Betta Aquarium Decor Question  9/25/06
Hi Bob,
<Twyla>
I am a betta enthusiast and am setting up my next tank.  I purchased a 4 gallon BiOrb, and would like to camouflage the center air tube.  I purchased a synthetic tree root made by TopFin that was the right shape for the tank, but lacked a hole to slide it over the air tube, so I drilled the hole through it to make it fit.
<Neat>
The root seems be made of a white material that had been poured into a mold and painted.  I am concerned that white material will leach into the water and would like to paint it or just seal it.  Any suggestions?
Thank you,
Twyla
<Water proof epoxy... there are some re-labeled for marine aquarium use (to adhere "frags") that your LFS (if they stock saltwater should have). Bob Fenner>

Follow up Betta Question
Tom:
<<Hi, Jacqueline.>>
Thanks for your prior answer, and no, no Valium for the pets.
I use the conditioner the pet store sold us, but in addition, just want to be clear. Tap water better than Brita?
<<Each situation needs to be taken on its own merit, of course, but we, generally, recommend that fish live in water taken straight from the tap. If the Brita filter is removing something particularly noxious, obviously use the filtered water, instead. Our concern is that filters can remove elements from the water that fish need to remain healthy. Where we humans can "make these up" from other sources, our fish are pretty much stuck with what we provide them.>>
Fluffy (so named b/c of aggressive behaviour on the trip home- sense of humour is important in this house) is by himself in a large vase. No tank, heater or filter. Also no plants or other things. Is this okay? We do notice his calls for attention and stop and talk to him.
<<Keeping in mind that Fluffy will do best at temperatures in the 27-29 degree C. (82-84 F.) range, a heater would be a very good idea. In addition, I, personally, never like to see any fish kept in an unfiltered aquarium, whatever the style it may be. "Adequate" parameters can, perhaps, be maintained through frequent water changes but there's certainly no room for error. As I may have mentioned the last time, mine is housed in a 20-gallon heated/filtered tank and gets water changes every four-five days with the addition of aquarium salt. The tank is much larger, of course, than he might "need" but my experience has shown that the other factors are necessary to provide a safe, healthy environment for him.>>
We do keep fresh flowers near his vase, he loves to look at them. He also watches us as we cook, eat, work at the kitchen island.
<<My Betta currently has close to a "ring-side seat" watching me install all new drywall in my family room. I haven't found this project particularly humorous but I swear I've heard laughter coming from his aquarium. The cat and dog are merely annoyed that they can't get their usual 18 hours of sleep with all the noise going on. :)>>
Thanks again.
Jacqueline Church
<<Happy to assist, Jacqueline. Best regards. Tom>>
Thanks again. So reassuring when one is new! I've already recommended you to others! I'll keep on top of it.
<<Sounds good, Jackie, and thanks for the kind recommendation. Tom>>

Re: Follow up Betta Question
<<Greetings, Jackie. Tom once again.>>
Again thanks, I almost forgot the most important question. I'm sure this adds weight to the aquarium issue - there's been some wispy white things appearing in the water. Not on the fish in some of those horrible sick-Betta photos, but swirling in the water. I think I see a little white-ish spot on above his right fin thing (pectoral fin? The transparent ones that he uses for movement). I think there are treatments that will eliminate the disease if caught early?
<<We might have two different issues here, Jackie. The spot on your Betta could, potentially, be Ich. The "wispy white things" aren't. Keep a close eye on both, especially the spot on your Betta. Medicating out-of-hand, as it were, wouldn't be appropriate unless/until you know what you might be dealing with. I mentioned adding aquarium salt with my Betta in our last discussion. The ratio I use is one tablespoon per five gallons of water. Though a very effective, and recommended, treatment for Ich, aquarium salt at this ratio is too light by half to actually deal with this parasite. I would suggest, however, that my Betta does very well with salt added at the ratio I normally use. Might not be a bad idea here.>>
Reviewing your site, I think possibly these both are related to parasites coming out due to my stressing him with too cool, over-filtered water?
<<The wispy things are not likely parasitic. If anything, they could be Planaria, which are a type of flatworm and appear when water conditions are less than optimal. Keeping up with water changes would take care of these. Ich, if it is such, is brought on by stress, though.>>
Could this also be part of why he flings himself on the rocks (stress or itchiness?)
<<A good indicator, certainly. "Flashing", as the scratching is sometimes referred to, can be related to a variety of possible parasitic infestations including Ich. It could also be a rather goofy behavioral pattern with him, too. At rest, my Betta lies in the gravel - a habit I wish he hadn't developed for the sake of my blood pressure - but it's his way.>>
I changed his water last night with warmer, tap water, with conditioner. He was much happier. Obviously so. I feel horrible!
<<No need to feel horrible about this, Jackie. You didn't know. Now, you do.>>
I'll try to investigate a small tank/filter setup. We live in a small loft, part of why we thought this would be a fish we could handle. I've already bonded to the little guy, do want to do right by him...will he survive long enough for me to get this right?
<<In the right conditions, he'll be fine. Bettas are actually "tougher" than they get credit for being due to their delicate appearance. Keeping the water temperature up and performing regular, frequent water changes are going to be the key elements here. Do keep a close eye on the spot you've observed above his fin. If this looks like it's spreading, as with Ich, you'll need to treat this immediately.>>
Cheers,
Jackie
<<Best of luck. Tom>>

Betta Heater 9/20/06
Hello,
<Hi>
My betta Wendy lives in a fairly small (less than 2 gallons) home, and thus I am wary of using an aquarium heater. <Several small models made specifically for this application.>  Currently I am using a small desk lamp set close to the side of the tank, with a scrap of dark fabric taped to the tank so the light doesn't upset her. <Sounds like a fire hazard, and not consistent enough.> My question is, what kind of lamp/what wattage of light bulb do you recommend for such a setup?  This lamp only gets the water to about 70.  Do I need to be so concerned about Wendy being exposed to the bright light?  If I have a full-spectrum bulb is this still a concern?  I've heard lamps made for turtles are good for bettas, but I don't know what a good brand or size or anything is.  Is there another safe way to keep my betta warm?  Thanks very much.
Julia
<I would stop using this setup immediately, sounds like a possible fire hazard.  There are many small heaters available for this sized tank, and even a slightly larger one would be fine.  Check on-line retailers for these.  This is really the only reliable way to get the temperature constant.>
<Chris>

Flying Fish    9/15/06
Hello,
<Hi, Pufferpunk here>
I just got a Betta fish a couple of weeks ago (His name is Drake). At first I had him in a 2 gallon tank but later I bought a 5 gallon tank to house him in. I was doing a water change and Drake jumped out!!! I had my back turned away for one second and the bowl was empty... when I discovered him out of his bowl I quickly picked him up and put him back into the water. After a while of observing him to see if he was alright I discovered that one of his fins were damaged and a few scales were sticking out : ( I was just wondering if he will be alright? Will his scales grow back? Will his fin heal?
<Yes he'll be fine. Adding Melafix will speed up the process.  Are you moving him out of the tank into a bowl to do a water change?  Not necessary, just change out 25% of his water weekly (after stirring the gravel a bit).  ~PP>
Thanks Betta Not Doing Well  - 09/13/06
Hello. Thank you for taking the time to answer my question! I have a betta in a one gallon tank with no heater. I have been told to change his water about
once a week, since he started becoming skinny and acting different. But now, he doesn't seem like he can swim all that well. He has a tough time staying
up and usually sinks back down if he doesn't constantly move his body. He lays on the bottom of the tank a lot and seems to have a hard time swimming.
What should I do?
< Get a thermometer and check the water temp. It should be around 80 F. If too much lower than that you need a heater.-Chuck.>
Thank you,
Anthony Monaco   

New Betta tank - 09/02/06
Hi,
<Hello there - Jorie here.>
Several questions . . . A friend recently "regifted" me her
betta-in-vase-with-bamboo, which she resented, understandably, receiving as a wedding present.
<Ah, I wish some people would get it through their thick skulls that fish (as any other live animals) are *not* appropriate "presents" to give others - unless discussion has occurred before and proper arrangements are made.>
I thought the vase was way too small (2 gallon) and the bamboo didn't look healthy. Plus, the betta started to get little
patches of fuzzy mould on his fin tips even though I cleaned everything, changed the water (with treated tap water), and added BettaFix as soon as I got it home.
<Good.>
After reading about the devastating effects of unchecked fungus I panicked and went down to the science dept. of the school where I work and "borrowed" 20 gallon tank which I set up with gravel, healthy live plants, filter, heater, aquarium salt.
<Wonderful! The betta will definitely appreciate the heater (ideal betta temp. is between 80 and 82 degrees F.), and the filtration is, in my opinion, essential for any fish to thrive. Of course, a 20 gal. tank is pretty much the equivalent of a palace or celebrity home w/ 19 bedrooms to a betta - if this is only a temporary arrangement and you need to return the tank, I'd recommend a 3-5 gal. tank (w/ heater and filtration, of course) to house a single male betta.>
The betta, after a day looks happy, and the fuzz has disappeared. He's even showing regrowth.
<I'm glad to hear it.  The little guy is lucky to have you!>
I also bought Maracyn and am wondering: 1. Should I treat him anyway?
<No - never a good idea to medicate unless there's a clear need for it.  You've done a great job in cleaning up his environment, and if you see that the fungus has already gone, then leave well enough alone.  Keep an eye on him, of course; if the problem crops up again, you can always re-assess.  Also, since you already used BettaFix, that's another reason to not add another med. - never a good idea to mix medications.>
2. The tank was not cycled, have I done something awful? Can I fix this error?
<You have not done something awful...since you have only the one fish in there, you aren't likely to see a real "spike" in ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate (i.e., cycling).  Nevertheless, do keep up on water changes (with such a large tank, I'd say 25% a week, with just the one betta), and you can monitor the toxin levels with test kits.  Obviously, if conditions warrant, you can always do more water changes as needed.>
3. The betta will eat nothing but freeze-dried bloodworms, and the local pet store has no live food. Would it like some tadpole? There is a pond down the road.
<Gosh, no!  Bloodworms are an excellent food source for bettas.  Live food is not necessary or even appropriate for a betta - there's always a risk of introducing disease w/ feeder fish and such.  Plus, fish and tadpoles they are way too big for your betta.  I'd suggest picking up a dry betta food, such as Hikari pellets.  I believe Tetra makes betta pellets as well, but I think Hikari is a better quality food all in all.  Alternative w/ the bloodworms.  If you really want to give your betta a treat, try freeze-dried or frozen, then thawed Mysis shrimp - he'll love you for ever!
4. He has never, though he is a perky fish, made bubble nests. Is
this a matter of concern?
<Absolutely not.  Some bettas do, some don't.  Honestly, of all the types of fish I keep/have kept, I find that the bettas each have their own individual personalities - they really are the most "pet-like" of fish, in my opinion.  I adore my two bettas - I say "good morning" and "good night" to them each day, etc. etc. So long as he's swimming and eating, he should be just fine.  Make sure he has at least a couple of plants/decorations to rest in or behind.>
Finally, this tank is huge...
<Agreed!>
...and I think it could easily accommodate a couple of other life forms.
<Sure, depending on what you have in mind...>
The most mentioned basic additions seem to be shrimp or snails, yes?
<The success of that will depend entirely on the temperament of your betta.  Some of my bettas have been peaceful enough to live w/ Amano and cherry shrimp, while others have thought of the shrimp as "dinner".  Since you do have so much space, you could look into a bamboo wood shrimp (but, you mentioned having aquarium salt...inverts will not likely tolerate this).  Snails also won't like the salt.  I'd suggest perhaps looking into livebearers (mollies would appreciate the salt; I'm not sure about fancy guppies, as the betta may go for their pretty fins; platys would be fine also if there isn't too much salt in the water.  With all livebearers, be sure to get either all of one sex, of a ratio of about 1:4 male:female.  The betta may take care of the fry, as well:-).  Other potential fish tankmates would include white clouds, tetras, or danios.>
Thank you so much for you help.
<Hope I have!>
Alice
<I'm so glad there's people like you out there to rescue the bettas from the non-suitable parents" out there...Jorie.>

Re: New Betta tank Part 2  - 09/02/06
Thank you again for your help.
<You're welcome.>
I'm feeling a *lot* less nervous now.
<Good!>
(Imagine how awful it would be to kill someone else's wedding present.)
<I understand.  Plus, I get pretty attached to all my fish, so I cry when anyone dies, even from old age.>
I just need clarification on a couple of points: Are the bloodworms a complete diet?
<Fish need variety in their diets just as people do...>
(I've tried different pellet type foods and he just spits them out.)
<You've got a few options: you could try flakes (I don't think I've ever had a betta eat flakes, but there are betta-specific flakes out there, so some bettas must!) Also, the Mysis shrimp is almost *sure* to be a hit.  Finally, there's a product called Kent Garlic Xtreme (basically just pure garlic extract) that works very well as an appetite stimulant...it's very powerful, though, so just use 1, 2 at the most, drops a minute or so before feeding.  Or, you can soak pellet or flake food in it, first.  If, for some strange reason your betta will not eat anything except the worms, well, that's better than him just eating brine shrimp (equivalent of potato-chips for fish...virtually no nutritional value), so don't fret too much.  Experiment, and I'm sure you'll find something that works.  Just stay away from the live food.>
And if I decide to go ahead and try any of the tankmates you
suggested how long should I wait - the tank is less than 2 days old right now.
<Well you definitely want to establish the nitrogen cycle, and that can't have happened in 2 days.  Too early to add new fish/livestock.  Once you've seen a spike, then decrease in ammonia, nitrites and nitrates, in that order, your tank is "cycled".  Read here for more information: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwestcycling.htm >
  Is there a reliable single "all in one" toxin tester, or must I navigate a tortuous chemical labyrinth (as it seems to my addled
humanities brain when I try to read any of the web pages on this topic).
<Haha! Trust me, I am by no means a chemistry geek, and I can barely do simple math!  Unfortunately, there isn't one magic test that will measure everything you need.  Also, the most "simplified" products, such as AmmoniaAlert (or something like that) - a suction-cup ammonia reader - are notoriously unreliable.  You really just want to be able to test ammonia, nitrites, nitrates and pH.  There's a test kit made by Tetra (called Master Test Kit, I think) that is very easy to use and equally reliable.  It comes with everything you need, is maybe $25 (will last you a while w/ just one tank!), and is very self-explanatory on how to take measurements.  Basically, you take little samples of tank water, add one or more chemicals from the kit, wait the allotted time, and viola! measure the reading against a chart.  Quite easy, trust me!  Stay away from the "dip-stick" tests, as they are not reliable at all.>
<You are definitely on the right track - relax, and enjoy your new fish.  And, we are always here to help, should the need arise.  Jorie>

Re: New Betta tank Part 3  - 09/02/06
Thank you again for your help.
<You're welcome.>
I'm feeling a *lot* less nervous now.
<Good!>
(Imagine how awful it would be to kill someone else's wedding present.)
<I understand.  Plus, I get pretty attached to all my fish, so I cry when anyone dies, even from old age.>
I just need clarification on a couple of points: Are the bloodworms a complete diet?
<Fish need variety in their diets just as people do...>
(I've tried different pellet type foods and he just spits them out.)
<You've got a few options: you could try flakes (I don't think I've ever had a betta eat flakes, but there are betta-specific flakes out there, so some bettas must!) Also, the Mysis shrimp is almost *sure* to be a hit.  Finally, there's a product called Kent Garlic Xtreme (basically just pure garlic extract) that works very well as an appetite stimulant...it's very powerful, though, so just use 1, 2 at the most, drops a minute or so before feeding.  Or, you can soak pellet or flake food in it, first.  If, for some strange reason your betta will not eat anything except the worms, well, that's better than him just eating brine shrimp (equivalent of potato-chips for fish...virtually no nutritional value), so don't fret too much.  Experiment, and I'm sure you'll find something that works.  Just stay away from the live food.>
And if I decide to go ahead and try any of the tankmates you
suggested how long should I wait - the tank is less than 2 days old right now.
<Well you definitely want to establish the nitrogen cycle, and that can't have happened in 2 days.  Too early to add new fish/livestock.  Once you've seen a spike, then decrease in ammonia, nitrites and nitrates, in that order, your tank is "cycled".  Read here for more information: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwestcycling.htm >
  Is there a reliable single "all in one" toxin tester, or must I navigate a tortuous chemical labyrinth (as it seems to my addled
humanities brain when I try to read any of the web pages on this topic).
<Haha! Trust me, I am by no means a chemistry geek, and I can barely do simple math!  Unfortunately, there isn't one magic test that will measure everything you need.  Also, the most "simplified" products, such as AmmoniaAlert (or something like that) - a suction-cup ammonia reader - are notoriously unreliable.  You really just want to be able to test ammonia, nitrites, nitrates and pH.  There's a test kit made by Tetra (called Master Test Kit, I think) that is very easy to use and equally reliable.  It comes with everything you need, is maybe $25 (will last you a while w/ just one tank!), and is very self-explanatory on how to take measurements.  Basically, you take little samples of tank water, add one or more chemicals from the kit, wait the allotted time, and viola! measure the reading against a chart.  Quite easy, trust me!  Stay away from the "dip-stick" tests, as they are not reliable at all.>
<You are definitely on the right track - relax, and enjoy your new fish.  And, we are always here to help, should the need arise.  Jorie>

Re: safe decorations for betta tank  9/3/06
Jorie,
<Alice>
Last question, I promise: I read on your site that sea shells are generally not a safe decoration, so I've taken them out. How about
Amythest stones, smooth sided, and glazed coffee cups?
<I think the stones will be fine, but do you know what the coffee cups are glazed with?  I'd be concerned that some lead based ceramic glazes could potentially leech out into the water.  I know some people used terra cotta planter pots w/o problem.>
Thank you,
Alice
<You're welcome. Have a great holiday, Jorie.>

New betta owner  - 09/01/06
<<Hello, Jacqueline. Tom this afternoon.>>
We brought home a beautiful betta and have purchased the drops to condition his water. We also use a Brita filter for ourselves and use it for his water too.
<<Generally we don't recommend filtered/bottled water for our pets since the elements the fish need are absent - or nearly so - from these sources. Do keep a close eye on your new Betta but leave things as they are for now.>>
He seems to respond to me.
<<Bet you're the one who feeds him. :)>>
I have observed some interesting behaviour and want to be sure it's not an indication of stress. He's not puffing out as I've seen on some sources (aggressive or threat response, like a cat puffing up.) but he sometimes flops on his side on the stones (we cleaned and treated them, too - also rinse them with each water change). It doesn't seem as if he's scratching himself on the stones, but it's definitely a deliberate motion. Sort of flinging himself on the bottom. I actually can't tell if he's touching the stones or if they're whisked about by his fins.
<<I suppose it's interesting to see a Betta flare at himself in a mirror (I've never done it with mine, truthfully) but I don't see the lack of this behavior as any indication to be concerned. I certainly doubt that it's stress- related. Think of your Betta as a "Gentleman" fish not given to macho displays.
As for his bottom-flopping, mine acts similarly. Not to the degree you describe but not far from it either. Sure made me take a deep breath when he pulled this on me the first few times but now I just sort of accept this eccentricity.>>
He comes to the top when I feed him and he clearly seems to like a little attention. The water temp. is between 75 - 80 degrees Fahrenheit.
<<I hold mine at 82 degrees, Jacqueline. 75 is too cold for Bettas. Actually, I could go a couple of degrees higher without any concern whatsoever. The key here is keeping the temperature as stable as possible. Five degree swings, particularly over a fairly short period of time, aren't good especially in the downward direction. This would be very stressful.>>
Seems very uninterested in the mirror thing. Anything to worry about?
<<Not in my opinion.>>
Thanks in advance.
<<You're more than welcome.>>
PS curiously, my cat is completely uninterested in the new addition.
<<Your Betta won't flare and your cat doesn't want to eat him. Is someone in the house slipping your pets Valium, by any chance? :)>>
Jacqueline Church
<<Enjoy your new Betta, Jacqueline. Best regards. Tom>>

Betta compatibility in 5 gal tank   8/27/06
Hello!
<<Hello, Sarah. Tom here.>>
First, I would like to thank you for your wonderful site!  I found it three days ago and have spent numerous hours reading it.
<<And, I'd like to thank you for the kind words. Glad you've found much to read.>>  
I purchased a five gallon hex tank with filtration about a month ago (it has been fishless cycling for the duration).  I’ve been checking the Ph, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels, and after some fluctuation, they’ve all leveled out to acceptable ranges (7.2, 0,0, and 5ppm as per your FAQ’s).
<<Very good.>>
I don’t have a heater, but the water seems to stay between 78 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit.
<<A heater still wouldn't be a bad idea, Sarah. Temperature swings of more than a couple of degrees can be stressful.>>
The tank has a castle ornament with a cave-like opening and a small live fern (which was just introduced two days ago).
I would like to get a Betta, and am wondering what I could put in with it. After reading through the Betta compatibility FAQ’s, I’ve tentatively decided on getting a Cory cat (or two, if my tank can support them both), and maybe either three scissortail rasboras (I read that rasboras may be compatible; are they all the same, temperament-wise?
<<Not really, Sarah. Your tank is already too warm to house the Rasboras comfortably. The Corys would adapt well enough to what you have now and a Betta would actually prefer it warmer by a couple of degrees.>>
If so, these would be my first choice), or three white cloud minnows.
<<The White Clouds and Rasboras prefer similar temperatures - cooler than what we normally associate with Tropical fish and certainly cooler than what a Betta will handle.>>
I understand that the ability (or willingness) of a Betta to acclimate to community living depends on the individual fish.  
<<Quite true. The key is to place them, if at all, in a community where all of the fish share common needs regarding water conditions.>>
The only thing that I’m wondering about at this point is the numbers of the other fish I can get.  Would my small tank hold that many fish, or would I be overloading it?  
<<The Rasboras would be overloading it terrifically, Sarah. Will grow too large for anything short of a 25-30 gallon tank, perhaps larger. The Cory(s) would do fine in small numbers but I'd like to make a point here with you. Bettas not only prefer but, in my opinion, need aquarium salt in the water. Catfish, including Corys, don't tolerate salt well. For that reason, I don't consider Bettas and Corys "compatible" in the broader sense of the word.>>
Additionally, I am planning on adding the fish in stages, starting with the Betta, then the Corys, and last the third species.  Is this a good plan (assuming that the species can cohabitate in the available space)?
<<Were it me, Sarah, I'd stick with a Betta alone. (Mine's in a 20-gallon tank by itself.) Your five-gallon tank is a good size for a Betta and, compared to what these fish normally get stuck in, I'd say it's a very good choice. I'm afraid. though, that you'd be pushing it to try to add more fish quantity-wise and, given the specifics of what Bettas need to thrive, I don't know that you have the options that I'm sure you'd like to have.>>
This isn’t my first tank (although it is the first in several years), but I’ve never had such a small tank.  Unfortunately, space restrictions do not permit anything larger.  I’ve previously owned two Bettas, which were both kept in one gallon bowls and both lived for about two years. At the time, I thought that they had to live in bowls and could not have other fish with them (I had no idea that Bettas could be kept in a community until I saw a few in community settings at a fish store).
<<I'd be a bit leery of duplicating what you might find in fish stores, Sarah. Obviously, many more fish are typically housed together in display tanks than you or I would ever consider stocking our tanks with. Additionally, there are fish housed together that shouldn't be together in a "home" setting. Puffers are one example of this but there are others. This isn't to say it can't work. There are plenty of folks who'll share that they've kept Bettas in community tanks very nicely. I'm just going with the "high-percentage" call based on my own research and personal experience.>>
Thank you,
Sarah
<<Probably somewhat disappointing advice based on what you were looking to achieve, Sarah, but I'd rather be a bit of a "wet blanket" than suggest giving it a "go" and having things work out poorly. Good luck to you. Tom>>

Re: Betta compatibility in 5 gal tank (Tom)  8/28/06
Hi Tom!
<<Hello, Sarah.>>
I would like to thank you for your quick response.  
<<Not a problem and happy to do so.>>
Although I can’t say I’m not disappointed by your “wet blanket”, I would rather be disappointed now than later, and would like to think that I’m giving my future pet a good home (which is why I asked in the first place).  
<<I appreciate that and, personally, I'd rather think in terms of quality than quantity. If it's any consolation, I've "wet-blanketed" myself far more than I have any of the good folks like you who write in to this site. I really frustrate me, sometimes. :)>>
Given that it is such a small tank, I’ve decided to go ahead and get only the Betta, rather than try to stock it with other types of fish (instead of the Betta) and deal with space/bioload issues.
<<I like your thinking, Sarah. For what it's worth, I do a 20% water change every three to four days for my Betta and, as I mentioned, he's in a 20-gallon tank. He loves it but it's probably more than you'd go through with an "average" tropical tank. In fact, too much of a "good thing" for the average tropical aquarium can be more detrimental than beneficial in a lot of cases. You'll be spending plenty of time with your Betta. No need to "invite" potential problems.>>
Again, thank you so much for the great info!
Sarah
<<Any time, Sarah, and thanks for writing back. My best. Tom>>  

My Betta is eating his tail!!!   8/17/06
Hello, Crew Members.
<<Hi. Tom here.>>
I am concerned about my betta, Jinjy, since he has begun to chase his tail and eat parts of it. I have looked through the forum and have read other people's entries that deal with the same issue, but I still find myself at a loss as to how I might better my pet's situation. Here are some details that might help:
Jinjy lived in a fishbowl with no filter for the first three months after I got him (This is terrible. I was completely misinformed about how to care for fish. The pet stores where I live sell them in the tiniest, most inappropriate and cruel bowls).
<<Most do, Erika, sadly.>>
After discovering this site, I changed him to a 20 litre tank with a very simple underground filter and a heater that is always set at 79 degrees.
<<Very well done, although I'm keeping my fingers crossed that we didn't recommend the UGF. I'll explain as we go...>>
I keep him in treated (dechlorinator, etc.) tap water and there is a small silk plant and a tiny cave in his home. He eats Azoo brand Betta 9 in 1 pellets, tetra BettaMin flakes, Wardley's 'Spirulina with Betta Glucan' food, and brine shrimp 5 times a month; once a day. I have been doing 100% water changes once a week (I found on the site earlier today that this is not recommended).
<<All else sounds good, Erika, but the water change is too much. I do about 10%-15% every three to four days with my Betta. Less a matter of 'how often' than it is a matter of 'how much' at one time. Often is good but take this in little steps.>>
I did some tests on the water today and the results are fine.  pH : 7.5   Ammonia: 0  nitrate= 0 nitrite = 0.3 
<<Actually, a 0.3 nitrite level is not good. When dealing with either ammonia or nitrite, if it can be detected, you've got a concern.>>
I read about the possibility of adding a tankmate to calm him down, but I do not think that he'd cope well with one.
<<Bettas do perfectly well by themselves. I agree with you. Not a good idea to add another fish to the mix.>>
Is it possible that the sound of my sewing machine might be disturbing him? It is about two meters away from him, on a different table.
<<Possible? Sure, but not likely. Not to worry. Now, let's get back to your UGF (undergravel filter). Bettas tend to be 'lazy' swimmers inclined to rest on the bottom when the mood strikes. Exactly where all of the bad stuff is being collected and, more importantly, where the bacteria will be growing. The easiest place for bacteria to "collect" is on the fins of the fish. Do you scratch mosquito bites? Most fish can't "reach" but our Bettas can. (You know where I'm going already, don't you?) While Bettas need really good water conditions, the bottom has to be as great a consideration. That said, I recommend adding aquarium salt with your water changes along with vacuuming the bottom and cleaning the filter. Consider a different type of filtration, as well. (Bob doesn't like hang-on filters for Bettas - rightly so - but mine is in a 20-gallon tank (~ 75 liters), so I've got some latitude. :) )>>
I thank you very much for any advice at all. This site has been tremendously helpful to me and to my friends who recommended it.
<<Anything else I can help with, Erika, just post it. Tom>>

Betta/Corydoras Comp., Sys.   8/2/06
I love your site! It is so helpful and the best one I have come across.  I have a new male Betta in a 3 gallon, filtered tank. It has silk plants. He refuses to eat anything but frozen Brine Shrimp
<Need to expand this diet... not nutritious completely>
and it an active little sucker.   My question is .. . is a 3 gallon too small to add a Cory catfish to?
<Mmm, no... is not too small for a small/ish species of Corydoras>
I am concerned about the size of the tank and how active the Betta is. Being that Bettas are territorial, I worry that adding a Cory is not a good idea. What are your thoughts?
Thanks!
Dawn
<Should get along fine. There is an occasional "super mean" male Betta that comes along, but most are so "autistic" that they leave such armored cats be. Please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/betcompfaqs.htm
Bob Fenner>
Hi There,
<Hello again!>
Sorry, I found the answer. I kept reading and reading and found the same question. Whew! Thanks again!
Dawn
<Welcome. BobF>

Betta water temp.   8/2/06
Hello,
<<Hi, Bridget. Tom here.>>
I have a Betta who lives in an Eclipse Hex 5 gallon tank by himself.  Here in New England, we are having a heat wave, and I have no air conditioning in my house.  
<<I do. I can tell from my electric bills! :)>>
The thermometer on his tank only goes up to 86 degrees, which I suspect the water temperature has surpassed.  The room he is in is currently 90 degrees, but tomorrow's forecast is for temps nearing 100!  
<<You're going to get what we had in Michigan. Sorry.>>
I know Bettas like warm water, but I'm wondering if these temperatures are dangerously hot for him.  
<<There will be some evaporation with associated cooling but, likely, it won't be substantial enough to keep it where he'd prefer it.>>
Should I be concerned, and if so, can you suggest a safe way to cool the water?  
<<In all honesty, I wouldn't be that concerned. It's sudden changes that will pose a larger problem than gradual ones will. Better than small water changes, which I'm sure you considered, I would try to run a small fan over the top of the tank to increase evaporation. This might entail some make-up water depending on how effectively the air movement contributes to evaporation. I assume you're getting equivalent humidity levels to what we had, as well, which will inhibit evaporation to an extent. Keep any lights over the tank off and, obviously, keep the tank out of any direct sunlight. A little side note: Next time you visit the supermarket, take a stroll through the aisle that has all of those lovely utensils in it and see if they have what looks to be like a very slender meat thermometer. The thermometer face is about the size of a quarter and sits on top of a metal "stem" about five inches long. (May be in a protective plastic tube.) Mine is graduated for commercial refrigeration work from -40F to 160F and is the "cat's meow" for checking tank temps. and for water changes. It responds very quickly and can actually be adjusted/calibrated for accuracy by immersing it in ice water and turning the face until the dial reads 32F. Just a tip, for what it's worth.>>
I've read tips about floating a baggie with an ice cube in it, but that seems extreme for such a small tank.
<<With cold water fish like Goldfish/White Cloud Minnows, I would consider this an effective, short-term remedy. Not so with your Betta. Dropping tank temperatures is much touchier than raising them is. I would avoid this one.>>
I should note he is acting normal and looks fine, no signs of stress that I can see.  
<<Glad to hear this and, hopefully, it will continue until Mother Nature throws some relief at us. (Hope we get it tonight here as promised. It's starting to wear a bit thin, if you know what I mean. :)>>
Just checking, many thanks for your help!
Bridget
<<Good luck and stay cool, if possible! Tom>>

Bettas, community tanks, and dividers   7/28/06
Hello:
<<Hello. Tom here.>>
I have a fully cycled 29 gallon tank that I do a water change on every weekend. I have five danios, two male guppies, four Corydoras catfish, and five neon tetras.
<<Sounds nice.>>
I recently purchased a male Betta, but not before getting a Penn Plax divider in the tank.
The other fish have two thirds of the tank now and the Betta has one third, so on the Betta's side his section is higher than it is wide and he swims up and down a lot.
<<He wants/needs to breathe surface air, as you probably already know. It's a lot of activity for a fish that's accustomed to not having much room to move around in.>>
He was friendlier when I first got him a week ago, but he is now acting afraid of me when I come up to the tank.
<<I suspect all the exercise is leaving him a bit exhausted/stressed. You've done great by giving him plenty of space but it really needs to be a lower/longer setup.>>
A friend of mine said that he is stressed because he can see the other fish that he probably wants to kill and can't get at them.
<<Your friend needs to do some homework. Your Betta isn't the least bit interested in fighting with, or killing, your other fish. In fact, your tank divider wouldn't really be necessary if you could trust the others to not go fin-nipping on him. A big reason for not mixing Bettas and other tropical fish is that Bettas prefer warmer temperatures than tropical fish typically like. He'd be quite happy at 82-84 degrees which is much warmer, relatively speaking, than your other guys would tolerate without problems.>>
I was wondering if I should buy him his own tank or get rid of the other fish and let the Betta have the whole 29 gallons to himself.
<<I'd go for a separate tank for the Betta. 29 gallons is far bigger than he needs by himself. Much as we stress "bigger is better" where aquariums are concerned, in this case, it would be "wasteful". Besides, why get rid of your other fish when you can very economically set up a really nice tank for the Betta?>>
Thank you
<<You're welcome.>>

Tybalt the Betta   7/27/06
Hi,
<<Hello, Amelia. Tom here.>>
I convinced my parents to buy me a pet for my fifteenth birthday, which was May 27, so a few days beforehand I came home to a deep blue Betta in a 1-gallon tank that the box said was "specifically designed for Bettas and first-time owners".
<<I wish they'd specifically design a tank in the 5- to 10-gallon range for Bettas. Might be less problems. ;)>>
At first I was disappointed, having expected a cat, but I soon grew very attached to the little guy, named Tybalt for the character in Romeo and Juliet.  
<<A cat. A Betta. Not much difference. :)>>
I read up on Betta care and got a thermometer that sticks to the inside of his tank, and I placed the tank under a lamp, still saving money to buy a light to leave on all the time.  He was really hyper and quirky at first, and I would sit for long periods of time watching him "sneak up" on the thermometer, touch it (it shakes slightly at the softest touch), and "run away".  Then I went to the mountains with my grandparents last week and left vivid instructions on when my mom should feed him (three times a day, flake food that came with the tank).  When I came back four days later scum had built up on the sides of his tank and the plastic plant in it, and Tybalt was lying on the gravel on the bottom, just beneath his plant.
<<Not good.>>
I did a full water change just so I could clean the brownish-green scum off, and at first he seemed a little happier.  But that's been about a week and he still isn't his old self (he doesn't play with his thermometer and he rarely even moves from his spot under the plant).  
<<Couple of things come to mind but let's go on...>>
Then I noticed that when I'd feed him he wouldn't come to his food (usually he attacked it).  He usually ate the freeze-dried blood worms I gave him as a treat like it was going out of style, but now he won't touch it.  
<<Not unusual if he's stressed or "blocked up". How does his belly look? Any signs of bloating? Bettas are designed as "meat eaters" and flake food that's high in vegetable matter may not sit well.>>
I have no idea how to check water quality, but I've been using the same water the whole time and he hasn't suffered.  
<<A test kit would tell you what you need to know. Fairly simple to use, as well. You could also take a sample to the fish store and ask them to test it for you. Ask for the specific readings if you do this. When you experience problems, having the exact parameters can tell a great deal.>>
I also use the conditioner that came with the tank, although I lost it and didn't have it for one change this summer (I change about one-fourth of the water in the tank every week and add half a capful of conditioner to it, like the instructions said).  
<<This could be an area for concern, too. Tap water that's treated with Chloramine has Ammonia in it. A conditioner that treats only Chlorine would leave the Ammonia behind. A number of conditioners/dechlorinators now treat for both Chlorine and Chloramine. I'd opt for one that does both.>>
I just went and looked in on him.  The temperature is almost 80, so I turned the lamp off for the night, and he was lying under the plant again.  I worry about my dad having the air conditioner on seventy all day so it's less that seventy in his tank, and when I turn the lamp on he turns it off.  My dad doesn't understand the concept that he's not "just a fish".  
<<You might "gently" explain to your dad that wide swings in temperature can harm or, kill, your pet. Fish aren't designed the way mammals/people are. Even small but sudden swings in temperature can wreak havoc on a fish's system. Tybalt is beautifully built to breathe air like we do but if the surface air is colder than the tank temperature, he can die from breathing it. (Our body systems heat the air as we breathe it in. A fish can't do this.)>>
I just want Tybalt to be healthy and lively again.  I'm particularly worried because we're going to the beach next week, Sunday through Wednesday, so my grandmother will be taking care of him.  Is it possible that he just missed me?  
<<I wish I could tell you that he did, Amelia. The $50 word for this is "anthropomorphism", which is simply people trying to place human-like characteristics on animals and other non-human entities. Sadly, Tybalt doesn't have the capacity to "miss" you in the way that you and I know the meaning of it. On the flip side, my guys sure know when I come home from work that it's time to eat! Might be something to it after all. :)>>
Would taking him to my grandmother's be bad or good while we're away (she lives within shouting distance)?  
<<Wouldn't it be better for her to be able to keep an eye on him at her house?>>
Also, his bottom fin, the one below his tailfin, is twisted.  I didn't notice until I held a mirror up to his tank tonight, just to see if he'd move.  His gills puffed up, but the rest of him stayed limp.  I haven't been giving him the mirror lately, because he was so spazzy over the thermometer I thought that was enough exercise.  But his bottom fin was twisted, not injured I don't think, just like when you curl your hair around your finger, that shape.
<<Three areas of concern from what you've described here, Amelia. Diet, with perhaps not enough "meat". Include some live insects, if possible. Your water conditioner/dechlorinator and, of course, temperature swings. Frankly, I'd concentrate on the latter two. Get a conditioner like NovAqua+ (Kordon's) that handles both Chlorine and Chloramine and, do whatever is possible to keep Tybalt's tank at 80-84 degrees all the time. Stability is really the key here with no big swings in any of the parameters.>>
Please help me get my lovely active Betta back,
Amelia
PS. Sorry it was so long, I worry easily and I really want someone to be able to tell me what I should fix.
<<No apologies necessary, Amelia. By the way, Bettas appreciate some "aquarium salt" in their water. One third of a tablespoon for his tank, at the most. Should help, though. My best to you. Tom>>

Moving day... Betta sys. and dis.   7/26/06
Hi Bob, everyone,
I'll soon be heading to college and that means moving my little 2.5 g tank + Betta along with me. College is about 40 min.s away from home. Obviously this isn't as serious an endeavor as some of the moves I've read about on WWM, but I want to do right by my fish. Plan is as follows. I feel a bit silly posting this among people faced with moving large glass marine systems... but... I'd like to know if I'm doing this wrong/could do it better.
<Hotay!>
Night before
   1. Half-fill a quart-sized Ziploc with tank water, add Terrence,       leave open.
   2. Siphon and bottle 1 gal of tank water. (I'm expecting the water on       campus to be different from home... different cities.. different
      counties, actually)
<Likely so>
   3. Pull filter cartridge, sponge, carbon and place in another tank       water Ziploc with a few flakes of fish food.
<No food necessary or desired>
Seal. (Is leaving air       inside this important?)
<Yes>
   4. Discard gravel. (It's colored and it seems like some of the color       is coming off... I don't want it in my water. I have some
      non-dyed, natural stuff that I plan on using instead when I move.)
<Do rinse this now... move moist...>
   5. Remove all remaining stuff from tank, clean all in bleach       solution. (How much bleach to water...?)
<A teaspoon or so should do it... wear gloves, rinse well...>
   6. Pack all but Terrence into a box.
Moving day
   7. Seal Terrence’s bag with lots of air inside and hold in lap.
   8. Unpack everything in new room.
   9. Add new gravel and cleaned appliances. Add tank water.
  10. Condition balance of water and add to tank.
  11. Replace filtration and turn everything on.
  12. When tank has reached 80 degrees (same as home), remove hood and       float Terrence’s bag for a few hours.
  13. Replace Terrence and hood, leave lights off.
An update for "Mr. White Dot" Bob... Terrence developed a nasty case of fin rot (he's had fin rot before, but never such a fast-acting case) and his white dots/patches started looking a bit fuzzy. After a good water change I picked up some Jungle "Fungus Clear" (Nitrofurazone, Furazolidone, potassium dichromate...
<A good choice here>
the furans treat bacterial conditions if I have my reading straight, but I'm not sure what the potassium dichromate is for...
<To "burn" most any/everything on the outside...>
and I'm not sure if it was one of the "active ingredients" but the tablets dye the water green/blue.) As per
the box directions, after four days I did a 25% water change and re-dosed. His fins stopped receding/began regrowing, which was the
purpose of getting the stuff, and the white patches receded during the beginning of the treatment but then mostly came back in exactly the same places, but they looked flatter, more defined than they did before. A week went by, still have white patches but only about 80-90% of previous coverage... am now two days into a second treatment in hopes I can knock out a few patches. Not sure if I have any real questions, but feel free to suggest/comment/admonish as you see fit. I'm feeling shaky about treating with Praziquantel since he doesn't match any of the flukes/worms/lice descriptions.
<I would not use this then/here>
Thanks for all your help... I'm always reading and learning. Two things I do daily: read the comics and read the FAQs.
Rachel
<Heee! Wish I had time (and interest) in the comics... the "news" is tragi-comical enough... BobF>

Re: Moving day... Betta sys. and dis.   8/17/06
Hi Bob!
<Rachel>
Terrence was just introduced to his new home and is displaying a good amount of curiosity as he takes in the new tank setup. Thankfully the
water is not too much different... maybe 40 ppm more alkaline. For now all is well! Thanks!
Rachel
<Thanks for this update. BobF>

Betta system   7/25/06
Dear WWM Crew,
I was given a 2-gallon tank with a submerged filter (a Hagen Elite mini, sponge filter). (I do realize it is on the small side for Betta raising...) The filter, even on its lowest setting, creates a current that seems too strong. I read your FAQ response about finding a way to divert the flow--do you have any suggestions for safe ways of doing so?
<<Perhaps place a rock for the filter output to ‘break’ onto.>>
Two other questions--
I read through the article on getting an aquarium to complete a cycle--I just wanted to confirm a couple of things. If using water
<<Very little nitrifying bacteria if found in the water column>>
and "matter" from an old aquarium, do I simply add it to my existing tank and continue testing the nitrate, nitrite, ammonia levels until they return to zero... then introduce the fish? (I'm an absolute tyro, if it hasn't already become apparent.)
<<No, because if the bacteria have no ammonia to eat, they will die.  A fishless cycle can be done by adding seeded filter material, and adding ammonia of decaying fish food to feed the bacteria, until ammonia and nitrite are at 0, and you are reading nitrate.>>
Thank you for all your assistance and all the FAQs. I will keep browsing  them.
<<Please do.  Lisa.>>
~Allison

Tired Betta? Bowls... they've got names, but no decent environment  7/19/06
Hi!
I read thru your section where you answer questions and was thrilled at the info you provide, thanks so much! My questions are these:
About three months ago we bought two male Bettas. My three year old named them Max and Ruby after his favorite cartoon. Max is blue tinted, very
active and it sounds like very lucky that I cracked his TINY plastic bowl while cleaning it. He has been transferred to a one gallon bowl and seems to be in heaven.
<Closer to it>
My concern is for Ruby (I agreed to the feminine name because he's a mostly burgundy color...)When we got him he was the healthiest looking of the bunch
(got Max a few days later--store got a new shipment) although when I put him in his (again, TINY) bowl I was able to see that the ends of his fins were
pretty rough looking and he seemed lethargic (can a fish be lethargic?).
<Oh yes>
After getting Max I could see that Ruby wasn't nearly as active as his neighbor, but I think he just needed healthy conditions and some peace and
quiet because he perked up considerably for a while. In the last two weeks or so he has become MUCH less active unless I place his and Max's bowls next
to each other. Now he mostly hangs out at the top of his bowl in one particular spot and rarely moves. What can I do to help him, besides a much
bigger bowl, which he is getting this week?
<Really? Get them a filtered system, with heater...>
I also noticed what I would call bubble foam where he usually hangs out, floating on the top of the water.
I realized from reading the posts that I have been WAY overfeeding, and I am also going to get bloodworm food (for a little variety) when I pick up Ruby's new bowl.
My water temp. is pretty steady, between 75 and 78 degrees,
<Even at nighttime? I doubt this... and what will happen when the weather cools?>
the water (chlorine, ammonia, etc.) is within specs., too. I let Max and Ruby "view" each other for about 10 minutes every couple of days, and clean (because of
the old small bowls) their bowls completely 2x a week.
<A bad idea>
Is there anything else I can do to help Ruby perk up? Would adding a real or fake plant help at all? Am I doing everything I can to keep them healthy? Thank you so very
much for any suggestions!
Cherish
<Time to send you back... to read: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/bettasysart.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Re: tired Betta?    7/20/06
Thanks for your suggestions and the link. They helped lots and Ruby is perking up already. My husband swears Ruby has been more active in just one
day than he has been in the last two weeks!
<Yaaaaay!!! BobF>

Betta, Curling Fins, Disease? No - 07/04/2006
Greetings WWM Crew!
<Hello, again!>
The more time I spend on your site, the more I'm impressed.
<And probably less impressed with this response time....  please accept my apology....  I fear that your email came to us in a format that few (read: me) in the Crew can respond to, and I've been a bit tardy these last few days....>
Thank you for this incredible service to the fish fanatic community! :-)
<Thank you very, very much for these kind words....  this means a great deal to me, and all on the Crew.  Thank you.>
My 5-year-old daughter chose a male Betta for her birthday last October. His name is Marigold. He is housed in a betta bowl (which I now understand is not best and will consider moving him)
<Please do, thank you.  If you'd like a recommendation, I like using Marineland's Eclipse 3 systems for Bettas.  If the filter is too strong for them (never had that problem with mine), you can put a filter sponge over the intake.>
for which she does partial water changes every 7-10 days (although it never appears that it needs it).
<Be testing - small bowls like this never truly cycle; should be changed in its entirety every couple of days unless the space is a gallon or more.  If it is in fact less than a gallon, should be upgraded quite soon.>
She uses dechlorinated water (tap water set to air out 24 hours in advance) and adds a pinch of aquarium salt.
<If your local water treatment includes chloramine, this is inadequate - you will need something to neutralize chloramine.  Most places in the US now add this to our tapwater, sadly.>
She faithfully feeds him pellets every day. (Another change we'll make now that I know they prefer a varied diet.)
<And rather than feeding on a daily basis, consider feeding every other day or so - it's easier to kill a Betta by overfeeding him than underfeeding him.>
I've noticed that recently his fins are curling on the ends. I searched your site reading all of the Betta articles and couldn't find any occurrence of this.
<Is very common, and not a problem.  Many Bettas get interesting fin formations, either curling or extensions to the rays of the fins, or other neat things.>
It doesn't sound like one of the common betta diseases you explain in detail on the site. Is it something about which to be concerned?  
<Nope.  Sounds good to me.>
Thank you for your time.
<Glad to be of service.>
Sophie's Mom
<I do hope Sophie and Marigold have a wonderful time together!  Ask Sophie to say hi to him for me.  -Sabrina>

Tank thoughts, more "white dots" (for Bob), Bettas in Mini-Bows, Disease   6/28/06
Hi Bob,
<Call me "Mr. White Dot" from now on, please. Heeee!>
Re: the woman considering getting a Betta for her nephew... I have my Betta in the 2.5g Mini-Bow kit she mentioned.  Based on the very little fishkeeping experience I have, I'd recommend it.  I've had a few, easily remedied problems with this tank, as follows, but the tank is so much easier than a bowl, and it comes with so much stuff, that I'd never trade it back.
<Ahh, thank you for this>
As could be expected, the incandescent bulb heats the water while it's on.  I replaced mine with a small fluorescent "bulb" meant for an Eclipse 3 tank, and the temperature never fluctuates more than one degree.  Plus, it uses less electricity and it looks a lot better.  We're all happy.
<Good, and good suggestion>
After a few instances of sudden shredding of Terrence's fins, I suspect that he gets them caught in the filter impeller because he likes to hide in the "cave" underneath the filter.  I've covered the intake with a piece of filter sponge.  (And I gave him something else to hide under, a little plastic bridge.  He loves it--swims through it, lays on it, sleeps under it...)
<Quite a character>
The tank has a full hood, which does keep the humidity up, but it sort of unnerved me to seal him in like that.  I leave the little feeding door open so there's some air circulation, though that's maybe more to comfort myself than out of necessity.  (And although it's not an issue for Bettas, it's a tall tank, so surface area is on the small side.)
<Better than having the fish exit stage up>
If you have to take the filter out or move it, unstick the suction cups by wedging something between them and the tank wall.  Don't ever, ever just pull.  The suction cup will come out of the filter and you have to do some serious mutilation of the cup's attachment to get it back in.  And if you don't put it back in, the water that comes into the filter will just go out the hole where the cup was.
<Yikes, another statement to be heeded>
And there are two noise issues.  Occasionally the suction cup on the back of the filter gets too squished, and the filter makes the whole tank vibrate... I just unstick the suction cup and let the filter settle back down without pressing.  And, the cover over the light may need to be screwed in more tightly so it doesn't vibrate.
Whew!  That's a lot of words for such a small tank.  Sorry.  Just thought I'd share.  It took me quite a bit of frustration (and the application of a pocket knife) to fix that suction cup.
<Understood>
While I'm here-- the dots on Terrence have started to spread, very slowly, and the ones that disappeared when I added salt have either come back, or they never really disappeared at all (sometimes they're hard to see).  So at the moment, I still have Doc Wellfish's aquarium salt at 1 tbs/5 gallons (which should help if it's ich or fungus, right?), I've raised the temperature from 80 to 86 over the last three days (for ich), and I've been keeping the light off (on the off chance that it's velvet.  The salt/temp. killed my Elodea so I don't have anything to lose but some nuisance algae).  ANN is 0-0-10.
I read on one of the Betta disease links that during treatment, salt concentration can be increased to 1 tsp/gallon, which would allow me to add another teaspoon to the tank.  Is this possible/beneficial at this point?
<Not likely. I do think it's time to move on to vermifuges, fluke treatments... Harsh, but should show either a cure or on to the next...>
I don't want to stress the little guy out too much, especially since he doesn't seem listless and still has a great appetite.  And I really don't want to add medication when I don't know what this stuff is (I'll try to get a picture, but my brother has the digital camera right now.  At least, he's gone and I can't find it, so he either took it or hid it).  But I'm worried now since the spots have started to spread, albeit slowly.
What, if anything, would you recommend at this point?
<Prazi/quantel...>
Oh, and just to let you know since you were concerned about it last time--I didn't get an email response to my last question.  Again, not a problem for me since I read the FAQs daily! :)  I copy/pasted it along with the other responses below.
Thanks, and sorry for the long-windedness.
From a very rainy NC,
Rachel
<Wish it would (finally) rain here (San Diego), we could/can use the water. Bob Fenner>
Hi Bob,
Recently the white mottled patches on Betta Terrence started looking more like white dots... remarkably like ich, in fact.  Although I obviously wasn't sure it was ich, I decided to cover my bases by adding salt as a mild treatment: a half tablespoon (i.e. 1 tablespoon per five gallons) of Doc Wellfish's.  (Terrence had had the same amount of salt in his tank a few months ago with no ill effects, though I had already gradually taken it out with water changes.)
<Good>
It's been five days since I added the salt, and today I noticed that a good number of the dots on his head have faded or disappeared.
<Even better>
The tank temp is, as always, between 79 and 81 degrees.  Water parameters are the same: ammonia 0, nitrites 0, nitrates 10 to 15.
Is/was it ich, in your opinion?
<Mmm, possibly>
I'm horrified he could've had ich for that long (since mid-April).  I could have introduced ich with plants from my LFS-- not sure of the date I brought them home, probably early April, but it was before I found WWM and was enlightened about QT.
On an unrelated note: I know my teensy system of 2.5g isn't enough to support anything else, beyond maybe a shrimp, but since Terrence is getting old I was wondering what else could be kept in it after he goes to the Big Puddle in the Sky.  My DO is 5.5, which I've read is a bit low,
<Tis okay though, particularly for Bettas... Anabantoids are facultative to obligate aerial respirators... can/have to breath surface air...>
so I was thinking of getting another anabantoid, and I read your suggestion to another small-system owner that some species of Gourami would work.  Would a dwarf Gourami be small enough?   
<Should be, yes>
('Till then I'm hoping to keep my lone and happy Betta!)
Thanks for all you do-- you have no idea how many of my questions have already been answered by the wealth of info on WWM!
Rachel (Terrence's mom)
<Thank you for sharing, writing so well. Bob Fenner>

Betta Fish sys. and beh.   6/24/06
<<Hi. Tom here.>>
How do we find out if Betta fish can jump out of their  bowls?
<<I'm not quite certain that I know what you're asking. If you want to know if it's possible, the answer is "yes". Actually, they're well-adapted for this as a matter of survival in their native habitats.
If you want to know if yours will try to jump out of its bowl, probably not. As long as water conditions are good and your pet's bowl isn't kept near another bowl housing a female that he'd like for a "girlfriend" or, a male that he wants to "tangle" with, he'll be happy to stay put. Put a cover on his bowl for a week or so to give him a point of reference, i.e. the surface. This should make it quite unlikely that he'll go "adventuring" by mistake. Tom>>

Siamese Fighting fish, no info.   6/22/06
Greetings!
I have a Betta that I bought in February, which has recently been not acting as normal
<As?>
Firstly, he has stopped eating the "Betta flakes" that came with him when I bought him.
<Don't blame him there... unpalatable>
Is it possible that these are now stale, and don't taste so nice?
<Likely so, yes>
I have bought him Freeze dried bloodworms, and for a while, these went over well, but now he isn't really keen on them either.
Secondly, on his back (Dorsal) he has a long white section, which he didn't have originally. Only showed up a couple of weeks ago. It's exactly the size
and shape of the area that sits out of the water when he floats at the surface, is about 15mm long, and 2mm from the top of his body.
I don't think its Ich, because it's not a spot and it's not raised, and I couldn't find anything else about such a random change.
Cheers, Phil
<...? Is this animal in a heated, filtered system? Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/bettasysart.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Betta male or female, lying on bottom but still eating plenty    6/14/06
Hello,
The label on the container said "male beta".   I want to know if what I really got was a female.  I haven't seen it flaring at all and its fins are thin and sparse.  How do I tell which sex it is?
<With growth, time going by it will be obvious. Male Bettas are considerably larger, with more flowing finnage, more "outgoing" behavior than females>
And now,  it seems to be lightening up to almost "color-void" all over (except the fins).  I've had it for about a month and its appetite is really good.  As a matter of fact, it always seems thrilled with feeding time.  The problem is, for the last week it has been staying on the bottom of the bowl, only moving around when I move the bowl.  It rockets around the bowl like I scared it half to death then it darts right back down to the bottom again.  Sometimes it even looks like it is trying to hide under the gravel.  
<Don't live in bowls very long or well in general...>
Where we live, our tap water is VERY chlorinated.  (I've even had a hairdresser ask me if I just got out of a swimming pool when I went to get my freshly home shampooed hair trimmed.)
<Good point>
  I've been using spring water out of a jug to replace the bowl water.  Is that acceptable?
<Possibly. "Spring" water is not a given quality>
I've been to afraid to use our tap water even if I leave it out, because of the amount of chlorine in it.  What's wrong with my fish?  
<Better to leave this source water out for a week or more before using...>
Her name is Angel.  (If it's a boy I guess its name is Angelo)
Thanks so much,
Stacey
<Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/bettasysart.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

New Betta Owner 6/12/06
Hello,
<Hi>
I've just recently purchased my first set of Bettas.  They are both females.  I have them in a 2 1/2 gal fish bowl, with a live plant, gravel, etc.   However, even though I was told two females can be housed together, I felt a need to separate them. The one female was always 'nudging' the other. <Best to keep these separated like the males, they can be just as nasty to each other.> They were both pretty active when I first put them in their nice, roomy bowl, but then the one that was being 'nudged', seemed to slow down.
<Too much stress from being picked on.>
I'm not sure, but I think her lower fins may have been bit off a bit. <Not surprising.>  I didn't pay much attention when I first got her, and what they looked like, but looking at the other one, it doesn't look the same at all.  It looks a bit 'nibbled' if you know what I mean.  My question is this, could the one beta be stressed, and that is why she slowed down? <Yep>  Will her fins grow back out, if it was indeed bit on? <With proper care/environment.> Do you think if I had left her in the same
bowl, she would have adjusted to the nudging, or would she become more stressed, and die? <Would have become an ex-fish.>  Should I keep them separated now? <Absolutely.>
Also, if the water should be kept in the 70s, how do I warm it to the 70s if I have no heater in the bowl? <Need to get a heater.>  I'm not sure what temp the water is (I *assume* it's room temperature), but I will purchase a thermometer next time I'm at the pet store. <Please make this a priority.>  In the meantime, how does one keep the water in the 70s if they are in a simple fish bowl?  <Need to get a heater and thermometer ASAP.>
Oh, and everything I've read thus far has a different opinion on how many times to feed.  I was feeding mine twice a day, but they didn't eat the food immediately. <Twice a day is fine, just cut back on the amount.>  I also think mine are quite young still, so maybe twice a day at this point would be too often? <Twice a day is fine, just feed less, they need very little food per feeding.> What is your expert opinion on this?
Oh, and in your article, you mention about  'Betta Bowls", wall-mounted "Betta containers", Betta Vase Set ups" and that they are cruel. Why is that? <Unstable, inadequate filtration.  Also people are uniformed on the requirements for the fish.>  I didn't purchase any of those (just a regular  2 1/2 gal  fish bowl), but am curious as to why they are cruel.   What IS best for them? <We keep ours in 3 gallon filtered aquariums.> I don't want an aquarium, even though they are beautiful, they are high maintenance, and I don't want that. <You already have an aquarium, but its shaped like a bowl.  Heating, filtering, regular maintenance are required to keep any fish.>  I have 15 other animals that I need to care for, so I need to keep it as low maintenance as possible, but still want to do the right thing for them.  <They can be fairly low maintenance, less that an hour a week easily, but some basic work is required.  While your bowl, once a heater is added, it not the worst place for a betta, they really do need some basic filtration.  This can be accomplished by adding a small sponge filter to the bowl, or purchasing a small aquarium with a light and filter built in.  For about $50 total your fish will be quite happy.>
My next purchase will be 2 males (kept separately, of course), and placed side by side with the females.   I'm really enjoying my new 'pets', but want to do the right things.  Any advice you can give would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance for you advice!
Lynn
<Unfortunately bettas are often sold as maintenance free fish, however this is far from the truth.  They require the same as any other fish to be really healthy, it just that they can survive (not thrive) in conditions that will kill most other fish.>
<Hope this helps.>
<Chris>

Feeling helpless about my Betta  - 06/11/06
Hi there,
<Hi Katherine, this is Jorie.>
I am at my wits end about my Betta, Napoleon. I spend a lot of time browsing WWM in my free time and I've tried very hard to make
Napoleon's environment as close to ideal as possible. And yet he keeps getting fin rot. He had it about a month ago, but then I started medicating him with Furan-2 at the suggestion of a WWM crew member. It seemed completely cleared up by a week or so ago, so I stopped medicating him and it started to look like his fins were growing back with very thin pieces in between the old splits. However, yesterday I noticed that these thin growth was shredding and splitting like his fins did earlier. He clearly has fin rot again, but I was wondering why he keeps getting it. I noted on WWM that it said that these illnesses rarely just "pop up" without environmental factors, but I can't figure out what these factors are in my case. I keep Napoleon in a cycled, Eclipse System 3 tank with Ammonia and Nitrite at 0, Nitrate below 20, and PH of 7.4. It is heated to just above 80 degrees. He has a few fake silk plants in his tank, in which I change 1/2 of the water about once a month now that it is cycled. I feed him 6 Hikari Betta Bio-Gold pellets daily and the occasional pea, he won't eat frozen bloodworms despite my best efforts to convince him. I feel like I'm doing everything I can to take excellent care of my Betta, and he's
sick anyway. Is there anything I can change to make him healthier?
<Katherine, I keep two bettas in identical setups (i.e., 3 gal. Eclipse tanks) and the only difference between our two systems is that I do 50% water changes 1x per week, instead of your 1x per month.  I'd suggest upping the amount of H20 changes you do and see if that improves the situation.  I'll be willing to bet your nitrate level will drop further and the situation will resolve itself.  Also, when was the last time you changed the carbon filter in that tank? I change mine about once every 4-6 weeks.  Everything else you describe sounds good...I think more water changes is your best bet here.  Good luck!>
Thank you,
Katherine
<You're welcome. Jorie>

Sick betta fish... not reading   6/9/06
I need some guidance with treatment for my daughters betta.  We have had Betta's for over 6 mo's and have had several situations.  We have had this fish for 2 wks. now.  Almost as soon as we put him in the tank he was lethargic and would not eat.
<Not good signs>
  This was a newly started tank (new rocks and the tank was cleaned with boiling water after the old fish got sick from an algae eater we introduced, both died).
<... the system was cycled?>
We used distilled water
<Not a good idea>
with 1/8tsp salt to the 1 gallon tank.
<Too small...>
  After day 2 his top fin and upper part of his tail fin turned black and disintegrated and fell off.  I added Fungus Clear by tank buddies
<...>
and he looked like he was on the mend.  He started to eat which he hadn't done since we had gotten him.  Now where the fins fell off there are white cottony looking growths.  Now what do I try?  Any help would be appreciated.  I'm not getting good advice at the pet store.  Also, will the fins grow back?
<If not lost too far back>
Thanks!
Kris
<... Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/bettasysart.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Bamboo and Bettas - 05/31/2006
I was wondering what your views on bamboo compatibility with Bettas might be.  
<What, live bamboo?  It can't live fully underwater; it will die.  It must have at least all of its leaves and much of its stem above water and won't live long otherwise.> <<RMF has used dried bamboos as UW ornamentation>>
I've been reading your stuff and have decided that I really value your guy's opinions.
<I'm glad you find the site useful, thanks!>
-Maddy-
<Wishing you well,  -Sabrina>

Betta Home 5/31/06
Hi
<Hi>
I just bought a Betta fish and I wanted to make sure I am doing everything right.  I have him in a 3/4 gallon fish bowl but I was reading about how you seem to be against fish bowls. <Yes, too unstable.> I know that I'm supposed to have a water heater but I live in Cabot Arkansas and it is normally pretty warm. <Temperature fluctuations need to be avoided too.> Do you still recommend that I get a heater? <Yes, and a filter of some sort.>
-Maddy-
<Chris>

Something alien in my Betta bowl    5/27/06
<<Hello, Kim. Tom here.>>
Today my male beta was jumping out of the bowl for about an hour, and after he had calmed down I noticed a small round thing in the bottom of his bowl.  It is a little smaller than a peppercorn and slightly reddish in color. Do you know what it is?  Please let me know.
<<A little unusual, Kim, but I'd say your Betta was slightly "compacted". In other words, whatever he ate turned into a blockage, of sorts, until he was able to eliminate it, which I can only guess wasn't very comfortable. The coloration may simply be due to the food (?) that led to the build-up. Some fish will forage at the bottom of the tank and inadvertently swallow a small piece of gravel. Just a "for instance" here but these things do happen.>>
Thanks, Kim
<<Any time. Tom>>

New Betta Home 5/25/06
I am looking for a 5 gallon aquarium that I can add an underground  filter, a small heater, hood, and light.  I can not find anything around  here.  Can you recommend someone I can contact?  And, would the above be appropriate for him?
Thank You,
Jean B.
<The system sounds fine for a Betta, although I'm not a fan of undergravel filters.  If you can find a tank with a powerfilter I think it would be better.  If the local pet shop/national retailer does not carry these in house they should be available through many online retailers such as Dr. Fosters Smith or Petsmart's'/Petco's web sites.>
<Chris>

Bettas And Plants - 05/19/2006
What kind of plants should I consider to put in with my Betta male??   Sandi
<Lots of options, really....  Depending upon how big the tank is and how much light is available, you might look into Anubias, Java Fern, and/or Java Moss for great hardy low-light options.  -Sabrina>

Two male Bettas, Betta sys. - 5/19/2006
Hello you wonderfully informative crew members!
<<Hey Kristyl!>>
I have a cycling 2.5 gallon filtered tank. The temp stays around 80 degrees and I keep it monitored so I haven't had the need for a heater just yet.
<<Just make sure the temperature doesn’t drop more than 2degrees at night.>>
Anyway, it has a male Betta (Quincy) in it.
<<I thought you said it was still cycling?>>
He is a happy blue Crowntail, who loves to blow bubbles and swims feverishly every time I near the tank. I also have a freshly healed Betta (Leo) in a small quarantine tank. He was put with a female, per Petco, and took a beating. He has made a wonderful and fast recovery.
<<Good work.>>
My question is this, there is a divider available for my tank, it is not opaque, but rather clear, and has small slits throughout it, to let water move freely through. Is this mean or harmful to either one?
<<Constant aggression can be very stressful.>>
If they see each other they both flare like mad, obviously. This is a Tetra brand tank, and it is recommended for Betta fish.
<<I think a 2.5 gallon is too small to split for two bettas.  I would acquire another tank for your other Betta.  At the very least, use an opaque divider.>>
Thanks so much for your time and patience with us novice fish keepers!
<<Glad to help. Lisa.>>
Kristyl

Betta In An Eclipse 3 - 05/17/2006
Hello,
<Good morning.>
First-timer here.
<Welcome!>
I have a single male Betta splendens (Napoleon Dynamite Lajoie) in a Marineland Eclipse System 3.
<Nice systems.  Perfect, in my opinion, for a male Betta.>
I've read this system provides too much current.
<Oh, I completely disagree.  I have kept many Bettas in these tanks.  Currently, I have a very fine Crowntail in such a system at my workplace.  He's been thriving for months.>
If so, can I devise something to reduce the water flow.  Also I use bottled spring water with aquarium salt, Aquarisol, and a "complete Betta water conditioner" - the brand name escapes me.  
<I would absolutely stop using the Aquarisol; this is a copper medication - toxic.  Should only be used in conjunction with an appropriate copper test kit when treating specifically for an illness (like ich, for instance).  I know the bottle says otherwise, but really, it should not be used constantly like this.>
I've had him over a year - at work - and he seems happy and healthy. He'll flare when I stick my mug or finger close to the tank but he won't throw down his "beard". Do some of these guys not do that?
<Could be a genetic trait, probably nothing to worry about.>
He's a three-dollar Wal-Mart reject, for lack of a better term. But he's cool. I have strictly silk plants - banana plants and tiger lilies and ivy hanging down the back of the tank. Plenty of free water space at the top.  Anyway, I'm mostly concerned about the current in the tank. And whether I'm using the right water/additives.