Can you help me identify goby sp 8/24/17
Hello crew, as always, i hope you are doing fine.
This time i am writing to you in hopes you can help me identify a certain goby
my LFS has brought in. They said they were collected from a local river that's
probably 40 km away from the sea. The only photo i have is the one posted on
their FB page. This is El Salvador, central America, most water here is ph 7.8
or up. GH and KH come at the minimum of 6 and 6 and maximum of 16 and 14
depending on where you are (i have taken the time to test several tap waters
from across the country).
Are these a freshwater? or strictly brackish water specimens? i have a national
biotope tank that could use a couple of these guys.
<Almost certainly something from the Sicydiinae subfamily of gobies. At first
glance I'd have said (a female) Stiphodon; look at female Stiphodon
maculidorsalis for example. But Stiphodon are from Asia and various Pacific
islands, not the Americas. However, while Sicydium species are found in the
Americas, only one, Sicydium multipunctatum, is reported by Fishbase to occur in
El Salvador. You could start at Fishbase, here:
Yet your fish doesn't look much like Sicydium multipunctatum to me! It "feels"
like a Stiphodon in all honesty, which is annoying. Could this fish have been
purchased from a tropical fish shop and somehow confused with specimens
collected locally? In any event, Stiphodon and Sicydium are very consistent in
requirements. Freshwater, moderate to high water current, lots of oxygen. Feed
primarily on 'aufwuchs' so some combination of algae and small invertebrates
required. Sociable, though the males are mildly territorial. Good for Hillstream
biotope tanks, not really suitable for general communities. Complex life cycle
whereby eggs are laid in freshwater, hatchlings are planktonic and drift to sea,
develop at sea, then metamorphose into baby fish able to swim into estuaries and
upstream to mountain streams.>
Not our pic
Re: Can you help me identify goby sp
Hello. Thanks for the reply.
I might give them a try myself. They have been sitting in the fish store for
about a month now. Nobody´s buying them because people rarely get the oddballs
here. But gobies to me are fascinating (if only I could get Stiphodon
atropurpureus...). The biotope tank I speak of has moderate current. Lots of big
rocks for 2 female convicts and a Cutteri to hide, and a school of characins
collected in the upper streams.
<Personally, I would NOT keep these gobies with cichlids. Too likely to compete
for living space, and the gobies will come off worse. Midwater tetras and
livebearers should be fine though.>
It is designed like the upper streams found in mountains here. Strong light to
recreate the types of algae that are found there. So I may try these guys and
see if they work out. I have cultures of daphnia and have access to Artemia.
Would those be good?
<Yes indeed, all good. Provided they can graze slowly, these fish aren't
difficult to feed. The problem comes when they're forced to snap up food quickly
before the other fish eat it. These gobies aren't adapted for that. Cheers,
Re: Can you help me identify goby sp 8/25/17
Do you think they can be taught to eat sinking flake/algae wafers/granules?
<Yes, but not if they have to compete for them. These gobies are classic
'aufwuchs' feeders that graze slowly on wood and rocks. So they'll certainly
nibble at an algae wafer they come across. But probably they won't zip about
like tetras or guppies. That's why I say they're bad community tank fish, but
good biotope aquarium fish. Don't keep them with community fish that eat sinking
flake and pellets. But do keep them with surface swimming minnows in a
Hillstream tank. Minnows won't take food from the bottom, leaving the gobies
plenty of time to feed. Do research Stiphodon in aquaria -- they're widely kept,
and your gobies are from the same subfamily and almost certainly the same in
terms of care. Cheers, Neale.>
How many T. ocellicauda can live happily in a 41 L tank?
Hello WWM people. I know Dr. Monks in your group keeps peacock
gudgeons/gobies (T. ocellicauda), so if he's around, maybe he could
I have a new nano tank, 10.7 US gallons/41 litres, 45 cm x 30 cm x 30
I used to have a larger tank (30 us gallons) that I had to break down
and sell because I moved. Now I'm setting up this new smaller tank in my
smaller living space. Peacock gudgeons are my favorite fish of all of
the ones I've kept thus far, so I'd like to have just those in my new
nano tank. How many can I reasonably keep in this tank, assuming it's
planted and there are no other inhabitants? Filter is going to be a
power filter rated for 10 gallons.
<Well, a single male and 2-4 females would probably be fine. Since
they're not sexually dimorphic, it's not like you'd be stuck with there
dowdy-looking females. But if you wanted pairs, I think you might be
able to keep two pairs, but you'd need to be extremely careful about
having hollow ornaments of some sort where the males could 'stake their
without being in plain sight of each other. In 10 gallons, if the two
males decide not to tolerate one another, there's not a lot of hiding
space. So you want to pre-empt that as far as practical.>
I'd love to be able to keep a quartet of gudgeons if possible -- two
males, two females, if at all possible. But is that overstocking it?
<Not as such; these gobies aren't particularly active or heavy feeders,
so water quality should be fine.>
Please note there will be driftwood and plants to help break up sight
<Good move. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: How many T. ocellicauda can live happily in a 41 L tank?
Thanks so much!
Yes, I am purchasing two 2.5 cm-in-diameter caves to use for each male
to have his own space.
<Good luck; sounds a very attractive aquarium you're going to have
Peacock Gudgeon Tateurndina ocellicauda tank combos?
I have been doing a lot of reading and considering what to put in my 29
gallon tank next. I read your article on 8 Fun Gobies and when I saw the
Peacock gudgeon, saw him on YouTube and he is totally gorgeous and
friendly too. However, I'm not turning up so much about their habitat--
what would be a good biotope. I've read they can be found in rivers
though. I also read it should be housed with higher level fish so they
don't compete with food... but this little guy eats bloodworms, so I
wonder, could they be kept with algae eating bottom feeder like a Blue
Neon Goby (Microsicydium atropurpureum, Microsicydium formosum)? And
since they both occur in rivers, would the habitat of the Blue Neon be
compatible with the Peacock or would they dislike the turbulence?
<The latter; the Neon-type gobies (there are many) alongside the widely
traded Stiphodon species are Sicydiinae, a subfamily of goby adapted to
hillstream environments. Coolish water, lots of oxygen, and a diet based
around aufwuchs is what they need. Quite adaptable in the short term,
but long term, they probably do need quite specific conditions to
I'd read the Hillstream Loach works well with blue neon goby. I'm sure
he'd be fine with both.
<Correct; the hillstream biotope is what the Neon Gobies need. Unlike
the Peacock Gudgeons that are classic sleeper gobies (Eleotridae) that
favour sluggish if not still water habitats.>
My water is VERY hard, and it is high PH of 7.8. Can these species
<Hillstream gobies will probably be fine with it, since they're oceanic
gobies with a marine larval stage. But the Peacock Gudgeons really do
look better in soft water with a neutral pH.>
This tank would be a lot of work to set up... I want to add more plant
life and have large stones and get the algae growing on them. I am
talented at growing algae, lol. I could do stones in a small tank then
move them to the large one. I just wanted to check with you if my
parameters are good, combination of those fish are good, and if the
environment is nice for all of them if I create a biotope for Blue Neon
Goby and add Peacock Gudgeon to the mix.
<I don't see the two species overlapping. On the other hand Neons might
work okay with Rhinogobius species, despite their much different
For another totally different option if the above isn't the best idea,
I'm thought maybe Norman's Lampeyes and Peacock Gudgeon. I read they
tolerate a higher PH, but do you think my water is far less than ideal
for them? I also read they were a good tankmate for Peacock Gudgeon? If
i did heavily planted tank with both of those would that be more or less
a good idea than the Blue Neon Goby with Peacock Goby??
<Lampeyes and Peacock Gudgeons should work, though not in very hard
water; 2-12 degrees dH, pH 6-7.5 would be my suggestion. In very hard
water, better options would be things like Chlamydogobius eremius, which
are hardy and easy to breed.>
Anyway, below are the links but I'm sure you already know all these
species since you specialize in interesting types of aquarium fish.
<Well, have kept them, at least, and spawned some of these gobies
(including Peacocks) but not raised their fry.>
Thanks Neale, being new to this hobby it helps to look before I leap
when making a major change to a tank. And since it's only 29 gallons,
there are only so many smaller fish that like my water and I think I've
covered them all now in reading and near ready to decide and move
<Hope this helps! Neale.>
Re: Peacock Gudgeon Tateurndina ocellicauda tank combos?
I am sad about the peacock goby, but there are many fish I shouldn't
keep here. Great about the cool neon blue gobies which I was afraid I
couldn't keep!!! I am leaning towards this hillstream theme now. I like
the idea of a river biotope. I would like to stock 5 neon blue gobies, 1
river loach, then is there a small schooling fish, 1- 1.5" range, that
current and water type?
<Pretty much any streamlined barb, Danio or Rasbora will thrive in this.
White Cloud Mountain Minnows and their Vietnamese relatives, Tanichthys
micagemmae, are also good choices with the smaller gobies and loaches.>
I have a few lime green Endler's in there now but afraid current will
not be good so am planning to move them to another tank.
<Correct; Guppies are adapted to still or sluggish water, such as canals
and ponds. Swordtails are more streamlined and inhabit streams, and can
work nicely with gobies and hillstream loaches of similar size, though
they will be competing for algae, so wouldn't be my first choice of
I looked at white clouds since they're common for this theme but they're
to 2 inches and I want a large school so I should probably go smaller,
maybe to 1.5" max. I am hoping to find a brightly colored smaller fish
to add for lots of interest and activity without overstocking. I only
have 29 gallons so I'm limited.
<Tanichthys of either species would be ideal for this system, and a
dozen or two wouldn't overstock a 29-gallon system with decent
Indeed, getting 18-20 minnows, plus half a dozen gobies sounds fine to
None of these fish are messy or big.>
Would either of the other 2 fish we discussed earlier, Dusty Millions or
Swamp Guppies enjoy this tank with high current? They are both
attractive enough I might even do a smaller school with them if they get
<Micropoecilia parae and Micropoecilia picta are both adapted to
relatively weak water currents, as the "swamp" part of Micropoecilia
picta's name suggests. Micropoecilia parae is a little more streamlined
and a better swimmer, but neither is an obvious choice for a hillstream
I am wanting a fish for midlevel tank activity with nice color and
playfulness in the current since the other fish, while beautiful, mostly
congregate around sucking on algae all day! However, I have never seen
either of these 2 fish Dusty Millions or Swamp Guppies locally and so I
would like to know several more common varieties that I could use, or
ordering...which I will probably need to do anyway for the neon gobies.
<You might look at Alfaro cultratus, Xiphophorus multilineatus and many
of the Goodeidae as possible options for tanks with brisk currents.>
How sensitive are these neon goby and hillstream loach fish to water
temps too? It is unheated and at 77 degrees right now at 6:30am during
August, our hottest month. That could possibly rise to 78 during day.
Outside temps are hitting 100 degrees. General the thermostat is set for
78 except when I am doing a lot of busy work or cooking sometimes I
crank it to 75-77 range, but the majority or time it is set at 78. The
tanks are in a west facing room. I guess I could purchase blackout
curtains, but I have a lot of plants in there too...I would need to
<Seasonal high temperatures are rarely a big deal, especially if you can
kick up the aeration a bit. It's the (lack of) oxygen that kills rather
than temperature per se. But 365-days of high temperatures are a no-no.>
I guess I could buy ice cube trays on Amazon and freeze prepared fish
tank water and drop some in each morning and evening? How many trays
would you suggest for a 29 gallon if this is a good idea? I would
probably only need to do this in summer, and empty corresponding amounts
of water too maybe at the time of adding the cubes.
<People certain do employ systems like this. I'd suggest a 1-litre or
similar plastic container (like the sort used to hold ice cream), fill
it with water, freeze, and then simply float as-is in the water. But
this is really only on extreme days. A few days or even a couple weeks
in the high 70s/low 80s isn't going to kill hillstream fish provided
water current and
oxygenation are sufficient.>
Have a nice weekend.
Re: Peacock Gudgeon Tateurndina ocellicauda tank combos?
Almost ready to set up this 30 gallon to a Hillstream tank. I bought a
2nd tank for the Endler's that is 23 gallons. Could the Endler's live
with some Norman's lampeyes?
<Yes, so long as water chemistry is appropriate.>
They wouldn't cross breed, would they?
I read they're related.
<Only in the sense that we're related to cats! They come from completely
different families of fish.>
I plan to have a lot of plants in this tank. Having trouble coming up
with companion for Endler's. Cory or Otto are small, but different water
requirements, but I guess adaptable according to LFS.
<Yes. Provided water isn't too hard, Corydoras and Otocinclus are
adaptable. Corydoras habrosus for example would be ideal, and after the
tank has been run a few months, a school of Otocinclus is worth a shot
(they need a mature tank with plenty of algae and aufwuchs).>
For the 30 gallon Hill stream setup:
I am leaning towards rosy barbs, attractive fish that likes current. If
I feed some boiled zucchini or peas in mornings and some frozen
bloodworm or daphnia in evenings and do partial water change weekly,
would this help rosy barbs not to nibble on Anubias? I have a little
black hair algae that showed up after I switched to led lighting and I
read they nibble this... Hoping they could nibble algae on leaves but
not plant itself.
<Barbs shouldn't do any harm to Anubias; much too tough.>
Other thought is to throw some softer leaf grassy plant in there too to
divert them from Anubias. Would Sagittarius or the other similar one
handle current if put in corner away from it? Or is there a better
<Sagittaria can do well in brisk currents. In fact most aquatic plants
with tape-like leaves have evolved for just such conditions.>
The neon gobies are so tiny and expensive too. Would barbs ignore this
little fish on the bottom?
<I wouldn't bank on it. Neon Gobies (if we're talking Stiphodon spp.)
get a reasonable size, but I wouldn't trust them with fish substantially
bigger than they are. A smaller barb species would be a better choice in
I leaning towards just having rosy barbs and a couple hill stream
I like plants too though....hoping I can make this work. If I got just
one neon blue goby is that alright? Haven't read of them being social.
<The males hold small territories, the females scoot about singly or in
groups. Much like other gobies, really.>
Do rosy barbs nibble crypts? Those are so prolific, maybe they'd divert
them from Anubias where damage is more visible.
<Agreed, but Rosy Barbs are greedy fish, and do get quite big, 10 cm/4
inches, and such fish will destroy small plants. Often the problem isn't
eating whole leaves, but biting chunks out of all of them, and in that
way weakening the entire plant by causing all the leaves to rot.>
I am hoping they would just eat the algae off the Anubias and leave
<Anubias and Java Fern are two good choices here.>
Thank you for your expert advice and suggestions. You are kind to make
yourself available to the forums.
<Most welcome, and thanks for the kind words! Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Peacock Gudgeon Tateurndina ocellicauda tank combos?
thank you. [��]
<Most welcome! Neale.>
Gobies... FW, gen., child... More re stkg.
Hi, I hope all of you are doing well. I have written before inquiring
about different fish and compatibility. I am in the process of setting
up an innovative marine 38 gallon tank. This is the
smallest tank I have ever
tried and now I kind of wish I had bought a bigger one, but oh well!
Anyway, I have a couple of questions if you do not mind. First, I know
for sure I am going to have at least 6 cories of some sort and I want to
know if there were any particular type of goby that would be compatible
with them that are also easy to keep.
<As a rule: don't keep Gobies with Catfish or Loaches. Gobies are bottom
feeders, but they generally feed very slowly. In the wild they snap at
zooplankton or sift the substrate, but in aquaria those two options
aren't available, so they have to make do finding stuff that floats by
Problem is, they're not adapted to snuffle about like Catfish or
Loaches, and without special feeding, can starve. There are some largish
gobies that are bold enough to compete with Corydoras, such as Awaous
strigatus, but generally it's best to keep Gobies with midwater feeders
(such as tetras or livebearers) so that they can feed properly at their
Also, I had considered stocking with white cloud minnows but decided
that they swim a little too fast for me. I am trying to find 2 or 3
types of fish that are hardy, fairly slow swimmers (more peaceful) that
between them all will inhabit both the top and middle levels of the
tank. I am leaning towards the sword and platy species. I know they are
compatible with cories.
<Yes, eminently so.>
I also have considered red shrimp. I know they should be kept in groups
of 6 and that I should get small species of cories to keep them from
being eaten, unless the platy and swords will eat them?
<Swordtails are pretty big and may well eat them, but Platies are worth
flutter. Generally, Cherry Shrimps do okay with fish provided the tank
densely planted so they can feel secure. Amano Shrimps are a bit bigger
safer, but of course they don't breed. I like to keep a special Cherry
Shrimp tank going in the kitchen where they breed freely, and just add
surplus offspring to my community tank. That way, if they don't all
in there for one reason or another, I've still got the original
I am sorry for rambling on. I will close with this: If
recommend a hardy grouping of compatible fish that will do OK in a 38
gallon (2 feet across) tank I would appreciate it.
<Have a look to see if your retailer can get hold of Ricefish such as
Oryzias woworae and Oryzias dancena. Hardy, pretty, easy to breed, not
hyperactive but always swimming about in the open. Also review the more
oddball livebearers. Limia nigrofasciata is one of my favourites; it's
like a cross between a Platy and a Sailfin Molly, but golden coloured.
Also look at Phalloceros caudimaculatus. There are lots of these quirky
out there, and fish clubs are often the best place to get hold of them,
often for tiny amounts of money!>
Thank you so much for your time and have a great weekend.
<Will try to, Neale.>
To Neale Monks: correction on something you've written re:
peacock gobies/gudgeons; fdg. 10/2/13
I am a big fan of your advice and your site. Thanks to your
recommendations for fish to try, I now have a thriving colony of
peacock gudgeons (Tateurnida ocellicauda). I had never heard of
them until reading about them in one of your articles.
So, I'm just writing in to correct something you wrote about peacock
gudgeons that I have found to be incorrect. You state on your site that
they won't eat flake or freeze dried foods. I don't know about the
flakes, but I can tell you with absolute certainty that there is
at least one freeze dried food my gudgeons love: freeze dried blackworms.
In fact, freeze dried blackworms are now the staple food I provide for
my gudgeons, supplemented with live grindal worms. They turn up their
noses at freeze-dried krill, interestingly enough. But blackworms they
They will even eat freeze dried blackworms from the surface of the
water! I just wanted to share my personal observation with you. I should
add that my gudgeons come from several different sources so I could have
a genetically diverse crew for breeding, but all of them still love the
<Hello Adrienne. Thanks for this extra bit of information (and the kind
words). Your report on Peacock Gobies eating freeze-dried blackworms is
interesting and definitely a convenience for people who prefer not to
use frozen foods. I would agree with you that adding at least some live
(or frozen) foods would be useful, because dried foods can sometimes
cause constipation in fish. Total aside, but for some reason my cat
happily eats bits of freshly baked spelt bread, and I'm pretty sure most
So I guess to some degree what you feed your Peacocks will come down to
experimentation and patience. So long as you offer a variety of things,
it's all good! Cheers, Neale.>
Re: To Neale Monks: correction on something you've written
re: peacock gobies/gudgeons 10/3/13
Cats eating bread is not that unusual! My two current cats both love
bread, and will even beg for fresh bread. A former cat of mine also
liked bread. I made the result of leaving a store-bought loaf in plastic
on the counter once, and the next morning there were crumbs EVERYWHERE
-- she had chewed through the plastic to get to the bread.
Unfortunately, my husband used to think it was funny to try to feed the
cats junk food, too. They also beg for French fries and corn chips now,
too, if they smell them.
<I do think they're going for the fat and salt here rather than the
Cats have a poor sense of taste but a good sense of smell (they can't
taste sugar at all, I believe) so likely get attracted to foods that
have key "smells" that would be attractive to any carnivore, such as fat
and salt (blood being salty).>
I have one question for you: how often is it OK to feed fish grindal
<A couple times a week is likely fine, but they are fatty, and generally
used as a "growing on" food for fry (which need lots of energy) rather
than a staple.>
Someone in my fish club said that they are too high in fat and should
only be fed once a week.
<This is certainly something often stated in the hobby.>
I would like to feed the gudgeons the freeze-dried blackworms five times
a week and the grindals twice a week. Is that OK? I also try to
supplement their diet with crushed baby Ramshorn snails, which they
<Sounds like a plan. Cheers, Neale.>
Red Stiphodon goby 4/23/2011
Local fish store just got in a shipment of what they are calling
"Red Stiphodon Gobies." I'm unable to determine exact
<Indeed, there are many Stiphodon sp. in the trade, including
"Red Neon" and "Sumatran Red" Stiphodon.>
Based on what I read in Neale's write-up on fresh/brackish
gobies here on WetWebMedia, these are larger than the typical
Stiphodon--I'm told as large as 3 inches as received by the LFS
Are any Stiphodon species that large as juveniles?
<Sure. Some can get to about 10 cm/4 inches.>
I don't want to buy adults since Stiphodon spp. are so short-lived.
I don't get many Google hits for "red Stiphodon goby" so
I'm having trouble finding reliable information to help me decide
whether it's worth buying.
They are rather pricey.
<At least some of their short-lived quality comes from poor care.
They do need coolish (~22 C/72 F) water and the right diet to do well.
In most tropical aquaria they rarely last for long, partly through
Re: Red Stiphodon goby 4/23/2011
Thanks Neale, I've decided to let somebody else buy them.
<Glad to help. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Apistogramma Cacatuoides tankmates
I have eggs with eyes on the desert gobies already.
One week after import.
<Great! Let me know what happens. Cheers, Neale.>
911 goby sick! 9/28/10
Here are pictures.
<Uhh, so blurry I can barely tell it's sideways>
The first white patch was noticed Sunday. Monday I saw it spread.
Overnight it's spread 3x. It doesn't look sugary (Ich) or
fluffy like fungus. It looks like a film or as if his skin is
turning white and falling off. Please help! It's spreading so
fast I fear by tomorrow he'll be dead.
<... read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/mardisindex.htm
and here: http://wetwebmedia.com/eleotridfaqs.htm
and quick. Bob Fenner>
Re: Redigobius balteatus food 9/7/2010
How are you?
<I'm fine Michelle, thanks for asking!>
I was wondering if you know if Redigobius balteatus are omnivorous or
carnivore? In your book Naomi mentions some gobies are omnivore.
<Well, they're more carnivorous than herbivorous, since they
feed primarily on zooplankton and other tiny animals. But yes, many
gobies will consume some algae from time to time. That said, the
upwards-pointing mouth of Redigobius is more consistent with snapping
at food items drifting by them than scraping at green algae from rocks
My Redigobius balteatus are now eating frozen Formula One, and I was
wondering if I should add Formula Two into the mix.
<Try it and see! Certainly won't do any harm at all.>
I was also thinking about trying my hand at some homemade food and was
wondering if they would benefit from baby food mixed in such as green
beans, peas, squash, or pumpkin.
<All these things would be harmless and well worth trying. Do have a
At the moment the only plant/algae they are getting is when I feed
spirulina enhanced brine shrimp.
<A good food item.>
Your thoughts are appreciated!
<Sounds like you've anticipated a fun project. Let me know what
Re: Redigobius balteatus food
Thanks! I was looking at that article, that got me brainstorming.
I'll let you know what happens. :)
<It's cool article. I think Bob F. has a similar one for marine
fish, and that'd be eminently suitable for brackish water gobies.
I've asked Bob where the recipe is, because I can't find it.
Re: Redigobius balteatus food (Bob, where's the Marine Mash
<I'd use the one here:
Okay, I found it in The Conscientious Marine Aquarist.
Bob mentions thawing out any frozen foods, and then later freezing them
again, is that okay to do?
<Yes. I'd just not have all come to "room
temperature", lay set out for an extended period of time>
I thought not. I do have some lobster eggs I'd love to put in but
they are frozen:
<Yes... okay to defrost to the extent of mixing... Bob
Re: Redigobius balteatus food (Bob, where's the Marine Mash
Thanks for the link!
Regarding putting frozen food in, I am going to use gel to bind it and
that needs boiling water. Will frozen food be okay with boiling water
being added in?
<Yes, though better to use alginate rather than gelatin... and not
to have too hot if having to blend in water at high temperature when
the other ingredients are added. BobF>
Identifying a freshwater (brackish?) goby --
I'm hoping you can help me identify a goby purchased recently
from my local petstore. The fish in question came in the bag with
a special order of loaches I placed and the fish dept head was
unable to ID what kind of goby it was.
<"Mystery gobies" are very difficult to identify.
The family contains about 2000 species, and many of them are very
difficult to tell apart unless viewed under a microscope.
Bumblebee gobies are the classic examples, being virtually
impossible to identify reliably to species level without access
to dead specimens and a dissecting microscope. In any case, if
you go to Fishbase, choose to display species, and then select
Asian Inland Waters from the pull-down menu (assuming it was
captured with the loaches) you'll get 360 species to choose
from. Yes, we're talking big numbers here.
For what it's worth, it might even be a Sleeper (Gudgeon)
rather than a Goby; Sleepers lack the fused pelvic fins typical
of most Gobies. There are a few hundred of those, adding to the
trouble identifying mystery species!>
I said what the heck I said I'd take it too. But I'm
running out of ideas for identification. At least one person has
suggested possibly a female desert goby, but the coloration &
head shape doesn't seem quite right,
<It's not a Desert Goby (Chlamydogobius eremius).>
though I'm pretty sure its a female of some kind as its
lacking in the extra coloration that males seem to have.
<Actually, it could very easily be a male, since it is quite
nicely marked. For what it's worth, rather few gobies are
truly sexually dimorphic; in most cases, males and females are
I've attached a couple pictures, the one titled
"goby1" taken right after I purchased the fish, its
color has darkened up significantly in the intervening months,
the other was taken today. Whatever the breed it is tolerating
freshwater with apparently no problems.
<For now, at least. I'd recommend keeping it in a low-end
brackish water tank, around SG 1.003-1.005. This will be
tolerated by freshwater species, and appreciated by brackish
water species, and since it's much more likely to be a
brackish water than freshwater species, that's the best way
to play the odds. Keeping this fish in purely freshwater is
It does not appear to have grown significantly in the mean time,
but since I've no idea which type it is I may not be feeding
<These small gobies tend to feed on small invertebrates, and
compared to community fish, they're not easy to feed. Live
daphnia, bloodworms, and to a certain extent brine shrimps are
all good foods (brine shrimps are nutritionally poor, so
shouldn't be anything other than a treat).
Wet-frozen equivalents may be accepted. Forget about flake or
pellets; these won't be eaten.>
<You could find the Goby Group on the Yahoo Groups and see if
someone there can identify this fish. For what it's worth,
going by the probabilities, this is likely a small (to 5 cm)
brackish water species that feeds on zooplankton and benthic
invertebrates. You'd have to be unlucky/lucky to have a
species that didn't match these requirements since most
Gobies sold as "freshwater" fish do these things. Kept
in a low-end brackish system with surface-feeding livebearers
(like Guppies) it should do well. Shrimps and Nerite snails would
make good tankmates, too. Cheers, Neale.>
Redigobius balteatus, S.E. Asian stream, amphidromous goby
After searching for several years, I found Redigobius balteatus in my
<A very nicely little fish.>
I am thinking about relocating the fish in my 20 gallon long and
putting them in there and tweaking the tank to be a South Asian coastal
stream and have read Neale Monks' article.
My tank already has a lot of Cryptocoryne wendtii with gravel
substrate. I would like to change it to silica sand. Would the Crypts
do okay in sand, and if not how should I keep their area in gravel and
change the rest to sand?
<Crypts do just fine in sand. If you can place a bit of a
plant-friendly substrate underneath the sand, and separate the two with
a gravel tidy, then so much the better. But otherwise, keep the Crypts
in their pots,
stick the pots in the sand, and feed the Crypts directly with good
quality fertiliser pellets every month or two.>
I am going to get shells for the gobies, what is the type on the front
cover of Neale's book?
<I think those are Apple Snail (Pomacea spp.) shells, but you would
get similar results using "escargot" snails (Helix pomatia)
that you can buy from deluxe food stores. Here in England at least, the
escargot come in a tin packaged with a dozen empty shells in a plastic
box. You can eat the escargot (very delicious, if garlicky) and save
the shells for your gobies.
An alternative that works just as well is to use oyster shells. Again,
buy these from a grocery store. Eat the oysters raw or steamed (or, if
you don't like them, chop them up and freeze them for use as fish
some silicone sealant, and glue a few oyster shells together to build
an oyster reef, a very authentic brackish water habitat. Google
"oyster reef" to see some pictures. So long as the two valves
of the oyster shell stay
attached, you'll find these shells make very attractive hiding
places for gobies. If wedged in the sand, gobies will also dig burrows
underneath the oyster shells.>
Besides driftwood and rocks, what other aquascaping materials would be
<The main thing is to *avoid* adding anything too "marine"
like big conch shells or fake corals, since these ruin the effect
completely. Instead, concentrate on things that might have been washed
down the river. Driftwood is good, but so are mangrove roots and big
water-worn cobblestones. A few shells used sparingly are fine, but try
to use ones authentic to brackish water habitats, such as oysters,
rather than anything you'd see on a reef.>
Would leafs, coconuts, smaller crushed shells like the ones in the link
<Used very sparingly: too much will raise the pH dramatically, and
this will not be helpful for your plants. If in doubt, leave shells out
other than the ones used as fish caves. Coconut shells work well,
with small holes made in them for fish to swim in and out. Java moss
attaches to them very well, making them look even prettier.>
For the first time I saw Crypt spirals (I believe Cryptocoryne
would those belong in this biotope, and what about Vallisneria?
<Both of these should be fine up to SG 1.003. The only truly
brackish water Crypt is Cryptocoryne ciliata, which will tolerate a
higher salinity quite well. But most hardy Crypts are fine to SG 1.003
at 25 degrees C.>
Any thoughts or advice? Redigobius balteatus seem like a charming
<They are indeed. Much like Bumblebees in maintenance, and they mix
well with most small midwater fish. Wrestling halfbeaks for example
would be lovely companions, since the two species would pose no threat
to one another, and would be feeding at totally different levels of the
If the tank had a large sandy area, one of the brackish water flatfish
might also be used, since again, these don't feed during the
daytime and they don't take food from the surface, so wouldn't
compete with either
halfbeaks or gobies.>
Re: Redigobius balteatus
Hi Neale, thanks for your reply! I will look for Oysters next time I go
to the grocery store.
I'll keep my eye out for Wrestling halfbeaks, how many could go in
a twenty long?
<I'd get a group of 5-6, they're not very big. Around 5 cm/2
inches seems typical. Try and get more females than males though.
They're called *Wrestling* halfbeaks for a reason!>
Also, for tankmates I read in an article you wrote that Heterandria
formosa could go with them, what temperature should a tank with the
gobies and Hets be kept at?
<These fish are pretty tolerant, and up to 25 C/77 F should be fine.
They do prefer cooler conditions though, so on reflection, if you can
get Micropoecilia picta instead, that would probably be a better
I've never had a sand substrate before, what sort of maintenance
does it need?
<Minimal. Because dirt can't sink into sand, it's easier to
see and remove.
A decent filter should suck up most of the dirt in a tank populated
with small fish like these. Adding a few Melanoides livebearer snails,
Amano shrimps or Cherry shrimps would help, as these little
invertebrates will do a good job of picking up crumbs of food.>
Would the fish be okay if I kept the gravel instead of going to
<They'd be okay with sand, but gobies do behave more naturally,
and are more fun to watch, with sand. Plants also tend to do somewhat
Are there any drawbacks to sand?
<None in small tanks with small fish. With big fish, there's a
lot of silt, mostly things like faeces and uneaten food, and this
doesn't get hidden in the same way as it does in gravel. (Note,
gravel isn't cleaner, it's just
the bits of dirt sink into the gravel, so you can't see them.) Big
fish also tend to swoosh sand into filter inlets if the filter inlet is
too low down. But apart from sand being more difficult to clean at
purchase, once in use, it's lovely stuff. Do see here:
Note that some sands sold for use in aquaria, such as Tahitian Moon
Sand, aren't suitable for use with burrowing or bottom dwelling
fish. The Carib Sea web site explains this nicely, but I can't
speak for all
My water parameters are: ph 8, KH 7, GH 19. Would the Redigobius
balteatus be fine if kept in straight tapwater?
<Not really, they really do appreciate a bit of salt. SG 1.003,
about 5 grammes marine salt mix per litre, would do a great job and
cost very little. Why risk it when keeping such rare fish? Do see the
section on this
species in Naomi Delventhal's chapter in my Brackish Water Fishes
Most hardy plants would tolerate this well. Do see here for some
suggestions of reliable plants:
There's some more on my Brackish Water FAQ, here:
Thanks for your help!
Re: Redigobius balteatus, sys.
I found some play sand; there was an open bag and the sand felt soft to
the touch, but looking at it seemed like the grains might be round. I
just don't want the gobies to get hurt with the sand.
<Indeed. As I say, I always buy smooth silver (silica) sand from the
garden centre because I *know* this is safe. If you think the play sand
is also safe, then go for it. But I obviously can't offer any kind
With minimal plants (if the crypts don't do well I will switch over
to java fern) how deep should the sand layer be?
<If you have Crypts, then the substrate needs to be at least a
couple of inches deep. With Crypts, I'd highly recommend putting
them in those plastic pots with rock wool, and then feeding them
monthly or every other
month a suitable pellet fertiliser. While I have never had any problems
keeping Crypts in sandy tanks, they do have big root systems and seem
to enjoy the soil I put underneath the sand. If you aren't going to
at least make a pellet of fertiliser available to them. Without the
Crypts and just floating plants or plants attached to bogwood, use as
little sand as you need. Enough to cover the glass and shore up any
rocks or bogwood is all you need. An inch should be fine.>
At the grocery store I found clams with shells but no oysters; I am
going to check another few out and see if I can find them.
<Good luck! You might also ask at any pet stores that sell marine
Often they have a few empty shells from marine invertebrates that died.
A big head of coral would look silly, but turbo snail shells would do
the trick nicely. Likewise, empty Apple snail shells from pet stores
Re: Redigobius balteatus, sys. 10/15/09
I decided I wanted to keep my fish in the 20 gallon and the gobies are
not compatible with any of my fish... so I have ordered another fish
tank. I am seeding filters right to move over to the new tank.
The new tank is 40 gallons. I am thinking about getting 2 100 watt
heaters for it instead of 1 200 watt heater.
Instead of doing crypts because they need so much substrate I am
thinking about planting Vallisneria instead. Would that work with an
inch of substrate?
<Possibly. I'm not sure I see any advantage to having one inch
of substrate rather than two. If you want the shallowest possible bed
of sand, then skip rooted plants altogether, and use epiphytes and
floating plants instead.>
Instead of putting soil below the sand can I use root tabs to feed
I read your article on substrate, would play sand wash out the color in
<Initially perhaps bright sand can wash out the colour of your fish,
but once the sand ages, and especially once you provide some floating
plants or large leafed plants for shade, it's less of an
No one carries oysters, but I can have them special ordered. Getting
hinged oyster or clam shells is looking to be problematic, at the
grocery stores they tell me to crack behind the shell splitting it in
half. They say getting oysters and clams to open is very hard. :(
<Steam the live clams or oysters. When they're cooked, pull out
the meat and add to whatever you want, e.g., marinara sauce. Then clean
the shells, perhaps by using an old toothbrush to scrape away any
traces of meat. Small amounts of meat aren't a big deal, and
obviously things like snails and shrimps will quickly clean shells up
Thanks for your continued help!
Re: Redigobius balteatus, sys. - 11/07/09
Hi Neale, how are you?
<I am well, thanks for asking Michelle.>
For various reasons it is taking a little bit longer to get the tank up
and going but it is on track. Couple questions if you don't
<By all means.>
The oyster shells are rather sharp, should they be filed down?
Also, when I looked up Oyster Reef on the net I see pictures of
hundreds of oysters together forming one long massive bed. Can you find
pictures of more like I should be aiming for when gluing them
<What you're seeing is what you're after! You can be
creative here. The idea is to glue the shells with the part call the
umbo (the "hinge") inwards, and the gape (the
"opening") outwards. Think of it like a bunch of
flowers made from oyster shells, so you're going to end up with
something that has lots of openings pointing in lots of different
Is there a floating plant that will work in brackish water?
<At low salinities, up to SG 1.003, which should be fine for
Redigobius balteatus, Indian Fern does just fine. Hornwort also
tolerates low-end brackish conditions rather well.>
Should I move my seeded filters and set up the plants and get the fish
in the tank when it is just fresh water and then adapt them to
brackish, or can it be brackish from the start?
<I'd set the thing up as a freshwater tank, and then raise the
salinity to SG 1.003 across a week, in a series of small water changes.
Filter bacteria are usually fine, but plants can sometimes be a bit
funny about being moved from one tank to another, even without changes
in water chemistry. The fish will fine in freshwater for a few
Thanks for your help!
Re: Redigobius balteatus, sys. 11/17/09
I'm going to get the sand tomorrow. I read that pool filter sand is
better in aquariums than play sand, do you have any thoughts on
<Hi Michelle. Generally I suggest people stick with smooth silica
("silver") sand from garden centres. This is cheap,
definitely non-toxic, and works great in fish tanks. While you can use
other sands, there's always a risk unless categorically stated safe
for use in aquaria. Cheers, Neale.>
re: Redigobius balteatus
After a bunch more searching I found the answer to my question on WWM
and I am going to pass on the pool filter sand.
Thanks for the great site!
<Glad we could provide the info you were looking for. Cheers,
Re: Redigobius balteatus 12/22/09
The tank is (finally) ready for the Redigobius balteatus!
How many should go in it (dimension 36"L x 15"W)? The store
has almost thirty of them (and another LFS has about a dozen more).
<Hello Michelle. They are very much like Bumblebee Gobies, so you
want to allow a gallon or two per specimen. At the same time, each must
have a cave it can call home, for example a nice snail shell or a
hollow ornament of
some sort. I think it's great your local stores have so many in
stock: these are lovely little fish, sadly not as often traded as they
Good luck with them! Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Redigobius balteatus 12/24/09
Just wanted to let you know I brought the almost thirty home
<I'm so jealous!>
They are really cool!
<Yes, they are.>
They spend most of their time swimming up and down along the sides of
the tank. I fed frozen baby brine shrimp which they didn't seem to
recognize as food, so I tried frozen blood worms which they slurped
<Nature's perfect food apparently... so many fish love them. But
they aren't incredibly nutritious, so do try augmenting with other
things. Surprisingly enough, BBGs go for tiny chunks of prawn and fish
fillet, so by all means experiment. Wet-frozen glassworms and mosquito
larvae are worth having to hand, and live daphnia and brine shrimp will
certainly be taken.>
Some of the food went into the oyster shells and I tried to get out
with a turkey baster, is their a shrimp that will act as a scavenger
and be fine in brackish water (it is still fresh at the moment).
<Yes indeed! At the low-end brackish these gobies need, SG 1.003 to
1.005, you can certainly try plain vanilla Amano Shrimps, and at the
lower end of that range, Cherry Shrimps are fine too. If you can get
(Caridina gracilirostris) that actually *prefers* brackish water.
There's a great shrimp website called Petshrimp.com that has some
very reliable species profiles.>
Most of them are very energetic. A few seem rather lethargic but I hope
they will settle in.
<Will take time, and there will be some squabbling over hiding
places. I dare say males are more aggressive than females, and
therefore more likely to be swimming about.>
Do you have any other tips for them?
<Make sure they can't jump out! Easiest way to lose gobies.
Otherwise these are quite adaptable animals. They're featured in
both my brackish book and the Aqualog one, so if you can buy or borrow
either book, you may find some useful stuff there about these gobies
and gobies in general. In my book, a goby scientist called Naomi
Delvental wrote the chapter on gobies, and it's really top-notch
stuff. She goes into behaviour, breeding and so on.>
Thanks for all the help you have given!
Re: Redigobius balteatus 12/28/09
<Michelle, thank you, and I hope your holidays were/are good
Some of the gobies haven't eaten yet. The store fed them live
foods, I believe black worms. If I feed live worms is there any
danger/problems that can go along with that?
<Live Tubifex can cause problems, but otherwise live mosquito larvae
(Blackworms), midge larvae (bloodworms and glassworms), etc. are
Brine shrimps are also good, though as a staple, somewhat lacking in
One of the gobies has secured itself to the back of the tank near the
top and doesn't move around a lot. Some of them are so busy
swimming they never stop and eat the food, and some sit on the sand
completely ignore any
food I put near them.
<I dare say they're organising territories between themselves,
and there'll be winners and losers. Take care there are adequate
hiding places for all concerned; a handful of empty shells (apple
snails, Escargot shells, whelk shells all ideal) can make a big
difference. Do read up on shell dwelling Neolamprologus (Tanganyikan
shell dwellers) for ideas.>
Re: Redigobius balteatus 1/11/10
Do male Redigobius balteatus fights cause death?
<Unlikely, but certainly stressed fish can weaken or starve.>
I'm assuming male because they are the larger fish and have kind of
<Sounds about right.>
I've noticed two (I'm assuming) males getting dark and circling
each other but they seemed to be displaying and not fighting. Last
night they were both almost pitch black and one had the other pinned
down on the sand, their jaws were locked.
<Much like Bumblebee Gobies, and indeed gobies generally. Since
males protect the eggs, they're quite territorial.>
I got them separated and when they both back into their shells turned
off the lights and put towels over the aquarium hoping the darkness
would stop the fight.
<Moving their shells, rearranging territories would likely work
When I turned the lights back on and fed them today they picked right
back up with the fight. I tried to take one out of the aquarium but
couldn't catch them. They eventually went back to their shells, the
fights have been happening at feeding time. I'm wondering what to
do to stop these fights.
<You can't "stop" fights, but you can minimise the
risk of them being fatally dangerous. Add more and more hiding places,
or else optimise the ones you have so they open in lots of different
directions (if a male can't see a rival, he won't threaten a
I have almost twenty oyster shells in the tank. They are the only male
fish that have taken up residence in the shell. The loser the in these
battles has a smaller fish that has been living in his shell with him.
So three fish total are using the shells as a home base and the two
males are fighting. I have been hoping the pair in the shell would lay
<Will, given time.>
The males live very close to each other on the same side of the
These are the shells they chose, there are shells all over.
<Move their homes, perhaps thinking about why this corner of the
tank is more attractive. Is it near a filter? Or far away from it?
I have a large piece of driftwood that I could put in the tank if that
would help create boundaries.
<One big boundary works much less well than dozens of small
real/fake plants, other shells, twigs, etc. might be used.>
I haven't put it in because I think it will make trying to take
uneaten food out harder.
<Ah, wouldn't worry too much about this. Once settled, gobies
are quite easy to feed, even if you need a turkey baster to squirt
frozen bloodworms or whatever into their patch of territory.>
Most of the other gobies spend the day swimming up and down along the
side of the tank. The tank is 36" long and 15" wide and has
lots of unused shells.
Six days ago a large male died overnight and I was really surprised
because there was no sign to indicate he wasn't well. Now I am
wondering if he was killed in a fight or because of an injury caused
during a fight.
<Difficult to say.>
Also, I want to start putting salt in the tank. The buckets I use for
water changes are also used on my other fresh water tanks.
<Not a problem. Assuming you empty the buckets completely, any
remaining traces of salt left behind will be trivially small and of
ZERO risk to your freshwater fish.>
Can I just add the Instant Ocean directly into the goby tank?
<No, you can't add salt in its dry form. But you can make up a
brine solution, and then dribble in what's needed a bit at a time
over half an hour. Let's say your tank contains 100 litres of water
(it's easiest in litres) and you want to raise the salinity to
1.002 in one go (which would be safe for the fish and the filter). SG
1.002 at 25 degrees C is 5 grammes of marine salt mix per litre, so you
simply get a jug of water, and add to it 100 x 5 grammes = 500 grammes.
The resulting brine can be dribbled into the tank, maybe 10% each time,
with a 5-minute wait in between to let the brine evenly distribute
itself across the tank. Actually, if you had a 100 litre tank, allowing
for rocks and gravel, you probably only have 80-90 litres of water, so
you'd more likely make up a solution with 400-450 grammes of marine
salt mix. You can play around with the amount of salt needed, and
convert into ounces and gallons, using my Brack Calc tool, here:
When you're doing water changes, you can then add 5 grammes of salt
per litre of water in each NEW bucket of water. So if you change 20
litres, each 10 litre bucket would have 10 x 5 grammes of salt added.
You should use a hydrometer of some kind to keep tabs on salinity and
to make sure your estimates (using weights of salt) are about right,
though you may well find some very slight discrepancy that doesn't
matter much. If you want to raise the salinity further, say to SG
1.005, do this by water changes. Each weekend, when you remove a litre
of water, replace it with a litre that has (in this case) 9 grammes of
marine salt mix added. So a 10 litre bucket would contain 90 grammes of
salt mix. It's actually very easy, provided you remember that when
doing water changes you ONLY add salt needed for that particular bucket
of water replaced, and not the whole aquarium.>
Thanks for your help!
Re: Redigobius balteatus food
How are you?
<Operating within established parameters.>
The Redigobius balteatus tank is going well. You mentioned before prawn
and fish fillet can be fed to them. Do I buy this from the fish counter
at the grocery store and keep in my freezer and when needed grind a
little up and
<That's what I do!>
Just want to double check, this is raw uncooked food?
<Either. You may find the fish prefer the taste of one over the
other. They like their tilapia raw for example, but their prawns either
cooked or raw.>
I don't want to give them anything that will harm them, so I wanted
to make sure this safe.
<Do risks either way. Raw food has more vitamin content of course.
Do remember that freezing doesn't stop the action of thiaminase, so
foods that contain thiaminase, such as prawns, become very vitamin
deficient over time. Read Marco Lichtenberger's excellent piece on
this issue, here:
Thanks again for your help!
<Happy to help. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Redigobius balteatus food 4/27/10
Thanks for your help once again! :)
<No problems. Good luck, Neale.>
Identification of this fish - 6/1/07
> Hi, <Greetings> > My friend bought this fish from
Singapore and he is not able to identify the fish. We searched
all over the net but could not identify the correct species of
the fish. It looks like a goby to me. It will be of great help if
you can identify the fish for us. <Either a sleeper goby,
family Eleotridae, or a "true" goby, family Gobiidae.
Without seeing the pelvic fins I cannot be sure either way. In
sleepers, the pelvic fins are separate, but in gobies they are
fused to form a single "sucker". (Actually, it's
more complex that this, but this distinction will do for now.)
Identification to species level is difficult because that is now
a species I have seen in the trade before. However, some
generalizations can be made. Sleepers tend to be of medium size
(around 10-20 cm being typical); very territorial; and
sufficiently predatory that they should only be kept with fishes
of similar size. The ideal sleeper diet includes things like
insect larvae, small crustaceans, and occasional offerings of
robust live foods such as earthworms and river shrimp. Gobies
tend to be smaller (around 5 cm being typical); territorial; and
non-predatory. Gobies almost always feed on plankton or
plankton-sized animals that they sift out of mud or otherwise
obtain somehow. Brine shrimp, daphnia, and so on work well for
gobies. Water chemistry is difficult to predict because there are
truly freshwater, brackish water, and marine species of both
sleepers and gobies. However, as a baseline, keeping any
unidentified sleeper or goby in brackish water at SG 1.005 is a
good idea. That will not harm freshwater species and will be
healthy for brackish water ones. Your fish has (to me) the look
of a young predatory sleeper, because of the long snout. But as I
say, without seeing the pelvic fins properly, I cannot be sure.
> rgds > Deepesh <Cheers, Neale>
Identification of this fish - 6/1/07 > > Thanks a lot
for your opinion on this fish. It was much appreciated. >
However, an expert on gobies has identified it as Glossogobius
giuris. <Cool. Glossogobius giuris is one of the very, VERY
few big, predatory gobies. As I said, *most* gobies are small.
There are 2000 species, of which fewer than 50 species are
anything like the size of the fish you have. I hope you have a
suitable sized tank for that guy, because he's going to need
it! My advice on water chemistry stands though, and behaviour
too. This fish needs brackish water and is very territorial.
Anyway, fantastic fish, and good luck with it.> > rgds>
Deleted. A "lifted" (e.g. stolen)
photo from the Net.
Might have a Gobi on my hands? Desert dilemma? 1/28/07
Hi Crew, <Doug> You probably HATE this sort of question, first
because I am nearly positive the answer is somewhere in front of me,
and lastly because I am going to ask about a fish I have no photo of.
<...> I am sorry for the inconvenience. I would
research the answer, but my toddler is screaming, <See to them...
write back when you can...> and the fish is in the bag and
floating. Here is the issue. I was raiding my
LFS's feeder tank for ghost shrimp, and was fortunately able to get
a few, but since invertebrates are not legal to sell in a pet store I
was forced to take all the inhabitants of the "For
Charlie" (Charlie is the resident Oscar that is too big
to sell) bucket, or leave it as is. Now in addition to some
ghost shrimp and a crayfish I have what I am told is a
Gobi. Is this fish better off with Tiger Barbs/Serpae
Tetras/Glowlight Tetras, or Fancy Guppies/Neons, or would it be more
humane to find somebody with a hungry fish? <No way to
tell...> For the time being he is in a 1 gal Betta tank by himself,
78 degrees and under gravel filter The tank has been set up
for 6 mo.s and is my seed tank for snails. Again sorry that I was not
able to research this on my own. I really tried, but I
didn't even find a picture that resembled this fish, and there was
just SO much information! Doug Alley <Not possible to give you
direction Doug... as this would entail just a blind guess as to what
you have... A pic next time. BobF> FW/BW Bumblebee Goby 10/10/06 I purchased a
'freshwater' Bumblebee goby three days ago and put him in my
Endler's tank, an Eclipse 12. <No quarantine? I just lost
upwards of 8 mollies in my brackish tank because of not quarantining a
new addition for long enough...> There are eight adult Endler's
in there, along with many tiny fry. It's heavily planted with
Cabomba on top and lots of java moss on the bottom, along with a small
piece of bog wood and a fake log. I have one tsp. of salt per gallon of
water and the temperature is 75degrees. The problem is the Bumble Bee
shows no interest in eating. I had hoped he would feast on the fry but
they swim right past him and he ignores them. I even witnessed a small
fry bump against his snout as it swam by.! He isn't shy, as now he
spends much time resting on top of the moss in the middle of the tank.
Any advice? <This is likely not a true
"freshwater"...There are two distinct species of bumblebee
gobies: Brachygobius xanthozona and Brachygobius nunus, the first being
able to better "tolerate" freshwater, the latter needing
strictly brackish (around 1.005 SG). See here for more info.:
You will have to establish a separate brackish tank for the goby, or
find a more suitable home (probably not the LFS, if they can't even
correctly identify him) for him. From what I know,
Endler's livebearers can't handle brackish water; you should
slowly acclimate the bumblebee, whichever species it is, to a more
suitable salinity. See also here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/BrackishSubWebIndex/bracgobioids.htm
Thanks, Gregg. <Hope I've helped. Jorie>
FW/BW Mis-mixes - 03/26/2006 First off, I just
wanted to say that I love your site and you all do a great
job. I was just wondering what you thought about the mixture
of fish I have in my 90 gal tank. I currently have 2 red
devils, 1 Florida gar, <Neat fish... illegal in many States... get
way big> 1 green terror, 1 tiger Oscar, a small Pleco, 1 figure
eight puffer, and 1 dragon goby. <These last two... are increasingly
brackish with age, size... should they live...> The
biggest so far is the red devil at about 7 in. <I'll bet! Some
of these are really devils!> So far I have had the tank for about 4
months with no casualties. Everyone seems to be getting along
swimmingly. I am worried though that with this size tank
there will not be enough room for all species when they reach their
full potential. <To put this mildly> I have gotten so attached to
them all I can't bare to let one go. (Unless it's for their own
good.) <You need at least two more tanks... and a lake
if you're going to try raising the lepisosteid> I do weekly
water changes, vary their diet, etc.... and treat them all with the
care they deserve. What do ya think? Thanks - Steve, MI
<A brackish tank, an easier going cichlid tank.... See WWM re these
species systems, compatibility... Bob Fenner>
FW Goby ID 2/18/06 I am trying to identify my
goby, I was wondering if you could tell me what goby is more popular in
the aquarium trade: a Dormitator maculatus or a Dormitator lebretonis?
Are there any other species of gobies that look like these? I think my
goby is either a Dormitator maculatus or a Dormitator lebretonis. He
has a blue spot just behind his gill on each side and a spotted line
pattern down each of his body. He is less then 2 inches in length. I
have had over 400 replies on various fish forums but no certain
identification. I have searched on google but no luck, I need to know
what each species looks like as a juvenile. If you could send me a
photo of a juvenile Dormitator maculatus or Dormitator lebretonis or
any info that would be greatly appreciated. Or if you could give me a
list of popular sold freshwater or brackish water gobies that would be
great. Thank you for your time and I look forward to hearing from you.
Eva < Dominator maculatus is the one that is written on the most ,
so we can assume that this is the most common one in the aquarium trade
too. Your description is consistent with the photos. -Chuck>
FAQ on Sleeper Gobies ... Butis butis ID, beh. 4/26/06
Hi, <Hello there> I was just browsing around your site and
noticed there was someone on the sleeper goby FAQ enquiring about
information with regards to a bony-snouted gudgeon, the
other common names duckbill sleeper and crazy fish were also
mentioned. This fish is Butis butis, the person asking
wasn't sure because of the colouration, Butis butis can
change colouration to match it's environment so its quite
variable and most likely was the source of confusion.
They're an ambush predator that generally feed on small fish
and crustaceans, and will generally only take live food.
They're from the tropical Indo-Pacific region and found in
fresh water right through to marine conditions (low to
mid range brackish seems to be optimal). They like lots of
overhanging cover to hide and ambush fish from, I find that mine
is particularly fond of branches, it spends most of its time
upside down clinging to the underneath of the branches in my tank
watching the small fish swimming past, waiting to pounce.
I'm guessing the information request is somewhat dated now so
this information probably wont be a huge help the person who was
asking but maybe it will help someone in future if you can
update the FAQ. If you have any further questions about
this amazing fish I'd be more than happy to help out. Regards
Kari. <Thank you much for this input. Will post along with... Bob
Fenner> Peacock Gudgeons - Feeding Fry - 12/18/2005 Hello,
<Hi, Jocelyn! Sabrina with you, today. I
apologize for the delay in response - responded on your thread on our
forums, as well, some days ago.> I was wondering if you knew whether
or not Tateurndina ocellicaudus (Peacock Gudgeon) fry would take frozen
rotifer food? <Mm, I think it unlikely. I would use newly
hatched baby brine shrimp.> My peacock gudgeons spawned on Saturday,
and now that the babies are developing but not hatched, I need to find
food for them ASAP. A little late to think of it I know, but I thought
getting microworms would be easier than it actually is.
<Indeed. BBS is your best bet, here.> So now I'm
trying to find alternate solutions. If you have any suggestions I'd
really appreciate a response. <What are you feeding the
adults? I had tremendous success with mine and Spectrum
marine pelleted food. Apparently, they rarely take prepared
foods, and when they do, VERY rarely spawn on prepared foods - I fed
mine Spectrum exclusively (tried many others, as well) and (much to my
dismay) the fish bred like clockwork. They were in a tank at
work - I was trying to get them NOT to spawn! Fish will do
as they intend, I suppose. Beautiful animals, aren't
they? Almost like a killifish.> Thank
you, -Jocelyn <Wishing you
Sleeper Goby, Zero Info - 11/03/2005 My sleeper goby is
vertical in the tank. He seldom moves his tail. The other fish in the
75 gal. tank are all well. It is almost as if he is standing still.
<First.... please.... everyone reading: capitalize beginnings of
sentences, names.... Second.... Keith, there is just not nearly enough
information here to go off. Please start by reading some of the
articles and FAQs already archived on the site, about water quality,
health and disease, gobies....> Thank you. Keith Stimac <Wishing
you well, -Sabrina> <<Thank you for fixing,
Bichir and Large Marbled (Sleeper) Sand Goby...Can they be
friends? 8/15/05 I have a 55gal tank with a large (17+in) Marbled
(sleeper) Sand Goby in it. He has been in it for years spending time
with just his feeder fish friends, and nothing else. I recently
purchased an Ornate Bichir and have him in his own 30gal tank. He too
just has the company of feeder friends. Is it possible for the two to
co-exist when the Bichir gets a little bigger( in the 55gal of course)?
If so how big should he get before I try it. He is about 9" now.
<Mmm, possibly... the goby, being in too small a volume, only kept
with intended food fishes, may attempt to eat the Bichir. Bob
Fenner> Goby ID 7/13/05 Hello
there, <Hi, Pufferpunk here> I just bought a goby. The store said
it was a Blue Gudgeon Goby. When I look it up on internet and click on
a site the picture doesn't look like the one I just got. It has a
few blue stripes on its head and neck and blue spots on its tail both
sides. Could you please tell me the exact name on this goby? Thanks
Cody <Try looking up purple spotted gudgeon, Mogurnda mogurnda or
Mogurnda adspersa. ~PP> Breeding The Marbled
Goby Dear Bob, <Edgar> I have tons of questions about marbled
goby since it caught my attention that seems nobody can breed them in
captivity. Can they be breed in aquarium ? <As far as I know,
Oxyeleotris marmorata has been in captivity:
This is an important food/aquaculture species in S.E. Asia>
what's the different between male and female ? <Perhaps a
difference in girth during gonad maturation?> do they breed like
gudgeon ? <I suspect you are correct here> how come I
couldn't find this information on the net? <It may be
"proprietary"... a business secret... or likely, a matter of
scientific, rather than hobbyist interest... You might try a
large/college library search: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/litsrchart.htm>
I've search all over the place and now I plea for your help. Edgar
Tjai. <Perhaps you will be the one to do this, write it up... Bob
Fenner> Freshwater fish identifications, ChuckR Hi there I
need to identify two fish to find out more about them. The one was
called a "black widow" in the shop I bought it from. Its
shape is very similar to a silver dollar. It is mostly black on the top
half of its body and the tail is silver. Aprox 2cm long. I've
looked everywhere for information on this fish but can not get
anything, except black widow tetra, which I do not think it is. (saw a
picture somewhere) < The black skirt tetra is sometimes called the
black widow tetra. If this is not your fish then you will need to
provide more info like a photo.> The other fish is definitely a
goby, no doubt about that. It is white with black spots, and a small
black "stripe" at the back of its top fin. The sizes are
aprox 3 & 5cm each. The shop owner said its a spotted goby and that
the female is the bigger one of the two, but alas, I can find no
information/pictures on what it actually is. It is a very shay fish.
<Look at photos of the knight goby (Stigmatogobius sadanundio ).
Males have longer fins.> Both are freshwater fish. I've got two
male guppies in the tank and sometime during today, the one lost half
of its tail fin. I doubt that it will be the "black widow"
because they've been sharing a tank for 2 months now. < The
gobies are capable of biting the tail of smaller fish thinking that
they are food.-Chuck> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanking you in anticipation. Jaco Ps. If it is a stupid question or I
can find the info somewhere else, please tell me so.
Freshwater fish identifications, BobF Hi there I need to
identify two fish to find out more about them. The one was called a
"black widow" in the shop I bought it from. Its shape is very
similar to a silver dollar. It is mostly black on the top half of its
body and the tail is silver. Aprox 2cm long. I've looked everywhere
for information on this fish but can not get anything, except black
widow tetra, which I do not think it is. (saw a picture somewhere)
<Likely a Black Skirt Tetra... there are varieties, differences
within this species: http://freshaquarium.about.com/cs/characins2/a/blackwidow.htm>
The other fish is definitely a goby, no doubt about that. It is white
with black spots, and a small black "stripe" at the back of
its top fin. The sizes are aprox 3 & 5 cm each. The shop owner said
its a spotted goby and that the female is the bigger one of the two,
but alas, I can find no information/pictures on what it actually is. It
is a very shy fish. <Maybe a knight goby: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/BrackishSubWebIndex/bracgobioids.htm>
Both are freshwater fish. I've got two male guppies in the tank and
sometime during today, the one lost half of its tail fin. <Could be
from either of the above> I doubt that it will be the "black
widow" because they've been sharing a tank for 2 months now.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanking you in anticipation.
Jaco Ps. If it is a stupid question or I can find the info somewhere
else, please tell me so. <Be chatting, Bob Fenner who encourages you
to investigate before you buy livestock>
Feeding Peacock Gudgeons - 12/15/2004 Hi, <Ahoy thar,
matey!> I have four peacock gudgeons, but I am having trouble
feeding them. <Not exactly uncommon. These can be finicky
feeders.> They are in a tank with about 25 Neons. At
feeding time, the Neons go crazy, scaring the poor gudgeons
away. <This is very definitely a problem. You
may find that the two species simply are not compatible.> Any
suggestions about how I can get some food to the gudgeons? <Well,
first off, the gudgeons may simply refuse prepared foods. It
can be a touch tricky to get them to take anything other than live
foods, at first. I got my pair onto Spectrum marine pellets
rather quickly; it took them a few days to understand that it was food,
but once they tasted it, they ate with gusto. On top of
that, they have been breeding like clockwork on just the
spectrum. Definitely offer them a very high quality food, or
start them with live foods if all else fails. Some ideas to
keep the Neons at bay - feed the Neons a floating food on one side of
the tank, and the gudgeons a sinking food on the opposite side
(Spectrum sinks, by the way). If necessary, divide the
tank. Best option of all is to remove the gudgeons to their
own tank - but be aware that if you have a male and female, they will
establish dominance over the other two gudgeons and possibly cause some
harm. These are beautiful fish, and well worth the bit of
effort it may take to get them eating. Good luck with
them.> Thanks, Nate <Wishing you and your gudgeons
Bulging Dragon Hi, I was recently on your web page and
noticed that you have a lot of info on dragon gobies. Well I bought one
about 4 weeks and it is doing really good, he eats, swims along the
bottom and has no apparent health problems. He is in a 20 gallon
community tank and when I bought him I noticed a bulge and it did not
hinder him and it is still their and it has only gotten a little
bigger. So I was wondering if you could tell me what this bulge could
be, how long dragon fish live and any possible way to breed them. Thank
you for your time, Stephanie <Hi, Don here. Hard to say what it is
by the simple description you are giving. But it is never wise to bring
home a pet that you know is not healthy. In fact even fish that look
healthy should be put in a QT tank for a month before they go in your
tank. Now that I got that off my chest, is the bulge localized, like a
small marble under the skin, or a more general swelling? A marble like
bulge could be a tumor which you can do nothing for. A more general
swelling would point to an internal infection of some sort. It could be
bacterial, protozoan, or even worms. Since I believe these are all wild
caught fish, it could be anything. Another possibility is incorrect
water conditions. These are brackish fish. They would do well with
other salt loving fish, like Mollies. Keeping them in freshwater will
cause health problems. Not sure of life spam and I do not think they
have been bred in captivity. Did not see any breeding info in my brief
search.> Violet Goby Aggression Hi, I just have a question
that I've been wondering about for awhile. I have two
violet gobies that are both 11" long (they started out at about
three inches long a year ago) in a 50 gallon tank along with a clown
knife fish, a fire eel, spiny eel, and ropefish. I'm
moving the other fish to a 130 gallon in a week or so and turn the 50
gallon into a brackish water setup. The nitrates, nitrites,
and ammonia are all at zero and I add salt after every water change
(25% once a week with a gravel vac). When I first got my
dragonfish they were completely friendly and stayed together all the
time. They still stay side-by-side constantly and act as if
there aren't even any other fish in the tank (they stay to
themselves) but, occasionally, they bite at each
other. They'll be motionless one moment, then one will
suddenly start pulling on the others tail or bite his body.
Their bodies don't actually get damaged, but their tails and fins
get a bit ragged. I figured that they do this because they
might both be males and have become territorial once they matured, but
then wouldn't they stay at their own areas of the tank instead of
cuddling? Are they maybe male and female and this is some
kind of a mating ritual or something? They also love digging
into the gravel to make caves and dens, so maybe they're trying to
create nests? I was just wondering if maybe you had some
answers. < There are no known external differences between the sexes
and they have never been spawned in captivity. They are territorial and
well known for their ability to bury themselves in soft sand. Your
observations may be a courtship dance leading to spawning or just two
males settling a dispute over turf.-Chuck> Thanks. Dayton
Freshwater Jawfish??? hi there, <Hello> i recently read
in the TFH magazine about the Jawfish. i found it's decorating
behaviour very interesting. this little fish would be just a reason for
me to set up a saltwater tank if i would have the possibility. my
favourite place in the house is in the armchair next to the fish tank
where i watch the fish while reading or just to switch off my mind.
<I can/do relate> i am keeping freshwater fish/ coldwater
species. even though i am living in Queensland/ Australia i do not heat
the tank or the room the tank is in. the result is that the water
temperature drops to ~14 degrees in winter because it gets quite chilly
here during the night. on the other side in summer the water can get
around 32 degrees easily. i keep a bristlenose pair together with a
school of 5 duboulayi rainbows which we find in our surrounding
waterways, a "left-over" goldfish and 5 bitterling with their
mussel in a 4 feet/~170l (42gallon) tank. my fish are doing fine for
years. they are growing and breeding although i don't try to hatch
the eggs and show their best colour. <Likely partly due to the
thermal fluctuation...> so far i found out that the Jawfish belong
to the gobies and in that family there are marine and freshwater fish.
is there anything similar in behaviour to the yellow-headed Jawfish for
the freshwater aquarium? cheers Silvia <Mmm, strictly speaking, all
"Jaws" are marine: http://www.fishbase.org/Summary/FamilySummary.cfm?ID=366
but as you point out, there are fish groups, namely the Blennioids and
Gobioids that have freshwater and brackish members that do display many
Jawfish behaviors (digging, burrowing... though not mouth-brooding).
You might direct your attention to some of these found there in
Australia. There are a few good reference works on native fishes around
you... as well as resources like Fishbase.org that can be searched by
region and water type. Bob Fenner>
Mogurnda mogurnda! Hi- I'm trying to find information on
a particular type of goby called a mogurnda, mogurnda. I need to know
the Latin name for this fish. <Hope this isn't
shocking.... The Latin name is
mogurnda!! Really. I'm not
kidding. Here's the Fishbase info. on this
> He has very unusual eyes- kind of a bluish-green. I was told he
comes from S. America. <This species, no. Most freshwater
and brackish gudgeons/gobies are from Australia and New Guinea, some
from Asia.... A handful of South American Gobioids, like
Dormitator maculatus, do show up in the hobby> Thank you. Lisa
Griffin <Any time, Lisa! Wishing you and your goby pal
Jade goby illness <Hi Laurie, Pufferpunk here> Good
morning crew. I happened upon your site this morning looking
for information on the jade goby. I am getting sorta
desperate. I have a 150 gl with two (2) 450 Fluval media
filters. Natural gravel and plastic plants. I
have put lava rock, slate and lots of interesting rocks (cleaned well
before adding) to the tank over time. It houses a variety of
Africans and includes a rope fish, a fire eel, a spiny eel (hand feed -
I love that) and a jade goby. The goby seems to have
constant eye problems. It started on his fins and I
suspected high ammonia as he spends a lot of time on the bottom, but
that is not the problem. <How long has this tank been
set up? What are your ammonia & nitrates? For
healthy fish, they both should be 0.> My eels and pleco are
fine. Only the goby. It seems to get better with
treatment, but then reoccurs and is now pretty bad. Mostly
just one eye. Typical cloudy eye as appears with typical
fungus/infection. I can not seem to get it cleared
up. I have treated the tank several times with an
antibacterial tea tree extract that usually works well on any fin rot
or wounds in the past. <Are you using
Melafix? That is what I would recommend. Also
lots of water changes, until you have 0 ammonia & nitrites.> All
my fish are fine except the goby. I would really like to
find something or method to treat and get him well. I love
my sleeper and hate to see him suffer. Need some advice on
what to treat in this large tank that will not affect my eels. <Keep
treating w/Melafix for a week after the eye clears up. I buy
the stuff by the gallon. It's made for ponds, but you
can use it on regular aquariums. With a tank that large you'll need
it, unless you have a cycled hospital tank you can doctor your goby
in. You still need to clear up that ammonia, it's not
good for any of your fish. I do 50% 7-10 day water changes
on all my tanks, cleaning the gravel as I go. If they
aren't used to that, you should start with 25%/day, until you have
the ammonia level at 0.> <Good
PP puffer treatment, garlic <Pufferpunk again> Thanks
for the reply. My ammonia is 0. <Then why did
you suspect ammonia as the problem cause? Are you testing
before or after water changes?> I have a lot of fish so monthly
gravel clean/water changes are done faithfully. <Monthly
isn't often enough.> Yep, MelaFix is what I use. I
too use a lot. Nitrate... will look further into
that. I also increased the temp and added more salt
in-between MelaFix treatments when I suspected the eye of starting to
cloud. I am thinking that a hospital tank with higher salt
content?? I have also been told to garlic soak my sleepers
food to increase immunity for future. What is your take on
the garlic. Thanks . <I've never used
garlic. I've heard pros & cons on the
subject. Some folks swear by it & others think it's
a waste if $$$. From what I've read, some say it has helped
w/internal & external parasites. See: http://store.yahoo.com/inlandreef/garxtrem1oz.html. I'd
increase water changes, as cloudy eye is a sign if poor water
Fishbase locked? (also goby compatibilities) Fishbase.org is
a closed site now! Whatever will I use for learning about my fish
anymore! *Overreacts* Eh, hypocrites. <you are mistaken here, my
friend... it is open and we have been using it all night. I just tried
it from the main, German and French servers. Do check again.> In any
case, I was looking to figure out a bit more about a dragonish, aka
Gobioides broussonenti. <read more here (follow all links at bottom
> When I first saw the oversized goby, I figured it was an eel in
any case. The question is if these gobies are aggressive or not.
<they are not... instead they are difficult to feed/keep
planktivores> My mollies and my Tiretrack eel are flourishing in a
very low end brackish aquarium, <you will need this or more salt for
this goby> the eel devouring blood worms like nobody's business
and even growing half an inch to an inch in only a week. What I'm
wondering about is if there would be a conflict between this 5.5"
eel and a dragon eel goby which is about 6" or 7" long and
considerably wider. <perhaps... but more importantly, the goby will
be outcompeted if not intimidated by the active feeding of the other
fishes. It is an inappropriate mix. Please resist> The people at the
store (PetCo, figures...), completely uneducated as to what fish they
even had, were not much help as to giving much info. I was the one to
re-educate them as to what they even were carrying, but still I
don't know what kind of behavior I would expect from it. In my high
end brackish aquarium my two small bumblebee gobies have the audacity
to compete for food with the larger green spotted pufferfish, which
gives me the impression that a dragonish would also be aggressive when
it comes to food, and more importantly, territory. <neither is
true/correct> There are tons of little holes and caves where the
Tiretrack eel hides (Road kill is his name btw), and apparently
dragonish don't seem to like to hide anywhere in the tanks at the
store. Can I safely house this big guy or would I just be better off
getting a couple of the knight gobies that I have been eyeing lately.
<the knight gobies are much better choices... hardy and tolerant>
P.S. I finally put in a couple of new 10,000K fluorescent bulbs to fix
my plant degradation, and now there is almost a mutagenic growth going
on in there. In only a matter of 2 days sword family plants have grown
at least 2 inches and my wisterias have gone from twigs to pine trees.
Thanks for the reference to that. <best regards, Anthony>
Gobioides broussonenti Hi Bob, A little helpful info for you
concerning the Violet Goby. The greatest difficulty in keeping this
fish is to adjust your salinity until it is suitably
"brackish". Feeding these fish is a breeze because they
simply love brine shrimp pellets. Very fascinating species, hardy and a
lot of fun to observe. They are so ugly that you cannot help but like
them. Scott Hill A fish enthusiast! <Outstanding! Thank you for your
input. Will post... and can assure you, you have saved many of these
fishes from short, hungry stints in aquariums. Bob Fenner>
Knight Gobies - Suddenly Dead (03/03/03) Hi, <Hi. Ananda
here, unhappy to hear that someone had bad luck with one of her
favorite types of fish...> I have a mystery that I am hoping that
you can shed some light on. <Will give it a shot...>
I have a 30-gal freshwater tank that has 4 dwarf Gouramis, 2 Bala
sharks (recently moved from another tank), a 2 month old rosy barb, and
2 knight gobies (until yesterday). The tank set up is
relatively new, about 1 month, but the rocks and some of the plants
came from another tank that has been running for over a year. (No sick
fish there) <When did you move the rocks and plants?
When you started the tank? Or just recently?> I have been feeding
freeze dried bloodworms, brine shrimp, and slow sinking pellets.
<I'm not a fan of brine shrimp, except when they're used to
entice fish that otherwise won't eat... your fish should have a bit
more variety than this.> Last night I discovered both gobies dead
side by side on the bottom of the tank. When I removed them
from the water they looked as if they had been dead for several
days. Their fins were badly decomposed.
<Hmmm. Badly decomposed, or perhaps nibbled-upon?> The mystery is
that they were alive earlier in the day (I feed some brine shrimp and
watched everyone eat for a while.), and showed no signs, that I could
tell, of illness. I have closely examined all the other
fish, and they all look fine. All the fish got along well,
and I never saw any evidence of the gobies being harassed by the
others. <I am curious about your water quality --
ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, temperature... the gobies, being
scaleless fish, were the most sensitive of the bunch when it comes to
water quality. I would do a water change immediately to deal with any
possible ammonia.> Should I worry about the others? What
would cause them to die suddenly, but not harm the other fish?
<Ammonia, nitrite, or nitrate poisoning would affect those fish
first. The others might not be out of danger, which is why I'm
suggesting a water change ASAP. Another possibility -- the rock you
took from another tank -- was it ever in a tank that was treated with a
copper-based medication? Gobies and other scaleless fish can not
tolerate copper.> Any help you can give would be
appreciated. I'm really worried about my other fish.
<Understandably so. Do check out the various freshwater FAQs and the
WetWebFotos chat forums. --Ananda> Laura Crouch
RE: Knight Gobies - Suddenly Dead (03/05/03) Ananda, Thank
you so much for your input. <Glad I could help.> The
rocks were moved when I started the new tank. (They were
white and my Pictus Cats did not like them so rather than throwing them
out I decided to recycle them.) I think you may have hit
upon something with the rocks. I had to treat for Ick about
three months ago. I would never have dreamed that it would
harm anyone. <Many things we put in our tanks have the potential to
harm fish -- even those that are designed to help fish. With any
scaleless fish -- gobies, loaches, puffers and others -- you need to be
especially careful what you add to the tank. You could probably save
the rock by putting it in an empty tank with a Polyfilter.> I did a
complete water change last night and replaced with new
rocks. Everyone else still looks happy and
healthy. I am going to let the tank run for a couple of
months before I add any more fish. <Sounds like a good idea to
me.> Thank you! <You're welcome. --Ananda>
Knight Gobies Hi, I have some Knight Gobies that spawn on a
regular basis. I get the eggs to hatch, but can't keep the fry
alive any more than about 2 days. I use infusoria to feed with. Can you
advise. Thanks and God Bless, Ed I will forward this message to a
friend of ours...Dr Sallie Boggs. She is a brilliant aquarists and
grand master breeder (national accolades) with a flavor for gobies and
blennies. Best regards, Anthony>
Re: Knight Gobies I had the same experience when my Knight
gobies were breeding. Then I did not have a culture of rotifers. Now I
have rotifers I use for marine fish and no breeding gobies. I believe
the goby fry could eat the rotifers . Both gobies and rotifers like
brackish water. Rotifers can be obtained from Reed Mariculture or
Florida Aqua Farms or a friendly marine fish breeder. If you live in
Pittsburgh area you can get them from me. Sallie
Fear, Fish Behavior I have a 5.5 gallon tank with 4 balloon
mollies and two bumblebee gobies. The Nitrite levels are good, the
ammonia levels are good, I have added salt to the water, and the pH is
fine. The mollies eat fine, but the gobies just seem to hide, and are
not eating. I do feed live foods as recommended. Is there a chance the
gobies are afraid of the mollies, and thus want to keep a low profile?
Thanx. James Kim <in such a small tank, yes... the gobies may simply
be intimidated by the activity of the more assertive fish. But
admittedly, they are not gregarious fish to begin with. Anthony> PS
How long before the gobies die? <shouldn't let them go more than
5-7 days without food. Do move them to another tank or trade them back,
mainly brackish gobies Hi Bob! Well, the spinning molly died
a couple of days ago. She wouldn't eat, even when I tried live
black worms, so I wasn't surprised. <Sorry to learn of your
loss> The ghost shrimp experiment is going well. They seem to be
tolerating the SGs up to 1.008 without much difficulty once they get
past the initial transition period. Some of them haven't survived
the transition, but in those cases, the gobies haven't complained
about the extra treats. Oddly enough, the candy-striped gobies
aren't interested in the shrimp, even though they are easily large
enough to eat them. I had an entertaining time watching one of my
so-called "butterfly gobies" trying to eat a ghost shrimp
that was bigger than itself. The shrimp got away for a while, and then
goby was "stalking" the shrimp. Quite amusing. I don't
know what the "butterfly gobies" really are, but they
definitely aren't true gobies. They look sort of like miniaturized
dwarf lionfish, mottled brown and beige and about 1" long, and
nothing like the marine butterfly goby, Amblygobius albimaculatus. Do
you know if this fish is a sculpin, or a scorpienidae, or is it
something else entirely? <Beige mostly? Maybe Stigmatogobius:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/brgobioids.htm> LMK if a photo would of
my fish would help; I don't have a photo of them yet since it's
hard to get the digital camera to focus on them (it's a bit *too*
automated). <Check to see if you can "turn off" the
automated (focus) feature... Bob Fenner> Thanks, Ananda
Ropes and Dragons Robert, I have a 45 gallon freshwater live
plant setup. PH7.6 Hardness apx10 Ammonia and nitrite at zero. I
recently purchased two new rope fish and a pleco (I think that's
what it's called). <Mmm, maybe a member of the family of
mainly South American Sucker Mouth Catfishes, Loricariidae:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/loricariids.htm> The two rope fish died
within two days and a day later the rope that I've had for 6 months
died. <Not unusual to have new Ropes bring in disease, stress... Our
coverage of this and the related Bichirs:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bichirs.htm> Then last night my small
dragon Goby died. The ropes got the "glassy" eyes and
discoloration before they died and the Dragon lost a lot of weight and
showed a large white section on it's tail before it died. So far
the other inhabitants haven't shown any problems; they are: a
larger Dragon Goby (about 6"), two Bala Sharks, 1 Clown Loach, 1
Pleco (algae eater), and several neon tetras. I did a 20% water change
and filter maintenance after the first two died and I've been
running my Diatom XL (normally for polishing only) a couple hours a
day. Any possibilities you can offer will be greatly appreciated. <I
would do what you have done... and add some activated carbon/powder to
the diatom> As a side note. I have already purchased a cheapy 10
gallon setup to use as a quarantine tank in the future. <Good
idea> You might also be interested to know that the fish came from
Pet not so) Smart. <Yikes...> Thanks Again Tom Peterson
Kissimmee, Fl <Sorry to hear of your trials and tribulations. Steady
on my friend. You're moving in more positive directions. Bob