Water chemistry -fancy goldfish   2/6/07
Hello,
<Eileen>
I am having severe water problems in my aquarium. Briefly, I have: 70 gal planted, 4 inch substrate,
<Of what make-up? Hopefully "natural">
4 fancy goldfish (all approx 6 inches & 4-5 years old), 3 Otos (had been breeding in tank before disaster -now many died and one jumped out & died),
<!>
Eheim Prof II,
<Need more filtration than this>
feed 2x per day, Compact fluorescentx2.
Approx 6-8 mon ago I had a sick Oranda. Used multiple things to cure but died after 2 mon. During that time aquarium subjected to 3%salt approx 1 month.
<... Otocinclus don't "like" salt... all fishes don't like nitrogenous poisoning from the use of "medicines" in their main displays>
Some time after it all I decided to do a major clean job because I was having water issues that were not going away with multiple water changes (approx Oct 2006). I cleaned the aquarium & Eheim
<Loss of beneficial (biological filter) microbes...>
and made a major mistake -cleaned filter media in tap water and I scrubbed it really well :(  Well, to make an awful long story short, my tank had to re-cycle. Since then, however, I am continually struggling with Ammonia and nitrites. I have nitrates but as said, aquarium is planted.
<Look into the product BioSpira here>
My plants are also going downhill and struggle to survive -some are not. There are continually pieces of my lilies floating in the water (leaves used to be the size of my hand, now most are only 2 inches).
<Loss of nutrient to boot>
On Jan 24/25 my Eheim broke. To make a long story short, three 120km trips to my pet store for parts and all day to fix it. After it was fixed I had approximately 2-3 days of crystal clear water: Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0, Nitrate 5mg/L; then disaster again: Ammonia 1 mg/L, Nitrite 3 mg/L, Nitrate 5mg/L.
<Yikes>
Friday: I did a 30% water change and results: Ammonia 0, Nitrite 1 mg/L, Nitrate 5mg/L.
Saturday morning: Ammonia 0, Nitrite 3 mg/L, Nitrate 5mg/L.
Saturday night: Ammonia 3 mg/L, Nitrite >10 mg/L -did 40% water change.
Sunday morning: Ammonia 0, Nitrite 1 mg/L, Nitrate 5mg/L.
Sunday night: Ammonia 0, Nitrite 1 mg/L, Nitrate 5mg/L.
I did not test this morning.
Also the water went from crystal clear to lots of small particles flying around. Despite water changes, particles still there.
I use a python & will also take out poop with net if I see it. Both water changes last time had very little detritus. No dead fish or plant material.
<Only use such gravel vacuuming on half the tank's substrate at any given interval>
I am at my wits end. Two of my goldfish are affected now: their tails are showing red veining.
I need 0 Ammonia and 0 Nitrites and can't get it. I use Prime and nitrifying bacteria.
<From?>
I tried increasing the nitrifying bacteria amount once, but this seemed to throw the aquarium into high nitrites faster.
I have tried: multiple water changes -still get the ammonia & nitrites coming back.
<The water changes are the wrong way to go here... they're subtending the establishment of nitrification>>
I have tried using Prime to reduce the ammonia to zero and wait, but the ammonia still comes back <24hrs and the nitrites build to such a point I have to do a water change.
My pet store said I can't have any residual salt in my substrate (which I wondered).
<A good idea to dilute, get rid of>
I have not cleaned my Eheim so the nitrifying bacteria should easily been able to culture the media by now.
What do you suggest?
<See below>
Historically I do a 50% water change 1/wk.
Lately (>2 mon) I am doing 2 to 3 water changes per week ranging from 20% to 75%, depending on ammonia & nitrite levels.
Please help -I am afraid my goldfish will not survive this stress.
I feel if I continually do water changes I am removing my nitrifying bacteria culture.  If I don't my fish will die.  I am also wondering if I even have a culture of nitrifying bacteria at this point -but how could I not?
All test kits, Prime & nitrifying bacteria are within expiry date (Prime & bacteria are new -Jan 07).
Thank you,
  Eileen Reid
<First off, you need a redundant bio-filter... I'd get at least one good-sized hang on powerfilter... And while at the dealers, some of their "old" filter media to place in it... AND the Marineland product BioSpira (the only reliable source of nitrifiers commercially)... AND cut back on feeding to the extreme while any ammonia and/or nitrite is present... And do all this quick... Bob Fenner>

Water Chemistry - Fancy Goldfish, Bob F If Possible Please - 02/06/07
Hello Bob, & thank you for your reply.
I'd like to clarify & add some things for your in-put please...
<Please do>
Sorry, but I don't know what you mean by "redundant" filter, and why it's necessary (I don't doubt you at all, I'd just like to understand...
<Is a sort of "back up" filter plus extra site for biological filtration combo.>
you knew I needed it in two seconds flat,
<Yes my friend... After doing "this" for decades am quite facile... at quickly guessing (with confidence most of the time) and pointing folks in direction...>
yet no one ever offered this advice in my pet stores).
<Ask around...>
  I do have an old small power filter, but what do you think is the best one I should buy if this is for long term?
<This is it... a large/r hang on... really>
I'd like it to do the job you want it to, plus, be very quiet (I don't like the waterfall sound)....please suggest a make/model and size as I trust your judgment...
<Seek out a "Whisper" or "Hagen" product... I think you'll be pleased>
plus my pet stores (5 in all) have never suggested that I need another filter so I don't want to depend on their input for this particular purchase).
<Again... I was a retailer for some 18 years... a consultant for the two largest companies in this field... If you don't trust my input, please... ask others re the underlying logic here>
The make of nitrifying bacteria I use is Big Al's.  I used to use Cycle.
<This Hagen product is unreliable at best... it didn't work for you...>
The substrate is Eco-complete from CaribSea.
<Good>
I will try to find BioSpira here, although I've never seen it at any of these stores -but I've never asked either.  
Last night I realized I made a mistake in my original email's water chemistry values to you so I made corrections and re-sent it this morning -sorry for any confusion.  Here are my corrections and additional questions:
Jan 26: 2-3 days of crystal clear water: Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0, Nitrate 5mg/L;
then disaster again: Ammonia 0.1 mg/L, Nitrite 0.3 mg/L, Nitrate 5mg/L.
Friday: I did a 30% water change and results: Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0.1 mg/L, Nitrate 5mg/L.
Saturday morning: Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0.3 mg/L, Nitrate 5mg/L.
Saturday night: Ammonia 0.3 mg/L, Nitrite 0.8 mg/L -did 40% water change.
Sunday morning: Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0.1 mg/L, Nitrate 5mg/L.
Sunday night: Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0.1 mg/L, Nitrate 5mg/L.
Monday night (Feb.5): Ammonia 0.1, Nitrite 0.3 mg/L -did 50% water change.
Also:
Monday night: My Red cap has taken to lethargically sitting at bottom, alternated with, dashing in aquarium and somehow swimming on his side along the bottom, then flying up to the surface or off to the side, then frantically picking up gravel as if starving half to death. Also when looking from above, his white body looks pinkish in hue now (?red veining). He also lost one scale near his tail and I think he's bloated). Do you think medicated flakes is a good idea here?
I also wrote in my second email this morning:
Historically I over-fed my little guys -which was part of my water problems.  I thought I finally got it right about a year ago but always read any little tidbit regarding amounts that I came across (hoping to have a "real" quantity/measurement defined rather than vague, suggestive amounts. I've tried much more limited amounts (I feed 2x /day), but my fish become very aggressive and bang into each other, start ripping plants, digging out any piece of you-know-what around & underneath the plants. I stopped this and continue to feed flakes & pellets (Omega One) to an amount where it sits a little while on the bottom but when I come back (approx. 1/2 hr) it's gone. They seem to be more relaxed if I do this than if I stand there and dish it out a little at a time. They are very close & friendly to one another if I do it this way.  In any case, where I'm heading with this is: I finally read in your web page an actual gram weight per 6" fancy goldfish. Hallelujah!!!!  "20g" it said.  Off I went & weighed out my food. Well, I stopped at 17g or so...which is a huge handful, and a heaping tablespoon of flake food is only 2g.  Could you review this (?typo) and see if you have a better gram weight I could be feeding them (4x 6 inch fish: 2 Oranda, 1 Red Cap, 1 Black Moor).
Finally, five last questions:
First,
What do you think of my purchasing one of those Eco aqualizer units?
<They're a hoax... See the history of human use of magnets...>
Does it really work?  Would it bring my Ammonia & nitrites to 0 all the time?
<No, no>
Secondly,
I purchased a 9W UV sterilizer Coralife turbo-twist about 4-5 months ago when my fish was sick and died shortly thereafter.  It didn't seem to do any good for the water per se and it was at that time my plants started dying/dwindling at a very high rate and my water quality was turning horrid. I noticed my iron in my water went to zero despite additions and worried that any nutrients I was adding to the water (I use tropica) was getting zapped out.  In short I blamed the UV for my degenerating water quality (I wondered if it was killing my nitrifying bacteria) and dying plants so disconnected it a few months later.  My Pet store said the UV doesn't remove or alter any of the nutrients I was adding so am considering to re-connect it. What do you think?
<Might affect ferrous ion valency... add ozone, raise ReDox... these could very easily affect plant health>
Third,
I read in a reply Gwen sent to someone that professional fancy goldfish keepers who keep their goldfish >20 yrs do 90% water changes once per week.  With my Eheim + your recommended filter, what do you suggest (% and frequency please)?
<This is posted... My friend... please... I do have a life besides helping folks here daily... READ>
I want my water perfect and my little guys to have a long happy life.
Fourth,
At what point can I add my plant nutrients?
<Also posted>
I use Tropica (occasionally switching out with another food), Iron, Excel, Potassium; and as of Jan 26th, Tetra lily grow tabs in my substrate.  I've stopped adding the liquids as of Friday until things get back into control.
<Good>
Fifth & final....and many subsections :-P, re:nitrifying bacteria
a. If I can get BioSpira I will. Do I add it to the Eheim, the hang-on, or both?
<Both>
Please outline frequency of water changes/BioSpira additions  ...and should I add charcoal to the hang-on as well?
<Is on the product label... very simple to use>
b. With this product in use per your direction, How long before I should see un-interrupted 0 Ammonia 0 Nitrites?
<A day perhaps... or two, three>
c. Once I am at 0, do I switch back to Big Al's product for routine water changing?
<Should not need to add... with the proscribed "half" tank cleaning, servicing only one of the power filters per interval... The microbes present reproduce>
d. If yes, do I add it (BA's) to the water (as I do now), or, to the Eheim, the hang-on, or both?
<I would skip on the Al product period>
e. If no, do I add BioSpira with every water change?, and where?, to the water, the Eheim, the hang-on, or both filters?
<One time addition, unless you wipe out your microbial populations... as with flagrant "medicine" use>
f.  If I can't get BioSpira, what do I do, with what product?,
<None really...>
where to put it, and frequency please. And also, what do you think my timeline of things to come would be? especially ammonia & nitrite to 0?
Thanks for all your help.  I love your web site and appreciate your generosity in helping so many people...including me!
Sorry for the details and length, but I really feel over whelmed and I don't understand why I am having sooooo much problem with my water...and why now :-(
Thanks again Bob -you are very thoughtful :o)
Sincerely,
Eileen
<Bob Fenner>

Re-sent... Re: Goldfish env. dis. from ayer  2/7/07
Hello, and thank you for taking my email.
<Welcome Eileen>
I wrote you yesterday, but didn't see my email on your answer page, so am trying again.
<Mmm, I don't recall seeing this... we do respond directly to all>
  Also, I realized last night I made some errors re: the levels I quoted you, so am correcting them here. I've also added more details. Sorry for any confusion I have caused.
<No worries>
I am having severe water problems in my aquarium.
Briefly, I have: 70 gal planted, 4 inch substrate, 4 fancy goldfish (all approx 6 inches & 4-5 years old), 3 Otos (had been breeding in tank before disaster -now many died and one jumped out & died), Eheim Prof II, feed 2x per day, Compact fluorescentx2, 2x 10 inch ceramic microbubblers.
Approx 6-8 mon ago I had a sick Oranda. Used multiple things to cure but died after 2 mon. During that time aquarium subjected to, among other things, 3%salt approx 1 month.
<Yikes... the Otos/Loricariids don't "like" salts>
Some time after it all I decided to do a major clean job because I was having water issues that were not going away with multiple water changes (approx Oct 2006). I cleaned the aquarium & Eheim and made a major mistake -cleaned filter media in tap water and I scrubbed it really well :(  Well, to make an awful long story short, my tank had to re-cycle. Since then, however, I am continually struggling with Ammonia and nitrites. I have nitrates but as said, aquarium is planted and usually 5-10 mg/L..
<Oh... I did respond to this yesterday... was/is posted in the dailies, in both the freshwater and general... You in turn had written back... I believe twice... to which I responded to the first...>
My plants are also going downhill and struggle to survive -some are not. There are continually pieces of my lilies floating in the water (leaves used to be the size of my hand, now most are only 2 inches).
On Jan 24/25 my Eheim broke. To make a long story short, three 120km trips to my pet store for parts and all day to fix it. After it was fixed I had approximately 2-3 days of crystal clear water: Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0, Nitrate 5mg/L; then disaster again: Ammonia 0.1 mg/L, Nitrite 0.3 mg/L, Nitrate 5mg/L.
Friday: I did a 30% water change and results: Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0.1 mg/L, Nitrate 5mg/L.
Saturday morning: Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0.3 mg/L, Nitrate 5mg/L.
Saturday night: Ammonia 0.3 mg/L, Nitrite 0.8 mg/L -did 40% water change.
Sunday morning: Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0.1 mg/L, Nitrate 5mg/L.
Sunday night: Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0.1 mg/L, Nitrate 5mg/L.
Monday night (Feb.5): Ammonia 0.1, Nitrite 0.3 mg/L -did 50% water change.
<Yes... classical loss of nitrification capacity... you "bumped off" your beneficial microbes... through the salt use, cleaning of all>
Also the water went from crystal clear to lots of small particles flying around. Despite water changes, particles still there.
<Also indicative>
I use a python & will also take out poop (and lily leaf bits) with net if I see it. Both water changes last time had very little detritus. No dead fish or plant material. Same Monday -it's there, but not a lot.
I am at my wits end. Two of my goldfish are affected now: their tails are showing red veining.
Monday night: one has taken to lethargically sitting at bottom, alternated with, dashing in aquarium and somehow swimming on his side along the bottom, then flying up to the surface or off to the side, then frantically picking up gravel as if starving half to death. Also when looking from above, his white body looks pinkish in hue now (?red veining). He also lost one scale near his tail and I think bloated). Do you think medicated flakes is a good idea here?
<No... will not address the root cause here>
I need 0 Ammonia and 0 Nitrites and can't get it. I use Prime and Big Al's nitrifying bacteria (yellow container labeling). I tried increasing the nitrifying bacteria amount once, but this seemed to throw the aquarium into high nitrites faster.
<We had discussed this as well... Hagen's "Cycle" product is not reliable... I had and DO encourage you to seek out the only/single reliable product to use here: Marineland's "BioSpira"... along with adding another power filter (hang on) and asking the LFS for some of their "dirty" filter media to run in it and your Eheim>
I have tried: multiple water changes -still get the ammonia & nitrites coming back.
<Yes... you've read on WWM re FW cycling I take it>
I have tried using Prime to reduce the ammonia to zero and wait, but the ammonia still comes back <24hrs and the nitrites build to such a point I have to do a water change.
<... chemical treatments won't "do it" here>
My pet store said I can't have any residual salt in my substrate (which I wondered).
<Will be diluted in time with water change-outs>
I have not cleaned my Eheim so the nitrifying bacteria should easily been able to culture the media by now.
<Not with "Cycle"
What do you suggest?
<What I've written above, before>
Historically I do a 50% water change 1/wk.
Lately (>2 mon) I am doing 1 to 3 water changes per week (usually 2x) ranging from 20% to 75%, depending on ammonia & nitrite levels.
<With pre-stored water I hope... too much change here can upset your nitrifiers excessively>
Please help -I am afraid my goldfish will not survive this stress and I love them very much.
I feel if I continually do water changes I am removing my nitrifying bacteria culture.  If I don't, my fish will die from the ammonia.  I am also wondering if I even have a culture of nitrifying bacteria at this point -but how could I not?
<... please see WWM re>
All test kits, Prime & nitrifying bacteria are within expiry date (Prime & bacteria are new -Jan 07).
I don't understand why I can't get the water right.  I started keeping fish 2002, and historically, face water issues.  I do everything correctly as to what I've read. I continually monitor with test kits.  I don't know why I can't get it.  I read on your site two things that I wonder about: 1. Marineland's Bio Spira (refrigerated)
<Ahh, good!>
-I have never tried this and am not sure I can get it. If I do, I see you say to add it to the filter; but I only clean/open my Eheim approx. 2-3 times per year. Do I need to open every time I do a water change?
<No, not likely... especially if you have the ancillary outside power filter... the additional hang-on suggested... clean only one at a time/interval... You understand the reason for this?>
Right now (or should I say when things are normal) that would mean opening 1-2 per week -or do I just use the Marineland's Bio S for this current disaster and Big Al's nitrifying bacteria routinely?
<No to the BA product period>
2. Historically I over-fed my little guys -which was part of my water & algae problems.  I thought I finally got it right about a year ago but always read any little tidbit regarding amounts that I came across (hoping to have a "real" quantity/measurement defined rather than vague, suggestive amounts. I've tried much more limited amounts (I feed 2x /day), but my fish become very aggressive and bang into each other, start ripping plants, digging out any piece of you know what around & underneath the plants. I stopped this and continue to feed flakes & pellets (Omega One) to an amount where it sits a little while on the bottom but when I come back (approx. 1/2 hr) it's gone. They seem to be more relaxed if I do this than if I stand there and dish it out a little at a time. They are very close & friendly to one another if I do it this way.  In any case, where I'm heading with this is: I finally read in your page an actual gram weight per 6" fancy goldfish. Hallelujah!!!!  "20g" it said.  Off I went & weighed out my food. Well, I stopped at 17g or so...which is a huge handful, and a heaping tablespoon of flake food is only 2g.  Could you review this (?typo)
<Where is this located? The URL?>
and see if you have a better gram weight I could be feeding them (4x 6 inch fish: 2 Oranda, 1 Red Cap, 1 Black Moor).
Thanks for all your help.  I love your web site and appreciate your generosity in helping so many people...including me!
Personally I wonder if I should give up keeping fish. I have no problems with dogs, cats or canaries, so I don't know why I can't have peace & joy with my fish on a continual year-in year-out basis.  My poor fish are paying for my inability to get their water chemistry correct -and keep it there.
Thank you,
  Eileen
<You will figure out and fix this situation Eileen... just need a bit more back-up, redundant filtration, and not to upset those useful microbes... Bob Fenner

Re: water chemistry -fancy goldfish Bob F if possible please  2/7/07
Hello Bob,
Just so you know, I wasn't questioning your advice re: redundant filter, rather, I was complimenting you for figuring out the problem so quickly, yet exasperated with others for not suggesting it.  It's such an easy fix.
<Ahh, I see>
I have phoned all over for BioSpiro
<BioSpira... from Marineland... I would avail yourself of the "dirty media" as stated previously... and posted: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwestcycling.htm
and the linked files above>
and can't find it yet.  I've tried all big name stores in area plus 3 independent, and no luck.  If you know anyone selling it in my area, I'd appreciate the tip.
<... Don't know where you are...>
Otherwise, I will contact Marineland and see if somehow they can check who they sell it to around here.
<A good approach>
One person offered to bring it in, but he won't have it until end of next week at earliest.
I will buy the filter tonight.  What do you suggest for now?
<That you read... feed little or nothing... do a water change if ammonia or nitrite approach 1.0 ppm, add the old media to the new filter... READ...>
...and should I ask the guy to bring in the product even though I won't get it for 2 weeks?
<Up to you... two weeks w/o something done to ameliorate the nitrogenous poisoning will likely be too late>
Also to make things worse...and positively desperate,
Monday night my Red cap has taken to lethargically sitting at bottom, alternated with, dashing in aquarium and somehow swimming on his side along the bottom, then flying up to the surface or off to the side, then frantically picking up gravel as if starving half to death. Also when looking from above, his white body looks pinkish in hue now (?red veining). He also lost one scale near his tail and I think he's bloated). Do you think medicated flakes is a good idea here?
<No>
make daily 40% water changing till I can get BioSpira?
<See the above...>
  Please help.
Sincerely,
Eileen
<Read my friend, read. Bob Fenner>

Re: Bob Fenner if possible pls: Water chemistry - Fancy Goldfish    02/17/07
Hello Bob and/or crew,
First, let me thank you for your replies and the wealth of info on your site.  I am new to computers so "Thank you" for inserting "links" in your responses because at least I know how to click on that!
<A pleasure... and my fave "modus operandi" for making known what I think needs to...>
I'm still struggling & my fish are still struggling with me so I thought I'd give you an update (with questions) ... especially since I haven't achieved all you suggested.
A. BioSpira -As per Tetra/Marineland, this product is not available in Canada as it doesn't have clearance to cross the border yet.
<Rats!>
Temperatures are -20's & -30's *C , bad road conditions, and very far to USA border, so I can't risk the trip to get it myself in the immediate future.
Question: As per your suggestion, I asked re: dirty media and they were not willing.
<What? Look for another... oh, I see this below>
  I called another store, and they don't have Eheim. Is there any other choice?
<Any old medium... even some "gunk" vacuumed from a disease free tank will do. What is wrong with that LFS? Did you speak with someone in mgmt?>
B. I bought an Aqua Clear for 70g (actually I bought 2 but I've run into a problem so only set up one). The problem is, my tank top is quite wide Oceanic Display 70g)... too wide for the width of the Aqua Clear space between the waterfall and unit's body by approximately 1-2mm.  I tried wiggling it etc, but the plastic seems "hard/breakable" so have to wait until I can go to my fish store to look at more options.
<Mmm, yes... or if you have someone who is handy with tools... a cut across the hang-on lip can be made and an expansion (drilled and screwed, or glued, or solvented) can be fashioned of plastic, medal...>
The extra filtration does look like it is helping, but needs more.
Question1: Am I right that 2 medium size powerfilter units (e.g.: 70g) are BETTER THAN 1 larger unit (e.g.: 110g)?
<Yes... a very good idea to have multiples... and clean only one per interval...>
I thought it would clean better because my 3 intakes could be at 3 levels in the tank, plus I could then clean one unit per week at my weekly water change thus leaving each unit "dirty/in use for 3 weeks undisturbed. Your thoughts?
<This is perfect>
Question 2: In trying to find BioSpira via phone, one helpful person (who tried very hard to bring it in for me, but couldn't) actually said he thought the problem was circulation.  I described how poop sat right in front of my Eheim intake & he said I needed 2 powerheads because the poop is about 4-5 mm in diameter so it is heavy.
<Can be, should be vacuumed out once a week during water changes... no worries>
I own 1 powerhead but have never installed it because I didn't know where to install it and evidently you have to shut off the air bubblers, which I tried, and the fish showed immediate stress (approx 1/2 hr...even though I have the entire top of the aquarium water in constant "rough" movement.) He also said it would be impossible to not have bacteria by now because of all the poop & plants (albeit barely there plants at this point).
<Mmm, well... if it were only so... which obviously it is not. There are times, conditions where nitrification doesn't occur... "expediently"... or is interrupted... by medication, water changes... temperature swings... Yours is a case in point>
I am confused and there is no one in my area who has fish so I would like your comments here please since you have so much experience.
C. One of the reasons I purchased the Aqua Clear filter was because you could buy different media to put in. I bought (but haven't opened) the insert to remove Ammonia.  I wanted to ask your thoughts.
<Are very fine products... their stock media is fine>
Question 1: Is this considered masking a problem, or could it be considered my "routine" given my fish size?
<More of the latter>
Question 2: I thought I would have 3 filters going: 2x 70g Aqua (which may not be possible given they don't fit-but I would buy something else with a larger space) & the Eheim II.  My plan was to clean (i.e.: rinse out the Eheim fine filters (2) and the Aqua fine filters (1 each) in TAP water) one unit per week.  I'd like to use tap water because the filters are so yucky and since the other two would be untouched at the same time I thought this would work.  Will it?
<It will... once the media, system is "established", fully cycled>
Question3: I thought to load the Eheim with the usual media, one Aqua with foam/charcoal/bio rocks, one Aqua with foam/ammonia remover/phosphate remover. Would this be the BEST choice?
<This is fine>
D. One person at one of the stores I phoned said the red veining in my fishes' tails was the result of all my water changes so they are stressed and that 0.1 mg/L Ammonia and 0.3 mg/L nitrites with 5-10 mg/L nitrates was nothing to worry about.
<Mmm, both, all are things to be concerned re>
I thought these amounts (and their rising to 0.3A, 0.8Ni with 5-10Nates if left over 3-4 days) were the cause and that they now have a bacterial infection.
<This is so... but all likely influenced, increased with the excessive water changes>
Question 1: What is the REAL reason?
<A bit of all>
Question 2: Will they survive this if I can't get my tank to hold at 0A, 0Ni,  5-10N within the next week or two, or will they now go downhill since their immunity has been so adversely affected? Can they be CURED at this point? If so, how?
<Will likely survive... and self-cure... I would feed very little in the meanwhile... keep an eye on the ammonia, nitrite... not allow (by water changes if necessary) these to rise more than 1.0 ppm. If they approach this, NO feeding>
Currently it has been 3 days since my last water change -this morning my values were 0A, 0.1mg/L Nitrite, 5 Nitrate so I will not change the water tonight if it holds here... so this will be 3 full days.
Question 3: They said to add Aquarium salt (but not how much) for my fishes' immediate health. I am afraid to because of my issues with water quality. What do you suggest?
<I would hold off on the salt... till there is no ammonia or nitrite... otherwise... it will poison, forestall the needed bacteria...>
E. This same store's personnel (they went & asked others while I held) was shocked when I said I read on your site that serious fancy goldfish keepers who kept their fish for >20 years did 90% weekly water changes. They said "No way" to this -but they also don't own fancy goldfish.
<Well... nowadays with the change-ability of source waters... large changes can be problematical... but folks who "do" goldfish breeding, showing, do massive, even continuous water changes... With water of known quality... that they've prepared, stored...>
Please give me a link here so I can read more.
<Please... see the Indices...>
I know you said to read more, but I can't find this other than as statements made on your site.
<And the Google search tool>
As said, I would really appreciate a few links on this subject ("links" please, because it brings me right the right spot), and any other links you have on dealing with 6 inch and >5 years old fancy goldfish. When I bought these guys they were approx. 1 1/4 inches, and I am finding problems now and I'm scared from what I am reading that they will not make it to reach their true life span.
<See here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwlivestkindex.htm
scroll down to the gold bar (for Goldfish!)>
F. "F" is for finally!!!  Just one last thing, you asked where I read re: 20g of food for 6 inch FG and if it was on a "URL".
<Is the distinct location of a webpage...>
  I don't know what a URL is, but I read it on your site.  I'm not sure how to direct you to the spot where I read it. What would help me identify it to you?
<At the top, or near it... will be a tray indicating which page/URL you're "on"... tell me how many entries down...>
Thank you for your time & patience. I look forward to your responses.
Thank you,
OldieGoldee
<Be chatting, oh, and reading~! Bob Fenner>

Goldfish needs help, owner needs to read   2/4/07
Hello. I just recently purchased two red-capped Orandas (about  a month ago) and moved them into a 10 gallon tank
<Too small>
with a bubble pump, filter,  and a heater. Recently, I received two more Orandas
<... much too small>
and put them into the same  tank with the others. About a week ago, I noticed that the largest Oranda was  literally laying on the bottom of the tank for long periods of time, but  whenever disturbed by other fish or saw a person walking by, he would quickly  perk up and swim around. As of right now, he is perfectly healthy.
<Environmental...>
This seemed  to be a short-lived problem. But just recently, I noticed that my other Oranda  was looking rather bloated,
<Ditto>
and that he too was laying on the bottom of the  tank, but unlike my other Oranda, this one doesn't even move when bumped into or  when a person taps on the glass. The other three Orandas are in good health and are all eating well and are very active, but this one is not. I'm worried that if one gets sick, all the others will soon follow suit, and I don't have  a spare tank and filter to move him into. Is there anything I can  do?
<... Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/gldfshsystems.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Weird growth on my fish...Help!!!!!!!!!!! NNS   2/4/07
Hello,
<Greetings>
I have a goldfish (Ryukin). A week or 2 ago he developed slightly bulging left eye. i made sure the water was ok which it was and then treated him with MarOxy 2 for Popeye. no effect. then i tried MelaFix...and it felt like one or 2 small boils which looked water/pus filled had burst...and the swelling came down. now the back of the eye where the bulge is looks inflamed like i can see his blood vessels...and where his cheek is or the equivalent of a cheek in a fish is...it looked bumpy. this morning...the bump has gone and is replaced by a fleshy looking mass!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
i don't know what to do, or how to treat...i have no idea what it is ..it literally appeared overnight. it wasn't there yesterday and now it is this terrible looking lump.
please help!!!!!!!!!!!!!
thanks,
Janhavi.
<... No information re the system (likely an environmental issue here), nor nutrition... Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/gldfshsystems.htm
and the linked files above. And please, though you're obviously not a native English speaker/writer, learn to/use your Grammar and Spelling tools before sending correspondence. Bob Fenner>

Goldfish, trouble... env., nutr... both?  2/1/07
Hello. I'm a beginner fish caretaker. And I have a number of problems.
My fantail, Charles, is not doing too well. I got him about 3 months ago and he seemed fine up until about a week ago, when I started to notice rips in his fins.
<From?>
A day went by and his condition got worse (lethargy, floats at the top on his side)
<Env., nutr.?>
I separated him from the other fish to treat him. I gave him some Melafix, bought him some new food, and feed him peas. Now, in his hospital tank, he is looking worse. He's bloated, floating on his side, lethargic. I really want to save him, but I don't know what else to do!
My other problem is with one of my other fantails, Peanut. He acts normal, but he goes to the surface and it looks like he is gasping for air. After he started doing that, I got them an air pump, but he still does it!
Before they got sick, they were in a 10 gallon with 2 other fantails and 3 small comets (I know this was too small, I have moved the others to a much bigger tank since then).
<Good...>
I would make a partial water change every week and feed them once a day.
<With?>
I had a 10-30 (?) gallon filter in it and an air pump.
Please help.
<Not enough information proffered... But you can/will find your answer by reading here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/gldfshsystems.htm
and the linked files above... Could easily be water quality, lack of filtration, poor nutrition at root here. Bob Fenner>

Re: Black Moor Follow-up III
Quick update - Piggy is doing great!  It took a couple of weeks, but the warts are gone.  The warts ranged in size from 2mm to 4mm - I didn't do a thing they cleared up on their own.
Piggy is waiting to move into a 36 gallon tank which I think will make him a much happier fish.
Thanks for your help and advice - much appreciated.
Tammy
<Ah, outstanding. Congratulations on your success, and thank you for this update. BobF>

Question regarding my son's goldfish... env. dis., reading   1/31/07
I recently purchased two black moor goldfish for my son. One of the fish is smaller and swimming around just fine. The larger fish seems to get bigger by the day (bloating)
<Yikes... not good>
I purchased the fish Saturday evening and by Sunday evening, it was nose down and seemed to me, to be trying to push the rocks. The other black moor that I have was lying down next to it. Now the sick fish is now hiding under the filter and when I move the filter he floats up to the top of the tank and then swims back under the filter. The fish is swimming sideways and upside down. What should I do?
<Check your water quality... This all reads like a/the "classical" lack of biological filtration (nitrogenous waste poisoning) of an un-established, too-small goldfish system. Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/gldfshsystems.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
Michele A. Cotton

Bruised goldfish   1/30/07
I have a 110 gallon tank with 9 large goldfish.  They were feeder goldfish that I have had for several years.  During the warm months they live outside in a 110 gallon pond and come to an indoor tank from Sept until May/June.
<Very nice>
  About a week ago one of the goldfish began to have big black splotches all over his sides and back... he looked like he was black and blue.  He seemed to be eating normally and was swimming normal.  Today he was lying at the bottom of the tank and has now died.
I have been unable to find a clue as to the cause of his problem and am now concerned about the other fish in the tank... they appear okay at this time.  All Chemicals etc are okay according to tests.  Can you help?
Jackie
<Well... the one fish could be genetically pre-disposed to this color change, but a bit more likely... this could be bruising caused by a meeting up with a predator (if this were outdoors...) or a bout with spawning (if this were the warmer months), more likely here running into hard objects... The fact that the other fish of this same species don't show such signs indicates that this is not likely either resultant from an environmental insult or pathogen... I would likely not treat the one fish or the others, but simply keep a close eye on all for now. Bob Fenner>

Fantail goldfish, sick?    1/30/07
One of my fantails has developed what looks like a pimple on his head.  It is very white which is in stark contrast to his vibrate gold & black coloring.  Should I quarantine him?
  Will it go away with out treatment.  Thanks for the help.  PS I love this web site!
  Carmel
<If it were me, and there was only this one "pimple", I'd ignore it for now... do my requisite regular water testing, changing, perhaps add vitamins to the goldfish's foods... and hope for a spontaneous "cure"... This might well be simply a "mucus reaction" site... to the fish bumping into something... And one should always be mindful of the many downsides potentially to "treatments"... poisoning outright to cessation of biological filtration... I would hold off on moving or adding chemicals here. Bob Fenner>

Problems With My Ich Medication 1/29/07
Hi there, <Hi> I often use your site to answer any questions I have regarding goldfish care. <Good.>  I find there are lots of Q and A's about treating ich, but I haven't found any that specifically say how much medicine, how far apart the doses should be and how much and often the water changes should be during the treatment. <Follow the manufacturers instructions.> I have had goldfish get ich 3 times and every time I followed the instructions I have found on the back of the medicine bottle and/or your site as best as I can and most of the goldfish seem to end up dying as result of the medication. <Some medications are very toxic.>  After a couple days of very labored respiration.  I was hoping you could help me with treating ich outbreaks with our fancy goldfish in the future if I let you know what I have unsuccessfully done in the past and what I am doing with the current outbreak I am dealing with... <Will try.>
We use a medicine called NOX-ICH in which the active ingredients read:  sodium chloride, malachite green - 1%. <Malachite Green is pretty nasty stuff, would not recommend using it or really keeping it in a household with children.  It’s just that bad in my opinion.  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/malachitegreen.htm >  On the back of the bottle it says to add one drop per gallon for 3 consecutive days.  We removed the filters and medicated as instructed and all my gold fish developed breathing problems and died.  
The 2nd time I had a problem I added the 1 drop/gallon, removed the filters, waited 2 days, remedicated again and all the fish developed breathing problems so I did a 50% water change to reduce the amount of medicine but the fish still died.
With the current outbreak in our 10 gallon quarantine tank that we have set up for 4 new goldfish we were hoping to add to our 60 gallon tank I removed all but the sponge filter, added the 1 drop per gallon, waited 2 days and did a 50% water change and remedicated.  The visible signs of ich are gone but of the 4 goldfish in the tank 2 are sluggish still but seem like they will be ok - still eating.  The other 2 goldfish I had  remove to a separate tank with no medicine and a lower water level so they could get to the surface easier to breath since they were having trouble breathing.  After 24 hours in the separate tanks they are not doing any better.  I have seen this behavior enough that I am pretty sure that these 2 fish aren't going to make it.  I would really like to find a way to treat the  ich in the future with out killing my fish.
I would really appreciate a step by step guide to treating my next outbreak should there be one.
Can I use this same medicine (NOX-ICH)? <Would probably switch to something else.>  How much and how often with the medication and how much and how often with the water changes?  Should I still feed the fish during treatment? <Sparingly> Should the fish be kept in the dark? <Not necessary.>
Thanks so much for your time,
Matt
<Give this a read, would try salt or copper treatments over what you are currently using.  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwich.htm >
<Chris>

I think I am killing my goldfish   1/27/07
Hi there,
<<Hi, Rosie. Tom>>
You have a great site and I have been learning a lot!
<<Thank you and we’re glad you’ve found the site informative.>>
I have a problem with my fish - I have (2) 2" goldfish in a 3 gallon tank with an undergravel filtration system and an air pump with carbon filter.
<<Too small a tank by many, many times I’m afraid, Rosie. Sit down if you feel the need but your Goldfish should be in a 30-gallon tank, minimally. (No, I’m not making that up and I don’t sell aquariums on the side. :) )>>
There are 2 live plants in the tank, and I have had it up and running for just short of a year with no problems.
<<Problems related to the small environment would be just a matter of time if they haven’t already started. Let’s continue and see what we can do.>>
Recently the smaller of my two fish started looking as though it was missing a few scales although the other one looked fine, so I was advised to put some tonic (a blue liquid) into the tank and let it sit for a week to fix what the pet shop thought was ick but I didn't think so.
<<The “blue liquid” is methylene blue and sometimes used as a treatment for Ich. Plays havoc on the biological filter and doesn’t do plants a bit of good, either.>>
So I did a 100% water change to get rid of the blueness, and then refilled, and treated the water with conditioner and some cycle. <<Cycle is totally ineffective in repairing the bio-filter, Rosie. BIO-Spira from Marineland is what we, unanimously, recommend on our site for repopulating the lost beneficial bacteria.>>
I did a few 25% water changes over the next few days to get rid of the blueness which was leaking out into the water and I thought this was what was making my fish spit up their food. Then yesterday I added  some tonic salt (half a tablespoon).
<<Regular replacement of the carbon media would be more effective in removing the medication. I like the fact that you added the salt to the tank but there’s too many water changes going on in too short a span of time. Understandable, given your concerns here but, I mention this so you’ll be aware. I’ll try to sum much of this up as we go on.>>
Then around 3 hours later I noticed that the fish were lying at the bottom of the tank under a rock, so I thought I had poisoned them and I did a 50% water change.
<<The methylene blue was not likely responsible for “poisoning” your fish directly. Used as prescribed, it can be effective without harming your pets. It’s the “side effects” to the tank regarding other beneficial life that’s the problem.>>
Since yesterday morning I have seen them sitting on the bottom 4 times, however when I wave at them they seem to wake up for a couple of hours but both their top fins are drooping and they don't look very happy.
<<I agree with you. I can only imagine how unhappy they are right now.>>
I know now that I have probably half killed them with stress, but it was out of love and over-eagerness to fix the initial problem.
<<The recommendation you got from the pet store wasn’t so much “wrong” as it was “presumptuous” based on what you’ve shared with me thus far. The scale loss on the one Goldfish was “assumed” to be a result of flashing/scratching from an Ich infestation without considering other possibilities such as an internal bacterial infection or a swim bladder disorder, as examples. Now, time has been lost to an ineffective treatment as well as a wealth of other problems that resulted from the use of this particular medication. Now, we’ve got our hands full.>>
I am not sure what to do now - I don't want to touch the water again in case it finishes them off, but I also don't know whether the loss of scales in my small fish needs some sort of treatment - the blue tonic didn't help. Any advice you could offer me would be much appreciated!
<<If you’re up for this, let’s get started. Find a store that carries the BIO-Spira I mentioned earlier. Also, get replacement carbon for your filter. If you don’t have a water test kit, take a sample in to the store in a clean container to have your water tested. (All but guaranteed that the parameters are out of whack.) Get the BIO-Spira into the tank as quickly as possible to “jump start” your bio-colonies and get rid of any toxic ammonia and/or nitrites present. Replace the carbon as well. This must be your first step. Continue the use of the aquarium salt to stave off any potential onset of a fungal infection to your Goldfish with the missing scales. Additionally, the salt will assist in relieving their stress. Also, check the fish for signs of “bloating”. This could be as simple as a case of constipation for all we know right now. In the meantime, hold off on feeding the fish for a couple of days. Provided we’ve caught this situation in time, your fish should start behaving more normally in a day or so. (Keep an eye on your plants, by the way. If they show the least signs of dying, pull them out so that any absorbed organics aren’t released back into the tank. We sure don’t need that!) As to feeding, shelled, raw peas are an excellent laxative and will help purge their digestive systems. A green, leafy vegetable such as spinach is also a good food for them at this time. You can even feed them brine shrimp to change up their diets a little. Now, if we’re lucky, in a short time we’ll have a handle on what’s going on with these guys. Sounds like a lot to deal with right now, Rosie, but it’s all pretty straightforward stuff. Truth be told, the real work will be getting the tank squared away again. After that, it’s really a matter of waiting and observing. My primary concern is getting the water conditions as optimal as possible and reducing a handful of problems down to one or, better yet, none.>>
Rosie
<<Don’t hesitate to get back to us, me preferably, if there are other issues you want some help with. Good luck. Tom>>

Pregnant or sick Goldfish PLEASE HELP   1/27/07
    <<Hello, Jennifer. Tom with you.>>
I don't know the difference between all the gold fish that I have. All I know is that I have a fish and have had it for over a year now.  I have watched it grow along with my other ones and he or she is now having a problem.
<<Sorry to hear this. Perhaps I can help.>>
In the last week she or he (I will refer to it as she) has become very swollen on her left side.  She is still eating regularly.  She has began to lose some of the scales on the side that she is swollen on.  
<<Quite likely swim bladder disorder. By way of explanation, ‘Dropsy’ would manifest itself by swelling with scales protruding over the entire fish. Egg impaction would show protruding scales in the belly area only.>>
I watch my fish every night for about ten minutes before I go to bed and this evening she is beginning to act as if she is tired.  
<<I don’t doubt this at all.>>
She is staying in the corner of the tank by herself and she slowly sinks to the bottom of the tank and then seems to fight to get back to the top.  
<<Another significant symptom…>>
She is only using her two front fins to swim and none of the others except when she flies to the top and starts her slow drift and swim back to the middle mostly and then to the bottom of the tank.  She also has some fringe-like tail fins and her bottom two fins look like they may be getting picked at by other fish.  
<<An unfortunate addendum when a fish is ill. Natural to them. Not to us.>>
Other than that she looks good on her other side and all of her other fins look to be in great shape......  Is she pregnant or sick?
<<Sick.>>
What should I do? I'm very worried about her.  
<<Don’t feed the fish, any of them, for several days. (The others won’t be happy but they’ll get over it. My advice but you get the dirty looks from the fish. Just one of the perks of my job! :) ) When you do feed again, feed thawed, or raw, shelled peas. With a small bit of luck, your sick Goldie will already be on the mend. The peas will offer an extra “boost” to rid her of any intestinal compaction. Won’t hurt the others either. After this, feed all of your fish sparingly and supplement with green vegetables like spinach, zucchini or even cucumber (flick off the seeds). Please, research this article on our site as well: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/gldfshmalnut.htm
Thank you if you are able to help.
<<Hopefully, this will get your Goldfish back to normal. If the change of diet doesn’t seem to do the trick or, if there are other developments, do get back to us. We’ll be here. Good luck to you. Tom>>

Serial goldfish killer- Please help!  1/26/07
Hey,
I'm writing from australia, I'm a 16 year old girl on school holidays so I apologize if my grammar isn't up to scratch right now.
<So far... except capitalizing Australia!>
I have searched your site well, and I hope I haven't gone straight past the answer to my question. I have a 18 inch tank, with a filter. (Its a black thing and has bubbles coming out of it and inside is a
sponge so I hope I have the suitable thing for my tank.) I have two fantail goldfish, probably only 1& 1/2 inches each. I've had bad luck with goldfish in bowls, going through five already. (I should be locked up, I know.)
<Or perhaps reincarnated...>
Back to my question, my tank was about 30-40cm deep in water, not including the depth of my gravel, and my two fish I never saw at the top breathing like I had my previous fish. I saw on occasion they
would swim 3/4 of the way up to the top and then sort of give up and float back down again. I began to panic that maybe it was to far for them to swim,
<Mmm, no>
so I removed some of the water. They now have a water depth of about 20-25 cm. I was looking for some re assurance that I have done the right thing. Now I see them go up to the top every so often, but they still look a bit awkward when doing so.
<Environmental... likely too little oxygen, too much CO2, nitrogenous waste accumulation... You have too little circulation, aeration, and/or biological filtration>
Also, occasionally they will swim quite fast like something is chasing them. Is something wrong? I thought maybe they just got caught up in the bubbles of the filter.
Thank you so much for your time, with all the conflicting information I have found in pet shops, I really need to hear from a expert.
I hope my fish are still alive tomorrow I would hate to be the reason to shorten their life span.
I really hope to hear from you!
Thank you again, Julia.
<Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/gldfshsystems.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Sick Black Moor: lots of problems, need to check water quality...   1/25/07
Hi, I bought a black moor goldfish from a local PetSmart a few months ago (I also bought a whisper 5-10 gal filter, cartridges, a ten gallon tank, aquarium rocks and some water conditioner.)
<All good things to have, presuming the black moor you mention lives alone. Also, a quality test kit would be a great investment - Aquarium Pharmaceuticals makes a good one that includes ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and pH, for a reasonable price...>
Everything has been going great until I got home from school today. When I checked on him, he seemed to have a bunch of gray patches on his body. The patches resembled bruises, and it looked like he had been roughed up by the local gang.
<Does he live with other fish, or is this just a figure of speech?  First thing to do is check environmental conditions - what are the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels? How often do you change the water in this tank, in what quantity, and when was the last time you did this?>
I fed him a little bit, and he ate the food like normal, and after a few hours some of the gray spots seem to have disappeared.
<Good sign that he's eating.  Strange that his coloration would change in such a short time, though>
However, I also observed him going through something that can only be described as "white, stringy, fish diarrhea."
<Classic sign of an internal infection.>
I didn't really think much of it until I read about fungal (or was it bacterial?) infections on your website's problem pages.
<Likely an internal bacterial infection. I'd recommend a medicated flake food, something containing Oxytetracycline.  I buy my medicated fish flakes from Luis at Florida Guppies Plus:  http://flguppiesplus.safeshopper.com/255/cat255.htm?635
I started to get worried, as I came home today and the fish looked like he got beat up and now he has a fungal infection (his feces is normally a light brown colour, by the way.)
<I don't think the fish has a fungal infection, based on what you tell me.  First off, you need to check the water parameters. Ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, as mentioned above.  Make sure there aren't toxins in the water.  Also, as mentioned above, the white stringy feces could indicate an internal bacterial infection - try medicated food.  Third, in general, make sure you are feeing your goldfish a quality, varied diet, including quality dry flakes/pellets, and frozen, then thawed peas a couple of times per week (to ensure the fish doesn't become constipated).  Fourth, since I'm not sure if the fish has tankmates or not, if it's the latter, you should isolate this fish into a hospital tank - both for this fish's health and safety, as well as the others.  These are the starting points I give you...>
I also noticed that the right side of his body appeared to be pushed out or bloated. The left side was fine, but the right side looked like someone had pushed a bump from the middle of his tummy to the back of it. I'm not sure if he was always like that or if it just developed. I remember him always looking a bit contorted, though.
<This could be constipation - try the pea feedings.>
Also, his top fin (the one on his back) seems to be bent at the tip. It looks like he has no control over a piece of it, it's just flapping around like a piece of dead fin. Again, I'm not sure if he was always like this or not.
<It sounds like there are a lot of issues going on at once, which leads me back to environmental issues - definitely test the water ASAP. I'd suggest a 50% water change right off the bat.>
Anyway, thanks for your help. I'm not sure if you guys email me back or just post your response on the website...
<both>
...but if you post it on the website, could
you email me a link to the solution, as I wouldn't know where to look.
<Here's where the daily FAQs are posted... http://www.wetwebmedia.com/daily_faqs3.htm , but as mentioned above, you will receive an e-mail response, too...>
Thanks,
Connor
<You're welcome. Jorie>
I apologize. I forgot to mention that my fish eats TopFin Goldfish Flakes for red fish (which might explain why the bottom of his body has turned orange.)
<Young goldfish often "mature" by developing different colors...this is not unusual, and doesn't concern me.  I don't think it's the food causing this, though!>
I hold the food underwater so that they sink before he eats them. However, he gets eager and swims to the top, gulping for the flakes. He seems to swallow a lot of air this way.
<This is a common goldfish problem.  Try feeding the peas once or twice per week.  Also, perhaps consider a goldfish pellet, as opposed to a flake, as the pellets tend to sink quicker, reducing the change of "air-swallowing".>
I have also never checked for ammonia/pH levels, I don't have any tests.
<That's not good.  I found this deal a while ago at Amazon.com - good price, good product.  http://www.amazon.com/Aquarium-Pharmaceuticals-Freshwater-Master-Test/dp/B000255NCI/sr=8-1/qid=1169780331/ref=sr_1_1/002-3618028-9708064?ie=UTF8&s=home-garden .  You NEED to be testing the water, and doing regular water changes.>
There are no objects in the tank (besides stones, and I am planning on buying some plants.)
<Definitely put some decor in the tank...even PVC.  All fish need places to hide and feel safe in/by.>
Thanks again.
<You're welcome.  Good luck, Jorie>

Re: Sick Black Moor: lots of problems, need to check water quality...PART 2    2/2/07
Thanks for the quick reply Jorie.
<You're welcome, Connor.>
I will try to go in and buy him some plants and some tests during the week, but I haven't had much time. On Saturday, I noticed that Gulp had some bubbles (air bubbles?) stuck to his "chin," if I can call it that. They eventually went away.
<Clear bubbles? White bubbles? How long did you notice these "bubbles"?>
I also noticed later that the grey spots had reappeared, followed by two small white dots that looked like ich, but those also disappeared.
<Well, ich is a parasite, and goes through various lifecycle stages - when they are attached to the fish like little grains of salt they are feeding; after a few days, they do fall off the fish and lay eggs in the gravel...then the cycle continues. This is why ich can be so difficult to get rid of entirely...>
Now, he has what looks like an air bubble, but is much clearer and not popping, stuck to a string of what looks like feces, dangling above him. He doesn't seem to enjoy having it stuck to his tail, and is shaking around.  Any idea of what these 'bubbles' are?
<I really can't imagine what these are, besides some sort of parasite. See if you can match what's going on with your goldfish with a picture on the 'net : try here for a comprehensive list of goldfish diseases and issues : http://www.goldfishinfo.com/identify.htm >
Also, I tried feeding him the peas, he took after one of them, but were too big to swallow. So the next day I gave him peas in smaller sizes, but he didn't go after them! I'll keep trying, but should I take the uneaten peas out of the tank?
<Absolutely - don't leave any uneaten food lying about the tank.  You can try soaking the smaller-size peas in a drop or two or pure garlic extract, to stimulate your fish's interest.  If he won't take it, then try varying his diet with quality pellets and flakes.  And, of course, don't overfeed - that is one of the quickest way to cause constipation.>
I can't change his water right now because my water line is frozen, but I'll be sure to change it once it's back online.
<If you have excess food lying around the tank, I'd be willing to bet that the ammonia and/or nitrite and/or nitrate levels are beyond the safe levels.  Do you have a local fish store that sells purified water (ask for reverse osmosis or de-ionized water; many stores sell it in 5 gal. jugs). When was the last time you changed the water in this tank?>
Thanks again,
Connor.
<You never told me how big Gulp's tank is, whether it was filtered, what other fish you have, etc.  Without the info. I previously requested, I really can't do much besides make educated guesses as to what's going on - and right now, I believe you have environmental problems, coupled with potential parasites.  You've absolutely got to invest in a quality liquid test kit, and you've got to start reading up on fish care - here's a great place to start: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/gldfshsystems.htm and
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/gldfshdisease.htm
Best regards, Jorie>