|
| FAQs on pH, Alkalinity, Acidity: Products
Related Articles: pH, alkalinity,
In praise
of hard water; How hard, alkaline water can be a blessing in disguise by
Neale Monks, Treating
Tap Water,
A practical approach to freshwater aquarium water
chemistry by Neale Monks,
The Soft Water Aquarium: Risks and Benefits
by Neale Monks,
Freshwater Maintenance,
Treating Tap water for Aquarium Use,
Related FAQs: pH, Alkalinity,
Acidity 1,
pH, Alkalinity, Acidity 2,
pH, Alkalinity 3,
pH, Alkalinity 4
& FAQs on: FW pH/Alkalinity Science,
pH/Alkalinity Measure,
pH/Alkalinity Adjustment,
pH/Alkalinity Anomalies/Fixing,
& Water Hardness,
Freshwater Aquarium Water Quality,
Treating Tap Water for Aquarium Use,
Freshwater Algae Control,
Algae Control, Foods, Feeding, Aquatic
Nutrition,
Disease,
|
For some fishes... pH, alkalinity is important to
measure, perhaps adjust... particularly if reproducing |
Water conditioner claims to boost Alkalinity. (RMF?)
5/6/09
First I would like to say, You guys and gals provide a service that is
beyond any estimated value, and I literally spend hours reading from
this information. I forbid any of you, from passing from this earth
before me!
<Thanks for this kind (if rather bizarre) compliment!>
Though I have searched through the many posts and replies, I have yet to
find an answer to my concern. Forgive me if it is otherwise.
<Fire away.>
My question is.. In your view, and without mentioning a specific brand
,If one had an aquarium ,and the water therein was moderately hard,
would the use of a dechlorinator that claims to boost alkalinity in your
view,, be detrimental to the fish (ie) Discus, and rams.
<It would likely have trivial impact either way. Unless the bottle
contained a really concentrated carbonate or bicarbonate solution --
which it wouldn't -- it would be so diluted as to be of negligible
value. Take a look at how much cichlid salt mix you need to make hard
water for Malawi cichlids: a tablespoon of Epsom salt, and a teaspoon
each of marine salt mix and baking soda, per 5 gallons of water. So a
few drops of water conditioner...? Gimme a break... It's more marketing
than anything else, I'd warrant. Possibly it contains some carbonate in
the recipe, and the Marketing Department decided to flaunt this as some
kind of virtue or special feature. Of course, you can always test the
stuff and see: measure KH before and after adding it, and see what
happens. Discus are fairly unfussy about carbonate hardness, at least in
the case of tank-bred Discus; Rams are a bit more delicate, as you
probably know, and I'm glad you're keeping them with Discus in a system
optimised to these fussy Dwarf Cichlids. But as a one-off purchase, I
doubt using a small bottle for a couple of months would put even Rams at
risk.>
The normal water conditioner I use does not make such a claim but the
chain stores, and fish stores around my neck of the woods do not carry
it and I must order online. The product I am questioning which is
readily available, addresses ammonia, chlorine ,and chloramines as well
as heavy metals. Claims not to affect the ph, and boosts Alkalinity.
<I'd go for this if I had the option, but honestly, I doubt it would
make much difference.>
As I am barely able to keep the Discus and rams with the tapwater I
have, I am doubting the wisdom of switching to this particular product.
<Fair point; and in this case, tank-bred Discus and farmed Bolivian Rams
(M. altispinosus) would likely be the best bet, since both thrive in
moderately hard water.>
Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
Lee
<Cheers, Neale.>
<<Mmm, not alkalinity, but apparent pH may be shifted, albeit
temporarily by such chemical dechloraminators... Don't know how much
I/we want to belabor or discuss re this possibility... but I do
completely agree with Neale's assessment... Chemically changing ammonia
presence to un-ionized will appear to change alkalinity perhaps... but
in reality, this is only a temporary appearance. BobF>>
Low pH 11/8/07
Hi,
I am having a problem raising my pH. It stays at a 6.0. The alkalinity is at 40
and the hardness is at 300. I tried the pH increase but it didn't help and am
trying the proper pH 7.0, but read that it is bad for plants. I have several
bamboo, a short round leaf plant that I don't know what it is and an onion bulb
shaped plant. The tank has an assortment of community fish. What can I do to fix
my pH and will the treatment kill the plants?
Thanks so much!
Julie
<Julie, adding chemicals like "pH Up" to raise pH is generally pointless. Those
chemicals are really buffers. That is, they are designed to stabilise the pH at
a certain point once you've already brought it up (or down) to that pH level. So
if you have a Lake Malawi aquarium with lots of nice hard water, adding a "pH
Up" product will make sure the pH stays at the 8.0 value Malawi cichlids like so
well. But if your aquarium is way off base, these buffering potions will be
overwhelmed. In this case, you need to sit back and look at what's going on. You
aquarium has a low carbonate hardness. This means that the pH easily falls
towards the acid end of the pH scale. The way to remedy this is to add carbonate
hardness. There are multiple ways to do this, but the simplest is to make a
mixture of equal parts bicarbonate of soda, Epsom salt and marine salt mix. Add
a teaspoon to each bucket of water, and stir well. Test the carbonate hardness
and pH of the water. It should be much higher. If it's too high, repeat using
less of the mixture; if it's too low, repeat using more. What you want is
something around 100-200 mg calcium carbonate (6-12 degrees dH, 5-10 degrees
KH). This water should have a pH around 7. It will be perfect for a wide range
of community tropicals, with the exception perhaps of livebearers, which like
water that is more hard and has a higher pH. Tetras, barbs, Gouramis etc will
all thrive under such conditions, and the biological filter and plants will also
do their best. One thing: make these remedial actions slowly, changing no more
than 25% of the water per day. While aiming for neutral pH, moderate hard water
is ideal for the community tank, rapid changes in water chemistry can be lethal
to fish. As for your plants, the "onion" is probably Crinum sp., perhaps Crinum
thaianum, a lovely aquarium plant. Bamboo doesn't normally survive in aquaria,
especially when kept submerged. It might survive allowed to grow out above the
tank, but that's not really practical. Do be aware that many aquarium shops sell
non-aquatic plants to unsuspecting fishkeepers. It's a sad state of affairs
really. You need to know what plants you want, and THEN go shopping, and not go
shopping and come back with a bunch of mystery plants. Good luck, Neale>
Help!! Ph Crash??
01/13/2008
Hello WWM crew,
<Hello,>
This might be repetitive, but as always, got to congratulate and admire the
services you people do. If this question once again gets to Neale, I would like
to thank him very much for all the past help he has given me. Anyhow, I have a
very weird situation on my hands and hope that you could help.
<Weird away...>
I currently have a 170 and 55 gallon freshwater tank that I do a 50% water
change weekly with aged tap water (both tanks has been up for approximately one
year). As of last week, my PH value is at 7.6 for both my tanks (common stable).
As of today, I checked my water parameters and found that the PH for my 170
gallon tank is at 6.4!!!
<OK, that's a big swing and definitely not good. Not fatal, but not good. Does
suggest a lack of carbonate hardness, which is at least relatively easy to
rectify.>
I have two test kit that I verify with (API liquid test kit and Mardel quick
dips). This have never happened to me before. The only thing that I have done
differently since the last water change was change my brand of dechlorinator,
from Prime to Amquel+ and NovAqua+ due to the great reviews that they have
gotten.
<If one dechlorinator removes ammonia from the tap water but the other doesn't,
then the ammonia can result in a higher-than-expected pH reading. But a quick
check suggests that both Amquel and Prime remove ammonia. Not sure NovAqua
does.>
The tank does have a large piece of driftwood that has been in it for about one
year now.
<Bogwood will lower the pH by producing acids that neutralise carbonate
hardness. That said, a moderate amount of aged bogwood shouldn't have a huge
effect except in very soft water aquaria.>
I can't figure out what could be shifting the Ph so much. Could the new
dechlorinator be affecting my readings?
<Can't see why.>
This also seems invalid due to the 55 gallon tank reading normal as always. The
170 is currently equipped with three 405 Fluval canisters, and a Vortech MP40
powerhead, which apparently by itself pushes 3000gph.
I think I do have ample circulation. Total hardness for the tank reads
approximately 120ppm and total alkalinity at 0ppm.
<Ah, here's at least one issue. Alkalinity is essential to any aquarium. Total
hardness itself is of secondary importance, and is mostly about how fish
osmoregulate. Carbonate hardness (measured in degrees KH) is far more important,
as it tells you how well an aquarium prevents pH changes. As things stand now,
if you have zero alkalinity, which would suggest zero carbonate hardness as
well, your aquarium has next to no ability to resist pH changes. This is because
the other minerals in the water (the ones making total hardness) don't combine
with acids. All they do is float about in the water.>
Very awkward. Tank is currently stocked with one L25 Scarlet Pleco at 10" and
one 6" Flowerhorn cichlid.
Ammonia at 0, Nitrite at 0, and Nitrate at 30ppm. I have not seen any adverse
affect on the fishes as of yet. I plan on setting another batch of tap water
overnight tomorrow with dechlorinator and perform a change on Sunday.
Its early Saturday morning right now. Any ideas?
<Raising the carbonate hardness is essential for Flowerhorn cichlids, given
their Central American ancestry. I'd suggest making up a batch of Malawi Salts,
and adding these at a 25% to 100% dosage until you get the right set of pH and
carbonate hardness (i.e., KH, not total hardness) values for your needs. You can
buy these salts from stores, or you can make your own. Here's one handy-dandy
recipe for Rift Valley salt mix:
Per 5 gallons/20 litres
* 1 teaspoon baking soda (sodium bicarbonate)
* 1 tablespoon Epsom salt (magnesium sulfate)
* 1 teaspoon marine salt mix (sodium chloride + trace elements)
Mix well, dissolve into the bucket of water, and then add to the aquarium. Don't
do huge changes at once, but do water changes of 25% per day until the tank is
where you want it in terms of pH and carbonate hardness. I'd recommend at least
7 degrees KH, and ideally 10+ degrees KH, for most Central American cichlids.
You should find this prevents pH changes completely.>
Also, is it possible for water quality to remain cloudy due to insufficient
surface area for the bio load to attach to and stabilize and remain
free-floating? I really doubt that I am overfeeding since I feed usually once a
day and make sure all food is consumed. Right after a major water change, water
would be crystal clear for a day or two and would get cloudy again. It has been
like this ever since I started. No problem of this on my 55er.
<Curious. But no two tanks are the same.>
Lastly, any opinions on Prime vs. Amquel+/NovAqua+?
<None. Never used either.>
My only concern is the
concentration levels. Prime seems to be so much more concentrated, at 5 mL per
50 gallons of water. While, Kordon's product suggested dosage level is at 5 mL
per 10 gallons. Any thoughts on either product?
<Nope. All dechlorinators do the job, so I tend to buy whatever is on sale! This
sort of thing may matter more for fancy-pants marines, but freshwater fish
generally don't care so long as the chlorine is removed.>
Ok, that's all for now. All help is greatly appreciated. Thank you so much and
be safe. Andy
<Or as we say in England: "Be good, or if you can't be good, be careful."
cheers, Neale.>
Re: pH problems – 10/10/08
Thanks Neale that was very helpful. Now let me just bother you with one more
question. Do you think I can just place the crushed coral in a fine mesh bag and
just lay it on top of my substrate and putting an airstone next to
it instead of using a box filter?
<Nope, won't work. Filtration -- whether chemical, biological or mechanical --
relies on moving water being moved past the media. This is why floating a sponge
in a tank doesn't turn it into filter -- the water has to be pumped through the
sponge. Moreover, once the chemical media gets covered with algae, bacteria and
silt, it becomes isolated from the water, and so stops working. You need to be
able to clean the media every few weeks under a hot tap to wash away this stuff.
Putting the crushed coral in a filter -- whatever type of filter -- is the only
way this system works reliably. Notions based on adding coral sand in the gravel
or putting tufa rock in the tank won't work for the same reasons. Without a flow
of water and regular cleaning, any chemical buffering offered initially will
fade away in a few weeks.>
Or do you think this could just trap a lot of waste and become a hazard to the
aquarium?
<Indeed.>
Your help is much appreciated.
<Cheers, Neale.>
Coral Chips use in FW for
Alk. 8/23/07
Hi Crew / Mich,
<Alan, Bob with you this time>
Will coral chips helps to buffer up in my fresh water aquarium? I heard a lot of
hobbyists are doing that to maintain the neutral Ph, does it help or is it a
myth? Thks. in advance.
Cheers.
Alan
<These sources of calcium carbonate do/will indeed provide alkalinity, reserve.
Bob Fenner>
Re: Coral Chips use in FW for
Alk. 8/24/07
Dear Crew,
<Alan>
Thks. for the prompt reply. Further to my questions on coral chips, what is the
amount to be used in terms of weight?
<Best to experiment here... try a few ounces... in a net-like bag (perhaps a
Dacron one sold for this purpose in the pet-fish interest), rinsed (to remove
dust) and placed in your circulation/filter flow path... test the water every
few days... for pH, alkalinity>
Will over usage of coral chips caused Ph readings to go beyond 8?
<Mmm, doubtful... not "that" soluble in most freshwaters...>
Thks. in advance.
Alan
<Welcome. BobF>
Re: Coral Chips 8/27/08
Dear Crew,
Hope I'm not a nuisance to you guys. I have one last questions. If my pH reads
6, am I right to say that the coral chips are more soluble?
<They will be more soluble in lower pH water, yes. BobF>
Thks. in advance.
Alan
Crushed coral to pH buffer a FW system
Hello guys,
<Jon-Jon>
Here is my set-up:
8 inch Arowana, 125 gallon fish tank, 2 emperor 400, 1 Eheim canister 2028, and
two 250 watt titanium heater set at 82 degrees Fahrenheit.
I do water change (25%) twice a week, and uses Amquel plus and Novaqua.
I am concerned about my PH since it is low :(
here are my test results:
water in tank's PH = 5
tap water = 7
GH and KH for both tank water and tap water = 3...and states that I have soft
water
<Yes... would very likely benefit from the addition of something in the way of a
buffer>
with these tests, it tells me that I have soft water (tap) ....and it decreases
once it is mixed with my tank water (PH becomes 5).
I just bought 15 pounds of crushed corals. I used 2 nylon bags and each bag is
around 3 pounds. So the total in my tank right now is approximately 6 lbs.
My plan is to just continue to do 20% water change twice a week....and hoping
that w/ my 6lbs of crushed corals and my tap water (7 PH)...will eventually
bring up the PH of my tank water...w/o having any drastic change in ph.
questions:
1.) 6 lbs of crushed coral is enough?
<You'll soon find out... this amount should have a measurable effect>
2.) how many lbs of crushed corals do I need to slowly increase the PH of my
tank...w/ twice a week water change (20%)?
<Not able to state very accurately w/o knowing the solubility of your given
coral substrate (varies) or its placement near circulation... but I suspect that
this change will bring the pH somewhere closer to six for a few months... then
when the more easily soluble parts of the coral are gone, slip back to the
fives>
3.) how will I avoid big fluctuations of PH while I am trying to increase it?
<The best route is to pre-mix your change water (in a designated bucket,
trashcan) and add buffering material... like the crushed coral or if it were my
choice, sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) with a recirculating pump/powerhead and
a heater... for a week or so... and test for its pH and possibly alkalinity
before using>
4.) how will I avoid crushed corals to spike the PH?
<It won't... it isn't "that soluble" or that "strong" or rapid an alkalizing
substance>
5.) Once I reach my desired PH (6.5-7).....how will I be able to maintain
it? Can I remove the crushed corals? As much as possible, I want to have a
bare bottom tank.
<Mmm, you will find a "happy medium" in the amount of alkaline buffer/capacity
you're adding, manipulating. You will need to leave the coral in place,
periodically replenish it to maintain an elevated pH>
6.) do you have any recommendations on how I can safely maintain the desired PH
w/o having any crushed corals?
<Yes... as mentioned above, by pre-treating, storing your new water>
7.) any recommendations on how I can safely increase my PH w/o a drastic change?
<The above will do it... by adding enough (you will need to experiment, but a
few teaspoons per ten gallons is about right) baking soda to the new water,
changing this out during maintenance, you will find the pH stays a bit higher
with each change... Not dangerous. Bob Fenner>
thanks so much!!!!
Using peat to lower the pH
I have a 25 gal aquarium. I use a canister filter filled only with biomedia
(material that provides bacteria with a large colonizing surface) and the
regular mechanical filter pads. My local tap water has the following water
parameters: pH around 8 (+- 0.2) and KH=7. The fish I want to keep (central and
south American cichlids) require neutral water (pH range: 6,8-7.3 appr.). The
aquarium is decorated with driftwood, but it doesn't have a measurable effect on
the water chemistry (pH and KH are the same with tap water). Zeolite (which I
used in the past) did lower the pH and soften the water. With Zeolite I got a pH
of 7.3 and KH around 3-4 (Germ. deg.). Zeolite is a cation exchange material
which can bind ammonium and other cationic compounds (possibly calcium and
magnesium and thus the low KH value).
<Yes>
However, this not only deprive Nitrosomonas colonies of their food source
(disrupting the nitrogen cycle), but it releases species of cations in the water
(possibly sodium) which in high concentrations can be fatal for the fish.
<This is a little discussed possibility>
Now instead of using Zeolite, I am thinking of using peat. Peat binds calcium
and magnesium cations and exchanges them for hydrogen cations. So it lowers both
water hardness and the pH of the aquarium's water. Moreover blackwater will
bring out striking fish coloration!
<Yes to all>
I have seen many commercial brands that sell aquarium-safe peat. This is
probably intended to be used in a canister filter.
<Mmm, or a box filter... or in a Dacron bag placed in an area of water flow...>
However, I am not sure about what amounts of peat to use in order to bring the
water to the desired pH values. I think that using a plastic barrel (with
dechlorinated and properly heated water) pre-treating it with a nylon bag filled
with peat is safer, as the effects can be controlled before the water change is
made.
What methods do you have in mind, concerning the use of peat for lowering the
pH?
<What you describe is fine... the amount cannot be accurately guessed as peats
are not consistent in their quality in this application... best to soak, even
boil them in a bit of water, let cool, strain (and pour the boiled water in with
your mixing water) and use>
Does a KH reading of 7 germ. deg. indicate a sufficient buffering capacity or
should I experience sudden pH shifts?
Thank you in advance. Spyros
<Good questions. A dGH of 7 should be fine for buffering. Bob Fenner>
Freshwater, alkaline well, Acid Buffer use?
First off, let me say thank you for such an informative website. It has
been extremely useful and fun as I read it nearly daily.
<Glad to find it useful, of interest to you>
I'm writing with a question regarding the use of SeaChem "Acid Buffer",
specifically I would like to know whether it can be used alone to reduce the
KH and pH of our naturally hard, alkaline well water for use in our
freshwater tanks, or if the ingredients in Acid Buffer are designed to
interact only with those in SeaChem's "Alkaline Buffer" and would therefore
be inappropriate if used alone.
<Can be used by itself... but am wanting to offer a bit more input here...
Especially if you're going to be using a bunch of water... far better to
investigate R.O., Deionization technology... for your drinking, cooking use
as well as pet-fishing...>
We do own/use a Coralife RO/DI filter, and would like to mix RO/DI water
with well water in order to produce water change water with a GH and pH
appropriate to the fish in our three tanks.
<Oh! Good idea... sheesh, I ought to (wake up, and) read ahead...>
Let me preface my questions by saying that our fish currently appear to be
healthy, but after moving from Connecticut to Vermont in Aug 2004 our tank
went from a steady pH around 7.0, up to a steady pH around 8.0-8.1,
apparently as a result of our use of the well water here.
<Yes>
The root of my discomfort comes from the fact that I still don't have what I
feel like is a going-forward water-change plan as to the contents of my
make-up water - do I use 80% RO/DI and blend in 20% tap, getting soft water
with little alkalinity buffering, yet still a high pH, or do I need to move
to simply using pure torn-down RO/DI water and doing an add-back of
everything that has been lost?
<I would go with the first approach... try the one-fifth source water and
measure what this looks like pH, alkalinity wise>
I've been trying to find SeaChem "Equilibrium" and "Alkaline Buffer" at LFS
with no luck, even to the point of their ordering it for me and not having
any arrive.
I would like to know how I can best go about creating water for water
changes, given the difficult well water that we have. Is it possible for me
to simply buffer the well water down to a given pH using "Acid Buffer"
alone?
<You could (I would not)... as this may well take quite a bit of doing...
lots of buffer, time to mix, stabilize, test...>
If so my plan would be to mix this water with RO/DI water at a ratio giving
my desired GH values (more than the 3 dGH resulting if I just mix well water
with RO/DI until a reasonable sub-8.1 pH results, but not quite the 14 dGH
that is in the well water right out). I'm also a little concerned about the
phosphate levels in the tanks (~ 1mg/L) impacting the buffering provided by
Acid Buffer and/or Alkaline Buffer if I ever manage to find any of that
product.
<Mmm, I strongly advocate the use of storage containers, dedicated to
holding your water... ahead of use. Perhaps something in the way of an
"intermediate" tank/container with live plants that will "take out" a good
deal of the biomineral, alkaline content here... e.g. Ceratophyllum... We
should chat up the types of livestock you keep, want to keep... if you're
intending to breed fishes that require soft/er, more acidic water... but
starting with "cleaner" RO and adding back some source/well water is likely
the route to go here... or to switch to Great Lakes African Cichlids! This
is what I have and they relish large water changes with our "liquid rock" S.
Cal. tap>
My apologies for the length of this message, and thanks for any assistance
you may be able to provide.
Test kits:
Aquarium Pharmaceuticals (KH, GH, NO3, NO2, NH3/NH4)
(After seeing how inaccurate the AP pH tests are in
comparison to the pH meter, not sure I trust these)
Milwaukee SMS 120 pH meter (calibrated to 7.001 and 10.000 buffers)
Salifert PO4
Well water parameters:
Fresh from the tap
KH 12dKH, GH 14dGH, pH 7.0, PO4=0, NH3/NH4=0, NO2=0, NO3=0
120min of aeration
KH 11-12dKH, GH 14dGH, pH 8.4, PO4=0, NH3/NH4=0, NO2=0, NO3=0
Tank parameters:
10g - Swordtails (1 full-sized, many fry), 1 Otocinclus affinis, 76 deg F
pH=7.8, KH=3dKH, GH=6dKH, NH3/NH4=0, NO2=0, NO3=20ppm, PO4=1mg/L
planted: 1 Lg Amazon Sword, 1 Java Fern, 1 Crinum, much Bacopa
up since: 1 Jan 2005
Products used:
Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Stress-Coat
Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Aq. Salt (1tsp/3gal w/H2O changes)
Nutrafin "Plant-Gro - Iron Enriched", very occasionally
(N=0.15%, B=0.0005%, Cu=0.0005%, Fe=0.26%,
Mn=0.05%, Mo=0.0007%, Zn=0.003%)
Tetra Whisper 10 filter (Bio-bags + activated carbon)
60W incandescent lighting
gravel (believed inert, not yet tested)
Food: TetraMin large tropical flakes
TetraColor color-enhancing flake
Tubifex worms (occasionally)
29gA - 1 Blood parrot Cichlid hybrid, 6 Corydoras spp., 80 deg F
pH=8.1, KH=4-5dKH, GH=3dGH, NH3/NH4=0, NO2=0, NO3=25ppm, PO4=1.5mg/L
no plants
no CO2 infusion, occasional Aqua
up since: 15 Aug 2004 (after a move), several years beforehand
Products used:
Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Stress-Coat
Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Aq. Salt (1tsp/3gal w/H2O changes)
Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Nitra*Zorb, occasionally
TetraAqua "Easy Balance" (1tsp/5gal w/H2O changes), for the last three H2O
changes without apparent effect --
claims to stabilize pH and alkalinity
Tetra Whisper 40 filter (Bio-bags + activated carbon)
Penguin 330 filter
gravel (believed inert, not yet tested)
Food: TetraMin large tropical flakes
bloodworms (San Francisco Bay Brand)
Penn-Plax Pro Balance "Red Parrot Fish Food Diet"
29gB - 1 Honey Gourami, 4 med. swordtails, 4 Corydoras panda, 78 deg F
pH=7.8, KH=3-4dKH, GH=4dGH, NH3/NH4=0, NO2=0, NO3=10ppm
planted: 2 Amazon Sword, some Bacopa, 1 sm Barclaya
no CO2 infusion
up since: 21 May 2005
Products used:
Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Stress-Coat
Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Aq. Salt (1tsp/3gal with H2O changes)
Nutrafin "Plant-Gro - Iron Enriched", very occasionally
(N=0.15%, B=0.0005%, Cu=0.0005%, Fe=0.26%,
Mn=0.05%, Mo=0.0007%, Zn=0.003%) - less than in 10g
Tetra Whisper 40i filter
gravel (believed inert, not yet tested)
Food: TetraColor color enhancing flakes
Tubifex worms (occasionally)
Thanks!
-Brian Pardy
<And you. Bob Fenner>
Homemade Chemicals for adjusting FW pH
Hello,
<Howdy>
Read some of your articles on Wet Web Media …they’re pretty informative. I
wanted to reduce the PH in my 50 gallon tank and ran out of discus buffer.
Though about adding a few drops of vinegar (on suggestion of a colleague at
work) to the tank on a daily basis. Would this work or is this harmful to the
fish?
Thanks,
Sam Rahal.
<Can work, though in the long/er term would look into other organic acids, means
rather than acetic... tannins and flavins are better here... starting with water
with less mineral to begin with a plus. Bob Fenner>
pH and Buffering... "White Diamond" = Zeolite
I don't think the ammonia is like I thought I got another tester and it
shows no ammonia levels. Was using a test strip and had trouble reading it. What
other method would be good for testing ammonia levels.
<<Any reliable test kit will do; but make sure you are testing both NH3 and NH4,
your White Diamond will change the ammonia that the fish produce into ammonium,
so perhaps your current test kit isn't actually testing properly. Check your
test kit to make sure you are testing for both!>>
I have had this tank going for 10 years. Had an Oscar in it for 8 years until he
died 4 months ago. In the 10 years I never checked any of the levels of anything
in my tank. Until I was reading on this site about checking nitrite, nitrate,
and ammonia levels. For those 10 years I have always used white diamond and
black diamond.
<<I understand. However, it really doesn't make sense to run White Diamond,
while it won't harm anything in an established tank, it is just a waste of
money. You do not need it, it serves no purpose whatsoever in a healthy,
established tank.>>
My weekly cleaning schedule goes as follows, 50% water change. First emperor
change foam filter, second emperor rinse foam filter, and once a month clean and
change all filters in emperor's but only on alternating weeks. I never clean or
change the bio wheel.
<<Okay, good.>>
I had read on this site that Oscars like a 8.0 ph and I was thinking about
using proper ph 8.2 what do you think. The directions say I need to use African
cichlid salts with it for it to work.
<<I doubt any Oscar feels at home at a pH of 8.0. While they will tolerate it,
why waste more money raising your pH unnecessarily? A bit of research will show
you that Oscars come from the Amazon river, and the pH there is definitely not
8.2. They are more at home in a pH ranging from 6.0 to 7.5. I would assume a
neutral pH to be best, around 7.0 should be fine. As long as it is stable, and
you are not constantly messing around trying to change it. If your tap pH is
neutral, then leave it as is.>>
<<-Gwen>>
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