the Blue, Three-Spot, Gold/en, Opaline,
Even Albino! Gouramis, Yes, The Same Species, Trichogaster
trichopterus, Disease/Health 4
FAQs on Trichogaster Disease:
trichopterus Disease 1, T.
trichopterus Disease 2, T. trichopterus Disease
FAQs on Trichogaster Disease by Category:
Relatives, Genera Ctenopoma &
Microctenopoma, Betta splendens/Siamese
Related FAQs: T. trichopterus Disease 1,
T. trichopterus Disease 2, T. trichopterus Disease 3, &
trichopterus 1, Trichogaster
trichopterus 2, T. trichopterus
ID, T. trichopterus Behavior,
T. trichopterus Compatibility,
T. trichopterus Selection, T. trichopterus Systems, T. trichopterus Feeding, T. trichopterus Reproduction,
Gouramis 1, Gouramis 2, Gourami Identification, Gourami Behavior, Gourami Compatibility, Gourami Selection, Gourami Systems, Gourami Feeding, Gourami Disease, Gourami Reproduction,
THREE SPOT GOURAMI... red fins 4/29/17
Hi I need help with my three spot Gourami , recently I treat her with Seachem
Paraguarí and she get more sick after the treatment. She had little ragged fins
and sometimes flash against the decoration so I thought she has
some kind of parasite, so I treat her with SeaChem Paraguarí.
<Not a bad choice at all if you're dealing with White spot or Velvet (the usual
reasons for 'flashing') and Finrot (the usual reason for raggedy fins). So if
used as directed, you should get good results.>
After the treatment its over she still seats in bottom of aquarium facing the
back of the aquarium. Only comes out when was feeding time. She develop red fins
and tail, but to extreme redness .
<This sounds very like Finrot. Let's recap: Finrot is something that happens
after something else has damaged the fish (often fighting or fin-nipping, but
can also be environmental, for example exposure to water that is too cold for
the species being kept, or non-zero ammonia and nitrite levels, which can bring
on Finrot very quickly). Finrot is basically just bacterial that otherwise
consume decaying organic matter infecting areas with dead/dying cells, such as
wounds. These wounds become congested with blood because of all the bacteria,
and what you see is red patches alongside white patches (dead tissue) and decay
She stop eating , I don't know what to do., I change the water very often now so
she gets little better but the red fins stays.
<Something is causing this. While Paraguard and other anti-Finrot products
usually work very well, they can't stop the problem re-occurring if the
conditions aren't right. Review, urgently. Water quality problems are
probably the number-one reason for Finrot; any ammonia or nitrite level that
isn't zero is bad, and even "low" levels can cause Finrot if the fish is exposed
to them for extended periods (i.e., days or more). The second
most common reason for Finrot is fighting and/or fin-nipping. Three-Spot
Gouramis are mildly aggressive, so if you have two or more males, they will
sometimes chase one another if they feel cooped up. Other gouramis and even
cichlids like Angels will sometimes interact this way too, so review your stock
list and look for possible problems there. Next up, fin-nippers.
Serpae Tetras, Tiger Barbs, and Black Widow/Petticoat Tetras are probably the
"top three" fin-nippers aquarists buy without understanding this, though a few
other tetras and barbs will sometimes be nippy if they're bored or not kept in
Her front fins was flicking fast sometimes and she still flashing against the
decorations. she's in separate tank right now I'm doing partial water changes
everyday . Please help me, I really don't know what is wrong with
her. you think maybe she was poisoned by the SeaChem Paraguarí, or maybe she's
sensitive to this medication?
<Do see above.>
I will really appreciated if somebody contact me its really URGENT
<Hope this helps. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: THREE SPOT GOURAMI 4/30/17
Thank you for contacting me. I have only one Gourami and three 1 inch very young
albino Corydoras, there is no other fish in the tank. I have clear for life 20
gallon tank. Recently I put gravel in the tank, before that I have bare bottom
tank. Maybe the gravel is the problem, my ammonia is 0 and nitrate Is 0. Nitrate
<Which all sounds fine, and I can't think why gravel should be a problem.
It can be for burrowing fish like Spiny Eels, but not midwater things like
I maintain this tank very well I try to do everything right. The pH is 7.2
maybe I am doing something wrong I don't know that's why I contact you guys.
<I'm drawing a blank here!>
I have this Gourami for 5 years she never was sick in till now.
<So not too old.>
She was living along in 20 gallon, I thought she was lonely so I buy 3 albino
<It's possible they brought in a disease with them, such as Whitespot or Velvet.
This, in turn, can lead to Finrot if not treated. I would medicate for both, and
hope for the best. Will make the important reminder to REMOVE CARBON from the
filter; oftentimes, when people medicate and their fish fail to improve, it's
because they left carbon in the filter! Carbon
removes medication, preventing it from having the desired effect.>
The temperature fluctuating, at night when was cold drop even 5 or more degrees
and I have good heater so I don't understand.
<Indeed. How big is the heater? While a 50W heater is fine in a warm room, if
the room gets cold at night, the "next size up" would be better, so 75W.
For one thing, a heater that has to work very hard (stays on for longer) is a
heater that'll break down more quickly.>
She's progressing a lot her front fins it's almost clear, but tail stays little
bloody. Is longer I am on the Gourami subject What can I use with gouramis and
Corys, I really don't know what medication could be use with them since they are
<Both Corydoras and Gouramis will be fine with all the usual medications. I
would tend to avoid copper and formalin with more delicate species, such as
loaches, but the aquarium companies will have tested their products against the
commoner fish like yours.>
I was searching all over the internet can't find anything. I would Like to treat
them with more natural approach. I have Ich attack which is 100 % herbal.
<Unfortunately, these "natural" products don't work reliably. Melafix for
example probably does more harm than good because by the time people write to
us, their fish have gotten no better, even worse, after a week or two of
treatment using Melafix instead of an antibiotic. So, break out the
good stuff! In the US, the old Maracyn 1 and Maracyn 2 combo works well against
a range of bacterial infections, while Whitespot and Velvet medications of
all sorts are in the shops. Here in the UK, I use two European products, eSHa
2000 for Finrot and eSHa EXIT for Whitespot and Velvet.>
Can I use that with for Corys and gouramis? And can I use salt with them.
<Yes; the old salt/heat method will work well against Whitespot and to some
degree Velvet; do read:
Do understand salt will help against Whitespot and Velvet, but has little/no
impact on bacterial Finrot.>
Thank you so much, Sincerely Angelica
Reddish tint on gourami fins = ammonia issue?
Hi team, hope you had a great weekend. I added a nice set of 5 feisty cherry
barbs to my year-old aquarium last week--love them so far--and they acclimated
themselves very quickly.
<Would plan to get a few more unless the tank is tiny... Cherry Barbs look best
in largish groups, 8 or more, ideally half that group being females.
But yes, a great species.>
However, today I noticed my two gourami (one gold and one Opaline) are starting
to redden on their caudal fins, radiating from the body. I also noticed the
spots where their pectoral fins meet their bodies becoming red.
They are eating well but their fins are folding more than normal, and they are a
bit more lethargic than normal, although not laying on the bottom. Also, the
gold gourami's colors aren't as bold. No open stores tonight for a testing kit
but I read that this could be potential ammonia poisoning, possibly due to a
spike from adding so many fish at once and/or overfeeding?
<Could easily be, or fin-nipping, or fighting. So you need to review. Take an
ammonia test, though honestly, I prefer to use nitrite test kits because they
both reveal filter problems but nitrite is less likely to report a false
positive (neutralised chloramine for example can register as ammonia, so check
some tap water with water conditioner added, and compare to your aquarium water
ammonia test results).>
The gourami are occasionally gasping for air (more than just a typical anabantid
gulp) which furthers my thought that it's ammonia.
<Might be, but they do of course breathe air, as you state, and do so more often
the warmer the water.>
I skipped their meal tonight, did a 30% water change, and will get a testing kit
tomorrow. Is there anything else I can/should do? Is there any hope for my fish?
Also, if I should keep doing changes now, where can/should I get healthy water
in a pinch? The packaged "aquarium water" from the local big box?
Thanks in advance!
<For now, stick with daily water changes around 25% or so, until such time the
fish behave more normally. Medicating as per Finrot isn't a bad idea, but you
might find the fish heal under their own steam if conditions improve. Cheers,
Re: Reddish tint on gourami fins = ammonia issue?
Following up! Both conditioned water (used Prime) and tank water tested 0 for
all ammonia--no nitrite kits at LFS--so I guess that's not the problem?
<Looks like that's true, yes.>
Could last night's 25% have changed everything? 1 gourami looks a little better
but the other seems worse, jumpy and a bit of shimmy, if those terms are
<Water changes *do* indeed fix a lot of problems. A good rule of thumb is to see
what happens if you do a big water change, 25-50%, keeping temperature and water
chemistry the same. If the fish perk up, the problem is probably environmental,
and medicine might not be needed if you can fix things quickly enough. Perhaps
do a series of water changes, once every day or two, for a week, ten days. After
that, good chance everything will be fine.>
Cherries and Corys seem fine. Haven't fed in a day and doing another 25% as I
write, as you suggested.
<Cool; good luck! Neale.>
Re: Reddish tint on gourami fins = ammonia issue?
Thanks Neale! I'll report back in a week. You're awesome.
<Not sure the Mrs. agrees, but I try! Cheers, Neale.>
Trichogaster repro.? Constipation? What? 7/28/15
asking a question about my gold Gourami my female Gourami is pregnant and there
is no male Gourami to build a bubble nest what to do .
asking a question about my gold Gourami my female Gourami is pregnant and there
is no male Gourami to build a bubble nest what to do
<Female Gouramis don't get pregnant. Your Gourami is either constipated or has
Dropsy. The former is caused by poor diet, typically too much flake and not
enough fibre (fresh greens, frozen brine shrimp, that sort of thing).
Dropsy is a bacterial infection caused by a poor environment. Do read:
I checked and she has eggs
<How? How can you tell if a female Gourami has eggs inside her? True, females
will appear a little more convex around the abdomen when 'ripe' and ready to
spawn, but this isn't particularly noticeable. If she looks swollen, like she's
swallowed a ball, then she has some other problem.
Constipation or else Dropsy, this latter characterised by the scales rising up
from the body, very noticeable when viewed from above ('pine cone appearance').
99 times out of 100, when casual fishkeepers say their egg-laying fish is
pregnant, it's wishful thinking. Cheers, Neale.> do I use it properly? Pictures
included below. Thank you.
<Bob may have some ideas. Cheers, Neale.>
<<Epsom salt. B>><<No pix anywhere>>
Blue Gourami 3/14/15
My blue gouramis body has just began to turn orange but his head remains
his original color (silver/blue), and he never leaves his little home
except on the few occasions when he eats. Would you guy's be able to
tell me what is wrong? It would be much appreciated, thank you.
<Without a photo can't say anything sensible. Sometimes Gouramis do
change colour, whether naturally or because of nerve damage, stress, or
some other factor. Blue Gouramis are semi-aggressive, particularly the
males, so if you have two or more, and just the one is hiding away a
lot, chances are good he's being bullied by another male. Review, and
re: Blue Gourami 3/15/15
I do have two but one does not bully the other they are actually really
good friends and if it changing colors like blue to black and black to
orange is normal thanks for the information
<How do you know they're friends? Interactions between Gouramis are easy
to misread. Hmm... good example... "kissing" of Kissing Gourami fame is
often fighting. If they're happy Gouramis, they'll largely ignore each
Spending much time with each other might be short-term pairing (if male
and female, though males chase away females after spawning) or
fighting... Keep an open mind. In any case, without meaningful data
(photo; description of aquarium in terms of size, water chemistry, water
quality) it's hard to say anything more detailed. Cheers, Neale.>
re: Blue Gourami 3/15/15
Well they do ignore each other about 96 percent of the time
<Hmm... still not convinced they're getting along.>
and the tank size is about one foot long and about one foot tall
<Too small. Let's say your tank is a 12 inch cube. That works out at
about 7 US gallons. A single Blue Gourami needs at least 20 US gallons
just to be healthy. I would have you read here:
On top of that, two males WILL NOT tolerate each other even in tanks
that small. As the Americans would say, it's a "rookie mistake" to keep
more than one male Blue Gourami in an aquarium. In fact it was one of
the first fishkeeping mistakes I ever made, some 35 years ago! While
very hardy, Blue Gourami males are very territorial and can be extremely
and I have no idea what the water quality
<Easily fixed. Either buy a water testing kit or take some water to your
local tropical fish shop and have them test it. At minimum, you want a
nitrite (not nitrate) test and a pH test. These are the most informative
tests. My hypothesis here is that poor water quality has made injuries
on your weaker Blue Gourami become infected.>
is and I didn't put a picture because I don't no how to put a
picture<Take photo, resize it so it isn't too big (less than 1 MB,
please), the attach to your email. Really is helpful. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Blue Gourami 3/16/15
So since it needs 40 US gallons just for two blue gourami it's a bad
thing I have a sucker fish and another gourami (platinum, gold, or
orange I don't know which) and today I saw the one that's turning orange
has a black head now
<Blue and Gold Gouramis are the same species (kind of like how people
come in different colours) and alongside Lavender Gourami, Opaline
Gourami and Cosby Gourami are all just Trichogaster trichopterus
properly called Trichopodus trichopterus). Any and all of these Gouramis
will view each other as the same thing, and males will be territorial
towards one another and pushy towards females, sometimes violently so.
You can keep a singleton in 15-20 gallons, and a male and female in 20
gallons with a bit of floating foliage for shade and shelter. But two
males will squabble in small tanks, and I wouldn't risk two males in
less than 25, 30 gallons, and the bigger the tank, the better. Oddly
enough, overcrowding can help, which is what you see in the tropical
fish tank, where a dozen males and females live cheek by jowl without
much aggression. But just two or three males together with squabble, as
I say, and is best avoided.
Really, I do need a photo to say what's going on to the "black-headed"
Gourami, but at the same time, if he's hiding a lot, chances are he's
being picked on. Males have longer dorsal fins than females, so sexing
Trichopodus trichopterus is quite easy. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Blue Gourami 3/17/15
I will try to get a photo later on in the day
<Great... that'll help a lot. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Blue Gourami 3/21/15
Here it is, you can see the black stripes
<Not sure that I can, to be honest; the gourami is at the back, out of focus,
and the photo is rather faint. But in any event, review our recent
correspondence and act accordingly. Read, perhaps starting here:
Re: Blue Gourami 3/22/15
Your not sure you can what?
<See the black stripes on the fish. Neale.>
Female gouramis 2/10/13
I have a 2yo 29 gallon, very heavily planted, lots of drift wood, and
gravel, 3 female blue gourami's and 1 male, a high fin plecostomus,
<Pterygoplichthys gibbiceps; needs a tank three times bigger than 29
gallons. Surely it's pretty big by now… 20 cm/8 inches or more… should
be if more than a year old, and adults get to some 50 cm/20 inches.>
an albino bristle nose plecostomus,
<Ancistrus sp.; a much better alternative.>
2 peppered Cory's and 2 albino Cory's, and 8 hatchet fish my tank has a
40gl submersible filter and is kept at 80 degrees,
<Slightly too warm for the Corydoras.>
I have not checked my ph in a VERY long time as everyone has seemed
<So what is the pH now…? Changes in pH can occur in tanks between water
changes, and these can stress your fish.>
and lively and I do %20 water changes every other week with purified
water. First let me say, I do not want fry!! I asked for 4 females at
the pet store and at the purchase time they did in fact all look like
females but were a lot smaller/younger, anyway to the point my 3
females have looked FULL of eggs for about 2 months now and I had been
hoping they would just eventually come out...obviously that's not the
case, what do I do? Can this be dangerous? I have rationed food thinking
they were just fat, and there was no change and wouldn't the male be fat
also if that were the case? How do I help my females to get rid of their
eggs without fertilizing them with the male? Should I get rid of my male
would this stop this from happening again in the future? Would getting
rid of my male immediately make the females drop their eggs? I don't
want to loose all my gouramis!
<Gouramis don't get pregnant, they lay eggs, but is natural for females
to seem slightly fuller than normal when they're holding the eggs
anything up to a few days prior to spawning. If you have one or more
females that appear dramatically swollen though, like they've swallowed
a little ball, then they're either madly overfed or have Dropsy. If
they've been overfed, then the male could be fat-looking too, as would
other, random fish in the tank. If it is ONLY one or two fish that are
swollen and the others are all naturally lean, then Dropsy is more
likely. Other symptoms of Dropsy include a pinecone-like appearance when
viewed from above, lethargy, a disinterest in food. Given your tank is
likely overstocked, possibly severely, environmental stress would be the
most likely reasons for Dropsy. Do read:
Treatment is possible; combine Epsom salt therapy with suitable
antibacterial medication (like eSHa 2000) or antibiotic (Maracyn 2 seems
as good as any). Do note regular salt won't help, and neither will doing
nothing -- left alone, Dropsy is invariably fatal. It's a sign of organ
failure, which clearly isn't welcome! Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Female gouramis
First, I'm not completely ignorant (in fact i believe i never once in my
first email sad "pregnant" i said eggs, many times)
<Ah, meant only in the general sense that female Gouramis may swell up
with eggs for a few days prior to spawning but not for weeks, months at
a time… so they shouldn't look "pregnant" for long, if at all.>
and have done a lot of research on the breeding habits and egg laying
process of gourami fish (before getting them and decided i did not want
to do it hence the asking for 4 females) I have not found anything on
what to do if you don't want fry and the females became full of eggs!
<There's zero chance of Gourami fry surviving if you don't make an
effort to rear them. They are tiny, need infusoria to feed upon.>
(you assumed my fish are sick and did NOT answer ANY of my questions)
<Oh, did try to. If three fish are all swollen up, and have been so for
more than a couple days, and you're sure overfeeding and/or constipation
aren't factors, then do assume Dropsy or something similar.>
The 3 females are the only "fat" fish in my tank,
I have decreased feeding when I first noticed it and nothing changed in
there appearance, they are still VERY active and interested in food as
is the rest of my tank
<This is promising, and means treatment should work.>
and they do not look like pine cones,
<Which doesn't rule out Dropsy. In any case, something *is* amiss, and
you should proceed from that. Egg-binding is possible, I suppose, but
it's (extremely) rare in fish. Epsom salt can help here. But I'd be more
toward something else being wrong. Are these Dwarf Gouramis? These are
particularly prone to bacterial and viral infections.>
if I treated and nothing changed in their appearance would you then
believe me that my fish are NOT sick?
<You don't need to convince me of anything. It's about working through
the probabilities, from most to least likely explanations, and where you
can't pin down exactly what's wrong, you can at least treat for things
so you can "tick them off" the list.>
wouldn't the salt effect my Cory's?
<Do note I said Epsom Salt, not aquarium salt, and no, doesn't harm
My pH looks to be just above 7, using a testing strip from a local pet
store, which if I remember right and through all my reading, is good for
every fish species In my tank.
<Ah now, don't fixate on pH. It actually doesn't matter much; Corydoras
are fine between pH 6 and 8. What matters is hardness, that's the bit
fish "feel". All that matters for the fish is that the pH is stable.>
On another note The plecostomus is not as old as the tank, I didn't buy
the plecostomas's until recently, after there was plenty of Algae in the
tank for them to eat
<Do need more to eat than algae. Hikari Algae Wafers are a good balanced
diet, rich in both algae and shrimp meal.>
(I plan to upgrade as the tank grows, in about 6mo and both Plecos are
currently about 3in)
<Cool. But do bear in mind how large Pterygoplichthys gibbiceps will
get, and plan accordingly. Anything smaller than 75 US gallons would be
pointless (and dirty and smelly). Gorgeous fish though; kept two in a
200-gallon aquarium at university. So if you have the space and
prodigious filtration (they defecate like its an Olympic sport) they're
excellent companions for large community fish.>
Re: Female gouramis
I have a 55 with a NASTY eel
<What kind of eel? Spiny Eels won't be mean enough to damage a Plec too
large to swallow whole.>
in it and a feather fin catfish? the high fin plecostomus will
eventually end up there when it's big enough that I don't feel my eel
will harm it and it will only house those 3 fish and those alone…
<I agree, but 55 gallons is a push for this many large fish.>
When I move into a larger space (hopefully with the next year) they will
be upgraded to a 240 Plexi glass i have in storage
<Ah, now you're cooking!>
and from there i will try to figure out what fish can be housed with the
eel (that KILLS everything)
<Not an adult Pterygoplichthys…>
and the gourami tank will be transferred from the 30 to the 55...so in
short I do have a plan for how large the Pleco will get.
My fish get (what i think) is a very good diet I actually pride myself
on how colorful and healthy my fish are and i get many compliments on my
gouramis! My tanks get Mysis shrimp, brine shrimp, omega one shrimp
pellets, Tubifex worms, omega one veggie rounds, cucumber, peas,
lettuce, blood worms, earth worms (cut up) live Molly babies I breed
myself, of course not all at once every feeding. But they never get the
same thing two days in a row. With the exception of the omega one veggie
rounds (all the fish LOVE these and fight over them)
<Your fish eat better than mine. Better than me, even.>
Now regarding the Three spot gouramis
<A tough variety, rarely problematic.>
I've decided to try to breed them as I feel the females are in fact full
of eggs, and I have had "egg binding" happen before with Bettas, (this
is why I'm concerned it has happened to my gouramis being that there was
no "safe place" for the male to make a bubble nest and for the females
to expel her eggs) I've made a "dead spot" in my tank using plants where
the current is almost nothing at the surface (my male is already showing
interest within the 30min of me doing this) my plan (if they breed) is
to collect the eggs and use them to feed my eel. Hopefully this works...
I'd really like to not lose my gouramis...
<Epsom salt can really help with egg binding. It's a muscle relaxant
among other things, around 1-3 teaspoons per 5 gallons/20 litres should
do the trick.>
With the tank and gouramis being 2yo with no previous problems... Why
would a problem arise from seemingly nowhere?
<Egg binding is difficult to predict. It's very rare in fish. So it's
hard to predict what would cause it. Genetics may be a factor, or age,
or diet, or some combination of factors. That all three females are
exhibiting egg binding at the same time is VERY odd and to be honest I'm
not convinced. Some slight fattening up as per sexual maturity and prior
to spawning seems more likely… do need to see a photo of these fish if
possible. Would settle my mind whether this is really a problem or not.>
Water changes have never bothered them or the water much, they get a
good diet and I keep the filter clean (in fact just got the new 40gl
submersible a few weeks ago) and they are kept at a consistent temp, the
only thing that has changed recently is the brand new filter...
They look full of eggs to me...these were just taken and he looks
healthy (not fat) to me. I would imagine If it were over feeding he
would look as plump as the females
<These fish do not look unusually fat or otherwise. I would do nothing
more than increase fibre content of diet (brine shrimps are good) while
using Epsom salt as described before. This won't harm any other fish,
may do some good as a laxative. But provided fish remain active and
interested in food,
I would consider these fish healthy. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Female gourami, no reading, using WWM
How much Epsom salt would you suggest for a 30gl tank
<1-3 teaspoons per 5 gallons/20 litres. It's as well to assume your tank
doesn't contain 30 gallons; knock 10-15% off for rocks and gravel, i.e.,
your tank likely holds 25.5-27 gallons. So calculate on the basis of these,
more conservative figures.>
and how do I "administer" it (i.e.: just pour it in)
<Dissolve calculated quantity in a small jug of warm water. Pour into
aquarium in stages, perhaps 5-6 portions across an hour.>
Lumps on 3 spotted gourami 7/19/12
<We ask that folks limit their graphics file sizes to hundreds of Kbytes...
yours are seven megs...>
My female 3 spotted Gourami has developed some lumps in the last month or
so. The one side is much bigger than the other, please see attached photos.
I have a male too, but he seems fine. They share the tank with Sword Tails,
Clown Loaches, Kuhli Loaches, Cherry Barbs and Pleco's. All the other fish
seems fine. She hasn't stopped eating and still swims around, though not as
much as before.
Please help me to identify what is wrong with her and tell me how to fix it?
Please let me know if you need any more information.
<Have seen these anomalous bumps several times; only read that they're
attributed to "Sporozoan" infestations... and never seen successfully
treated. You might try Metronidazole/Flagyl lacing foods; but I'm not
hopeful. I don't consider that they're "catching" and don't seem to
disimprove the overall health of their host fishes...>
Liezle van der Westhuizen
<Welcome. Bob Fenner, San Diego, CA, US>
Re: Lumps on 3 spotted gourami 7/20/12
Thank you for the quick response and sorry about the size of the pics!
I'll try your suggestions and let you know if the outcome is positive.
<I thank you. BobF>