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FAQs on Pimelodid Catfish Health
Related Articles: Pimelodid Catfishes,
Related FAQs: Pimelodid Catfishes
1,
Pimelodid Cats 2, & FAQs on:
Pimelodid Identification,
Pimelodid Behavior,
Pimelodid Compatibility,
Pimelodid Selection,
Pimelodid Systems,
Pimelodid Feeding, Pimelodid Reproduction,
& Red Tail Cats (Phractocephalus),
Pictus Cats,
Shovelnose Catfishes (Pseudoplatystoma, Sorubim, Sorubimichthys...),
& Catfish FAQs: Identification,
Behavior, Compatibility,
Selection, Systems,
Feeding, Disease,
Reproduction, |
This family of catfishes demands highly oxygenated, high
quality water
Like other "naked catfishes" they do not appreciate dye or
metal medications |
Stinger is sick :( can you help? (Pimelodid on the skids)
<<Greetings, JasonC here...>>
we have a catfish and after much research have determined that he is a Leiarius marmoratus (by counting his dorsal fin rays and ruling out the
Perrunichthys peruno)<<This is an "old name" for the same species. RMF>> his name is stinger. we were treating his tankmates for ick (dread) and the medicine that we used said that it was safe for to use on him... unfortunately he had a BAD reaction to the
medicine he lost his long whiskers which turned to a mushy white and fell off, also he has a large "open wound" near his tail where all the skin has come off.he was in an 80 gallon tank but I moved him to a 5 gallon tank so I could treat him better (we are treating him with
Melafix) and he seems to be doing better. he is our favorite fish is there anything else that we can do for him? please please help if you can <<I would just make sure you change the water in that 5g tank frequently... keep it clean, and keep up the observation. I would agree that you ich treatment is what started his decline and removing the fish to a separate tank was a wise decision. I'd keep this up until the wound has healed. In the future, rather than treating your entire display system, remove only the sick fish to separate tanks where you can treat them individually and not subject the entire
display to the troubles that arise from most ich treatments.>>
~Gina, matt and stinger!
<<Cheers, J -- >>
Just bought a 2.5" red tail baby Amazon catfish 3 days ago,
<decided to get a tank buster eh? These grow to be enormous
fish in a relatively short amount of time. I've wanted one myself for
a long time, just haven't had a tank that could house them properly. >
he was fine the first 2 days, then started 'floating around' the tank, without swimming.. kinda
like he's dying...kinda letting the current take him,
<these fish are bottom dwelling, and floating of any kind is not good.>
this is a small 5 gallon tank, was setup 1 month ago, 3 weeks ago got 3 zebra tetras
/ 2" Pleco / whole bunch of good established gravel and they are doing
great.
<They maybe doing great but that tank is way too small for all of those
fish. Pleco's and Catfish are very messy fish! The water
parameters can become bad fast with the amount of waste these fish are
producing!>
75-78 degrees, ph 7.0-6.8..he is also kinda breathing harder, if you try and
touch him with your finger, he'll try to escape. but he just floats around. when
he looks more coherent sometimes he is upside down. Hadn't eaten, but looks like
he just ate a shrimp (freeze dried 1 cm long shrimps).
<I suggest you get your larger tank up and running very soon! This tank is
not going to work for these fish! What you need to purchase is Freshwater Test
Kits. These will tell you the ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels in
your tank. With high ammonia and nitrite levels it effects the fish's
breathing. Ammonia damages the gills, and nitrite hinders the fish's
body from using the oxygen from the water. The water parameters must
be at Ammonia=0, Nitrite=0, Nitrate being as close to zero as possible.>
I'm calling the fish store, but was wondering if this is totally bad. the tank
should be ok
<No, it's not okay. way to small. It's like keeping an
elephant in spare bed room. Just because it fits inside doesn't mean
it's okay.>
(by the way, he's moving in 2 months to a 55 gallon and then a 200 gallon at
least to start with, then a pond eventually.)
<that is a good plan, but you should have gotten this fish when you had the
larger tank ready. Don't put the cart before the
horse. have the environment ready for the animal, it's easier on you
and the fish.>
Have wanted one of these for years, please help, only 3 days in !!!
--Dave
<I've wanted these myself, but realized that they can become monster sized,
and need a home to fit their needs. See if your Local fish store will
hold the fish for you as you get your larger tank set up. You will need to do
some water changes on this 5 gallon to help bring the water levels back to
normal this will help. during this time you will need to start
setting up the larger tank for him. good luck and remember
to research and have things ready well in advance before purchasing any animal.
-Magnus.>
Pictus Catfish Flashing
I just bought 2 pictus catfish wanted to know if it's normal for them to scrape the bottom of tank? Thanks. April
<<Dear April, no, it's not normal. Chances are good they have a parasite called Ich. You can find a medication for it at your local fish store. Tell them it is for a scaleless catfish. The meds will need to be used at half dosage, so read the directions carefully. What size is the tank? How often do you do
water changes? You will need to keep your water quality good and your temperature stable if you hope to keep these fish parasite-free. Make sure your temperature is at a stable 78-80F. -Gwen>>
Big Cat, Poor Water
Hello its Me Again. <Hi Mr. Again, Don here> I would like to know what I
should do since my 7 year old Sorubim lima has a red spot on the tip of it's
head. What should I do? I have removed what I think caused it. Also every so
often it's upper barbels turn white and frays. For that I normally a water
change and it fixes that problem. Should I do the same thing? Or what?
Help!!!!!
Thanks for your help
CJ
<Well CJ, you should be doing water changes before conditions cause his barbels
to fray. I suggest you test the tank for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. In a well
established tank ammonia and nitrite will remain at zero. Do water changes to
correct any spikes. Nitrates should be below 20ppm. As long as ammonia and
nitrite are at zero, set up a water change schedule that keeps nitrates below
20ppm. If the red spot on his head was caused by a bump, the fresh water is all
he will need to heal. Nice fish BTW, good luck with him. Don>
Eye Problems in QT
Hi, this is Alvin here. I have a question regarding the Limas shovel nose
catfish. I bought it a week ago and it has been in my quarantine tank since.
However I noticed that one of its eye is enlarged. It does not seem like pop eye
as the eye is just enlarged, not swollen. I am rather puzzled, have never seen
anything like this before. Hope you can give me some advice. Thank you.
Alvin
<Hi Alvin, Don here. Cool fish, hope you have a big tank. Have you been testing
the QT? Changing the water? Most eye problems start with poor water conditions,
which are common in a QT. I'm not sure what you mean by "enlarged, but not
swollen" but I would do a large water change and add some Epsom salt>
Pictus cat health, behavior
We have 2 Pictus catfish and they both stay hidden in each of their own spots. We have several
different kinds of sharks in the 55 gal. tank. I wanted to know if there is anything we can do to make them as lively as we have heard of
them to be? Thank you, Chad Crawford
<Mmm, strange they aren't active... This catfish does enjoy warmer water... upper seventies, low eighties F... and your minnow-sharks should be able to tolerate this... so I would raise your temp. if it isn't tropical. What are you feeding the Pictus? They need at least twice daily meaty foods... that get down to them... Not just flakes or pellets. This will make a huge difference in their behavior, health... Lastly and least likely, what's your water chemistry? They like soft, acidic water... but will tolerate mid hardness, neutral pH... Bob Fenner> Re: Pictus cat health, behavior...
Uhhh, did you read the last response?
We keep the temperature at about 75-76 degrees. We feed them shrimp pellets.
<Could be warmer... and as stated before, they need more than pelleted food...>
I'm not sure what the water chemistry is, I know it's hard water.
<And what type of water do these fish prefer?>
When we first got them we loved them <<no my friend, you "loved" only what they
did for you>> because they swam around everywhere and were really fun to watch, but now all they do is hide in the two caves we
have in the tank, guarding their area. We're wondering if maybe we should get a couple more of the
Pictus Catfish and maybe they would be more active altogether. The other fish we have in the tank are
3 tiger barbs, 1 black finned shark, 1 silver tipped shark, 1 rainbow shark and 2 red tailed sharks.
-Thanks!
<Could add more... but your tank is already going to be overcrowded with growth of what you have... You need to alter the diet, perhaps change your water quality here. Bob Fenner>
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Redtail Catfish death, is a GSP the Culprit?
Our South American Redtail Catfish looked like it went into shock, and eventually died awhile later. We have a green spotted puffer in the tank too, is the puffer poisonous, and could he have killed the catfish? The catfish was a very good size, a lot larger
than the puffer.
Ricardo & Stephanie
<GSP's are not "that" toxic... the cause of death very likely unrelated. Most often Phractocephalus die from mis-feeding (feeder goldfish, or choking on another too-large, spiny fish), or "jump out"... Bob Fenner>
Body slime and eye cloud 10/7/05
I have a 2 Sorubim lima, an Oscar, a Pleco, and a Synodontis nigrita. The 2 Sorubims have a body slime infection (the color of the slime is clear). One of the
Sorubims has eye cloud.
<What cause/s?>
The Oscar I haven't noticed a body slime infection yet but he only moves when there is food (not feeders) in the water.
The Pleco and the Syno. seem to be unaffected. Also there was an albino Pictus cat in the tank and a tire track eel in the tank as well but they died (I think from the body slime).
<These fishes were/are not compatible>
The fish who have been affected by the body slime appear to have a problem keeping buoyancy (the fish almost have to swim upside down), they swim near the top of the tank, and a few days later die. Can you offer any advice/treatments.
Thanks
CJ
<You're joking? What about the system? Its history? Water quality tests? Please read through WWM FW subweb re disease... Bob Fenner> Re: body slime and eye cloud 10/9/05
A 55 gallon tank
<Too small>
...with some bog- wood and no plants (know it's small but a 110 gallon tank is going to be ordered from a local dealer a
Monday). PH. 7.6,
<Too high for Sorubim>
nitrite 0,ammonia 8.0,
<What? Toxic!>
and my nitrate is a constant 80ppm.
<Way too high... s/b below 20 ppm>
The ammonia is high because of the medication I am using. The only disease that has been in
this tank was septicemia {septicemia?} which happened 5 years ago.
<I do hope you're joking here... fix this environment, quick. Bob Fenner>
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Pinkish Pictus - 10/20/2005
Dear Wet Web Media
<Good morning, Charlotte.>
I am hoping you can help me, we have two pictus catfish which we have had for
just over a year. They seem to be fine, but the larger one of the two has
developed a pink hue to the tail and fins. Is this normal
<Unlikely.>
or could it have joint problems as these are the jointed parts of the body?
<Mm, actually, likelier that this is some sort of irritation.... likely due to
environmental conditions. With no information on your system, this really can't
be diagnosed.>
They live in a community planted aquarium and get on very well with our four
yoyo loaches. They are fed frozen blood worm and cat pellets in the main as
have never shown an interest in other varieties of live and frozen food we have
tried. I did search your site for a similar question but couldn't see anything
there. Thank you so much for your time and consideration.
<Test your water for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate; maintain ammonia and nitrite
at ZERO, nitrate less than 20ppm with water changes.... and go on from there.>
Charlotte
<Wishing you well, -Sabrina>
Catfish Dying Off
12/10/05
I have a dilemma which no one in the local resources seems to be able to answer. I have had
Pictus catfish within the last year and within a
month all three suddenly died. They were swimming around fairly active and eating well and one morning they died within 10 minutes of each
other. The other fish (red tiger cichlids, 2 Palo shark and 1 common Plecos) did fine and have displayed no strange
behaviours.
Then I tried two silver tip (Columbian) catfish. They were fine for about three weeks then started to die. One this morning. The other
fish are fine. The catfish was fine last night swimming around between the cave and the open tank (30 gallon). I changed the water last night
and checked the levels based on the testing system purchased and all levels indicate either "ideal" or "safe" conditions.
Any advice or guidance would be appreciated. I have not had fish for some time (about 15 years) and maybe I am not doing something correctly.
I hate to bring any other catfish into the tank until I know what I am doing
incorrectly. Thank you, Shauna
< The fish you are having problems with are sensitive to copper. New copper pipes in the water system may be a cause. Sometimes rocks have copper in them that can leach out into the water. Check the pH too. Wide changes in pH are tough on catfish.-Chuck>
RTC with bloat or dropsy? HELP!!! Phractocephalus 12/20/2005
I have a 2 ft long RTC in a 400gallon aquarium. Recently his stomach has
swollen many times its original size and I do not know if this means that he is
suffering from dropsy or bloat.
<Could be n/either... but... from what cause? Most such symptoms are from mis-
and over-feeding in this large pimelodid>
He is still very hungry and the distended stomach appeared just one morning,
subsided the next, and reappeared at night, all while I did not put any food in
the tank!
<Are all tankmates accounted for?>
He appears distressed and has turned rather dark in colour, and there is some
bleeding at his stomach. How do I treat him or tell if he has been infected by
bacteria? Help please!!!
<This fish can/could be injected with antibiotics... in a timely manner... but
need to know much more re the system, water make-up, maintenance, foods/feeding
to proffer an opinion. Bob Fenner>
Large FW Catfish fed feeders...
I just found out you guys existed! Boy I could have used your help a long
time ago. I didn't really have a question for ya, but wanted to tell you
a story. I know you hear this a lot but I was also the victim of poor
pet store knowledge (more than once) and ended up with a
Pseudoplatystoma corruscans (shovelnose catfish). <Cool cat, but
very large with a larger mouth> The guy told me at the store that at
about 6 inches the little guy was pretty much full grown. <LOL> I know
now that that was completely false. Anyway we kept the little fella in
our 33 gallon and he is was one of my favorites in the tank. Loved to
eat and has really unique patterns. We were planning on keeping him till
he got closer to a foot long. Unfortunately he never made it that far,
he inherited what I think was a bacterial disease from some feeder
comets, <Please, Please, PLEASE! No feeders unless you're willing to QT
them. Garden worms and human seafood (shrimp, mussels, etc.) is far
safer for these large cats.> even though we wouldn't have had him for
very long I was really mad that he died so quickly (3 months). He quit
moving around and had his feelers pulled back to his side. A usually
quite knowledgeable fish keeper told us to just let it ride for a couple
of days, thinking he might just be shedding, <Shedding??? Catfish don't
shed there skin>> since he was the only one in the tank that was sick.
He died the next morning. The other fish I was misinformed about is our
fire eel. He lives in the same 33 gallon tank (don't worry I've treated
the tank with Pimafix because whatever the catfish had it affected our
leopard leaf fish, he got some body slime and cloudy eye but everyone is
healthy now) and looking at your website I found out that he may get 2-4
feet long. The pet store told me he would be max a foot and a half.
Right now he is just about a foot long and happily resides under a large
piece of driftwood, coming out at night and to eat out of my hand, he
loves frozen shrimp!<Great, safe food. But vary it somewhat.> I was
wondering how long it will take for him to get too big for the tank and
have to be given away. <Not really sure.> I'll miss him but it's not
fair to cage him in such a small tank. <True> Will he really get 4 feet
in captivity <possible, over 3 for sure.> or could we maybe get away
with keeping him in a 100 gallon or more? <Would surely allow you to
keep him far longer. Min. recommended size is around 80 gallons. Upgrade
your plan to a 125 or 150 and you could have him for life.> Sorry to
write you a novel. Pet stores should be forced to have accurately
knowledgeable staff, the losers are the poor fish and pissed off
purchasers.
Don't rush to write me back,
Amber <Don>
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Treatment for a laceration injury; crayfish compatibility?
11/8/06
Hi--
<Hello Erica - Jorie here>
Our pictus cat has suffered a ~5mm gash on one side of its abdomen, probably
thanks to Pinchy, our resident speckled crayfish.
<Probably so. Pinchy will likely continue to damage your catfish, as well as
other tank inhabitants, depending on what you've got in there...he will likely
need to live in his own tank if you don't want to hurt your fish...)
I'm wondering whether and how to treat the wound. The cat has been pacing a
bit (swimming back and forth) and its abdomen is slightly swollen. Otherwise,
its color and appetite appear to be ok.
<I would suggest isolating the injured fish, keeping water conditions clean and
clear, and adding MelaFix to promote speedy tissue regrowth. Keep a very close
eye to ensure no secondary infection develops at the wound site - if it does, a
broad spectrum antibiotic such as Spectrogram will help. So long as the fish
is swimming, eating, and otherwise behaving OK, I don't suggest anything but
quarantine, clean water and MelaFix.>
Thanks in advance,
-Erica
<Jorie. Do try to find an alternative home for Pinchy.>
Re: Treatment for a laceration injury; crayfish compatibility? 11/12/06
Dear Jorie:
Thanks so much for the information! The cat's doing much better now and seems
to be on the way to a full recovery.
<I'm glad to hear that.>
Yes, we're looking into alternate arrangements for Pinchy.
<Love the name!! You must be a Simpsons fan, also...>
She's been rather crabby and aggressive since having her first set of
unsterilized eggs. Perhaps a new, dedicated home and a boyfriend will
help. :-)
<Unfortunately, I know nothing about keeping crayfish, so I can't advise you
here...do read up on proper conditions, incl. whether or not a mate would be
suitable prior to purchasing...>
Thanks again,
-Erica
<You're welcome. Jorie>
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helphelphelp... Pimelodelid
hlth. 1/28/08
Hi Neale,
I don't know why, but today when I was looking at one of my pictus catfish, I
noticed that she was struggling to swim up and that she kept on going back down
to the surface.
<Hmm... usually a sign of acute distress: check temperature, ammonia/nitrite,
potential sources of poisons.>
The other catfish seems fine and is swimming around everywhere. The sick one
does not seem to show any other symptoms - I mean she is breathing normally and
is not gasping. Also, she keeps rubbing herself against the glass or gravel.
What is wrong with her. I noticed this just now, and she seemed fine when I fed
her, she was racing around everywhere. Now she can't swim as well as the other
and seems to be rubbing herself on the glass thing.
<The rubbing is usually a precursor to Whitespot or Velvet. Look for small white
dots on the fins especially. In the UK, I have found eSHa 2000 to be safe with
catfish and other sensitive species, so I'd recommend that one. Otherwise you
can use the salt/heat method described in detail in the Clown Loach Disease FAQs
elsewhere on this site.>
I'm scared to treat with anything, as I read on the net that they do not have
scales.
<This is a factoid that does the rounds but for the life of me I can't
understand what relevance it has to anything.>
What do I do, I don't want to lose her.
Thanking you, Neervana.
<Cheers, Neale.>
Re: helphelphelp 1/28/08
Hi Neale,
I went to see the lady in the petshop who sold me my pictus catfish and I
explained what I told you in the e-mail, and she gave me Protozin White Spot and
Fungus to use. So I have made a water change - but when I read the back of the
bottle before I used it, it said not to use the medicine on elephant noses -
African Mormyrids. So I was a bit worried about using it.
<Pictus catfish aren't Mormyrids, so that in itself should be a concern. In
general, catfish will tolerate the use of copper/formalin medications provided
they are otherwise healthy. It is also important to increase aeration in the
aquarium, because to some degree the harmful aspect of medications is the
irritation they cause to the gills. Simply raising the outlet of the filter --
to increase splashing -- will help. Also make sure the filter is operating at
full power -- the more circulation, the better.>
Instead, I put two drops of it in the tank instead of the required dose per
gallon (not sure if that helped)
<I'd use the full dose as quote on the packaging. If the fish appear to be
distressed, then do a 50% water change, and when you do the next dose, only use
half the amount. But for these things to work, there does need to be a certain
amount of copper/formalin in the water.>
and I raised the temperature to 30 degrees as it was 26 before - is that ok or
too much?
<Temperature increase is fine, especially if you increase circulation and
aeration.>
I found two really tiny white spots on the sick pictus and when I explained it
to the lady she said it could probably be white spot and that I should raise the
temperature so I have.
<Fine.>
How long should I keep on doing water changes? I did one last Sunday, and now I
just did one. Will this harm any bacteria I have in the tank?
<Water changes don't do any harm, ever, provided the new water is similar
temperature/chemistry and you use dechlorinator. Normally you do not do water
changes during the period you are adding medication. So if you need to add 20
drops on Day 1, 20 drops on Day 3, and 20 drops on Day 5, you wouldn't do a
water change until at least Day 6.>
Thanks, Neervana.
<Cheers, Neale.>
Re: I did a water test...
1/28/08
Hey Neale
I did a water test and it is showing 0 nitrite. So why is the pictus acting this
way? The other is fine, swimming around perfectly. The sick one is still rubbing
against glass and not swimming properly. She has not lost any colour at all,
seems fine apart from not swimming and the rubbing.
<Assume Whitespot/Velvet, and act accordingly.>
I don't know what to do. She does not have any scales does she?
<None of the catfishes have scales. That is indeed true.>
So now what? What medication to use?
<See previous e-mail.>
She wasn't like this this morning, first time I have seen her do this.
Sorry to keep on pestering, don't know what to do.
Thanks, Neervana.
<Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Dosage... Neervana... Neale... 1/29/08
Hi Neale,
I didn't add anymore medicine to the tank as it says not to add more Protozin
once you've put it in, only after 48 hours. Because I only put in two drops,
should I put in the rest of the normal dosage the bottle says for my tank
tomorrow? Or should I wait until Thursday and do it then? When should I change
the water if I put the Protozin in tomorrow? On Saturday? And should I also be
thinking about feeding them less in the meantime as well? If bits of uneaten
food fall on the gravel and does not get cleaned up quickly, will this pollute
the water, and perhaps encourage the white spot to grow?
Thanks, Neervana.
<Did you add *just* two drops, or two drops per litre/gallon? If the former,
that will achieve nothing at all and you may as well forget about it. Just start
again from scratch, following PRECISELY what it says on the packaging. Don't
make this stuff up as you go along! Protozin isn't a medication I use, but it's
been around for decades so I assume it is safe and reliable. Feed fish normally
while treating them. Dirty gravel doesn't encourage Whitespot to grow, but of
course a dirty tank with poor water quality won't help your fish stay healthy.
Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Dosage 1/29/08
Hi Neale,
Yes, I very stupidly only put in two drops of the Protozin...I was just worried
I would be poisoning them. So just to be clear about this:
1st treatment, I add the required dosage, then 2nd treatment again (after how
many days if I add first treatment tomorrow?) and then third treatment (after
how many days?) and then after the third treatment when do I do a water change,
as I already did one today?
Thanks Neale,
Neervana.
<Protozin is added on days 1, 2, 3, and 6. Do NOT DO ANY water changes between
day 1 or day 6, and in fact don't do any water changes until at least day 8. Let
the medicine do its thing. If you keep diluting the concentration, it won't
work! Make sure there's no carbon in the filter. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Dosage -01/30/08
Hi Neale,
So I've added my first dosage today. How do I know whether there is any carbon
in my filter? It came with my tank as a complete set up - what I mean is its
built into the tank so I can't take it out.
<Carbon is usually a bag of black chippings. Charcoal by another name. Some
filters have black carbon covered sponges or modules. The instructions should
reveal this, if you really don't know.>
When I looked in it, all I saw were two compartments with this foamy woolly
thing and another third one with these round cylinders, that looked cream in
colour.
<The wool is filter floss, or if its spongy, it's sponge. Used for mechanical
and biological filtration. The ceramic cylinders are called "noodles" among
hobbyists and are for biological filtration.>
Thanks, Neervana.
<Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Dosage... Pim. hlth.
1/31/08
Hi Neale,
After the first treatment, the sick pictus that was lying at the bottom is
looking a lot better, she is already back and up, swimming about crazily. So I
should proceed with the dose as the bottle mentions?
<Yes!!!! This is how TB Epidemics get started... people don't finish the course
of drugs because they feel fine halfway through. You MUST finish the course
precisely as instructed.>
I am now on day 2. it also says half dosage for new aquariums, so I have been
halving it.
<If that's what it says... then that's what it says!>
I checked the filter, there is no carbon as you have described it. So far is
everything as it should be?
<Yep.>
Thank you for your advice! Neervana
<Cheers, Neale.>
|
why?...
Ongoing re ich, Pim... 2/1/08
Hello Neale,
I am now on day three of the treatment for my pictus catfish. Both white
spots I saw on one of the pictus are gone - today as I was looking at
her I noticed that both of the pictus' tails are slightly frayed. I know
they weren't like this before. What is causing this? They hardly ever
fight, and they seem to always be swimming together. Is this another
infection?
Thanks, Neervana.
<Frayed fins are normally a sign of Finrot and/or Fungus. Whitespot/Ick
can trigger these problems -- when the cysts burst and the whitespot
parasite swims out (to reproduce and then infect more fish) it leaves
behind a hole, and bacteria can get into the hole and cause an
infection. Alternatively, you may have some problems with water quality,
because Finrot and Fungus are both related to water quality nine times
out of ten. In any case: check the nitrite, to make sure the aquarium is
healthy. When the Whitespot medication is done, do a 50% water change,
and then start a treatment for Finrot and Fungus. I recommend eSHa 2000
because it treats both equally well, but you can find alternative brands
if you want to. Damaged fins are -- up to a point -- low priority
complaints, so don't fret too much. Yes, you must treat them, but they
will heal nicely once you have added the medication. In the wild fish
damage their fins all the time. It is really only in the bacteria-laden
water in a fish tank that fin damage becomes potentially lethal. Cheers,
Neale.>
Re: why? Doesn't Neale suggest a
good FW tome? 2/1/08
Hi Neale,
So now I'm on day 4 - which is the one where I don't add any medication
(Protozin). My tank is starting to smell, and I really don't like it.
Also, the water is getting a bit dirty - when is the earliest day I can
change the water, day 6 or 7 perhaps?
Also, I don't know where to get eSHa 2000 from, my LFS don't have it.
Thanks,
Neervana.
<In four days after a water change, your aquarium SHOULD NOT smell! If
it smells, then you are doing one (or more) of the following:
- Feeding the fish too much, so that leftover food is rotting.
- Not removing uneaten food (see above).
- Keeping too many fish in too small a tank.
- Not providing adequate filtration for the sorts of fish being kept.
Aquaria in good condition DO NOT SMELL!!!
Cheers, Neale.>
Re: why? 2/1/08
Hi Neale,
Yes, I have not vacuumed my gravel since the start of last week. Now
what should I do? When I went to the LFS the lady said that since my
tank came with an in-built filtration/oxygen system I don't need any
other equipment added to it. I only have two pictus catfish in my tank,
so I think it's ok for the meantime for them. So should I vacuum the
gravel then? But I thought this could dilute the medicine?
Thanks, Neervana.
<Vacuuming the gravel is really neither here nor there when it comes to
water quality, unless you are keeping very large, messy fish that
produces lots of faeces. For Pimelodus pictus, you should be able to go
for several weeks without needing to clean the gravel. The only way the
gravel would become filthy enough to smell would be if your were putting
in masses too much food. Which you're not, I hope. For two Pimelodus
pictus, half a cube of wet frozen bloodworms should be adequate. If
you're using dried food, then a pinch about the size of your little
finger's nail. I'm past remembering what sort of tank we're talking
about. How big is the aquarium? On the filter, look at the pump, and
less if it has a gallons-per-hour (gph) or litres-per-hour (lph) rating
-- it should do. Also what temperature is the aquarium? Cheers, Neale.>
Re: why? Pim., ich...
2/3/08
Hi Neale,
The tank is 10 gallons (which I know is too small for these fish, but I
am currently saving for a bigger one to move them into, which would be
around two months' time) then I would use the tank I already have as a
quarantine tank.
<Hmm... a 10 gallon tank isn't really suitable for these fish, even for
a while. Do check the nitrite level, and I'm guessing you'll find it
isn't zero. This is a bad thing.>
I put the temperature up to 30 degrees - it used to be 26 before, but I
raised the temperature to 30, because the lady in the LFS told me to do
that.
<This is indeed correct *while* treating for whitespot/ick. But once the
whitespot is dealt with, reduce the temperature to around 25. These are
not fish that live in very warm water. More heat = less oxygen, and
that'll make the fish less happy and the bacteria less efficient.>
I also noticed that it's only when I first added the Protozin that there
was a weird smell coming out from the tank and that it went after a
couple of hours. Every time I add the medicine the tank smells. I also
wanted to mention that when I raised the temperature, I did it in one go
- when I was reading some of the messages people had put online they all
advised each other on raising it one degree a day - I didn't do that, I
only did it all at once because I didn't know. Could this be why it
smells?
<No.>
I have not done the water change yet, so do you think I should wait
until day 6?
<If you can, wait. But if the fish clearly look ill, then you have to do
a water change of 50%.>
My two pictuses are starting to look a bit sick as in their fins are
turning opaque a bit and do look a bit ragged.
<That's likely Finrot.>
Also, when I feed them I feed them about a little less then half a cube
of blood worms, a pellet each (tetra ones) and about half a pack of
jellied daphnia. I feed them a different thing each day like you said,
but perhaps it is too much for them.
<Too much. Stop feeding them completely while they are sick. Once they
are healthy, switch to feeding once every two days, and even then only a
small quantity of food. As I said earlier, about the same amount as
would fit on the fingernail on your little finger.>
What do you think I should do?
Thanking you, Neervana.
<Cheers, Neale.>
Hi Neale,
I have a 200 gallon tank I could move them into once they are healthy -
but I have two bala sharks already in this tank who are perfectly
healthy...
<Don't mix sick fish with healthy fish.>
so I don't know if it's wise to move them in now, as the bala sharks
might catch the white spot?
<Perfectly possible.>
Anyway, should I do a water change now? Thing is, I did a water change
every week since I got them, the did two water changes before I put the
medicine in. They really don't look well at all, so I should do the
water change now and then continue with the Protozin and feed them a
little every two days until they look healthy again?
<Do the water change, and don't feed the fish for the next few days and
see if the water clears up.>
Thanks , Neervana.
<Cheers, Neale.>
Hi Neale,
I was wondering about something, thought I would just ask you quickly.
This tank was new and the pictuses are the first two fish to live in it
- so how did they catch white spot?
<Likely had it at the store. This is why we quarantine fish, to keep
diseases from getting into our home aquaria.>
I did read online that apparently it's bad to mix the water that your
fish comes in with the water in the tank, as it may contain white spot,
because some of the fish in a few tanks in that fish shop are dead on
the gravel.
<Indeed, you should put the new fish into a bucket with the water from
the bag. Then add a few cups of water from the fish tank over the next
30 minutes. Then lift the fish out and put it into the tank. Ideally,
you're putting it into a quarantine tank. This doesn't stop whitespot if
the fish are already infected, but it does reduce do something to help
keep out the motile whitespot parasites (which swim in the water looking
for hosts).
But the tank these two fish were in did not seem like it had any
unhealthy fish.
<Most aquarium stores have water that flows between multiple tanks and
one big filter. So even if one tank seems devoid of sick fish, that
doesn't guarantee anything. The better stores will use UV to reduce the
chances of diseases moving about, but this isn't an 100% fix.>
Do you know how it could have happened?
<Not exactly, but I can guess. The fish had whitespot when you bought
them. After a few days the cysts matured and you saw the spots. In the
meanwhile, a combination of the whitespot itself damaging the skin
together with poor water quality/overcrowding has led to Finrot.>
Also, I did not vacuum the gravel today I just took a small bucket and
took water straight out of the tank, that does not matter does it?
<That's fine for a water change. Under normal circumstances, the gravel
doesn't need to be cleaned every week. Once a month is fine, perhaps
less if the tank has lots of plants and is otherwise well maintained.>
I mean I have just ordered a gravel vacuum and waiting for it to come,
that's why I can't clean the gravel.
<I don't use a gravel cleaner anyway. Just a stick and a siphon. Stir
gravel with the stick, and use the siphon to suck away any dirt.>
But I assume that it's not important to vacuum the gravel if it hardly
shows any dirt on it?
<Visible dirt doesn't directly harm fish. Dirty tanks tend to be poorly
maintained tanks, but in itself silt is harmless. Check out the "wild"
and you'll see a lot of silt! Fish get harmed by the invisible things --
nitrite, ammonia.>
I mean mine does not look like there is any mess on it. I am expecting
to vacuum the gravel next week. Should I continue with the Protozin just
the same because I did the water change, does that mean the
concentration has been diluted now? I am on the fourth day now, and you
said I should put the next dosage on day 6. Then water change on day 8.
Proceed with this?
<Precisely; carry on as if you had NOT done a water change.>
Thanks and sorry for pestering you so much, but I just want to be sure.
Neervana
<I suspect, my friend, that the time has come to invest in a good
aquarium book.
<<Hallelujah! RMF>>
A lot of these questions are fundamental to the hobby, and having a
nice book with the facts laid out fair and square will be very helpful.
Visit your local public library and test drive a few tropical fish
books. When you've found one you like, BUY IT! Trust me, compared to
anything else you will get in the hobby, a good aquarium book is BY FAR
the best use of your cash. Cheers, Neale.>
It's not going away... Pim.,
ich... 2-4-08
Hi Neale,
I've added my last dose of Protozin to my aquarium now, and today I noticed that
one of the pictuses (who was infected first) is completely covered in white
spot. It's not going away! and I'm on day 4!!!Now what do I do? This Protozin is
not working, they just seem to be getting worse. There whiskers have gone curly
and they look like they are getting fin rot.
<This isn't good.>
Should I finish off the Protozin, and start on another med? I can't find eSHa
2000 anywhere.
<Try online. It really is the best I've used. In any event, trying an alternate
brand will do no harm. Make double sure you are using correctly, especially when
calculating the dosages, removing carbon, etc.>
What other medicine do you have in mind (that I could get from my LFS)?
<Without visiting your aquarium store, I can't possibly know what products they
have. I would use salt + temperature at this stage. Tonic salt ideally. 2-3
teaspoons per gallon, 28-30 C. Raise the salinity/heat gradually across a couple
of days. Leave running for at least a week. Then do water changes across a
couple more days to reduce the salinity again. See here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwich.htm
>
And, if there is another alternative to medicating the catfish again, because it
doesn't seem to be doing them any good.
Thanks, Neervana.
<Do read Bob's article as linked above. Cheers, Neale.>
<<Raise that dang temperature!!! Thank goodness.
B>>
Some help! Pim., ich,
Neale... 2-05-08
Hi Neale,
<Hello again.>
So tomorrow I have to do my 50% water change as the Protozin treatment ends. I
went into my LFS today and the lady there told me to just start the Protozin
treatment all over again. What do you think?
<Do the salt/high temperature plan mentioned last time. Stop with the Protozin;
obviously isn't working. Salt/temperature will *definitely* do the trick.>
Other then making the Pictuses' whiskers get a bit short, it doesn't seem to
have triggered any bad reactions in them.
<Good.>
I ordered eSHa 2000 but the lady said it will take 1-2 weeks for it to get here,
as she only has one person who can get it for her.
<Oh.>
So what do you think, should I start the treatment again, because the catfish do
look bad and they are covered in whitespot.
<No.>
Also, can I feed them on dried shrimp?
<If they eat it, sure. But I wouldn't be putting too much food in this aquarium
just yet. Enough to keep them healthy, but no more. The big problem with
Whitespot is it allows secondary infections to get in, and poor water quality
makes that more likely.>
I saw them in the LFS today. If I'm going to do my water change tomorrow, I do
50% in the morning, 50% in the evening right?
<Fine.>
Then on Thursday I re-start treatment?
<No. Do the salt/temperature protocol instead.>
What fish book do you think I should get, the LFS don't have any.
<Oh, there's any number. My first book was "Guide to Community Fishes" by Dick
Mills. He's an old school writer, but very good and easy to read. TFH's "The
Simple Guide to Fresh Water Aquariums" is pretty good in terms of the basics, as
is "A Practical Guide to Setting Up Your Tropical Freshwater Aquarium" by Gina
Sandford. I get most of my aquarium books second hand in old book stores, and
I'm sure half an hour spend browsing a used book shop where you live would turn
up some gems. The basics of fishkeeping are really very simple and have been
known for years, and doubtless any fairly modern book would set you right.>
Thanks, Neervana.
<Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Some help!
2-05-08
Hi Neale,
<Hello,>
Thank you for the quick replies. So how exactly should I do the salt treatment?
<I spelled it out a couple questions back, and it's described in detail on that
web page about Whitespot (or Ick, as the Americans call it). So go check your
e-mails.>
And I need aquarium salt?
<Ideally, yes, plain old tonic salt will do. Don't use marine salt mix, because
that raises the hardness and pH, which you don't really want to do.>
I don't have any of those except for table salt (which I read is bad on the
Internet because it has anti caking stuff in it but some other people are saying
its harmless concerning treatments).
<Yeah, I've heard this to. Personally, I'd go with what I know, which is plain
tonic salt for treatment. I *have* used cooking salt for dips, where the fish
goes in for a few minutes, but I've never added it to an aquarium. So I can't
confirm whether or not cooking salt is safe this way. If you MUST use cooking
salt, at least get the "gourmet" rock salt that doesn't have any additives. I
believe Kosher salt also lacks additives, and is widely sold in gourmet food
stores as well as ethnic food markets.>
Thanks, Neervana.
<Cheers, Neale.>
|
|
Re: Help, fishy help
web ppl. Pim., ich... 2/8/08
Hi Neale,
The Pictus Catfish are getting worse and worse. The treatment for
whitespot is not working, and they both look like their fins are being
eaten. Most of the fins have nearly gone. I don't want to do this, but I
want to get rid of them I can't stand looking at them trying to swim
around in this way. They look like they are in pain, but most of their
fins are gone, I don't think they will be able to survive. What should I
do? I know the LFS won't take them.
Thanks, Neervana.
<Neervana, tell me what "treatment" you're doing first. Are you doing
the salt + temperature treatment PRECISELY as described in the article
you were directed to? Or are we still messing about with the Protozin?
Have you done water quality tests? Get back to me on these before you
ask any more questions, because without knowing which treatment you're
doing, or what the environment is like, I can't offer any constructive
help. Whitespot is normally VERY easy to cure; if it isn't going away,
then you are clearly not doing something right. When it doesn't get
cured *despite* using a copper-based medication, it's usually because
the user has put the wrong amount in, or else left carbon in the filter.
If you are doing the salt + temperature thing, that WILL work, but it
doesn't kill the cysts on the fish, just the free-living parasites. So
you add the salt, raise the temperature, and then wait a couple days
until the cysts burst. The salty water kills the free living parasites
that emerge, and your fish get better. Whitespot doesn't make the fins
go away; if the fins are decaying, that's something else entirely,
likely Finrot. Finrot is often (almost always) associated with poor
water quality, hence my NEED to know the nitrite concentration in the
tank. If you have any nitrite in the water, that's too much, especially
for fish as sensitive as these. If this was me, I'd do a 50% water
change. I'd make sure the new water had the salt added, at a dose of
about 2-3 teaspoons per gallon. I'd raise the temperature to 82F/28C.
Then tomorrow I'd do another 50% water change, also adding salty water.
I'd then repeat this, doing at least 25% water changes every day from
now on until things look better. My assumption is -- and it's only a
guess -- that your tank is inadequately filtered and overstocked, and
between messing about with the medication, you've not put the right dose
into the tank. Between these two things, the fish are fighting Whitespot
and Finrot at the same time. You MUST do PRECISELY what I say here to
stand any chance of saving these fish! Don't be creative or clever or
try to experiment. Follow my instructions. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Help, fishy help
web ppl. Pim., ich...
Hi Neale,
<Neervana>
I did a 50% water change in the morning as you said and then a 50% water
change in the morning. I was going to buy aquarium salt tomorrow morning
from the LFS but yesterday night I noticed that the fish had nearly all
of their fins missing and that there was only a few strands left. since
doing two 50% water changes yesterday I have not added any medication to
the tank at all because it says not to add any anything else to the
tank, to wait for 48 hours before adding any more treatment.
<Perhaps true, but this doesn't refer to salt, merely other MEDICINES.
Please, add the salted water ASAP.>
The fish look bad in health. I think there is algae in my tank because
when I did that water change I could see some kind of white cloud (jelly
like) floating around in the tank and took it out with a net.
<Forget about the algae. The white gunk is probably bacteria or fungus,
which tend to accumulate in small, dirty tanks. It might also be slime
from the fish, but I don't think your fish are big enough for that.>
But it's cleared up now with the water change. I just tested the water
with those Tetra 5 in 1 sticks and for the nitrite its showing up as
colourless to very very light pink (indicating there is a bit in the
water?) on the test.
<Any Nitrite -- repeat: ANY NITRITE!!! -- is B-A-D bad. Can't make this
any more plain. Nitrite damages fish. It's like carbon monoxide to
humans. Whether it's a little or a lot doesn't matter a whole bunch, the
fact it's there at all is a bad sign.>
The pH is showing up as 7.6 and KH and GH is showing up as 10.
<Basically fine for this species.>
I can get the salt and do the treatment tomorrow but I don't know if
there is any hope, they look so wretched.
<I bet.>
Thanking you, Neervana.
<Good luck (to you all!) Neale.>
Re: Help, fishy help
web ppl. Pim., ich...
Hi Neale,
<Hail.>
when I woke up today I was watching the pictus fish and then one of them
died. He was floating at the surface upside down. I don't know why, but
the other seems to be improving - swimming crazily up and down, but the
fins have turned dark grey - is this fin rot?
<Possibly. Finrot is usually where the fin membrane looks "dead" (grey,
white, often with a pinkish tone especially at the margins). But one
thing at a time. Let's deal with the whitespot, and then we can address
the Finrot (which will require some sort of medication, e.g. my
preferred medication for this, eSHa 2000).>
I have started doing the salt treatment like you say. Shall I raise the
temp to 30 degrees?
<Hmm... you're at 28C now, right? I'd go up one degree C per day just to
make sure the fish adapt. As you add heat, you lose oxygen.>
Fom Neervana
<Cheers, Neale.>
Hi Neale,
<Hello again!>
I'm adding the salt a bit at a time just to make sure the fish can adapt
to it - there's only one pictus in the tank now, do you think it can
take the salt and not die from it?
<This level of salinity is very low (about 5-10% that of seawater) and
well within the tolerances of freshwater fish.>
it's just that since I have added the salt it seems to have stopped
swimming so fast and is now at the bottom breathing really hard.
<Press on anyway. It's going to die if you don't [a] fix the whitespot
and [b] deal with the Finrot and [c] improve water quality. So all you
can do is attend to those things, and then hope for the best. In any
case, make sure the water is as clean as possible, doing regular water
changes. Improve the aeration if possible, if only by ensuring the
filter is working properly and circulating the water in the tank
evenly.>
I did add it very slowly. I mixed the salt with aquarium water and added
a bit in each hour slowly. But the fish seems to be getting really
affected by it. What if it dies?
<It won't have died because you're adding a small amount of salt to the
aquarium. Look to other issues.>
Should I stop on continue?
<Continue.>
Thanks, Neervana.
<Cheers, Neale.>
Re:
... Pictus Fish 2/9/08
Hi Neale,
<Hello,>
So tomorrow I'm going to do a water change again (is this too
soon or ok?), and just keep on adding bit of the salt solution
every hour that I prepared.
<Good.>
I made it today - just added the required dosage in a bucket of
aquarium water and kept it there. I really want to buy another
tank. Even though I just got this 10 gallon I want it as a
quarantine aquarium. I already have a 200 gallon with 2 big bala
sharks but I don't want to risk them getting infected, so I want
to buy a 150-200 gallon again.
<Pimelodus pictus and Bala Sharks will mix extremely well, so
I'd keep them together. As you say, you need to fix the
whitespot first. That said, if the water quality on the
10-gallon tank is bad (i.e., there is nitrite there) I'd
personally move the remaining Pictus to the Bala Shark 200
gallon tank, where water quality will be perfect. I'd
immediately raise the salinity/temperature in that tank though,
so that the whitespot parasite can't spread to the Bala Sharks.
It's important to understand how Whitespot works. It isn't a
"germ" that fish catch, but a parasite that lives in one fish
for a while, then swims into the water, where it turns into
hundreds of infective parasites. These look for a host. If the
water is salty, these infective parasites die before they find a
host, and THAT is how you use salt to stop whitespot. If you do
this properly, there's ZERO risk to the Bala Sharks. If you mess
up and don't do what you're meant to, then yes, the Bala Sharks
could get sick.>
Problem is I don't know where to buy one from, and I don't know
which one is best. Would you mind telling me which one I ought
to get, my pet shop does not help at all, they never know
anything.
<There's no "best" tank, though for a school of Pictus catfish
I'd be looking at something around the 180 litre/40 gallon size.
But to be honest, I'd think your catfish would be fine with the
Bala Sharks.>
I even had an argument with the owner once because she thought
it was perfectly fine to keep SIX black ghost knife fish in a
FIVE gallon aquarium together.
<Hmm...>
So I don't think I can trust her judgment anymore. Unfortunately
that is the only petshop close to me.
<Try online. Join a Tropical Fish Forum of some sort, so you can
chat with other fishkeepers. This is fun, and you'll learn a
lot. They'll also recommend shops. Magazines are always a good
idea too. PFK has a regular "shop tour" feature where they go
around the country looking at tropical fish shops.>
So if you would tell me which brand or tank I could get online
and where to get it I would be extremely grateful.
Thanking you, Neervana.
<Cheers, Neale.>
Help
Hi Neale,
I'm not sure whether the whitespot has gone on the pictus or is
still here, she seems better than last time (very active, has
stopped breathing hard, no longer stays on the bottom but swims
everywhere, fins are no longer clamped to her side) - thanks to
you and the salt.
<All sounds promising.>
But the thing is the fin rot seems to be getting worse. Her fins
have turned a dark grey now, and seems to be getting a bit
pink-red. Her whiskers seem to be getting shorter and shorter.
Do you think it's a good idea for me to keep on doing the salt
treatment until next Wednesday and then switch to some other
medication for fin rot?
<You can safely use Finrot medication PLUS salt. Won't do any
harm using them together. As ever, make sure you have removed
carbon from the filter.>
I will have to order in the eSHa 2000 then if that's the only
one you think will be safe to use on her, but I will have to
know now because it will take a week for me to get it.
<For Finrot, I've found eSHa 2000 works well.>
I've already medicated her so much with that Protozin that I
would feel better if I knew I was using something mild.
<In my experience, it is safe with catfish and other delicate
species.>
As per your instructions, the temp is now up to 30 degrees c.
(did raise it slowly, one degree a day) Another thing, I have
this Aquael heater in the tank, and it's got some white powder
stuff at the bottom of it. When I took it out to clean it, I saw
that some of the powder has gone dark brown inside the glass.
Why is that? Does this means I need to buy another heater
because this one won't work anymore all that powder stuff's used
up?
<The white stuff is likely either salt or lime, precipitating
out of solution. It's quite normal, and you can wipe it away
under a tap. Remember, never place a warm heater in cold water:
it is liable to crack. So unplug, let it cool down, and then
clean. Your fish will be fine for half an hour without the
heater.>
Also, tell me when to start medicating for Finrot and when to
stop.
<I'd start at once.>
Thanks, don't know what I would do without you.
Neervana.
<Happy to help. Cheers, Neale.>
|
Re:
Help... Pim... 2/10/08
Hi Neale,
I'm worried that the fish may die before I get the fin
rot medicine. Do you think it will die before Monday?
<I have no idea.>
Its fins are nearly black, and is lined in dark pink
now. If I do a water change tomorrow as well do you
think it will survive until Monday evening? I'm worried
because its Finrot condition seems to have become worse
in a day or two. What should I do? Will the salt and
water changes I have been doing help the Finrot too?
<May help to some degree, but won't cure, and you *do*
need to treat, and soon. You could try doing a short
saltwater dip. 30 grammes salt in 1 litre of water
(taken from the fish tank). Dip the fish for a couple of
minutes, once or twice per day. In theory fish can be
dipped for up to 20 minutes, but let's be cautious for
now. The saltwater will help kill the bacteria on the
fins and cleans up the wounds. Do be careful: remove the
catfish if it shows signs of losing balance while being
dipped. Maybe do a 1 minute dip first, and then 2
minutes a few hours later. Repeat this until you get the
proper medication, at which point stop.>
Thanks, Neervana.
<Cheers, Neale.>
Re:
Help... Pim... Interpet?
Hi Neale,
When I rang the LFS the lady who I spoke to said that it
was not possible for them to get esha2000 for another
two weeks and that the only medication they have for
Finrot is Interpet Finrot and Fungus. I asked her if it
was ok for pictus catfish and she said yes. Should I buy
it? Advantage is that I can get it today and start
treatment today. What do you think?
Should I wait or get it?
<Interpet products are usually very good. Go for it! You
need to treat the catfish soon, and questions over which
brand the local pet shop has are really secondary.>
update: Catfish seems to be improving, does not look so
stressed and is used to me cleaning the tank now. Hardly
notices.
<Good. Sounds as if things are improving.>
Thanks, Neervana.
<Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Interpet?
Hi Neale,
Well I got the medication and added it to the tank. It
doesn't say when I should keep adding it to the tank or
for how long, like with the Protozin. Do you know how
long I should be doing it? Should I do a water change
tomorrow then add it again or leave it like that?
Thanks, Neervana
<Neervana -- Of course it tells you how often to add it!
Read the instructions! Interpet products have both [a]
instructions printed on the bottle; and [b] a little
booklet in the box that tells you how to use all of
their products. In most cases you have to mix the
"potion" with some warm water and then evenly distribute
it across the surface of the tank. The instructions will
explicitly state how many doses are required. I am not
familiar with this particular potion so can't tell you
off the top of my head. But a few minutes spent READING
THE INSTRUCTIONS is always time well spent. I would
avoid doing water changes until the course of medication
is finished. But obviously if the ammonia/nitrite levels
are critical, do water changes. And please, don't try
and get creative. Do exactly the dosing the package
tells you. Have someone else read the instructions if
you find them confusing. Making mistakes with
medications can either have the medicine do nothing or
else kill the fish. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Pim. Help
2/11/08
Hi Neale,
It's day two since I put that InterPet med in the tank. I can't see any changes
in the pictus. Do you think it's working?
<If used properly, yes.>
Also, If my nitrite levels go high, should I do a 30% change and then add the
medicine again?
<Do the water change, but don't add any more medicine until the next dose in the
treatment described on the leaflet.>
I looked up the fungus and fin rot medicine and some people say that it can stay
in the tank for as long as a week and that I should wait for a week before doing
a water change. I don't think I will feed the pictus for another two days.
<Fine.>
But if the water does become toxic how much should I take out?
<50%>
When will I see changes, if any?
<Assuming the bacteria are killed, fin tissue should grow back over the next few
weeks.>
Also, I am definitely getting another 200 gallon tank and this time housing a
Black Ghost Knife fish in there, but I heard that they do not like new tank set
ups.
<Indeed. They are very delicate.>
So how long do you think I should cycle the new one before its safe enough to
put a black ghost knife in there?
<Six months.>
Should I be adding in anything to cycle it?
<Time.>
Obviously I would want a fishless cycle, as that means less heartbreak for me
and a better life for the fish LOL so how long do you think I would need to let
the water stay in there for?
<If you're cycling with a product (e.g., Bio Spira) follow the instructions, and
then stock with suitable fish to keep providing ammonia for the filter bacteria.
If you cycle the tank, and then don't add any fish or feed the bacteria ammonia
some other way, the bacteria obviously die. I'd cycle the tank, and then add a
Plec or something.>
Thanks, Neervana.
<Cheers, Neale.>
Re: White Spot coming back...
Pim... 2/13/08
Hi Neale,
I think that the white spot has come back. I saw the catfish rubbing itself
against the gravel again. I'm worried, because I can't see any spots, but it can
see it flicking against the gravel. On the other hand, the fin rot seems to be
going away, its fins are healing nicely. I'm just worried that the white spot is
coming back, if so, what should I do? I have to do a water change tomorrow.
Should I treat the pictus for white spot with the Protozin and salt? I don't
want it to get white spot like last time again, but it might not have white
spot. I'm not sure. I also don't want it to get to a stage when it has spots on
it, then gets fin rot again.
What do you think I should do?
Thanks, Neervana.
<Keep treating with the Finrot remedy (if required) and the Salt/Temperature
protocol. Do a nice big (50%) water change when the first treatment for the
Finrot finishes. You probably don't need to use the Finrot medication *unless*
you think the fins are still infected. If they're clean and growing back, leave
things be. The Salt/Temperature should take care of the Whitespot, and after a
couple weeks you should then move it to the Bala Shark tank where water quality
is better. I'm worried the TANK is making this fish sick because it is
small/polluted. Cheers, Neale.>
Problem, Pim., more chatting
2-16-08
Hi Neale,
I put my pictus in the bala shark tank and I was observing her...She seems to be
acting weirdly. She darts about really crazily and then sits on the gravel for a
few minutes then swims in circles and then sits down again breathing rather
fast.
<Did you acclimate her to the new tank properly? Did you check that both tanks
had the same temperature, pH, and hardness?>
I don't know if there is anything wrong with her, she seems very healthy now,
but can't be sure.
<Assuming water chemistry/quality issues are okay, I'd not be too worried. Turn
out the lights, and don't bother feeding her. Give her the night to settle in.>
Why is she acting like this?
<Who knows.>
do Pictus catfish need rest?
<Sure.>
Also, I tried to feed her a pea but she just ignored it. How do I get her to eat
it?
<She won't be interested in food for at least 12 hours after moving tanks. Do
please read some general fishkeeping books. This is a basic aspect of fish care
(or indeed animal care generally). Animals HATE changes and LOATHE surprises.
What they want is routine. When you take them from 'home' and dump them
somewhere completely different, it takes a while for them to adjust.>
Just trying to keep some veg in the diet.
<Very good.>
Thanks, Neervana.
<Cheers, Neale.>
Re:
Problem 2-16-08
Hi Neale,
The nitrates and nitrites are both zero in the tank,
(showing up as white on the test strip) and the pH is
7.6 the pictus is just sitting down, been doing that for
ages now, just breathing a bit fast and lying on the
gravel.
<Do check the water isn't too warm and that their is
sufficient circulation to keep the bottom water mixing
with the top.>
Don't know what to do really.. she has been having these
spasms every time she moves and swims really fast, and
then stops and has that spasm thing again. What do you
think this could be?
<No idea.>
should I move her back to the other tank?
<Long past remembering the differences between all these
tanks. All I can say is that my advice is to keep this
fish in a mature, large aquarium with good water current
and appropriate water chemistry. Also make an effort to
read and learn about Pimelodidae catfish.>
Thanks, Neervana
<Cheers, Neale.>
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911 Redtail Catfish losing flesh!
7/20/08
I have 3 red tail catfish. One started floating upside down so I moved
him to another tank. The other two are still healthy. The sick one is now
losing his flesh. It is attached but it is floating in a big chunk. His eye
is cloudy and it look at first as if he had ick. I treated him with parasite
medication. At first he seemed to get better but then got worse. Now he is
losing his flesh but he is still alive. I'm assuming it is hopeless for this
one but what could cause this?
Rochelle
<Rochelle, there are two obvious problems here. Firstly, Phractocephalus
hemioliopterus is a territorial species that will attack and kill any fish
it views as a rival -- especially its own species. To keep more than one
specimen would require a tank something bigger than a swimming pool! So your
fish may simply be attacking one another. Secondly, these fish are hugely
sensitive to poor water quality, and parasitic infections are highly likely
related to these fish being kept in inadequate conditions (as is almost
certainly the case). These fish grow to well over 1 m in length and require
massive tanks with prodigious filtration, as well as extremely careful
control of how much food they receive. Please let me have more information
on the size of these fish and more important the aquarium. In the short term
though you will need to isolate all three specimens in their own tanks
containing not less than 200 gallons of water each, provided with filters
rated at not less than 2000 gallons per hour, and perform not less than 50%
water changes weekly. Stop feeding. Treat all fish with an appropriate
antibacterial or antibiotic such as eSHa 2000 or Maracyn. The fish with a
chunk bitten off from it may need veterinarian attention depending on the
damage; you will certainly need to clean the wound and determine whether it
is better to painlessly destroy the fish or treat it. Let me be crystal
clear about this: Phractocephalus hemioliopterus is not a viable choice for
the home aquarium. Cheers, Neale.>
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