Ich elephant nose
10/23/07
I have had my elephant nose Approximately 8 months. He has been happy and healthy. He has developed tiny white spots on his
pectoral fins and anal fin that look like ich. Is there any medicine I can treat him with that
won't kill him?
Thank You
Karen
<Hello Karen. With Mormyridae, the things to avoid specifically are Formalin and Copper, both of which are widely used in anti-Ick medications. So you need to treat Mormyridae in the same basic way as, say, Clown Loaches (see here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/clnlchdis.htm ). Anyway, the basic trick is this: raise the temperature to 30 degrees C (around 86 F). Oxygen level goes down as temperature goes up, so you need to compensate for that. Add additional aeration if you can, but failing that, adjust the water level and/or filter so there is lots of splashing and circulation. Now make up a brine solution in a jug, with about 2-3 grammes of aquarium salt (not marine salt) per litre of water in the aquarium (in other words, a salinity of 2-3 PPT). There's almost exactly 6 grammes of salt per teaspoon, so estimating how much you need should not be too difficult. Stir the salt into the water thoroughly until dissolved, and then slowly add the brine a little at a time into the outflow of the filter so that it quickly disperses around the tank. After a few days the parasites on your fish will mature and die, but the mobile parasite larvae will not be able to re-infect your fish, and the disease will go away. This takes quite a few days, but it does work. Increasing the salt concentration to as much as 6 grammes per litre of water can be used to deal with stubborn infections, but the higher the salinity, the more gently you need to adjust your fish to it, and the higher the degree of osmotic stress placed on the fish. Conversely, once you're done treating the fish, do a series of relatively small water changes over the next few days to gradually bring the salinity down to zero. As ever, do establish why the Ick became a problem. It doesn't come from nowhere, and is either brought in by unquarantined fish or else provoked into action by stress or lapses in water quality. With Mormyridae, prevention is FAR better than cure. Good luck, Neale.>
Baby Whale & Fish-Tail Rot Medication - 06/27/07
Neale,
<Hello Michelle,>
Thank you for your wonderful advice regarding the baby whale. Maracide is a
5-day treatment (today will be day 4), so far the baby whale and the snails are
fine and the ick vanished. Every night I siphon-up about 3 gallons of water (38
gallon tank) from just above the gravel, where I read ick parasites inhabit. I
thought about moving the baby whale, but he seems to have made a home for
himself under driftwood and our hospital tank is now housing my one remaining
gourami... who seems to be doing ok.
<Very good. Siphoning up the baby whitespot parasites sounds a bit unlikely to
work to me, but it can't do any harm I suppose.>
Also, we have a new challenge; it seems that the lovely rainbow fish contributed
not only ick but fin-tail rot. The betta finnage was devastated seemingly
overnight. Next in line are the Panda Corys (primarily the dorsal fins). I am a
bit concerned because about a year back I had one Panda Cory be consumed by some
kind of fin-tail rot bacteria that seemed resistant to everything, and in the
end there were no fins left... It was the saddest thing I've seen happen to any
of my fish, doubly so because I'm particularly fond of Corys (there about 3
years old).
<Now, finrot is almost always caused by water or fin-nipping issues. Sometimes
it does come in with new fish, but only very rarely. 99 times out of 100, it's
either the environment or persistent nipping by other fish in the tank. Given
the baby whale is OK, water quality is likely to be good, but water chemistry
might not be. Mormyrids aren't fussy about water chemistry (they're found in
habitats as varied as blackwater streams and Rift Valley lakes). But rainbows
like neutral to slightly alkaline, moderately hard water. That the dorsal fins
of the Corydoras are rotting immediately suggests fin nipping though. I've seen
this when keeping Corydoras with pufferfish (not a good combo!). Ditto with the
Betta; these fish are notorious targets for fin nippers. So, what's in the tank?
Anything likely to be nippy?>
I've started treating with Maracyn II (although, I've never had much success
with this medication). Today will be the third day. The fin-tail rot doesn't
seem to be progressing... I think, but I can't detect re-growth either. Would
you suggest I continue, or stop treatment with Maracyn II.
<Unless there are compelling reasons not to *always* finish off medications.>
On hand I have, Mardel's TriSulfa and Maracyn Plus. I've never tried a
sulfa-based medication before. I could also go & buy whatever you suggest.
Again a concern is the baby whale (who seems fine.. still slurping up worms).
<Like you, I'm pleased the baby whale is happy, and that strongly suggests the
basic conditions in the tank are sound. I'd personally be spot-treating the fish
with finrot by dipping them into baths of some sort. Even saltwater (marine salt
mix or uniodized cooking salt added to a litre of aquarium water) dips can work
to slow down mild finrot (seawater strength, for 2-20 minutes depending on the
size and species involved). An adult Corydoras, for example, would probably be
safe dipped for around 3-5 minutes. They are not very salt tolerant. Freshwater
livebearers and cichlids, on the other hand, are often much more salt tolerant
so you can be more aggressive with the dips. The idea is to dehydrate the
external parasites and clean the wounds while not harming the fish. Provided the
fish being dipped stays upright and stable, you're fine, but if it loses balance
or starts thrashing about wildly, pull it out. Repeat daily until things are
better. Finrot is an exceedingly aggressive disease, and untreated spreads to
the body, resulting in septicaemia, which is basically untreatable (and fatal).>
Cheers,
Michelle
<Hope this helps, Neale>
Ick treatment & a Baby Whale 6/23/07
Hello, Thank you kindly for your prognosis on the Dwarf Gourami. I'll keep
them isolated and cross my fingers.... and not re-stock with Dwarf Gouramis.
Another question: Today I noticed that one of the rainbow fish (Red Rainbow
female) has 2 tiny white spots... sweet mother of science, I fear ick. She's a
relatively new introduction to the tank (4 days) but was quarantined for 8 days
prior to being introduced. If ick, I've previously had success with Mardel's
Maracide Concentrate... but what about the Baby Whale who lives in the tank
(I've had him for about 8 months now... a healthy happy 4 inch Mormyridae) can
he withstand an ick treatment like Maracide. Many thanks, Michelle
<Happy to help. It's a shame that Dwarf Gourami Disease is so common. Anyway, as
for the Ick in your aquarium, be extremely careful when treating the tank. I am
not personally familiar with this medication, but I'm a bit concerned that its
web page says it "may be harmful to amphibians and some snails". Anyway, before
using it, check that the carton said it was safe with invertebrates and
stingrays. Anything safe with those should be safe with mormyrids; if it doesn't
say it is safe for those, then assume it is not. If your retailer doesn't know,
then checking the web site (or telephoning) the manufacturer can help. The
safest thing is move the Mormyrid to a quarantine tank, treat the main tank, use
carbon and water changes to remove leftover medication, and then return the
Mormyrid. With luck, your Mormyrid will not be infected. Since you've had the
baby whale 8 months, he's obviously settled in and feeding -- so I wouldn't take
any chances risking such a lovely animal. Cheers, Neale>
Sick Elephant Nose 4/10/07
Hi!
<Hi Ashley, Pufferpunk here>
I have an elephant nose that I purchased about two to three months
ago. He was doing well until today. I turned on the lights and found him
resting in the plants near the bubble wall at the back of the tank.
<Unless you have some kind of plastic tube to observe this fish, that's what it
will do mostly--hide. They are generally not open-swimming fish & only come out
to eat.>
I thought he was dead! I used my net to try to get him and he
moved in the tank. He looks a little thin, doesn't seem to eat much and is very
unbalanced.
<Probably starving to death. This is the #1 cause of death in these fish. They
will only eat worms & prefer live.>
Since he was resting near the bubbles, he had small bubbles on his body but
after they "popped" I noticed that he had a small yellow-ish spot at the base of
one of his "side" fins (I call them the swimmer fins... or arm fins... whichever
is more helpful). He is about three inches and the spot is about the size of an
uncooked couscous ball and roughly the same in color. All of the other fish
seem fine (Mollies, Gouramis, Pleco and two Iridescent sharks).
<You don't mention the size of your tank but do you have any idea yow large
iridescent sharks get???
[IMG]
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/Pufferpunk/Other%20Fish/iridescentsharks.jpg[/IMG]
>
The water quality is good and partially changed weekly.
<Good means nothing to us. Best to post exact parameters, when asking for
help.>
What would you say is the diagnosis? What are possible methods of
treatment? Having accidentally used "quick cure", I am scared to use most
medications. (He survived without incident in this case). I did increase the
water temperature, added a "therapeutic" amount of aquarium salt and performed a
water change.
<These fish will not appreciate any amount of salt. They come from soft water
conditions. The Quick Cure may have irritated his skin. I'd do a 50% water
change & add Melafix. Go to your LFS & get live blackworms. Rinse thoroughly
in a brine shrimp net & throw out any that look dead. Put them into a worm cone
feeder, he'll find them. All your fish will love them too! You can store the
worms in a shallow container with holes on top & 1/4" of water. Rinse
daily. Hopefully it's not too late. Some fish, once in starvation mode, won't
eat.>
My nephews are attached to "Big Al", as are my husband and me! Please advise!
<Good luck with Big Al, I hope he makes it! ~PP>
Thank you, Ashley
Monogeneans from the gills of Mormyrid fishes
Dear Profesor,
<Blahoua>
I hope you will understand this message easily; my English is quite poor.
<No worries>
I am called BLAHOUA KASSI Georges. I am a doctorate of the university of
Cocody-Abidjan (Ivory Coast). I undertake my research in Laboratory of
Hydrobiology. I just red in the internet one of your publications which
title is: “The Elephantfishes, family Mormyridae, in Aquariums
My topic concerns the Monogenean from the gills of Mormyrid fishes.
Concerning the bibliography, I have some difficulties because I don't have
any previous publications. I will be duly grateful you send me publications
on “Gills Monogenean parasites from Mormyrid fishes”. You can also give me
names and e-mails of some persons who have worked on my topic that you know.
Doing so you will help me a lot in my research works.
Best wishes in 2005.
Sincerely yours.
<I suspect you don't have easy access to large library collections as well do
here. Where would I send this material? Bob Fenner>
BLAHOUA KASSI GEORGES
Address postale : University of Cocody, UFR Biosciences,
LABORATORY OF HYDROBIOLOGY
22 BP 582 Abidjan 22 (Coast of Ivory)
Dead elephant nose
I bought an elephant nose about a month ago and lost him 3 wks ago, after reading your information on them, I wish I would have had the feeding test
done, then I would have known not to buy him, he would not eat and got skinnier and skinnier, it was horrible, I brought him to the pet store, and
he wouldn't eat for them either, they treated him for internal parasites for a wk in a half and he still didn't look good.
<Likely too far gone from the process of (likely chemical) collection in the wild, starving, poor water quality from there through shipping, handling... Happens to whole shipments at times>
So from what I read what you have wrote, do you have any ideas in what I could do to keep my
elephant nose alive, when I buy one in the near future. Do you have any idea to why he
wouldn't eat, because I did ask them how long was he here before I bought him and they said 3 wks, and he look good, apparently not or he would have
ate. Also my water was good where it should be, so I can't figure why he wouldn't eat?
<Morymyrids find aquatic worms almost irresistible... try blackworms, tubificids... if the specimen/s don't take these, I would leave them at the shop>
If you could help me it would be appreciated, I don't know any where else to turn to there is not a
lot of people that know about these fish.
<There is considerable known about their esoteric biology, but not much popularized re their practical husbandry... Many die from jumping out (for lack of an adequate aquarium cover) and metal poisoning from errant medicine treatment for instance... Easily avoided>
Thanks, Sincerely
Shelley
<Bob Fenner>
