FAQs on Anemone Health
FAQs on Anemone Disease: Anemone
Disease 1, Anemone
Disease 2, Anemone Disease 3,
Anemone Disease 4, Anemone Disease 5, Anemone Disease 6, Anemone Disease 7, Anemone Health 8, Anemone Health 9, Anemone Disease 10, Anemone Disease 11, Anemone Disease 12, Anemone Disease , &
FAQs on Anemone Disease by Category:
Pathogenic (Infectious, Parasitic, Viral)
FAQs on Anemone Disease by Genus, Species: Condylactis
Disease, Sebae Disease,
LTA Disease, Magnificent Anemone Disease, BTA Disease, Carpet Anemone Disease, TWA Anemone Disease, Sebae Disease,
Related Articles: Anemones,
Bubble Tip Anemones, LTAs,
Cnidarians, Dyed Anemones,
Cnidarian Disease, Anemones,
Anemones 2, LTAs, Caribbean
Anemones, Condylactis, Aiptasia
Anemones, Anemones and
Feeding, Anemone Systems,
New Print and
eBook on Amazon:
Doing what it takes to keep Anemones healthy long-term
by Robert (Bob) Fenner
I need your expertise; Heteractis magnifica
Hello team! I have been a frequent visitor of your site for years and truly
enjoy your articles and books. I have had reef aquariums off and on well
over 10 years. I’m fascinated by the clown fish and anemone relationship,
and I have successful kept bubble tips anemone for years and have ventured
into the infamous Magnificent Sea Anemone. I know they don’t ship well and
the one I received had to be treated, which I believe I have done
successfully. My questions are:
1. How will I know if and when the animal has settled? (It hasn’t moved
since it was placed in the tank where it receives average par of 380 -400
with peaks of 450. ( 240 gallon display tank lit by 4 Orphek Alantik V4 gen
2 and two Kessil A360X)
<Not moving is a good sign for this and other anemone species; and the
clownfish settling in (not avoiding) the host>
2. It has lost a little of its color since its Cipro treatment, how long
does it take to get that back? (Pix attached)
<Hopefully within a few weeks... I might (over)dose your supplementing of
iodide/ate... with testing.>
3. Should I feed it at this time? I know when I have fed it in the past its
tentacles deflate for a few hours? Not sure if this is normal or a bad sign?
(In contrast my bubble tip anemones appear to get bigger after feeding)
<Yes; I would feed two, three times per week... "test" some food and if it
is sticking, go forward with more>
4. Finally the mag has been in my tank since 03/17/2020. I receive it on
03/7, it started treatment on 03/08 (Went through cycles of deflating and
inflating) and back in the aquarium 03/17 (No longer does it deflate or
flatten out, however it does appear to shrink a little at night?)
<Yes; this is natural. Not to worry>
Thanks for your time, I look forward to your response.
> of aquarium mag is on the right
<Thank you for sharing. Bob Fenner>
Rock Flower Anemone, Phymanthus/Epicystis crucifer hlth.
I purchased a RFA (the orange one in pics) about 10 days ago, and I noticed it
wasn’t sticky or eating like my established one. Upon further inspection I saw
it’s foot was pinkish with blotchy red, covered with lots of mucous, and
appeared to have a small tear. Even worse, some of his mesenterial filaments
seem to be protruding from the bottom. ��
<Ah yes; a torn pedal disc; tearing at the base; a common issue w/ especially
wild-collected, but includes carelessly extracted captive specimens.>
I was surprised he look so well on his top part especially since I already had
him for 9 days at that point! I know that RFAs notoriously die with any foot
complications, despite iodine dips, revive baths, etc... Again that’s why I was
surprised he even lasted this long.
<Mmm; well... the tearing likely occurred ahead of your acquisition. A note re
"cold" vs. "warm" blooded animals; often such damage, loss of health is a
while... days, weeks in showing up, compared with mammals, birds....>
Anyway, I didn’t want to just give up, and I also did not want to risk trying
methods that have not yielded any solid results, so I am experimenting with
Methylene blue. It has been highly effective as a prophylactic bath for my fish
and acclaimed as being so safe it could be used even for inverts, so I figured
I’d try to give my RFA daily baths.
<Sounds good. As you state, well-worth a try, trialing>
He certainly doesn’t seem to react very negatively to the baths, besides his
mouth opening a little upon reentry into the display. I know he must absorb some
Methylene blue so I only dip him in a cup of display water with only 2 drops, so
hopefully anything expelled into tank isn’t very significant—should I run a
Polyfilter while this is going on?
<I'd run the PolyFilter after administering, every few days... for several
hours, then remove it and replenish the Methylene Blue; as the resins in this
fine product will remove the Methylene Blue>
He’s usually in the bath 5 minutes. I’m on my third day of treatment.
Today his foot was significantly less mucous covered and the degeneration of the
foot seems to have at least halted, but it is still pink and I can still see
maybe a pencil eraser sized bit of mesenterial filaments—an improvement although
still not in the clear. I do the “highly scientific” sniff test to help make
sure he’s hanging in there too, as I know it’s a bit early to even make a
<Okay; appears alive to me>
Well, I wanted to share in case this proves to be successful. I wasn’t sure if
you had any insight in using Methylene blue for RFAs, if I should treat more, or
if my efforts may be futile...?
<I do not know; but have read about, used literally gallons of Methylene Blue
over decades of time in the trade. Is a very safe, and quite effective general
anti- and fungi-cide, bacterio-cide, -static... Is a useful "converter of
hemoglobin", even injected into humans at times/places. Look it up.>
It’s a 28g nano, nitrates and phos undetectable (working on raising that), dkh
9.3, cal 415, Mag 1350, temp avg 82, random turbulent flow from my gyre, and spg
1.025. Tank has no chem filtrants but does have a Aquamaxx hob 1.5.
<Thank you for sharing. Please do keep us informed of your further work,
I'd keep separated
Anemone Question for Bob 2/8/18
Hope all is well in your world. One of my large anemones exhibited some odd
behavior...thought you may have some ideas on it. Please see attached pictures.
Thanks so much...Nish
<Yeah; have seen this sort of expression on occasion; and heard/read various
theories advanced as cause/s. I urge the usual checking re water quality issues,
perhaps a double/triple dosing (one time) of iodide, the addition of a few grams
of simple sugar (glucose best) and nothing else. In most all cases this
"bubbliness" solves itself in days to a couple weeks.
Attn, Bob... Report: Dyed "Sherman Rose" BTA!
Hey ya'll, Sean Morris, down here at Acadian Mariculture (what I am now calling
my marine breeding operation, hehe)...I was trying to make my true perc
broodstock happy because my last two clutches weren't... well.. alive
for long...and so my LFS who I do a LOT of business with, had these beautiful
"Sherman rose anemones" ... purple disk, dark brown base, pink tentacles no
green showing at all. I recently recovered a bleached gbta from
there, so my water quality isn't a problem... again... I breed true percs.So my
wife bought one... and it hasn't been doing well (thought it was due to quick
acclimation)... so I went and bought another... did a 3 hour acclimation...
brought it home in an ice chest...bought two gbtas with it...-I want my mama
percula to imprint on rose and regular so the babies will take to both. at least
that was my plan-Well... today, after waking up to the three new anemones
looking perfectly happy... ... this first Sherman is still showing the same
symptoms:-tentacles sticking together, sticking to algae, bacteria.-overly
frequent defecation of body-colored bits.-enarging at night with mouth
open-color fading, turning white in some spots, brown in others-as sensitive to
hands in the tank as a ritteri(whereas most btas, you can touch and they don't
care, this one shrivels when I pull have a finger in without vinegar soaking,
and even then, its only a matter of time)-and now, today... a green tentacle.
just the one?
<Mmm; they can/do change color/s at times>
A single green nub, surrounded by pink and purple... cant really see it well in
the photo, but I tried. one green tentacle...for now...but the bleached areas
seem to be showing a little green, as well.i will more closely document the
progress of the other, formerly identical, specimen, and post progress on my
YouTube channel, The Lost Begotten. Feel free to check it out ;)-also filming an
ultimate anemone guide series, so you may find that helpful.
<Oh yes; my pitch/presentation this year (August) at MACNA is titled Captive
Anemone Use. Do make it known when and where this is posted>
In addition to my 30yrs exp, this past weeks panic has made me update my
research-base, and I feel like I've got some complete info that needs sharing.
For now, I had to let you all know about this, apparently, dyed RBTA...
makes me wonder if Sherman's are all dyed. It would be sad, but not
surprising, if con-artistry had become so elaborate.
<I don't know re Sherman... some folks postings on the Net speculate they might
Welcome to Trumpland.Thanks again for all your helpful info. Peace-Sean Morris
(Baton Rouge, La)
<Thank you for sharing. Bob Fenner>
Rock flower nems
Hey guys how has it been.
<Fine Tom; thanks>
Have a quick one about some rock flower nems that we have been getting and
shipping in. We are having a large number melting the second or third day in.
Cal 440, Mag 1350, alk 8 no3 5. They seem to be expelling a large
amount of why looks like green brown stringy material almost like a small hay.
They are still solid feeling when introduced to the system.
<Alive up till then likely>
Could they have an issue with the substrate ?
<Doubtful... something/s else. Are they shipped one to the bag? Are their
pedicles intact; i.e., not torn?>
We acclimate them with :30 float and :30 drip.
<I'd be dosing (over; like three plus times) with iodide-ate and lowering the
spg of the acclim. water a thousandth or two>
Have kicked around putting them in a bare bottom and doing water changes ever
hour till they quit expelling that material.
What chemicals can be used to help with these issues
<As above... plus poss. a simple/hexose sugar... as detailed by Hans Hass
decades back and myself in recent ones>
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Re: Rock flower nems
<Can't read this>
Re: Rock flower nems
Sorry about that
The nems all looked in tack in the bags and were shipped 5 per med sized bag.
<Mmm; I'd only ship one per... ALWAYS>
Just found the writing on the simple sugar treatment
What type is sugar works
Simple cheap white ?
<Glucose is best... look for this at the supermarket for folks that do canning.
Re: Rock flower nems
This is that material I was trying to explain
<Bizarre Tom... looks like some sort of polypoid life, but what? Do you have
other images; showing tentacles, mouths? Bob Fenner>
Re: Rock flower nems
<These Phymanthus crucifer are looking MUCH better. I would keep running
chemical filtrants (PolyFilter and ChemiPure) at double, and checking ORP as THE
indicator of water quality. Bob Fenner>
Re: Rock flower nems
sorry but have no ChemiPure but have gfo
<Remove the Ferrous. Chemoautotrophs NEED HPO4>
and carbon. also have a good size skimmer running currently and have been doing
a 25% water change daily just to keep it clean and the " stuff" cleared off any
that are still ejecting it. should i still keep up with the simple sugar and
EMERGENCY: Ritteri Anemone
I went and bought a Ritteri Anemone recently.
<Hope you studied....>
I put it in the tank, and it immediately adjusted to the new
No problems at all. It eventually adhered itself to the glass of the
That's when I noticed that the foot was damaged
<Very common problem leading to death>
and it's insides were showing. That white stringy stuff?
<Mesenterial this and that>
Anyway, it kept getting worse, and the half of the anemone was deflated.
Now, as I am getting home from school, I notice that it is no longer on
the glass, but on the sand in a pile. Not inflated at all now. I triple
tested my water, and it all looks fine.
<Not for long>
Everything else in the tank is thriving. I don't think the anemone is
going to make it,
and I am going to pull it out as soon as it starts to smell and decay.
<I'd do that now>
If you have any suggestions on what to do with the anemone, please let
me know ASAP. I need to know how to proceed. Photo is attached.
<The aforementioned reading re the species on WWM:
and the linked files above; or my book (see Amazon) on Anemones and
their use in aquariums. Bob Fenner>
question regarding bubble tip anemone
I am writing in order to see if I could get some guidance/help regarding mi
bubble tip anemone.
I currently have a Boyu TL550, 130 lt, saltwater aquarium.
I placed my E. quadricolor 3.5 months ago, and for the first 2 months she did
great (I am attaching a picture from when she looked healthy).
Since 3-4 weeks ago, the anemone has progressively lost her
''bubbliness'', and the tentacles have ''shriveled'' and look flaccid and
''thin''. The colour has also changed; from a bright orange, to a
darker orange-brown and some sectors even look greenish. 1-2 weeks ago the
anemone decided to close (similar as when lights are off), and has decided to
stay like this for days. Today, she opened, but after 2 days of being closed. I
Ocellaris clownfish, the female resided in the anemone, the male resided in
<Aye ya... here's some trouble>
Now they have both moved to the Euphyllia, however the female goes back to the
anemone any time she exposes her tentacles.
I have never fed the anemone, except for 2 weeks ago (she was
already looking shady) with a mix of brine shrimp and saltwater and squirted it;
there was no change.
<Needs to be fed two, three times a week>
I have checked my parameters, temp is 24-25 C, pH 7.9-8.1, density
(they are pretty steady). I recently got more parameters, and the only parameter
that was not right was nitrate (20 ppm). Nitrite, ammonia, phosphate, calcium,
dKH were ok.
<? Meaningless w/o actual data, numbers>
The rest of the aquarium looks fine (other residents are Rhodactis, Kenya tree,
Parazoanthus gracilis, 2 Ocellaris, Sixline wrasse yellow watchman goby,
Salarias fasciatus, 3 hermit crabs, 3 snails, 1 Lysmata amboinensis).
If you could guide me in this issue I would be most appreciative.
<Well; as stated above; the Euphyllia is winning here, the Entacmaea
losing (allopathically); this animal is starved, and the environment? Did you
review BTA Health on WWM? All this is gone over and over... As are
suggestions for improving the situation... moving the Caryophylliid or
Actinarian (they need to be in sep. systems); foods/feeding... and
improving the animal's world. Bob Fenner>
Thank you very much!
Help with Anemone and Algae. Moved sm. sys., cascade event
<Eight megs... is there a full moon? Why are folks sending such huge
Hi there. I need help...About 1.5 months ago I moved to from San
Francisco to Monterey for a job, and moved my 24 gallon reef tank for
the second time in 2 years. My tank has been established since Oct.
2013, and has been thriving up until this move.
During move I followed the same protocols I used when moving two years
ago (which was successful), which were the following: Placed biggest
piece of live rock in bucket with airstone and heater along with all
non-coral animals. Placed all other live rock and corals in a Styrofoam
cooler in water. Emptied tank nearly all of the way, leaving 1/4" of
water above the live-sand. I was able to plug heater and airstone into
electricity with adapter in my truck. Drive 2 hrs, set up tank, all
seemed fine until 2 weeks later...
Fast forward two weeks and I started to get brown slimy/hairy
algae on sand, rocks, back walls etc.
<I see this... likely a release of nutrient/s... loss of RedOx/ORP...
alkaline reserve in your substrate>
I would siphon out as much as I could during water changes, revealing
nice white sand under the brown scum, but it
comes back after a few days. At the time of my move I also switched to
Reef Crystals from Instant Ocean for salt mix, and also purchased an
under-sink RO system. Where it got weird is when my normally super-happy
bubble tip anemone spawned, probably 1 month into the move. A big blob
of eggs were released from her (I guess it is a she) mouth. I netted as
many of them as I could. Ever since that spawn-night, the anemone has
been small, deflated and wandering. It slides from one spot to another
night after night, and never inflates to its previous 8-10" size. I
realize that I might have
stirred up gunk in my 2-3 year old live sand during move,
but wouldn't I see a noticeable uptick in nitrates? The tap water here
smells very chlorine-y also, but shouldn't my RO system be filtering bad
<It should... and you likely have a carbon contactor pre-filter. You
could test for free chlorine...>
My underlying question is; what could be simultaneously causing this
algae outbreak and also stressing the anemone?
<The gunk stirred up in your old substrate; subsequent allelopathy with
your other Cnidarians...>
Are there additional tests I can run to find out?
<Sure; HPO4, NO3, K....>
Here are some details about my tank: As mentioned 24 gallons, all-in-one
setup with Tunze 9002 protein skimmer, heater, power head, and bag of
MarineLand activated carbon dropped in back chamber every couple months.
Livestock: percula clown, royal gramma, Longnose Hawkfish, Banggai
cardinal. A couple hermits, a couple turban snails, 1 fighting conch, 1
tuxedo urchin, 1 skunk cleaner shrimp. Soft corals (Christmas tree,
various mushrooms, Zoas, leather), a few LPS (plate coral, hammer,
torch, war coral).
Levels: Nitrates, ammonia, nitrites all "0"
<Really? NO NO3? I'd check with another kit>
, pH 8.1, temp 78. I can measure for calcium and dKH but generally
don't. I used to dose iron but don't anymore.
<I would, and iodide-ate... I might skip ahead and dump the entire
existing substrate and replace first>
I have attached pictures of the algae (I think it is either
dinoflagellates or cyanobacteria),
<Likely... need a 'scope look and see>
and am desperate for a concrete way to put a stop to it.
I have also attached a picture of the anemone spawn, and anem pics
before and after move. Let me know if you need additional info to assess
Thanks in advance for your attention on this.
<Try searching, reading on WWM re these algae groups control.
Re: Help with Anemone and Algae
Apologies. I thought the pics were small enough, thanks for responding
anyway. I will replace my sandbed...are you able to make a
recommendation on live sand?
the linked files at top>
And yes, I have tested "0" Nitrate for the past year and a half...I just
figured my bioload was low enough or that I had a super effective bio
filter. I will get a new kit.
Anemone -?Splitting vs. Dying?; Open foot; Smoking
Bought this anemone on Friday.
<No image attached>
I noticed sand/shell/"squigglies" on the
foot when in the bag, but (embarrassingly) didn't give it much attention.
He appeared to live happily at his original spot in our tank with minor
movement by foot (& some "pooping" - yep, poop - removed from tank & could
tell by smell). He was there (with some open mouth during pooping) until
Monday, when we found him somewhat deflated & having floated to the back of
the tank. We figured he was just looking for a new home. Seeing as how we
didn't want him to decide on the back of the tank, I gently floated him to
another area (closer up front) Monday night. His mouth swelled some occasionally, but then back to normal. Today (Tuesday AM), he was still
there but on his side - giving me a better look at his foot. The center
appears open to mesentery(?). [Ugh - That's when I realized it'd been
there from the beginning - poking between the rocks/sand. If it's an
injury, then it happened when the LFS staff pulled him from the tank where
he was at the base of LR.]
Here's the real kicker: To make matters worse, later in the day it started
expelling smoky poofs... from the hole in it's foot! I got totally spooked
& pulled it from the tank. It's in a simple container right now & I'm
doing frequent water replacements from the main tank water.
The hole in the foot has "clean" almost-symmetric edging....?? Hm, is this
some spawning/splitting thing happening?
He's pretty big (at full size:
foot ~2-3" & head/tents ~6"+)... but I have trouble imagining anything good
when something's coming out the FOOT instead of the mouth.
Help! Is there a way to save him? Or, is he splitting & I'm fearful out
of ignorance of this process? Thanks in advance for ANY insight.
<.... we've seen this over and over. READ here:
"and the linked files above" (sing it like the jingle it is)>
PS - General parameters good.
pH 8.1; kH 9; Ca 400; T 77F; SG 1.023; NO2 0; NO3 < 2; PO4 = 0.
Fish, crab, snails, corals, etc are all doing well.
Also, LFS said they'd take him back & exchange him,
<IF this is practical; DO SO... ASAP. Will die, dissolve here... be ready to
remove, siphon out otherwise>
but they are > 1hr
away. Not an option right now, so I'm trying to treat or care for him as
best I can.
<Oh, here's that pic link>
<Don't think I can upload in Cozumel.... but can see... doomed>
<The reading; stat. Bob Fenner>
Re: Anemone -?Splitting vs. Dying?; Open foot; Smoking
Thank you Bob.
He did die late that night as expected.
I appreciate your response.
<Ah Lor; welcome. In my longish life have seen many thousands of large
actinarians lost for torn pedicles (along w/ other traumas,
mis-placement....). So much so that I've penned/placed a small book re
their selection, captive care (on direct to print and e-... svc.s on
Amazon.com). Your experience is the usual one. Bob Fenner>
Bubble tip & clone.... anemone incomp. 2/22/16
220 Reef tank. Kessil 360 W lights .1025 sal.
<Move the decimal place over one>
Good parameters light bio load on fish. I had a Sebae anemone in the tank with 1
rose bubble tip. All things fine. Doing 30 gallon water changes every 3-4 weeks.
The bubble tip spit about a month after I brought it home.
The clone located just a few inches away. About a month ago the Sebae started to
look less than it should have so it was moved to a separate system.
Seems to be recovering. The bubble tips were doing fine till a few days ago when
the clone appeared to be irritated by the tentacles of its sister
and after a couple of days moved away into a crevice and is shriveled up.
This should not have happened but it had the appearance of such . The other
bubble tip is looking like business as usual.
I think my problems may have started when about 3-4 weeks ago I
introduced 2 small mini carpet anemones.
<Aye ya... poor mixers. SEE, as in read on WWM re mixing Actinarians... NOT a
I have removed one that was easily taken but the remaining one about 2.5 inches
across is too well attached so for now it will remain and I am going to run some
There is a fairly sizeable Toadstool coral in the tank also but about 2.5 feet
from the bubble tips however I'm running a Tunze Wave box so the circulation may
be getting an issue with chemical war fare going which is what I suspect.
Yeah I know corals and anemones do not mix but I thought the size of the system
would help to dilute such issues.
<Does help; but need to acclimate/introduce the parties via
isolation/quarantine... As I've written and given presentations re over
I did have a devils hand leather coral in the system early on and had to move it
but that was long before the bubble tips
Comments from the crew for anything I may have missed other than not doing my
due diligence on compatibility.
<Not much more I can/will state than is archived, search-able on WWM. Bob
bleached anemones and lighting... Nine
megs of pix; photography-revelation
Hey guys, just wanted to send a quick note to you guys and thank you for
your website. I recently ran into an issue however and wanted to share
my experience. So first off some background about my tank.
125 gallon Reef Ready custom tank and stand with built in dual stand
overflow and a 50 gallon sump/refugium Orbital Current LED lighting with
Ramp controller Two Hydor Koralia power heads, a 3 and a 4 Reef octopus
XP3000 Skimmer PH 8.0Salinity 1.025Ammonia, nitrites, nitrate,
all 0 ppm
100lbs liverock various fish RBTA
I had just recently purchased a RBTA for my tank and when it arrived it
was very very small. Less than an inch across fully extended. After
doing the normal acclimation process for it and placing it in the
tank on the liverock. It chose a comfy spot about three inches from
where I placed it and settled in. It has been in my tank for about two
weeks now and has opened up and was showing great signs of health.
Eating well, lots of tentacle movement and extension, the whole bit. I
started to get worried when it seemed like it looked a little pale in my
tank. I wasn't sure how long it really looked that way maybe from the
moment I placed it in the tank. So I started doing research on bleached
anemones. Paid very close attention to pictures of what that looked
like, and asked advice from a few people on local reefing forums here in
my area. I worked myself into a frenzy over this idea that my anemone
was bleached and I needed to do something about it and keep vigilant
with feeding and other recommended steps to nurse it back to health. I
had taken a picture of the anemone and sent it to a few people and all
agreed that my anemone looked bleached and this was a critical time. The
first picture is what I sent, and received confirmation of a bleached
anemone diagnosis from several "experts". For more than three days I
wracked my brain over my bad luck. Including right up until an hour or
so before writing this note. Then it dawned on me...
The camera I had been using had the flash turned off from the last time
I used it. I turned it back on and took another picture of it with the
blue turned down to 10%. The second picture shows the actual anemones
coloration and overall health. The blue and white mix lighting each at
100% was playing games with my camera's color saturation and was skewing
my viewpoint of the anemone, and apparently everyone else's as well.
<Well; photography... is... about controlling light>
So there really never was anything wrong with my anemone at all. I
allowed myself to be fooled by the camera and my own eyes inability to
properly discern the anemones true coloration due to the over saturation
of certain wavelengths of light being emitted by the blue in my
So long story short.... Lesson learned. Just thought I would pass this
information along and hope that it helps someone else to properly
diagnose whether an anemone is actually bleached or not. Never trust a
single picture and sometimes even your own eyes to give accurate
information. I see tons of pictures of bleached anemones online all the
time, now the
first question I will ask if I am ever trying to help is, was the flash
on your camera turned on when you took the picture? What percentage of
blue was your lighting set to when the picture was taken.
<You've "traded" (filtered, screened) one part (bandwidth) of visible
EMR for another...>
Have a great day... Keep up the good work with the site.
<Still bleached, but thanks for sharing. Bob Fenner>
Green side on bubble tip anemone
I have a quick question about a green bubble tip anemone that was sold
to me by the lfs.
I never seen one with a green base on the outside. It is a bubble tip or
<Could be Entacmaea; but my guess would be on Heteractis
magnifica... at any length, this is a poorly specimen from its looks...
is the basal disc torn? I'd be returning it pronto>
Enclosed the pic of the chartreuse side. Thank you.
<Thank you for sharing. Bob Fenner>
Upset Anenome... another one down
My husband and I bought two clown fish and a purple tipped
anemone 5 days ago.
<... not easily kept>
The anemone seemed quite happy at the lfs hosting with a different clown
fish, but since we have gotten it home I've seen it "face plant" itself
into a rock over night and right now it is laying on the bottom
I don't want to keep moving it
<... stop. Try searching, reading on WWM ahead of writing us. Don't move
I can't imagine it's good for me to handle it along with just ending back
upside down. I'm wondering if this is usual while it looks for where it
wants to be, last night it kept spinning in the same spot about two
inches off the bottom for a couple of hours. The clown fish are
currently staying away from it though there is a peppermint shrimp that
likes to check it out
once ever now and then. I've checked all the water parameters they are
within normal limits, did a five percent water change. These are the
only things in the tank besides some snails and crabs. And last
question is this a wound on the bottom of its foot?
From what someone is telling me is it sounds like all of this
plus that fact that it is bleached is going to be fatal to my anemone,
is that true?
If not does anyone have any information for how I can try to nurse it
back to health?
Thank you for your time and help,
<A goner. Bob Fenner>
Urgent Anenome problem. News not at 11:00
This morning we woke up to find our purple LTA (Violet) stuck to
the front grill of a power head (1500GPH).
<Very common.... (just) search WWM re Anemones, Pumps... disasters>
After shutting off the power head and lowering her and the power head to
the sand bed, we saw part of her pedal had been sucked through a couple
slots in the power head grill. Initially, there did not look to be any
trauma to her pedal or tentacles although she was no longer "sticky".
Her pedal was stuck through the slits and swollen up on the other side
with no way to pull her out without damaging her pedal.
After waiting without success for several hours for her to deflate and
extract herself, we observed that she was getting less responsive and we
needed to do something quickly. We used some snips to carefully cut away
the detachable front grill of the power head and was able to free her.
We then noticed a shallow (<1/8") tear along the side of her foot about
We set her on the sand bed and although she looks good physically
(besides the tear, she is well inflated), she doesn't seem to be
attaching to anything instead, rolling back and forth across the 4'
aquarium over everything (LPS corals) on the sand bed. We reduced the
flow of the power heads (which are now shielded with stockings!) and
cordoned off the right hand side of the tank for her with egg crate and
moved the other corals on the sand bed to the other side. Hopefully, you
will agree this was a good idea (?). All tank parameters are stable
(SG=1.026, pH=8.18, Ca=420, Alk=9, Temp=78.8, N's=0, Po=0).
<... need appreciable Nitrate and Phosphate... see WWM re this also>
She has always been pretty good about keeping put and I believe the
reason why she ran in the first place was because the hose in our
Kalk/ATO was on the bottom of the bucket (woops.)and probably sucked in
some of the residual sediment and blew it into the tank during the
nightly dosing. Is this a reasonable explanation?
<Will suffice as such speculations go>
The power heads and ATO have been fixed to prevent issues like this from
occurring again. Is there anything in particular we can do to
nurse her back to health?
<... reading. Optimized, stable conditions, feeding>
When can we expect her to be back to normal (eating, attached, etc.),
assuming she survives?
<Can't tell from here>
Is there anything we need to watch out for physically?
Thanks for any suggestions you may have. much appreciated!
Carmela & Tim
<The aforementioned searching, reading. Bob Fenner>
Bleached Anemone 9/29/13
I ordered a Haddoni Carpet Anemone from Liveaquaria. It arrived
yesterday and I am concerned that it may be bleached.
<... the pic of the animal you've sent? Yes>
It is very light green. It seems to be very healthy. It is very sticky and
quickly buried it's foot deeply in the sand. I have always had such a
good result with all live stock ordered from them.
<A reputable firm>
Should I be concerned or is it possibly the natural color?
<Am cc'ing Kevin Kohen, who runs this division of Dr.s Foster & Smith...
Am very surprised that they'd send this specimen along. Bob Fenner>
Thanks for your help,
Re: Bleached Anemone 9/29/13
Wow!!!!! Talk about customer service, and from a volunteer site! Will
let you know the outcome.
<I encourage you to contact LA as well. BobF>
|Re: Bleached Anemone
My name is Kevin Kohen and I am the LiveAquaria.com director for Drs. Foster
and Smith. I am very sorry to see that you experienced a problem with
your recent LiveAquaria order number A2937672, as this is not the level of
service that you deserve.
I have reached out this morning to the staff in California and sent along
the image you had provided on WetWebMedia.com so that we can ensure that we
take the proper steps to correct the problem. The anemone you received
is definitely far too translucent and bleached, as its expelled most of its
Zooxanthellae. Please keep the anemone illuminated well and offer food
in the form of large Mysis, chunks of krill or other meaty foods several
times per week and hopefully it will regain its beneficial algae. This
may take up to 6 weeks, but from the sounds of it, the anemone has the
ability to capture food and adheres to a solid surface so that is a great
I have instructed our LiveAquaria.com staff to provide a refund back to your
credit card which was used to make the purchase for both the anemone and the
next day air Saturday shipping charge. You should see this on your
credit card statement in the next 72 hours.
Once again, this is not the level of service nor the quality of animals that
we are known for, and I am sorry for the problems associated with your
order. We truly value you as a customer and sincerely appreciate your
patronage and support.
If you have any further questions please feel free to reach out to me
directly or to our customer service staff by calling
Director of LiveAquaria
Drs. Foster and Smith
<Outstanding Kev; thank you for your prompt attention to this matter.
Re: Bleached Anemone
Thank you very much for emailing me, I really appreciate it!
<Kevin; your "A" efforts (Dr.s F & S) ARE the industry's exemplary standard.
Am glad to bring occasional/anomalous events to your attention.
Re: Bleached <sic> Anenome; rdg.,
Thanks so much for the quick response. I received a fast refund this morning
from LiveAquaria. You and your crew are the greatest! I will be attempting
to revive this anenome since it is still sticky and accepting
food. Any other hints you may have would be appreciated.
<Please do read here:
and the linked files above. B>
Is my anemone sick? Yes: Real trouble... reading; a voyage
of self discovery (!) 9/7/13
Hello, my anemone is fairly new, we had gotten it a few dad
<... likely day>
ago. As of now it is hanging down and it has transparent looking
skin coming off of the feet. It's mouth is opened very wide and
there are tentacles in the mouth as well. What's wrong with my anemone?
<Mmm, a bunch... This animal is badly bleached... Other signs of poor
health... Please search, read on WWM re general care. Bob Fenner>
Re: Is my anemone sick?
i have a 220 watt in a 55 gallon tank. is that wattage good enough?
<.... Amanda... you need to read; and soon... This may or may not be
"suitable" lighting... can't tell absolutely on the basis of energy
consumed... Read here:
SCROLL down to Anemones period... their systems, health... and read,
What measures do i take to help my anemone? Please help.
<... you're starting "too far back" in your education.
IF possible, I'd
return this animal, stat! BobF>
Injured anemone 3/2/13
Last night one of my live rocks shifted and landed on my green long
tentacle anemone. I quickly moved the rock once I realized it had
This morning I noticed that the anemone appears to have a tear on its
column. Is there any way it can survive this, or is it doomed for death?
<Yes; if it was healthy prior, the water quality is good, stable...>
Is there anything I can do to help it? Thanks!
<I'd overdose by double a dose of iodide-ate supplement (to the water).
See WWM re. Bob Fenner>
Sad Anemone :( 8/29/12
I have a concern about my anemone.
I attached a picture to give you a better idea. I got my water levels
<... need to have your own test kits... See WWM re rationale>
and everything was fine in that department. I read on your site about
feeding the anemone and I decided to buy some frozen krill.
This is the only change that's happened this past week. I feed him every
other day, stopped two days ago though because it was looking a bit sick
(closed up, shrivel looking tentacles) I'm not sure was the problem is,
for the 5-6 months I've had him, he's been great. Have you come across
this problem with my type of anemone?
<All types of large Pacific Actinarians used in our interest, yes>
Im continuing to look through out you site if I find an answer, but I
thought I would ask up front too.
<I'd keep reading... and soon. Bob Fenner>
Thanks for the help,
Dyed and dying
|Re: Sad Anemone :(
Thanks for the advice. The only reason why I haven't started testing the
water myself is because the fish store I go to is literally 5 minutes away.
By next month I will probably test myself, just need to wait for the next
pay day! so I just came back from the fish store, showed them the picture,
they said they do that every now and then and not to worry. my water levels
were: salinity: 1.023,
Ph:8.1, Calcium: 360 (a bit low they said), and nitrate nitrite
and ammonia are all 0 :)
<... stop writing please... and read on WWM. The anemone, all photosynthates
need measurable NO3, HPO4...>
so Im doing a small water change today, will keep reading WWM, (maybe if
I give it smaller pieces of krill???) and if anything changes I will seek
out WWM for some helpful advice!
Its a really beautiful anemone, I would hate to loose <lose> it!
<Keep reading. B>
re: Sad Anemone :(
<No need... DO read ASAP... this animal needs your intelligent help. B>
Re: Sick Anemone 2/6/12
Hi, sorry about that! I had our water checked and they said our
levels were perfect, I asked them and they said the anemone
could not be getting enough light, so I added lamps. However its still
about the same, only half of its tentacles are inflating, the ends stay
deflated. Is there anything to do?
Or just wait and see what happens? Also the color is fading.
<...? READ where you were last referred. ASAPractical.
anemones. Incomp. w/ "corals" 11/4/11
Hi Bob, thank you for being willing to share your expertise.
<Welcome... What else could I or anyone else actually do?>
I have a 150 g aquarium with 15 g sump, bioballs in 9" drop thru
two foam filters, and because of the bioballs a separate sand, live
rock and seaweed refugium (18 g), two house filters (pleated paper), a
Fluval canister for charcoal, 200 lbs live rock, crushed aragonite
substrate, use well water, <Mmm, I take it you've had this
tested... for your potable as well as petfish uses. If it's okay
for you, very likely fine for them>
system stays stable at ph-8.2(high buffering in my well water, NH3,
NH4, NO2 all 0, have thriving corals under a power compact lighting and
happy fish, except my clowns who have had to pine over several anemone
<Actinarians are not easily kept; especially in the presence of
other Cnidarian life>
I expect this to a degree as they don't handle stress the best, I
buy from smart fish stores and look for signs of disease and bring only
thriving specimens home. I dip in an anemone cleaner(use this for the
about fifteen minutes, put them where I think they'll like it and
let them alone. They thrive and eat for around a week and begin to
deteriorate, stop eating (which I don't fret about too much under
lights), huddle up more, attract the attention of scavengers, and
eventually definitely look like they are on they're way
out(dropping bits of tissue or producing copious mucous), at which time
I pull them, isolate them and none of them have made it out of
quarantine. One developed a white patch (fluffy like a fungus might be
or a bacterial infection) on its foot that spread very quickly. I have
searched for information on anemone diseases and how to treat with no
luck. Anyone have any ideas?
<Yes... Likely allelopathy... again, incompatibility w/ other
stinging-celled life... Read here re: http://wetwebmedia.com/AnemCompF5.htm
and the linked files above>
I hate to label my tank unsafe for anemones.
<It obviously is... There are instances/conditions where various
Cnidarian classes co-exist... they need to be slowly acclimated to each
others presence... Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/cnidcompppt.htm
particularly the area re mixing water twixt new/established
systems/organisms while acclimating over week's>
I did have a Haitian that lasted seven months and then quite eating and
shrunk, and a magnificent yellow orange sebae that also did well for
months but was never interested in food, there is now a pretty happy
blue tipped sebae in there that came in with two anemones that are
dying. It seems fine, it has chosen an area of lower light....my lights
are low already...but it looks good so I thought I'd leave it be
even though it is out of reach for feeding. The other two are in
quarantine and I could treat them if I knew what to give them. Should I
dip in iodine? Is there something else available
<... what you've experienced is so common, it's the rule
rather than the exception. READ where you've been referred to. Bob
Re: anemones, hlth. 11/11/11
Thank you for your time...sorry to hear that...... and I will follow up
on the links! The blue tip is thriving and eating so far! The clowns
are starting to check it out...wish me luck. Thanks again.!
<I do wish you good fortune. BobF>
I need your help with very sick looking maxi mini
I purchased 3 maxi mini anemones from an online vendor. They
arrived badly bleached. In 4 days they went from what you see in
the picture to pure white.
<Right next to the Mushrooms above? Not surprising>
They respond to light. Whatever little color they came with, 4
days ago, has now left them. How can I nurse them back to health?
Is it too late?
<.... read here re allelopathy: http://wetwebmedia.com/cnidcompppt.htm
and the linked files above>
They do not stick like the other maxi minis I have. My concern is
that they're not able to eat. Disputing with the vendor is
futile at this point.
I also ordered a purple gorgonian from them that also arrived
badly bleached. I've never seen anything like this.
<Gorgonians are generally poor shippers; NOT good beginner
The gorgonian shed and has good polyp extension. I can see a hint
of purple after 4 days. How do corals get like this?
<? Stress, inappropriate conditions, improper placement, too
Is it too much dosing, not enough light?? What? I'm feeding
oysterfeast, Phytofeast and frozen Cyclopeeze. I try to feed PE
mysis but the anemones just won't hold on to them. I'm
angry about this!
<What's the sense? Frustration?>
The photos attached are of the 3 anemones just 5 hours after they
They are the 2 on the bottom left and one mid bottom right. All
except the black/blue one are completely white at this point. The
black/blue one is fading fast. The Corallimorph on the bottom of
the rock was found when I lifted the rock. Not of major
<Uhh, yes; killing the anemones>
I suppose whatever would help the anemones would also help the
Corallimorph. I hate when vendors are so callous about these
beauties. It's criminal! Thank you.
<Where to have you start? You've provided no useful data
re the system, conditions... Do you own any reference works? Bob
Re: I need your help with very sick looking maxi mini
I have many reference books. Which ones do you have in mind?
<Anthony Calfo's BOP and the work by Eric Borneman done
for Microcosm from when I was their trade manager>
The anger and
frustration has passed. Now it's time to nurse them back to
health, if possible.
<Is... but rare if bleached entirely>
My apologies for not sending this initially.
The gorgonian and anemones are in a 75 gallon mixed reef.
Lights are 2-150 watt MH 20K, plus 4-54 watt T5's super blue
<These are of no functional use>
hours a day
CPR HOB refugium filled with macro and pods
30 gallon sump with ASMg-2 skimmer - 2 units of Chemipure elite
changed every 2 months
<?! Please check this... Way too low>
Temp 77 F
<... none? Some measurable is absolutely necessary>
10% weekly water change with reef crystals
<Mmm, and please see WWM re this IO product. Some batches have
proven problematical in recent years. I'd switch
B-ionic part I&II
Kent Marine Tech M Magnesium
Brightwell's - Restor
<Why these last two products? BobF>
Re: I need your help with very sick looking maxi mini anemones.
I'm not a fan of exercises in futility or slim odds, but feel
badly for these magnificent creatures. They deserve a chance.
Will test PH again when the lights are on for a while longer and
adjust accordingly. Phosphate - could be my test kit is off. Will
I've found that my corals respond well to Macrobacter7 and
Restor; brighter colors and amazing polyp extension after dosing.
Especially the LPS's.
What mix do you recommend?
<Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/synthsaltmixes.htm
and the linked files above... TM is my fave>
Yes, I have Mr. Calfo's "Book of coral
propagation". I also have "Reef Invertebrates" by
You and Calfo as well as "The Conscientious Marine
Aquarist" (fave book) by you. Have to search further to see
if what I have by
Borneman. I have many Marine aquarist and reef related books.
Thank you for your time.
Anemone Dying! What Do I Do?/BTA Health... death
I just received my new green BTA yesterday afternoon from Blue
I've always had great results with their livestock, so when I
received my anemone, I was very hopeful. When I opened the bag
after letting it float in my tank for about an hour, I
immediately noticed a foul smell, and saw that the mouth was wide
open and what looked like mesenteries we hanging out.
I called Blue Zoo and explained <explained> this to them
and they said to acclimate it as normal and
to put it in the tank and see how it does overnight. Well, when I
put it in, it immediately took hold of the rock I placed it on
and became a bit larger in diameter, but stayed shriveled and
continued pushing its "guts" out. I read everything I
could find on this with anemones, and all I could find was people
talking about brown stuff and how the anemone will go back to
normal after the lights come on and so forth, This one is not
<I believe you are misinterpreting that with expelling
I've included a photo, but it looks like a nuclear mushroom
<More like impending death.>
That's the only way to describe it. Everything else in the
tank seems to be doing well. You can see in the photo that my new
feather duster is doing just fine. The photo was taken right
around 0600 as I was getting up for work so I haven't had a
chance to test the water yet, but plan to right away, but need to
know what to do. Please help! Lighting is T5's and
<I'm afraid your anemone is near death and I would remove
from this system ASAP, possibly place in
QT in the event of a miracle. Your anemone likely poisoned itself
in its shipping water, and/or depending on your location and
transit time, shipping water parameters may have deteriorated
dramatically. Because anemones are poor shippers, I would prefer
buying one locally where I can observe the specimen first hand
before buying. Blue Zoo does give an arrive alive 7 day guarantee
so you may want to send them this pic before the guarantee
expires. James (Salty Dog)>