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| FAQs on Betta
Systems 6 Related Articles:
Betta Systems,
Improved (Better?) Products for
Bettas! Anabantoids/Gouramis
& Relatives,
Betta
splendens/Siamese
Fighting Fish, Betta Diseases,
Improved (Better?) Products
for Bettas!,
Related FAQs: Betta Systems 1,
Betta Systems 2,
Betta Systems 3,
Betta Systems 4,
Betta Systems 5, Ammonia, Nitrite,
Nitrate,
Nitrogen Cycling, & Bettas in General,
Betta ID/Varieties,
Betta
Behavior, Betta Compatibility,
Betta Selection, Betta
Feedings, Betta Reproduction, Betta Disease,
"What you doin'? Dying.... Oh, me too." |
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Betta Bungles 9/5/08
Hi WWM,
<Hello,>
I'm a very new and
very anxious Betta owner. I actually have only had my Betta, from the local pet
store for four days and am a bit worried about him. When I got him, he was kept
in this little glass jar next to countless other male Bettas.
<The standard
way they are sold. But do understand that they cannot easily be kept this way,
and arguably shouldn't be kept this way at all. Like ALL fish, they need clean
water. If you keep a Betta in a bowl or jar, you have to replace most of that
water at least once a day. On top of that you need to make sure that the old
water matches the new water in terms of pH, hardness, and temperature. Finally,
the water needs to be warm (around 25 degrees Celsius) and unless you have a
room kept at that temperature (which would be pretty darn hot!) the bowl will
need an electric heater. Consequently, for virtually all aquarists, and
definitely all inexperienced aquarists, Bettas are best kept in regular tanks
with filters and heaters. The tank needn't be huge, 18 litres/5 gallons being
ample for a single Betta, and leaving space enough for a few snails or shrimps.>
He is a red and blue mix and very eccentric. I only have the little bowl for him
right now, but am picking up a one gallon bowl as soon as possible, I can't
support a full tank as I live in a college dorm.
<I hate saying this, but you
can't keep this fish. A one-gallon bowl is too small for the reasons outlined
above. You won't be able to keep him warm enough, and maintaining good water
quality will be next to impossible. Please understand that a Betta is a fish,
not a pet rock, and has requirements for health. If you ignore them, the animal
will suffer and eventually die. There's no two ways about this.>
Seraphim has
been very lethargic, hanging out at the bottom of his bowl only coming up for
air, and only just began eating two days ago.
<Likely too cold. Bettas are
tropical fish, and need tropical heat. That means 25 C (about 77 F). It is
extremely unlikely a dorm room will be maintained this 24 hours a day, 365 days
a year. As the fish is cold, its metabolism is slow, so all its processes, such
as feeding and behaviour and immune response will be slower than they should be.
Eventually, it will sicken and die. It can't extract essential nutrition
properly from its food, and its immune system can't combat opportunistic
infections.>
Today, I noticed that he has been listing to one side and white
splotches have grown on his
chin and behind the gills.
<Here we go... this
is almost certainly Fungus and/or Finrot. These are opportunistic infections
caused by microbes that ordinarily do no harm (and actually much good) in
healthy tanks. A combination of poor water quality and low temperature will
depress the fish's immune system and damage tissues, opening them up to
infections from outside. These microbes can then take advantage of the lack of
immune response to feed on the tissues in the fish. Death inevitably follows
without treatment and improvement in living conditions.>
In addition, his
tail is always clumped, almost twisted. Rarely are his fins spread out, although
I suspect that it may be due to the cramped spaces.
<He's too weak.>
Even
more alarming, he banged his head repeatedly against the side of the seashell I
placed in with him so he could play with it.
<With the exception of the
(apparently very smart) Mormyridae, fish don't appear to play. So try and think
like a fish, not a person! What fish need is healthy living conditions first,
and then a complex environment with hiding places, swimming space, and
structures to explore for food. But right now, these are secondary to water
quality.>
I made sure it had been cleaned with hot water and it has been dry
for close to two months before that, in an airtight environment.
<All fine
and dandy, but not enough.>
I switch his water 25% and 75% on alternate days,
making sure to used the water conditioner to rid the room temperature tap water
of chlorine.
<Not good enough. Have you check the ammonia level in the bowl?
I bet it's pretty high.>
His bowl sits right under my lamp at night when I do
work and it heats the water up that way.
<Nope, doesn't work. The heat from a
lamp only warms the surface, and without circulation, the bottom stays cold.
Moreover, this is an incredibly expensive way to (try to) warm up the tank,
wasting money. Repeat after me: tropical fish come from the tropics, tropical
fish come from the tropics.>
Is there anything I should know before I go to
the local Petco tomorrow?
<An aquarium with a heater and a filter. Period,
end of debate.>
I have read that Maracyn I and II are helpful against fungal
infections.
<Yes they are. But these only fix the infection; they don't stop
it happening again. You MUST improve the environment.>
I also hope to be able
to pick up Aquarisol, aquarium salt, BettaMax and a thermometer along with the
bowl.
<The thermometer is certainly useful. The "BettaMax" is useless and
salt is irrelevant if you fix the living conditions. No idea what "Aquarisol"
is, and consequently is almost certainly not relevant here. You need the
following: A 5 gallon tank. A heater. A filter. You can add other stuff to the
shopping list if you want. But those things are essential. Leave even one of
them off and THIS FISH WILL DIE. Because Bettas like to jump, I'd recommend a
tank with a lid, but that's about the only optional item. Please understand that
you are WASTING money buying remedies and junk like BettaMax if you don't fix
the environment. The companies that make stuff like BettaMax depend on the fact
that there are lots of people who think it's better to spend $5 every few weeks
on their magic potions instead of $20 up front to buy a decent aquarium. I have
no objections to people wasting money because they fall for fancy marketing (my
house is full of stuff I don't actually need!) but there's an animal's welfare
at stake here. So we need to be serious. This fish is already sick, almost
certainly because the environment, from a Betta's perspective, stinks. That's
the ball game here, not the magic potions and powders. Yes, you will need to
treat with Maracyn to fix the infection on its head, but you also need to put
the poor creature in a proper aquarium. If you can't do that, get something that
doesn't need this level of care, like a cactus. It's really as simple as that.>
Anxiously waiting,
J.
<Done my best to help! Cheers, Neale.>
My new Betta fish, sys. mostly
9/1/08
Hi!!
<Hello,>
I just moved out of my house for the first time, (I’m a university student) and
I was missing my cat so I decided to buy a Betta fish less then a week ago.
<OK>
I just moved from a small town to a large city and the pet store I got my fish
from treats their fish way better then any other place I’ve ever been. In fact I
picked my fish out not based on color (as I originally had intended) but because
he was so active and seemed so healthy. The fish at the pet stores in my home
town are so lethargic and boring. I only wanted a Betta fish because they were
pretty. Needless to say I have fallen in love with my Ulmo’s personality.
<Well, I do like the name, being a bit of a Tolkien fan.>
Even so I never knew until I went onto you site that Betta fish should have more
living space!!
<Indeed so. The more the better, but something like 20-30 litres is fine, and
will leave a little space for fun critters such as cherry shrimps and snails.>
Ulmo is really active, energetic and he seems to recognize me.
<Quite probably. Fish intelligence is substantially higher than the general
public assumes. Many tropical fish have been widely used for all types of animal
behaviour experiments because of their combination of small size and complex
behaviour.>
I have a live plant in his tank that he loves to play with (he even gets stuck
in it sometimes) He has a large bubble nest in the corner of one tank and he
flares when I show him a mirror. (I don’t like to do it that often as it takes
him awhile to calm down)
<As you observe, a little stimulation is a good thing, but giving him some down
time is important too.>
His tank however is only 2L (1/2 a gallon –I’m Canadian) and I don’t have a
heater. (which was kinda stupid of me Duh! my fish comes from Thailand –its
tropical)
<Ah yes, they do indeed need warmth, and a lot of it. You're aiming for 25 C,
and in particular a pocket of warm muggy air on top of the tank. If the air is
cold, they tend to get sick more easily.>
Anyway I just moved Ulmo’s tank from the window, put a lamp over his tank (for
the plant) and turned up the heat in my room.
<Do be careful: an uncovered tank is an accident waiting to happen. Bettas are
notoriously good at jumping.>
Will he be ok for the next couple of weeks until I get some cash to buy him a
larger tank and a heater?
<In the very short term, you might be fine. Here in England I have my heaters
turned down for summer simply because the alternation of warm days and cool
nights is good for the fish and encourages many species to breed. But the
smaller the tank, the more rapid this change, and in half a litre of water
that's going to cool down almost as fast as a hot cup of tea! Conversely, it
could warm up horribly quickly in direct sunlight. So avoid draughts (which
would chill the thing) and direct sunlight (which would boil it). But once
daytime temperatures get below 18 C, the poor little Betta will feel his immune
and digestive systems packing up, and that's the slippery slope to death.>
It’s September right now and the climate where I am is fairly mild still.
<OK. Well, I suspect you have a shopping list already worked out. Do look about
in thrift stores and the like; you can get some bargains on used equipment.
Sometimes aquarium shops sell old stuff too, for example ex-display tanks and
filters. Definitely worth exploring.>
Thanks for your input!!
<Most welcome, Neale.>
Tip for anyone reading this: research your fish before you buy!!
<Our family motto.>
Betta heating and summary 7/27/08
I read all your page on Betta tank setup and the 6 FAQ's. Here is my
summary and a few questions.
<Okay>
Still struggling with the heater issue. The only one I see recommended has
no temperature control.
<I do see this... and did think the 7.5 watt Hydor product was
thermostatic...>
This means that if you don't keep an eye on it you can cook your fish. Am I
wrong? Any other alternatives?
<Yes... one of the "regular" clip on units of 25 watts... sold by Hydor
(their Theo brand) and many others... offered by DrsFosterSmith and Marine
and Reef et al .coms>
Looking at a 3 gallon tank. There was another recommendation but the link
was lost (it was on Drs Foster Smith).
Hydor heater
http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_viewitem~idproduct~HD10401~productid~HD10401~c
hannelid~FROOG~
<http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_viewitem~idproduct~HD10401~productid~HD10401~
channelid~FROOG~&tab~4.html> &tab~4.html
OVERVIEW
We want a VERY simple, 1 Betta fish, as small as humane.
Need filtration, 3 gallon minimum.
It sounds like a good setup is Eclipse 3 gallon but the turbulence can be a
problem solved with plastic plants.
<Yes>
Will check Marineland as well at Wal-Mart.
CYCLING
Bio Spira for cycling fast. If I can't find that, can I just put food in for
a month to avoid cycling with a fish?
<Without>
Sponge filter is good for biological filtration. Not sure what that is but
the eclipse comes with a BioWheel.
<This wheel is more than adequate>
AQUASCAPING
With a good filter is gravel necessary given that the fish are not typically
on the bottom?
<The gravel is better... cuts down on reflection... aids in biofiltration>
Any best size of gravel (e.g. in marine tanks smaller is better for
bacteria).
<Most any made for freshwater aquarium use is okay>
Any depth is OK or is it like SW where depth matters so you have aerobic and
anaerobic bacteria?
<An inch or so... I prefer something not too light colored...>
Don't need bubbling since filter will accomplish aeration.
<Correct>
Silk plants for aquaria are better because they don't cut the fish's fins.
<Yes... this or natural/live>
They like caves
<Mmm, not really>
WATER CONDITIONING (sorry-missed this on your site)
<A good dechloraminator is all this is needed, or just letting new water set
out for a week or more before use>
Have been babysitting a beta and switched to using tap water with Amquel.
Got an algae bloom. It sounded like using Amquel chronically wasn't a good
idea in one post?
<Better to use Novaqua or such instead>
I assume it's the tap water since when we had a SW fish tank using RO water
took this problem away. There was a caution against using store bought RO
water somewhere on your site. What's best?
<The tap almost always... dechloraminated>
I assume 20% water change weekly is optimal with this setup?
<About right, yes>
LIGHTING
Lighting is still unclear. They don't need much. The eclipse fluorescents
should be diffused with plants. How many hours a day is OK?
<8-12...>
BEHAVIOR
On your behavior section it focused on pathological behavior. Is there any
cool healthy behavior (other than fighting with each other) we can foster?
I heard that they make some kinds of bubbles if they are in low flow.
<Mmm, too large a topic to discuss here... much, subtle that can/does go on
with Betta husbandry>
ADVICE ON PARTICULAR BRANDS OF PRODUCTS
I've been burned by ignorant LFS. Where's the best online advice for
particular brands?
Went to Drs. Foster smith
<Excellent>
and looked under Marineland and got this HUGE canister filter. Need stuff
for a small tank. Don't see any alternative to the Eclipse.
websites for Betta-lovers:
http://www.ibcbettas.com/
<A worthy source>
http://www.bettacave.com/
<Don't know>
http://www.bcbetta.com/ >
<http://www.siamsbestbettas.com> http://www.siamsbestbettas.com/
<These seem okay>
Have I missed anything?
<Mmm... no... not on cursory review>
Allyson C. Rosen, Ph.D., ABPP-CN
<Bob Fenner... friends of Marty Rosen... and wondering if you are familiar
with Donn E. Rosen, the ichthyologist>
Re: Betta heating and
summary-more info 07/28/2008
I read and they say a 1 gallon container is sufficient for this
fish. What is the basis for everyone on your site saying it must be
3 gallons?
http://www.ibcbettas.org/faq.htm
<Experience, and the fact most people who keep Bettas are not
hardcore Betta breeders prepared to change 90% of the water in each
jar per day. Those water changes have to match closely the
temperature and water chemistry of the outgoing water otherwise the
fish will be harmed. So while experts might manage, a lot of people
will find this very hard work. For the average, casual fishkeeper,
there is absolutely no discussion that the bigger the container, the
easier maintaining the Betta in a healthy condition will be. Period.
I just don't see any point to keeping Bettas in such tiny containers
anyway. If you want something that fits into a 1 gallon jar, get
some cut flowers.>
On their main site they have "How to Entertain your Betta Fish" as a
free download.
<Of dubious value, though very cute. In a decent sized tank with
water movement, space to explore, plants, and suitable tankmates,
there is ample stimulation for any fish. The idea that we need toys
or games for fish kept in tiny tanks is a tacit admission that
keeping them in such tiny tanks isn't very nice.>
Another good site
http://www.bettatalk.com/betta_care.htm
<I'm just not wild about the idea of selling/keeping any animal as
suitable for tiny aquaria. It panders to our worst tendencies. For
every one fishkeeping who keeps a Betta in a jar the proper way,
doing daily water changes and checking water quality and chemistry
all the time, there are dozens if not hundreds of people who don't.
We get some many reports here about sick Bettas in unheated tanks,
or Bettas that show no interest in food, or are sick from Finrot or
whatever. Too many people empathise with animals so poorly that they
think of them as little more than toys, and don't consider their
needs as living organisms. Witness the ghastly trade in "Betta Bags"
and other ornaments containing bubbles of water and a Betta, sold as
novelties to unthinking shoppers.
Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Betta heating and
summary-more info 07/28/2008
OK one last funny post. This is an absolute RIOT!!! You should
definitely link to this woman's site. She truly loves fish. Thanks
guys.
http://www.bettatalk.com/evacuating_with_bettas.htm
<Cute. Luckily I don't live on a fault, though we did have a mild
earthquake out here in Berkhamsted a few years ago. I just thought it
was a truck driving past, until I realised there was no sound. Very
odd experience. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Betta heating and
summary-more info – 07/28/08
Very well put, Neale. Thanks. I think I have the heater resolved
and now I need to find a filter for a small tank. The eclipse system
is my backup but I hear it's too high flow.
<Yes, with fancy Bettas, too strong a current is undesirable. I'd
heartily recommend a simple air-powered sponge or box filter with
Bettas for this reason. Cheap and incredibly efficient with small
fish.>
It would help if you post examples of good Betta setups (with
specific equipment) that we could clone. They have this with tank of
the month on ReefCentral. Wading through all these FAQ's is very
long and repetitive for those of us who want to do things right. It
must be worse so for you who have to read and post it.
<Hmm... not a bad idea at all. Certainly my idea of a perfect Betta
tank would use a 25-50 W heater, a 20 cm x 20 x 45 (or 60) cm tank,
a simple glass lid to stop the fish jumping out, and an air-powered
box filter. Such a tank could be placed on an east-facing windowsill
so that the aquatic plants and algae growth thick without the tank
massively overheating, and you could easily add the shrimps and
snails of your choice.>
Many thanks again,
Allyson
<My pleasure, Neale.>
|
Question About Fighting Fish –
07/21/08
I've had a Siamese fighting fish for almost a year, his name is
Silvermoon. He's been a very pleasant, surprisingly peaceful and an
amusing fish thus far, however in the past few days I've noticed
he's become less interested in his food.
<Check temperature, water quality.>
The last two days, I fed him but he didn't eat it for a long time, I
walked away and by the time I returned the food was gone. Today,
however he just doesn't seem to want to eat and I am concerned. The
temperature is 24 degrees (Celsius) and the water was recently
cleaned, I put a little bit of the old water as per usual although
not as much as before as it was getting dirty frequently, and I put
the proper medications in the tap water.
<What filter are you using? Bettas do not do well in unfiltered
tanks (unless you are changing 50-90% daily). Regardless of their
size and activity level, like all fish they need zero ammonia in the
water. Using your ammonia test kit and check the water. If you have
anything other than zero ammonia, that's your problem. Review
filtration and how you are maintaining the filter in terms of
cleaning the media.>
I don't understand why he isn't eating, even when he swims to the
top sometimes he doesn't even try and eat it. I feed him bloodworms
mostly, and the occasional pellet, usually he eats them quickly. I
feed him twice a day, one in the morning and one at night everyday.
What am I doing wrong? What should I do?
Regards,
Stefan
<Most folks "fail" with Bettas because they keep them in too-small,
unfiltered aquaria. Poor water will kill Bettas just as fast as
anything else. So invariably that's the thing I'd recommend you
check first. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Question About Fighting Fish
The water is pretty clean, I just cleaned it today and cleaned
it a few days ago as well.
<If the tank in not filtered, you need to be changing some (50%) of
the water daily.>
I check the ph level and it is normal according to chart I was
provided in the fish store.
<Ok.>
The tank I have is probably too small, and I do not use a filter. I
used to, but with my old fighting fish it tended to suck him in
because of the tank size.
<Obviously the wrong sort of filter. An air-powered sponge filter
works just dandy with Bettas, providing both gentle current (which
they like) and good water quality (which they need). Here in the UK,
a basic sponge filter plus a small air pump would cost well under
£20. Given the cost of the ceramic castle and the bright purple
gravel, I'm guessing you're not averse to spending money on your
pets, which is good!>
I assume that means I need a much bigger tank yes? I'm going to sort
that out as soon as possible and put him in my bigger tank with a
filter and heater, it will take me a few days however to complete
the tank.
<Bettas simply do better in at least reasonably big tanks; something
8-10 gallons would be ample. A small heater and air powered sponge
filter would complete the set-up nicely. No need to buy a ready-made
kit; buying the "parts" individually can work out less expensive.>
If I do it by the weekend, do you think Silvermoon will be okay
until then?
<Yep, if you lay off the food and keep the water clean.>
Is there anything I can do in the meantime to make sure he doesn't
expire, like frequent water changes?
<Hole in one! I can see we understand each other...>
He was swimming a lot when I cleaned his tank, but now he's hiding
in the castle...there is a castle inside the tank that has 2 holes
in it to swim in and out of, he tends to go in the very bottom hole
and hide in there more than usual.
<Wouldn't read TOO much into this, though when fish are stressed
they do tend to find the safest place and lurk there.>
I have attached some photographs to help provide better insight. 1
and 3 are of Silvermoon and his appearance, 2 is of the whole tank
to give you an idea of the size and the castle and stuff and 4 is of
the temperature.
<Looks a nice little set-up, though I'd suggest not using purple
gravel next time -- fish feel more comfy, and show better colours,
when the substrate is dark. Black is great, plain gravel just as
good. As for ornaments, they couldn't care less, and castles are
just fine!>
I hope this helps save Silvermoon,
SG
<Every confidence in your understanding of the situation, and what
you need to do to help. Good luck, Neale.>
|
|
 |
Betta Doesn't Like His Cave - 7/2/08
Hello
<Hello Helen!>
thanks for taking my question.
<Thanks for your appreciation!>
I am a new beta mom, and have a happy little guy (so far)
he is in a 1 gallon tank that has an air pump and lamp. (Bernie's Betta
Cove)
<1 gallon is a passable home for a Betta, and much better than a bowl or
cup, but he'd really love a nice 2 or 5 gallon aquarium. A filter of some
sort would be good, and a heater is a must with these fish, unless the
ambient room temperature is high- 78-80 degrees Fahrenheit.>
I've read that betas like having a cave to hide in, so I gave my finned
friend a porcelain tea cup (no sharp edges, and water proof) sitting
sideways.
He has totally ignored it. Is it because it is white and is too bright? I
put some gravel in it so he can see he can go in it, but after 1 week, he
has not even tried to go in it.
The cup is big enough to accommodate him w/ his fins flared, so I am at a
loss as to why he is not interested.
<Not a natural cave- and a bit shallow, so he'll feel like a cornered
animal.>
Shall I just remove it to give him back his space?
<I would>
Should I try a silk plant instead?
<Some silk plants- or live ones- might be appreciated. Just stay away from
any that have places his fins could get caught or torn>
(I only run the air pump for 1 hr a day, and also keep it at a fairly
low flow, so as not to make the water too turbulent)
<Air bubbling really isn't necessary, as surface exchange of gas will
provide plenty of oxygen. This is especially true if you were to add a small
filter, set to a low current, which would gently circulate top and bottom
water. In addition to opercular gills, Betta spp. are Anabantoid fish, which
means they have a very small lung in the forehead region- this allows them
to both make the bubble nests we are familiar with, as well as get at least
some of their oxygen needs directly from the air in potentially hypoxic
situations.>
thanks for your thoughts
<No trouble. Enjoy your new friend, if you haven't give the Betta habitat
articles, FAQ on wetwebmedia.com a read.>
Helen
<Benjamin>
Re: moving Betta
6/1/08
Hello again, my question I was trying to ask from before was how would
I put my Betta into his new ten gallon tank without stressing or killing
him. Should I put some of his water from his small 5 liter tank that I
hospitalized him in?
<No.>
I don't want to shock him at all. When I did put him in this hospital tank
he was stressed out very much so.
<Likely being trapped in a 5-litre tank did that.>
What should I do to safely introduce him into his new tank.
<Variation of the drip method, ideally. Place the fish in a bucket
containing "old" water. Over 30-60 minutes add small portions of water from
the new tank into the bucket. Then use a net to move the fish from the
bucket to the new aquarium.>
What should be done so he doesn't go into shock.
<Minimise temperature and water chemistry differences; ensure water quality
in new tank is optimal and the filter mature.>
I already have a heater, filter and conditioned water. Thanks a lot for your
help.
<Cheers, Neale.>
I just got <sic> 4 betas, Reading, using
WWM 5/4/08
Hello,
<Hi>
I just saved 4 beta fish from being flushed and need some help. They were in
pretty bad shape when I got them, in small plastic bowls soo dirty you couldn't
see through them. I bought 4 - 2 gallon tanks with air filters that have what
looks like a rock at the end of a hose. Is this an ok filter system for them?
<Can't discern what this is from your description. Read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/bettasysart.htm
these systems are heated?>
I let the tanks run 48 hours
<... not cycled?>
before moving them into it and put them in small bags with their original water
and let them float as well slowly adding water before I put them into the tanks.
I followed every step that each site I looked up recommended. They were sick
when I got them, which was easy to spot, and I just wanted to see if you could
give me any help before I go any further.
<Help yourself... Read>
Fish 1 - Is absolutely beautiful with the largest fins I've ever seen on a beta.
Could this mean he is older than the others?
<Possibly>
He just lies listlessly on the bottom of the tank and when he does swim to the
top for air he swims straight up to the top but he seems to be struggling. After
a minute or so he just sinks back down to the bottom. He shows no visible signs
of sickness, and I treated him with a small dose of general cure following the
directions, but no change. His water, as all the other tanks, is at 78 degrees.
(I am trying to find small heaters for their tanks). Turning on the light helps
raise the temp, but I've read the light is bad for sick betas. His ph is 7.0, as
all the others are, and any time I do a 25% water change I let the water sit for
at least 24 hours.
<Good. I would treat it for sanitizer as well, or store it for a week or more...
as is presented on WWM>
I'm not sure about ammonia or nitrate levels, as I just figured that out after
reading your website and will go get testers for them. He eats only a little
every few days.
<Tropical? If not heated, these fish will languish... >
Fish 2 - Is fun, hungry and playful but shows signs of velvet. I also treated
him with general cure, but so far, no change. His tank is the same as all the
others. His color is red and I'm not sure what to do.
Fish 3 - I the worst of all. His fins are clamped and he gets scared and jumps
when you even go near the tank. He eats a little, but is in bad shape. He has
silver spots on his head and belly, and am not sure if he is supposed to be this
way or not, as I haven't had him that long. He seems to be very dull in color as
well, and hangs close to the top of the tank.
Fish 4 - also shows signs of velvet but seems to be in good health and spirit.
He eats well, but his water is cloudier than all the others, although it is
cared for the same way. His levels are the same. I can't tell if his one eye is
larger than the other but it seems to be. I'm not sure because its hard to get a
good look at him, he is pretty active. If he did have pop-eye, could that cause
the water to become cloudy?
I know this is alot,
<No such word>
but I just want to give them a good home, and help them get better. Please help
if you can.
Thank you so much,
Maureen
<Please read where you're referred. Bob Fenner>
Re: I just got <sic> 4 betas, Reading,
using WWM 5/4/08
I'm sorry, my previous email had a typo in it. Here is the corrected
version, to save you some editing time.
I saw this email on your daily FAQ's today. I think what Maureen means is that
her two gallon tanks came with an air pump, and the "rock at the end of a hose"
is an airstone attached to some airline tubing, which means there is no filter.
It sounds to me like there is also no heater, but box stores like PetCo and
PetSmart sell heaters for those little tanks for between $5 and $10. She can
also find affordable HOB or in tank filters there as well. I hope this helps.
Jackie
<Thank you for this input Jackie. BobF>
New Betta tank sprouting hair
algae 4/9/08
Hello, I love your site! I have already learned a lot. It was referred to me
by a friend who has used your site and has learned a lot as well.
<Ahh!>
That being said I have a question regarding a new Betta tank. I had two Bettas
in one gallon aquariums with the light on top. I'd consistently change the water
once every week or so and they have flourished very nicely. (I only use reverse
osmosis water and I add salt crystals).
<Mmm, better for your Betta... to use about half tap/mains water mixed with the
RO... and leave out the salt>
About 2-3 weeks ago I decided to buy a 20 gallon stand alone aquarium and I put
a divider in the middle so each of my guys would have 10 gallons!
<Nice!>
This was graduation day not only for my Bettas but for me as well!
<Congrats!>
I filled it up with 20 gals of reverse osmosis water, (yes you should have seen
me hauling all of those gallons of water out of Wal-Mart!), I added the salt
crystals, put in river rocks and the divider and added my fish. All has been
well and my Bettas seen more than happy! But surprisingly, even though these
fish were now in so much water I began noticing a quick build up of slime on the
top mixed with the bubbles that Bettas like to make. This didn't look too nice
so I went to the aquarium store and I bought a small hang-on filter which I
attached to one side.
<Good>
Because I have the divider, and I know Bettas don't require a lot of water
circulation, I have simply moved the filter back and forth. (this is proving to
be a little tedious as the water always looks a little nasty on the top of the
side that is not circulating).
<Mmm, perhaps another filter for the other side... or maybe the intake or return
to the one can be remoted to the other side... to provide more thorough
circulation?>
I'm thinking I may have to start all over as the filter does not seem to be
cleaning or circulating the top adequately.
<Well... too early to tell, judge really... there are other means of aiding
maintenance, avoiding algal proliferation>
I incorporated some natural plants that I bought from my local aquarium store
which may be contributing to the problem.
<Mmm, au contraire... give them time>
My main problem is this: the day before yesterday I noticed that the side of the
aquarium which has the most circulation is suddenly sprouting hair algae all
over. On the glass, the tops of the river rocks and even the live plants look
fuzzy as if they are growing hair algae as well. What's funny is there is no
hair algae on the other side of the aquarium with the lesser circulation.
<Interesting. Am wondering if there might be other factor/s at play... perhaps
more light... from the sun...>
This morning I also noticed what look like cobweb strings floating in the water
or strands of long hair. Not floating on the top but in the body of the water
attached at the side and moving around with the movement of the water. In the
three years that I've had Bettas and have kept them in 1 gallon aquariums with
no moving water I have never seen algae sprout up or had this problem. Because I
am new with an actual aquarium I'm lost as to what I should do. What could be
the cause of this and what should I do? Help!
Charity
<Let's see... if it were me/mine... I'd consider "going the biological route" a
bit further with your set-up/maintenance. Perhaps the addition of some
just-sexually reproducing snails... or even Otocinclus... and patience. Do
please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwalgcontrol.htm
and the linked files above... up to the point you consider that you understand
your options... and write back for further input if I/we may be of additional
assistance. Bob Fenner>
|
Cycling without a filter? FW,
Betta... sys. 3/17/08
Dear Crew,
<Hello,>
I bought a male Betta about 4 days ago. I got him a 5 gallon tank, some gravel,
plants, Amquel for the water and OmegaOne Betta pellets.
<Fine.>
No filter and no heater.
<Unacceptable.>
The local aquatic shop told me not to change the water for about a month so that
it would establish a cycle.
<Not only garbage advice, but also dangerous: the bacteria are not in the water
but in the filter, and not changing the water only allows the ammonia to build
up to toxic levels.>
Then I should bring in a water sample so they could determine that the ammonia
and nitrite levels had spiked and declined. Then after that, I should do a 10%
water change weekly to keep up the cycle.
<In a tank without a filter, you need to be doing daily water changes of at
least 25%. Seriously. No-one in their right mind keeps fish this way. Get a
filter of some sort. Even a plain vanilla sponge filter with an air pump will do
the trick for a tank this size. Otherwise, your Betta has a very short lifespan
ahead of it.>
He said that Betta are "tough" and that mine would survive the ordeal just fine.
<Horse hooey. Wild Bettas are indeed quite tough animals, but fancy Bettas are
not. It's like saying a pampered Persian cat would thrive on the plains of the
Serengeti.>
I'm purchasing a 25 watt heater tomorrow and I gave him some aquarium salt
today.
<Aquarium salt...? Who told you to add this stuff. It's not a brackish water
fish and doesn't need salt. It needs a FILTER and a HEATER. Please, read a book
about Bettas and then make sensible purchases. Your retailer has marked you as
what we in the trade call a "sucker" and is selling you any old thing. Please
don't let him do this! Be an educated shopper!>
The shop guy said that the salt and raising the temp would help my Betta's
immune
system and help him get through the cycle.
<Double garbage. Think about this scientifically. Does your medic tell you to
eat a box of salt when you're ill? Does he tell you to turn the heating up in
your house? No. What your fish needs is a constant temperature (25C/77F) and
good quality FRESHWATER conditions.>
He maintained that I do not need a for a 5 gallon tank. Does this all seem
right?
<No it does not.>
I don't want to hurt my Betta or cause him to get sick.
<Probably too late. If he's sitting in an unfiltered, unheated bowl he is about
as happy as you would be skinny dipping in a garbage dump in Siberia.>
Please advise.
<Read. Books. Now.>
Also, what do you think about using Aquarisol as a parasite preventative?
<Again, think about this using your science education. Does your doctor tell you
to consume anti-parasite medications just to stay healthy? No. A healthy diet,
clean water, exercise are among the things you do to "prevent" sickness.
Likewise for your fish. Keep the water clean by using a filter and running
regular water changes. Provide a nice varied diet with a mix of different things
through the week, not the same food day-in, day-out. Keep the temperature
constant using a heater. All basic stuff. Nothing fancy.>
Sincerely,
Heidi
<Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Cycling without a filter?
-03/17/08
Dear Neale,
<Heidi,>
Thank you for your prompt reply. I certainly didn't intend to do the
wrong things for my Betta and was hoping that a store that specializes
in fish would give me the right advice.
<Wishful thinking, unfortunately.>
Obviously I was mistaken. I will certainly purchase a heater and a
sponge filter
promptly and will get some Betta books.
<Don't need "some". Just one will do, and I'd recommend a nice little
all-around aquarium book so you have all the facts at your fingertips.>
I do want to be a responsible, informed owner, not a sucker.
<Indeed!>
Should I do a water change now before introducing a heater and a filter?
<Water changes are always good, so if in doubt, do 'em.>
If so, how much?
<25-50%.>
Also, after introducing a filter, how often and how much water should I
change?
<25-50%.>
At this point, should I clean the gravel, plants, etc and start fresh?
Or will the used gravel help with the nitrogen cycle?
<It'll help somewhat. Give everything a good clean in water taken from
the aquarium.>
Do I need to introduce the heat gradually?
<No, the heater should raise the temperature quite slowly, especially if
you buy the correct wattage for the tank you have. Don't switch the
heater on right away though: they can crack if they start getting hot
before the glass has reached ambient water temperature first. Not
common, but happens.>
I'm obviously just learning about all this...but in general, it seems
like I would
clean the filter weekly, change a percentage of the water weekly, and
vacuum the gravel.
<Pretty much. I don't clean the sand/gravel that often, and normal just
"suck up" the detritus with the siphon as I'm taking water out. But each
to their own on this.>
I know that the temperature of the new water has to be the same as the
old, what is the best way to accomplish that if there is a heater in the
tank?
<Slightly cool water added to the tank causes no problems, so don't get
paranoid. If you like, let the new water reach room temperature before
adding to the aquarium (easier if you have two buckets, one for the new
water to sit in, and then another to take old water out when you're
ready).>
Is there ever a time to completely wash everything, plants, gravel,
tank, etc?
<As and when. Most folks find they need to "deep clean" their tanks
every year or two, but some are more house-proud, others less so. In
theory, water changes and the filter should remove almost all of the
dirt between them.>
Finally, is it good to introduce a live plant such as a java fern?
<Makes no odds either way. If you have a light over the tank, then by
all means add a plant suitable to the wattage of that light. Otherwise,
it's just one more thing to worry about. The fish don't care if plants
are real or plastic.>
If so, at what point can I put it in the tank without messing up any
cycling?
<Has no effect.>
Until I have read all those books to properly inform me, I'm really
wishing that you could just give me a list of what do to, in order, from
this point on.
<I'm $250 an hour! But seriously, Bob has a nice article on Betta
Basics. Read it!
http://208.112.95.51/FWSubWebIndex/betta_splendens.htm
Any questions after that, get in touch.>
Is that too much to ask or seems like too much hand-holding?
<Holding hands is nice, but knowing better yourself is best! Read and
learn.>
I really appreciate your time and advice.
<happy to help.>
Sincerely,
Heidi
<Cheers, Neale.> |
Betta's Water Level
3/3/08
Dear WWM,
Greetings; I have a Betta for almost three years now. I have him in a 6.6
bookshelf aquarium tank. I noticed that lately he has been having a hard time
reaching the top; so I lowered his water level; he seems to be doing better. I
also keep the filter and air pump running at a lower force too. My question is,
since Bettas originally lived in rice patties isn't it wise to have the water
level as low as possible? Or can you tell me how high should the water be? I am
concerned because of his age. Thanks in advance for your help. Jean
<Wild Bettas live in rivers and lakes, albeit among the vegetation, and no
aquarium is going to be too deep for them. The problem for aquarists is that
fancy Bettas have been bred to have very long fins; while pretty, they make it
difficult for them to swim. Lowering the water level reduces the amount of water
in the tank, and this makes the aquarium less stable in terms of temperature and
water quality. In other words, the less water in the tank, the less healthy the
environment. So while the fish might be better able to swim to the top, it's
also more likely to get sick from environmental issues. My recommendation would
be to keep the water at its normal level, but add some tall or floating plastic
plants so that the Betta has somewhere to rest. Cheers, Neale.>
Severe Betta Neglect 2-14-08
Hello Crew,
<Hello, Merritt here!>
I'm ashamed to be writing because I've completely neglected the well-being of my
Betta while keeping two healthy reef aquariums.
<At least you are trying to fix the Betta now>
My Betta appeared to have cataracts... now, after a long look, my Betta is also
bloated and obviously suffering from constipation.
Epsom salt doses will begin immediately.
<The Epsom salt will help with the Betta being bloated and the constipation>
The Betta will be taken off of "Betta pellets" (temporarily) and fed
every-other-day sparingly) with adult brine shrimp.
<Adult brine shrimp are not very nutritious unless you are feeding the adult
shrimp a vitamin rich diet. I would only feed the brine shrimp for a short while
and then continue with the pellets. You could also mix up the Betta's diet with
some Mysid shrimp, mine love them!>
The Betta is in a 3 gallon planted tank, kept at 78+ degrees and gets water
changes every couple weeks with RO/DI.
<Sounds great! But change the water more frequently, at least until the Betta
gets better>
The Betta can see the pellets at this point but it seems the "cataracts" may
hinder that in the future.
<Those "cataracts" will clear up when the other ailments are taken care of>
I've included a few pictures that will hopefully help the WWM crew with
diagnosis.
<Please resend the pictures, they were not attached to the email. I would like
to see your Betta>
Thank you!
<You're welcome! Please don't forget sending the pictures! Merritt A.>
Preparing for a Betta, sys.
2/4/08
Hey WWM crew!
Thank you so much for all the help you've already given me. I search all over
when asking fish questions, and yet I almost always find the answers here.
<Ah, good>
You folks helped a lot with what ended up being a failed attempt at starting a
20 gallon aquarium in a place with really hard water (KH ~180ppm, GH ~200ppm, pH
~8.2). I've moved somewhere new with more moderate water (KH ~80ppm, GH ~25ppm),
and I'd like to try using my old 2.5gal quarantine tank for a Betta.
<Okay>
Mostly I just want to check in and see if my setup would be suitable, and if I
would have any trouble fighting with the local water to make it work. I've tried
measuring the pH of some water I let stand for 24hours and found the low range
pH test gave me 7.2, while the high range test gave me 7.8 (I'm planning to get
a different pH test kit when I get a chance).
<This will work>
As for the equipment the 2.5gal rectangular tank has a thick layer of
Eco-Complete gravel (I'm planning on adding a small plant later if possible). I
have a 25W heater (since its often under 50 degrees in my house this time of
year).
<Brrrrrr!>
I have yet to test how stable this keeps the temperature.
<Should be fine>
I was also wondering about the use a filter on this tank. I have a Whisper 3i
filter rated for 1-3 gallons (powered by bubbling the water through). Would it
be best not to use it, use it, or get a different filter?
<This will likely do>
Finally the gravel and the tank were in contact with some fish that had ich
about 2 years ago. Should I be concerned?
<No>
I read on your site that if heated to 78F the cysts will break out, and failing
to find a host fish in 3 to 4 days will die. Would this be an effective means of
ensuring the ich is gone, or should I also medicate the water?
<I would simply rinse this gravel and use it>
Thanks again!
Mouse,
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Betta... sys.
1/14/08
Hi-
<Hello.>
I have a female Betta fish that is currently living in my heated tank (around
76º) with other fish- would it be possible to transfer it to a bowl
environment that is not heated?
<No. Bettas need filtration and heat, neither of which are present in a bowl.>
It's not doing too well because my other female Betta fish is chasing it around
constantly, and I thought that maybe it might help to separate them.
<How big is this tank? It's certainly a fair comment that when kept in tanks 40
litres/10 gallons or smaller Bettas tend to be aggressive towards one another.
Adding floating plants may help. Bettas operate on a "line of sight" sort of
way, so if they can't see one another, they don't go looking for fights. Because
Bettas stay close to the surface, ornaments on the bottom of the tank don't help
much, if at all, because the Bettas don't like to be down there all the time.
But floating plants (even plastic ones) offer lots more potential.>
I've seen other Betta fish living in bowls
often, but I'm not sure if the change in temperatures would be too much for it
in terms of shock.
<I've seen cooked cats (seriously) but this doesn't mean I recommend people eat
them. Lots of people keep fish in a bad way, and simply because you see them do
it, doesn't mean you should follow suit. Keeping Bettas in bowls is not really
fair on them, and doesn't do anything to improve their health or quality of
life. At best they die slowly, at worst they die quickly. They are much happier
kept in heated, filtered aquaria. Even a small tank (40 litres/10 gallons or
less) is viable for male Bettas when kept on their own.>
Thanks for the advice,
Liz
<Cheers, Neale.>
With a very heavy heart...
Betta loss, sys. 1/3/08
Hi Everyone,
It is with heavy heart that I write this news. My beautiful, glorious female
blue and aqua Betta of 2.5 years drowned in the wee hours this morning. Upon
springing Domino from her captive single cup home, she was introduced to a
glorious 7 gallon tank, heated, filtered and kept absolutely spotless. A
plecostomus on board does his job well and was a fixture of hers for quite a
while as she poked around him as if to say 'swim with me'!
My tank has live plants and gravel, one small castle that the Plec. lives in and
a big plastic rock that Domino used frequently to freely swim in and out of. As
Domino grew she used the larger holes and I didn't think about the smaller ones.
To my sadness this morning I could easily tell what had happened. She went in
the rock through a large hole and tried to swim out a small hole. Her head and
front fins were wedged out so she could not swim forward or backward.
Please heed my warning to avoid sadness in your tank. Do not put decorations
with holes into tanks, no matter how safe they "look".
Domino's death was 100% avoidable had I just remembered that fact.
Sincerely,
Elizabeth
<Hello Elizabeth. Your story is very sad, and I do hope others read and act
accordingly. I've seen the same thing myself, with a Corydoras getting stuck in
a seashell-type ornament. Obligate air-breathing fish like Bettas and Corydoras
are at risk from drowning if they get stuck. As you say, such fish are best kept
in tanks with very carefully selected ornaments. Cheers, Neale.>
Betta...
sys.... reading 12/11/07
I have had my fish misty for almost a year now and recently I've
been having some problems. First off I had first put him in a small
Betta container and eventually got a 1g tank.
<I see this...>
I thought it was bare so I put 2 water snails in the tank and suddenly
it became more and more until I had way too many. Then suddenly I found
my fish on day with a puff eye so I put him in a large juice pitcher and
got rid of the snail thank. It was there that I found he was not really
eating. He was still acting happy just not eating anymore. I went to the
store to buy a new tank and decided to ask them about it. They gave me
Betta fix remedy, so I put the amount in and moments later he was eating
again. So that was good and now he seems to be eating normal now but his
eye is still puffy. I read online something about blood vessels and red
marks on the tail but he has had those since I got him and his eye was
fine then. What could it be?
<All the changes, a lack of heat...>
I also notice he had more of a puffier tummy this last month I though
noting of it but now it worries me I could just be paranoid but I don’t
know what it is can u maybe help me? Misty also has a 5 gallon tank now
and he seem to be happy swimming through the pillars in the statue I got
him an resting behind the plants at times it this a good tank for him?
<Is it heated? Is it cycled? Have you read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/bettasysart.htm
and the linked files above? What do your water quality tests show you re
nitrogenous wastes? Bob Fenner> |
|
.JPG) |
Betta and ADF, sys., RO water
use, 11/25/2007
Hello All,
Thanks in advance for the advice. Normally I am asking marine questions, but I
have a few probably very silly questions about a Betta tank. I have a six week
old, cycled, 3 gallon Eclipse tank with a male Betta and one African Dwarf Frog.
Parameters are Ammonia/Nitrite: 0, Nitrate: less than 20, pH: 6.0, and nearly
zero on DH and GH. The tank has live plants and a one inch gravel bottom. So,
the first question: I use RO/DI water instead of using a conditioner on tap
water. Is this okay or are my DH and GH readings too low from filtering out too
much?
<Always mix some tap water with the RO water; by itself, RO water isn't
acceptable for most fish. Aim for between 5-10 degrees dH. For a Betta, there's
absolutely no advantage to using RO water anyway, since these fish are very
adaptable and provided extremes are avoided couldn't care less about water
chemistry. Moderate hardness and neutral pH is probably the ideal.>
I had assumed the RO/DI was better, plus it is convenient since we have the unit
set up for the salt water tank, but now I am wondering.
<Very soft water causes problems with acidification and lack of stability.>
Second question: When I come into work in the morning, the tank is usually
around 77 degrees F. With the light on during the day, the temperature usually
creeps up to about 80 or 81. Is this too much fluctuation over a 24 hour period?
<It's fine for a Betta. Certainly "within the margin of error" for what a wild
Betta would be exposed to.>
Should I try and bump the heater up to keep is closer to 80 at night?
<No point if the fish is otherwise fine.>
Of course then it would still fluctuate up to 83 or 84 in the day then. Third
question: I have read your FAQs on ADF, but was still unsure about a few things.
I have only one, are they social and should be kept in multiples?
<I think they are better termed "sociable" rather than "social". They don't form
schools as such, but provided they aren't overcrowded you can keep several in a
tank and not have problems. A gallon of water per frog is often recommended, and
seems about right.>
I feed about 2 bloodworms (still need to get other "meaty" stuff, frog is new)
every 2 to 4 days. Should this be sufficient?
<Depends on the size of the frog, the quality of the bloodworms being used,
water temperature, and so on. Provided the belly is gently convex but not
bulging, you're fine. I'd be feeding this half a dozen bloodworms every day and
seeing how things go from there. If they get portly on this, skip a day or two
per week. If they look thin, I'd feed slightly more food, perhaps across two
meals per day. There's no hard-and-fast rule to how much to feed any animal; to
some extent you need to observe and react accordingly. Provided you don't give
the frogs so much they look like bowling balls with legs, then the issue isn't
overfeeding per se, but water quality.>
I know it is hard to say without seeing the frog, but does that sound like a
reasonable amount of food?
<A bit too little, too me.>
Any other advice is always appreciated! Thanks!
Michele
<Cheers, Neale.>
Deceased Beta, Getting a New
one... env. 11/5/07
Hi!
<Hello>
My family recently owned a purple beta named Cuebert (I don't know what kind of
beta he is) who lived in a bowl with a plant on it. (Sorry, I don't know what
type it is either, but it used to have white flowers.)
<Not terribly important, but I have to say these vases make terrible Betta
homes.>
I found him at the top of his bowl floating like he was standing on his back
fin.
While I was looking up diseases, I left him to get some peace. When I checked
back on him, poor old Cubie was lying on the bottom, not breathing.
<Sorry>
His color was a little gray, but it had been that way for a while.
Was this a sign of some long-term disease? We had him for 3-4 years, so it might
have been old age.
<I would say definitely old age, anything beyond a couple years is quite
unusual.>
He was never extremely active, never made a bubble nest, or jumped. Was there
something we were doing wrong?
<Not necessarily, but they do need heated, filtered tanks to really thrive.>
If we were to get another beta, where would we get them?
<Most fish or pet supply shops carry them and most come from the same breeders,
so where ever you can find a healthy looking specimen.>
Some are half-dead at the time of purchase! :(
<All too common.>
(One last question, sorry this is so long!) Do beta fish need tops on their
"houses"? There are a few I saw hat have none.
<They can jump so it is a good idea.>
Thanks so much!!!
-Laura
<For your next Betta I suggest upgrading his home to a small filtered and heated
tank, where he can really thrive. Most people consider those vases a death
sentence to the fish, although your did quite well.>
<Chris>
GH/KH concern with new Betta
– 10/28/07
Hello :),
I have a 6 gallon tank in my office with a heater (80 degree water), an internal
filter stuffed with filter floss (for low current), a few Java Ferns, an
Anubias, and some Vals.
<Nice>
I mixed 3/4 R/O water with 1/4 Spring water, and I have had a PH level of 7.2
for a week now. (Without the mixture of water, the PH of my tap water was pretty
high at above 8.
<Wow. Liquid rock>
Even the Spring water with the lowest PH reading I found, 7.0, jumped to over 8
in my filtered tank.)
My GH and KH readings are at about 53.7ppm (if I'm understanding the API test
kit.)
Some of the articles on the internet seem to indicate that these GH/KH levels
are fine, and others would seem to suggest a raising of the GH.
<Mmmm>
I understand that there are products like Kent R/O right and GH Botanica plus
from your website. But I know that Bettas like somewhat soft water, and I'd
rather not affect my PH if I don't have to, so I'm wondering if I can leave this
alone, or if that would be harmful to my new friend over time?
Thank you,
Patricia
P.S. I will be cycling with Bio-Spira, and Thanks for keeping up such a great
website!
<Thank you... and I think you are fine here with the calcium and general
hardness... for the plants, Betta... I would not change your stated protocol for
mixing water. Cheers, Bob Fenner>
Re: GH/KH concern with new
Betta – 10/30/2007
Hello,
Thank you so much for your quick response :). It's a scary moment, when you
think after weeks of research, you may have actually made things worse for your
fish! Thank you for sharing so much of your time with those of us who need it :)
Thanks again :),
Patricia
<Am very pleased to help you, others to improve their experience, the lives to
the life in their care. Cheers, Bob Fenner>
Moving Betta Fish to a Bigger
Tank/Fin rot 10/21/07
Hello,
<Hello!>
I got a betta fish about a month ago- my college had an event and they gave away
bettas for free. The bowl he came in seemed "too small" so I got him a larger
(half gallon) bowl, which he's been living in since then. However, reading on
your site (I know, I should have done my research *first* but I assumed that
since people in my dorm in previous years had bettas in those little bowls that
it was okay for them) I got him a 2.5 gallon tank with a heater and filter (it's
a charcoal filter type, rather than a sponge...is that okay?) and some largish
cloth plants.
<Carbon isn't really useful in this aquarium. You're going to need to change 50%
of the water weekly (at least) and doing that will remove the dissolved organic
wastes through dilution. Since carbon is used to remove those wastes, the carbon
is rendered obsolete. Carbon also removes medications: you cannot use fish
medicine in an aquarium with carbon. So, replace the carbon with *biological*
filter media instead. Sponge would be ideal, but ceramic hoops or filter wool
will work too.>
My question is, from what I've seen you're supposed to cycle the tank before
putting the fish in, but that can take up to 6 weeks.
<Yes.>
But it seems like even an uncycled heated and larger tank would be better for
Kappa (my betta) than his small cold bowl.
<Correct.>
Is it safe to put him in now, and just change the water often (I'm thinking
every 3 days with a 50% change- in his old bowl I was doing 100% changes every 3
days), or is it better to wait for the new tank to cycle?
<Your plan sounds ideal. Move the fish, do water changes regularly, and test the
nitrite levels periodically to check things are OK. When fish are exposed to
high ammonia and nitrite levels, they are prone to fungus and finrot, so you
want to keep them as low as possible, preferably zero.>
Also, I put the plastic plant and the gravel from his old bowl in, with new
gravel and a couple larger fabric plants- will that help the tank cycle faster?
<Marginally, if at all.>
(I don't know if there was anything beneficial on them, in order to get the
waste off the gravel I'd been swishing it in tap water when I did his water
changes, and rinsing off the plant
<Arggghh! Never wash anything under the tap you want bacteria to live on. Always
wash biologically active filter media in a bucket or bowl of water taken from
the aquarium.>
I did notice some sort of stringy whitish stuff on the plant though, is that
good or bad growth?)
<Likely algae (if green) or bacteria (if grey/white). Either way, harmless
though perhaps unsightly.>
I don't have any tests for ammonia/nitrates/nitrites yet, but I am getting some
as soon as I can find them (the store I went to was out of a lot of stuff).
<Get the simple combination dip-sticks. They're cheap (here around £10 for 25
tests) and you can slice them down the middle to make twice as many tests. Each
dip-stick has nitrite, ammonia, nitrate, pH and hardness (at least) making them
extremely useful for quickly judging the conditions in the tank.>
I'm especially concerned about leaving Kappa in the old bowl because he's had a
chronic case of fin rot since about a week after I got him. At first he lost
about a quarter inch of the 'webbing' on his tail, and I got him some aquarium
salt and tetracycline gel-food medicine.
<The salt detoxifies nitrite, which is useful when a tank is immature. I'm not
convinced Tetracycline food is beneficial, given it is an antibiotic for
internal infections, and Finrot is an external infection. I think you need to
add a Finrot medication to the water.>
The medicine said to give him 5 drops per serving (2x a day) but I could never
get him to eat more than 2 drops (the brand was "aquarium products gel-Tek
tetracycline", for what it's worth). It seemed to stop the fin rot, and it
started growing back but as soon as the medication period (3 days) ended, within
a day the tail had rotted back to about where it was the first time.
<Curing the symptoms -- Finrot -- while not fixing the cause -- poor water
quality -- locks you into a cycle where every time you cure the fish, it gets
sick again soon after.>
I tried the tetracycline again and this time he'd hardly eat it (I think he just
doesn't like it, he loves the Hikari pellets and frozen bloodworms that are his
normal food). The rot didn't really get any better, so I stopped for a couple of
days then switched to Jungle Fungus buddies (which said they also treat fin
rot). That has helped more, but by this time his tail is about half the length
it used to be.
<Oh.>
Anyway, the tail has been stable for a couple of days but after I switched Kappa
into the 2.5 tank, and he swam around for an hour or so, the webbing that had
been regrowing has fallen out again. Will the better conditions help him (he's
still on the Jungle medication), or do I need to do something else to get this
cleared up?
<I think at the moment you're "running to stand still" because high levels of
ammonia and nitrite in the aquarium are putting immense stress on the fish.>
(I've been trying to find Maracyn (2) since that seems to be highly recommended
on your site, but I can't find it in either of the pet stores here.) Other than
that he seems healthy and active- he was very curious about everything in the
new tank and comes over to me every time I get near. Also, pretty much every
time I changed his bowl water, he would make a bubble nest, so he couldn't have
been too unhappy...?
<In other words: when water quality improves, he's happy; when water gets bad
again, he stops being happy.>
Sorry this is so long, but I wanted to give as much detail as possible.
Thanks for your time,
--Kyra
<Do water tests, replace carbon with true biological filter media, ensure
ammonia and nitrite settle down to zero levels. Don't overfeed, and do regular
water changes. Keep treating the finrot. Once the water is good, you'll see the
finrot won't come back. Do read the articles here at WWM about Bettas. Cheers,
Neale.>
Re: Moving Betta Fish to a Bigger Tank/Fin rot
10/22/07
Dear Neale,
Thanks so much for your help and the quick response. I'll be looking for a new filter and ammonia/nitrite/nitrate tests for Kappa's tank. You guys run an amazing site, and I'm sure I'll be referencing it a lot in the future.
Thanks again,
--Kyra
<Kyra, thanks for the kind words, which I'll be sure and pass on to the Crew. Good luck with your Betta! Neale>
|
My new Betta, sys.
10/19/07
Hi there, I've read through all of your information on Betta, but I want to
be sure that I'm providing my little Squishy with the best. I've only had my
little guy for three days, and he looks great. His colors look more vibrant than
they did when I bought him, he eats well, (maybe too well, after reading some
material I've found that I feed him too often, two times a day, 2 pellets, 2
freeze dried bloodworms, but I'll cut down now) he's building bubble nests
<A good sign>
(at first I was worried that there was something wrong with the water, research
proved me wrong) swims around happily, and reacts when I interact with him.
Anyways, I was wondering how often I should change his water, there are sooo
many different opinions as to how often, and I want to make sure I do it right.
I was also wondering if he is in too small a container. The container is
described as a "large" betta keeper. But all these posts make me feel as though
I'm neglecting my Squishy. Thank you, Caryn
<Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/bettasysart.htm
and the linked files above... Best to do such partial change-outs weekly, with
pre-stored water... Bob Fenner>
2 questions concerning my betta... sys.,
comp. 10/1/07
Hi there,
I recently upgraded my Betta's tank size to a 5 1/2 gallon tank from a 1/2 tank.
Also I have added two albino Cory catfish as companions.
<Nice!>
My 1st question is about the filter, I'm not sure if it's good for him or
needed, or if he likes it. Since most of the time he's been really happy with
out one in his small tank before this one. What should I do about the
filtration?
<Perhaps a small hang on or in-tank power filter type...>
My 2nd questions is about his companions. I'm starting to think giving him
companions in the 1st place was a bad idea. I don't know if he likes them, he
seems to avoid them and doesn't like them getting close to him. He doesn't fight
them or anything
he just swims away quickly. Should I remove them from the tank and let him have
his peace again in the tank, or just wait it out till he gets to know them
better?
Thank you for your time.
Sincerely,
Joe
<I think the Corydoras Cats will be fine companions here... Bob Fenner>
Lethargic Betta, Env. 9/28/07
Could you please advise me regarding my Siamese fighting fish. I have had
him for two weeks and have been looking after his water as advised by the pet
shop owner. He seems ok - his fins are fine and he swims around and is eating
one pellet twice a day. He comes to the top when he hears my voice. Often though
I find him sitting at the bottom of the bowl. I thought he was sleeping or
resting, but am wondering if he is ill. There are no other symptoms.
Thank you for any help you can give.
Pam
<Is this tank heated? If not he is probably cold, and being a cold blooded
animal will be less active.>
<Chris>
New Betta-Kudos to Marineland
9/16/07
Dear WWW Crew,
<<Hello, Mitzi. Tom here this afternoon.>>
I seem to be sharing experiences with you all lately and this one seems
important.
<<All gets passed along, Mitzi, so what do you have for us?>>
Every time I pass the pet aisle at Wal Mart I'm heartsick at the pretty
little Bettas floating listless in their 5 oz plastic cups.
<<One of many reasons why I pass Wal-Mart entirely, Mitzi, but let’s not
get started on that one. ;) >>
There's 4 teeny slits in the tight fitting lid for air and that's it. I
think of my happy fish at home with lots of room, fresh water and good
care and feel so sorry for those Bettas. It makes me angry at our
society that is allowing it to continue.
<<In this instance, society “votes” with its dollars, Mitzi. Stores
don’t stay in business unless they’re patronized and Wal-Mart doesn’t
lack for people willing to spend their money there. Your indignation,
however, is completely understandable and I won’t detract from that in
the least.>>
I've been reading your sight so much the past month or 2 and "Betta"
kept crossing my line of vision in different FAQ's. I was engrossed
learning about these fishes I'd never really known about before. I never
knew they could actually live happily in less than a 10 gal.
<<A ten-gallon tank is about optimum for Bettas but they’ll do well in
somewhat smaller environments.>>
At Wal Mart this morning I couldn't take it anymore and bought a
beautiful blue & purple Betta male. I found a Marineland 5 gallon hex
aquarium that I was really impressed with. I still feel badly that it's
too small but it beats the heck out of what he was in at the store.
<<Nothing wrong with a five-gallon tank for Bettas, Mitzi.>>
I want to let people know what a nice thing Marineland has done with
this little 5 gal tank. The entire filter setup is in the hood along
with the light. It has a charcoal filter and even a tiny little
bio-wheel, for only $30.00! I thought it was a wonderful idea to have
sitting next to all these Betta cups. I've always loved Marineland
products, the Emperor & Penguin series bio-wheels are what I use
exclusively. I feel like this company really has a handle on fish and
this sealed the deal as far as my respect for them.
<<Marineland’s a fine company and, to give the Devil his due, it sounds
as though Wal-Mart may have lifted itself out of the dirt by marketing
these tanks, as well.>>
I also got a "2-15 gallon" Tetra submersible heater (for $6.00) that has
kept his temperature right at 80 degrees all day. The ph of the water in
the cup was only 6 and mine is about 8 so acclimation took 4 hours but
he's doing absolutely wonderful. He's ate and already comes up to the
front to see us. I also used gravel & filter media from my cycled tanks
to kick start bacteria, by the way.
<<Sounds like you’ve done a wonderful job with your new pet, Mitzi!>>
The moral of the story is that any one of your readers can "rescue one
of those Bettas" for under $40.00 with tax. About the price of a tank of
gas. It won't save them all and it won't solve the problem in the big
picture, but it will give that *one* fish a happy life. It
made me feel a lot better than just walking by and feeling sick for
doing nothing.
<<I’m happy for you in that and commend you for caring enough to act on
your feelings.>>
I'd have never garnered the interest in Bettas if not for the WWM
website and crew. I've read all of Bob's Betta articles. I think
"Robert" would be a good name for this little fish. Lol
<<I think ‘Robert’ would be a fine name, as well. Given your
reasons/passion for “saving” this little fish, I think Bob would be
pleased, too.>><An honour. RMF>
Sincerely,
Mitzi
PS I'm running out of room for fish tanks. But I was thinking.....if I
put the couch & TV on the front porch and made my family sit out there
I'd have LOTS more room for fish inside.
<<I think my wife had exactly the same idea a while back when she
suggested moving all of my stuff out to the front yard. I know she's
wanted a large, saltwater tank but I didn't know she wanted one THAT
big. Do you think I missed something? :) Thanks for sharing your
experience with us, Mitzi. I hope others will follow your thoughtful
lead. My best to you. Tom>>
Re: New Betta-Kudos to Marineland Pt 2 –
09/19/07
As a PS I went out yesterday and bought 3 more of these little 5 g
Marineland Betta tanks & heaters and had a blast setting them up & decorating
yesterday. I had to go to 2 Wal-Mart's because I bought out the 1st one. They
take up so little space and it's only a 20 oz cup of water to do a water change!
(I do the "daily small water changes" on my tanks). It doesn't get any easier
than that. I don't understand why only Bettas are sold in those awful little
cups and kept in tiny bowls, they're not the only kind of air breathing fish yet
the others aren't housed in such an inhumane way.
<The cups aren't as bad as the tiny little sealed pouches some companies ship
them in. But in any case, they're shipped like this because 1) they can be and
2) male Bettas can't be mixed in the same bag. Most freshwater fish are shipped
in big bags with many of the same kind in one bag. You can't do that with male
Bettas. Though, I don't know why the female betas are shipped in cups/pouches.>
I suppose because of their aggressive nature with other fish.
<It's a common misconception that Bettas are as aggressive with other fish as
they are with each other. You can actually put a male Betta in a community tank.
Problems could arrive if it's a small tank with passive surface dwelling fish,
but otherwise they tend to mind their own business.>
I know patronizing Wal-Mart keeps them in business, I wrestled with that. But
PetSmart & PetCo & many other places sell them that way, too.
<IMO, Wal-Mart should not be selling fish. I went in there once to find a large
goldfish floating dead in a tank with several other fish. There were a couple of
girls (employees) standing around looking at and giggling, each saying "there's
no way I'm touching that." I grabbed a paper towel from behind them, lifted up
the barrier and pulled the fish out and threw it away. I looked at them and
explained that you can't leave a dead fish in a small tank like that or else
everything will die. One of them just shrugged, thanked me and said they just
weren't "that brave." Give me a break!! Ugh. But anyway, there are so many other
reasons not to shop at Wal-Mart, but if you want that rant you'll have to email
me personally. :)>
I've got almost every kind of pet/livestock (over 50 individual critters total
if you want numbers-sigh) and I literally HAVE to patronize these places in
order to buy food & supplies for them.
So that's 4 Bettas that will get a good home. The only problem I'm running into
is not enough plugs ins but my husband's going to wire some into the walls this
week :-)
These places are going to sell these fish whether I buy mine or not, that's just
a fact of life.
<Umm... if we're still talking about Wal-Mart, then you might be wrong. Wal-Mart
is very careful to protect its profits. If people didn't buy live fish there, it
would start losing money on maintenance costs. They'll stop selling live fish as
soon as it stops being profitable.>
All I can do is all I can do. And it *does matter to these 4 fish. And it
matters to the other fish because of all the people I've talked to about it in
my travels in gathering up things to decorate tanks with.
I ADORE these little fish, they're so beautiful. And compared to all the other
critters and bigger tanks I've got they're soooo easy to take care of properly.
I could do 10 Betta tanks with my hands tied around my back and drink my coffee
at the same time before I even start in on the sheep & llama lol
Don't feel you have to print this, I just wanted to follow-up. "Robert" the
Betta is doing wonderful, I'd swear his ragged fins are already healing, he
swims around constantly. Judging by the way my Oscar is eye-balling him I
suspect he thinks it's his lunch.
Thank you for this wonderful sight. If not for this website I'd have never
became interested in these little Bettas or known how to care for them.
<glad you found us>
Tom, you'd better get your wife that SW tank in a big hurry or you might find
yourself sleeping in a tent in the back yard lol
<Haha... I'll tell Tom you said that.>
Mitzi
<Best,
Sara M.>
My beta is sad! RMF as well... Reading
9/13/07
I just got my crown tail beta 2 days ago. I have a little bow (it's less
than a gallon),
<... heated, filtered?>
but is bigger than the tiny cup that I purchased it with.
The first couple of hours my beta was so happy, he was swimming around, checking
every rock, every plant.
<Cycled?>
Then I gave him 3 pellets (I bought the same food that they where feeding the
betas in the pets store) and after a couple of hours I saw him staying on the
top, not moving, does not react at all. Just takes a little breath and stays. On
the morning I went to check on him, he was still standing up there. I wanted to
make him happy and what is better than breakfast. I was thinking if he eats,
means he is ok. I gave him another 4 pallets. Now I know, that was mistake, I
gave him too much food.
My poor little guy? is it possible to die? How can I make it better?
<Read...>
I also use bottled spring water, is that ok?
<Mmm, not likely, no... Water chemistry?>
Do I need to test the water?
<Yes>
How often do I need to change it since the bow is so small?
Please help, I just want him to be ok.
Daniela
<Read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/bettasysart.htm
and the linked files above.
Bob Fenner>
New Betta Owner Needs Help
With Tank Setup - 9/3/07
Dear WWM Crew,
I have been reading over the material on the site and am a bit overwhelmed by
all the conflicting information I have read on Betta habitats.
<Oh dear.>
I went and purchased a male and a female Betta at a local Petsmart, and also two
one gallon tanks with undergravel filters, airstones, nd hoods with small
lights.
<They tend to be kept apart -- the males do not "play nice" with females in
small aquaria. In the wild, the females enter and leave the male's territory at
their leisure. In the aquarium, they don't have this option. Result: spousal
abuse, dead female.>
I have been changing tanks with Poland Spring water, as our town water had
coliform contamination last year, and as it is still being chemically treated
with stuff I don't think is safe, I neither use it, nor will I give it my cat,
or the fish.
<Er, probably overkill. A mature aquarium will be filled with all sorts of
bacteria, but the "good" bacteria predominate, cleaning the water remarkably
effectively. Assuming you treat your water with a decent dechlorinator (one that
removes chlorine AND chloramine) the water should be perfectly safe for fish.
Coliform bacteria aren't much of a risk to humans in good health (i.e., who
aren't immunocompromised). Every time you wipe your backside after defecating,
you're exposed to them. So I wouldn't worry too much. Compared to the measurable
dangers like, say, getting in a motor car or having a fat/calorie-rich diet, the
risk of contracting a life threatening sickness from coliform bacteria is very
small. And certainly NOT a threat to your fish!>
My problem is that I have been changing the tanks every 7 days, removing 1/3
water, saving 2/3, and removing the fish with tank water to container, then
rinsing undergravel plate in hot water, rinsing gravel, then tank (acrylic small
1 gallon) and then putting all back together, gravel plate, airstone, then
gravel and filling with combo of old water and 1/3 new with small amount of
conditioning salt added by diluting it in 1 cup new water then adding it to
empty tank, then fish.
<Who told you to do all this stuff? Had they ever kept a live fish in their
entire lives? OK, in a tank with an undergravel filter (which is what you seem
to have here) you should NEVER, EVER clean the gravel with hot water. The gravel
is where the bacteria live, and you want them to be HAPPY. What you're doing is
killing them. Very bad. So, leave them alone! Change 50% of the water weekly,
but otherwise leave the tank alone. Once in a while stir the gravel with a
stick, and siphon out any detritus if you want. But never let the gravel get dry
or washed in anything other than aquarium water. EVER. And there's no need to
use salt. The ONLY thing you should be adding to the water is dechlorinator.
Salt doesn't remove chlorine, kill bacteria, or do any of the myriad things
people think it does. It's just salt.>
Now I read that I need heaters and bio-filters in big tanks!
<Yes, you need a heater, unless your home is maintained at a constant 25 C.
These are TROPICAL fish, and when kept at less than 25 C, they die. Period.>
Help!!! I am in tiny apartment with cat and have no room for bigger tanks as yet
and small budget-have disabled family member who lives with me whose monthly
meds run over $1200 per month, what can I do to make these little guys lives
better?
<Well, you could save some money by not using mineral water, for a start... A
5-10 gallon tank surely wouldn't take up much more space than a 1 gallon tank,
and would be orders of magnitude easier to keep (not to mention a nicer home for
your fish).>
They are growing bigger and are active, but don't want to stress them by cold
temps, warm in day but down to 68-70 at night and too chilly now that fall is
here.
<Too cold.>
By the way, people at petshop said to just keep them in a bowl, that they
survive in mud puddles, so temp and ph, etc, is no issue.
<Garbage. Bettas do not live in mud puddles. How would a fish get into one, and
why would it want to be in one? Bettas live in ditches, streams, lakes, and so
on. Usually among vegetation. Yes, they breathe air, but this isn't because they
live in mud but because the water they live in gets very warm, and consequently
contains less oxygen than otherwise. It's a back-up system for them, helping
them to stay active in conditions other fish find stressful.>
I test pH every 3 days is 6.8-7.0, but will get nitrate, ammonia, nitrite, kit
now also.
<You don't *need* all of these. The "big three" in my opinion are nitrite, pH,
and general hardness (dH, rather than carbonate hardness, KH). And a
thermometer, of course. Your water board may tell you what the hardness and pH
of your water supply is, in which case you can "wing it" and rely on the 50%
water changes to prevent any untoward pH changes in the aquarium. Bettas will
adapt to a wide range of water chemistry values, but like all fish, they don't
like sudden changes. So really, if you do that, then the nitrite kit is the only
one you need. It's the cat's Pyjamas for tracking water quality, and more useful
than either ammonia or nitrate for a variety of reasons.>
Any ideas on tanks/heaters on very tight budget?
Thanks, CJ
<Well, I've told you what you need (and need to do). But a fish is just like any
other animal -- at some point, expense is unavoidable. Hope this helps, Neale>
Re: New Betta Owner Needs
Help With Tank Setup - 9/3/07
Hi WWM Crew,
<Hello CJ,>
Thanks for the swift reply. No, I don't have them in the same tank, 2 separate
1-1/2 gallon tanks w/undergravel filters & airstones, nd thermometers on the
tanks the ones that are stick-on strips with temp. range of 64-86. They are in
warm part of house, no windows, drafts, nearby but house is cooler in fall so
will have to get heaters right away.
<Agreed; while they tolerate a certain amount of temperature variation, the
night-time temperature shouldn't drop below much below 22C. In the wild, while
air temperature may drop well below that, the water temperature won't, because
water is thermally very stable (it tends to lose/gain heat very slowly). The
tiny conditions in an aquarium don't replicate this, so fish tanks lose/gain
heat much more slowly than anything most fish are adapted to. This is why we
need aquarium heaters. By all means switch it down to a low setting in summer,
and let your fish enjoy a natural variation in temperature (I do this every
summer) but otherwise aim for variation no greater than 22-26C or thereabouts.>
I wasn't concerned about the coliform, it was over a year ago, but the state
mandated the town over chlorinate and add other chemicals to our town water, and
it smells like a Clorox bottle when you turn on the tap.
<It's probably fine. Add a good dechlorinator that removes chloramine as well as
chlorine. If in doubt, telephone your water board or check their web site. Your
water can't be any less "natural" than the water offered in London (famously
been through 7 people on average before you drink it!) and fish do fine here.>
Also they had a contamination incident with paint thinner, so given their track
record on water safety, we buy bottled for the past few years. I am concerned
about giving
it to fish, pets or humans so we buy bottled by the case.
<Well, this is your choice. But if you're asking me, "is the water safe for my
fish", the answer is almost certainly yes, provided you treat with a decent
dechlorinator. Money saved here (on something at best optional rather than
vital) could be spent on essential things like heaters, filters, bigger tanks,
etc in due course.>
As far as rinsing the gravel filter plate and gravel, bad info from pet store
folks.
<I assumed as much.>
I didn't mean to infer that Bettas could live well in mud puddles, just trying
to let folks know the attitude the folks at the pet store have about the
creatures they are selling to the public.
<Indeed.>
I had not seen all the info on the site about heated fully cycled tanks before I
bought these two, so we will read up and if we can we will get bigger, heated,
tanks and let them cycle prior to introducing our fish to them.
<Very good.>
Thank your for your quick reply, CJ
<No problem. Enjoy your fishkeeping. Cheers, Neale>
Strange Fins, Betta, env.
dis. 8/30/07
Hello, and thanks ahead for your website!
<Welcome>
I'm the new owner of a male LPS (local pet store) betta. After only about a
week-and-a-half, I'm seeing something I haven't found on any of your FAQs. Tai's
tail and fins seem to have partially rolled up and come to a point, and the tail
has also twisted a bit. There appears to be no discoloration, no tears or
scalloping in his fins, his color is good and unchanged as is his appetite. I'm
probably watching him 'way too close, because he seems a tiny bit less active.
He usually knows when I'm watching and becomes frisky to get attention. Tai is
in a 2 and ½ gallon tank with silk plants, smooth bottom gravel and a hidey-hole
toy.
<Is this world heated, filtered?>
The temperature is a regular 78 degrees,
<How?>
ph is good,
<What?>
I use Amquel + and Novaqua, and a small amount of salt
<I would not do this continuously>
in the water before he gets it. There's no filter
<Trouble>
in the tank but I've been doing 20-50 percent water changes every other day, and
a complete water change once a week.
<Not a good practice>
Of course, we're only talking about less than 2 weeks! I don't want to use the
wrong medication, and can't tell if it's bacterial, fungal, or nothing at all.
Do you have any ideas?
<All sorts>
Thanks again for any help or reassurance you can give!
Beth Rogers
<Read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/bettasysart.htm
and the linked files above.
The environment... likely metabolite poisoning... Bob Fenner>
Re: Strange Fins, Betta
– 08/31/07
Thanks for the reply - I stay confused I guess! I'd thought frequent partial
water changes were a good thing.
<Mmm, not this much nor this frequently... Please read where you were referred
to>
The temperature is regulated at 78 degrees via a small heater on a timer and a
thermometer.
<Good>
The ph is good (I used a test kit) at 7.0 to 7.2,
<Good>
and the ammonia is low (another test kit).
<Should be zero... undetectable. Any present is harmful>
So the problem must be the water changing. Will a filterless tank cycle?
<Yes...>
What is metabolite poisoning?
<Mmm, biological process accumulation that is deleterious to the organisms
health>
Thanks again! -Beth
<Welcome! BobF>
Tiny white bugs/crustaceans,
FW... 8/29/07
Hi. Hope you can help me with this one!
<Will try.>
I have a 5 gallon freshwater aquarium with a betta fish in it. A few months ago
I noticed a few things:
1) tiny white bugs, barely visible to the naked eye, that swim/jump through the
water and sometimes scoot along the surface of the glass
<Those are very small insects or insect-like animals. Thrips, collembolans,
mites, and so on. Harmless.>
2) tiny things that stick to the glass and plants. They remind me of barnacles
more than anything else. They are scale-like, flat, transparent beige in color,
and have a small red-orange colored center. They start out as specks on the
glass and progressively grow bigger, to about the size of a pin-head. They have
a hard outer "shell"....I know because I've been killing them off as best I can
("crunch"), but they continue to multiply.
<Sounds like snails of some sort. Basically harmless.>
3) tiny red-orange bugs that jump/scoot on the surface of the water, which
remind me of mites or water spiders or chiggers.
<Again, some sort of harmless arthropod. Quite possible red mites.>
I have no idea what any of these are, and my internet research thus far has not
helped. I'm wondering it is it possibly a single organism that I am witnessing
at different points in it's life growth cycle??
<No, not really. Aquaria become ecosystems of a sort, and animals in house
attracted to warm, damp places congregate on them. Hence you find the same sorts
of things on the aquarium as you'll find in the bathroom.>
A few weeks ago I did a major overhaul of my tank. I boiled the gravel,
driftwood, and filtration components. I threw away all the plants. I replaced
all but about 10% of the water. Two weeks later, there are tons more of the
white bugs, and I'm seeing more and more of the "scale" looking things on the
glass everyday.
<You can't get rid of them. Remove them, and more will move in from your house.
I'm guessing your tank doesn't have a proper filter; these little arthropods
don't tend to be such a pest where the surface of the water is agitated by a
filter. In "bowl" type situations, the still water surface is a perfect habitat
for them. Furthermore, in betta bowls the water tends to have lots of nitrate
and organic material in it because the volume is so small, and this encourages
the growth of algae and molds. It is these that the little arthropods are
feeding on. In bigger tanks with proper filtration, there's less of this stuff,
and so the arthropods are less of a big deal.>
These critters are such an EYE-SORE and NUISANCE in my Betta's home. Can you
please help me diagnose this infestation and how I can get rid of them?
<You can't. Learn to love them.>
With gratitude,
Shawna B.
<Hope this helps, Neale>
Re: tiny white
bugs/crustaceans 8/29/07
Thanks for your response about the critters in my tank. I believe a partial
solution would be running the filter more often.....I only currently run it a
few hours a day.
<Arghhh! Why are you running the filter only a few hours per day? That's not how
you use a filter, and all you're doing is killing off the "good" bacteria every
time you switch the power off. A filter should run 24/7 -- end of story.>
Also, I've heard to get rid of snails you can add copper to the water? They are
the major eye-sore of the tank. Can you confirm this and suggest any products
that accomplish that?
<You heard wrong. Copper is toxic to crustaceans (which you don't have) and to a
lesser extent to fish. Snails are largely indifferent to it, and you'll kill the
fish long before the snails get bothered by it. Learn to live with them. Remove
them by hand if you want. Otherwise just let them be. Snails only increase their
numbers in "dirty" tanks. Snails eat leftover food and algae. If there's a
surplus of leftover food especially they will turn that into more snails. In a
clean tank, they don't have enough food to breed all that quickly. Show me a
person with a "snail problem" and I'll show you a person who overfeeds their
fishes or doesn't clean their aquaria properly. It's as simple as that: basic
laws of physics; without the extra energy from surplus food, the snails could
reproduce as quickly. So, take the snails for what they are -- a symptom of
another problem. Act accordingly, and you'll find the snail population will
gradually decline to the point where you'll view them as harmless additions to
your aquarium.>
Thanks again!!
<No problems, Neale.>
Re: tiny white
bugs/crustaceans 8/30/07
Hi Neale ~~~
<Shawna,>
Again, I really appreciate your help and advice on the unwanted critters I have.
However, I am not sure that a "dirty tank due to overfeeding" is the problem. I
have a single betta in a 5 gallon tank, who gets about 4 pellets of betta food
twice a day, and eats it all within about a minute. I generally clean the tank
every 4 weeks.
<A properly maintained tank shouldn't need "cleaning" this often. Betta bowls
are different I admit, but really, it's the water that needs replacing regularly
not the tank decorations. Now, as for the role of food, uneaten or otherwise:
snails simply cannot multiply in a tank with no food added. Try it yourself some
time. Put a few pond snails in a bowl and don't add any food. See how quickly
they multiply. They won't. Except maybe for algae, there's nothing for them to
eat, and they starve. Basic biology. The reason snails prosper in fish tanks is
that the food (and to some degree fish faeces) provides them with high-protein
fodder. They multiply at a rate directly proportional to the amount of food
available. It really is that simple. Now, it doesn't sound like you're
overfeeding your fish, I admit, so perhaps the food source is something else.
Decaying plants perhaps?>
I am really stumped....because as I mentioned about 2 weeks ago, I scoured the
tank and boiled everything in it (with the exception of the fish of course!) To
see such a dramatic re-appearance of the crusty-scale-like critters in such a
short period of time.....in a clean tank....with no plants....well, I just don't
get it. Believe me, I have seen small aquarium snails before, and what I have
looks different. I wouldn't mind a few snails, but these guys are prolific in
numbers....still multiplying....and make the tank look sick and infested.
<Need photo. There are very few other shelled invertebrates that live in
freshwater. Ostracods perhaps, but they're very distinctive and don't "turn up"
announced. Snails are really the only common shelled stowaways in freshwater
tanks. Nematodes and flatworms can be a pest, but they're wormy, not
snail-like.>
I had no idea I needed to run the filter all day, and I can see now how that
could create a stagnant environment for unwanted critters and such. I was not
doing so because I thought my betta liked to have calm waters most of the time.
I will change that habit immediately. But the snail-scale like things have got
to go!!
<OK.>
I plan to clean and scour and boil everything in the tank again, in hopes that I
can further reduce or eliminate the problem. If you have any additional
thoughts, I would greatly appreciate your feedback.
<Waste of time. Assuming these "critters" got in by themselves and are
prospering under whatever conditions you have, my assumption would be if you
clean the tank, they'll be back to full strength in a month. So I'd tend to
reflect more on filtration, water changes, removal of potential food (dead
plants for example) and so on.>
Thanks so much.
Shawna
<Cheers, Neale>
Vitamin and Mineral Pyramid
for Betta 8/20/07
Hi WWM Crew,
<Jean, Jean, Bettas are blue... well, some of them.>
Recently, I purchased from a Pet store a vitamin and mineral pyramid made by
Aquarium Pharmaceuticals, Inc. I wanted to cut the pyramid in half and put half
of it into my 6.6 gallon tank, which is occupied by a Betta and the other half
in a 5 1/2 gallon tank which is occupied by three Zebra Danios.
My question is: is this vitamin and mineral pyramid safe to use on a Betta and
three Danios? Please give advise. Thanks in advance for your continued help.
Jean.
<Mmm, likely so... but also likely unnecessary. Is the water you use mineral
deficient? I'd just do regular water changes... Bob Fenner>
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