Follow up question after research (RMF, does Photo_111909_003.jpg look familiar?)  11/20/09 <<Does... microbial of some sort, as you state. B>> After searching the web, I found one brief reference on your website to "circular white spots with hollow center" that I believe applies to my problem. (See Re: Freshwater Community Tank 7/9/09, answered by Neale) This exchange what makes me believe what we have is a fungus, but I don't see a confirmation of what kind & what the harm may be nor how to treat. <They do look like either fungal or bacterial moulds. Not sure which. But either way, does imply pretty ghastly conditions inside the tank in terms of filtration. Fungi and bacteria feed on organic matter, and to get colonies as obvious as this takes some doing!> We have a 135gal tank that's been set up for approx 60 days that started an algae growth. The odd thing is what you will see in the photos...those white circular patches which appear on every surface & appear to be clearing/eating the algae. We are not new to fish keeping but this is a new problem for us & we want to treat it correctly. <I have never seen anything like this before. It certainly isn't common!> We only have two Severums & a Gourami in there right now, so it is definitely not overstocked/overfed. <And yet something is feeding these fungi/bacteria...> We have cut the lights way back & cleaned the front of the tank so we could see in! The concern is that it is a fungus or something harmful to the fish. They still appear healthy. <Unlikely to be directly harmful, but it's worth mentioning that things like Aeromonas spp. bacteria that break down organic matter under normal circumstances can become pathogens when the immune system of fish becomes compromised. So again, there's an issue here that needs to be resolved.> Will just cleaning & controlling the algae get rid of the problem or do we need to use some other treatment? <I'd take a long, hard look at the system. I'd check a few things. Is the filter turnover rate adequate to the size of the tank? For big fish like yours, that's something upwards of 6 times the volume of the tank in turnover per hour. Does the filter have enough useful media? Carbon and zeolite are largely redundant in systems of this type, but biological and mechanical media are important, and both should be cleaned/replaced on a regular basis (every 6 weeks or so, perhaps more often if the filter clogs up quickly). How deep is the substrate? Unless you have an undergravel filter or are growing plants with roots (pointless with Severums, but I'd mention it) then the gravel need only be just deep enough to cover the glass. Anything above that can trap faeces, uneaten food, etc. Is there anything "rotten" in the tank? A classic source of fungi is non-cured bogwood; as the wood decays, fungi sprout. Is the water silty? If you're using sand rather than gravel, if the sand wasn't cleaned well, silt gets trapped on everything, making things look white and murky.> Thank you! Julie <Cheers, Neale.>

Mollie with distended bowel still moving though not much  11/20/09
Hi, fed my fish as usual this morning went past the tank a few hours late to discover m big molly upside down in the plants with a very distended bowel have had all the fish in the tank for around three years with no problems except for 2 silver sharks that kept jump out of the tank to their eventual demise...I am really worried about my molly what if anything can I do????
Ren
<Hello Ren. Mollies are sensitive fish that need very specific conditions to do well. They need warm (28+ C) water with a high hardness (15+ degrees dH) and a basic pH (7.5-8.2). The addition of marine salt mix, while not absolutely essential, is usually a very good idea; 3-9 grammes/litre works well. They need quite big tanks to do well, nothing less than 90 litres, and realistically 110 litres or more for the bigger Sailfin Molly species. Water quality must be excellent: 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, and nitrate levels below 20 mg/l. Do read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/mollies.htm
You haven't provided me with any useful data here, so I can't offer any better advice than this. Read through what's needed, and if you want to discuss further, write back. While I suspect this fish is doomed, it's as well to know how to keep Mollies so this doesn't happen again. Cheers, Neale.>

Re: Mollie with distended bowel still moving though not much  11/20/09
Thank you Neale for you advise, unfortunately my molly did die, but thank you for the extra info.
<Happy to help.>
My fish are in a 90 litre tank, water temp is around 26-27 C. At the moment the pH is around 6.6 which isn't to good I now I have made adjustments though,
<Far too low for Mollies, and almost certainly the problem. An acidic pH implies soft water, and soft water is lethal to Mollies. Don't change the pH without changing the hardness. This is a common mistake people make. They buy " pH up" and "pH down" products, thinking these will make everything okay. They do not. These products are intended to be used as buffers -- chemicals that stabilise pH -- alongside changes in water chemistry. In the case of Mollies, hardening the water by adding a Rift Valley salt mix is cheaper, safer, and better.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWsubwebindex/fwh2oquality.htm
Alternatively, convert the aquarium to a brackish water aquarium at around SG 1.005; if you use marine salt mix to do this at 9 grammes/litre, the pH and hardness will be taken care of automatically.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/BrackishSubWebIndex/bracsystems.htm
>
in the tank there are the mollies, and clown loaches and leopard catfish.
<Neither of these tolerate brackish water, and both will do better on soft water than hard water. As should be clear: Mollies cannot be added to soft water communities, and are best kept with species that prefer (or at least tolerate) similar conditions.>
The mollies and loaches are quite big now had them since the were very small guys. Would it still be suitable to add the marine salt with the other types
of fish in the tank as well??
<No.>
thanks again
Ren
<Cheers, Neale.>

Re: Mollie with distended bowel still moving though not much  11/20/09
Hi Again
I know this will sound very amateurish but what is hard water?
Ren;
<This is in the article I mentioned, here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWsubwebindex/fwh2oquality.htm
Hard water is water with a lot of dissolved minerals in it. There are two types of hardness aquarists measure: General Hardness (degrees dH) and Carbonate Hardness (and degrees KH). Each is important, but measuring general hardness alone is usually good enough if you also know that the pH stays around 7.5 from week to week. Typically, this is the kind of water that furs up kettles and is good for brewing beer. If you are using a washing machine, you need to add extra washing powder because hard water doesn't lather easily. But for fishkeeping, it is ideal for a wide range of fish, including livebearers, Goldfish, and many (though not all) cichlids. Because marine salt mix contains chemicals that harden water and raise pH, brackish water aquaria are hard water aquaria automatically, and so are ideal tanks for keeping Mollies. Cheers, Neale.>

Please help! I cant diagnose what's wrong with my goldfish. The usual lack of reading, data    11/20/09
Please help me.
<Will certainly try.>
I've been having a lot of problems with my goldfish recently.
<Almost always come down to the environment; or more specifically, the fishkeeper making unwise decisions.>
And can't seem to find a solution to my problem.
<Let's see if we can do any better.>
I used to have just 3 goldfish (of which I have had for a few years) and all were healthy.
<Don't forget these fish grow. Since they live for up to 30 years, and in that time get to more than 30 cm in length from babies only a few mm long, as the years pass, the workload on the filter and aquarium gets greater. A tank that works for a couple of baby Goldfish 3 or 4 cm long will be hopelessly overstocked by the time they're a couple of years old and pushing 10-15 cm in length. Hence the observation that everything was fine for a few years, but now everything is going wrong. So let me direct you to this article that summarised what you need to know:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/goldfish101art.htm
Deviate from the recommendations there, and you'll be setting the stage for trouble. I draw your particular attention to aquarium size, filtration, diet, and water chemistry.>
Till one day one of them died and I decided to get 3 of those goldfish that are like janitor fish along with 6 other goldfish.
<No such thing as a "Janitor Fish". Anything anyone sells you to "clean up" your aquarium is a con trick. I'm guessing these are the golden morph of Gyrinocheilus aymonieri, a big, aggressive, tropical fish that has NO business being kept with Goldfish.>
One of the janitor fish died that night and later on in the week I lost 3 more of my new fish. Then the smaller one of my old fish started to look sickly with a darkening face and died. Then another of the new fish died leaving only 2 new ones left and my large old one. I soon realized, that my big old fish had white spots on its head as well as a reddening tail, as well as a few bites on its body from the gold janitor fish.
<As is their wont. Gyrinocheilus aymonieri is a very bad fish for tanks like this for multiple reasons. In some cases, yes, they will attack slow-moving fish and feed on the mucous. This is most common when the aquarist has no idea what Gyrinocheilus needs to eat, so the poor Gyrinocheilus is half-starved, and forced to try out other ways of feeding.
But they are also aggressive fish, and will buffet (rather than bite) rivals.>
I then went to some fish specialists and they told me that my big fish was sick with white spot disease and that the gold janitor fish were biting him because he is ill.
<Doesn't sound much of a diagnosis to me. Whitespot (Ick) is very specific, and looks like salt grains on the fins and skin. It's easily treated, and generally shouldn't kill fish. Bloody sores, shredded fins and so on are likely to be Finrot, and this is indeed triggered by physical damage (as well as poor water quality).>
They gave me some medicine called TCD to treat it and to separate my janitor fish and gold fish. I did as I was told and the next day I came home to find that all my fish had bloodshot red vein like looking tails and fins, and the fins started looking shredded as if it was disintegrating and getting shorter.
<Finrot.>
I called the specialists and they told me to take out half of my water and replace it with a new batch.
<Is this really what they said? Or what you think they said? Sounds pretty dumb to me. Water quality is critical to avoiding Finrot, but once established, you have to medicate, and if you're doing that, you DO NOT do water changes until the course of medication is concluded (see the instructions that came with whatever medication you're using).>
I did so and since then their fins and tails seemed to stop disintegrating.
Apart from my big old one as he now almost has stubs for fins and his tail is so red and shorter. I am really worried as this is my oldest fish. And the white spots that were on its head have now seemed to scabbed over or something as the spots look slightly brown. Another worrying thing is that my big old fish has scratches all over its body and his face is darkening to an almost purple red colour and some scales seem to be missing and the fish looks paler than usual. In addition to that all of my fish including my big old one have started doing some crazy swimming in continuous patters.
<Dying.>
The big one keeps swimming round the whole tank and under the filter where it gets pushed by the water and another fish keeps swimming up and down and the other just stays still. I find this very strange and worrying.
<I'd say!>
I really love my fish and I have done some research but I cant seem to diagnose what is wrong. And another thing is that the water has gone a milky colour even though I changed it a day ago.
<Bacterial bloom... again, tends to imply chronically poor conditions.>
I don't know whether or not I should keep medicating them.
<Don't know where to start answering this! You have a huge problem here.
Likely an overstocked tank that is inadequately filtered, so if that's the case, you'll need to upgrade the tank and upgrade the filter. If you are dealing with Finrot, you need to treat appropriately (e.g., with Maracyn, Paraguard, eSHa 2000 but not junk like Melafix or salt). You have to follow the instructions on those medications *to the letter* paying particular attention to things like when to do water changes and whether you need to remove carbon, if used (carbon removes medications). Obviously, Gyrinocheilus aymonieri cannot be kept with Goldfish, so these species need their own, appropriately large, aquaria. Three Goldfish need, let's say, 30 gallons, and Gyrinocheilus aymonieri isn't suitable for tanks less than 55 gallons, and even then, just one specimen alongside semi-aggressive, fast-moving tankmates, such as Central American cichlids.>
Please help me and my fish.
<I want to, but I'm not a mind reader or a miracle worker. I need data on the size of the tank, filtration, water quality, and water chemistry.>
I would really appreciate it.
<I'm always happy to help so far as I can.>
Thank you.
Michelle
<Cheers, Neale.>

Re: Fish selection.... (algae eaters, why you don't need a FW clean-up crew), Now ADF comp.   11/20/09
For some reason African dwarf frogs have caught my interest. Would these frogs be compatible with 10 zebra Danios and 1 rainbow shark in a 30 gallon tank? If so, how many? Will these frogs do anything to my water quality?
Lastly, will they add any excitement to the layers of my aquarium or do they just lay around?
<Hello again. In theory this might work, but it's worth mentioning that Frogs are slow feeders, and depending on the Shark-minnow you have, may or may not get enough to eat. The Danios aren't competition in this regard.
Furthermore, they're easily damaged, and if your Shark-minnow is aggressive, they might be battered about. In short, this wouldn't be my first choice for bottom feeders, though if the tank was adequately planted
and the substrate was nice and smooth (ideally, smooth silica sand), then half a dozen Hymenochirus might be fun additions. Do read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/FrogsArtNeale.htm
Cheers, Neale.>

Red Ear Sliders question, sys., Algicide use   11/20/09 I have two baby red ear slider turtles in a 10-gallon tank with an overflow filter and a UVB lamp that is on 10 -12 hours a day. The rocks in the tanks are getting lots of algae and I was wondering if it's safe to put algaecide in the water. <Neither safe nor sensible. Using an Algicide is like vacuuming a carpet: it gets rid of the dirt that's there, but doesn't stop the dirt coming right back. Total waste of money. Algae will grow in any tank with adequate light and moisture. The spores come in via the air and presumably drinking water, as well as attached to whatever rocks, filter media, animals you have. The best approach is simply to accept it, and wipe away with a sponge or plastic scrubber whatever is excessive. Nothing you can do with chemicals will stop it coming back. Installing some fast-growing floating plants like Indian Fern will dramatically improve things, and prevent algal grown below the waterline. Algae becomes a pest when there's an imbalance between the number/size of the animals, the amount of plants, and the volume of the water. Big tanks that are lightly stocked and have lots of fast-growing plants rarely have algae problems. The further you are away from that ideal, the more likely algae problems become.> The local pet shops don't know the answer to that question, so I figured I'd ask you guys. Took the whole thing apart yesterday and cleaned it, but the algae will be back before I know it. <Indeed it will. As you presumably realise, a 10-gallon tank is adequate for at most three or four months where Sliders are concerned. As they grow, they pollute more and more, and the more nitrate and phosphate in the water, the faster the algae grows. Within a year or two, your two Sliders will need a tank 55 gallons or more. Do not underestimate their growth rate, and do not ignore the fact males are very aggressive.> Barbara <Cheers, Neale.>

Help with Rosy Tetras, sys.... env. hlth.    11/20/09
Hi Crew,
<Hello Chris,>
Hoping you can give me advice on my Rosy Tetras.
<Will try.>
Tank set-up:
20 gallon planted tank
<20 US gallons? A bit on the small side of this species... will hide a lot.>
Ammonia 0, Nitrites 0, Nitrates 8 -10
15-20% water change every week (diligent about water quality and testing)
Temp 78
Community tank with Corys/otos/2 swords/3 Rosy Tetras and 6 serpae tetras, and a Farlowella
<Serpae tetras are aggressive nippers, and not my first choice for the community tank (English understatement... wouldn't let them anywhere near community fish).>
I've had my 3 Rosys for 1-1/2 years and realize now that I should be keeping them in larger groups, but I think I would be overstocking if I added 3 more fish.
<Indeed... but my prime concerns are that some of these species, the Rosy tetras and the Swordtails, really do need more swimming space.>
Lately one has been hiding, and this fish, along with one of the other Rosys, are losing colour and appear to have some blotchy darkness/redness internally. It seems in the gill area as well as toward the middle of the fish. It is very subtle as is the colour loss (at first I thought I was overanalyzing), and I wonder if I'm seeing the start of some sort of infection due to the stress of bullying, as one of these Rosys has started harassing the other two...no nipping, just swimming quickly at them until they hide. All 3 are eating normally, and all fins look good.
<Likely a symptom of general stress, though whether it's the size of the tank, or nipping from the Serpae tetras, I can't say. To be honest, if there were six of them in a 20 gallon tank without the Serpae tetras, I think they'd be okay, but the Serpae tetras really aren't good choices for keeping alongside Rosy tetras.>
If this is what the problem is:
(1) If I remove the "bully" (and hope that the other 2 recover) would he survive in a 10 gallon tank with 4 Corys and a dwarf Gourami? Would the Gourami be bullied too? Or would it be better to move the Gourami to the big tank and put the bully Rosy in the small tank with the cories which he doesn't seem to bother with (so far).
<Not a good idea. Keeping these fish in a 10 gallon tank really would be pushing your luck. Removing bullies rarely works in situations like this, where the problem is the group is too small for normal schooling behaviour.>
(2) If I remove the two Rosys in question and quarantine them, I would have to put them in a small 5 gallon tank (heated and filtered). Would this small tank stress then further?
<Yes.>
Should I medicate the water?
<Not unless you detect symptoms of a particular disease.>
Thanks in advance for your advice!
<You're welcome.>
Chris
<Cheers, Neale.>

Re: Help with Rosy Tetras  11/20/09
Hi Neale,
<Chris,>
Thanks for the quick response to my question re my Rosy Tetras that look like they are losing colour and have some darkish/red internal problems.
<See, this is the thing... all these tetras can change their colours significantly depending on mood. Their colours can range from pale salmon pink through to almost a fiery red. Further, the idea of "internal
problems" is common parlance for "haven't a clue what's wrong". It's actually pretty uncommon for fish to genuinely have some mysterious bacterial or viral infection. (Some exceptions though, like Dwarf Gouramis
and their viral and Mycobacteria infections.) Anyway, while it's not impossible that your fish have some bizarre bacterial infection, I'd tend to bet against it. Evaluate all the other possibilities. Unless there are
obvious symptoms of a bacterial infection -- such as loss of appetite --
I'd tend to assume this problem was more behavioural than anything else.>
I did some more homework and the fish I identified as Serpae tetras are actually red phantom tetras - sorry!
<Ah, now things become interesting. Red Phantom Tetras, Hyphessobrycon sweglesi, formerly Megalamphodus sweglesi, are not a tropical fish. They need fairly cool conditions, 20-22 C being ideal. When kept too warm they never do well, and tend to be short lived. So instead of 5+ years, you get a couple of years out of them. So while ideal for other low-end tropicals like Danios, Neons and Peppered Corydoras, you wouldn't keep them with, for example, Dwarf Gouramis or Angelfish, both of which need above 25 C to be happy. It's a very common mistake to assume tropical fish all like really warm water; many of them don't.>
The receipt I had filed away only said "tetras" and I thought Serpaes looked like them but it is in fact red phantoms. I've had them for two years and they are extremely peaceful little guys.
<Yes, they are a nice species.>
Re the swords and the rosy tetras, I agree that a 20 gallon is too small and if I were to do it over again I would make other choices.
<Cool.>
If you think I should add 3 more Rosys to try and help the 2 that are being bullied I will but worry that I am going to be overstocked. What do you think?
<Worth a shot.>
In my 20 gallon I have:
6 very small oto cats
<These like cool water too.>
1 Farlowella
<As do these.>
6 cories (3 are very small - I forget the name - and 3 are peppered so are a little larger)
<And these too.>
2 swords (fairly large swords)
<Also should be kept below 25 C.>
3 rosy tetras
<These do need middling temperatures, around 24-26 C.>
6 red phantoms (very small)
<As we've seen, like things a little on the cool side.>
Would adding 3 more rosy tetras to this mix make it a dangerous load?
<Assuming robust filtration, I don't think you'd be running too much of a risk.>
As I mentioned I do weekly water changes and it is has been years since I have had a water quality issue but am concerned.
<Great.>
I am concerned that the internal discolouration/redness and colour loss of the two tetras will get worse if things remain status quo.
<I would be worried too.>
Thanks again!
Chris
<Good luck, Neale.>

My beloved turtle, RES... hlth... beh... gen. reading   11/20/09
Dear Crew,
<Hiya Rachel - Darrel here>
I have a red ear slider who is about 6" length-wise. He has a UVB/UVA light, a basking light that keeps his basking spot at about 92 degrees.
The water in his tank is at 79 degrees. I bought my turtle at pet store because I felt very sorry for him. There were about 12 other 6" turtles in a twenty gallon tank with only five inches of water. There was no room for them to swim or bask. I have a big tank for him and have filled it up with water. The tank is about 70% water and 25% basking area. He hardly ever goes into the deeper water, when he does he seems to be struggling.
<Hmm, what do you mean "struggling?" That covers too much territory for us to help>
He spends a lot of time on his back fins standing with his head out of the water in where he can reach up were I have a slope.
<I'm GUESSING that you mean he's standing in the deeper water, against the glass, with his head up RATHER THAN hauling out on the slope? If that's it, that is not all that unusual>
This is obviously not normal right?
<I'd like a more detailed description>
Is this because he had so little swimming room at the Pet shop?
<Unlikely -- maybe just what he wants to do...>
Should I lower the water level in the tank so he is more comfortable? Your help would be much appreciated. Thank you!
<Rach - here's a link that covers all the basics. First make sure that you're in-line. Next, if you're concerned about his behavior in water, make a few subtle changes and see what happens. Drop the basking temp to about 88 and let the water temp go to room temp (shouldn't have a heater anyway) and see. Next, lower the water "just a little" and see. Then, raise it back up and move his basking area a bit. If his behavior is a function of his tank, tiny changes should result in small improvements ...
until you learn what he's after.>
<http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/RESCareBarton.htm>

Flowerhorn Doesn't Eat  11/20/09
Hello, I have a 72 gallon bow front with a 10 inch FH and a common plecostomus.
I have had the FH for about 4 months now. Up until about a week or 2 ago I noticed that he had not wanted to eat as much and now not at all. I have 2 under gravel filters and a magnum 350 filter also, plenty of oxygen (2-4 inch air stones, 1 large Volcano (air pump) I clean the tank once per week (15% of the water) The water tests good, my water is very hard. I have added aquarium salt to the water, and vitamins to make sure he is getting nutrition. My Pleco eats like a pig (he loves his zucchini, broccoli, cauliflower and algae wafers.) I noticed when I went home last night that my FH has a raised bump on his head (under the skin above the bridge of his nose on his kok) Otherwise he looks good, but that did concern me and the fact that he is not eating. Sometimes he hovers at the bottom of the tank or in the corner by a plant, but
otherwise looks at the top of the tank for food. I feed him PE mysis and he will not eat it now, he is a finicky eater, so this is what I fed him. I offer him food and he looks at it and lets it go to the bottom or
doesn't bother with it. He usual gets excited when he sees me and comes to the top and I rub his head, but its getting to where he isn't doing this as much and I haven't seen him rearrange his tank in a few days.
Any advice or suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thank you,
Dee Lopez
<One of two things is going on here. The first, your fish has been imprinted on a certain food type and will not try anything else. Do not offer food for three days. He should be pretty hungry by then. Offer a quality food and leave it in the tank for five minutes, then remove any uneaten food. Try this every day for a week. If he still does not eat then there may be an internal infection. Treat with a combination of Metronidazole and Nitrofuranace.-Chuck>

Huge Otocinclus... CAE Non-Otocinclus Questions  11/20/09 Dear Crew- I am re-sending this as I was having computer issues and am not sure it was sent the first time. I am very eager to find out your thoughts on my issues (fish related ones, that is) that I thought I'd give it another try. Hope I don't appear too impatient.... You have helped me before with mollies and platy, and now I am eager to find out what you think may be going on with my Otos. Sadly, the mollies with which you helped me before are no longer with us. I currently maintain a 10 gal tank with 2 Otos, 3 Zebra Danio and 1 platy. I perform 20-30% water changes weekly, and my water tests are 0 ammonia and 0-5 nitrate/trite. pH levels maintain at 7.5 I feed the fish Omega Flakes. The oto love their algae wafers and deal with the Nori. My question about the oto is as follows: 1. He is HUGE compared to the other. Is this a normal size for an oto? He measure nearly 4 inches from head to tail. He appears healthy, if not a bit pale since adopted. The other oto is the requisite 1.5 inches with a nice fat tummy. 2. The giant oto (picture attached) spends most of his time eating or digging in the same corner of the tank. As he is so big, rocks are flung around as he digs and he creates quite the commotion. I am concerned this is stress related, but would like your opinion. 3. How do I purposefully grow green algae to supplement my Otos? I love watching the Otos and understand they are not as easy to care for as advertised in the stores. I would like them to have the most nutritious food possible, and enjoy the idea of growing algae for them. After reading an article on the site, I am inclined to get driftwood for the tank. However, with the voracious appetite of Bruce, do I need to do anything special to get the algae going? Thank you for your time and help. I have learned so much already from your site, and hope to become more knowledgeable about my Otos. Best-Kim < Your Chinese algae eaters can get up to 5 inches plus. At that size they are rather bothersome to other fish and are actually pretty poor algae eaters compared to Plecos and real Otos. Algae will grow when the conditions are right. Too much light and too many nutrients in the water. Better to feed Spirulina flakes or wafers.-Chuck>

Spawning Kribs  11/20/09
I would like to set up my 35 US gallon tank, with dimensions 24" length X 16" width X 21" height, for Kribs. Is this large enough for one or two pairs of Kribs? - also, are there any fish that would make decent companions and would pose little threat to the spawn?
< Go with one pair instead of two. Any group of small schooling fish would be fine. Stay away from barbs. Bottom fish like catfish are considered a threat to the spawn by the parents.-Chuck>

Goldfish Help!  (no real data)  11/20/09
Hi WWM Crew,
<Hello Caroline,>
I stumbled upon your site while looking for answers to my goldfish's mysterious problems.
<Before we go any further, can I please make it very clear that almost all problems with Goldfish are not mysterious in the least. Most specimens get sick and die precisely because people don't keep them properly.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/goldfish101art.htm
Goldfish need a big, filtered aquarium. At minimum, a tank 20 gallons in size. The filter needs to be robust, i.e., with a turnover of at least 4, and preferably 6, times the volume of the tank per hour (i.e., for a 20 gallon tank, an 80-120 gallon/hour filter is needed).>
We got, what I assume to be, a Fancy Calico Fantail goldfish about 2 weeks ago. He appeared healthy at the pet store and we knew the store we got him from was reliable one.
<Again, this is often the case. The problems being when people take them home. I cannot stress this strongly enough.>
However, just 3 days after we got him another fancy goldfish we had gotten with him began to relentlessly ram him! He was a slow moving fish and didn't fight back, so in fear of his safety we took him out of the tank.
<Hmm... these are schooling fish, and under normal circumstances get along well in groups.>
We put him in a much smaller 2 gallon hospital tank with the same water as the other tank.
<Unacceptable. This is far too small, smaller than a bucket, and WILL kill this fish.>
We kept the water at a constant 78 degrees and put in a stress coat, incase he was having trouble adjusting. He ate well, but did appear to have some swim bladder issues (he was listing to one side and seemed constipated).
<I've said this about seventeen times this week, but "swim bladder issues" are usually nothing of the sort.>
We didn't feed him for 36 hours and it seemed to do the trick, he was acting more sociable and regained his balance. We fed him just as we fed our other fish for approximately 4 days. But he began acting odd again.
He seemed hungry all the time, but we thought nothing of it because that's how we thought goldfish were and that it was a good thing. Soon he started losing his balance again and slowed down a lot. 2 days ago when I got home he was flipped upside down at the bottom of his tank, not moving. I thought he was dead but when I looked closer I saw his gills moving and his eyes following me.
<I see.>
After noticing me he quickly turned himself right side up and began searching for food at the top of his tank. He must be extremely weak because he can't even swim against the flow of water from the filter which is just enough to oxygenate the water. He soon turned over on his back and sank to the bottom of the tank again. It may just be me but I think his coloring is fading on his sides too. We have searched his entire body and couldn't find anything like fish lice or ich that would cause his to act this way. Today he seems even weaker! He can still turn himself around but he gets tired more easily.. He also appears to have a small amount of pineconing... I fear it could be Dropsy!!!
<Dropsy is usually a bacterial infection caused by chronically poor environmental conditions. You haven't supplied me any useful data here, so I can't say whether that's the case. It's crucially important you understand (and provide) the basics: 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, temperature around 15-20 degrees C, at least 20 gallons of space, and a good filter.
While Goldfish can muddle through the cycling process, it's better not to do it this way, but to cycle the aquarium before you add them. Note that simply filling the tank for water and running it for a couple of days ISN'T cycling anything; you need a source of ammonia (e.g., flake food) and time enough for the bacteria to grow (at least three weeks). Water chemistry isn't critical, but water chemistry should be at least moderately hard (above 10 degrees dH) and the water basic (above pH 7).>
I don't want to give up on my fish, so is there anything you know of that could help him? Or what is wrong with him?
<Can't possibly answer this without more data. Cheers, Neale.>

Swim bladder problems... GF, env. troubles, induced   11/20/09
Hello,
<Hello,>
Twelve months ago I set up a 10 gallon tank with a good filter, plants and do regular water changes.
<Too small for Goldfish.>
I have one medium sized beautiful orange Oranda (Albert), and one very small Pearlscale golf ball goldfish.
<Cannot possibly stay healthy in a tank this size.>
For most of the year they existed very happily but for the last few weeks the poor Pearlscale (Brian) has been exhibiting signs of swim bladder disease.
<Yet another "swim bladder disease" statement. Seriously, I've answered a whole bunch of e-mails this week where people mention this non-existent complaint. Let's be clear here: "swim bladder disease" is a vague name given by fishkeepers to what is basically a variety of chronic problems affecting the internal organs. Because your tank is not big enough for Goldfish, I'd bet the money in my pockets that the problem is down to chronically poor water quality.>
I have done extensive research and tried everything suggested;
<Yet you still have a 10 gallon tank... above ALL ELSE, a bigger tank is what you need here.>
feeding changes, water changes, removed a plant I was worried had contaminated the tank, peas, everything!
<Hmm...>
Brian is still feeding (although I am trying to feed both fish as little as possible) but he is obviously in distress and often wedges himself into plants or under the filter to prevent himself from floating upside down at
the top of the water. He has been stable, but it's terrible seeing him being so uncomfortable and I would do anything if it would fix his swim bladder.
<Do read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/goldfish101art.htm
>
Albert remains a very happy, extremely active fish, although he was listless for a few days but after some frantic water changes he has returned to normal.
<Needs a bigger, healthier tank, likely with upgraded filtration and appropriate water chemistry.>
I have been extremely impressed by the sound advice you have offered others; I am very fond of my beautiful fish and just want to make sure I am maintaining the best possible environment for them, both to help Brian now, and to prevent disease in the future.
<Well, I've offered my advice "straight up" and hope you don't mind.>
Many thanks for your help,
<Can't offer much help without actual data, i.e., filter type, water quality, water chemistry.>
Fiona
<Cheers, Neale.>

Question on African Dwarf Frogs, gen.   11/20/09
I work in a toy store and we received a shipment of frogs today. I already hate the idea that these frogs are shipped to toy stores, I have the idea even more when I open the package and find that they company allowed the animals to be shipped in the cold weather, nearly freezing them to death.
<Hmm... I agree, does sound a rather dubious sort of activity.>
Anyways, as I was distributing the frogs into their tanks, I came across 3 frogs that were floating upside down when in their tanks, but they were breathing and moving around when I removed them. I promptly put them into a very shallow tank of water (about 1/4 in) to allow them to warm up. When they were moving a little, I added some more water (it was then about 1/2 in)... just enough to cover their bodies, but allow them to breath without much effort. It took about 5 hours for them to get a bit more active, but I took them home because I did not trust the guys at the shop would not just flush them (as they had threatened when the frogs arrived).
<Gosh! This shop does sound a bit harsh when it comes to frogs!>
I have now moved them into a modified beta tank (1/2 gallon with lid and ventilation that they cannot escape from) and they have variable levels of water. I have an area just over an inch in depth and then some rocks piled up so that they can relax and be near the surface. I know that they will need a bigger tank and I have one ready, but I just want to be sure they are alright before I transfer them. Now that you have the back story, my question is this: they have been spazzing out since I put them into the beta tank. (no beta, just 3 frogs) and I am concerned that they are hurting or something.
<Wouldn't worry overmuch.>
The jump on each other, try to jump out of the tank, hit their little noses on the wall, and just flail about. They simply will not sit still.
<They are active animals, and they may well be hungry.>
It is now 10 pm and they have been at it for about an hour now (since I transferred them). Is this normal behavior or should I be concerned that they are drowning or something?
<They won't drown.>
They are all still all upright, but very much acting crazy. BTW, we used spring water from the market, the same water we had used with all the other frogs at the store.
<Spring water may or may not be ideal, depending on its chemistry. Frogs need hard, basic water. Often tap water is best. If your kettle furs up or you know your local water is hard, then dechlorinated tap water will be fine, and far better than softened water of any kind. These frogs are tropical animals, so they won't last long at room temperature; aim for 25 C (about 77 F).>
I would appreciate any help you can give me as I am very new to owning any amphibious creature.
<Do read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/FrogsArtNeale.htm
>
Thanks! -Blythe
<Good luck! Cheers, Neale.>

Fish... FW Pipe chase    11/19/09
I was referred to Bob Fenner because I am looking for freshwater pipefish.
I am having a hard time finding them and I was hoping you could give me some guidance on who may sell them. I live in New York, so I guess the place would have to be in N. America.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Paul
<Mmm, please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/BrackishSubWebIndex/bracpipefishes.htm
You might ask your LFSs to call around for availability... are sold in the trade on a punctuated basis. Or maybe call the NY Aquarium and ask if they know of any institutions that might have some they'd consider selling or trading for other livestock... Maybe even try contacting the outfits that sell syngnathids (Seahorses mainly), and the few, but excellent bb's that deal with the group/family. They will know more I re availability. Good hunting! Bob Fenner>

Goldfish Help   11/19/09
I have 3 goldfish which are about 1 month old. I was changing the water today and i noticed one of them had their tail missing. Will the fish still be able to survive without its tail or will it die. The other 2 fish are
fine and still have their tails. The fish seems fine and never seemed sick or anything.
<Hello Michelle. It's likely your fish has Finrot, a disease where the fin membranes are eaten away by bacteria. This is VERY COMMON when people try to keep Goldfish in bowls or tanks without filters. Goldfish need a tank 20 gallons or larger in size, and it must have a filter. Change 25% of the
water every week or two, adding dechlorinated tap water each time. The idea you can keep fish in a bowl or tank without a filter simply by changing the water is hopelessly outdate (not to mention cruel) and I would encourage you to read the article linked below:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/goldfish101art.htm
Goldfish can live for 30 years, and get to about 20-30 cm long if kept properly. Managing to keep them for one month therefore doesn't prove anything about them being "fine". So be open minded, and keep your fish
correctly. Treat Finrot with a medication like eSHa 2000, but be aware this won't prevent problems if you're not keeping them properly to begin with. Cheers, Neale.>

Our Blackmoore w/ very red throat and getting worse w/ treatment
Black Moor hlth, water quality -- 11/19/2009
We have known he's been sick for about 36-48 hours.
<I can only presume that you are referring to the Black Moor you mention in the subject of the email here...>
The first symptom we noticed was he very red under his throat at that time he was still eating well and swimming around, I tried searching up the redness but after couple hours I gave up and started treating him w/ an all in one treatment from Petsmart I had in the house already.
<What all-in-one treatment? A large portion of these medications are largely useless, and may cause more problems than they'll prevent.>
As the yesterday evening/night progressed I noticed him resting more and more on the bottom. The past few hours now he seems to be just getting weaker, the water filter seems to pull him more and more to it and he's fighting it less.
<Sounds like environmental issues/water quality problems to me...>
The recent environmental conditions, well the tank lights went out 4 days ago, so I took the top off and allowed the room light to get in better for few hours a day. Today when I got the replacement bulbs and I got a really good look of how red the red is and it's really made me worry much more.
<The lighting is more for your own enjoyment, this wouldn't have been a factor here.>
I am not good at precise reading on the chemistry stuff, but I do get the 5 in 1 test strips, they read in the safe zones NO2 between 0-.5 and NO3 at near 0 to 20 (closer to the 20 color).
<Test strips are notoriously inaccurate -- I highly recommend you pick up a proper master test kit -- with practice, these kits are very simple to use.
Any detectable ammonia, or nitrite are major problems, and nitrates in the 20 PPM range is toxic as well.>
The temp is 73. In a 10 gallon tank w/ him are 3 neon and some rogue cork screw snails that came in on the foliage when we first set the tank up.
<10 gallons is far too small for as messy of a fish as a Black Moor goldfish. Beyond this, these carp variants will get to a decent size -- almost a foot in length. This overstocked situation is likely the cause of the toxic water conditions.>
Moby had eaten all the live foliage couple months ago and I haven't replaced it.
<Fresh greenery is a good thing for the digestive system of most fish, especially goldfish.>
Upon originally setting the tank up we did have 3 snails (and golden apple and 2 of the black version) about around 5-6 months ago they died, it seemed as though their shells were dissolved away (read various reasons why that could have happened, none of which seemed would affect Moby and friends),
<Too low of a pH, not enough carbonate hardness/other trace elements available in the water to support them, most likely.>
We originally had 4 of the Neons, but one came up missing along (think before the snails died) time ago we suspect Moby ate him.
<Possible, more likely it passed and decayed in an area thats not visible, or possibly jumped out.>
Since I started the treatment I have removed the charcoal filter from the pump and changed out 2 gallons of the water before the 1st treatment. (I'm not sure if I should be tampering w/ water while medicating)
<Au contraire, you should be tampering with your water instead of medicating.>
The other fish do not appear to have the symptoms, but then they are so small and dart around a lot I can't really get a good look at them.
<May not be as sensitive to the toxins, or perhaps their excited nature is due to them...>
When I was in the store today I asked the person didn't really have any helpful idea on the cause.
Do you have any idea on the causes, the redness is area about 1/3 of an inch under his chin and the with of the whole underside, it a bright blood looking red, but I don't think it is blood unless he is bleeding under his
skin.
<Water quality.>
And of course, I want to know if the treatment I am do is what I should be doing and maybe I am just not giving it enough time, he does seem to be getting worse rather than better.
<I would do some hefty water changes along with replacing your chemical filtration into the filter. 30-50% per day should make some good strides towards where you need to be -- though, in the long term, you will likely need to move this goldfish to larger quarters.>
Should I turn off the pump that's now sucking him over to it, he can't be sucked up in it.
<I would not.>
Hope you get back to me soon I'm constantly going to check on him now cause I am so worried he isn't going to make it.
Thank you,
Jeni
<JustinN>

Bichir with bump (RMF, thoughts on treating Bichirs?)  11/18/09
-Dear crew,
Greetings from Athens, Greece.
<And good evening from England!>
I have two bichirs in my tank (about 10cm long and I have them for a year or so- did not know they were supposed to eat live food so have been eating mostly cichlid food, shrimp pellets and colour flakes so far).
<If your Bichirs eat these foods, that's fine. They don't need live foods.
In fact all I'd add would be some wet-frozen food (white fish, mussels, prawns, etc.) so that you don't have problems with constipation. No need for live fish or live foods of any kind.>
A week ago one of them developed a raised spot about 2/3 down from his head (towards the lower fin). It is raised whitish with 3 darker lines on it (I think it is the way the scales look because it is raised).
<Likely physical damage. Which species are these? Bichirs are not gregarious, and they will fight with each other. More importantly, cichlids can damage them. I have seen Polypterus senegalus mixed with African cichlids (Labidochromis caeruleus mostly) and the cichlids had bitten off all the fins from the Bichirs!>
It has been the same through the past 10 days or so. The fish looks happy and healthy with good appetite.
<Good. Would avoid treating for now, since Bichirs can be sensitive to medications. Only if the wound fails to heal would I use medication. My favoured medication for Finrot is something called eSHa 2000. However, I'd be very careful if using this, and I'd watch the Bichir for any signs of stress. I've used it with Pufferfish, which are just as sensitive, and they're fine. But you must be alert to any possible problems. Possibly, you might treat immediately with a mild antiseptic like Melafix.>
Initially I thought it was an injury (? bite) from another fish (mostly cichlids in the tank),
<Certainly a possibility.>
but now the other bichir has a smaller one in the same spot.
<Could they both be attacked by the cichlids? Or each other? The cichlids tend to bite at the fins. Bichirs tend to snap at each other, so you see damage to their jaws as well as their pectoral fins and tail.>
Have photos but not very clear ones (with mobile, but will take new ones with camera later today and send you- will also send latest water parameters)
<Photos and water chemistry parameters would be helpful.>
Fish shop says it is an abscess but I don't think so (and am a bit reluctant to ruin my flora- have a quarantine tank- but don't like it: no fish saved in there)
<Yes, abscess-type things can happen on fish. This is basically Finrot, so any medication for Finrot should work for an abscess (same bacteria).>
I would appreciate any input,
Athina
<Hope this helps, Neale.>
<<Mmm, have met up w/ collectors of Polypterids of several species in traveling... and have had a fair share of trying to deal with "breakdown" syndromes with their import over many years. Oxolinic acid (see ChuckR's input on WWM re) and Wiki's input: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxolinic_acid  re) and Nitrofuranace and other Furan cpd.s have proven efficacious over time/trials. RMF>>

Beta fish is sluggish since water change... No reading; Neale's seemingly infinite patience   11/18/09
Hi.
<Good evening!>
We cleaned out the gravel and filter in my daughter's beta fish tank about 2 weeks ago.
<It's actually Betta, to rhyme with "better", not "beater".>
It is a one-gallon tank and we have had the fish for about 11 months.
<Far too small. A one-gallon tank IS NOT viable for a Betta, no matter what the sales clerk suggested. Do please read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/bettasysart.htm
Assuming your daughter is still a minor, my attitude here is that you buy pet animals for yourself, and simply allow children to share. Kids simply don't understand the expense and responsibilities involved, so it's silly
to call a pet animal "their" pet animal.>
After the water was changed, the fish has stayed at the surface near the spot we feed him. He does not swim around and my daughter claims he has some reddish streaks on him.
<Red streaks on the body and/or fins are caused by Finrot, and this in turn implies the immune system has been suppressed by poor environmental conditions. Typically, that's because the pet owner has decided not to bother with a heater or a filter, both of which are essential. Nature being nature, bacteria don't give a hoot about your budget and how much desk space you have for an aquarium, and if you're going to stick a fish in an unheated, unfiltered aquarium, the bacteria are going to make that fish sick. Simple as that. If you can afford a heated, filtered aquarium, or can't be bothered to buy a heated, filtered aquarium -- then keep something else. Plastic dinosaurs, potted cacti, etc. Not fish. I don't mean to sound mean, but these things are non-negotiable, like death and taxes.>
Could it be because we changed the entire water instead of just half as we usually do? We let the water stand in a bowl for 24 hours before the change.
<Unfortunately, letting water stand for 24 hours does not mean it gets sprinkled with fairy dust. You water into which dechlorinator has been added. Water chemistry should be appropriate to a Betta, i.e., slightly
soft to moderately hard, and around neutral in pH. Can't be bothered to do that? Don't keep fish.>
Also, we do not have a heater, although the fish did not mind that last winter.
<He minds now. There's really no excuse here. These are tropical fish, and like all tropical fish, need tropical conditions. That's why they're called tropical fish and not, say, coldwater fish. So: you need a heated, filtered aquarium. I'd say 5 gallons is the minimum. In any case, you'll need to treat for Finrot (e.g., with Maracyn, Paraguard or eSHa 2000) and upgrade the living conditions accordingly. If you peruse some of the Betta healthcare messages we get here, you'll see lots of people with sick Bettas doing things the way you're doing them... so you aren't the first people to make these kinds of mistakes. But what you do next matters, because this fish won't recover if you don't upgrade its home and treat the fish promptly. Happy, healthy Bettas can live 4 years. Hope this helps. Cheers, Neale.>

Angelfish lying flat on bottom of tank  11/18/09
Hello WWM,
<Hello Barbara,>
I'm sorry to bother you, but I did look through your site, and could not find my exact problem.
<Oh?>
I saw lots of entries on fish lying flat, but nothing specific to what I am observing. I have a 44 gallon tank, established since March 2009. It contains two angelfish that are full brothers, and are two years old as of
this past September. It also houses four Congo tetras, a bristlenosed Pleco, and a 6" lace catfish (Synodontis). (the fish besides the angels are recent "rescued" fish and temporary) Everyone gets along fine.
<As they should; this sounds like a nice combo. I happen to like Lace Synos a lot myself, and it's shame these bigger Synodontis aren't more widely kept.>
One angel has grown since I put them in this tank last March, and is now about 4" across. The other one has not grown at all, (it is about 2.5 to 3" across), and has slowly gotten thinner and thinner, although he appears to eat well.
<Ah... I see. Often with farmed Angels you have problems with "wasting diseases" of various types, sometimes worms, sometimes bacterial.>
Previous to this, he was a big eater, and grew at the same rate.
<Can also be simply a social thing. Angelfish are not gregarious. If you have two males, one *will* become dominant. As such, he'll take more food than his brother.>
For the past two weeks, he now lies flat on the bottom of the tank, breathing hard
<Now, this is serious...>
When I feed, he will struggle to swim up to the surface, and eat food in a very enthusiastic manner, as if he is starving.
<I would put in his own tank (10 gallons upwards) and feed separately from the other Angel. In the hospital tank, treat the Angel with Metronidazole and Nitrofurazone as per the packaging.>
I feed sinking granules by Tetra, Tetra Crisps, and frozen brine shrimp, along with a few "treat" foods such as freeze dried Tubifex worms from time to time and freeze dried baby shrimp. There are no other signs of
illness.
Water quality is 8.0 for pH (he is captive bred and was bred in local waters with similar pH), 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, 10ppm nitrate. Water is ground spring water, but I use AquaSafe with each water change, and no
other chemicals. Filtration is for up to a 70 gallon tank, partial water changes, and vacuuming of 25% every two to four weeks.
<All sounds fine.>
As I believed he had an internal bacterial infection, I have tried treating with Maracyn Two and Maracyn.
<These two aren't terribly effective... they're sort of like penicillin... good for some stuff, but less so for others, especially drug-resistant strains.>
He seemed to get stronger for a day or so after treating with Maracyn, but has grown weaker since. I work at UPG Aquatics, and am an experienced fish keeper. I have kept reef tanks, biotope systems, community systems as well as a 3,500 gallon pond. From discus to corals, and have never had a fish act like this. Usually, once a fish gets to this point, they seem to perish in a day or so.
<Indeed.>
This fish is fighting for his life. Normally, I would just humanely euthanize the fish, but he shows so much fight.
<May still be necessary.>
In any case, I typically do not use medications, except in extreme cases, and do not want to just throw more in without any positive results. I am now thinking parasites, but I don't see how he could have gotten them.
<May well have shipped with them. Some evidence things like Hexamita are endemic to cichlids, and only cause problems under certain situations.
Stress caused by fighting between the two Angels could well be the issue.>
Can you help me?
Thanks,
Barbara
<Hope this helps, Neale.>
RE: angelfish lying flat on bottom of tank...
Hello Neale,
<Hello Barbara,>
Thank you for your reply.
<Always happy to help.>
I will try the meds you have suggested.
<Chuck certainly recommends these two medications for treating diseases of this type. I can't vouch for them from personal experience, since they aren't available in the UK without a prescription.>
Hopefully, he isn't too far gone.
<I hope so too.>
Regards,
Barbara
<Good luck, Neale.>
RE: angelfish lying flat on bottom of tank
Hi Neale,
Well, I don't know who Chuck is,
<Charles "Chuck" Rambo... one of the American crewmembers, and a noted cichlid expert; see here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/WWMAdminSubWebIndex/wwmcrew.htm
>
but I did want to say I was a bit surprised at your comment on the Mardel products.
<Not sure I said anything about them... merely that Maracyn is a good standby antibiotic, but doesn't cure everything, certainly not protozoan infections. While some Mardel products are sold in the UK, antibiotics are not, as is actually the case virtually everywhere except in the US. I've had discussions with vets about whether over-the-counter antibiotics are a good thing, and they seem divided. There are arguments to be made on both sides. On the one hand, it's more convenient and often cheaper to buy antibiotics from a pet store rather than from a vet. So that reduces suffering and improves fish survival rates. But on the other hand there are legitimate concerns that misuse of antibiotics can create long term problems with drug resistance, especially given that dosing with antibiotics reliably is beyond the abilities of most aquarists (how many aquarists know how much their fish weigh?).>
I have used them for over 20 years with great success in most cases. They have only failed me once. The company I work for makes a few medications, two of which are the ones you recommended, so I did a water change last night and introduced them.
<Cool.>
He still looks pretty bad this morning, so it may be too late, but we'll see. He's hanging on anyway. You guys are great. I recommend you to our customers daily. (I'm in technical support, and have been for 18 years) I don't usually need to ask for help with a fish tank, but this poor fish has me stumped. Thanks again for all your assistance.
<I'm happy to help.>
Barbara
<Cheers, Neale.>
RE: angelfish lying flat on bottom of tank
Interesting that antibiotics are only sold OTC here in the States. I didn't know that.
<Indeed the case, at least in Europe and Canada. I dare say in Somalia the law isn't quite to strict!>
I had heard that hydrogen peroxide was popular in Europe though.
<Not for treating fish... fairly nasty stuff!>
I typically don't use any antibiotics these days, I gave that up a while ago, until this guy got so sick. In most cases, a water change takes care of any problems I have in my tanks.
<Agreed.>
That didn't help this time, and since he is fighting so hard, I decided to try to save him. I suspect he will need to be humanely destroyed though.
I'll make that decision tonight.
<I understand.>
Anyway, seriously, your site is wonderful, you guys are great, and I recommend you to newbies all the time, who have all sorts of questions about their new hobby.
<Cool.>
Take care and keep up the great work,
<I plan to, and I will try to...>
Barbara
<Cheers, Neale.>

Cichlid Two-Part Question, "Assorted/mixed Pseudotropheus", traits, undesirability of hybrids   11/18/09
Hello,
<Hello,>
I have two questions, and any information that can be given would be so very much appreciated.
<Fire away.>
Firstly, I bought four freshwater cichlids from Petco, and I'd like to figure out exactly what type of cichlids they are. The only name given at the store was "Small African Cichlid," and the clerks at the store don't know anything more than that (they don't really know much at all), none of them are specialists. I've attached a picture to show you what the fish kind of look like.
<Without an actual photo of *your* cichlid it's really difficult to answer questions like this. There are 2000 cichlid species to choose from, and many of them are very similar!>
Mine don't have those spots nor striped fins, their tail fins are more translucent, there isn't a variation in color (except for what I mention below), and they're not quite as iridescent. *BUT* the shape of the body and the face is exactly like that. The fins are very similar, but a little different. There isn't a bulge a the end of the top fin like there is on the fish in the picture.
<What you have is almost certainly some type of Pseudotropheus hybrid.
These are very commonly traded by the less responsible pet stores. Being hybrids, you can predict virtually nothing about them with any certainty.
But at a guess, they're most likely to become fairly big (around 15 cm), be extremely aggressive (not community fish at all), nippy (will damage slow moving tankmates) and be more or less omnivorous (needing a diet that contains both plant and animal foods). Colours will likely not match anything in any books you have. Muddy blues and yellows tend to be commonest. I've said it before and I'll say it again: never buy a Malawian cichlid not specifically sold under a Latin name.>
Here are the physical details I can give you that might help you distinguish. You'll have to excuse me if I don't know most of the terminology. -- The fish are each mostly one color (no spots), a couple have a slight vertical fade of their color -- from the top to the underbelly (the top being darker than the underbelly). Of these cichlids, I have one that is a light blue, an orange, a yellow, and a salmon colored one that is more red-ish on top and more of a pale pink on the underbelly. Their tail fins are flared out *a bit* like a triangle, but the edges are rounded off. None of their fins are extravagant, flowy, nor long.
This is all the information I have for you, unless you have some questions that I'd be able to answer. They're the cheapest cichlids in Petco (if you happen to go in there often, or ever...not that I'm asking you to go to the lengths making a trip to Petco or anything).
<The "cheapest cichlids" is the clue. Nobody wants them. The only people who buy them are inexperienced fishkeepers, who quickly learn that these fish are worthless. Hybrids are a curse on the hobby, and the reason why so many Malawian cichlid aquaria don't have the bright, vivacious colours you see in magazines (where wild-caught, or at least pure-bred, species are used).>
*The second part* to this is, if you do know what kind I have, is there a way to tell their sex without venting them? Is there some other distinguishing characteristic(s) or behavior that might give me a good idea of the fish's sex?
<Males are generally slightly bigger, much (MUCH!) more aggressive, and usually, but not always, have more yellow spots on their anal fins. Females can have yellow spots, though rarely many, and often none at all. Wild and pure-bred species often have quite strong differences in colouration, but these will be weak or absent in the case of hybrids.>
I know all of this is very long, vague and probably not possible to answer, but if you have any ideas I would be very, very grateful. I've done hours of research online trying to figure out what kind I have, but I've got nothing.
<As will be the case with hybrids.>
Thank you in advance for any help.
<My pleasure.>
Sincerely,
Ariel M.
<Cheers, Neale.>

Re: Cichlid Two-Part Question  11/18/09 I am such an idiot. I should have done that in the first place. D'oh! >_< There are some pictures of mine attached (hardest pictures to take, ever). And you're right about the aggression, well at least for one of them (the biggest one). It's awful to the other fish. I only have the same cichlids in there, but he(?) bullies all of the other fish and hogs all the food. <Certainly Pseudotropheus "something". Likely hybrids. But do check out things like Pseudotropheus zebra and Pseudotropheus saulosi, among other things, as these are particularly commonly traded. Adult Pseudotropheus zebra (and indeed some hybrids) are incredibly aggressive, and males can, will kill off any fish in the tank they consider rivals. Minimum tank size for these "big" Pseudotropheus species (and hybrids) is 55 gallons because of this. Not "easy" fish by any stretch of the imagination. Cheers, Neale.>

Re: Cichlid Two-Part Question How long does it take for them to become fully grown? <About 6-12 months.> The biggest one is only about an inch and a quarter right now. <He's just a baby, and already causing problems... Cheers, Neale.>

Leleupi, stkg.   11/18/09
Good Morning, I hope all is well at Wet Web towers.
<Hello,>
Quick (and hopefully easy) question.
<Great!>
How many N. leleupi can I keep in a 60gal tank, with no other Cichlids, just some dithers?
<Difficult to say. Pairs of Neolamprologus leleupi are very intolerant of conspecifics, so if you want them to settle down without aggression. They can harass conspecifics even in quite large tanks, and there's no reason at all to expect a 60 gallon tank to be big enough for more than one pair (one of my books recommends 75 US/62 Imperial gallons for keeping more than a pair). You might try getting six and letting them grow up together, but that's with the warning that removing surplus specimens may be necessary in
due course. It also assumes you have lots of rockwork, with rocks and hidey-holes all the way up to the surface.>
Thanks
<Cheers, Neale>

Re: Leleupi  11/18/09
Thank you Neale.
<You're welcome.>
Are Leleupi girls as equally intolerant of others as the boys, or would a harem with only one dominant male work?
<Pairs will be intolerant of any other conspecifics, but I'd expect aggression towards females to be less than towards males or other pairs.
But these are not haremic cichlids so far as I know.>
I would like to keep 4 or 5, however I will of course take heed of sage advice!
<I'd go with 5 rather than 4... odd numbered groups seem to work best with cichlids.>
If I could only keep a pair, how would they feel about sharing the space with a group of Juli. Ornatus?
<Given space, they share well.>
If they'd tolerate it, how many Juli would I be advised to get?
<Again, these are pair-forming cichlids, though quite a bit less aggressive than the N. leleupi.>
I imagine this tank to have space for about 4-6 small/medium cichlids and am trying to come up with the right "recipe".
<Oh, easily space. Quite a bit more than 6 in a 60 gallon tank. But the art is choosing species that aren't going to view each other too aggressively.
Maybe a pair of Neolamprologus, a pair of Julies, a pair of
Altolamprologus, and a school of Cyprichromis could be quite fun (or better yet, and they are being traded now in the UK, Tanganyikan Killifish).
Thanks
<Cheers, Neale.>

Angelfish is pushing smaller angel fish PLEASE HELP ME  11/18/09
Hi, i just bought a 29 gallon tank and put three angel fish in it. two swim around together all the time (I think they're koi fish) and the smaller white one ( blushing angel i think) always hides in the corner, comes out
sometimes and not always; but sometimes the biggest one pushes the smallest one around and it is sad he opens his mouth and pushes at him. the biggest one even does it to the medium sized one, his pair mate or whatever.
<Unfortunately this is very common. Angelfish are not "sociable" fish as such, and should either be kept singly, in matched pairs, or in groups of six or more. Six is the magic number with Angelfish and Discus, seeming to be the minimum number needed to get them to school peacefully.>
Should i get rid of one of them, if so which one since he pushes both around i thought i should get rid of the biggest one cuz he is mean. or should i get rid of the smallest one?
<Yes, rehoming the third specimen is wise.>
and is this 29 gallon tank size good enough for about 6 months-1year or so??
<This aquarium will be fine for a pair of Angelfish for life.>
please help me i don't know what to do i feel so bad for the little one....
<I feel your pain! When I started fishkeeping, I bought three Angelfish, and two of them bullied the third, to the point where the third lost one eye and never grew to full size. So, I don't recommend making my mistake, and would suggest you move the remaining fish to another aquarium.>
thanks so much for taking your time to help,
sincerely,
Alyssa
<Happy to help. Cheers, Neale.>

Re: Angelfish is pushing smaller angel fish PLEASE HELP ME  11/18/09
Should i rehome the smallest one or the biggest bully one? because the medium sized one doesn't push anyone around? the smallest is my favorite, so who should i move out? i also read that they can become buddies later on. so which one should i move, smallest or biggest one? thanks again. :)
-Alyssa
<Neale is out currently on Mondays and Wednesdays, so I'll jump in here.
The smaller fish needs to be moved or at least separated as Neale already stated. Now. Bob Fenner>

Re: Angelfish is pushing smaller angel fish PLEASE HELP ME  11/18/09
i have also read that you shouldn't have only 2 angel fish in an aquarium, is that true? and what is the max i can have in a 29 gallon tank, if you recommend getting more?
<Angels are best kept singly, in matched pairs, or in groups of 6+.>
are they compatible with those fish that each the algae off the tank?
<Depends which fish. For a 29 gallon tank, the only species I would recommend would be Ancistrus sp. ("Bristlenose catfish"). Cheers, Neale.>
RE: Angelfish is pushing smaller angel fish PLEASE HELP ME
i gave the biggest one away to a store that agreed to take care of him for me, and the other two seem to get along great; the littlest one doesn't hide anymore, he seems more content. it seems better from my observations.
<Cool.>
if they don't last the cycle since i just set it up a week ago, should i wait the whole month for the cycle to get done before purchasing two new ones?
<Do not add Angelfish to an immature aquarium. Wait for the tank to cycle fully using a fishless method, ideally. After the tank is stable, add some hardy fish, like Peppered Corydoras or Zebra Danios. If all is well a couple months after that, add Angels.>
or do i buy them immediately after they die (if they die)?
<Do not add Angelfish to an immature aquarium.>
one more question, lots and lots and LOTS of air bubbles are in the tank all over latched onto the fake plants and things, is that normal?
<Depends; adding an airstone will produce some bubbles, as will using a spray bar or a venturi. Bubbles themselves aren't a bad thing, but too many of them can cause problems for fish. So a little bubbling at one end of the tank is fine, but if the thing is like a Jacuzzi, that's overkill.>
will it calm down?
<Depends.>
i suppose it's part of the cycle. just checking. thanks so much for your guys' help. it has informed me a lot. i greatly appreciate it.
<You're welcome.>
-Alyssa
<Cheers, Neale.>

Can You Breed Goldfish In One Tank?  11/18/09
My tank setup currently is as follows:
gallons- 50 gal.
dimensions- 18"wx18"Hx36"L
Freshwater
hard water (high mineral content)
ph 7.5 to 8
2 40 gal. in tank filters
2 4" sintered airstones
1 bubble wand
several fake plants
no gravel or real plants (for easier cleaning)
no added salt
chemicals used in water changes- ammonia, chlorine, chloramines, nitrate, nitrate, heavy metal remover (Amquel + and Stresscoat, sometimes Prime brands used), and a phosphate reducing bio extract (AquaSafe brand). I used mixed amounts of these chemicals. Usually splitting the dosage to 25 gal.
rather than treatment for a full 50 gall on each chemical. I do this to reduce stress on the fish and avoid putting too much of a chemical in the tank). I do this when I use more than 1 chemical at a time. When I use only 1 chemical at a time, I use the normal recommended dosage. Except for the bio extract. That does not do the same thing as Amquel, Stresscoat, or Prime. So I just use 1 ml per galloon during water changes with the bio extract. This usually amounts to no more than 6 to 8 ml. during water changes. Not a lot compared to what Amquel (25 ml to 50 ml.), Stresscoat+ (25 to 50 ml.), and Prime (5 ml per 50 gal. or 2.5 ml for 25 gal.) recommend for the tank size I have (except the Prime, which I tend to use by itself). So chemical interaction should not be an issue with my tank.
current # of fish in tank- 3 adult goldfish all roughly 1 yr. old (1 male American common fantail, 1 female American common fantail, 1 Ryukin female (she is the largest of my fish)).
future fish I would like to add to the tank- 1 adult male common American fantail (I have him currently in a 10 gal. tank by himself) and maybe 1 goldfish I bred and raised.
food- Spirulina flakes, goldfish flakes, occasional peas, free dried bloodworms, free dried green or brown seaweed, and freeze dried brine shrimp. Occasional vitamin c supplement and garlic guard. Maybe fresh, whole orange pieces (no skin or bitter white stuff attached) or blanched lettuce once in a while.
<All sounds fine.>
My question:
If I have 3 to 4 adults in a 50 gal. tank (two common American fantail males, 1 American fantail female, and 1 Ryukin female) can I breed and raise fry in the same tank as the adults? Can I use a tank divider to breed the adults and raise the fry, while keeping the fry separate from the adults until they are old enough to be placed with the adults? How many goldfish can live comfortably in my 50 gal. tank? Is 5 too many to keep in a 50 gal. tank?
<No, you should be okay with that. Depends on the varieties of course, and Standards, Comets and Shubunkins do need as much space as you can give them, since they get big and like to swim around a lot. But Fancy varieties are smaller (to 20 cm/8 inches) and don't move about so much. Five in 50 gallons should be fine, provided you have a good, strong filter.>
Also did you know they do not recommend keeping platys and goldfish together in the same tank because of the goldfish's tendency to produce large amounts of Ammonia?
<This isn't true. Goldfish produce no more ammonia than any other cyprinid of similar size like, say, a Tinfoil Barb.>
Thus this could wind up killing the platys.
<Yes, Platies are sensitive to ammonia, perhaps more so than Goldfish.>
Just an interesting little tidbit of information I thought perhaps you would find useful.
<It's not really true though. Provided the aquarium has adequate filtration, you can keep Goldfish perfectly well with subtropical fish such as Platies and Peppered Corydoras (assuming of course you're providing a comfortable water temperature for all the fish being kept). But most people who keep Goldfish don't provide adequate filtration, which is one reason so many Goldfish get sick and die prematurely. Since Goldfish are a bit tougher than Platies, Platies will succumb to poor water conditions before the Goldfish.>
I found this out the hard way. I lost many platys and one goldfish before I learned what I had done wrong. Poor fish. This rule also seems to apply for swordtails, guppies, and other small tropical fish.
<It's honestly not a rule.>
I have no idea about larger tropicals and goldfish. But that is because I do not want large tropicals. (Though some species can be quite beautiful).
For instance, I heard rumors that cichlids and goldfish can be put together.
<Yes, they can, but again, this assumes all other factors are equivalent.
Cichlids generally need much warmer water than Goldfish, but there are some subtropical species like Port Acara that can be kept with Goldfish in sufficiently large, well maintained tanks. A Goldfish is really not much different to any other large cyprinid like a Tinfoil Barb. It isn't any more messy than any other herbivorous fish of the same size, such as a Plec, and perhaps rather less so than equivalently sized carnivorous fish like Oscars.>
Yet I have no desire to try this theory out. The only fish over 2 or 3 in.
I want are my goldfish. And cichlids get quite large.
<Not all of them. There are many very small cichlids, including some small enough to live in snail shells.>
Anyway, thank you for your time and answers. They are most appreciated.
<Glad to help. Cheers, Neale.>

Z rocks... Af. Cichlid repro.?    11/18/09
Hello my female z rock is holding eggs in her mouth ....should I remove her now and separate her , or should I keep her in my tank...thank u
<No idea what a "z rock" is. Some sort of cichlid? Assuming that to be the case, depends on what you want. If you want to rear the fry, then yes, moving her to an appropriately sized maternity tank would make a lot of sense. Drive her into a jug and move her that way, rather than lifting her out of the water with a net. Doing the latter tends to cause mouthbrooding fish to swallow their eggs. Cheers, Neale.>

worried for my fish. Molly-Neon mis-mix, no reading, full moon stuff...   11/18/09
I have one Dalmatian Molly, one gold molly and 4 neon tetras together in a large tank, it has plenty of plants.
<Do understand Neons and Mollies are not compatible. Neons need cool (around 22-25 C) water that is soft to moderately hard, and not too basic (5-15 degrees dH, pH 6.5-7.5). Mollies by contrast need much warmer water (around 28 C) and the water must be very hard (15+ degrees dH) and very basic (pH 7.5-8). They almost always do better when some marine salt mix is added, at a dose of between 3-9 grammes per litre depending on the tankmates and plants. All of this will be quoted in aquarium books, which is why we recommend you read a book before buying any fish.>
I have recently found out that both my mollies are male (thank goodness) My concern is, for a few weeks now my gold molly has been getting fatter very ball like and can no longer swim, he sits in one spot all the time on the bottom of the tank, my Dalmatian molly appears to be fretting for the gold as he is always going over to him and trying to lift him off the bottom of the tank, he is continuously trying to push him up, and when he gets the gold up so far the gold just sinks straight to the bottom of the tank again,
<He is not "fretting" but being aggressive.>
His breathing has become more erratic and I've noticed his fins are getting faster in movement but he's still not getting anywhere. He has also stopped eating now and Im worried he is going to starve as it has been a few days.
<What are the water conditions? As stated above, Mollies need very specific conditions to do well.>
I have medicated the tank with a multi purpose treatment but it has had no affect on him.
<Useless approach. Diagnose the problem, then treat. Imagine if your doctor couldn't be bothered to check your symptoms, and just gave you the first pot of pills he pulled from a drawer!>
I separated him from the others but he looked panicky and was constantly pushing up against the side, while he was in the other tank i noticed his anus was very white and looked like it was protruding out of his body like a hemorrhoid.
<Is not this.>
Im concerned for my other fish as my Dalmatian molly is more active then usual in what looks like a concerned manner. and one of the Neons seams to be becoming rounder in the tummy and becoming slackish in its movements.
<Check water quality and water chemistry. For both species, 0 ammonia and 0 nitrite are critical. But since Neons and Mollies need completely different water chemistry, it's unlikely (i.e., impossible) to keep both species 100% successfully in the same aquarium.>
Id appreciate any advice you could give me as I don't want to loose any of my fish.
<I'm afraid they're doomed. You've thrown two non-compatible species together, and without giving me any actual data in terms of water quality, water chemistry, or temperature, I have no idea what precisely is going on here.>
i have looked all over websites trying to find an answer but nothing that i can find displays any of his symptoms together.
<These sound like generic "get me out of here" symptoms exhibited by fish being maintained in a poor (or the wrong) environment.>
Kylie
<Cheers, Neale.>

Re: worried for my fish, Molly hlth.   11/18/09
Thank you for your reply.
<You're welcome.>
I have tested the ph in my tank, and it is reading at 7.6, the temperature is 28 C all of what you have described as good conditions for the Mollies,
<Indeed.>
but I have not added any salt to the water.
<Ah... this isn't essential, but it really does make a huge difference.>
I have these 6 fish in the same tank for the past 6 months and have had no problems with them till now.
<As is the nature of things.>
The Neon appears to have gotten over his swollen belly and is back zipping around the tank like he always has.
<Cool.>
Unfortunately the pot belly molly has gotten worse today an is now lying on his side, I do not expect him to see out the week. he is non responsive to me when i approach the tank.
<As I say, Mollies just aren't reliable choices for aquaria where marine salt mix isn't added. I don't recommend people keep them that way.>
My Dalmatian molly is still trying to lift him off the bottom but not as much as before, he seems to have gotten attached to his reflection in the side of the tank and has been fiercely chasing his image back and forth across that side.
<Again, this "attachment" is aggression. Male Mollies are intolerant of one another.>
I had done some reading prior to getting the fish, as I have had Neons in the past and wanted them again, but I also wanted something else to go with them.
<Tricky things Neons. I think they're good choices for fish that also like coolish conditions, e.g., Danios and Corydoras. Platies are the livebearer of choice, being very happy at slightly cool conditions. Swordtails also do well in cool conditions, but they are a bit more aggressive (and bigger).
Guppies and Mollies need much warmer water though, and Mollies are fussier about water quality and water chemistry. Beautiful fish, yes, but not easy to keep.>
When I when into my pet shop to get the Neons I didn't ask if they were compatible with the mollies as they were already in the tank together there, I assumed they at the store new what they were doing and just asked for what was there.
<Ah, I see.>
I will however be returning to my pet shop to inform them that they do not belong in the same tank together.
<Should be interesting to hear what they say. As mentioned, not everyone keeps Mollies in slightly brackish water, but every aquarium writer agrees that they are often easier kept thus, and many miscellaneous problems just don't occur when Mollies are kept this way.>
Thank you once again for your advice, and I will be setting up a second tank right away to separate the two species.
<Certainly one solution. There are lots of fish that tolerate slightly salty water, including Guppies, Glassfish, Halfbeaks, various Gobies, and even things like Shrimps and Nerite Snails. Numerous plants will tolerate slightly salty conditions too (do read WWM re: brackish water aquaria for more).>
I do hope that by doing this I can save all there lives, Including my Pot Belly.
<I hope so too.>
Kylie
<Cheers, Neale.>
Re: worried for my fish
Neale,
Thank you once again for your hasty reply.
<Happy to help.>
Unfortunately after I sent my last email, I checked on my molly and he had died.
<Not surprised, really. Sad anyway.>
When I removed him from the tank his belly was extremely swollen but i could not find any marks on his body and his fins were still in good condition, I believe he may have just had SBD.
<Ah, now, there's no such thing as "Swim Bladder Disorder". This idea is a vague, arm-waving thing aquarists mention when they have no idea why their fish died. Putting aside constipation, the usual reason fish swell up is because of internal bacterial infections. These are caused by general environmental shortcomings. In the case of Mollies, this can very easily be water that is too soft, too cold, and, as I've said, insufficiently salty.
This is the thing with Mollies, they aren't reliable in freshwater aquaria.
We can talk about this all day, but it's still the bottom line: Mollies will sometimes die from stress-related bacterial infections when maintained in freshwater aquaria. The mystery is that Mollies do just fine in the wild living in freshwater rivers. So they don't need salty water in the wild.
There's something about aquaria, possibly nitrogenous wastes, that makes salt beneficial (salt detoxifies nitrite and nitrate).>
My Dalmatian Molly has become more aggressive towards his reflection, is there something I can do to calm him down?
<Castration. Serious, this is what male Mollies do. In the wild male Mollies spend all their time shooing off any male that gets close, so they can monopolise access to the females.>
It is rather funny to watch but I don't want him to get stressed.
<He'll be fine.>
Should I also put a female molly in with him, as He is rather large and dominant I don't want him attacking any other males I get.
<He will pester the female.>
As I said before I only had them in the same tank as the Neons because that is how they had them in the aquarium store.
<And as I said before, you need to read up on a fish before you buy it.>
I when back into the store this morning and asked them what there opinion was of having the 2 species in the same tank, (they have now added cardinals to the same tank making it three species)
<Hmm...>
The man told me that they hadn't had any problems with them and that they understood that Mollies are very hardy and have the ability to adjust themselves to completely fresh water.
<Note that pet stores keep their fish for a few weeks... they don't care what happens once the fish is sold.>
After explaining to them that I had been informed they need a little salt to do well, I was told it didn't really matter to them as they don't keep them for very long as the Mollies sell very quickly and after they leave the store its not there problem what happens to the fish.
<Precisely so.>
With this, I left the store. And am now looking for a new aquarium shop.
<Hmm... wouldn't be too hard on them, but as I say, you buy fish after you know what they need.>
The neon that had been getting fatter, Is now not so fat. and looks much happier now they are in there own tank. Once again thank you for replying.
I am definitely looking at buying your books so I am not bothering you with all my questions.
<We do have a page of recommended books for beginners.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/bookswwmsugg.htm
Not sure what the selection is like in the Land of Oz, but I'd hope your public library at least will have a few useful tomes.>
Kylie
Re Pot Belly Molly... Really worried... mixed w/ Neon Tetras...   11/18/09
I have one Dalmatian Molly, one Pot Belly Molly and 4 Neon Tetras together in a 20 gallon tank, with lots of live Plants..
I have recently found out that both of my mollies are male (thank goodness).
<Hmm... females are actually much easier to keep in groups, especially virgin females which won't breed and don't fight.>
My concern is, for a few weeks now my Pot Belly Molly has been getting fatter, very ball like and can no longer swim, he sits in one spot all the time on the bottom of the tank,
<Likely something like "The Shimmies" -- a neurological issue brought along by inappropriate maintenance. Mollies are very sensitive to nitrate (anything above 20 mg/l is toxic under freshwater conditions). They are also sensitive to chilling (anything below 28 C is risky). Usually, Mollies are most reliably kept in tanks with a little marine salt mix added to raise the pH, raise the carbonate hardness, and raise the salinity. While not 100% necessary, for non-expert fishkeepers the use of marine salt mix is HIGHLY recommended.>
my Dalmatian Molly appears to be fretting for the Pot Belly as he is always going over to him and trying to lift him off the bottom of the tank, he is continuously trying to push him up, and when he gets the Pot Belly up so far the Pot Belly just sinks straight to the bottom of the tank again.
<He is being aggressive.>
His breathing has become more erratic and I've noticed his fins are getting faster in movement but he's still not getting anywhere.
<Indeed not.>
He has also stopped eating now and Im worried he is going to starve as it has been a few days.
<Likely so.>
I have medicated the tank with a multi purpose treatment but it has had no affect on him.
<Won't. A useless approach for the reasons I mentioned last time you wrote with the same message.>
I separated him from the others but he looked panicky and was constantly pushing up against the side, while he was in the other tank I noticed his anus was very white and looked like it was protruding out of his body like a hemorrhoid.
<Not this.>
Im concerned for my other fish as my Dalmatian molly is more active then usual in what looks like a concerned manner. and one of the Neons seems to be becoming rounder in the tummy and becoming slow in its movements.
<Neons need specific conditions completely different to those of Mollies; temperature, hardness, salinity, pH -- all different.>
Id appreciate any advice you could give me as I don't want to loose any of my fish.
<Good.>
I have looked all over websites trying to find an answer but nothing that i can find displays any of his symptoms together.
Any help you could give me would be much appreciated. Thank you.
Kylie
<Do read up on the requirements of fish *prior* to purchase. This Molly likely doomed, but transferring it to a clean, well-run, slightly brackish aquarium may help. Cheers, Neale.>

Re: Constipated female Betta - 2 years old  11/18/09
Hello CREW AND RMF,
<Hello Elizabeth,>
Thank you for the link but I have been communicating with The Crew for eleven days now. My posts are on that link.
<Indeed they are.>
Pixy has now begun to humpy swim (after TWELVE DAYS of not eating) to the front of the tank and then hightails it back to the safety of her plants to rest.
<Oh.>
My important question is, how do I get her to eat?
<You probably can't if she's not well. Here's the thing. Is she losing weight or is she still chunky? If she's underweight, force-feeding is an option, but it's difficult and stressful. While I have done this with small fish, and successfully, it's a last resort. If you feel this is required, let me know and I'll explain more. If though she's still swollen and doesn't seem to have lost muscle mass around the tail, then feeding isn't a prime concern.>
She is still swollen on both sides. I am running the filter and keeping the tank at 80 degrees. Should I dose the tank with another Epsom salt change?
<It does sound as if we're dealing with a bacterial, dropsy-like infection.
Medicating dropsy is very difficult, often pointless, though some success has been ad with a Maracyn/Maracyn II combination. Essentially you use both at the same time, and hope for the best.>
Please help, we are very sad.
<Indeed.>
Thank you,
Elizabeth and Pixy
<Good luck, Neale.>

Re: Constipated female Betta - 2 years old  11/18/09
Hi Neale,
<Hello Elizabeth,>
Yes, she is still chunky.
<Good.>
I am thinking I am still on the wait and see?
<To a degree yes. Though the Maracyn/Maracyn II combo is worth a shot. I'm not a huge fan of adding antibiotics on the off-chance, but if you can try this, it won't do any harm, and may help.>
Thank you very much Neale, you've been a good friend throughout.
<Happy to help.>
Sincerely,
Elizabeth
<Cheers, Neale.>
RE: Constipated female Betta - 2 years old
Hi Neale,
Pixy is laying on the bottom of the tank now. I will get the medicine tomorrow morning.
Say a prayer for her!
Thank you,
Elizabeth
<Hello Elizabeth, I certainly do hope things resolve themselves. I shall sacrifice a fattened calf to the Fish Gods forthwith! Cheers, Neale.>
RE: Constipated female Betta - 2 years old
Hi Neale,
I just got back from Petco, I bought Maracyn - Oxy. That's all they had. I followed the directions and the package says NOT to treat for longer than 5 days.
Do you agree?
<I haven't personally used this product, so I honestly can't comment from experience. But generally, yes, it is a very good idea to go along with the instructions!>
Thank you,
Elizabeth
<Cheers, Neale.>

Re: Constipated female Betta - 2 years old :: Neale  11/20/09
Hello Neale,
<Good morning, Elizabeth,>
Pixy died this morning.
<Ah, too bad. I'm sorry to hear this.>
I have emptied the tank of its water and plants. My plan is to refill with water and replant tonight. Cycle the water and get it ready for its new Betta. How soon can I put the fish in?
<Tough call. Now, you might decide to sterilise everything, in which case you'll have to dispose of the plants (sterilising them would kill them) and then re-cycle the filter from scratch. Alternatively, you can leave the filter running, keep the bacteria well fed by adding a pinch of flake to the water every day or two, and then add a fish whenever you want. There's no real middle ground, since anything you do to "clean" the tank without killing the filter and the plants would be inadequate to ensure no pathogens are left behind. What would I do? I'd probably take the chance, and keep the filter and plants alive. But as I say, there'd be no
guarantees of any kind.>
The reason I ask is because since I medicated the water, I am basically starting from scratch. Right?
<Not as such, no.>
Thank you,
Elizabeth
<Cheers, Neale.>