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FAQs on Bulb, Bubble Tip/Rose Anemone Health 8

Related Articles: Bubble Tip, Rose Anemones, Entacmaea quadricolor, Use in Marine Systems by Bob Fenner, Bubble Tip Anemones by Jim Black,  Recent Experiences with BTA's by Marc Quattromani, Anemones, Cnidarians, Colored/Dyed Anemones

Related FAQs: BTA Disease 1, BTA Disease 2, BTA Disease 3, BTA Disease 4, BTA Health 5, BTA Health 6, BTA Health 7, BTA Health 9, BTA Health 10,  BTA Health 11, BTA Health 12, BTA Health 13,
FAQs on BTA Disease by Category: Diagnosing, Environmental (Pollution/Poisoning, Lighting...), Nutritional, Social (e.g. Allelopathy), Trauma, Pathogenic (Infectious, Parasitic, Viral) Predatory/Pest, Treatments 
& E. quad. FAQ 1, E. quad FAQ 2, E. quad. FAQ 3, E. quad FAQ 4E. quad FAQ 5, BTA ID, BTA Compatibility, BTA Selection, BTA Behavior, BTA Systems, BTA Feeding, BTA Reproduction/Propagation,

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Anemone Success
Doing what it takes to keep Anemones healthy long-term

by Robert (Bob) Fenner

sick anemone? BTA rdg.   10/14/08 Hello guys, I was wondering if you could have a look at this rose bubble anemone. I have had it for a couple weeks. It seems to be losing color and getting more spotty looking. Also, the "bubble" tips don't really bubble much. <This last is a clue, but not evidence of diminished health per se> It is open most of the day, but seems to close up into a ball at least a couple times per day. <Mmm> It doesn't move very far from this area. I have fed it small chunks of krill <How small?> a couple times per week. My water parameters are logged, and average at the following: SG: 1.023 <Too low> ph 8.4 Alk 10 dKH ammonia 0 nitrites 0 nitrates 4.0 (steadily decreasing) <Not an issue> po4 0 <Might be an issue... how, why is soluble phosphate zero? IS a necessary component of this (and other) animal's health/nutrition> calcium 420 temp 80 I dose with iodide (half recommended dose) daily. <... I would not do this... Maybe full dose... on days/occasions when you change out water> water changes 15% every other week Any ideas as to why this guy looks so sad? Any input would be appreciated. Thank you. <All the speculations above. Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/bubbletipanemones.htm  and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Re: sick anemone? reading... BTA  10/14/08 Perhaps I am incorrect about the po4 level. I just started testing for it with the Salifert test. It is the first time I have used their products. I will retest in case of an error. What is the best result for po4 that I should shoot for? <Mmm... a "trace"... actually, as I vaguely hinted at "IF" you're not doing something to absolutely exclude HPO4, then you're likely fine here... That is, enough will be supplied "incidentally" through all foods, cycling of same...> In the test kit it says that .1 is critically high. <Mmm, I disagree> As for the krill feeding, I cut the frozen krill into pieces about the size of a match stick head. Thanks so much for your help. Jason <Please do read where you were referred. BobF>

Floating E. quadricolor, BTA, Plate Coral Doing Poorly, More Information Needed -- 6/4/08 I am new to this site and am not sure where this will end up on the site---it appears to be a bit confusing to me. I have 2 questions. <Okay! > I found several articles on bulb tipped anemones and found some great information. Mine (Annie--2 weeks old) has just decided last night to fill with water and float all over the tank. I understand this behavior means she is not happy and is looking for a prime spot. <Correct> Also, she seems a little lighter in color---perhaps she is not getting the proper nutrition/lighting. <It has expelled some of its zooxanthellae. This can be caused from lack of lighting, nutrition or another form of stress. > However she refuses to stick anywhere and has very little reaction to tentacle stimulation---and refuses to eat anything. <This does not sound promising. > I used tongs to target feed some fresh shrimp, then brine shrimp---she may have eaten a small amount of a shrimp pellet. <Brine shrimp is useless unless it is newly hatched, or enriched. Discontinue the pellet food, and try small portions of Krill, Mysis Shrimp, or Silversides. > My tank parameters have been consistent and good, and all of my critters are doing very well. How long do they usual do the float? <Until they find a suitable spot. If one is not available, it may float around until its death. > I know no one that has a different/better set up. Any ideas I can do? I also was given a small tentacle coral plate. <Fungia? > I also have read about their behavior----swelling with water at times. However-mine lives on a sandy substrate and the only indicator I see that she is alive, is that she is still orange. I see no tentacles and no food moving towards her mouth and refuses target feeding. She also has mucous around her. <Is it getting any flow? What are you feeding? How long have you had it? > I hope to hear from you soon-in the meantime I will continue to read more on your website! <Good! > 38G, live rock---mushrooms and polyps (1/2 the tank)---"shelf" model---rest is sand and small shells Nova extreme lighting-4 T5s-2 actinic blue, 2 VHO-Led light at night Penguin BioWheel 150 filter and a protein skimmer <What kind of protein skimmer? Do you have any other flow? > 2 Percula clowns, 3 green Chromis, 1 black and white Damsel, 3 blue/yellow tail Damsels <That's a whole lot of Damsels! > Several species of snail and hermit crabs, <Crabs can be predators. > 1 scarlet skunk cleaner shrimp, 1 peppermint shrimp, 1 serpent star, 1 bristle star, 1 shifting sand star T=78, PH=8.2, SG=1.022, <This is much too low of salinity for anemones. Gradually bring up to 1.026 by adding pre-mixed saltwater as your top off daily. > ammonia=0, nitrite=0, nitrates=5-10, <Work on getting nitrates down to zero. > calcium---350-400ppm, 12-14 dKH, <Your calcium is a bit low and your dKH is a bit high. See here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/alkalinity.htm and here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/calcalkmar.htm What is your magnesium level? > phosphates=.5 <Needs to be zero. > I also perform a 5 gallon water changes weekly and rinse filters daily. <Filters do not need to be rinsed daily. How old is your system? How much live rock do you have? > Thank you! Christina <You're welcome! Brenda>

Re: Floating E. quadricolor, BTA, Plate Coral Doing Poorly, More Information Needed -- 6/4/08  6/9/08 Thanks for the reply Brenda! <You're welcome! > Annie (BTA) is still alive-I am not sure how-unless she is getting minimal nutrition from the shrimp that I feed the fish. <It is likely getting some nutrition from the waste from the fish. > I lightly squished her into the live rock before bedtime-and hoped she wouldn't die---But she actually likes the spot!!! <Perfect! I'll keep my fingers crossed that it stays. Just be careful when handling the anemone. They are very delicate creatures.> Today I am going to buy some Krill, Mysis shrimp and silversides. <Great! > Re: the Fungia-I have no alt flow-I can buy a powerhead also. <You will need the added flow. This may have been what the anemone was looking for also. Be sure to cover the intake to protect the anemone.> I am feeding-frozen brine shrimp, shrimp pellets, sometimes fresh shrimp (small chunks), and Nori. The Fungia is still bright orange. I have had her for 4 weeks. My tank overall is a new tank---approximately 9 months old. I put in 19 lbs live rock when I set the tank up. I am bringing the SG up-as you said and yes, a lot of Damsels---a couple have a "gig" next week-to help cycle my mom's tank. <I don't recommend using fish to cycle a tank. See here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marcyclfaq2.htm and here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/estbiofiltmar.htm The parameters are better (ca2+ and alkalinity, ca=440ppm, and Alk=10dKH) Plan: Get Krill, Mysis shrimp, Silversides and Powerhead Slowly increase SG Get Magnesium tests I am trying with frequent water changes to bring the nitrates and phosphates down. <Have you considered a refugium and/or macro algae. More information found here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/refugium.htm > What is the best food for Fungia-I have heard many different opinions. <Meaty foods such as the Mysis, Silversides or Krill. > I will have to get back to you about the type of protein Skimmer. Thanks again!! Teena <You're welcome! Brenda>

Re: Floating E. quadricolor, BTA, Plate Coral Doing Poorly, More Information Needed -- 6/11/08 Just a quick update--The Anemone is eating the Silversides and the Fungia is eating (I now actually see it) the Mysis shrimp!! Everyone if happy with the increase in flow! Thanks again and I will talk to you soon! <That is great news! Brenda>

Troubled bubble tip- Bubble Tipped Anemone Lacking Light 4/29/08 Hi Crew, <Yunachin here.> Hopefully you can give me some promising information. I have a small bubble tip anemone that has been happy in my tank for a little over a year. This past week, the ballast in my light went out and I only have 36 watts on my tank until the replacement gets here on Friday. In the past few days, it has begun to detach itself from the rock and that seems a little worrisome. Would this be in regards to the lack of light? <Yes. Anemones will position themselves to get the best light or avoid too much light.> I will have the new ballast and 72 watts back on by Friday, but I wasn't sure if this is the problem, or something else. I have attached a picture that shows the foot detachment from the rock. It seems healthy otherwise, but if there is something I can do to prevent any further stress, then I wanted to get ahead of the game. <Everything looks good. I am sure when you replace the light that everything will be back to normal. It may move a bit but it looks healthy otherwise.> Thanks in advance for all the help!! Thanks!!!!
<You're welcome. --Yunachin>
There is a Euphyllia to the right... RMF
Anemone Health and Systems -- 4/24/08 My BTA is deflating in a very alarming way since Saturday morning. I understand they can deflate to defecate but this is not it. I've had the BTA for 3 months now and she has never acted this way. She is deflating with mouth wide open. <This is not good!> I can see her cavity empty. She is releasing a very thick gel (no poo) She will remain like this for the next 3-4 hours and come back to life. When she does, especially during night time, she gets very enlarged (over inflated) tips bubbled up, not normal for her. <It is not uncommon for this species to have bubbled tips some times and not at other times.> The water parameters are PH 8.0-8.2, Ammonia 0, Nitrates 0, the hard Nitrates 0.5 (just fed 2 hrs ago) the KH 10. The GH text never works for me but today is the schedule water change. There are a few factors to consider so I need your help. First, I did a Blackout on 4/12 for 40 hours to control algae bloom. <What is causing the algae bloom?> After that my largest Clownfish changed behavior. He is the only clownfish that was purchased at a store. He (or should I say She) is projecting dominance towards my other clownfish. These acts of dominance are staged on the anemone. Can the clownfish be roughing up the BTA? <Yes.> Could she be repelling the fish? <It looks to be starving and slightly bleached. What have you been feeding?> On Friday I moved my small Hammer coral 5 inches down from the BTA who sits in the top of a cave. The BTA did not show any signs of harm or stress. See April 18 pic. <You have only sent April 23 pictures.> On that day I also change the power head that is pointed in the direction of the BTA (on 15min intervals). It is a stronger power head than the last one. <Be careful with powerheads. I don't recommend there use in a tank with anemones. If your anemone starts to wander, which is a likely event, it will be shredded.> Because she looked fine around 5pm, I decided to meet with my clownfish breeder to get more fish. I had 4, one died and soon after the aggression began. <You will have aggression with more than one pair of clownfish. Only one pair per tank unless you have a system of a few hundred gallons or more. Even with a few hundred gallons, there is no guarantee that the clownfish will get along.> That Saturday night I also purchased some frags a Xenia and a Frogspawn from the breeder. When I came home to add the new species the BTA looked normal. I positioned the Frogspawn 3 inches from the Hammer coral who immediately released thin streaks of gel. <How did you acclimate?> It was late at night and I didn't pay any attention to it and went to bed. Next morning the corals look great but the anemone didn't. After finding out the chemical war I probably initiated between the two corals, I moved the Frogspawn to the other end of the tank. Still, the BTA shriveled up and released gel the next day. Can the corals be causing the problem? <They are not helping.> The BTA is fed Mysis and little shrimps. <You may want to try small portions of Silversides soaked in Selcon.> By accident we fed the anemone 4 times last week (boyfriend forgot to check the feeding calendar I keep on the fridge) I normally place the shrimp on the tentacles next to the mouth and she picks it up if desired. Apparently she desired all 4 times. <Is there anything stealing its food?> To add to it...On Monday night my mother in-law got me a Sebae Anemone. It is sitting in the opposite side of the tank, attached and looking great. I don't know if my tank is big enough to keep both. <It is not recommended to keep different species of anemones in the same tank.> I will get a smaller tank to keep it separate if needed. <This tank needs to be a well established environment for an anemone. Six months to one year of age is the recommendation.> I have a 120g tank that has been running since Nov 07, skimmer, sump, 3 power heads and VHO light system. <Your tank wasn't ready for an anemone. This is adding to the problems. I recommend using Metal Halide Lighting or some T-5 with individual reflectors on a tank of this depth. This may be part of the anemones problem.> The BTA was added to the tank 3 months ago Hammer Coral in tank for 3 weeks Neon green Nephthea in tank for 1 month Frogspawn Coral and Xenia and a small frag of Porites coral were added on Saturday night Sebae anemone, blue hippo tang and new small frag of pink polyps were added Monday night (gift from the in-laws). 7 Clownfish (one died before the blackout) <Yikes! That is a lot of clownfish! Five of them need to find new homes.> Yellow Tang Blue Hippo Tang Snowflake Eel...don't ask :) <You really need to research your live stock before you purchase and add to your system.> I added pics from this morning changes 10am and 2pm. I will appreciate ANY advice you can give specially in the landscaping area. <More live rock would help. You don't have nearly enough for a 120 gallon system.> As you can see, it's very difficult for me to plan the landscape based on species, temperament, light and water flow. <This becomes easier in time with a lot of research. More information on anemones found here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/anemsysfaqs.htm  > Thank you
<You're welcome! Brenda>


E. quadricolor, BTA Health -- 4/24/08 Hi Crew, <Hello, Brenda here! > We have a local reefer who was sold a "rainbow" BTA that I'm calling out as bleached. <There is no such thing as a 'rainbow' BTA. Yes, this anemone is definitely bleached. > I'm trying to give some tips on care (heavier than normal feeding, low to moderate light) and I'd like your opinion on it as well, and appreciate it: http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k133/lishoop6/Jeannastank4-22-08001.jpg  <Heavy feeding will only cause more stress on this animal. Over feeding will cause regurgitation, leaving the anemone with nothing. I recommend feeding small portions soaked in Selcon daily. What lighting is this anemone being kept under? More information found here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemonehealthfaqs.htm Brenda >

E. quadricolor, New Tank Issues -- 11/14/07 Hello once again! <Hello Ryan, Brenda here> I have yet another question for you. <Not a problem!> It never ends, does it? <No, but this is how we all learn, and why we are here.> Thanks for all your great help so far and hopefully you can help me out with this interesting situation? <I'll try!> I recently moved my bubble tip anemone and its clone to a new tank. The new tank was setup with existing live rock and water, as well as some Chaetomorpha algae. <This is not an instant cycle. This creature needs an established environment, including the sand bed. This takes a minimum of 6 months, one year is best.> Everything has been going well, except the endless walking around the tank. <It is not happy.> Different flow and lights will cause that. <The new tank is likely the cause.> Yesterday I came home from work and found something interesting. The anemones had been fed the day before and looked a little unhappy. <What are you feeding it?> I took a look and found something interesting? I've posted this on three forums and no one has responded, which, in my opinion means no one has an answer? Today the anemones look much happier and the "egg sac" in the attached picture is gone. After I took the picture last night I noticed the tentacle started to tear open but I did not stay up late enough to see if anything was released? I added some carbon and did a water change just in case something in the tank was off. <You need to keep a close eye on your water parameters.> Thanks for looking, Ryan. http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s7/RyanSc_photos/IMG_1496.jpg  It is just to the right of the mouth. <Yes, I see this.> Any ideas? <Well, I can tell you, it is not an egg sac. Here is a link to a thread that shows eggs inside of an anemone. The pictures in this thread are amazing. http://forum.marinedepot.com/Topic74210-9-1.aspx This is also a good article to read: http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/nov2002/feature.htm  As far as what is going on; it could be a number of things. It looks to me like one of its tentacles has become injured or irritated. What are the tank mates, including fish, corals and invertebrates? Have you noticed anything bothering it? Are there any possibilities that salt accumulated somewhere and dropped into the tank, landing on the anemone? What are your water parameters? How long has this tank been up and running? Did you transfer the sand bed over also? If so, how long did you leave it cycle before adding the livestock? Thanks again. <You're welcome! Brenda>

Re: E. quadricolor, New Tank Issues -- 11/15/07 Hi Brenda, thanks for the reply. <Hello Ryan, and you're welcome!> You are not going to like this? <Yikes!> I did the entire change over in one day! <Ouch!> After asking many people if it would be OK if I used existing live rock and water as well as some Chaeto, they all said yes. <No, it is not ok, especially with anemones.> So if this was not OK what can I do now? Water parameters were fine until I fed the anemones, I fed them shrimp, same shrimp I've fed for over a year. My ammonia was a little high the day after and I'm assuming that one or both of the anemones did not eat their "dinner", causing the higher ammonia. <The ammonia spike is caused by the cycle. This is extremely toxic to anemones.> I did a water change to fix the problem, a rather large water change and after that they both looked fine. Here are the water parameters, ammonia 0, nitrite 0 (yes I'm sure), nitrate 0, calcium 400, Alk 10 DKH, salinity 1.025, temp. 79....I think that's it. <I do recommend a salinity of 1.026 for anemones.> The tank has a couple of frags that were attached to the live rock, Montipora and that is it, no other corals or fish....oh other than the one Palythoa hijacker. Please let me know if there is a way I can fix this situation? <I suggest getting the anemones out of there for a while. See if you can find someone local to take it in. If you are starting with a new sand bed, you need to wait a minimum of 6 months. If you transferred the old sand bed, it will take less time, but I can't give you an exact time frame. It could take a few weeks, or even a few months. There are too many variables. You will need to keep checking your water parameters. Once everything has been stable for a while, you can put the anemones back in.> I assure you I did a lot of questioning before I went ahead with this move and everyone said it was fine. Now I need your help, please. I did not check the links yet because I'm in a bit of a rush and trying to catch you today rather than tomorrow. Thanks for your help, Ryan. <You're welcome! Brenda>

Re: E. quadricolor, New Tank Issues -- 11/16/07 Thank you Brenda! <You're Welcome!> Sorry to keep this going back and forth with you. <No need to be sorry!> The sand is new, I thought I was saving myself cycling issues by doing this rather than using old "dirty" sand, apparently I was wrong. <Even when using old sand, there will still be a cycle.> I have little trust in others in my area, I work at a LFS but don't want my anemones there because they cram them all in one little tank. <Ouch! I know what you mean! When visiting a LFS, I first look at how they treat their anemones. I can't count how many times I've left feeling sick! I have found very few LFS that provide an adequate environment for this creature.> I don't know anyone else (local) with a tank that would be suited to keep anemones. <Wish I could help, I would gladly take the anemones in for a while if you were local.> So that being said I would prefer to try and fix the problem by myself. I watch things very carefully and hopefully I can pull this off? I have a SPS reef tank that has been doing great for over a year (started it before that). Here's what I've been doing. I'm making 5 gallons of new saltwater per day, letting it rest (with a pump) for a day, adding that to my reef tank, then I take 5 gallons out of my reef tank and change 5 gallons on my anemone tank. <This is a waste of effort in my opinion. You simply can not create an instant cycle. Your new tank needs time to cycle. Dirty water is not the solution. Once your tank has cycled it will still not be an adequate environment for anemones.> Not the best method but hopefully this will get me through this 6 month period? I know you are not going to be all that fond of this idea. <No, I'm not fond at all, neither are the anemones. They need an established environment, no less than 6 months, no short cuts here.> Do you think it is possible to keep my anemones if I continue to do this? <It is a possibility, but not a probability, also not fair to the anemones to be kept in such an environment.> My other option would be to somehow get them back in my reef tank. <This would be my choice, with a slow drip acclimation to reduce added stress.> I would prefer not to lose my corals. That is an option that I would rather not go for. <Were the anemones in the SPS tank previously? Were there problems that made you decide to move them, roaming, etc.? I keep anemones with SPS, and have had no issues. My anemones do not roam, and I keep the SPS away from the anemones. Granted, this is not a guarantee that they won't roam someday. Can you tell me more about your SPS tank? Size, equipment, livestock, water parameters, amount of flow, RO or RO/DI water, is there room for the anemones? I appreciate your help a lot. Please try and see things from my point of view on this. <I do, (and the anemones view) we've all made mistakes.> I am doing my best to keep them happy. I guess I should have emailed you first, before I made the transfer. By the way both anemones look very healthy and happy! <This may not be long term.> Thanks so much, Ryan. <You're welcome! Brenda>

Re: E. quadricolor, New Tank Issues... Brenda! Refer Ryan!  -- 11/16/07 Hi Brenda, <Hello Ryan!> Thanks again! <You're welcome!> The anemones were in the SPS tank before but the two used to be one, it split and then both started roaming. <Both are a sign of stress.> They are also very large so their tentacles swaying in the current (lots of flow) were causing problems with my corals and clam. <Yes, that is a problem!> I use RO/DI water, have 4000 gph of flow (90 gallon tank), <That is a lot of flow, likely too much for anemones.> a EuroReef skimmer, Kalk reactor, refugium with a DSB and Chaeto, 500 watts of metal halide lighting (10K), 100+ pounds of live rock, 30 gallon sump, etc. <Nice equipment!!!> My water parameters in the SPS tank are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 1.5, calcium 400, DKH 11, Ph 8.3, temp. 79, SG 1.025-1.026.....I think I got all of those? My SPS tank is packed full of corals and my main concern is the anemones wandering or letting loose of the live rock and floating into a Tunze powerhead. <I don't recommend the use of powerheads with anemones. If you must use them, they need to be covered with something to protect the anemone.> I can provide you a link to a picture to show you my tank so you get a feel for how packed it is. My other thought was putting them in the refugium but then I would have to buy an additional light and most likely keep that light on at the same time my tank lights are on (not sure why I think that?). <I don't know why you think that either. I recommend the refugium light to be on at opposite times of the main tank. Placing the anemones in the sump (with proper lighting) is an option as long as you can be sure the anemones are protected from all pumps. Anemones going through a pump can wipe out an entire system. Without seeing your set up or knowing how much flow is going through it, I really can't recommend it.> I certainly want to keep the anemones happy so I'll do what I need to. I'm also wondering if there would be a safe way to connect the two tanks for a period of 6 months. I cannot drill the tank, it's brand new acrylic and cost enough that I would not feel comfortable putting a temporary hole in it. <I don't blame you. What size/type tank is your new one? How close is it to the old one? What lighting do you have on it? Do you have any old tanks around that you could temporarily connect to the established tank, a 20 gallon or so? I do suggest running carbon, and frequent water changes when mixing coral and anemones. The initial problems you experienced may have been caused by chemical warfare, along with too much flow.> I really appreciate all your help. Here's a picture so you can see what I'm dealing with. http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s7/RyanSc_photos/IMG_1508.jpg <Yes, a bit crowded for anemones.> I guess the other option would be to cage them in with some egg crate until they are attached and happy? <There are no guarantees that creating a cage will create happiness. I believe there is simply too much flow in your main tank, and possibly chemical warfare. In the mean time, take a cup or two of sand out of your established tank, and start seeding your new tank.> Thanks once again, Ryan. <You're welcome! Brenda>

Re: E. quadricolor, New Tank Issues -- 11/17/07 Thanks Brenda! <You're welcome> Wow the longest running WWM FAQ ever....I'm joking. I do have extra tanks but connecting them safely would be an issue. The only way I could do that is to have a pump in the main tank and a pump in the connected tank, both pumping water back and forth, we both know you should not do that. The refugium may work. I have no pumps in the Fuge, just a feed pump from a different area of the sump which supplies clean water and lower flow. I would need to upgrade the lighting but other than that I think that may work. Here's what I'm going to do today. Take some sand out of the refugium, add it to the anemone tank, take a large amount of Chaeto and add that to the anemone tank as well. I am also going to try and add some flow without having a pump directly in the tank with the anemones. I think they miss the flow. Both settled in a very high flow location in my reef tank so maybe that's what they're looking for. <They are suffering from being placed in a non-cycled/non-established tank. It is important that you get them out of there. This is not only very stressful on anemones, but also one of the leading causes of death in captivity.> I'll assume this will be the last email about this, so once again thanks so much for all your help. I'll give you an update in a month or so. Thanks, Ryan. <Good luck to you! Brenda>

Re: E. quadricolor, New Tank Issues -- 4/7/08 Hi Brenda, <Hello Ryan! It has been a while! > I hope you're the one who gets this? <Sorry for the delay, I've been out for a few days. > I wanted to let you know everything with the two anemones is going well, no issues at all. It was a little rough at the start but after a month or so everything seemed to cool off. <Keep an eye on them. You are just approaching the 6-month mark. The stress that the move has caused them over the last few months could cause them to rapidly decline if there is even a slight problem. > The anemones have not moved in months and are very happy in their new home. <Good to hear! > I seem to have a bit of a nutrient issue which caused a population of Aiptasia to explode, but other than that everything is going really well. <You'll want to get that under control. Aiptasia can sting BTAs.> I recently bought a used AquaC Remora skimmer, which will help with the nutrient load. <Awesome product! Keep the pump away from the anemones. > I know you thought and insisted this could not be done, but with frequent water changes and careful feeding I seem to have accomplished something most apparently cannot? <My thoughts have not changed. It is very stressful on the anemones, unfair, and often deadly. See the before and after pictures that you submitted below. > I also added 2 black and white clowns (tank bred), which love the anemones! <Adorable clownfish! > Here is a picture of the happy anemones and their happy clowns. http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s7/RyanSc_photos/IMG_2221.jpg <It looks like they have lost quite a bit of color (zooxanthellae) since this picture that you sent me in November: http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s7/RyanSc_photos/IMG_1496.jpg This really shows just how stressful the last few months have been on them. If there are no more problems, they should continue to recover.> Thanks for all your help!! You're welcome! Good luck to you! Brenda>

Re: E. quadricolor, New Tank Issues -- 4/8/08 <Hello Ryan!> Thanks for the concern and pointing out the color difference to me, but I think I have an explanation of why they looked so bright before? <Okay.> That picture, the one from November was taken when the lights were off using flash and possibly a flashlight. The color from the flash or flashlight is much more yellow than the color from the lights on the tank. The reason I took that picture at that time was because it was the only time the anemone was deflated enough to see the weird egg shaped tentacle. I'm not saying this was a brilliant idea to put the anemones in a new tank and I hope things continue to work out the way they have. <I hope so too. However, this photo http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s7/RyanSc_photos/IMG_2221.jpg leads me to believe this anemone has not completely regained its health. > The lighting they were in before was 500 watts of metal halide and now they are under 130 watts of PC lighting. <What size tank are they in now?> Maybe that caused a difference in color as well? <Lighting does play a role in coloration. However, I'm seeing some white and some areas that look a bit transparent.> They have been eating when I feed, which has been very sparingly so far and appear to be perfectly happy? <Try feeding some small portions of silversides soaked in Selcon, and feeding more often.> I really hope I'm not wrong and this continues to work out? <With an adequate environment, they will continue to improve.> About the skimmer, it's located in a back chamber of the tank; the tank has an internal filtration system so everything is hidden behind the overflow which should prevent any damage to the anemones from pumps. <Great!> Thanks for all your help and if you would like I can give you another update in a month or two? <That would be great!> Thanks again, Ryan <You're welcome! Brenda>

BTA anemone.... hlth.  3/30/08 I Just want to make sure my BTA is ok. <Hi, Mike I here with you today> I had a GBTA shipped to me it looked great the first day. It was acclimated properly all of my parameters are ok according to Salifert tests <You don't list them, so cant comment> My salinity is 23 with a refractometer. <This could do with being pushed up slowly over time to around 1.025/6 I have a 180 g with 30 g sump at least 100# live rock. It 's been up for over a year I have a G+4 skimmer with recirc mod and a canister carbon filter. Lighting is 3 250w MH 4 96w compact actinic and moon lighting all on timers coralline power heads and 1200 maxi jets with the impeller mod.s There is no coral yet can I have Acans with a BTA? <Other have, and providing you're skimmer is adequately sized for your tank, and perhaps you run a little carbon frequently, there should be no issues> Fish are tangs, true Percs gobies and a 6 line. My question is it shriveled a lot but is still bright green It doesn't open all the way not much for balls on the tips. it did the first day I also left the MH off the first day) <It's common for anemones to take a little while longer after initial acclimation to settle, deflation and re-inflation, providing it does not go on into 2 weeks I wouldn't initially be concerned with the information you have provided. However, if something is off in your water quality, then could be linked> It secured itself to one of my overflows but what is all the white slime? I removed the slime is it poop? <I don't know without a picture. It not common for white slime to slough off anemones, only when they are in the final stages of decomposition.> It has some dark balls in it looks almost like spider webs is it digesting <Dark balls/spiders web, hmmm, the only thing I can think of regarding dark balls is that BTAs can brood eggs/sperm and release fertilised planulae - not likely in this case however. Again a picture would help> I fed it a silver side the second day I have had it for about 5 days opens more under the moon lights than it has during the day. <Again, not uncommon while it adjusts to your lighting regime, which may be considerably more than it has been used to of late> I just want to make sure It survives. The Percs love it. I let it go in the current and place it self and have not moved it. Thanks for the help <Firstly, please run your question through a spell check before sending if possible, and don't forget punctuation - it makes it much easier for us to deal with your queries. I recommend you start reading here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm  and then the linked indices on BTAs starting perhaps here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/bubbletipanemones.htm  I'm concerned to hear you animal has settled near overflows - do be careful; these are very delicately bodies animals and can tear/injure easily. This goes for the powerheads you mention too. make sure they are covered/protected so the animal cannot hurt itself. Do write back if you have any extra information as requested, or if we can help further. Good luck! Mike I>
Re: BTA anemone  4/1/08
It doesn't look like it is decomposing. It is mostly open today. I was just wondering what the white slime was. I can't take a picture of it cause I took the slime out there was a lot of it all around the anemone thanks. <Hi Tayler! Mike I again. The only thing I  can think of could be the animals own mucus that sometimes comes from handling. If it reoccurs do take a picture, but if not, it may be nothing to worry about. Good luck, and watch those powerheads! Mike I>

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