won't eat. Do
also check the pH hasn't suddenly changed, as that will also cause fish
to become nervous. African Butterflyfish are jumpy fish, particularly in
small tanks or tanks with bright lights and no shade, so review and act
accordingly. Do also check diet: while a varied diet of frozen foods or
good quality pellets/flake should provide all the right nutrients, a
monotonous diet or one including live feeders can introduce health
problems, including thiamine deficiency and parasites of various kinds.
Finally, look how any tankmates are behaving, including at night. While
some barbs and tetras will nip at African Butterflyfish during the day,
there are some nocturnal species, notably Synodontis, that can
occasionally nibble at their fins during the night. So again, review and
Apistogramma; head down 9/17/18
I have a dwarf cockatoo cichlid that has been breeding recently the last batch
of fry were about 2-4 weeks ago but on the last week he has been acting strange
by going vertical as the picture shows Amy ideas why he is behaving like this.
<I'm surprised if this fish is still alive by the time you get my message, to be
honest. Usually this darkening colour and spiraling loss of control implies
severe stress, if not imminent death. If the fish is still alive, I'd be doing
the following: First, isolate from the other fish (probably best to remove that
one, rather than stress the sick fish; if all else fails, a floating breeding
trap can be used to confine the healthy fish for a few days). Second, ensure
water quality excellent, with low nitrate and generous oxygenation. Thirdly, if
after a few hours of improved conditions, the fish becomes more active and shows
some signs of looking better, then medicating with Metronidazole would probably
be a good idea. It's as close to a cure-all as there is for cichlids, covering a
variety of possible problems.>
<Dwarf cichlids can be easily stressed, often by increasing temperatures,
dropping oxygen, and/or elevated nitrate level. In addition, any sort of
accidentally dissolved toxins, such as household solvents and aerosol sprays,
including things like insecticide, can cause immediate stress and/or death. I've
seen this myself with Nanochromis when placing a small piece wood into their
tank that came from a garden that had, without my knowledge, been recently
sprayed with weed killer. The pair of cichlids were dead within 20 minutes. If
just the one fish is sick, and the other fine, then still keep an open mind, but
do review environment, and think about how/why this particular fish might be
stressed. Let me make an additional point -- Apistogramma aren't really
"pairing" fish in the wild, most, perhaps all, are harem spawners to some
degree. Usually the female guards the fry, while the male will defend a
territory containing the smaller territories of one or several females. The
upshot of this is that female sometimes decide the male is a threat, and will
shoo him away. In a big tank, or the wild, that's fine, and he'll scoot off; but
in small tanks, say, a 10 gallon breeding tank, she might decide that the male
is still too close to her brood. She can then become very aggressive, harassing,
even killing, the male. Review, an act accordingly. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Apistogramma 9/17/18
I am putting the fish in a breeding net as instructed, u said would die soon the
fish has been like this and it’s colours for a while on further inspection it is
the behind of the fish floating up causing him to be vertical
<Obviously such behaviour is not normal, and must have some underlying cause.
Constipation can cause fish to lose balance, but their colours generally remain
normal and their behaviour doesn't change otherwise. So review my last message
as a starting point, and act accordingly. Cheers, Neale.>
RED EARED SLIDER TURTLE NEEDS YOUR HELP ASAP 9/16/18
My six year old grandson's turtles are in my care as his parents won't allow the
turtle at their house and I desperately need your advice and help. I don't know
what I am doing although I am trying.
Attached are pictures of the turtle in question.
<I see them.>
Two turtles were purchased as hatchlings in January, 2018. One grew normally and
is a 4 to 5 inches and the other is only two inches and has developed a
growth on the side of its face.
<I see this. My gut feeling is goiter -- or goiter in American English -- which
is usually caused by poor diet; specifically, a lack of iodine. Is this common
in turtles? No. But it does happen, especially if the turtles are fed
exclusively on a monotonous diet. Iodine is most abundant in sea algae, such as
the Nori sheets sold in Asian food markets for making sushi rolls, and for many
pet animals, this is by far the cheapest green food to give them if you want a
safe amount of iodine in their diet. Meaty seafood will contain some iodine too,
particularly filter-feeding mollusks such as clams, mussels and cockles. Good
quality dried turtle foods (such as ReptoMin) and good quality herbivorous fish
foods (such as Koi pellets) should contain enough iodine for pet turtles, so if
you've been using these, a goiter isn't very likely. Can I stress though that
once the goiter is apparent, simply fixing the diet is unlikely to help by
itself. At the very least, an iodine supplement should be provided as per the
manufacturer's instructions; ideally, and most effectively, a vet will prescribe
appropriate medications and/or provide injections of the right amount of iodine
I read that because they are the same species that one is dominant and the
reason for the one with the growth not growing at the same speed as the other.
<While this is (sometimes) true when you have two sexually mature adult males,
juveniles shouldn't really be causing any real problems.>
I followed the instructions and separated them immediately, new tank (one 50 gal
and one 20 gal) heat lamp on 24/7 and UVB lamp on 10 to 12 hrs a day plus
basking pad, etc. in each tank.
<This is, of course, the other obvious possibility, a metabolic bone disorder.
Provided turtles are getting a good diet (specifically, something with calcium
in it) as well as a UV-B source, then such problems are
normally rare. Calcium should be present in good quality staple foods (ReptoMin,
Koi Pellets, etc.) but may also be supplemented with a calcium-rich powder
that's dusted on fresh foods. You can even offer small bits of cuttlebone for
them to chew on. UV-B tubes are excellent, but they do have a life span, most
'wearing out' in 6-12 months. So that's worth bearing in mind when trying to
figure out what's happened here.>
Any advice and help you can provide me would be greatly appreciated.
<Realistically, it's hard to be sure if goiter, metabolic bone disorder, even
bad genes are to blame here. If the turtle is otherwise happy and healthy, and
there are no other signs of infection (such as smell shell,
puffy eyes, wheezy breathing, etc.) I'd perhaps focus on the iodine, calcium,
and UV-B angles first, and if there's a shortcoming in that direction, see if
the turtle improves once you fix the problem. But if the
turtle has other health problems or symptoms, I'd definitely go visit a vet as
soon as practical.>
<Good luck, Neale.>
Re: RED EARED SLIDER TURTLE NEEDS YOUR HELP ASAP 9/16/18
Neale, Thank you very much for your prompt reply.
I found it most helpful and will definitely follow your advice.
I do have ReptoMin but the little turtle prefers Aquatic Turtle food with added
vitamins and minerals - the hatchling formula.
<Sounds a fine staple, but I would also add some fresh greens periodically --
starving the pellets for days if not weeks if such are ignored. Goldfish weed,
sold cheaply by the bunch, is a good choice. Some cuttlebone, or even unshelled
shrimp, now and again provides useful calcium.>
It is also a fussy eater contrary to the other turtle that was obtained at the
same time. Also, the other turtle is a normal size for its age, is a good eater,
etc. Thank you again for the great service you provide.
<Good luck! Neale.>
Re: some mudskipper questions 9/16/18
I was looking on feeding options for my mudskipper tank and happened on
2 species which might even survive in there: Palaemon varians which is a
brackish shrimp (sold as river shrimps here) and Gammarus oceanicus
which is a gamble, they are a marine species of scud but some sources
say it can be fine in brackish. I am thinking if going for a salinity of
sg 1.007 and a temperature of 24 degrees Celsius. Can either of them
survive in these conditions?
<Salinity will be fine for Palaemon varians for sure, and probably
Gammarus oceanicus long enough for the Mudskippers to find and eat them.
I'd be offering the Gammarus just a handful at a time, keeping the
others in a cold, fully marine bucket or even nano aquarium until
required. Now, the Palaemon varians are a bit more durable, and they're
often sold in the UK as live food. They will live some days in tropical
conditions, and indefinitely at room temperature. Nonetheless, you will
want to remove any dead ones before they decay.>
Also i am looking for plants to grow emersed, so far i have found, java
fern and red mangroves. Unfortunately the mangroves will need to be
replaced as they grow too big. (Bonsai techniques seem impossible with
them.) I may be able to also get seeds of a Japanese Salicornia sp. I
wonder if that is an option?
<It is entirely possible to make the vivarium a freshwater system as far
as the plants go, and that opens up the option for all sorts of
Epiphytes are ideal, as these can be attached to bogwood and rocks, and
misted with freshwater as needed, without worrying about their roots
being in brackish water. Otherwise you can glue or wedge small pots into
the bogwood, and again, that keeps their roots away from the brackish
water at the bottom of the tank. I've even seen Nepenthes pitcher plants
in these sorts of tanks! So instead of growing plants up from the
bottom, you're growing trailing plants and vines that go downwards. But
the key thing will be that there needs to be a basin of some sort in the
vivarium that has brackish water in it. Your Mudskippers will visit the
brackish water as/when needed, and have no problems at all handling
freshwater misting inside the vivarium. Hope this helps, Neale.>
Epistylis on crawfish 9/14/18
Hi, my name is Susan, i have 6 Louisiana swamp crawfish that i rescued from one
of our crawfish boils. In the last month they have developed a white fuzz all
over them. the best i can tell from all the internet searching is that it is
Epistylis. But i cant find anything on treating it. 3 of the crawfish are
berried and some of the eggs on 1 also has the fuzz. Please advise on how to get
rid of it. My perimeters are all good, and i do monthly water changes.
<Epistylis spp. are commensals, not parasites, so while they might be
unattractive to look at, they don't do any actual harm. However, because they
grow in water with plenty of planktonic algae and bacteria that they can feed
on, they're seen as indicators of poor environmental conditions.
More specifically, high levels of organic material and mineral nutrients in the
water. So your best approach to tackling them is two-fold. First, find out how
to improve ambient conditions. More water changes/removal of uneaten food, more
filtration, and less (wasted) food would all be part of this. Secondly,
understand that since these ciliate Protozoans are attached to the exoskeleton
of the crayfish, they will be "shed" during successful molting, in which case
quick disposal of the old exoskeleton would be helpful. I would remind you of
the need for iodine in the diet to ensure successful molting (for some reason
moults frequently fail under aquarium conditions otherwise) and also for a
source of calcium, such as unshelled shrimp, if you're going to remove the old
moult (crayfish normally consume the moult, in part, to recycle the minerals).
You could also try medications used against other ciliates (such as Velvet and
Whitespot) but they are likely to be toxic to crayfish unless clearly stated as
invertebrates" on the packaging. Cheers, Neale.>
Mystery Snails and Fish 9/13/18
Hi WWM Crew,
I have two Golden Mystery Snails and I am quite interested in stocking
fish with them. I have a 10 gallon tank and my snails are thriving,
however, after reading through these forums I have seen that you do not
recommend stocking fish with Mystery Snails. My original intentions were
to create a self-sustaining ecosystem by adding a mixture of snails,
shrimp, and fish, but after watching my little guys thrive and reading
through your forums I am nervous to do so. Should I throw away my idea
of a self-sustaining
ecosystem, or can I still stock fish with my snails? I would even be
willing to cut it down to one fish as long as I was confident my snails
would be alright and my efforts weren't wasted.
Thank you very very much,
<Hello Maddy. Apple or Mystery Snails are easiest kept alone. They will
grow steadily and feed happily, and as/when they lay eggs, you might be
lucky enough to have a few young snails to grow on! As you may already
know, Mystery Snails sometimes struggle to live for more than a year in
an aquarium, perhaps because they don't experience the 'resting phase'
they would normally have in the wild, but if you're lucky these snails
can live for 4-5 years. So far, so good. Now, when it comes to adding
fish, you've got some challenges. Usually the fish pose the threat.
Active fish (like tetras and barbs) peck at the Mystery Snails more out
of curiosity than anything else, especially the tentacles. Any slight
damage becomes infected, and before you know it, the snail gets sick and
dies. Some fish simply view snails as food, though admittedly Mystery
Snails are a bit big for casual predation in most cases. But even
relatively small loaches and catfish will consume Mystery Snail babies.
Occasionally you hear stories of
certain Apple Snail species catching and eating small fish. While that
doesn't sound terribly likely where armoured or midwater fish are being
kept, slow moving or dozy species that hang about at the bottom,
especially while sleeping, might be more at risk. Hard to say. But in
any event, you can probably get the sense from me that Pomacea spp.
snails aren't ideal companions for fish. It's certainly been done, with
Corydoras and Whiptail species being especially good, being completely
harmless but also heavily
armoured, so neither species poses a threat to the other. A singleton
Betta might work, too. Snails and shrimps has been done, but again,
there's a risk they'll pick at the snails, damaging them in the process.
Certainly no guarantees it'll be safe. Let me also stress the fact you
10 gallon tank is rather small, and while perfect for snails, it's a bit
small for most fish. Very few of the commonly traded community species
are truly happy in 10 gallons.
So really, if this tank works, I'd leave it the way it is. Cheers,
Re: Mystery Snails and Fish 9/14/18
Thank you for the reply Neale!
I don't quite want to add a Betta, I've been watching it pick at my
friend's Nerite snails to no avail and I can only imagine what it will
do to my poor Mysteries!
<Indeed. It's a crapshoot, as the Americans like to say.>
Although his tank setup is only a 2.5 gal (of which I had advised
against based off what he had stocked it with) and mine is a 10 gal, I
still worry about the Betta choosing to pick on them.
<It can happen. Depends a lot on the Betta. Most are pretty passive, but
Apple Snail tentacles are fascinating to watch, and perhaps nibble on,
especially if you're a bored little fishy!>
I could be wrong as it is a bigger tank but I am one to play things
safe. I may end up adopting his snails as well, I worry for them very
<They're very well worth keeping alone. Full size adults are dramatic
and impressive pets, and kept singly or in groups, they're pretty low
maintenance. There's a website called AppleSnail.net that provides lots
of info; well worth a visit.>>
Thank you for the advice, I think my snails will be happy alone with
lots of room :)
There is no way to do a safe divided tank for Bettas is there?
I have a 10 gallon tank with one male Betta. He looks kinda small in there.
There is all this info on the net about divided tanks, but they seem not to be
long term things even though people seem to claim that they are.
<Can be long or short term; medium even>
We have Lexam <likely Lexan> here, it is 1/8th thick and a Plexiglas type thing,
but people say that silicone doesn't adhere well against glass.
<Actually, well enough inside a tank... not for adhering a plexi tank together
Glass that fits the tank perfectly can't be drilled it seems or it will shatter
and if not the fish could really see each other leading to stress, plus needing
another filter for the other side. Someone said plastic egg crate material with
screen around it, but if it ever fell down in the tank, the Bettas would have at
it to the death. So does anyone do this type of thing to a ten gallon for two
Bettas or is it just better to get an extra tank? Thank you
<I'm all for innovation here... One can stand up a "hurricane lamp cover", w/
one inside and one out, situate a piece of glass or plexi diagonally that will
fit close enough to keep each other on a side... There are commercial tank
dividers that work well enough... Try Googling; here's one on Amazon:
Parrot fish gill issue? 9/13/18
I hope you can forgive me.
I’m not to tech savvy with forums. I need help. I have a parrot fish
that has some sort of red worm looking things in her gills.
<Mmm; all I can see are the fish's gill lamellae, the outside gill
filaments... No worms in evidence>
I’ve had two parrots years ago. I don’t remember them having gills like
this one. She was given to me by a neighbor that had to move.
I don’t know her history. She seems pale but healthy ,sassy and fun. I’d
like to her help if this gill issue is not normal.
Thank you so very much,
<Thank you for sharing your concern w/ us. This sort of "genetic
abnormality" is quite common w/ Parrot Cichlids; a hallmark of too much
inbreeding of this hybrid mutant. There is nothing to be done in the way
of treatment here, and the fish may well live a good long while. There
can be a concern w/ having too-aggressive tankmates nipping at the
exposed gill membrane, but otherwise I would not be worried.
Re: Parrot fish gill issue? 9/13/18
Thank you so much!
I’ll just let her enjoy life. She’s pretty much left to herself. So
hopefully no nip‘ will take place. Thank you for these tips and the fast
<Ah, anima bona fac; be of good life>
Betta; investigation re hlth., beh.
My male Betta is about a year old with long flowing fins. At least he
did, he keeps eating them. So I started him in a bowl about 9 months
ago, and noticed he was sad.
<Yes; Bettas need a heated, filtered world of a few gallons volume>
I put him in a 10 gallon tank by himself at first after 3 months. Then,
I added 3 ADFs. All was well until 2 of them died in June, one from
malnutrition I think and the other because the tank water got dirty as
the other decomposed (I was on vacation for 3 days). The last frog
survived and once I cleaned the tank and water I put them together in
the tank. The frog started chasing my Betta around, nipping his tail.
Then I noticed the Betta biting his own tail. I was told by a friend to
put more frogs in the tank, so the remaining frog would leave my Betta
Well his tail bites got so severe from his own stressful biting I
decided to get a tank separator. The frog is on one third side, the
Betta has two thirds to himself. It's been about a week and a half and
I'm noticing more bite rips in his tail. The water parameters are safe
for both of them, no ammonia.
<Nor nitrite... how much nitrate? Water hardness, pH? Temperature...
steady, high? What foods are you using?>
The two are separated. There are plenty of plants and huts for my Betta
to hide in.
I cant understand why he'd still be stressed! All of these events
happened over months, not all in one week. There are no back to back
factors of stress to cause this. I just really don't want my Betta to
eat his tail away. Please help me if you can!
<Please respond to my questions above, and send along a cropped pic of
Re Betta <39 megs!> 9/13/18
<You've crashed our ISP server... PLEASE see our file size requirements...
hundreds of Kbytes... B>
Re: Betta 9/13/18
Are these okay? Does the whole email have to be less than 500kb or just
each picture? I'm sorry for the inconvenience, I wasn't clear on the
<Ah, yes; these are fine; thank you>
I'm responding with all the answers to your questions. The temperature stays
steady usually, give or take one or two degrees.
Their tank is heated
The nitrate is up, but it is time to do my weekly water change which I am about
to do. The nitrate is usually steady, but I admit I haven't seen it like before.
<Do strive to keep below 20 ppm>
The pH is 7.6, ammonia is 0, nitrite is 0, and nitrate is 20. The picture makes
it look darker. I have attached pictures of the food, the water tests as of now,
the tank, my Betta, and the temp.
The tank looks more roomy than it actually is.
Thank you, Savannah
<I would add a bit of fresh, or frozen food to the diet; perhaps just
frozen/defrosted brine shrimp every other day. Otherwise, time going by should
find improvement here Sav. BobF>
My Betta; /Sav 9/19/18
I emailed a few days ago about my Betta and followed it up with pictures after
asked to. I haven't received any word back yet and I was wondering if you found
any answers. My Betta ripped his tail yet again. I'm really worried about his
safety. The rips are getting close to his body.
Thank you, Savannah
<Yes Savannah; I did respond... Our corr. is archived here:
Scroll down... Bob Fenner>
Blue crawfish has a large, misty eye
Hi, I recently moved into college and started up a 10g tank for a
crawfish. Sal is an electric blue, around 2 inches, obtained from a
nearby pet store, and he’s been in the tank around two weeks.
About a week ago, his left eye started getting cloudy. If it was both
then I’d be pretty sure he was molting, but there’s been no change
anywhere else… And today I noticed the eye is getting more milky white
and may even be getting larger? Is there something I can do? I don’t
want anything bad to happen to him when he’s so new to the tank.
<Mmm; perhaps a physical injury... something infectious secondarily>
Water quality seems good. Hard, 100ish alkalinity (ppm) and pretty much
exactly neutral. I have just heard of the iodine for a tank
<Yes; Iodide-ate use I'd apply every weekly maintenance routine; after
partial water changes>
What should I do for his eye? He’s getting a bit more reclusive now and
I’m afraid he’s losing his vision in the eye.
<I'd double dose the Iodide for now; and try not to worry. Likely
whatever the issue is, it will be resolved w/ the next molt.>
If you have any more questions you can reply to this email or call XXXX.
Please leave a voicemail if I don’t answer.
<Do read over our articles on Crayfish on WWM. Bob Fenner>
Aging Betta to new environment? 9/3/18
Good evening, Crew!
<Good morrow Kara!>
I have a question about whether or not moving an aging Betta to a new
environment is a good thing to do.
Flash, the Betta, (male) has been with us for just over 2 years. We purchased
him (rescued from one of those wretched cups) to be the centerpiece fish of a
planted 60 gallon aquarium. The tank is densely
planted, furnished with sprawling branchy driftwood, and large chunks of
granite. Current tank specs: Ammonia: 0, Nitrite 0, Nitrate 20, Ph 7.6. Temp
His tankmates are peaceful, but are rather more boisterous than he seems to be
comfortable with now: A pearl Gourami and his harem of 3, 4 active but old
smallish, but active (letting them "age out") schools of harlequin rasboras,
black neon tetras, white cloud minnows, and Glowlight tetras, with several
Corydoras and Kuhli loaches at the bottom, with many years to go.
<Sounds/reads as very nice indeed>
Flash still has a tenuous position as "boss" of the tank, but I think he is
getting tired of it. He spends more and more time hiding behind the Vallisneria
in the corner, when he is not flaring at everyone at feeding
time so that he still gets the first bite. He is still in the pink of health,
although obviously getting old. He's slowing down and no longer patrols the tank
as he used to. I may be anthropomorphizing, but to my
mind, he deserves and needs a quiet, cozy cottage on a cul-de-sac for his
<I understand; in fact, am feeling about the same way m'self>
I want to/feel I should move him, but don't know if it would shock him too much
at his age. (My other 3 community tanks have resident Bettas already, so that's
out.) The only other possible home I have for him is a 5.5 gallon lightly
planted tank that currently houses a trio of African Dwarf frogs.
Current specs: Ammonia: 0 Nitrites:0 Nitrate:5 Ph:7.4 Temp 80. I don't worry
about the tank specs for him so much as the shock of going from a 60 gallon
world full of fish to a 5.5 gallon world with creatures he has never seen
before. Would that be too much of a change?
<Actually; I'm quite confident that this change would be greatly beneficial for
your Betta. A smaller, bit warmer world will be easier to navigate (and rule),
and the frogs will be good company>
Should I leave him where he is? Could he adapt at his age?
<I would move this fish; and yes>
He is getting less respect and deference from the mates in the 60 gallon, I
don't want him to eventually be cowed into a corner to die, but I fear such a
drastic change might harm him, too. What do you think? Old fishy psychology is
not exactly my area of expertise...
Thanks in advance,
<Thank you for sharing. Bob Fenner>
Re: Aging Betta to new environment?
<Hey Kara; good morrow to you>
I appreciate the quick response, and was tickled to death to have a response
from THE Mr. Fenner, himself, no less! (squeee!)
I just wanted to thank you for your good advice and give you an update!
"Flash" the Betta has practically been reborn since moving him from the 60
gallon to that tiny little 5.5 gallon tank-o-froggies. Here, I was, so worried
that such a radical change at his advancing age would stress him to death!
<Very good; and, as expected>
He was plenty mystified by the frogs, at first, although the general venue
seemed to please him well. He took the abrupt plunking into the new tank in his
stride, poking at every leaf and blade, and measuring the tank perimeter
straightaway. He really likes the frogbit overhead.
<Oh yes; more like their natural habitat>
He has since become accustomed to his eccentric room mates, although I must
admit to a hearty chuckle or two at his expense in the meantime. I wish I had
thought to take a video of him on this one occasion- picture this, if you will:
Flash is creeping slowly along on his belly, trailing millimeters behind a very
untidy 3-way amplexus of silly frogs as it bumbled around the tank. When that
wad-o-froggies stopped still for a moment, Flash flared at them, and seemed
totally perplexed as to why his magnificent display failed to impress. He came
waggling up to my laughing face, then resumed trailing them, nervously glancing
forward and back. Funny!
Flash has now constructed 2 different bubble nests, on each end of the tank, is
very interactive, and has really has become his old self again.
Thanks again for your kind reply to my little dilemma!
<Glad to assist you>
Sincerely, and with great admiration for your knowledge of all things fishy,
<I washed Betta bowls for a few years; B. splendens has always been a fave.
Orange scales now with black tips on goldfish
I am writing to ask of is normal that an Orange carassius can turn its scales
with black tips?, I don’t really know of it is normal. Please see the
<Have seen your excellent pix; not only the edge-darkened scales, but apparent
"pine coning" of the flank scales is worrisome. There are a few possible causes,
influences here, but water quality and nutrition I should mention. Your goldfish
may have an internal bacterial infection; but this is caused by something/s
amiss w/ foods and/or aspects of the environment. Please do check re the
presence of ammonia, nitrite in particular, and switch to a near all plant
matter diet for the next few weeks. Take a look on WWM and the Net re pine-cone
disease as well>
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Bilbao #3836, Santiago
Re: Orange scales now with black tips on goldfish
Thank you very much for your kind and quick reply. I will proceed following your
<Ahh; do take heart Luis. These "dropsy" cases can be cured in time>
<And you, Bob Fenner>
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