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FAQs on Freshwater Livestock Acclimation Related Articles:
Acclimation of New Freshwater Livestock, by
Bob Fenner Freshwater
Livestock by Neale Monks, Freshwater
Livestock Selection by Bob Fenner, Fishes, Amphibians,
Turtles,
Related FAQs: Livestocking
Freshwater, Freshwater Livestock,
FW Livestock 2, FW Livestock 3,
FW Livestock 4,
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FW lvstk. acclim., BioSpira status, Allusions
to Incredible Archaeogastropod flix 8/19/08
Hi
Have a few really quick questions
<You do?>
1. I have a tank that should be finished cycling in about two weeks. Same water
source and everything from established tank sitting two feet from new tank. When
I move the fish to new tank do I need to float them? I know usually you have to
or is it ALWAYS have too even for reason I stated?
<Don't float them in the tank. Get a bucket, and half-fill with water from the
aquarium. Float the bag in that. After 5 minutes or so, open the bag and sluice
in a little of the aquarium water. Repeat across 15 minutes or so until the
water in the bag is fully mixed with the aquarium water in the bucket. Then use
your net to lift the fish into the bucket. Why do it this way? Because this
minimises chances of diseases (such as whitespot) getting between the fish shop
and your existing aquarium.>
2. I read that Bio Spira is no longer manufactured. Anybody know the reason why?
<No idea. It didn't always work that well, so perhaps that's why.>
3. Is it possible to train a fish to wear glasses and talk like the great Don
Knotts? If so, I need to get me one of those. (sorry had to throw that in)
<I have no idea who Don Knotts is. Is he like a trained Killer Whale or
something at Seaworld? I've seen that, and Shamu certain did wear stuff like
hats and whatnot, and if I recall sang happy birthday to some kid in the
audience.>
Thank you
<Cheers, Neale.>
<<Thrummmm! RMF>> Acclimating New Fish
Hello, At the pet shop I work at we are having a problem with the freshwater angel
fish we bring in. Commonly experience loss of about 50% or more of the first few days. Having tried various things, I wonder if there is some
point in your guerilla acclimating procedure I could mimic and get more headway.
First how we do it.
Fish arrive as shipments from a company called Coast. The old box with Styrofoam surrounding it. Fish in bags of
bluish water, which I take is
Methylene blue.
< Maybe Start Right by Jungle that is a combination of Meth. blue and salt.>
We float the bags for 20 - 30 minutes. Cut off top of bag with scissors, and gently pour into a specimen container, then using a net
put them directly into the aquarium. {don't have the facility to quarantine, really}
Yes, sometimes we've tried introducing tank water into the shipping bag. I do have concerns of raising the ph of the shipping water, thus making the
ammonium more toxic as ammonia. Might that only be a valid concern if the ph of the shipping water is below 7? 7.4 o.k.?
< Two things going on. If the fish have been in the bags for a long time then there may be a build up of
CO2 in the bag which is an acid and lowers the pH of the water. You are right in the sense that the lower pH has made the ammonia less toxic to the
fish. Check the Ph of the newly opened bag with a pH meter. Add an airstone for 20 minutes and check the pH again. If the pH has risen then the
CO2 has been aerated out of the water and the pH should be closer to your tanks at the store.
The second is a build up of ammonia in the bag. Check the ammonia levels in the bag. The ammonia levels in the water can be quickly
neutralized with chemicals and resins. Neutralize the ammonia then volatize the
CO2. In the 20 minutes that the CO2 is being given off, the fish will lose some of the ammonia back into the water as a waste product. So
there should be less of a pH shock and stress from ammonia.>
Since at work the fish are shipped with 'blue water' already in the bag, should I still make a mix of
Methylene blue in the 'holding water'?
< No, waste of time. >
Shipping in 'blue water' may make testing for ph harder, we use the questionable accuracy of strips from jungle to do it. I could always bring
in a digital ph pen to give me a more accurate number. Is that the best choice?
< Absolutely. Make sure it is calibrated with a standard solution.>
So from the guerilla's mouth I should change the way I acclimate at least my angels to;
Floating the bag for temperature
< Waste of time unless extremely hot or cold>
Remove a portion of holding tank water to a kitty litter bin scissor off the fish bag and test the ph
add enough ph-down to the holding water in the litter bin to match the ph (does that take long?)
< Extreme pH changes should be avoided. Aerate to drive off the CO2,
Neutralize the ammonia.>
8 drops of Methylene blue, tablespoon aquarium salt, band-aid in a bottle nova aqua maybe some
Maracide and Maracyn and an air stone So in essence we have given a medicative dip to a fish at the same time as
acclimation, which does indeed eliminate many of the nasties in shipping bag water.
The salt is purely to help the stressed fish, you apply to this to tetras and S.
American catfish?
< No way. They hate salt!!>
These fish are known to be salt intolerant, but in this instance the salt is short term. Probably best to avoid with elephant
nose fish, though.
< Absolutely.>
Novaqua would be helpful - for physical injury and slime coat damage
< I do like the Kordon products.>
For my work I'm thinking angel fish from Coast, for myself I'm thinking wild caught zebra
Plecos or queen Plecos. Any difference in procedure?
< You are talking captive bred angels with wild caught pleco's. If the pleco's are coming from the same guy then they should be in the same water and the same procedures will apply. Wild pleco's from South America are a different story.>
Thank you for your help. I know I have to chew the fat of the guide for awhile. The airstone contradiction.. the combining of medicating and
acclimating in the same step... but I do see it as working, and perhaps a better way. I should ask to view the acclimation of
sensitive S. American catfish at my LFS, if they don't think I'm stealing their secrets for the competition. Thank
you, again
< If your fish are dying after a few days then there may be something wrong with your tanks too. Baby angelfish are usually at the wholesalers for awhile and get little or no food at all. Once they are in the tank they should get lots of aeration and at least one feeding of live food live worms. Check the nitrates. They should be under 25 ppm, the lower the better.-Chuck>
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