Old Betta, New Popeye.  1/9/07
Greetings WetWebCrew!
<Christine>
I just have a quick question, but first I want to say how informative and helpful your site has been in keeping my fish happy and healthy. Thank you for all the hours you spend getting information out there so people can take better care of their pets!
<Welcome>
On to my question, I have an old Veiltail Betta who will have been with me for six years come late March,
<This is an incredibly long time for a Betta splendens to live... You are to be commended for your excellent care>
and he has recently developed Popeye in his right eye – it showed up on Friday the 5th. He lives in a two-gallon tank with a rock and a few plants, all tank parameters are fine, I never use any equipment with him that I use with my other fish, and he has been quite healthy for the last four years, so I’m about 95% positive that he bumped his eye on the rock and that’s what’s caused the Popeye.
<Yes... almost always if this is unilateral (one-sided)>
As soon as I noticed it, I changed the water completely and have been doing 50% water changes every two days. I also added a light dose of Epsom salts this time around,
<Good>
and while he hasn’t been looking any better, the eye hasn’t gotten any worse, either, which I will take as a good sign (Except that his eye has become a bit milkier, but I assumed this would happen as time wore on).
I did, however, notice one other thing about his condition that I’ve never seen before (And couldn’t find information on while browsing your FAQs) – the scales on that side of his face seem to stick out some, and I was wondering if this was “normal” for a fish afflicted with Popeye?
<Mmm, depending on the cause... yes, along with the mechanical injury. Good observation>
Or is this a sign of some other disease that I need to get to work on right away?
<Mmm, no>
His gills seem to be fine, he isn’t bloated, and this is the only area that the scales stick out, so no dropsy. I am unfortunately rather limited as far as LFSs go – There is a small one that carries your typical Jungle products about half an hour away, and a Petco about an hour and fifteen minutes, but that’s about it.
He’s obviously quite dear to me having been with me for nearly six years, but I also realize that he’s rather fragile at his age. So, do you have any suggestions, or should I just keep going as I have been, but keep an extra careful eye on him?
<Yes to this latter approach. This is what I would do>
Thank you for your time!
Christine Jordan
<Thank you for sharing... Bob Fenner, out in a "special place" (Hawai'i) where your relation (David Starr Jordan) and Evermann surveyed marine fishes some time back....>

Betta stomach bulge: could be dropsy, constipation, but most likely a tumor   1/8/07
I have had my Betta for a year and a half.  Seven months ago he developed a bulge on one side.  It grew to the point where his scales were not covering it.  This didn't seem to bother him until recently.  Now it seems the bulge has grown to the other side and he seems listless.  He also does not to seem to be eating.  Is there help for him or is it time to let him go?
<Sounds to me like it could be a tumor, especially since it was notably asymmetrical at first.  Couple of other things to rule out though, namely dropsy and/or constipation...do his scales have a pinecone-like appearance, especially if the fish is viewed from the top? If so, this could be dropsy, which is usually a symptom of a internal bacterial infection.  Here's a picture of an fish with dropsy: http://www.fishjunkies.com/Diseases/dropsy.php
Alternatively, it could be constipation; have you ever tried fasting your Betta for a couple of days, then feeding a frozen, then thawed pea or two (cut up for the Betta's small stomach)?
Also, Epsom salts are particular effective in relieving fish constipation (and may assist if a build up of fluid is present, as is the case with dropsy).
However, I suspect, based on your description, length of time the fish has been affected, etc., that this is a tumor - these are really quite prevalent in the Betta fish, perhaps due to the over breeding the species is subjected to.  Tumors aren't curable, and sadly, will likely cause the end for an affected Betta one day.  In the meantime, keep the fish comfortable in appropriate conditions (i.e., isolated, especially in this Betta's case, in a minimum 2-3 gal. filtered tank, with heater kept stable at 80-82 degrees F, weekly water changes, etc.)  Of course, try to get your Betta to eat - what are you feeding him? Have you tried frozen, then thawed bloodworms or small mysis shrimp? All my Bettas go nuts for those foods.  Also, you can use a drop or two of pure garlic extract (either from the grocery store, or a product called Garlic Xtreme, made by Kent) to soak his food in, and hopefully re-stimulate his appetite.  If all this fails, I'm sad to say his time may be nearly up.  I've lost a couple of Bettas over the years to what I suspect are tumors...
Once you've made a definite diagnosis of a tumor, the fish can live a while, still eating and swimming.  If, the fish has stopped doing even these things, then it may be time, sadly, to euthanize him; best method for that, in my opinion, if pure clove oil...it simply puts the fish to sleep.
I'll cross my finger for your Betta - hopefully, at the very least, we can get him eating again.
Best regards, Jorie>

Sick Betta   1/3/07
Hi.
<<Hi, Mark. Tom here.>>
I have a sick Betta.  One just died and another is on it's way out. At least I think he is.  
<<Sorry to hear about the one that died, Mark. Let’s see if we can avoid this happening with the second.>>
He is in his own tank.  I have a live plant in with him.  It is about a quart and a half tank with a 7 watt thermal heat lamp.  
<<Mine’s in a 20-gallon tank with a 100W submersible heater and an AquaClear 50 power filter, Mark. You know where I’m going to go with this, right? Sure, it’s “overkill” by hobbyist standards, though my Betta doesn’t think so. The point is that you’re keeping your pet in far too small of a “tank” for it to thrive. Additionally, a heat lamp isn’t the best choice for a heat source.>>
I have been leaving the light on during the day and turning it off at night.  
<<From the standpoint of temperature, alone, you’d be better off doing exactly the opposite. Since temperatures typically drop during the evening hours, this is precisely, from the perspective of “stability”, why you should be keeping your pet warm at night. It’s the fluctuations that you want to steer clear of.>>
The fish's symptoms:  sluggish, eating sparingly, hangs at the bottom, and the fins are folded up.  
<<Stressed…>>
I have been feeding the fish live brine shrimp and Betta bites.  
<<Not bad choices in the least but he’s got to eat them.>>
I have been using a water conditioner and changing the water at least once a week.  
<<Good.>>
The fish that just died had the same exact symptoms as the current fish.  
<<Same type of environment? We’ve got some work to do. First, think 2 ½ gallons as the minimum tank size. Optimally, you should probably be looking at a 10-gallon tank. (Did I mention that mine is “overkill”? :) ) Second, you MUST have a heater for the tank. A stable temperature between 80 and 84 degrees would go a long way in making him happy. Third, you’ve got to provide filtration on some level. Your water changes are definitely on the mark but it’s not enough. Again, stability is what you need to concentrate on. It’s the key to duplicating their natural environment and what the hobby is all about, i.e. providing, in miniature, a replication of their natural habitat. Better than that is icing on the cake!>>
I just can't figure out what I'm doing wrong.
<<Not “wrong”, Mark. Just time to take keeping your Betta to a higher level. The misinformation on these fish could fill volumes. Quickly, run out to your LFS and score some “aquarium” salt. (If you happen to have some uniodized (like Kosher) salt at home, it will do as well. DO NOT use table salt!)  Do a water change with about one teaspoon of this salt dissolved in along with the conditioner. I’ll bet my “job” that you’ll see an improvement quickly. In the meantime, start shopping for a “real” Betta tank.>>
I have tried BettaFix with no results.  
<<Right church, wrong pew. It’s bigger than that…>>
Thanks.
Mark
<<Let me know how things turn out, Mark. There’s a lot more that I can “bore” you with. :) Happy New year to you. Tom>>

Re: Sick Betta  1/4/07
Hi Tom.
<<Hi, Mark.>>
Thanks for responding so quickly.  
<<Not a problem, Mark.>>
I added the aquarium salt as you suggested.  
<<I'm glad you did.>>
I'll also leave the light on during the evening and off during the day.
<<A start, Mark, and a good one.>>
I will do some tank shopping this week.  I'll let you know how things go.  
<<I like feedback, Mark, so that would be appreciated.>>
Thanks again.  
<<You're more than welcome.>>
By the way, you asked if the previous fish was in a similar environment than the one now.  The tanks are exactly alike.
<<Now we have something to go on.>>
Mark
<<Keep me posted if you would. Believe me, the follow-up
helps a lot. Best regards. Tom>>

Re: Sick Betta    1/5/07
Hi Tom.  
<<Hello, Mark. Tell me something good. :)>>
It has been a couple of days now, and my Betta is showing little improvement, although he did eat a couple of Betta bites today.  
<<Not as good as I was hoping for but the display of appetite is in the right direction.>>
Yesterday, I removed the gravel and the plant from the tank, cleaned out the tank again, and added a small amount of aquarium salt.  My logic was that maybe there is a type of bacteria in the gravel or maybe the plant, but again, I'm
guessing here.  
<<The logic's sound enough, Mark, but don't over-think yourself here. Very easy
(trust me, I know!) to jump from one ‘logical’ idea to the next believing that "this
one" will solve all the fish's problems. Optimum water conditions will do more for
your pet than just about anything else you can provide. You aren't going to get rid of all of the bacteria in your aquarium - all aquariums have it - but you can make things uncomfortable for your Betta by over-doing it where cleaning and water changes are concerned.>>
I also put the fish in a warmer room, hoping that this would help.  Tomorrow I'm
going for the new tank.  I have two Bettas (in separate tanks).  I have been thinking about getting a 5 gallon tank with an opaque divider.  I will add a filtration system and a submersible heat lamp.  Would this be sufficient?  
<<Provided that the filtration and lamp will keep both compartments uniformly filtered and sufficiently heated, I don’t see a real problem here, Mark. Just make sure the little buggers can’t get at one another! Their ability to launch themselves into other sources of water is vastly underestimated.>>
I'm also" kicking around" getting a 10 gallon tank with the divider as opposed to the 5 gallon tank.  
<<Don’t just kick it, Mark. Pick this up and run with it! :) >>
I'm just hoping that my Betta can make it to tomorrow.  
<<I’m keeping my fingers crossed as well.>>
I think, or hope, that the bigger tank with better heating and appropriate filtration will be the answer.  
<<Both are going to go a long way here. One item that I’d request you look into/purchase, if available, is BIO-Spira from Marineland. A new filter won’t have the beneficial bacteria established and this product will do that for you almost instantly…within hours rather than weeks. Also, I’d recommend a water test kit such as the kit from Aquarium Pharmaceuticals. The BIO-Spira will be invaluable to both you and the fish and, the test kit will put the basic but essential details of what’s going on in your tank at your fingertips.>>
I'll keep you posted.  Thanks again.
<<I’d appreciate this very much, Mark, and you’re quite welcome.>>
-Mark
<<Tom>>

Re: Sick Betta  1/9/07
Hi Tom.  
<<Hello, Mark.>>
I bought a 10 gallon tank with a 50 watt heater (set at 80 degrees) and a Penguin 100 filter as you suggested.  
<<Very nice.>>
I have the two Bettas in the tank with a divider to separate them.  The newer Betta is doing great in the new tank.  
<<Good to hear.>>
The sick Betta is not doing well at all.  
<<Not so good, sadly.>>
In fact, last night I saw him on his side several times.  He appears to be on the verge of no return, but this has been going on for a few days now.  
<<Has aquarium salt been added, Mark?>>
I'm starting to become a bit concerned that he might make the new Betta sick also.  
<<The same could happen in any community tank, Mark. To be avoided if possible, of course, but it doesn’t mean you made a wrong choice here.>>
He spit something up in the tank today.  It looked like food, but this was well after feeding him, probably 10 hours after feeding.  
<<A bit long after feeding to be holding food down. If there’s no sign of “bloat”, i.e. a Dropsy-like condition, I’m going to recommend an Epsom salt bath. Pre-treat about a gallon of water matching the temperature of the tank. Add one tablespoon of Epsom salts to the water and move the sick Betta into this container for about a half hour. If he’s “compacted”, you’ll (Lord willing) see him poop (pardon my French). The fact that he “vomitted” indicates to me that he can’t pass what’s in his stomach. Could be more complicated than this but let’s deal with what we can.>>
Any suggestions that you might have would be most welcome.  
<<See above.>>
It seems like I'm in a tough spot here.  If I keep him in with the healthy Betta, I'm concerned he'll get the healthy guy sick.  
<<Actually, I don’t think so but let’s not take a chance.>>
If I take him out and put him in another tank, I'll be right back where I started.
<<Agreed and, I’m getting frustrated with my fellow hobbyists being in “tough spots”. I want “our” fish to get better. I won’t tell you this won’t be stressful on him but this is my best, and safest, call right now, Mark.>>  
Thanks.
-Mark
<<Tom>>

Re: Sick Betta  1/17/07
Tom-
<<Hi, Mark.>>
I thought I would give you an update.  
<<Okay.>>
Well, I have good news and bad news.
The bad news is, my Betta died.  
<<I'm sorry to hear that, Mark. Very sorry, in fact...>>
The good news is, I now have a single Betta (I removed the divider that separated the two fish) in a 10 gallon tank, and I think I'll keep it that way for a while.  
<<An optimal way to go. Couldn't be better, really.>>
The Betta in the tank now is doing great. Thanks for your help in all of this.
<<Wasn't good enough, Mark, but I appreciate the thought. I'm very happy your Betta's doing great, though. In your good hands, he'll thrive.>>
Mark
<<My best to you and, best of luck. Tom>>

I think my Betta is sick   1/3/07
Hi,
<<Hello, Ray. Tom with this evening.>>
I have had my Betta fish for almost a month now. He lives alone in a 1 & 1/2 gallon tank with some rocks & a bamboo plant.
<<A little small, Ray, but not bad by most standards.>>
A couple of days ago I noticed that the underside of his body is turning a pale silverish grey color.
<<You don’t mention what his natural coloration is but I would guess this is significantly different?>>
I also noticed last night that he was laying on the bottom of his tank with his head in the rocks. He is still eating, but just doesn't seem himself.
<<He’s stressed, Ray. Something ain’t right here…>>
I use drinking water (sodium free bottled water) & change it each week.
<<Any reason why you don’t use tap water? In a lot of cases, bottled water is lacking in the trace elements that fish need, and get, from our tap water. Elements are “purified” out of some bottled waters that are essential to our pets’ health.>>
I feed him Betta pellets once daily & fast him one day a week.
<<You might try varying the diet here. Too much of even a “good” thing isn’t always beneficial. Otherwise, I see nothing wrong with your regimen.>>
I have never tested his water levels, as I assumed that with the bottled water it would be ok.
<<Lots can happen in the tank, Ray. Some of those “trace” elements that I referred to can “buffer” against changes in pH. It doesn’t take long, at all, for things to go hinky where certain parameters are concerned. Changes in pH can be every bit as devastating as ammonia or nitrite spikes. Not to “wax” here but you might have seen in the news a while back where parents were literally starving their babies to death by feeding them “healthy”, non-fattening foods. Exactly the opposite of what babies need! A “good” idea gone sour. Same with bottled (purified) water.>>
I also took the bamboo plant out just in case that is what's causing this.
<<Can’t blame you. I might have done the same, just in case.>>
His fins looks a little tattered, so I'm thinking he could have some sort of infection or fin rot.
<<Aquarium salt. Did I mention aquarium salt? :) >>
His stomach is also little larger than normal so maybe it's constipation??
<<Bettas are easily over-fed. Extremely, easily over-fed. His stomach is the size of one of his eyes. Need I say more?>>
I plan on buying some Epson salt tonight to see if it helps with that.
<<Cut back even more on the feeding. Epsom salts do a wonderful job but it is, in fact, a treatment. The less you do to “treat”, the lower the stress on the fish. Let him win this one, with your assistance, on his own. Add the aquarium salt, appropriately, and let’s see where this goes. By the way, you haven’t mentioned how warm the tank is. Should be in the range of 80-84 degrees F. These guys need “warm” conditions. Higher than most tropicals need, in fact, and, stable…>>
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
Ray
<<I hope everything turns out all right, Ray. Best regards. Tom>>

Re: I think my Betta is sick   1/4/07
Thanks, Tom. I appreciate your help.
<<Happy to help, Ray.>>
The temp. of his water is only about 70 degrees, so I'm planning on getting a heater...I don't want to freeze the little guy!
<<Who would? :) >>
I know I can't just turn the heater on & set it to 80-84 off the start, I would need him to gradually adapt to the warm water, right?
<<Absolutely correct, Ray. Fish can tolerate increases in temperature better than decreases but you still want to do this slowly. Easier said than done but I would suggest about 4-5 degrees per day. Every couple of hours give the dial another twist. Monitor the actual temperature of the tank, though. Heaters are notoriously inaccurate by a couple of degrees, plus or minus.>>
How do I do this?
<<See above, Ray. (Haven't mentioned this one in a while but most supermarkets carry little thermometers (like a meat thermometer) that look like they'd fit in your pocket. In fact, they would. Little plastic case for the sensor end. These can actually be calibrated with a small adjustable wrench. Simply fill a glass with ice (crushed would be the best) and add cold water. Let this sit a minute, or so, and place the thermometer in. Below the face (the dial, if you will) there should be two opposing flat spots that the wrench will fit on.
Since ice water, in equilibrium, will be 32 degrees, you can turn the dial (the head of the thermometer) to match this setting. Granted, the one I use is for refrigeration work but you'll be close enough. I use it for water changes, etc., all the time. A handy little gadget.>>
Thanks again.
Ray
<<Happy to help, Ray. You know where to find me if you have other questions. Tom>>

Re: I think my Betta is sick (follow-up)   1/12/06
Hi Tom,
<<Hi, Ray. Good to hear from you.>>
I just wanted to say thank you so much for your help.
<<Glad I could, Ray.>>
Thumper is doing MUCH better! :)
<<Then I’m REALLY glad I could help! :) >>
I got the heater, aquarium salt, and started using tap water and he seems to be back to his normal self. I came home last night and his tank was full of bubbles and he was swimming around like crazy, it's good to know he is feeling better.
<<Well, if he isn’t feeling better it sounds like he’s doing a heck of job of faking it!>>
I also have only been feeding him every 2-3 days -- rotating between the pellets and freeze dried blood worms to give him a little variety.
<<Might want to keep it to just two days, Ray, but I like how you’re going about this.>>
Thanks again for you help, have a great day!
<<If I wasn’t before, I am now! Thanks a million for the feedback.>>
Ray
<<Good job, by the way. As I’ve mentioned before with other folks, we can only offer the advice. You made it work. Well done! Tom>>

New Betta in 2.5 gal cycled tank breathing rapidly  - 12/29/06
Hi there,
<<Hello, Mercedes. Tom here.>>
My compliments on your site.  Very informative.  
<<Thank you kindly.>>
Despite all the info, I think I need your advice.  I have just introduced a young Betta to a cycled 2.5 gallon tank (nitrites and ammonia 0, nitrates about 20).  I watched him for about an hour in the LFS to check his breathing and for signs of disease.  He was the best of the bunch and looked very healthy.  The tank temperature is at 80F, and I have a UGF which could probably use a cleaning based on the level of nitrates.  The tank is stocked with 5 live plants (2 of which will be moving to my other tank once I'm sure my other Betta is through his velvet problem) and has been stable at 5 ppm of nitrates for 2 weeks, but the first test yesterday (after I did about a 50% water change before adding the new guy) was up to 20 ppm.
<<Agreed that 20 ppm is a bit high particularly coming up from a very respectable 5 ppm.>>
Because he's so new, I'm not sure what his normal behaviour is, but he's concerning me with the rapid breathing and fascination with the filter output and high level of activity, including sliding down the sides of the tank.
<<Sounds quite normal to me, Mercedes. Could easily have been a description of mine for the first few days that I had him.>>
While this could be normal, I'm concerned given my previous problem with velvet.  I should mention I lost a previous Betta in this tank who had a bad case of velvet (I took pity on him at the pet store because he was beautiful, but I could see then that his gills weren't closing properly so I knew it was a long shot -- treated him with Quick Cure but it was too late -- he only lasted two days).  
<<As you have probably discovered with Velvet, the telltale signs are critical to saving the fish. Once the infestation has manifested itself far enough to be “apparent”, it’s often too late to treat effectively.>>
I broke down the tank and sterilized everything (bleach solution), leaving it without a fish inhabitant for over a month.  Everything I've read tells me that velvet needs a host within 24 hours of replicating, and that the life cycle is max 14 days, and that it
doesn't like heat (kept this tank at 80F for 3 weeks before adding the new guy).  Should I be worried about velvet (he has iridescent blue-green colouring and I can't see anything that looks rust-coloured or reflective on him other than this colouring when I use a flashlight and magnifying glass) or is this more likely "curious about my new home" behaviour.
<<Based on what you’ve described, I would say it’s impossible for the parasite(s) to have survived the sterilizing/fallow-time. I certainly understand your concern what with your previous experience but, in my opinion, your fears are unnecessary.>>
Also, to get the nitrates down, I think I should give the UGF a thorough cleaning and vacuum the gravel.  Am I on track with this?
<<If you intend to keep the UGF, I would concur that a good cleaning is likely in order. Nothing wrong with these if you stay on top of the maintenance required of them but there are easier ways to go here.>>
The charcoal part of the filter is not in, and I'd like to put it back in, too.  If this is a good idea, when should I be doing all of this?  The new guy's just had quite a trip and he's not adjusted yet, but if I'm going to do a 20% water change or more to control the nitrates, I might as well take him out for a short bit and do the rest of the cleaning.  
<<Given the stress placed on your fish by moving him, I would clean the gravel with the water change and add the charcoal now. Leave the UGF for the time being but continue to monitor your nitrates. Let your Betta become more accustomed to his new surroundings, and you, before cleaning the plate.>>
I just don't want to stress him too much.  His breathing does slow sometimes (when he's not racing around checking out the new digs), but it still seems too rapid to be normal.
<<Consider adding some aquarium salt with the water change. I’m starting to sound like the proverbial “broken record” on this topic (for those old enough to remember what records are :) ) but I consider aquarium salt a ‘requirement’ with Bettas rather than an option. I can assure you that you’ll see a significant difference in his breathing and behavior in short order.>>
Thanks in advance for what I'm sure will be good advice.
<<You’re welcome, Mercedes. My best to you and your new pet. Enjoy the New Year!>>
Mercedes
<<Tom>>

Re: New Betta in 2.5 gal cycled tank breathing rapidly   12/31/06
Hi Tom,
<<Hi, again, Mercedes.>>
Thanks so much for your wisdom.  He seems to have relaxed quite a bit since yesterday.  I should clarify two things: my filter is actually a small volume model from Toms that can be placed under gravel, but is not a real UGF.  It has two-stage filtration and I had removed the charcoal.  The other is that I have already added the salt (non-iodized), which I had forgotten when taking the nitrate readings.  I had a "Eureka" moment this morning when I visualized the water test colour gauge, which shows darker shades of pink
for salt water at lower ppm.  I cleaned out the filter, put the charcoal back in and vacuumed the gravel yesterday in both tanks, and moved two of the live plants to the other tank.  The nitrate test came back at between 5 and 10 ppm for freshwater, which would be under 5 ppm for salt water.  I'm going to check again today and in a few days for stability.  If all is well, I'll revert to weekly nitrate testing and weekly cleanings.  In a 2.5 gal tank, how much water should I be changing weekly? I've read suggestions of 10 to 50%.
<<I would go no higher than 25% with the changes here. Anything in excess of about 30% should be reserved for problems with water parameters. Beyond that, all sounds quite good.>>
Also, I notice that when fresh water is added to the tank and a Betta is in it, tiny air bubbles attach themselves to him in various locations.  Since velvet is so hard to detect, I've used this as an indication that I may or may not have a problem, though it could be another parasite that's also not easy to spot.  
<<Whenever there’s a water change, gases along with oxygen are introduced into the tank. One of the reasons why we recommend against large water changes on a regular basis. In connection with this, the salt in the water increases surface tension resulting in smaller bubbles than you’d find in pure, fresh water. (A key ingredient to why protein fractionators work in marine tanks much more efficiently than they will in freshwater tanks.) Less air in the bubbles means they’re not as prone to rise quickly to the surface and will adhere to surfaces below including fish (organics have an affinity for air – another principle of protein skimming). Certainly not an issue unless you happen to be trying to closely observe for problem indicators, right?>>
This is not my preference as it's quite a bit of turbulence, which I understand is stressful for Mr. Betta. However, I'm happy to say that both of my guys had very few air bubbles attached to them yesterday after the water change, so I think all is well.  My tri-colour with the white and purple body, which easily shows velvet, is looking almost clean again and is back to blowing bubble nests.  (He came from the same location as the one with bad velvet, but was not as badly infested or affected).  Am I crazy?
<<Well, I’m not a “shrink” but I don’t think so. :) Sounds to me like you’re understandably concerned is all. Been there myself actually.>>
Again, thanks for your help.
<<Happy to do so, Mercedes. Tom>>

Re: New Betta in 2.5 gal cycled tank breathing rapidly   1/3/07
Hi Tom,
<<Happy New Year, Mercedes.>>
Thanks for that info.  
<<Happy to share.>>
Unfortunately, my worst fears were justified.  The velvet finally appeared on his body and fins 2 days ago.  
<<So much for my optimism.>>
I now understand why my LFS sent the new guy home with me in a methylene blue bath.  I thought they were just being careful, but now that I think of it, the other CTs from that shipment had what I now know are telltale signs of velvet (those little dark spots on the fins, even if you can't see the gold dust).   They saw something I didn't.  
<<Like sending your new puppy home in a body cast. Wonderful…>>
I'm treating with Jungle Velvet Guard, and the rapid breathing has stopped.  He's still eating (though I am feeding him one Bio-Gold pellet every two days right now, and will switch to frozen daphnia and krill to keep up the fibre as he's a bit constipated) and has become more active in the past 36 hours.  
<<Good.>>
I raised the temperature to 85 degrees as slowly as I could (it was 82 two days ago).   I understand temps that high weaken the parasite.  
<<To a degree (no pun) but the key to higher temperatures is really to speed up the life cycle of the parasite and hit the juveniles with the anti-parasitic med’s as quickly as possible. Ultimately less stress on the fish in more ways than one.>>
The tank is also surrounded by brown paper to keep out natural light (there is no hood light).  The next treatment will be tonight. Should I continue treating for 10 days (as I have read the lifecycle of velvet is the same as Ich -- 10 to 14 days), or would less be sufficient with such a high temperature?
<<Treat for the full 10 days, Mercedes. You’re correct about the lifecycle mimicking that of Ich. Not the only similarity, by the way. In propagation behavior, they’re nearly identical. Let’s leave nothing to chance here and follow the manufacturer’s instructions to the ‘T’.>>
Thanks, and Happy New Year!
Mercedes
<<Again, Happy New Year and good luck! Tom>>

Re: New Betta in 2.5 gal cycled tank breathing rapidly   1/4/07
Thanks Tom.  
<<You're welcome, Mercedes.>>
Now for another problem: nitrites were between 0.3 and 0.8 this morning, having dropped a bit from closer to 0.8 last night when I did the 25% water change for the meds.  I can only guess that the Jungle Labs nutroflavin is having an effect on the biological filter along with the other ingredients.  
<<Agreed.>>
I have double-dosed with Cycle (which I understand is not the best, but they claim the formula has been improved) twice since doing the 25% water change per Jungle Lab instructions.
<<I'll withhold comment until I research this, Mercedes. Things change in the hobby and I don't want to give an opinion based on old information. (Cycle used to be worthless but made big bucks purporting that it was the end-all, be-all of cycling products.)>>
I will check again tomorrow morning, and do another 25% change and re-dose with meds tomorrow night and add more Cycle the following morning.  (This is reminding me of taking pro-biotics after taking anti-biotics to help restore the good bacteria.)
<<Ain't that the truth! Think BIO-Spira (Marineland).>>
Is this enough to keep the nitrites from being too damaging?
<<"Any" nitrites are damaging. The key is to keep them to a minimum, or eliminated entirely.>>
I have also added another 1/4 tsp of salt to mitigate the nitrite effects.
Any thoughts?
<<Yep. Salt won't mitigate the effects of nitrites. Nitrites combine with hemoglobin in the blood. In effect, the blood is starved for oxygen. Displaced actually. Salt, by electrolytic effect, allows the gill tissue to take in oxygen more efficiently. Nitrites combine with the oxygen. Catch-22, if you will, if nitrites are in high presence. The upside is that your nitrite levels are >1. Salt "might" mitigate this to an extent, but don't wager your fish's life on it.>>
Thanks,
Mercedes
<<Good luck, Mercedes. Please, keep me posted. Tom>>

Re: New Betta in 2.5 gal cycled tank breathing rapidly    1/5/07
Hi Tom,
<<Hello, Mercedes.>>
Good news is that the velvet seems to be disappearing from Mr. Betta's fins, leaving them shredded, but hopefully they'll recover with time.  
<<I'm happy for both of you! The fins will regenerate/heal as time goes by with good conditions.>>
He's back to hanging out in the corner at the top of the tank, but still has an appetite.  The rapid breathing also is totally gone.  
<<He's been through a lot so I wouldn't be concerned about where he's hanging out as long as his appetite is good and the breathing has slowed and stabilized.>>
Are the nitrites high enough to make more of a water change tomorrow night, say 35%?  They're holding steady at 0.3 ppm, and nitrates are around 10.  (My other tank is 0,
0 and 5, so I know it's possible!)
<<The nitrite levels have to come down, Mercedes, so a larger water change is in order. If these, or ammonia levels, are detectable, they're too high. No such thing as safe levels of either.>>
I'm half way through the 5 day treatment cycle.
<<I'm betting you'll be happy when this is over. You're doing a great job of staying on top of this. Keep up the good work.>>
Thanks,
Mercedes
<<Any time, Mercedes. Tom>>

Re: New Betta in 2.5 gal cycled tank breathing rapidly    1/5/07
Thanks for your support, Tom.
<<No thanks necessary, Mercedes. You’re doing an excellent job.>>
My only concern with a larger water change is decreasing the effectiveness of the meds. The Jungle Labs container says 25% water change before re-dosing.  If I go higher, should I compensate by increasing the dose, or do the meds dissipate after 48 hours anyway?  I'm just not sure how stable this formula is.  I would be happy to do a 50% change to get the water parameters closer to normal if I thought it was OK.  
<<Let’s simplify this. A 50% change would require double the dose as with a 25% change – and I didn’t need a calculator for that, either – so why not go that way and decrease the chance of error. Where your nitrites are concerned, a little bigger will be better, anyway.>>
Next change is due at 11:30 pm EST tonight.
Thanks as usual,  Mercedes.
<<You’re welcome, as usual, Mercedes. Tom>>

Re: New Betta in 2.5 gal cycled tank breathing rapidly   1/8/07
Hi Tom,
<<Hi, Mercedes>>>
I thought you might be interested in this info from Jungle Labs:
Hello Mercedes,
Thank you for your inquiries about Jungle(r) products. We are happy that you have chosen our products to use in your aquarium to help you maintain the best possible environment for your fish and plants. Although the Nitrofurazone in the Velvet Guard(r) medication stays
active for about 4 days, but the other ingredients break down earlier. If it has been 48 hours since your last dose, you can go ahead an make the larger water change you are planning and just use a full dose again.
As the active ingredients break down, they can indeed produce some nitrogen by-products, which would explain your elevated nitrite
readings. They are not alarmingly high, though. Adding a little aquarium salt to the tank will help keep your Betta safer by giving
nitrites some competition for absorption into his body. An initial dose of ½ teaspoon of aquarium salt is a good idea. After the initial
dose, add only more salt whenever you make partial water changes and only enough to salt the amount of water you are changing.
Thank you for being a Jungle(r) customer. If you have any problems or need any other information, please do not hesitate to call our
Customer Resource Representatives at 1-800-357-7104 or e-mail us at info@junglelabs.com. And don't forget to check out Club Jungle at www.clubjungle.com. Check back regularly for tips and free samples!
Sincerely,
Karin Fairburn
Customer Resource Center Representative
Jungle Laboratories Corporation
<<Good of the nice folks at Jungle Labs to get back to you, Mercedes.>>
In light of this, would I be advised to do 50% changes every time?
<<I might argue with products, Mercedes, but not with manufacturers. I don’t see where 50% changes would prove to be a problem in this case.>>
Also, now that he's feeling a bit better, would a salt dip be a good idea to help with the parasites still on his body?
<<Nope. The parasites on his body are immune to treatment. In fact, even after bursting away from the body, they’re (largely) immune. (I’ve come across research that disputes this, to a small degree, but let’s not “split” little hairs.) For our purposes, the only stage that the “tomites” are vulnerable to treatment is after they’ve burst from the cysts at the bottom of the tank and are at the juvenile stage of development, i.e. searching for a “host”.>>
(I think I can finesse a very gentle transfer method using a ladle, so he won't be netted.  I would use only 4 c. of tank water, salted with 2 tsp of sea salt, dipping him for 5 to 30 minutes, depending on whether he shows signs of distress.  I can keep the water temperature stable using this volume.  I have used Epsom salt baths to treat constipation in the past, and was successful at not causing too much stress.  I had conditioned him to think it was a good idea being in a small container by feeding him a small part of a cooked pea when he was in there.  I haven't done that with this one yet.)
<<A well developed method, Mercedes, and I commend you. The problem is as I’ve mentioned. You can’t kill the little buggers while they’re attached to the fish or before they propagate and move about looking for a host to infest. Luckily, at that stage, salt, high heat, you-name-it, will do them in inclusive of not finding a host within a short time.>>>
Thanks,
Mercedes
<<You’re welcome, as always. Keep up the good work! Tom>>

Re: New Betta in 2.5 gal cycled tank breathing rapidly  1/9/07
<<Greetings, Mercedes.>>
Thanks for the advice, Tom.  
<<You’re welcome.>>
Here's the new problem: he's starting to flash and rub against things again, so I know the Velvet is still really bothering him.  
<<Sounds like it.>>
His tail is half covered, almost everything except for the tendrils (he's a CT) but they are decaying.  He still has Velvet on his body at the base of his fins and on his lower fins as well, though his tail seems most affected.  When I treated the other fish I had with formalin/malachite green (Quick Cure), the Velvet was gone from his body after 24 hours.  Was this a lucky coincidence, or evidence of an effective treatment? I suspect you'll say it was a coincidence.
<<No. Actually, I would call it effective treatment. On the flip side of the coin, we don’t know how resistant this strain of parasite might be. Could be that it’s more resistant than the last. Not all “black and white” I’m afraid.>>
Tomorrow night is day 10 of treatment.  I would think I need to continue treatment until those on his body dislodge at the very least, and then for 7 days or more after that.  Could this be with salt alone rather than meds?  
<<Yes.>>
I have read that Velvet's lifecycle is even longer than Ick's, so would 14 days with Velvet Guard, followed by 1/2 tsp of salt per gallon of water be appropriate?
<<Therapeutic levels of salt would be on the order of 2-3 tablespoons of salt per five gallons. I’d be looking at more like 3/4 tsps. per gallon.>>
I can move the live plants to another tank so I can treat with Quick Cure or an even higher concentration of salt.   I also have AquariSol.
<<Add the Aquarisol, with the higher salt concentration, at a daily dosage, per the recommendation, of 12 drops per 10 gallons. If possible, slowly raise the heat by a few degrees as well.>>
Should I just be patient, despite the nitrites, which are holding steady
at 0.3 ppm apparently because of the meds?  In light of what you've said below, I'm tempted to switch to salt alone and restore the carbon filter to eliminate the med and nitrite stress.
<<I would be tempted, also, Mercedes, but this fish has been infected for a week and a half. Let’s do this, add the carbon to get rid of the current medication, increase the temperature and salt level for a couple of days. Keep and eye on him and begin treating with the Aquarisol if there hasn’t been a noticeable difference. We can’t leave him infested much longer. I’m getting a bit concerned about secondary infection which is something we definitely don’t need right now…or ever.>>
Frustration is an understatement.
<<I’m with you on that! With acknowledgement to Mr. Einstein, we can’t keep doing the same thing and expect different results. We’ve got to break out of this “holding pattern” we’re in.>>
Cheers,
Mercedes
<<I needn’t tell you to keep me posted. My best. Tom>>

Re: New Betta in 2.5 gal cycled tank breathing rapidly  1/10/07
<<Greetings, Mercedes.>>
I have the following meds in my arsenal: MarOxy (not useful with this) melafix, PimaFix, tetracycline, a neutroflavine and povidone/colloid mixture (which is packaged as a fungus cure but actually treats bacterial infections rather than true fungus), and Maracyn one and two.
<<If this fish doesn’t make it, it sure won’t be your fault! :) >>
The carbon filter is in place, and the 25 watt Elite mini-heater is now at the max, changed from just ever so slightly below the max which gave a temperature of 82-83F.  I'm hopeful it will rise to 85F overnight.  
<<In either case, this should do well.>>
The tank is covered with brown paper on three sides (the only sides with natural light access).  I will cover the 4th side tomorrow morning.  I would do it tonight but the temperature might rise too quickly.  
<<I agree. Temperature “rises” aren’t nearly the problem that “drops” are but you’re reasoning is very sound.>>
I could also wrap the tank in a towel to get the temperature even higher if necessary.  
<<Shouldn’t be necessary here.>>
I have added 3/4 tsp of salt (raising the per gallon amount to 3/4 tsp).  
<<Excellent.>>
Also added some Cycle to help with the bio-filter (haven't managed to find the other product at any local FS as yet).  I will check for nitrites and nitrates tomorrow morning.    
<<Sounds good.>>
His appetite is still fine, and I'm feeding very lightly on a daily basis (e.g. one dried blood worm, one bio-gold pellet or a small serving of frozen krill -- he doesn't like the daphnia any more).
<<Daphnia isn’t bad with hot fudge and crushed walnuts but then we’ve got the “love handle” issue to contend with. Seriously, the regimen he’s on sounds fine and I’m glad he’s eating. A very good sign, actually.>>
Is this still too much?  
<<No. Right now, it’s a good “indicator” for you. Bettas tend to eat like they haven’t been fed in a week. If he goes off his food, it’ll be a potential signal that what we’re doing isn’t working.>>
I switched back to daily feeding when he got over the constipation.  Have I missed anything?
<<Every “i” and “t” is accounted for as far as I can tell, Mercedes. The rest, now, is going to depend on him. His own immune system, hopefully strong, will determine how this turns out. You’ve done everything, and more, that I can think of to give him the best possible chance.>>
Mercedes
<<Should go without saying but, please, keep me posted. Tom>>

Re: New Betta in 2.5 gal cycled tank breathing rapidly  1/11/07
Hi Tom,
<<Hello, Mercedes.>>
Nitrites are at 0.15 ppm and Nitrates are just above 5 ppm.  Temperature is
86F.  He's still hungry, eating well, and now in a totally black tank
enveloped in fleece.  
<<Sounds cozy! :) >>
9:30 EST will be 24 hours since the carbon filter went back in and the salt was elevated.  Can I use the nitrites as a measure of residual Velvet Guard?  
<<Presupposing all else is as it should be, yes.>>
I assume your two day salt therapy suggestion had two purposes: see how he does and let the old meds clear.  
<<Actually, the elevated salt levels can be maintained for a while, Mercedes. I’d like to go after this with a combination of the Aquarisol plus salt.>>
I strongly suspect I'm going to need the Aquarisol as he's still flashing like mad.
<<The elevated temperatures are going to start speeding things up. Lord willing, we’re going to start getting some positive results from your efforts.>>   
Would tomorrow morning (around 34 hours after carbon) be sufficient if nitrites have dropped yet again?  
<<This would be an appropriate amount of time. My approach here is to give him a bit of a break from being medicated with the Velvet Guard. Hard to qualify degrees of stress, though. I’ve got to think that the infestation is harder on him than the medication is at this point.>>
BTW, my Aquarisol is about 4 years old and the active ingredient is listed as zycosin (soluble copper salts), and the package says it is safe for plants, and says nothing about removing the carbon filter.  This seems odd.  Any thoughts?
<<The adsorption of copper by activated carbon is poor (at best) to nil. It needs to be removed by the use of a Poly-Filter, CupriSorb by Seachem or by neutralizing the copper with an appropriate water conditioner which can, then, be mechanically filtered out. Water changes prior to removal will facilitate the process for obvious reasons.>>
Cheers,
Mercedes
<<Stay the course, Mercedes. Be talking. Tom>>

Re: New Betta in 2.5 gal cycled tank breathing rapidly
Hi Tom,
<<Good afternoon, Mercedes.>>
Update: he's stopped flashing and rubbing, the velvet seems to be retreating slowly, and his appetite has improved!  (He's now eating daphnia again.) He is swimming around like a curious Betta again.  No bubble nests, but I think they're in his future.  There are a few new holes in his fins, but I'm confident they will heal.  I'll watch for a few days and add some melafix if they don't start to heal.
<<Nothing I like more than hearing good news! The holes in the fins will heal with a bit of time and the good water conditions you provide. When things settle out a bit, I’d still like to see you keep a “maintenance” level of the salt going for him. He’ll be happier for it and we might just stop something before it ever gets started.>>
I diverged from plan A by using Quick Cure (2 drops plus a very little bit more as the water volume is just over 2 gallons).  It almost immediately stopped the rubbing and flashing.  
<<Very glad to hear this.>>
I will switch to Aquarisol in a few days, restoring the carbon and waiting 36 hours to clear the Quick Cure if the remainder of the velvet has not dropped off his body.  
<<The Aquarisol is another item that you might consider keeping at a “maintenance” level if even for a short while. The weekly dosage can be a great preventative measure.>>
Save the holes in his fins, he's acting like a healthy fish with some annoying (to me, anyway) velvet on his body.  Huge improvement!
<<Wonderful news, Mercedes. It should go without saying that I’m very happy for both of you!>>
As usual, I'll keep you posted.
<<I’d like that.>>
Cheers,
Mercedes
<<My best to you. Tom>>

Re: New Betta in 2.5 gal cycled tank breathing rapidly   1/25/07
Hi Tom,
<<Hi, Mercedes. Running a little behind. Sorry.>>
Finally, I can report almost 100% success: almost all the velvet is gone, nitrites are back to zero (this happened about 5 days ago after hovering at 0.1 for a few days, having dropped from much higher with water changes and removal of Jungle Velvet Guard using charcoal).  
<<Wonderful!>>
Nitrates are hovering between 5 and 10, and ammonia is 0, of course.  As soon as the nitrites dropped to zero, his fins started to heal and his behaviour normalized.  
<<Also, good!>>
I will continue to use Aquarisol daily until all the velvet is gone, and then for 7 days after that.  From there on, as you suggested, I will treat weekly, and use salt.  His fins are almost totally healed, his appetite is great, and he's behaving like a normal curious Betta again.
<<If he weren't a fish I'd kiss him on the lips! :) >>
This has been a struggle.
<<Give yourself a huge pat on the back, Mercedes!>>
Should there be a next time, it will be Quick Cure and Aquarisol to the rescue, I hope.  
<<Once is enough. ;) >>
Anyone interested in some Velvet Guard?  Going cheap!  
<<Hmmm... No takers, I'm afraid.>>
While the acriflavine may be helpful, the nitrifiers were really unhelpful.
<<So much going on with med's, Mercedes. Resistance, et. al. Almost scary...>>
Thanks again, Tom.  It's comforting to know there's somewhere to turn in situations like these.
Mercedes
<<You did all the work! I was just here for moral support...mostly. Glad to hear everything's going well. Tom>>

Betta not swimming    12/26/06
Hi, Merry Christmas
  I rescued my friends Betta yesterday~ I'm not sure if I want to continue my friendship with her! she had her Betta in a small 1 gallon tank in filthy water probably never changed it..
<Mmm... shades of Pliny the Elder, our own Abe Lincoln's paraphrasing... "If a (sic) man would be unkind to his parrot, than why not his country...?">
the water was dark brown. Its a miracle the fish is still alive! when I first looked inside it just laid there at the bottom of the tank like a worm I didn't notice it coming up for air in the 10 min. I was there. So I asked my friend to let me take and sure enough she didn't care one bit.
<What does such apathy, uncaring indicate about the keeper?>
  I brought Mr. Betta home and I'm cycling his brand new 6 gallon tank with heater and all the extras however the poor little guy is not responding very well and I'm scared to put him in his new tank because since I brought him home I placed him in a little tank with fresh tap water with a few drops of tap safe 3 pebbles of salt and a little stress defense (bio Safe) he is barely breathing he barely comes up for air but struggles he is very skinny but will refuse to eat.
<Takes time...>
Although he must have eaten in my friends house because this morning his tank had some excrement. I'm thinking he has some bacterial infection from not having had his water changed maybe other conditions.... not sure. He is really sad looking he barely moves.
<Again... you need to be patient here>
  I don't know what to do to bring him back to health! Please help me... his new home is waiting but I'm afraid he wont have the energy to swim to the top to get air so I've decide to not put him in yet.
<If this system is, can be cycled quickly... I would move this Betta. Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/bettasysart.htm
and the linked files above where you lead yourself. Bob Fenner>

Re: Betta not swimming   12/27/06
Dear Bob,
  Good morning and thank you for your reply! I agree with Lincolns quote however, as Alice Walker said "Animals can communicate quite well.  And they do.  And generally speaking, they are ignored." and this little guy was almost ignored to death.
  <Sorry to realize>
Back to my rescue story..
  Yesterday I felt the water he is was in was very cold so in order to get it to warm up I wrapped a heating pad around the bowl and he is moving/slithering more but at the bottom of the bowl he still rarely comes up for air but I'm excited about just seeing him move once in a while. His temp is about 75F that's the warmest I could get it with the pad.
<Again... I would "pour" all the existing water from the bowl into the tank... turn the heater on... raise this to 80-82 F.>
But, it did fluctuate a bit during the night when I checked this morning it was colder. I agree with you about changing him to the cycled tank with the exception that he is so weak I'm afraid that he will not get to the top for air and if I pour out some water the filter stops working what do you recommend?
<Moving this animal... now>
other than that I have not tried feeding him again. When do you think I should try and what? I pretty much have all different types of Betta foods from Hikari...bloodworm's, Tubifex worms, Daphnia...
<Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/betfdgfaqs.htm
Bob Fenner>

Re: Betta not swimming getting worse!   12/28/06
Emergency!
<<I’ve been following it, Sabrina. Tom with you this time.>>
Thank you again for your response. I put him into the tank but he is not able to reach the top for air. I have him in a six gallon tank now with warm temperature at 82F.
<<Good temperature for him. Now, lower the water level as a first step. If he can’t get to the “top”, bring the top to him.>>
What should I do? I’ve read Bettas can literally drown if they can’t reach the top for air.
<<If there’s insufficient oxygen in the water, this is true. Warm water doesn’t hold as much oxygen as cool water does. Additionally, if there isn’t enough surface area for appropriate “oxygen exchange” – primarily where oxygen enters the water – the animal could be “starving” for air. Two things you can do. Add aquarium salt which will assist the gills in taking in oxygen from the water. A ratio of one tablespoon per five gallons of water is the way to go. (You’ll have to do a little “calculating” but make sure you do this by mixing it with fresh water. Don’t add salt directly to the tank.) Second thing, find a way to agitate the surface of the tank’s water either by adding an airstone or by letting the filter disrupt the surface. I recommend both. (My Betta is in a 20-gallon tank and never – that I’ve observed – gulps for air. Aquarium salt and surface agitation.)>>
Do you think he might have swim bladder disorder?
<<Not likely. This would show itself by the fish being “up-ended” in some fashion, i.e. nose up or nose down. This poor guy has been neglected and needs to be “freshened up”. The aquarium salt will go a long way in doing this.>>
I was reading about belly sliders and he seems to have the symptoms described for that condition. Should I medicate him?
<<The “condition” (‘belly sliders’) you’re suggesting is the result of a physiological abnormality or may be a result of over-feeding. The former is something you can’t do anything about and the latter is something that only you can control. Medicating this fish isn’t an option. This is going to be strictly hands-on attention. You’re doing fine so far and, frankly speaking, I applaud your efforts. Bless you for your concern for this fish. Best regards. Tom>>

Re: Betta not swimming getting worse!   12/28/06
TOM,
<<Hello, Sabrina.>>
Thank you VERY MUCH. OK, that's all the caps I’ll use for now.
<<Fair enough…>>
OK... I lowered the tank water as much as I possibly can with out having the filter stop working. I have him in an Eclipse 6 and if I take out too much water the filter stops working.
<<Understood.>>
I purchased an air pump and its working fine although it is making more movement in the water. Hopefully he doesn't stress out too much.
<<You should be able to dial back on the amount of output from the pump if it looks like he’s getting bounced around too much. Right now we’re operating under the premise that his breathing may be labored so I’d be more concerned about getting the water oxygenated than some turbulence in the tank.>>
He still can’t get to his food because he can’t jump that far up and he still can’t swim.
<<As Bob suggested in an earlier post, give this some time. More often than not, when a fish is “under the weather”, food isn’t a high priority.>>
Although he does seem just a little bit more energetic... I hope he recuperates soon this is taking a lot of time and costing me a few fights with my fiancé...my rescue efforts are getting to him.
<<Perhaps he’s feeling excluded from this. Have you invited him to assist?>>
I'm not going to medicate. Thanks for the advise.
<<No problem.>>
But do you think that if he doesn't eat in a few days I take him back to the bowl?
<<Not a good idea to move him, Sabrina. On a stress level, this ranks up there with becoming a predator’s dinner. What may have to be done is to find a food that he can’t resist. My Betta goes nuts for thawed brine shrimp…though he’s not incredibly sharp on the concept that the shrimp won’t float like his flake food does. Might be an option to look at in your case.>>
Have you ever seen fish recuperate from ammonia poisoning?
<<Ammonia poisoning isn’t necessarily a “death sentence”. It can certainly be fatal but this depends on the degree of exposure and consequent damage that it may have caused. I will say, however, that, in the cases I’ve seen, the fish didn’t live as long as they might have had they not been exposed.>>
And lastly, do you think the light from the tank should be off as he is recuperating?
<<This wouldn’t be a bad idea at all, Sabrina. Everything you can do to ease the stress will help. Keep up the good work! Tom>>

Re: Betta not swimming getting worse!   12/29/06
Thank you Tom,
<<Happy to assist, Sabrina.>>
Just an update, no need to respond.
<<Responses go not only to the writer, Sabrina, but to the FAQ's on our site as well. Sometimes something "small" can make a big difference when folks are searching for answers.>>
He is getting to the top of the tank today. WAhooooooo! He ate a few blood worms and I had to turn off the filter while he ate so that the food would stay in one place so that he could grab it.
<<Great news, Sabrina. I don't know that this means he's turned the corner but it's the best he's done since your first post.>>
He is still not swimming but rather jumping (that's the only way I can explain it).
<<Interesting. Bettas are very capable jumpers and use this to survive in their natural habitat by launching themselves from one pool of water to the next. That's where their labyrinth organ comes in handy since sometimes they fall short of their destination and must wriggle their way over land to get to water. It may take a while longer for him to completely acclimate and recognize that taking a flyer out of his new home isn't necessary.>>
He is however looking better. I'll keep you posted. Thank you again.
<<You're most welcome and I do hope you keep us posted, Sabrina. Enjoy your weekend. Tom>>  

Treating a Betta in the early stages of dropsy   12/17/06
Hello,
<Hi there>
I have done much research on the internet about what to do for my sick Betta, but I would also really appreciate your expert opinion.  Your advice is always the best.
A few days ago I noticed that my 2.5 year old
<This is quite aged for this species...>
female Betta had a swollen belly, and thinking it was constipation, I fasted her for two days.  She pooped, but was still swollen.  Yesterday morning I saw that she was starting to pinecone slightly.  I know this is a sign of dropsy and that dropsy is very difficult to treat, but I read that I could combine Maracyn I and Maracyn II and a little Epsom salt.  
<Mmm, yes... though I prefer Neosulfex (Neomycin and sulfa drugs combined in one product) instead of the two Mardel antibiotics here>
She is still somewhat active, has an appetite, and is swimming without problems (though she isn't moving around too much).
Wendy (my fish) is in an unfiltered 2.5 gallon tank, heated to 80 F.
I put a black sweatshirt around the tank so that the light won't bother her, which she seems to prefer.  Per instructions I found on healthybetta.com, I diluted 1 packet of both medicines in 10 tsp of water.  then, I added 2.5 tsp of each medicine mixture to the (freshly cleaned) tank.  I have been told to add an additional 1 tsp of each medicine daily, and am planning on doing a 100% water change every other day.
Do you think this has a chance of succeeding?
<Yes>
How long can I safely medicate her for?
<Two weeks>
What else can I do?
<Mmm, consider switching to other antibiotics... introducing these in the food if the fish is eating>
I was told that Kanacyn is a more effective medicine, but can't get a hold of it.
<Mmm, try the etailers (on the Net) with the term Kanamycin Sulfate>
  I am also wondering about Epsom salt baths - is this a good idea, and how can I do it safely?
<Better just to have the Epsom present in the water here>
How much Epsom salt is safe to add to the 2.5 tank?
<About a teaspoon>
I don't want to stress her out more than necessary.
Thank you so much.  This fish means a lot to me and I will do whatever I can to save her.
Julia
<Bob Fenner>

Please Help Irrie Frecklenose <Betta>!   12/14/06
I have a betta, Irrie Frecklenose (he was iridescent colored and had 3 little "freckles" over his snout, when I got him.).  He's about 2 years old. He's my company on my desk at work.  He chases my finger around his tank and flairs up at me.  He usually has a lot of "tude" and is always more than ready to eat (he flutters at me in the mornings until I feed him).  I feed him the little beta pellet thingies about 4 a day, and he usually eats them all.
<So far so good>
Yesterday, he was not looking well.  He was pale and laying at the bottom of his bow (not to unusual for him, really), but he was more listless.  I changed his water, and he seemed to perk up a little, and it looked like some of his color was coming back.  Today, he's still not looking good.  
He's still real pale and sort of dull looking, almost a pale pink.  He's not eating and not swimming around much.  It looks like he's having trouble "breathing".  He wont chase my finger.
I know he's old, but is he dying?
<Hopefully not>
Is there anything I can do for him to help him get better?
<Perhaps a water change... elevating temperature>
I didn't see anything on his scales that was out of the ordinary like a fungus (he's just really pale).  His water is clean and his bowl and marbles are clean too.  I always use really hot water when I clean his bowl.  I try to use room temperature water (tap) and I use those beta water drops in the water first.   I saw something mentioned about salt.
  Should I put some in his bowl.
<Perhaps>
It holds about 3 pints of water.
I am hoping he holds out in time for me to help him in the morning.  Thank you in advance!  If I sent this twice, sorry, I was having an issue with my email!
<We have webmail troubles as well>
Karen & Irrie
<Do you have water quality test gear? It may be that your Betta is just suffering from an anomaly... lack of cycling... Marbles aren't useful substrates... Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/bettasysart.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Betta fish has growth on body, BobF has no ESP   12/6/06
WWM Crew;  
<Yo!>
I’ve had a blue male betta fish for about 1 ½ years now—completely healthy, active, good eater, good color, etc.  A few days ago, I noticed a fairly large growth (about the size of a pea) at the base of his body, near where his back fin starts.  Tumor?   
<Maybe>
Any information and remedy would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks—love your site!
Andrew
<... Where's the boeuf? Andrew... what about some info. re your Betta's "home?"... Maintenance, nutrition... Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/bettadiseases.htm
and the linked files above... Bob Fenner, not the Amazing Kreskin>

Very Sick Betta   12/6/06
Hi,
About a month to a month and a half ago I noticed a dark purplish spot on the outside of my bettas lower lip.  At first I thought that maybe it had been there all along since it does match his darker purple tones and I just hadn't noticed it before.  But then it began to grow.  Now, his entire lower lip and the inside of his upper lip are all purple and swollen.  And just today I noticed that on one side of his face in the area between his mouth and his eye is also swollen and looks red and raw.  The swelling is even starting to cover his eye a bit on that side.  I've looked at a number of websites and can't seem to find any disease that matches his symptoms.  Do you have any idea what the problem might be and what I can do to help him?
<Mmm, reads like something tumorous... perhaps directly genetically determined... Unfortunately, other than the "usual" good water quality and nutritional input, there is little of likely utility to "do" here.>
Thank you so much in advance for your help,
Lynn
P.S. I don't know if it'll help but I guess I should mention that my betta had a very persistent case of fin & tail rot when I got him back in August.  It wasn't long, maybe a week or two, after he finally seemed to be over the fin & tail rot that I first noticed the purple spot on his lip.  He still seems to be okay as far as the rot  goes though and his  fins and tail have already grown back completely so I don't know if the two situations are at all linked.
<Perhaps>
I should probably also mention that aside from his physical symptoms he doesn't act sick at all.  He's eating very well and still swims about actively.
<Please do read re others Betta health issues: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/bettadiseases.htm
and the linked files above. Perhaps something ameliorative will "jump out", become live to your conscience as a consequence. Bob Fenner>

Betta with ich; Betta placement in community tank  12/2/06
Hi Crew,
<Hello and welcome back!>
Once again I find myself returning to your comprehensive website - I have been reading through articles and FAQs, but am a little confused due to contradicting answers etc.
<Can happen.  Fish care, illness, etc. is not an exact science, but rather an "art" in the sense that some things can be accomplished differently...>
Yesterday I bought an extremely sick Betta from a pretty bad pet store. I know, not meant to buy sick fish - but he was cowering under a plant, and is absolutely covered with ich, and I thought that he would die for sure if left there, since the store was not treating and not even aware that their fish were sick! (There were even goldfish literally piled into a corner and resting on top of one another - very unnatural).
<You did a good thing, trying to save this poor Betta! At least now he's got a fighting chance...>
I have placed the Betta in a (previously cycled, though I suppose the medication will kill this)...
<Yes, generally medication kills a cycle>
...10 gal heated, filtered quarantine tank with a teaspoon of salt per 5 gals and ich medication - formaldehyde and malachite green.
<*Very harsh* medications - do keep a close eye on your Betta to make sure he isn't suffering ill effects.>
Even fed him some mosquito larvae from our pond, which he ate, and although he is absolutely covered in ich he is fairly active.
<Live food can transmit all sorts of parasites, diseases to fish; better to invest in frozen (and purified) bloodworms, or mysis shrimp, or even a quality pellet such as the ones made by Hikari or Spectrum New Life.>
Does all sound right so far?
<See above.>
Before purchasing this Betta I was planning on setting up a new Walstad style 20 gal planted tank. Before buying the Betta I was thinking of having a school of 6 Corydoras, possibly 2 Otocinclus, some fairy shrimp (I think these are native to Australia and grow to an inch long - not sure as I have been unable to find much information on them) and a few male and female guppies, which I wished to breed as I have never done this before. I was thinking of starting with 2 males and 6 females and going from there. Would it be possible to keep the Betta with this combination? I have read in your articles that Bettas are not compatible with guppies, but then in FAQs it was stated that pairing them with fancy guppies would be okay. Also, I was told on another forum that if I kept the Betta with this combination he would eat the baby shrimp and guppies and in effect be population control. What do you think? Am I courting disaster? If so with the guppies, would the Betta be okay with the other fish I mentioned?
<Honestly, in keeping Bettas in community tanks, so much depends on the Betta's individual personality.  Some are more aggressive, and may eat the shrimp and/or fry, and some are quite timid, and could be picked on by the sometimes aggressive male livebearers.  I personally choose to keep Bettas individually in 2-3 gal. heated and filtered tanks - provided with adequate decorations and plants, they seem to enjoy they little "fiefdoms".  Another consideration which has led me to the decision to keep Bettas singly is their love of warm tropical waters - 82 degrees F is ideal - and that's on the high-end of acceptable for many other tropical fish (and simply not OK for some species).  All the livestock you mention above should be able to tolerate water that warm, but again, it is on the high-end of the spectrum.  Were it me, I'd invest in a 3 gal. Eclipse for the Betta, and build my community aquarium without him.  You can certainly try what you are proposing, but I cannot promise success...
With regard to the Betta and ich, do monitor him closely for signs of medicine toxicity.  So long as he's eating and swimming, and you've said he is, then I wouldn't be concerned and would continue the course of medication according to the directions.  The salt should also help. Be prepared to do a complete water change if the fish starts suffering.  There are several non-medicinal alternatives for treating ich, one of which includes raising the temperature slowly (a degree a day)...this will speed up the lifecycle of the parasite (ich), and when used in conjunction with water changes, can effectively eliminate the problem.
Thank you for all your great information and help,
Emma
<Good luck with your Betta, and kudos to you for helping him! Jorie>

Re: Sick Betta  - 12/08/06
Hi Jorie,
<Hi Emma - sorry for the delay, I'm immersed in law school finals at the moment...>
Sorry about that - I will be sure to check the FAQ for lost replies from now on.
<No need to apologize - you didn't know!>
In regards to my little Betta, he seems to have improved a lot since I wrote to you.
<Excellent.>
Almost all his ich is gone, and the redness in his fins is also fading (I later discovered he had fin rot). I'm unsure though as to whether the fins are still rotting away. It is obvious in some of them - the tips are white (and previously with a red tip), but then in others, half way up the fin itself, small holes developed. They don't seem to have spread all that quickly, so I'm hoping that it has stopped. I suppose only time will tell.
<Do be sure to keep his water uber-clean; poor environmental conditions are most often times the cause of fin rot.  Also, although there is some disagreement on the issue, I do like to recommend MelaFix, in conjunction with good husbandry, to help promote fin regrowth and help prevent secondary infection.>
Other than that, he is still eating well (I have switched to dried Betta food) and now he is starting to spread out his fins instead of clamping them, and is very interested in what I am doing when I'm around the tank. He's turning out to be a very pretty fish, and I have named him Hieronymus (after the artist, Bosch).
<These are wonderful signs! Bettas truly are resilient fish; I'm so glad you took the time/initiative to save this poor little guy!  I'm sure he will reward you by being a marvelous companion...>
I have a different question now about the community tank (though I am erring more and more towards housing him separately) because when I was at the LFS today to buy plants, I also picked up three heavily pregnant feeder Gambusia.
<Commonly known as "Mosquitofish".
I just can't help it - I feel so sorry for the little guys. My question is, just HOW aggressive are they (I've read that they are aggressive, but there seems to be very little information on the web about them) and would I be able to keep them with Guppies and Corys? Do you think they would bully these fish, or perhaps leave them alone?
<I've not kept Mosquitofish myself, but from what I know, they are pretty aggressive.  I would definitely NOT put the betta in the tank with these guys, and the guppies and/or cories may be subject to attack as well (especially the guppies, if they are of the fancy long-finned variety). If you want to try, I'd suggest keeping a very close eye on the situation, providing lots of cover in the tank, and be ready to move the bullies to their own tank, if need be...>
And also, were I to house the Betta with them (and if he did not attack him), do you think it is likely that they will nip his fins?
<I think the chances of this are pretty good...>
I know it very much depends on the fish, but I just wanted to know what you thought.
<I'd keep the betta separate, and see how things go with the combo of Mosquitofish + guppies + cories.  Be sure all fish are able to eat, as well; this can be a problem with the aggressive mosquitoes.  Do be ready with "Plan B", though...>
Also, with the raising heat + water changes method of treating ich, what do you raise the temperature to, and how much water would you change each day? I am very interested in a friendlier method, not just because it would stress the fish less, but because I am looking to fully plant my tanks, and I think this would be far gentler to the plants (as opposed to ripping them out each time the tank is treated).
<Here's a very helpful article on the "how to's" of treating freshwater ich w/ salt and/or heat (i.e., hypersalinity):
http://www.kokosgoldfish.com/IchPrevention.html
The guppies should be quite tolerant of added salt, but do watch the cories closely, as they will be less so.>
Thank you so much for all your help so far,
Emma
<You're welcome.  I applaud your instinct to want to save all the fish kept in the horrendous LFS, but you must be sure you can properly keep/care for the fish you bring home, or else you'll be creating a whole new set of problems... Good luck, Jorie>

Betta with ich; Betta placement in community tank  12/8/06
Hi Crew, <Hello and welcome back!> Once again I find myself returning to your comprehensive website - I have been reading through articles and FAQs, but am a little confused due to contradicting answers etc. <Can happen.  Fish care, illness, etc. is not an exact science, but rather an "art" in the sense that some things can be accomplished differently...> Yesterday I bought an extremely sick Betta from a pretty bad pet store. I know, not meant to buy sick fish - but he was cowering under a plant, and is absolutely covered with ich, and I thought that he would die for sure if left there, since the store was not treating and not even aware that their fish were sick! (There were even goldfish literally piled into a corner and resting on top of one another - very unnatural). <You did a good thing, trying to save this poor Betta! At least now he's got a fighting chance...> I have placed the Betta in a (previously cycled, though I suppose the medication will kill this)... <Yes, generally medication kills a cycle> ...10 gal heated, filtered quarantine tank with a teaspoon of salt per 5 gals and ich medication - formaldehyde and malachite green. <*Very harsh* medications - do keep a close eye on your Betta to make sure he isn't suffering ill effects.> Even fed him some mosquito larvae from our pond, which he ate, and although he is absolutely covered in ich he is fairly active. <Live food can transmit all sorts of parasites, diseases to fish; better to invest in frozen (and purified) bloodworms, or Mysis shrimp, or even a quality pellet such as the ones made by Hikari or Spectrum New Life.> Does all sound right so far? <See above.> Before purchasing this Betta I was planning on setting up a new Walstad style 20 gal planted tank. Before buying the Betta I was thinking of having a school of 6 Corydoras, possibly 2 Otocinclus, some fairy shrimp (I think these are native to Australia and grow to an inch long - not sure as I have been unable to find much information on them) and a few male and female guppies, which I wished to breed as I have never done this before. I was thinking of starting with 2 males and 6 females and going from there. Would it be possible to keep the Betta with this combination? I have read in your articles that Bettas are not compatible with guppies, but then in FAQs it was stated that pairing them with fancy guppies would be okay. Also, I was told on another forum that if I kept the Betta with this combination he would eat the baby shrimp and guppies and in effect be population control. What do you think? Am I courting disaster? If so with the guppies, would the Betta be okay with the other fish I mentioned? <Honestly, in keeping Bettas in community tanks, so much depends on the Betta's individual personality.  Some are more aggressive, and may eat the shrimp and/or fry, and some are quite timid, and could be picked on by the sometimes aggressive male livebearers.  I personally choose to keep Bettas individually in 2-3 gal. heated and filtered tanks - provided with adequate decorations and plants, they seem to enjoy they little "fiefdoms".  Another consideration which has led me to the decision to keep Bettas singly is their love of warm tropical waters - 82 degrees F is ideal - and that's on the high-end of acceptable for many other tropical fish (and simply not OK for some species).  All the livestock you mention above should be able to tolerate water that warm, but again, it is on the high-end of the spectrum.  Were it me, I'd invest in a 3 gal. Eclipse for the Betta, and build my community aquarium without him.  You can certainly try what you are proposing, but I cannot promise success... With regard to the Betta and ich, do monitor him closely for signs of medicine toxicity.  So long as he's eating and swimming, and you've said he is, then I wouldn't be concerned and would continue the course of medication according to the directions.  The salt should also help. Be prepared to do a complete water change if the fish starts suffering.  There are several non-medicinal alternatives for treating ich, one of which includes raising the temperature slowly (a degree a day)...this will speed up the lifecycle of the parasite (ich), and when used in conjunction with water changes, can effectively eliminate the problem. Thank you for all your great information and help, Emma <Good luck with your Betta, and kudos to you for helping him! Jorie>

Concerning a two year old, male betta.  11/18/06
Dear WWM Crew:
<<Hi, Lillian. Tom>>
I have been researching Betta health on your website recently, but there are very few people who write in with the issues I've been seeing with 'Fish'. After changing his water yesterday he began floating straight up and down near the top of his jar. He has done this before but never for this long without any movement at all. I do not have a heater in his tank but about thirty minutes ago added warmer water to see if this would help with his lethargy. (The water temperature was at 66 F and I warmed it to 77 F.)
<<Just enough information to get into trouble, I’m afraid. Fish can “tolerate” increases in water temperature at a faster rate than they can tolerate decreases but this is still too much, too fast. Bettas do best at temperatures in the low-80’s but this needs to be accomplished in a controlled, stable fashion.>>
At the moment I've moved him into the bathroom where there is a wall heater, in hopes to keep the water warm. I am curious if this behavior is common with a fish that is not in a warm enough tank?
<<Assuming ‘Fish’ has been kept at about 66F all along, you’d have noticed this long before now if it were temperature-related behavior.>>
I have also noticed of late (mainly the last month or so) that Fish has been turning white around his front bottom fins and a little on his head. I have checked and this is not slimy or fuzzy, which I read might indicate a fungus.
<<It could…>>
He is almost two years old and I am fairly sure from the reading I have done on your site that this is most likely from age, but I am still concerned. Is this common in older Bettas?
<<One of the first signs of “old age” in Bettas is the loss of coloration, Lillian, generally coupled with loss of appetite and lethargy.>>
Or could this be another issue?
<<It’s likely that the loss of color and the “floating” are indications that ‘Fish’ is approaching his “time”. The longevity of farm-bred Bettas isn’t what it used to be, unfortunately. For the future, Bettas shouldn’t be kept in “jars”. They need to be in tanks of at least two and a half gallons, preferably larger. They also need heaters to keep the water temperature at 80-84F. (Not unknown for some Betta owners to keep their pets at closer to 90F very successfully.) The amount of “misinformation” about keeping these particular fish could fill a book so, please, continue to research our site for accurate information on how to care for Bettas.>>
Sincerely,
Lillian Bourland
<<Tom>>