Water feature advice  6/10/07
Hello crew! After coming across your site I have become an avid reader of your advice to queries raised by other users and on Bob Fenner's articles.
I am an Englishman living in Mallorca (a small island in the Med approximately 150 miles East of Barcelona). I have a brand new water  feature
>in my garden, which as a result of a neighbour's wall collapsing and having had to be rebuilt as an integral part of the structural retaining solution, is now considerably larger than was ever originally envisaged or intended.
>This was intended to be an ornamental fountain that predominantly was for creating the sound of falling water whilst also being aesthetically pleasing.
>In its revised much larger incarnation the opportunity has arisen to also use this feature to keep freshwater fish and in the process of researching these options I came across your site.
>Whilst a little unusual relative to most questions raised on your site I still hope that you may be able to help to me as I do not so much have many specific
>questions rather more a desire for your professional overview on certain issues that will help me keep fish.
<Okay>
>Having read many of Bob Fenner's articles about pond design it is clear to me that I will have to try and make the best of a bad lot as many things could have been done differently if this had been intended as an  aquarium from the outset.
<A common resound...>
>I enclose some photos in jpeg format in 72 dpi to provide an overview of this feature.
<Didn't make it...>
>The technical specifications are as follows:
>The pond at the bottom of the waterfall holds approximately 170 us gallons and so is I hope large enough to not encounter the instability problems encountered by ponds less than 100 gallons. (with hindsight would have made it bigger)
<Yes>
>The dimensions approximately are: (Dimensions of the body of water - the structure itself is larger)
>Length 1.28 m (4.2 ft)
>Width 0.75 m (2.46 ft)
>Depth 0.68 m (2.23 ft)
>The fountain has a fall of 1m (approx 3ft) and the water is pumped from the reservoir (pond) at the base in to a bowl (see photo) and this in turn spills over and falls in to the reservoir.
<Even discounting wind... there will be some splash, spray here. A trip/fall hazard>
>The pump (I now know unfortunately) is the submerged type, and shifts 1.5 litres per 15 seconds and so re-circulates the whole reservoir every two hours. Due to the first bowl which creates a mini waterfall and then the main waterfall with its 1m drop I think the water is well aerated.
>The pump is not located on the bottom but half way down the reservoir on a stone shelf, the pond itself is lined with stone and concrete. So hopefully there will be no problems pumping stale foul water off the bottom of the pond.
What I would like your expert opinion on is of all the filtration mechanisms available WHICH would you implement to filter this pond if it were yours?
<Is this to be a biological system?>
>It has taken a long time to get to this stage so I really don't want to implement a solution that will entail reconstructing the fountain again unless absolutely essential! Having read a lot on your site I was wondering whether I could create a sort of filter in the fountain bowl if I half filled it with two different grades of pebbles with some fine stainless steel mesh between the layers?)
<Will serve as something of an intake strainer only... useful for keeping material out of the pump mechanism>
Obviously back washing would be impossible and this would have to be done manually.
<Yes...>
>I would also be interested in your opinion of what my fish options are - our climate is a hot summer up to a maximum of 110F but probably averaging mid 90's(f) in summer with a mild winter never below circa 41f coldest and usually warmer. Also how many fish would be sensible for maintaining this as a balanced pond
<... Trouble in this small volume... Are you adverse to "switching out" the livestock for cooler/hotter seasons?>
>I do however want the water to remain crystal clear
<Oh! You will need to do a bit of retrofitting then... likely remoting physical filtration (UV, or perhaps a purposeful ozonizer), along with biological filtration, likely mechanical...>
and intend to put water plants into the pond in accordance with the recommendations on your site. Any advice or plant recommendations very welcome)
<Do take a look/see re what you have available there... No sense making a "wish list" for species you can't get your hands on>
>I have also taken on board the comments about changing water frequently. It is too late to put in a sump drain but I was wondering if I bought a separate electric hand pump if I could pump foul water off the bottom straight out of the pond and then refill it?
<Good idea... likely can pump the water regularly onto surrounding landscape...>
>On other sites I have also seen pond vacuum cleaners advertised for cleaning the bottom surfaces - in your experience (if any) are these any good?
<Most are marginally functional>
>The pond will not suffer from surface water run off as it is effectively isolated and can be filled by tap or well water.
>Any comments you may have would be very useful but from what I have read the biggest obstacle to which I require the most effective retrospective solution, is the filtration question.
>Hoping that you can help,
>Yours sincerely
>TCH
<Please, in future, send mail sans carats/hard returns. Bob Fenner>

Fishy <I'll say!>... Over bio-loaded pond... stop-gap measures   4/19/07
Dear Bob & crew
<Big D>
Last night, for no apparent reason, my white tip reef shark bit the fluke of my bottlenose dolphin
I bet you wish you had a nickel from every time you've heard THAT, right?
(ahem - just kidding)
<Heeeee!>
Finally, my son's marine aquarium is stable, thanks in great part to your wonderful site and expert advice.
Things are nice and quiet.
Yep.  You guessed it.
Too quiet.
Nature abhors me having a nice, relaxing day.
<And a vacuum!>
So a woman I know called and told me she just bought a house with a Koi pond and asked if I could come take a look.   So I get there and it's a nice house and a nice pond.   There are six 22+ inch Koi and two 8 inch Koi in a 650 gallon pond with a 800 GPH submersible pump emptying into a 30 gallon filter.
<Yikes... too much life, too little water, filter...>
  OK, it was a nice pond when there were 8 fingerlings in it.   So I whip out my test kit and get exactly what I expected:  1.0+ Ammonia, 5.0 Nitrite & 8.1 PH.    So I ask her:  Are you sure they're not dead and it's just the current blowing them around?
<Good one>
Well, no I didn't ask exactly that ...  but now I'm under more stress than the Koi.
Changing close to 650 gallons of water over 36 hours improved things dramatically, but I swear, even as I'm doing this ... a couple of the Koi would nose to me, head almost out of water and then turn and shoot poop out as if to say "we've evolved, we LIKE ammonia!"
<Doubtful>
Anyway ... a bigger pond and less fish is the answer and we're working the logistics on that ... but in the near term, what would you think about 4 litres each of Purigen and Phos-Guard in the filter as an artificial assistant while I dig the other hole, pour the other cement and beg the homeowner for the funds to do all this?
<This and more or less constant water changing, very limited feeding... Bob Fenner>

Pond Filtration  12/13/05
Robert,
<Sorry for the late reply... have been away>
I read several of you online articles regarding pond filtration (etc.). I'm glad you are lending a helping had to the many pond keepers who suffer the ubiquitous "pea soup" syndrome.
<Glad to share>
I’ll come quickly to my point. In the articles I wrote for FAMA, I outlined a very simple and natural method for keeping virtually any pond crystal clear and “algae free”. Since 1996, I have built ponds in Tallahassee FL and
at my current residence in Kaneohe Hawaii. (some Florida pictures here:
http://www.davehanby.com/dsh_old/tallahassee_treefort_page.htm). Despite going from ‘sunny’ to ‘sunnier’, each pond that I constructed has always had crystal clear water with no algae problem what-so-ever.
<Impressive!>
The only mechanical device that I have ever used is a water pump which moves the water from the pond up to a “swamp filter”. The pond at my current residence is shallow, has no shade and receives year-round direct tropical sunlight.  The pond is fully stocked with several dozen carp species as well as an abundance of guppies and toad tadpoles. Despite these difficult conditions, the pond has always been crystal clear. I had the same results in Florida and in Connecticut. Each time, the method of success was simply a “swamp filter” equal in size to the display pond.
<These do work>
In that I imagine that you are a pond keeper, I invite you to try a swamp filter and see how it works for you.
<Have used and built many of these over the years>
The simple guidelines are to dig a “second pond” on level or above your display pond. Once dug and lined,
connect the two with a spillway to make sure the water flows correctly. I use a 40 watt “pond” pump
<Wow, low electrical consumption>
on my current system but have used all manner of pumps, powerheads and sump-pumps in the past. Once the water level has been established, turn off the pump and put the excavated dirt back in the new pond (if you soil is predominantly clay, you might use sand for the top 6”).
The water level in the “swamp” should be about 1” across the entire surface.
You can plant the swamp with any water plant (which may quickly outgrow the space). Wait a few days for things to settle and then start the pump (which should be run 24/7 from that point on). It will take a few weeks for the water to “settle” (muddy until then). After two - three months, you should have perfectly clear water and no more algae problems.
I hope you may have success with this method.
Aloha,
David Hanby
<Thank you for your input David. You might want to re-sell your pond articles to our on-line zine... Bob Fenner>

Pond biofilters  9/8/05
Hello Bob,
Am interested in building a bio filter per your spec.s as shown on website.
Question - what is down side when electrical outage stops pump? Does not the 'bad bacteria' enter the fish pond when the power comes back on?
Thanx in advance
Frank P.   
<Can indeed be trouble... if much "gunk" is accumulated, goes anaerobic... regular backwashing, and discharging water over a falls or stream generally discounts any such possible disadvantage... though one could leave out a back-check valve or arrange a perpetual siphon... to drain the filter basin in the event of such a pump/ing failure. Bob Fenner>

DIY pond filter 8/28/05
Hi,
I am very new to pond and koi keeping. I have been doing some research on building my own filter system. Currently I have a very small pond 260 gallons and heavy stocked. I am currently using the Tetra PF3 which I
thought was well large enough. I found out that I am running the water through it too fast and causing my Ph to be low and the nitrate to be high.
<Ahh, common... good that you have discovered this... in such a small volume, highly stocked... can be real trouble if maintenance lapses>
I have turned  back the water flow as of today and I'll see if this helps. I do have interest in the 60 gallon drum. I would like to know what pump and size that you recommend.
<There are "rules of thumb" re the amount of actual flow per square foot, cubic foot of filter media... best to get a bit too-large pump, divert excess flow around the filter (not through)... save up for your new pond...>
Good news... I am going to enlarge my pond this winter to about 1200 gallons   If I could go bigger I would, I have limited space and I am using every square inch that I can find.
<Still... a near five time increase in volume!>
Only if I had more room. The new pond is going to be in the corner of the patio in a somewhat L curve shape, it will be about 48" tall and I am going to make it like a bar that you can sit and watch the beautiful koi while eating, etc.
<Very nice>
I can use all the information that you can give me and I thank you for the information that I have already gotten.
Thanks again,
Bobbie
<Please take a (re)read through our Pond Subweb: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/PondSubWebIndex/Pond%20Sub%20Web.htm
The articles and FAQs files on construction, filtration... and maintenance will help you guide yourself.
Bob Fenner>
 

Freshwater Protein Skimming (ponds) 7/9/05
Bob,
<Joe>
Crazy guy here.
<Mmm, not so crazy... You have good ideas, well-worded questions...>
Of late, a variety of places on the web have begun selling freshwater
protein skimmers for ponds. From reading on various web boards, it would
appear that these don't work very well.
<Correct... physical properties of water, undesirable molecules>
It seems that if the pond is quite
dirty, the skimmer pulls out maybe a cup of skimmate, and then sort of shuts
down. The few that do use them, seem to use them once in a while, on timers
and the like.
Is this your impression of the reality of freshwater protein skimming today?
<Yes>
Pursuant to that:
If you were going to conduct a scientifically controlled experiment in
protein skimming in a 45 gallon freshwater source, what would you put in
the freshwater that one could exactly repeat time and time again for each
experiment?
<Likely a "protein mix" like those made for human consumption...>
I've thought of a whey concentrate (almost pure protein), but
don't have any idea if that would be a good test... Know of anything that
would be representative, and is fairly cheap?
We should hang out and get a beer some time soon,
<Now other ideas are coming to mind... Bob Fenner>
Joe Kraska

Construction of Biological Filters for Ponds
Do you have any specific instructions or diagrams on how to construct a biological filter for a pond?  Do you construct biological filters?
<No longer construct anything. What we have re is posted on WWM. Bob Fenner>

Duck Pond
Hello I didn't find anything related to this question. I have a duck /
goose pond approximately 2000 gallons, I have two filters hooked up one a
regular sand filter for an in ground swimming pool ( I filled it with pea
gravel ) and connected to this is a modern media filter ( in ground pool
also ). I can't and really want to figure out a way to keep it
relatively clean. I have not used or know of any chemicals available for
use and or and other grander filter system. I do have a small zoo and
good looking enclosures is a must for me. There are no fish in the pond
and it house about 20 different ducks. I have the filters set up as a
waterfall at the export side of the filters.
THANKS
BOB PILZ
<There are actual "formulae" for figuring how many water fowl one can/should have per acres and acre-feet of ponds, lakes... a two k gallon system is just going to be a real mess, no matter how much filtration you can affix to it. I encourage you (if at all possible) to instead devise a system of flushing the basin with new water, either continuously or in a pulsed fashion... draining it from a/the bottom... about all the volume... daily. Bob Fenner, who knows what a stinky mess these birds make>

Koi pond no filter?
Bob hello.
Just found your site recently and I'm glad I did.
I have an established cement and sealed (6 yr.) Outdoor N. California
Koi pond (9 koi all about 13-18") approx. 2500 gallons, waterfall, 3' to
18" deep with gravel bottom and a planted island with hyacinth lilies
etc. I am running a large pool sand filter with pea gravel for
biological on a timer for 9 hours a day
<Yikes.... can be trouble during warmer weather, accumulated gunk... with leaving this media w/o circulation...>
and a Hayward paper filter for
mechanical which I run about a week on and a week off just to clear the
water when needed. No UV. The pool/pea filter is finally getting clogged
a bit and I have to backwash it more frequently than I'd like.
<Yes... Very common... as am sure you know now>
My
question is can I get rid of the pool filter completely now that
everything is established and just run through the paper filter when needed?
<Mmm, no... will clog VERY frequently... quite frustrating... switching out cartridges, paying high electrical bills for diminished flows...>
I don't think the bio filter is doing much anyway as it is on only 9
hours a day and the pond with rock/plants is probably now the real bio
filter.
<Could be>
Just as my reef tank no longer uses bio balls and relies on the
live rock for bio filtration.
The pond is clear and the koi are all healthy and happy.
Thoughts?
Thanks Gregg
<For the size system, number/biomass of fish... you may "get away" with what you propose, but I strongly encourage you to think about all this a bit more... and to resolve to at least "just" switch out the pea gravel (yes, a job) from the pool filter (for... bio balls if you still have them!) something with a bit of surface area... doesn't have to fill the tank... or better by far, to read over our Pond subweb re biological pond filtration, and incorporate a non-pressurized (open) bio filter... with some mechanical capacity to save your sanity and pocketbook from the hassles, costs of the current cartridge... Koi do require clean, oxygenated water... continuously... If you should switch these out for "dirtier" fishes or no fish at all, the situation would/will be different. Bob Fenner>

Re: koi pond no filter?
Thanks Bob.
I searched for open bio pond filter and didn't see it.
<Please see the pond articles and FAQs files here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/PondSubWebIndex/Pond%20Sub%20Web.htm
... "filters for biological ponds...>
Can my
pressurized filter be switched to an open filter?
<No>
Or... this pond in
question has a separate pond (higher elevation) of about 300 gallons
that spills in to the main pond. What about turning this 300 gallon into
a bio  filter?
<Can be done>
If I filled it with rock and planted heavily?
<Yes>
Or if I
filled it with bio media? There has to be a way to eliminate the sand
filter and run naturally I would think. Again it is clear and healthy as
it is now (6 years old) and that's running the sand filter only 9 hours
a day.
Thoughts?
Thanks Gregg
<Many. Bob Fenner>

Re: koi pond no filter?
One final follow up question please.
I am taking your advice and using the upper pool to create a bio filter
for the main pond and getting rid of the pool sand filter. I'll be
dividing the upper pool in half with bricks to create an area like the
La Jolla guy did (rock and bio balls on top of a mesh screen)
Question: do I need to seal the bricks and mortar to stop lime leeching?
<Mmm, probably not. Just use "plastic" cement in your mortar mix, rinse, let it go covered over for a day with tapwater, drain... or add a bit of acid to the water (not the lower basin of course) during the day to leach the alkalinity...>
this will be a small wall maybe 2ft high by 3ft across. If I use "old"
bricks will they be lime free enough? If I have to seal what should I use?
Thanks again.
Gregg
<No sealer needed. Bob Fenner>

Pond filter
Hey guys thanks for all your help on my saltwater questions. I am having a couple beers and thought I would pick your brains a little. I am now changing gears and started my first pond in the back yard. It is only about 200 gallons of freshwater. I think it is too small already but will wait until next year to expand.
<Good and lucky that you have this as a possibility>
I have read through the filtration section of your site and decided on building my own filter. I would like to use a 16 gal Rubbermaid container. I would like to run the water through the top lid of the Rubbermaid and first through a filter pad. My question is what type of substrates do you recommend next? The articles I read say to use 3/4'' rock with 3\8'' pea size on top. I have a lot of crushed coral from an old saltwater tank would that work for the top layer?
<Mmm, not a good idea likely in this setting... too alkaline.>
Is there better types of rock to use for the top and bottom? Or would it be better to make baffles and have 2 separate sections?
<This is such a small filter for such a small volume of pond water that I would go with just the smaller (pea, nominal 1/4" diameter) "aquarium gravel" (the natural crushed chondritic granite variety) under a layer or two of "batting material" (Dacron/polyester from a yardage store... you can cut to size with scissors)... and if possible, I would make this "reverse flow", pumping the water in/under the gravel and have it overflow over the top of the Dacron... with thru-hull fittings perforating the Rubbermaid container...>
My pump will probably be pumping around 1000 GPH. It is submersible but it is an extra I have around the house. Is this too much flow for this filter?
<No... about right>
How deep should each layer be with this water flow?
<For regular or reverse-flow leave an "empty space" on the bottom, perhaps using a piece of cut "egg-crate/louver" supported by PVC pipe, fittings, cover this with a layer of plastic screen door material (you can get all this at a Home Depot, Lowe's or such), several inches of the pea gravel, then the batting material, leaving a handful of inches at the top for accumulation of water out to the (good-sized, at least 1 1/2", better 2 " ID thru-hull overflow>
If this is too much flow for the filter should I split the flow and have some return directly to the pond? My plan is to have 3 Koi and a shubunkin and a few plants. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
<Good idea to plan in a "tee" diverter with a valve on the discharge side of the tee going back to the pond to provide circulation and control over flow to the filter>
One more question: Is using a little salt in the water good for these fish. A guy I work with said his neighbor has a pond that is 2000 gallons of saltwater and he breeds Koi in it. I assume he means it has a little salt in the water not a marine tank.
Thank you!!
Walt
<Koi and goldfish can tolerate a good deal of sea salt concentration... not a good idea to keep them in such all the time though... a little salt is better. Bob Fenner>

Knee Deep In Sand? Or, Just a Few Inches Deep?
Hi all:
<Hi there! Scott F. here today!>
Please can you tell me if it is worth putting sand in the bottom of my weirs to encourage bacteria to grow, if so what thickness of sand do you recommend both weirs are 4inches by 4 inches .
Regards, Ian Marvell
<Well, Ian, beneficial bacteria will grow on all types of surfaces, including the weirs themselves! A substrate like sand offers a lot of surface area for them to colonize on, of course, and bacteria can grow on even a very shallow layer of sand. For maximum denitrification capabilities, I'd go with a depth of 3 inches or more. Hope this helps! Regards, Scott F.>

New Pond
Hey crew!
<Hey! Gage here this evening.>
I just got a pond from my Uncle that is roughly 175 gallons. It is a pre-made plastic frame. Couple questions:
Do i need any additional liner?
<Nope, the performed plastic pond should be fine by itself.>
Am i correct in thinking that in the hole i should fill it with sand to let the pond settle?
<It is a good idea, and watch out for any sharp rocks in the hole.>
And finally, can you suggest a good filter, because the one i have is really old and filthy?
<Old and filthy, that's how I felt on my birthday.  I have not shopped for a pond filter in a while, you have a couple of choices, you can get the kind that has the media/bio balls and all that in a container that drops into the pond, with a pump, and usually fountain making do-wacky (ok ok, its late, it may have another name besides do-wacky).  The type of filtration I prefer would consist of a pump in the pond pumping out to a container (large rubber maid?) filled with media, then returning to the pond.  Check out these links for more info
http://wetwebmedia.com/PondSubWebIndex/inpdfilters.htm
http://wetwebmedia.com/PondSubWebIndex/biopdfilters.htm
http://wetwebmedia.com/PondSubWebIndex/pdfiltmedia.htm  >
Thanks a ton if you answer any of these. I normally read about my dream fish, the black-tip reef shark, instead of ponds.
<Best to read about the black tips and keep a pond IMO.  Heck, move the pond indoors and/or heat it and fill it with cichlids, you would be the coolest person on the block. Best of Luck, Gage>
(this will be a freshwater, outdoor pond.)
Thanks a ton
Ryan  

Bird poop in Small Goldfish Pond II - 8/15/03
Thank you for answering Anthony. I will not assume it is bird droppings. The pond's life is almost 8 months. There is a small pump and sponge filter and I do water changes every couple of months. I have two goldfish, water lily and lots of water lettuce, and oxygenating plants. Am I on the right track. Marty
<the sponge filter may be too small, and the water change schedule is very modest. Some pond keepers try to do at least 10% weekly. 25% monthly at least. Especially during warm weather. Best regards, Anthony>

Filtration/Pumps
Hi:
We are setting up three small separate ponds in rubber maid type containers. One is about 25 gal, one is 110 gal, the other is 40gals. We want the 25 gal to flow into the 110, and the 110 to flow into the 40. We plan to have a few fish in each.
Do we need a separate filter for each pond?
<Mmm, no. You can set all up in just one container (likely the last so the same pump can be used for recirculation>
Can we use just one filter and pump to recirculate?
<Oh, yes>
What do you suggest?
<There are about all possibilities covered on our Pond sub-web... maybe you can get by with a foam cartridge intake filter (as by Rena or Tetra) if the system is "balanced" and out of much direct sunlight>
The lowest pond is about 2 feet below the top one and about 16 feet distance, with the other pond in between. Thanks for the help. Your web site is great!
<Thank you for your kind words. Bob Fenner>

Re: water fall/filter
Hi Bob
My name is Andrew Girard. I met David Korhonen at the Landscapes Ontario
trade show. He had a water fall that doubled as a filter, I was
wondering where I could purchase such an item. I am new to the pond
world. I have a small pond with no filtration system. David told me that
the water fall filter would be the best for the type of pond I have, I
just can't remember the type and name of the filter. If you could help
me I would appreciate it very much.
Thanks
Andrew
<Mmm, well there are a few companies (like Pondscapes) that make or re-sell such fiberglass and resin fall/filter units. I encourage you to consider other possibilities though (if you have the space), placing a "large as possible" filter elsewhere in your filter flow-path... much easier to service than "fall-types". Bob Fenner>

Biological filters... for ponds
Bob,
Sorry to bother you. I got your address from the Wet Web site. I am new to the pond game and need some direction. I have a 60 gallon plastic pond, 15 paradise fish
<Macropodus opercularis, some of my faves.>
, two water lilies, four irises and a small batch of elodea. There is also a pleicotomous (sic) <Plecostomus> and some snails. I am interested in building my own biological filter and would like to know the best place to look for plans or specifics. Is there a book you recommend as well? Also the fish colony is nearly 15 years old and this is their third transplant. I am a capable plumber but I have a very low budget. I am thinking of using a square plastic bucket apprx. 4 gallons (it used to hold cat litter) for my filter container.
thank you very much for your time,
Curtis Whatley
Mission, Texas >>
<Do take a look back on our WWM site: Home Page for a good rundown on how to build your own filter... you have a good start being a plumber (my dad was one as well), and your container should work as a structure.
Bob Fenner, who does have a water gardening book done, but it's not in print, yet...>