New tap added is cloudy? Or system?  - 01/24/06
Help! I live in the country and use untreated well water for my 30 gal. fresh water aquarium. I was told to add water using distilled water from a 1 gal. jug. I treated it with Start Right....Within 3hrs. the water which is normally super clear, turned 'cloudy', What have I done? What can I do to rectify this? Thanks...DR
<... Mmm, likely this water is part of an "uncycled system". See WWM re "Establishing Biological Cycling" and "Water Quality". All that is necessary is time going by probably... along with checking (test kits) parameters. Bob Fenner>

Well water - 18/01/06
I am about to set up a new 29 gallon tank.  Our well water has a very low pH (around 5.3) and is treated with a simple system that drips a
soda ash solution into the supply.  The drip is adjusted to keep the pH at close to 7.0.  First, will the soda ash injure the fish, and second,
will the pH remain stable on standing?  If my treated water is a problem, what are the alternatives?
<I would proceed with caution, testing the water thoroughly first. Of greater immediate concern is the alkalinity. The pH will also likely rise further after standing / vigorous aeration. The effects on the fish depends on the species. Best regards, John>

RO/DI confusion - 1/18/06
I recently purchased a six stage RO/DI system. I hope to use the water for my freshwater(55gal-discus & angels)(20gal-planted community), nano-reef (20L-pair of false Percs and corals) and FOWLR(29gal-mono and green spotted puffer).
<small tank for these fish... monos prefer to be in groups and GSPs are best kept alone>
My questions are broken down into 1)mixing salt and 2) using RO/DI for freshwater tanks:
1) I have set up a reservoir to mix my salt. a ten gallon tank) The water is heated to 80 degrees. I have been running a powerhead with the aerating feature for 24 hours now. The pH tests at 7.6.(cheap Aquarium Pharmaceuticals test kit) (I trust that this will be fine after adding
Instant Ocean and I will test with an Aquarium Systems kit before using)
<No sense in testing the pH of newly produced RO/DI water.>
The total Alkalinity measures 1 mEq/L. (Seachem test kit) Here is where I get confused. I have read through the site extensively regarding buffering RO water.
<Should read zero.>
Some articles on the site recommend adjusting pH and alkalinity
before adding salt. Others claim that the salt mix contains enough buffers
on their own. What do you suggest?
<Ideally you would add the correct amount of buffer before adding salt... unless the salt is explicitly designed for RO/DI water. Of course, you will have to be adding the buffer after the salt for a while until you know how much to add.>
2) I also keep freshwater angels and discus. I would like to use the RO/DI water for these tanks. I am afraid of the low Alkalinity. I have not found any articles about buffering RO/DI water for these uses. (They may be out there, but my hours of searching the site has not found them.) What
procedures do you recommend for buffering RO/DI for freshwater applications?
<There should be a multitude of articles regarding buffering RO/DI for Discus. There are two possible methods: A) Cutting the RO/DI product with tap water to achieve the desired KH and GH, or B) replenishing the KH with a buffer (I use baking soda), and replenishing remaining minerals with a product such as Kent RO Right. You will need to "practice" adding these to spare water (and leaving the result to sit for a while) to learn how to make consistent water - it takes a while to get a feel for the correct amounts of these products, and too much / too little can be very damaging for the fish.>
If there is a good article on the site, could you please send me a link as I have not found it yet.
<search for "reverse osmosis" and "Discus" and possibly "reconstituting" on Google.>
Thank you for taking the time to share your experience with me.
<You're Welcome! Best regards from Shanghai, John>
Steve

RO/DI confusion   1/17/06
I found an article on the web re: reconstituting RO. Here is a link if you
have time. http://fins.actwin.com/aquatic-plants/month.9906/msg00208.html If
not, the basic formula they suggest is:
Chemical dose/ dose/ measurement
100 liters 50 gallons unit
Epson's salt 3.5 6.5 quarter teaspoons
calcium carbonate 6 11 600 mg tablets
baking soda 4 8 quarter teaspoons
potassium chloride 1.5 3 quarter teaspoons
What do you think about this recipe for using 100% RO for my discus and angels?
<Is a good, practical mix... I would try using about half the dosage here, and testing for what values you can to determine if the resultant water is "about" what you're looking for>
If you would recommend trying it, where can I find calcium carbonate and potassium chloride?
Thanks,
Steve
<Very likely a "health food store" will carry these in suitable quantities and finely ground enough to be practical for solubilizing. Otherwise, I'd search on the Net for folks re-packaging, selling small-enough supplies from an inorganic chemicals business. Bob Fenner>

Tiny Bubbles In The Tank  - 01/09/2006
Hi, I forgot to ask you this last time when I e-mailed you. On Nov. 28 (when I put up my x-mas tree) I had to move my aquarium because that was the place I had to put the tree.  I put all my fish in the 5gal quarantine tank and took out all the water from my main tank.  When I relocated it and filled it with water and added dichloride I saw many tiny bubbles attached to my plastic plants.  When I was adding water I added some hot water to warm the tank because it was too cold even for my goldfish.  Are those bubbles dangerous, if so what should I do about them. I am going to put the tank back to the original place after I get an answer from you.  THANKS!! :D
< These bubbles are probably compressed air trapped in the water. When the water comes out of the pipes the gases expand into bubbles and seem to cling to everything. They should be gone in a couple of days and present no problems. If you are on a well then it could be CO2 or some other gas. These produce carbonic acid and acidify the water. In this situation the water needs to be agitated or allowed to sit for 24 hrs to let the gases escape and the pH to reach its normal levels.-Chuck>

RO Buffer Problems  12/8/05
Crew,
<Hello Ryan... John here answering your query this morning.>
My fish friends are in trouble again. 
<Oh no!>
My tank is a 55 gallon freshwater and houses 5, 5" angles 2 mollies, a few scavengers, and 7 mixed-sized plants. Filtration is done by a Whisper 60 and an AquaClear 150 (bio media only). 
<Sounds good so far>
Here is the story... Six months ago I had an algae bloom that I could not get rid of. I tried using my Vortex DE filter as my main assault along with the low food, temp, and light but the bloom was too strong.  After about three weeks of battle I wound up putting the fish in the quarantine tank and started the main tank over.
<Ouch!>
I have come to the conclusion that my bloom problems due to my RO system. Here are my thoughts: In my basement
I have a Rubbermaid 34 gal trash can (with a few holes in lid) that I have my Kent HI-S three stage RO hooked into, the first set up I had only a power head running to keep the water "fresh". 
It seemed like an ok rig to me but after a little time I noticed a musty smell in the Rubbermaid- this was also the same time that my first algae bloom hit. I stopped using the RO when I re-set up my tank. My current/reformed RO system has new carbon and floss filters, float switch, and air line bubbler. 
All seemed good so I did my first RO water change about a week ago (no musty smell).  Yesterday I noticed a little green haze in the water and today I saw my dear friend Mr. bloom. 
<Yikes...>
When I checked my RO system the musty smell was back. I have caught this bloom in time and can probably handle it
but I need to know how to store my water so that I can use it and not destroy my tank. I hope this is sufficient info, if you need more let me know. 
<I am not convinced about the "musty smell" here... I often prepare RO water more than a week in advance for my freshwater tank, and, provided it is circulated well, have not met these problems. Have you tested the RO water for nitrates and phosphates before adding to the tank. A TDS meter will also give you some indication of the efficacy of the RO membrane.
Another thing to consider is how you buffer / reconstitute the RO water. You will need to add carbonates to raise the KH, and a product to raise the GH. Is there a chance that, instead of this, you are using a "pH adjuster" product that contains phosphates? This could be your problem.>
Thanks much, Ryan King
<Welcome! ...John>

Need advice on setup and possible Danio problem 10/30/05
Hello, I would first like to say what a great website you have! I have been spending hours a day the past couple weeks reading all the FAQ's and learning so much about keeping my fish healthy, and of course realizing what I have done wrong. Thank you for the load of information that you have! I decided to finally send in my questions and get your advice on a couple of issues.
To begin with let me tell you about my tank. It is a 75 gallon that has been running since June of this year. I have 2 Emperor 280's with BioWheels, UGF run by 2 Aquaclear 70's, 30" bubblewand and 2 other large ornaments with airstones, 250 watt Heater (installed 2 1/2 weeks ago),
<... you didn't have a heater previously?>
Eco-Aqualizer E125 ( just installed 10 days ago),
<And a pyramid hat?>
1 live plant ( not sure of what it is), 10 - 15 various plastic plants, and also plastic breeding grass.
Now for my fish I have..
8 Danios (4 zebra, 4 tiger)
1 Blue Dwarf Gourami
2 Guppies (1M, 1F, Had 3 F but lost 2 recently)
11 Various Platys (4 M, 7 F)
2 Neon Tetra's ( had 8 but have recently been losing them)
2 Black skirt Tetra's (1M, 1F)
2 Goldfish ( prizes from the fair in August, they have grown 3 times their original size and getting moved to another tank as soon as funds allow)
<A very good idea>
4 Albino Cory's
1 Pleco
2 Baby fry ( I believe 1 is a Platy and the other is a Guppy)
I am not sure if this tank is overstocked or not But I know you will tell me, at least I am hoping you would. Also I've learned from your site the I should not have the goldfish in there at all, but I assure you they will be moved very soon.
<Good>
Now onto my problems, after a couple months of losing several fish I had finally got a beautiful tank. I didn't know anything about cycling it or really anything about having and taking care of fish. On a whim I decided to get one for the house and luckily I started with a large one. After all the hardships and sadness of losing fish after fish I finally was able to enjoy the tank, I'm sure you know the relaxing power they have. Well the first of October the tank took a temp drop from a steady 78 degrees to 67 degrees in a matter of days.
<Yikes!>
I then noticed several of my platies with white spots 1 of them had the spots really bad. After doing some research I concluded that it had to be Ich and I treated the whole tank following the directions on the label I took out the carbon filters and all. Bought the heater and got the temp back up to the normal 78 degrees. After about 5 days the spots were gone except for the one Platy that had them worse Hers were gone after a week had gone by. However I didn't know that the treatment would cause my tank to have to recycle again.
<Yes, commonly so>
I started losing my fish again ( 6 neon's and 2 guppies). I had no idea what was going on ( which brought me to your site). And learning what the process of the cycle is. So I bought a testing kit and I believe I am almost done cycling, here are my readings from the last 3 days, maybe you can tell.
10/25 PH 7.0 Nitrite .25 Nitrate 0 Ammonia 0
10/26 PH 7.2 Nitrite .25 Nitrate 5 Ammonia 0
10/27 PH 7.2 Nitrite 0 Nitrate Less then 5 but not 0 Ammonia 0
My water is very soft due to a water softener installed for the house because we have well water.
<Mmm, you might want to "blend" in some percent of the well water... maybe 10%... to add "hardness" and alkaline reserve>
And I have always done a weekly 20 percent water change.  Do you think its almost done or do I still have a way to go?
<Looks about done>
I am sorry that this is so long but I thought it would help if you had all the information to go on. Because my last problem is the reason that tonight was the night I decided to write you. I came home and noticed one of my danios, it is a long finned by the way, has two orangey-red spots on her tail one along the very top and one along the very bottom. It was not there this morning when I left. It doesn't look like it was damaged by another fish and none of the other fish have these spots on them. I've looked on your site for some kind of clue what it could be but can not find anything. It is acting fine, not sick, very active, eating, playful as always. But I am still worried as to what it could be. Any help or advice you can give me would be greatly appreciated. Again I'm sorry for the lengthy email.
Thank you
Jennifer 
<Likely "just" environmental stress... should cure on its own with time. Cheers, Bob Fenner>  

Re: Need advice on setup and possible Danio problem 10/30/05
Hello Bob. Thanks for writing back. Yes I had put off buying the heater because the temperature in the tank had been steady, and then it suddenly got cold here outside.
<I see>
I just wish I had known before what it would do to my fish. But I know now! Of course the outbreak of Ich had me online looking up cures which brought me to the Eco-Aqualizer( which after almost 2 weeks has not cleared up the cloudiness, and its going back). But nope no pyramid hat. Would that help me?? ;->
<Hee heee, heeeeee!>
I'll start looking it up. LOL So as an update to my previous email. The 2 Goldfish are now in their very own 29 gallon tank with 2 Albino Cory's. I took gravel and 15 gallons of water out of the 75 gallon tank and put it in the new tank. So it wouldn't have to go through a whole cycle.
<Ah, good>
Unfortunately the Danio I wrote about with the spots on its tail, I found floating this morning. All the other's are fine, so I don't know what happened. As far as my 75 gallon tank though I would like to replace what I have lost through everything this past month. 6 Neon Tetras, 2 Guppies and 1 Danio. What is your opinion? Am I already full with what is left or do you think I have room in the tank for them?
<There is room>
As far as adding well water to the tank I have no access to the water. It is run through the softener direct from the main line. All I have between the softener and the well is a shut-off valve.
<Interesting... even the outside/garden hose water is softened? I would check on this>
Is there something I should buy and add to the tank for the hardness and alkalinity?
<Mmm, you could... but I would still find some "ordinary tap" to just blend in>
My water readings the past two days have been... The 28 PH was 7.0 Nitrite, Nitrate and Ammonia 0. And tonight the PH was 6.6
<Mmm, too much of a drop... you might indeed want to add a few teaspoons of sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) to a glass of water to the tank... to bolster its alkaline/pH stability>
( I assume from the water change) and Nitrite, Nitrate and Ammonia is 0. I don't add any water conditioner or anything to the tank because there is no chlorine in it. All I put in after a gravel vacuum and water change is stress coat. Do you think I should be putting anything in it to help with the cloudiness or will this also clear up after the cycle is through?
<Will clear on its own in time>
Thanks again for your advice.
Jennifer
<A pleasure to proffer it. Bob Fenner>

Re: Need advice on setup and possible Danio problem
Nope, even the outside faucets have the softened water.
<Very strange...>
I found this out
after filling our pool this summer. All the water went through the softener
and it went berserk because of all the cycles it had to do in two days.
<I'll bet>
(Whew but that was a whole other issue). Anyways after thinking a few
minutes I'm going to ask our neighbors if they can provide us with 8 gallons
of their water a week. I'm sure they will have no problem with this.
However our water (prior to the softener, acid neutralizer and some other
tank being installed) had the most terrible iron smell and had a slight
rusty color to it. If theirs is the same would that be harmful to the tank?
<Could be... you do want to have some "hardness" component/s to your water... though some of the fishes listed (e.g. Neons) prefer quite soft conditions... and little iron>
As for the baking soda would I do that with my weekly changes or if/when I
notice the PH drop?
<Best with the water changes>
Thanks for your help
Jennifer
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

RO water containing fluoride
I have a water cooler that has r/o water containing fluoride. Can I use that to add water to my fresh water fish tank?
Will the fluoride harm the fish?
thank you
<The amount of fluoride added to potable water is not harmful to aquatic life. Bob Fenner>

Chlorine Problems 8/5/05
Hello, First time participating in a web based FYI session.  I thought I
would send along my experience with the Bala swimming inverted
(simulating an infected swim bladder) and listless with heavy
breathing and sometimes they dart in all directions. I have lost about
2 dozen fish in my experience and would like to share what I found.  I
came across your page searching for albino Labeo chrysophekadion since
I have a 16-18 year old fish and thought I would start searching for
companions.  Anyhow,  I had 8 Bala's all around the 7-9 inch size in a
tank which was fueled by well water.  I moved to city water and within
the first two water changes lost all of them to toxic poisoning.  I
change my water once every 2 - 4 weeks and about 1/3 to 1/2 the water
at a time.  They were in a 70 gallon tank. This occurred 7 seven years
ago and with experimentation and scientific methods I noticed it was
mostly related to the chlorine levels in the supply water.  My pattern
was that I restocked the Bala's in spring and every winter they would
expire to poisoning.  Throughout the past seven years a water softener
was added to minimize some of the incoming toxins, and to a point it
did make a difference.  I found out that the cities water department
was increasing their chlorine levels in the water supply for a failing
pump and well.  Last summer the pump was replaced and I have had no
casualties since when executing a water change.  I found out that
silver scaled fish are more susceptible to toxic poisoning so I
suppose that Arowana's and Silver Dollars are in this category also.
I do take precautions when preparing to change my water especially in
the winter. The city engineer reminded me that the chlorine levels
will stay higher in colder temperatures since it doesn't have a chance
to "burn off".  So when changing water in late November to the end of
March I never change more than a 1/3 of water unless my chlorine test
strip (made by Jungle) assures me that the level is safe.  I noticed
that a lot of Bala Shark discussion occurs on the page
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwshkfaqs.htm and I think
that Chlorine Levels (especially from government water supplies
instead of private wells) could be the culprit.  Hope my experiences
help and maybe provides longer lives for the sharks in the hobbyist
tanks. Robert
< We will pass this along so others may learn from your experiences.-Chuck>

Chorine question 7/26/05
Hey there Wet Web People!
<Hi!>
I'm an 8th grade Science, and a colleague at a workshop asked this question
and I wanted to clarify the answer.
<Mentally I think I'm still in 8th grade>
We have been working with water quality
info at this workshop and the question was raised:  Does chorine absorb like
phosphates and nitrates or does it dissipate too quickly to allow for
absorption?
<Absorption into what?  Living tissue?  Chemical media?  Chlorine GAS at 1ppm can cause pulmonary (heart) problems in humans per http://jap.physiology.org/cgi/content/abstract/54/4/1120.  According to http://www.foxriverwatch.com/dermal_skin_pcb_pcbs_1b.html, aqueous (that means chlorine dissolved in water) chlorine and other PCB's (PCB's are chemicals produced with chlorine and another chemical called biphenyl, that are destructive pollutants, as they are readily absorbed by animal skin and tissues, and accumulate over time.  For example, if you are exposed to a certain amount of them, then later exposed to the same amount, you have doubled the amount in your body, because they are not excreted.  The pesticide DDT is an example of a PCB.  They are very destructive to animal food chains, especially to animals high up on the food chain, like eagles and sharks)  can be a hazard, as the absorption rate through skin is as high as 55%.  As far as dissipating aqueous Chlorine from water, most will dissipate within 48 hours, faster if the water is aerated, and within minutes if the water is boiled.  Chlorine is readily adsorbed by activated carbon, as well as other commercial chemical absorptive/adsorptives, such as Poly-Filter>   If you could possibly reply ASAP, that would be great!  I would
like to give this answer in the workshop tomorrow!  Too soon, don't worry,
I'll still take the answer!
<I hope I wasn't too confusing with my answers.  If you'd like to write me back an email that explains your question better, or if you want me to better explain my answers, I will be glad to help>
Thanks for you help!
<You're most welcome>
"Spunky" Sharon
<a sleepy Michael Maddox :)>

Water... 7/19/05
Hello Robert,
<Shawn>
I found your email address while I was surfing web for my question.
Is it better to use deionized water for a regular average fish tank (in
door) or tap water? or even ultra-pure (filtered)?
And why?
Thank you,
Shawn
<... please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/rofaqs.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Water question 7/12/05
I was wondering, i had a friend tell me that if you put tap water in a gallon jug and leave it for a week that it will become distilled and pure.  is this true?
Kim Kincer
<Mmm, not distilled, or pure... setting water out for a week will allow the sanitizer (chlorine, chloramine) to dissipate. This practice is "good enough" for most folks for making water fit to change out with their aquarium, aquatic systems. Bob Fenner>

Re: Water question 7/13/05
thank you so much for writing me back, you are awesome.  my friend who told
me about the idea of letting water sit uses the water to change out his
fish tank and says it is safe and i didn't believe him.  thank you sooooo
much.
<Leaving new water to set out for a week is a very good idea. Bob Fenner>

StressCoat Question
Hi,
I have posted a couple of threads about this on WWM, but can't really
get an answer from the other members. I'm hoping someone on the staff of
WWM can help. Here is my post: (there is an update at the end)
-------
I'm going to post this here, although I originally posted in the
Emergency section. At the time, it was an emergency; now it's just a
question to satisfy my curiosity.
Does anyone know if it is harmful for a fish to ingest StressCoat? I
have been using that product on and off for quite some time and have
never had a fish "eat" it that I know of, but I think that's what
happened the other night when my Betta showed signs of poisoning
immediately after I added it.
I called Aquarium Pharmaceuticals, and they assured me that StressCoat
has nothing "toxic" in it, and wouldn't be harmful if accidentally
ingested. [They went so far as to say that I could "dump a whole bottle"
in the tank and it wouldn't hurt the fish.] I had added precisely two
drops to a 2.5 gallon tank; they were dropped into the power filter so
that it would "mix" a little before being released into the tank. I
don't ordinarily do that, but it was an unusual situation. It never
crossed my mind that this was an unsafe practice; I have added various
medications to tanks - including bettas - over the years, and never
heard of an issue with a fish "eating" it and being poisoned. ???
This has really been bugging me!
---------
Update: While the Betta seemed to recover and has been acting normal, he
now seems to be constipated. I'm growing increasingly concerned that
some StressCoat was ingested and is clogging up his digestive system.
Does anyone know if this is possible or likely? I have been feeding him
a soft herbivore pellet once a day to try to get things moving again,
but so far I haven't had any luck. ??
Thanks.
<The ingredients in Stresscoat are not "very" toxic, but I do applaud your caution, practice of "mixing" this (and other) product to avoid consequences of concentration, ingestion. I would try adding Epsom Salt (gone over and over on WWM) to this fishes water. Bob Fenner>

Re: StressCoat Question
Dear Mr. Fenner,
Thank you very much for your response. The Betta seems to be doing a
little better and is passing a small amount of feces. Hopefully he will
continue to improve!
Regards.
<Ahh! Thank you for the good news. Cheers, Bob Fenner>

Environmentally Safe Fish Additives
Greetings! I am a former Green Guide writer www.thegreenguide.com, and was really surprised to learn, when I set up a small freshwater tank for my children, that so many home aquarium products (algae controllers, fish medicines) contain chemicals considered carcinogenic in the state of California. And I know there are additional issues with acquiring marine fish - cyanide, certainly. So - the Green Guide has authorized me to write and research a very brief 200-word piece of advice to consumers on Earth-friendly and non-toxic aquarium practices. Would you have any time soon to talk briefly, and being a principal source for this piece? 
< Fish live in water. Almost all tap water has a carcinogen (Chlorine or Chloramine) in it to make it sake for drinking. While humans may be able to handle this many fish cannot, so it must be removed. Chlorine can be removed by aerating the water. If fact in very old fish books it would recommend filling aquariums using a watering can. They didn't know why it worked but they knew that it did make the water better. Chloramine cannot be removed this way so chemicals are added to make it safe for fish. After that the pH or hydrogen concentration of the water may need to be adjusted. This is usually done by adding or removing minerals in the water. The minerals affecting the pH can be removed with reverse osmosis or deionization. The minerals added to the water could be as simple as baking soda. Weak acids used to lower the pH are usually ineffective and only work for a short time. When fish get sick then the world of capitalism takes over with a chemical cure for everything. Unfortunately 95% of these are ineffective and a waste of money because they contain so little active ingredients. Check our FAQ's and you will find most responses come with a water change and a good tank cleaning. I recommend only a handful of medications for specific ailments. I have 40 aquariums full of fish and the only chemicals I keep on hand are some water conditioners and Rid-Ich (malachite green and formalin) by Kordon. The antibiotics I use I buy so sparingly they would expire before I would need them another time. The salt water guys are pretty savvy to the cyanide fish situation and the seasoned dealers that have been around for awhile know who to buy from. The key to a successful aquarium is education and not chemicals and that's what we do here at WWM, educate the novice aquarist. Sorry, no time for calls, need to get to another question.-Chuck> 

Brown water...HELP!
I recently added Peat Moss as a medium in my filter process with the understanding that it would help control the pH levels. As a result, I now have brown water. I know this is harmless, but it is very unattractive.
<Yes>
I have carbon as part of the medium, and thought that would eliminate the color problem. It has not.  Any ideas?
<Mmm, you might need a "better grade" of carbon... "activated" (animal bone is best)... otherwise serial dilutions with new water during changes... Bob Fenner> 

Treating New Water
Hi Chuck, Thank you for your quick reply and great advice. I wanted to know if I bought a Brita system would I also treat that with a water conditioner to eliminate Chloramines?
< As long as the ion exchange resin is working properly you no not need to add any water conditioner unless you were after a specific affect.>
How long do I let the treated tap water sit before I put it in the tank? a day, several hours?
< I would let it sit out a day.>
Are there any signs goldfish exhibit if they're in distress from bad water?
< Heavy breathing would be the first sign of stress.>
Would you recommend a special filter that should be used in the tank? Currently I use a Whisper Micro Filter with activated carbon and ammonia fighting crystals. I will buy a new filter system once I move because I plan to get at least a 75-150 gallon tank. Thanks again for all your great advice. Sharon Headrick
< For large tanks I have a preference to the Marineland Emperor Series. They are very easy to service and I really like the Bio-Wheel feature.-Chuck>

Water from a de-humidifier
Hi Crew First of all let me thank you all again for the great service you provide, advise like this is hard to find in the UK Now this may sound like a very strange question, but where we live the water from the tap comes out with around 50ppm Nitrate, which obviously makes it fairly un-usable for marine aquariums, I do run the water through an RO unit 
for top ups and water changes, but I still get a small amount of Nitrate in the resulting water (maybe time to change the filters).
My question is this.
I have my Aquarium in the conservatory at home and run a de-humidifier during the night to stop any condensation forming on the windows etc. just out of curiosity I tested the water that the de-humidifier collects during the night, I get around 2 gallons every 3-4 days, and it just goes down the drain.
The results were quiet staggering, this water appears to have nothing in it, no Nitrite, Ammonia, Nitrate or even Copper.
Could this water be used to top up the evaporation from the tank, after all it is really only the stuff that evaporates from the tank but ends up clean. 
Would there be anything that would harm the fish in it, or is it just dead water that would be no good at all? 2 gallons of totally clean water every 3-4 days would seem like a waste if it could be used. 
Hope you can help Best wishes Robbie York England
<Using this water to top of the tank would be ideal. It keeps the water chemistry of the tank consistent.-Chuck> 

Setting up a new freshwater aquarium in a house with softened water
Hello: I live in a house with a well. We have a great deal of sulfur, iron and hardness to our water, so it goes through a green sand tank and a water softener before it gets to every tap in our house. We have an R/O unit in our kitchen, but it comes in after the water has gone through the softener. The only tap we have that DOESN'T go through the softener first is an outside tap. Not a problem in the summer, but where I live we have real winter (it's about 16 degrees with a foot of snow on the ground now), so using it from about mid-November through early April doesn't seem practical. The fish and plants that I am interested in keeping are all said to prefer "soft" water, but I presume that artificially soft water is not suitable. So, my question is this . . . is there a way to "rescue" softened water so that it can be used in a freshwater aquarium? Thanks for so much for sharing your expertise with us novices! Susan Luse 
< You have the answer already. A water softener just replaces minerals like calcium and magnesium with sodium and potassium. A R/O unit actually removes 96%+ of all the minerals and so it softens the water by forcing the water through a membrane leaving very pure water. Use your R/O water with a buffer to stabilize it. You are ready for soft water fish like discus, angels, and tetras.-Chuck>

Aging water question
Wonderful site. My question is about fish gasping for air and the proper way to age water for water changes. Up to a couple of months ago I used to dechlorinate the water then leave in buckets for water changes, no air stone or air circulation.
<Good questions>
However I noticed that after I use the water the bucket has a slimy film along the walls...
<Strange>
..so instead I put the dechlorinator Stress Coat a few minutes before use. I thought maybe that since there is no chlorine bacteria is growing in it and couldn't be good. If it's too cold I add some hot water right out of tap to match aquarium temperature.
<Good technique... this is what I do>
Well the fish didn't seem to mind until today in the 10 gallon planted tank with 6 tiger barbs in it. After about an hour they were all at the surface gasping for air. Since its planted I didn't have an air stone in it so added air = no difference, still gasping. The only other thing that was different is that I left the lights on a bit much yesterday and the water was starting to get cloudy.
<I wonder why?>
Before the water change fish were great, eating and chasing each other, I don't know exactly what happened and what I should do. At the same time following the same procedure but water wasn't cloudy I did a water change in a 55 gallon and the angelfish just love it. Any ideas? Thank you beforehand for your help, you have been great in the past.
<I do suspect your source/tap water is like ours, an inconsistent product... Municipalities "pulse" a great deal more sanitizer (generally chloramine) into tap at times... if they detect bacteria at distal points of delivery, don't get a titer of sanitizer from testing same... I have seen the amount overdosed some 30 times in concentration in Los Angeles. I would either overdose with the conditioner (too late at this point) if you see this again, and would go back to letting the new water set out (for a week or more)... and I would add a simple filter of some sort to your small planted tank for aeration, circulation... Bob Fenner>

Tetra AquaSafe
Hello, it's me again! In the past week I have e-mailed you a bunch of times with a variety of questions... most recently about a seemingly healthy Kissing Gourami that I found dead this morning...and you have been so accommodating. Trying to find out where I may have gone wrong with the Kisser (if in fact I did), I stumbled upon one of your articles on water treatments. I did my best to ascertain the efficacy of my current conditioner, and I must admit I failed. I have been using Tetra AquaSafe. It claims to "neutralize chlorine, chloramine, and heavy metals", and to "enhance the natural, protective slime coating of fish". Its principle ingredients are "Sodium hydroxymethane sulfinate, polyvinyl pyrollidones, organic hydrocolloids, and organic chelating compounds". Does this sound in any way harmful?
<This is a fine, safe, effective product... not toxic by any of its constituents or their combination>
I use it about once a week when I add a couple of gallons to replace evaporated water.
<Ah, would be better to remove some water at this time... not simply "top off"... to keep mineral content overall stable...>
I usually fill a five gallon bucket with water at the appropriate temperature, add a half a teaspoon and stir it with the handle of one of my nets, let the fizz dissipate, and then add it. Is this a safe practice? Any help is, of course, greatly appreciated.
Sincerely, Walt
<Sounds like a good routine, no worries. Bob Fenner>

Re: Tetra Easy Balance Overdose! Please help!
Thank you for your help! That was a very fast response. It is a day later, and "Dude" is still at the bottom of his tank. He now has a thin, clear, stringy poop that is strung all over the tank, like it won't break. He won't react to me, even when I try to get him to move. I have the feeling that he is going downhill. Really, the only "symptom" that he shows is the weird
poo, but otherwise his body is clean and his stomach looks normal. I guess I will just wait it out and hope that he recovers. Do you have any other information for me about "Tetra Easy Balance", and if it is good to use or not?
<Is a good product... company... But do agree with your frequent water changes instead of their stated possibility>
Thanks for your help, and I really like your website. It's been very helpful. (If he makes it through this, I will definitely invest in a bigger tank! I owe it to him! :)
<Ah, good. Bob Fenner> 

R/O question
Hey,
I stumbled onto your site the other day after searching for discus online. let me say that you have a great site with a lot of helpful info. Let me give you a quick run down of my situation. I bought a 46 bowfront tank second hand and it came with 10 small brown and one larger blue/green discus. After a 2 hour drive and the setup 2 of the smalls died (3 months ago) so I am now left with 8 brown (orange is more like it) and the larger fish. Before and especially after looking at your website, I decided on a planted tank. So far I have regular plain somewhat med/small gravel in there with some swords which are starting to settle in. I just purchased a 110 watt lighting top so the plants should start doing better (also have a DIY in there). 
Here is the problem...
The tap water in my area is hard with about 8ph. The fish are doing ok in it, but obviously could be doing better in softer/lower ph water.
<You are correct>
One of the options I currently have is an R/O system. It would be used for drinking water as well as the tank.
<Good>
Since I have never had an R/O system before, this is where the confusion begins. 
<I am a BIG fan of these units...>
I have looked through different stores as well as different sites for ideas but have yet to find a system I am happy with (since I don't really know what to look for) and the articles on krib are from 92 and around that time. I found a system on Costco. COM which doesn't waste any water (at least it's their claim) which leads me to believe that all the others do. this system would run about 310.00 and it's their only system. Costco's RO Unit.  On EBay I found a bunch of systems for $100-$200.  I know you are seriously busy and said to check out your faq and the rest of the site (which I did and did not find an answer to this). If you can point me in the right direction, I would most certainly appreciate it.
Thanks, David
<No worries... David, there are only slight "variations" in these units... akin to "super" or "regular" gasoline... All these units "will do"... the amount of water actually "wasted" (vented, more solute laden) is actually miniscule... folks lose more water from leaks... long showers... a concern in some places... and a possibility to build.... perhaps a pond! To vent this water to... and in turn to landscape irrigation... Do take a read through the many RO FAQs filed here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/h2opurifiers.htm the blue, linked files at top... for more opinion, input. Bob Fenner

Freshwater aquarium fish kill - please help
Is there such thing as a freshwater aquarium snowstorm?
<Hmmm>
I have checked with local pet shops and aquarium sites, but not having much luck here. I have following setup:
-55 gal freshwater tank
-tap water is hard water that I'm told is treated with chlorine gas and polyphosphate to keep iron in suspension
<Ah!>
-I have a water softener that uses salt for re-charging 
<Oh!>
-I make water changes direct from tap using python gravel vacuum.
- The replacement water comes right from the tap, and is mix of softened water (hot tap) and hard untreated water (cold tap) to balance temperature.
-I then add some aquarium fresh water salt treatment
-I add sodium thiosulfate for chlorine neutralizer
<Bingo!>
While I've done this water change process for years without issues, recently there has been some type of chemical reaction that has been very hard on my fish. 
<Yes>
Problem appears as a gradual clouding of the water after partial water change - getting really bad in about 3 hours.  At this point the fish are at the surface gasping for air. 
<No doubt>
The water clears - usually in about 12 hours, and often no later than about 24 hours. After the water clears, I have a fine white residue that sticks to all surfaces, including glass sides of aquarium. Even the gravel is coated white, and you can see where concentrations of this very fine white powder residue is pulled into the gravel with the undergravel filter. I scrape the white off the glass with magnetic algae scraper.
<Yes>
When the water clears, the fish recover and appear healthy again after the residue settles - if they lived through the initial storm.  Unfortunately last night I had a very bad reaction and lost 7 fish (two large silver dollars and a large angel - all which were about 10 years old, and four small silver dollars) only 4 small angels survived and remain in the tank. I would like to figure out what this reaction is and prevent it from happening again before adding more fish just to kill them.
<How much of the chemical energetics would you like to discuss? Or just a solution?>
This snowstorm doesn't produce large flakes as related to saltwater tanks, but instead is a very fine white powder residue.
Any help here would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks, John Rogers
<John, DO get and dedicate a plastic trash can of size (my fave brand a Rubbermaid "Brute"... with a top and even their spiffy rolling base if you can/want... and USE this to store, aerate and NOT add the thiosulfate to new tap... for later (several days, a week...) use in your tanks... you can add a heater, a powerhead or recirculating submersible pump... that can also be used to pump the new water to your tanks... the "poly" flocculant is interacting with the softener salt rechargent residue... would be better to "turn off" the softened water source... by using the hose from outside... OR a reverse osmosis device period... with just some tap water blended in for mineral content. Bob Fenner>

pH Shock
Hi. We have very hard water in our area and hence we use water softener (that uses potassium pellets). Apparently, this increases the alkalinity of our water. I just recently installed a 10 gallon freshwater aquarium in my home and used this water. I bought some fish like platy and zebra. These fish died after a few days and apparently non of them survived. I checked my water: Everything looked fine except the alkalinity and the pH. The pH was high around 7.7. I treated my water with PRIME which removes all the nitrites etc and I also have a filter with carbon. I used a pH reducer also. It brought down the pH to around 6.8-7.0 but the very next day the pH again increased to its initial levels. I am frustrated and don't know what to do. Can you give me some advice on how I can use my home tap water (which goes thru the softener) in the aquarium. Any advice/suggestions you can provide is appreciated. Thanks, Kumar
<Ok, I'm going to assume you are still fishless. Right now I would drain down 90 to 100% of the water and refill with water from the tap. Your pH of 7.7 is high, but killer high. It's a change in pH that kills. Not a steady but "incorrect" pH. Then do a fishless cycle by adding in a raw shrimp. Test for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. When the first two have spike and crashed to zero AND nitrate is on the rise, you are cycled and can stock the tank. Expect this to take 4 to 6 weeks. Do not add anything except dechlorinator. One time when refilling. When you add fish, check the pH of the bag water. If it's the same as your tank float it for 20 minutes or so to match the temps and release them. If they are not the same, add about 10% tank water to the bag about every 20 minutes or so. When they match, release them. The more the two pHs differ, the slower you need to adapt them. If they are way off, more than a full point, you may want to put them in a small bucket with their original water and set up a drip system. Use regular airline tubing with a knot tied in it. Adjust the knot so only a slow drip is siphoned from the main to the bucket. As you are seeing, changing the pH of your water is a touchy subject. Hard to maintain and makes water changes a hassle and a danger. Best to let the fish adapt, IMO. Don>

Dechloraminators... real ones
Ok the wool has been pulled over my eyes all these years. I thought I had a
real "water conditioner" through the local LFS, even a guy I trust etc. So,
your article leads me to believe I am not using the real thing, I do really
regular H20 changes with a small amount of salt) and use the store bought
conditioner. Keep in mind I am not a chemist, I need a simple  method of
making my water right during water changes. Please advise.
*65 gallon tank with two 5" chocolate cichlids, two parrot fish (bloody
parrots hybrids crossed with Severums etc.) a red hook silver dollar and a
beautiful Rhino Pleco.
< It all depends on what your water conditioner to do. If all you want to do is remove chlorine then even the cheapest ones do that. If you want a water conditioner to remove both chlorine and Chloramine then I would recommend Amquel plus by Kordon. It removes these plus many nitrogenous substances that are found in many municipal water sources. If you need a water conditioner that helps provides a protective coating then try Biocoat by Marineland.-Chuck>
Richard.

Arowana and chlorine
Hello guys,
<Hello...Jorie here>
With weekly water change (20%) ,if I don't have space to age water or condition them, how can I transfer tap water into my 125 gallon fish tank, without negatively affecting my baby Arowana?
<I really don't see how you can get around having separate containers to age/condition the water.>
Can I just put the recommended amount of Amquel plus, Novaqua, and aquarium salt into the tank before I use a hose and transfer tap water?
<I would definitely suggest against that plan - sounds risky and downright unsafe to the health of your livestock, in my opinion.>  
Kordon states that it might take several minutes before Amquel plus and Novaqua completely eliminates chlorine, chloramines, and etc. with that several minutes........will that have negative effects to my baby Arowana?
<I would think this would have negative effects on any fish.  I think you've pretty much answered your own question, my friend! It isn't worth the risk of harming the fish, if you ask me.>
what do you guys recommend?  Any alternatives besides storing water into another tank or several buckets ?
<I don't personally have any super-large tanks, so I just use 5 gal. buckets for my fresh and brackish water.  I have heard of people using large Rubbermaid-type trash containers (NOT metal ones) for water aging...perhaps look into this as an option.>
Thanks,
Antonio
<You're welcome. Jorie>

Are "Beneficial Electrolytes" Beneficial?
Hi Crew. The water conditioner, I use says it "... adds beneficial electrolytes and guards against secondary infection ...". What does that all mean? Is the good or just a sales pitch? Also, do you know of a good book on the ins and outs about taking care of Bettas.
Thanks,
Mario D.
<Your conditioner has some salt in it. A sales pitch. As to a book, I asked around and no one seems to know a good book on just Bettas. Look for something with a resent date, or an online Betta site. Don>

Potassium Chloride
Hello,
Is water softened with potassium chloride fatal to any freshwater fish?
< There are no fresh water areas that I am aware of that have high levels of potassium. The tolerable levels may be species specific. I think before I invested a large some of money into any fish I would set up a quarantine tank and try it out. Just off the top of my head I don't think it is good for them.-Chuck>
Thanks!!

Aging water
Hi,
I searched around for info on water for water changes but have decided to simply ask the question.  For my 2 fresh water aquariums (one high plant load low fish load the other high fish load low plant load) I do a water change each week for one tank, so each tank is changed every other week. <If this works for you, I'd hate to suggest a change. But if it was me I'd do more changes on the high fish, low plant tank and less on the other> After I finish the water change I fill my bucket with tap water and let it sit until the next water change. <Good, do you add a dechlorinator?>  I place in the bucket a small internal filter which I use to circulate the water and a heater to get the temp to that of the aquariums.  The question is: is there any benefit to use filter media in the filter? <Not really. Many use a powerhead just to keep the water moving> Would running the water through a charcoal pad designed for the small filter make the water better for the tank? <Tiny, if any change at all>
Thanks <Your welcome>
Keith <Don>

Ammonia in well water
Hi Don - My water is well water and contains no chlorine. As such, do you still say "no" to the C-100 water purifier since you say that I have to wait for the filter to remove the ammonia, and the ammonia level is unsafe? <Never said no, just think you'll be cycled in another week or so. I'm not familiar with that model, but if it is a RO/DI unit it will be fine. Be careful of the resin type filters. I would not use one of them.> Wouldn't the purifier help faster or does that just introduce more problems into the tank? My source water is also .25 ammonia so it doesn't seem like much help by changing the water daily but putting the same amount of ammonia into the tank. <Help is with that 5.0 nitrite we started with. It would be better for the fish if that ammonia was not in your source, but it does tell us something. If your adding .25 in daily 50% WCs to a tank with fish but it never rises above .25 than the first part of the cycle is taking hold. Bet if you check just before a WC it would be near zero.> Also to clarify, my salt container says 1 Tbls per FIVE GALLONS of water but you say one Tbls per ONE gallon? <That's as much as I would put with a Pleco. Meant it as a max level, after you had mentioned using 2 Tbls in a WC. The best level for a Pleco is zero, but up to a Tbls per gallon will not hurt him.> I don't want to overload Picasso, my Pleco. <Cute> My water test kit shows .25 ammonia to be in the "safe" level <I'm sure there is a safe level for many poisons, but zero is the only true safe level.> so I'll change that for my own records since I trust you much more than some generic printing on a box. <Why? I'm just printing on a monitor. But thank you> Will also keep trying to get to the forum. <Left a post about this with Zo, the site admin.> This is all so much more than just buying the aquarium and putting the fish in as the store described! <Doing it right is.> But it's still fun and I'm looking forward to when this is finally cycled so I don't worry about these fish so much! <You have hardy fish that are being given fresh water. They'll be fine> I'm still afraid I'm going to lose these last 3 - like lots of others, hopefully, I consider these fish "pets" instead of disposable fish. <The feelings of most in the forum.> I found some algae discs for Picasso and after seeing the two goldies sleeping last night I dropped two in the tank - both gone this morning so hopefully he had a feast! <Try to put a little bowl or a clean ashtray in the gravel to feed the wafers from. They break down and get in the gravel. If not, hit that area with the gravel vac. Hope he ate them though> Thanks much - Robin <No problem, Don>

Tap Water
Hi Bob,
thanks for your immediate reply to my inquiry.
I live in Queens New York.
Since most tap water are chlorinated..........plus I see in my bathroom...that some of the area where tap water runs....becomes brownish in color...so I believe some chemicals are in the tap water.
I intend to use tap water to have a water change in my 30 gallon tank (25% every other week).
But since chlorine and some chemicals present in the tap water is bad for the fish..........I am planning to put 10 gallon of water in my extra tank.......and run my extra emperor power filter (w/ activated carbon and SeaChem bio matrix on the two slots)......and treat it with a detoxifier................and let it stay there for two weeks.  I will use this water for my 30 gallon....and hopefully this is good (is it?) ....and I don't have to buy those expensive tap water filters.
My questions are:
1.)  what other inexpensive ways can I treat my tap water?
2.) are there any other ways that I can treat my tap water....w/o using chemicals such as detoxifiers for ammonia and chlorine?
thanks so much!!!
sincerely,
Antonio
>>>Hello Antonio,
Are we talking a freshwater tank here? As long as it's a freshwater tank, (and not a discus tank) I would just treat the water with Amquel, Novaqua, and dump it in. I've been doing it this way for 20 years with no problems. :) In reality you needn't get all the dither about tap water. Dumping it straight into a reef can cause issues, but as long as you treat it, there is no problems with regard to most freshwater tanks.
Cheers
Jim<<<

Tap Water Filtration - 2
Hi Bob,
Yes sir....I have a 30 gallon freshwater tank.   I have a baby Arowana (5 inch jardinii).  In less than a year...I will transfer this jardinii to at least 125 gallon tank.
So, just treating the tap water using Amquel before I put it into my 30 gallon tank...will be safe enough?
I am afraid that my tap water have too much ammonia, chlorine, chloramines, and other bad chemicals that will kill my Arowana...during a change of water.   that's why, I want to run it first through a filter for a week....to purify it :D
thanks so much for all your info. and answering my questions.
Sincerely,
Antonio
>>>Hey Antonio,
Jim here again. I answered your last 3 queries, not Bob.
I've never run into tap water that wasn't safe after treated with the two products I mentioned. I've never in all my years found it necessary to treat water in a separate tank to make it safe. I know other keepers from your area, and they have no issues. This is drinking water we're talking about yes? If it gives you peace of mind, by all means filter away for as many weeks as you wish. It certainly can't hurt! :)
Cheers
Jim<<<

Tap water filtration
Hi there,
<Hello John>
Since I don't have enough money to buy........tap water filter (reverse osmosis...and etc)...that cost $100 or more.......and buying cartridges that are costly.  
<Umm, let's stop right here... what is it about your source water that is of concern? There are some specialty and intolerable water conditions by various kinds of aquatic life... but by and large tapwater simply treated can be used on the vast majority>
I am just wondering if I already have an extra emperor 280 power filter (will be using black diamond filter cartridge and 4 ounces of Seachem bio matrix on the extra cartridge....plus bio-wheel)  ...in a 10 gallon aquarium.......................can I just put unfiltered water in this set-up for 2 weeks.........................then use this water to replace 25% of my 30 gallon tank every time I make water change?
<Likely so. You can request an analysis from your water provider as to the chemical and physical composition of the product they're providing you.>
will this 2 week filtered water by emperor 280 power filter ...............be a safe water to use?  ammonia, chlorines, nitrates, nitrites, and other bad stuff........eliminated after 2 weeks?
<Very likely so. I take it you intend to treat new water this way, then use it to change water in your main/display tank.>
thanks so much,
Antonio
<You are welcome. Bob Fenner>

Tap water filtration...follow-up question
Hello,
<Hi again>
I forgot to add that (with my email below) .....during that 2 week filtering.........I will also add....Kordon Amquel (or any other brand), to instantly remove ammonia, chlorine, and chloramines.   
with everything stated..........will my plan work?  do you have any suggestions?
thanks,
Antonio
<Should be fine. You might want to invest in some water quality test kits to be able to check. Bob Fenner>

Water treatment
Hi Chuck,
You mention below "Try clean warm water that has been
treated for Chloramines".
What I do is, I fill a bottle with tap water and let
the water in the bottle sit for 4 to 5 days. I was
told this would remove all the chlorine or chloramine
in the water.
< This would remove chlorine but not chloramine. You need a specific water conditioner that says it removes chlorine and chloramine.>
Is this OK or should be adding tap water treatment
even if the water has been sitting for a few days at
room temperature ?
< Find a water conditioner at the local fish store or go to DrsFosterSmith.com and get some Amquel by Kordon.>
Am I doing any harm to the Beta, they seem fine,
except for the male's fin ?
<If the males fin is being eaten away by bacteria then he is not fine.>
There is a product called "CYCLE" by Hagen that would
treat the water so that the ammonia and nitrites level
would be in cycle. Have you hear of such a product?
< This adds beneficial bacteria but you will have to measure these levels to see if it is working. I don't think it will hurt.>
For someone who prefers to clean the water one a week
would such a product be useful to add after each
cleaning to control the ammonia and nitrites level
between
cleanings ?
< If you did a 100% water change and cleaned the entire Betta bowl then this product could be beneficial after the water has been treated for chloramines.-Chuck>
Thanks,
Mario D.

Water flow question, pollution comment
Hi Crew, <Hi Roy, MacL here with you this fine day.>
I've been reading your FAQ's and cruising through the website for a bit now and have enjoyed it a lot.  Figure I have even learned a thing or two. <Nice to hear, I know I learn every single day.>
I've a question or two for you, but first.... Saw the below question and answer and thought I'd pass something along.  I worked in an oil refinery in a city with air quality nowhere near as bad as LA's.  In talking with the company's plant environmental officer I learned that the rain falling on the plant was "dirtier" than the water we were allowed to discharge from the plant.  In other words, we had to clean up the rain water falling on the plant property before it went into the city's storm drainage system. <Yes I understand what you are saying. The acid rain that's falling.>
Personally, under these circumstances I wouldn't use rain water without "cleaning" it first, period. <I remember when my family was talking about how that's most of the water they drank, rainwater and now its just not safe. I guess my thinking about rain water or water from any source is that I would have it tested to see what's in it before I used it.>
The Q and A (from FAQs About Water Evaporation, Make-Up H20):
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
We Get Rain, Let's Use It!
>Hello,
>>Hello.
>I have a 50g reef tank. I was wondering if using rain water in Los Angeles
>that comes directly from the sky (not from drains or runoff) is alright to
>use for make-up water?
>>Treat as you would RO/DI (it would be VERY soft, and require proper
>>buffering).
>Should I worry about pollutants in the air?  thanks.  Jason
>>I would not use the "first rain", but living in L.A. myself, I would think
>>that what we got yesterday would give you quite a bit after the first half
>>hour or so.  I think you can certainly try (do keep an eye on our news
>>stations' air pollution reports for your best information), and if in
>>doubt, filter through carbon and a Polyfilter, then buffer.  Marina
End of Q and A
Marina may have more experience on the subject than you or I Roy, I never underestimate these WWM people they are quite amazing but generally you don't think that what's falling on your head is dangerous.  Also there is some question about standards for human consumption as opposed to standards for fish.  And I gotta be very honest here and tell you, the water where I live is filled with chloramines and I refuse to drink it. It smells bad and it tastes bad and honestly I just don't think I want to drink chlorine and ammonia linked together. Just my two cents on the matter>
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Now for the questions....
I'm considering setting up three freshwater aquariums in series.  Water would flow from one to the other.  The last one would have water flowing out of it into a sump with filter media, chiller (I'm in the Arizona desert), and heaters (for the winter month), UV sterilizer (because of feeder fish). <Stupid question here but are the feeders the last in the line before the UV cause if not they've polluted all the tanks with the water that passes before they get to the UV.> A pump would circulate the water back to the first aquarium in the cycle.  Each tank is at a different height, so syphoning between the tanks should work.  I would use overflow boxes to eliminate the chance of draining any of the tanks.  I've also thought about using several pumps, one or two each per tank and hooking each tank directly up with the sump. <Indeed> However, this would be less efficient, would increase plumbing requirements, and would have a higher initial cost due to the number of pumps.  <True but it would also allow you to isolate the tank should it be necessary with an outbreak of anything.> There is a third possibility which I am considering, too.  That is having some water flow from the fish only tank to both the sump and the next tank in the cycle.  That would make sense from the standpoint from what I've read that plant tanks don't need the high flow rate. <Interesting concept, would keep the plant tank out of the loop as well but you might loose out on the benefits that the plant tank provides, a much higher daytime oxygen saturation.>
I'm thinking that I can eliminate some of the undergravel and hang on filters with this setup. Additionally, maybe I can accomplish some other objectives. I have limited space for sumps, so one sump working for all three tanks would be great. <Understood, I think it would also help having one chiller for all the tanks> I understand from what I've been reading that plants use nitrates as nutrients.  If using plant tanks for this purpose would actually work this would reduce the number and amount of water changes.  I'd end up with different kinds of tanks sharing in the handling of different aspects of the water filtering/conditioning process.
Tank info:
1st tank - 105 gallon - well established
Fish only (Arowana, Lima Cat, Dinosaur Eel (for now), Koi, Pleco, Pacu).
Uses undergravel filters (3 inches of gravel) with 4 AquaClear 802 powerheads and a Fluval 303 canister filter.  Can't put plants in this tank because of fish activity.  Additionally the Pacu would eat them. <This tank just blows my mind, I can see all the fish together BUT the Koi.  Size wise it would work, even possibly aggression as well as Koi are mega feeders but I just cannot picture these fish in with Arowanas and pacu.  Don't get me WRONG I LOVE AROWANA', find them simply amazing fish but its the combination that gets me here. I'm assuming this tank needs that mega filtration and I'm not sure that you will be able to get away without having some dedicated carbon for this tank. The fish you have in here are mega waste producers.>
2nd tank - 125 gallon - not yet set up Lots of plants and a few smaller fish and has undergravel filters. <Understood, gives you a nice balance of large and small fish as well.>
3rd tank - 55 gallon - well established Lots of plants and about 2 dozen fish (feeders, so number goes up and down) and has 2 AquaClear 610 hang on filters. <Hang-ons for the feeders waste production I am sure.>  Also has undergravel filters, but I haven't set these up yet due to plants. <Undergravels don't work so well with plants.>
sump - 110 liter with 3 filter towers and 5 gallons filter media (not set up  yet) Not sure what the water flow rate should be or the number and kind of pumps to utilize.  I'm considering about 2,000 gph total volume which is just under a water turnover of 10 times. I have had Arowanas and various friends in the 105 gallon tank with this setup before and it has worked fine for years.  However, there are obvious maintenance problems. The fish run into the powerheads knocking them around
which requires constant monitoring.  It takes a LOT of water changing because of the heavy fish load, roughly 50% every 5 days.  This isn't good for the fish or for my time constraints.  Thus, if the setup I've outlined would work to help resolve some of these issues that would be great.  Does the team there think this makes any sense to try? <Definitely, and the wet/dry will help with your heavy load as well.  Good luck Roy and let me know which way you decide to go.>
Thanks,
Roy Wiseman