FAQs on Freshwater Livestocking 13
Related Articles: Stocking 5, 10 & 20
Gallon Freshwater Aquariums by Neale Monks, Freshwater Livestock by Neale
Livestock Selection by Bob Fenner, The Ethical Aquarist;
Freshwater Fishes to Avoid by Judy Helfrich Acclimation of New Freshwater
Livestock by Bob Fenner, Fishes, Amphibians, Turtles,
Related FAQs: Mis-stocking issues
(incompatibility behaviorally and/or environmentally),
FW Livestock 1, FW Livestock 2, FW Livestock 3, FW Stocking 4, FW Livestocking 5, FW Livestocking 6, FW Livestocking 7, FW Livestocking 8, FW Livestocking 9, FW Livestocking 10,
FW Livestocking 11, FW
14, FW Livestocking 15,
Systems, & Freshwater Livestock
Selection, Community Tank
Stocking shoaling fish, FW
A quick question while my 100 litre tank cycles. I am planning to
stock with groups of 8-10 of sterbai Corydoras, rummy nose tetras,
and silver Hatchetfish. My question is when stocking a shoaling
species, how many can I add to the tank at once?
<Mmm; depends on such factors as what you have placed already, the
size of the system, filtration, species being added... >
for instance, can I bring home 8 corries, and introduce four at
once, keeping the other four temporarily in a QT, or is it better to
buy them at separate times? I know you shouldn’t introduce too many
fish at once, but don’t want to stress them by being alone. Also
want to establish pecking orders by having different size/age of
As always, thanks for your help.
<Ahh, for these Corydoras and your 100 liter, I'd add all at once,
after the system is cycled. Bob Fenner>
Re: Stocking shoaling fish 10/20/19
Thanks, Bob. Tap water pH 6.4,
<Oh; may want to raise this up a bit... perhaps 6.8 or so... with
simple sodium bicarbonate or commercial product... for the catfish>
temp. 27, KH & GH near 0. Only purchased
driftwood and Amazon Frogbit in tank, Eheim external canister 250.
<Nice! A fave plant and my most favorite brand/make of filters>
add entire shoal of each species one at a time after cycling
<Ah, good. B>
New tank setup; FW stkg. 7/19/19
I hope all is well,
<Well, sort of... but anyway!>
I am setting up a new 3 foot , 200 litre tank, and deciding how to stock it, I
have narrowed it down to a few options that I'd like your advice on please..
1 - Tetraodon miurus
I know a lot about the 'ambush' puffers. I am wondering, could I try a group of
3 of these as it's a big tank with lots of cover and feed them regularly?. I
know they are super super aggressive, but I know in the Congo where they export
these, they keep dozes of these together in vats whilst they are waiting to
export and they avoid aggression buy feeding regularly.
I do have back up options if this doesn't work (other tanks).
<I'm not sure 3 will be enough to eliminate aggression, to be honest. Yes,
you're right, "overstocking" can prevent territorial fish from claiming their
territories, and ergo, they're not able to move onto the next step in their
programming, which is to defend said territory.>
2 - Tetraodon/leidon cutcutia
I know these are a little more active but still relatively sedentary, aggressive
but not quite as nasty as the miurus - possibly a group of 6-8 of these as they
stay fairly small?
<Possibly, but they're still a good 8-10 cm long when they're grown up, and
that's quite a lot of fish to put in a 200 litre tank. Still, worth a shot if
you have heavy filtration and a Plan B.>
3 - a group of 6 Channa bakanhensis
<Bit more risky, I suspect. Adult size is variable, but up to 30 cm, so a group
of them would be much too much for a 200 litre tank. Juveniles should be fine as
a group, mind.>
These only get 6-8 inches and I know of a shop that has a group of 6 who have
been kept together for about a year, all are fully grown and no problems.
<Not convinced these are necessarily full grown, and in any event, the species
does seem very variable in this regard, perhaps dependant on where they are
My tank is bigger than the one in the shop in which they have been in for a year
so this could work, and who knows, with the right water conditions may even
<Possibly. Breeding requires quite soft and acidic water, I believe.>
Please can you let me know your thoughts? I know some of these ideas aren't
conventional, but I'm looking for something a bit different - happy to hear any
suggestions you have. It seems that it is puffer season at the moment as I have
seen suvattis, hairys, miurus, palembangensis etc all available.
<I'd suggest visiting and posting on The Puffer Forum. The guys and gals there
have a lot of experience, more so than me, so I think you'd find a visit
I have seen schoutedeni, but I already have a big tank with a group of 10 of
these. I am looking for something a bit more interesting that dwarf puffers or
<Understood. Unfortunately, Pufferfish don't really work that way.>
New fishkeeper advice; FW stkg. 6/23/19
After extensive web trawling I have come across your site, its extensive forum
discussions, and now your email address to see if you can help with a couple of
issues we are facing as new fishkeepers .. parents helping 13 yr old. Rapidly
finding mixed messages btw stuff we've read and our local store, a branch of
<Understood. The MA chain is generally excellent, but each 'branch' operates a
bit more like a franchise, buying into the identity, and maintaining certain
standard, but how the store is run in terms of
livestock, recruitment, etc. is very much up to the branch manager. So some
branches will specialise in cichlids because that's what the branch manager
likes, while others will be stronger than average in marines, yet others will
regularly import oddballs like killifish rarely seen in other branches. Staff
vary, from the average sort of store clerk through to dedicated hobbyists who
know enough to write books. I've yet to see a genuinely bad branch, in the sense
of a place with dead fish littering the tanks for example, so on the whole, I
like to recommend the Maidenhead Aquatics chain as a basically safe bet for the
casual hobbyist. But some branches are definitely exceptional and worth a trip,
even compared against the more 'famous' independents like Wildwoods or Pier
Around Easter established brand new 65 litre tank with live plants and rocks,
filter and heater. 24 C. After 2 weeks added first fish, 6 Male guppies, 3 x
dark blue and 3 x red fin and 2 orange shrimp (one died after couple of days,
other one fine and has had baby, now back to 2). All went fine. Regular water
changes happening. About 3 weeks later bought 10 neon tetra to join
<A questionable combination, and to be honest, I don't rate either Neons or
Guppies as 'easy' fish. Let's begin by pointing out the fact Neons prefer
relatively cool, soft water: 22-25 C, 2-10 degrees dH, pH 6-7.5. By contrast
fancy Guppies at least appreciate warmth, 25-28 C, and despise soft water,
requiring at least 10 and ideally 15-25 degrees dH. While not essential, the
addition of a little salt can help tremendously, maybe 2-5 gram/litre. There's
not much overlap between them, so they're unlikely to
thrive in the same tank. Now, the other reason to avoid both species is the
generally poor quality of the specimens in the trade. Neons are just hopeless,
and after trying a few times, I've just written them off as worthless. Possibly
with soft water, suitable quarantining and ruthless removal of sickly specimens
you might get lucky, but for the average aquarist they're very risk. Guppies
vary, and specimens bred locally are normally fine. But the farmed specimens do
seem prone to diseases, and I suspect that extensive use of antibiotics ensures
they survive okay on fish farms and through the supply chain, but once in the
home aquarium, a fair number of specimens seem to just waste away. Again,
quarantining, perhaps alongside suitable use of antibiotics on a prophylactic
basis, could do the trick, and certainly optimal water conditions help, but
again, as fish for casual aquarists stocking ordinary community tanks, I'd write
them off as too risky.>
Within 1 week slight signs of white spot on the tetra.
<Whitespot is not uncommon in new tanks, and medications like eSHa EXIT -- my
favourite for this disease -- should work quickly and effectively. The old
heat/salt method can work too.>
Back to store, given tank treatment, spots on tetras appeared to clear overnight
but then lost about 2 a night over last 3 nights. 2 remaining but not very
active. Probably only a matter of time ... During this time the most aggressive
dark blue guppies taken to tail biting one of the red ones.
<Male Guppies can be mutually aggressive. Certainly, keep large numbers if
they're just males, six or more, and the bigger the group, the safer they'll be.
If mixed with females, which can help, outnumber the males with twice as many
Significant chunk gone - see attachment. So trying to understand what has
happened and move forward positively. Fear end of line for tetra, presume sick
batch or tank shock? What do you think?
Is it worth trying again with another shoal style fish after a gap period?
<Certainly there are many better, easier species. For casual aquarists, schools
of X-ray Tetras (also called Pristella tetras), Emperor Tetras, and False
Penguin Tetras (widely sold as just plain old Penguin Tetras) are perhaps the
three best picks. They handle hard water perfectly well, and in groups of at
least 6 specimens, behave completely peacefully. Emperors are quirky in that
males hold little territories, but given space they won't do any harm. Cherry
Barbs are a good Asian alternative, with males and females
having different, but equally charming, colouration. They're especially fun to
watch! So far as livebearers go, none of the common species are truly bombproof
any more thanks to decades of inbreeding, but if you can get wild-caught or
so-called 'Feeder' Guppies (essentially mutts or crossbreeds) then these can be
good. Personally, I keep Limia species instead; these are similar to Guppies,
not quite so colourful, but lively and hardy. Various species out there, the
Humpback Limia and Blue Limia my two top picks.>
For guppies is it best to isolate aggressor or tail damaged one?
<See above; isolate the aggressive male in a breeding trap for a few days can
help, but in a small group, the next male down the pecking order will likely
become the bully instead.>
Have tried both approaches for about 24 hrs with little change in behaviour. If
this aggressor removed, will another assume that role (pecking order style) or
cannot say for sure.
Injured fish also now showing slightly swollen tummy (which have read could be
stress response too)
<Possibly, but more likely sick; Epsom salt usage at 1-3 teaspoons per 5
gallons/20 litres can work a treat if the problem isn't a bacterial infection.>
Any help and guidance on above and best next steps would be appreciated.
Welcome to publish this on the site if it could help others, just wasn't sure
With thanks. Phil
<Hope this helps, Neale.>
UK aquatics shop - last minute tour route advice needed.
Sorry to both you again (I feel I have driven you mad the last week!)!!
<Not at all.>
Some last minute advice...
I have managed to get a last minute day off work on weds. There is some
rare fish at a shop in London I have been after for a while and so going
to drive down especially for them. I have decided to make it an 'aquatic
tour' day out. My planned route (subject to traffic) is as follows:
1. Wharf Aquatics (get there for as it opens at 9)
<Famously good store, much loved by PFK and a lot of the expert
fishkeepers out there.>
<Another classic. While the fish room isn't as shiny modern as your
average Maidenhead Aquatics, the stuff in stock is, on most days, like
walking into a fish encyclopaedia. Probably my favourite store, and fish
Lambert is an excellent person to chat to with a wealth of contacts
among collectors and exporters.>
3. World of Water Crawley
<I find World of Water a bit hit-and-miss, being more pond- than
aquarium-oriented, but I don't know this particular branch at all.>
4. Maidenhead aquatics Farnham
<Have been to this one a couple times, and got some nice fish there.>
5. Crowder's aquatics (I know it happens to be 5 min.s from Farnham)
<Don't know this store at all.>
Then driving back up to Manchester.
<Quite a trip!>
Is there any other particularly good shops near any of these or on the
route you can recommend?
<Since you're driving, you might see if you can bag Maidenhead Aquatics
in St Albans. Supposedly the biggest branch in the chain, it's quite a
good one if you're into smaller oddballs like killifish and Rainbowfish.
Not cheap though, even by MA standards. There's also an MA branch a
couple minutes up the road from Wildwoods you might as well visit while
you're there. Some other day/trip, you might think about the East of
there are two MA branches in Peterborough (one in the city, the other in
Crowland; it's this second branch that is absolutely essential visiting
if you're into rare fish especially loaches. The WaterZoo in
Peterborough is another brilliant shop. In fact, if you wanted a shorter
day, I'd have no qualms about substituting those shops for the London
trip. Cheers, Neale.>
Tetra stocking-too many choices
Thanks in advance for your time. I have had a 20 gallon long with
fluorescent lighting set up for many years. It has been a peaceful
community tank. Due to some pretty intense circumstances in my life the
fish all dwindled away and it is now only home to a ridiculous amount of
cherry shrimp who apparently are thriving in this neglected planted
<Easy to trade in toward new livestock likely>
Now that things have settled down I have been able to purchase a
38 gallon bowfront LED lit tank. I set it up and it is
currently cycling with janitorial ammonia, I have hopefully fast tracked
this process by using a mucky (in a good way) filter cartridge from my
old tank and some rocks and plants and such. As of now the parameters of
the new tank are these:
Ammonia is reading at .25 however it comes out of the tap like that and
I treat with prime so I am thinking it may be an ammonium reading,
however I am waiting patiently, I know not to rush the cycle.
<Should be cycled w/ the NO2 and NO3 readings you're reporting... I
think the NH3/NH4OH reading may be spurious>
So I intend to move the entire shrimp brigade over, (any suggestions as
to how to get all the babies are appreciated) and break down the old 20
<Net out most all, drain water down and SLOWLY and carefully scoop out
gravel and place in the new system in scoop/batches>
I want to do a peaceful tetra tank. I love neons but don’t want to watch
them die from NTD. So I would like to do a few schools of tetras that
will work well. I live in Miami and there are “fish farms” here.
<Ah yes; how well do I know>
Basically giant cement outdoor tanks containing every fish you can
imagine, so my problem is this- I have too many choices and I don’t know
what to choose. The local fish farm has Rummynose, black neon, green
neon, ember and gold.
<All these are good choices and would mix; but I'd limit the arrangement
here to just two or three tetra species; add some catfish of choice,
perhaps a show specimen or two>
They have many more but I think I’ve narrowed it down to these. I would
appreciate any suggestions as to which ones would work together and how
<At least ten of each>
I’m assuming a few schools of 10 or 12 each. I really love the Rummynose
but I’m not sure they will work with my parameters and the others.
<Should. All have been raised in local water quality I assure you>
Any advice is appreciated, I have researched every tetra but I’m
overwhelmed by too many options/combinations. Thanks again for your
time! It’s very much appreciated!
<Thank you for sharing Marya. Please do send along your further
observations. Bob Fenner>
Re: Tetra stocking-too many choices
Thanks so much! Will keep you posted...
<Thank you. Hey have you heard/seen the Zamora Catfish,
Re: Tetra stocking-too many choices
I have not, but I’m going to check it out now!
<It's a beauty! A bit exotic, but does make its way into the petfish
trade on a punctuated basis. BobF>
Re: Tetra stocking-too many choices
Interesting. Will keep an eye out.
Re: Tetra stocking-too many choices
Ok Mr. Fenner I have a few follow-up questions....
I started moving the cherry shrimp over, assuming it will take a few
days to complete the process.
I went to the fish farm to get a plant and they had some black and white
striped bumblebee shrimp, I got 3. They told me they are very sensitive
but that they are ok with the cherries.
<S/b fine. Likely the same species. Like blondes/brunettes>
I checked wet web and in my haste couldn’t find a lot of info but I took
the chance. So far so good, any extra info on these would be
appreciated. So in the tetra choices I have, which ones are least likely
to bother the baby shrimp?
<All will eat the shrimp when they're very small; but some should
survive; and adults will be fine.>
I know there’s always a risk but in your opinion which are the best bet
Also I purchased a very large “mother” Amazon sword. It is so large it
has flowers and baby leaves growing off the top, so big I had to fold it
over to close the lid and this is a tall tank.
What do I do to make the babies? Hahaha sorry.
<Pinch them off and plant them separately; or bend the stem down and
plant it in the sand/gravel>
Thanks again, you are the best,
<Thank you for sharing Marya. BobF>
Re: Tetra stocking-too many choices
Great! Thanks again for your advice. I am still working on the process
of moving all the shrimp and the Nerite snail, once they settle in I
will head back to the farm for some tetras, I’ll keep you posted, thanks
<Glad to share your adventure! B>
Re: Tetra stocking-too many choices
Hi Mr. Fenner,
So the update on the process is this: I have most of the shrimp moved
over thanks to the help of my 11 year old daughter, who has taken the
task on due to the $3 paycheck upon completion.
<Ah, the ole profit motive eh?>
And so most are doing well, I have lost a few, not sure why, maybe just
the stress of the move since all parameters have remained steady.
I went to the fish farm and purchased 10 ember tetras and 10 gold
tetras. They have been acclimated and are all doing well and tend to
school as one big group. I was at first concerned about adding 20 fish
at once however I am keepers by a close eye and parameters are holding
So as I’m getting ready to leave the fish farm the owner approaches me
to show me the fish he just got in and he shows me the most beautiful
So my question is this: what are the chances I can add them to my tank?
<Likely very good; as long as they're not much smaller than the new
If I bump the temp slowly down to 77? He says they are locally raised so
that wouldn’t be an issue but if I bump the temp down to 77 will this
<Again; probably so>
Also if I that is a possibility is 6 enough or is more better?
<Six or more; yes>
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Re: Few questions; FW Stocking
Thanks for your reply
Next question my filter I’m currently running a Eheim 2217
do you think this unit is enough for my tank?
<An excellent filter.>
My tank is 5 foot x 2 foot x 1.2 feet w roughly about 540 litres
of water. I get really good flow is that how people judge if
the filter is the right size for the tank?
<So long as you have zero ammonia and zero nitrite, your filter is doing
fine, so far as filtering goes. If your fish are 'gasping' or otherwise
showing signs of oxygen stress, you may need additional water movement,
which could come from a second filter, airstone, or powerhead.>
Last question ha ha what would be the capacity for this tank?
I have currently
30 cardinal tetras
20 Rummynose tetras
18 Otocinclus catfish
6 red rainbows
4 dwarfs cichlids
3 Kuhli loaches
2 flying foxes
2 breeding Bristlenose catfish (normally a good sign)
And more than a few shrimps
Am I reaching the limit for this system? Or can I add more
<The old rule of "an inch per gallon" isn't bad. So this tank is about
140 US gallons, so about 140 "inches" of small fish (anything up to the
size of Guppies, say). Cardinals get to what, maybe 1.5 inches, so
that'd be over 90 Cardinal tetras! Plus or minus a bit for the fact some
of your fish quite a bit bigger than Guppies, your tank probably isn't>
What I would still like to add is
10 torpedo barbs
<If you mean Sahyadria denisonii, the Red Lined Torpedo Barb, these are
quite particular fish. They need clean, clear water with lots of oxygen
and -- crucially for long term success -- not too much heat. They're
probably more subtropical than tropical fish. But in any case, anything
above 25 C isn't to their liking, making them a poor choice for life
with Cardinal tetras, for example, which are true hothouse flowers. They
also prefer a bit more current than Cardinals, though on the other hand,
the habitat favoured by Otocinclus, Ancistrus, and Flying Foxes would be
pretty similar. Do note that Sahyadria denisonii can get pretty large
(maybe 10 cm in good conditions) and while a 540 litre tank would suit
them well, they are boisterous, even aggressive at times, and can
terrorise small, gentle species -- and may simply view shrimps as food.
On the other hand, they're perfectly fine with L-number catfish, robust
characins like Anostomus and Silver Dollars, and those sorts of fishes
able to handle themselves without actually causing trouble for no
10 cardinal tetras
<These two species mix very well, and almost interchangeably in terms of
Appreciate you help and thoughts on these man.
Community Tank setup 8/2/18
I am in the process of setting up a 50g tank, dimensions are 120cm L,
40cm W, 45cm D (this is the water depth, not the total tank depth) and I
wanted to check on the compatibility of my stocking list:
1 BN Pleco
3 Pearl Gourami's (1m/2f)
5 Bolivian Ram's
15 Serpae Tetra's - will these be too nippy for the pearls?
<Mmm; likely okay here; in this size grouping, system volume>
15 Espei Rasboras - will these be too fast for the pearls?
If the pearl's are not a good addition, then instead I will add the
Dwarf Gourami to the tank instead and not add Pearl Gourami's.
<A tough one (for me); I really like Trichogaster leeri, and Colisa
genus gouramis have been problematical (dying easily) the last
The water conditions will be approx. (based on a current smaller 10g
tank setup I already have):
Temp 26 degrees C
<Fine for all>
Filtration: Internal filter (600L/hr) and a second sponge filter
Tank setup: Sand substrate, lots of hidey holes for the rams, lots of
driftwood for the Pleco, floating plants for the gourami's and a couple
of large plants in the substrate.
I currently have a the BN Pleco and a Dwarf Gourami in the 10g tank,
hence upgrading to a larger size for the BN Pleco who will be
transferred to the 50g once it is up and running.
Many thanks for your help, Jo
<Thank you for sharing. Please do send along your further observations,
news of your progress. Bob Fenner>
Re: Community Tank setup 8/3/18
Thanks so much Bob for your feedback, Jo
<Welcome Jo. BobF>
Community Tank setup /Neale
I am in the process of setting up a 50g tank, dimensions are 120cm L, 40cm
W, 45cm D (this is the water depth, not the total tank depth) and I wanted
to check on the compatibility of my stocking list:
1 BN Pleco
<Gets along with anything.>
3 Pearl Gourami's (1m/2f)
<Usually very well behaved in spacious tanks. Odd specimens can be
aggressive though, so keep an eye open.>
5 Bolivian Ram's
<Another good pick, but I'd probably go with a pair or trio (1M, 2F). Two
mated pairs might squabble.>
15 Serpae Tetra's - will these be too nippy for the pearls?
<Avoid; yes, they're nippy, and rarely behave themselves in community
tanks. Other similar species are better, such as the somewhat larger
Bleeding Heart Tetras or the small, rather shy Rosy Tetras. Unfortunately
Serpae Tetras (Hyphessobrycon eques) have been regularly misidentified over
the years, and do get sold under other names, so do make sure you can
positively identify Rosy Tetras and other lookalike species (such as
Hyphessobrycon bentosi) before spending your money.>
15 Espei Rasboras - will these be too fast for the pearls?
<Generally very well behaved, so good companions for Gouramis.>
If the pearl's are not a good addition, then instead I will add the Dwarf
Gourami to the tank instead and not add Pearl Gourami's.
<Dwarf Gouramis are best avoided. They're not bad fish per se, but the
quality of farmed stock is poor, and viral diseases seem ubiquitous. Few
specimens last more than six months in captivity. In any case, small Gourami species are poor choices for life alongside dwarf cichlids, the two
often fighting, and the gouramis coming off worse.>
The water conditions will be approx. (based on a current smaller 10g tank
setup I already have):
Temp 26 degrees C
<This should suit a fair variety of community fish, so long as you avoid
those that need very soft or very hard water.>
Filtration: Internal filter (600L/hr) and a second sponge filter (600L/hr)
<Fine, but do avoid turbulent water flow if you're keeping gouramis.
Conversely, moderately brisk currents suit tetras and rasboras well.>
Tank setup: Sand substrate, lots of hidey holes for the rams, lots of
driftwood for the Pleco, floating plants for the gourami's and a couple of
large plants in the substrate.
<Nice, especially the use of floating plants. Indeed, I think you're
spot-on to add greenery "from the top down" in the form of things like
Indian Fern and Amazon Frogbit that have leaves and roots that trail down
nicely. With all that shade, your benthic plants will want to be reasonably
tolerant of subdued lighting, so things like Cryptocoryne species and
Anubias species would be my first picks.>
I currently have a the BN Pleco and a Dwarf Gourami in the 10g tank, hence
upgrading to a larger size for the BN Pleco who will be transferred to the
50g once it is up and running.
Many thanks for your help, Jo
<Most welcome, Neale.>
Re: Community Tank setup 8/4/18
Thanks for the great and speedy response,
I just wanted to ask your advice about one more possible community tank
setup. I also really like the German Blue Rams, so instead of stocking
Bolivian Rams, I was thinking about 5 GBR's instead (1m/4f) or could I
stock more than one male GBR?
<All varieties of Common Ram, Mikrogeophagus ramirezi, including German
Blue Rams, are best avoided. How to explain? For a start, the wild fish
lives in very hot, very soft water, and adapts poorly to anything else.
We're talking 28-30C/82-86F, 0-5 degrees dH, pH 6 as the basic
conditions required in the aquarium. Next up, the fish has been inbred
over generations to produced things like German Blues, and this may be
why they're so disease prone. Farms "juice" them with antibiotics to
enhance their colours and healthful appearance, but as the drugs wear
off, the fish start to sicken. Hexamita infections are extremely common,
especially in the wrong water chemistry and if nitrate creeps above,
say, 20 mg/l. While the odd specimen presumably makes it past six months
in the community tank, most seem not to. Bolivian Rams, Mikrogeophagus
altispinosus, are infinitely more hardy, and there are also one or two
Apistogramma species, notably Apistogramma cacatuoides, that I'd
recommend ahead of the Common
Ram. If I'm completely honest, I consider Rams to be junk fish of no
value to most hobbyists. They're cheap, they look nice, but they'll be
sick within weeks, so why bother?>
Also, would the temperature needed for the GBR's (I would set at 28
Degrees Celsius) be too high for the BN Pleco and tetra's?
<Correct; 28 C is acceptable for Gouramis and some tetras such as
Cardinals, but much too warm for standard Bristlenose Plecs -- though
suckermouth and L-number catfish species from Rio Xingu would adapt, as
would certain hothouse flower Corydoras such as Corydoras sterbai. That
said, mixing Corydoras with dwarf cichlids is risky, for the catfish
I read that Pearl Gourami's can cope with the higher temperatures, so
hopefully there shouldn't be an issue there...
Once again, many thanks for your help, Jo
<Glad to help. Neale.>
Re: Community Tank setup 8/4/18
Wow Neale, thank you for the advice, I have read several forums and this
is the first clear response that makes sense!
<Ah, well, glad to have helped.>
I also had a look at the Apistogramma you mentioned, we are able to get
Cockatoo cichlids here in NZ,
<Excellent. They're lovely fish. Slightly more delicate than the average
community fish, but hardly difficult. The main thing is avoid very hard
water and keep nitrate levels relatively low, ideally below 20 mg/l.>
and I think they are an amazing fish so I might do a bit more research
and have a think about stocking those instead of the Bolivian Rams.
<Cool. They have an interesting social life, so you might try keeping
more than one female alongside the male. Half coconut shells are really
useful caves for them if you place them on the ground like a dome, but
with a small mouse hole-shaped opening along the edge so the female can
get in. The male only goes in to fertilise the eggs, but otherwise
guards the territory while the female looks after the offspring. In fact
the female can become very defensive, chasing or even attacking the
male, so having multiple
females, each with their own coconut shell cave, works best for both
He'll fuss about over all the females' territories, and if you have some
robust target fish in the tank, such as Danios, they'll distract him a
bit, giving the females some peace. As a rule, the more different the
males and females look, the more distinct their roles in the
relationship. So unlike the broadly similar Rams and Bolivian Rams,
where males and females can be hard to tell apart, there's no danger
confusing male and female 'harem spawners' like Apistogramma!>
Once again thanks for your advice, Jo
<Most welcome. Neale.>
Re: Community Tank setup 8/6/2018
Thanks once again for all the advice Neale. I am now chatting with one
of the specialty fish shops in NZ about Rams and Apistos and what their
breeders can supply,
<Of course if I lived in NZ, I'd be keeping some of your amazing native
so will hopefully make a decision soon.
<Great! There are some other lovely Apistogramma species out there, some
more delicate than others, and assuming very small, gentle tankmates,
such as tetras, they can be used in community tanks.>
One last question, would Pearl Gourami's still be compatible in the tank
with Apistos and a target fish such as Danio's?
<If the tank is sufficiently big (and deep) that the Apistogramma at the
bottom and the Gouramis and Danios at the top don't meet, then sure,
<Most welcome. Neale.>
(Re) Stocking 105 Gallon; FW comm.
Dear WetWebMedia Crew,
As you recall last year, an accident wiped out most of my fish. I've since
restocked some of the fish, but I am unsure of what else to
add...currently I have six striped silver dollars, one female blue acara, two
weather loaches, ten giant Danios, and one panda Garra.
<These are more or less robust fish in terms of personality, so whatever choices
you make, they will need to be bold rather than nervous or shy, and at least not
obviously bite-sized or fin-nippable.>
I'm thinking of adding one more larger fish or a school of small (giant-Danio
sized) fish. Here are my options.
1. Some form of smaller Botia. Since I lost my pair of clown loaches, the
Malaysian trumpet snail population in the tank has gone up. I added 10 assassin
snails a few months ago, but they haven't really been able to keep up. My LFS
claims loaches would consume the snails at a faster rate, but I am reluctant to
add a fish just to control them. I am concerned if I ever have to medicate the
tank, the snails will die and wipe out my water quality with them. Is this
likely in a 105 gallon?
<Malayan Trumpet Snails have no real impact on water quality either way.
They're unlikely to die all of a sudden -- they're really tough animals, and
'make for the surface' when stressed, so it's very obvious if they're unhappy.
Furthermore, they are first-rate scavengers (better than any catfish) and aerate
the substrate. So they can have a slightly beneficial aspect in certain
environments, such as tanks with deep sandy substrates.
No fish eats them reliably; they're just too tough shelled and too deep
burrowing, so don't buy any fish on the assumption they'll control Melanoides
populations! Much better to understand their numbers go up and down with food
availability, and in a well maintained, clean aquarium their numbers should be
low enough to be trivial.>
2. A male acara. The female was part of a mated pair, and I really miss their
pair-bond behaviors. However, I'm concerned that since the new male won't have
grown up together with the female, he'll just bully her. Is this worth trying?
<Try, yes; expect it to work, not a chance. Exactly as you suggest, there's a
chance the pair won't bond, especially if the female isn't 'in condition' for
spawning. Your best bet is to get a small, young male who can't physically
bother her. As he matures, he'll be better able to assert himself, and she'll
have switched into a more receptive mood by then. Even then, have a plan B ready
if they need to be separated.>
3. A school of red-blue Columbian tetras. The male silver dollars have long
tassels on their fins so I am concerned about nipping.
<Assuming these aren't some fancy version of the Silver Dollar with ridiculously
long fins, the standard, 'red fin Metynnis' type will easily hold its own in a
large aquarium with Columbian Tetras. They're pretty
similar in terms of behaviour, with both species apt to nip other fish if kept
in too-small a group or alongside very slow-moving, long-finned tankmates like
Angels and Guppies. Both have hearty appetites as well, though Columbian Tetras
are more obviously insect-eating carnivores compared with the meat-and-two-veg
omnivorous diet of the Silver Dollars.>
4. Some form of Rainbowfish (say dwarf neons or Boesemanni). Will they be okay
with silver dollars or do they require live plants and/or cooler temperatures?
<Dwarf Neon Rainbows are a little delicate, so I'd approach those with some
degree of caution. But the bigger Rainbows tend to be quite robust, particularly
the riverine species with wide geographical ranges.
Melanotaenia boesemanni is a cracking species, and the farmed specimens are
pretty adaptable. Wild fish (or even F1 captive bred) specimens are even more
brilliantly coloured, but more expensive and a bit more demanding. I'd also look
at a Glossolepis incisus as an interesting colour contrast to the silver and
blue fish you already have, and don't forget an old time favourite, Melanotaenia
splendida, a very variable species with all sorts in the trade. It's easy to
keep, ridiculously adaptable, so a good choice for casual fishkeepers.>
...It's also okay if you think I should just not add any more fish. That's fine
<Oh, I think you could fit a couple schools of any of the species suggested
here; 105 gallons is a lot of space for what is a medium-sized fish community,
provided filtration is adequate.>
<You're welcome, Neale.>
Re: (Re) Stocking 105 Gallon 7/2/18
Thanks for the advice. There are a LOT of the Malaysian trumpet snails judging
by the empty shells, but I think I can drop their numbers by cutting the
vegetables I give the fish into smaller pieces (they really like the bits the
fish don’t eat).
<Yes, this is exactly how you control Melanoides. Remove those you can see as
often as practical; reduce the amount of food they have to eat through cleaning
the substrate and careful feeding of your fish. Contrary to popular myth,
Melanoides cannot break the laws of physics -- their numbers are not self
maintaining, but vary (as with any other animal) on the amount of food
I’m not sure how I can tell apart an immature male blue acara from a female one
(these are the selectively bred electric blue type which is brightly colored in
both sexes) but if I end up with two females they should get along, correct?
<In theory, yes. But keep an eye on them.>
The female blue acara I have is a lot less bold then she was before I lost her
mate in the accident so I hope I can at least get her to stop sulking.
The silver dollars I have are adults of the “tiger striped” variety (Metynnis
fasciatus) and the males have an enlarged ray on the dorsal and anal fin. It
doesn’t trail like the fins on a Gourami or angelfish though.
Thanks for everything,
<Most welcome. Neale.>
Adding fish 11/7/17
So, we had an incident. The week before Canadian Thanksgiving weekend, I noticed
a dripping leak.
I think it was at the bottom of the tank, but not quite sure. After scouring
Kijiji and the like with no results, I ended up buying a new 45 gallon tank and
stand on clearance.
<Nice size tank.>
I had intended to rehome fish, but several students upset, so....I purchased
what was needed to restart.
Went from 40 gallon cube like tank to 45 gallon long tank.
<A much better shape, plus more water capacity! Sounds a definite upgrade.>
We used as much water as we could from the original tank.
<Neither here nor there, really. Assuming the water chemistry and temperature
are kept about the same, may as well use conditioned tap water.
On the other hand, do try and keep as much biological filter media as possible,
because that's where the 'good' bacteria are.>
All 11 silver tip tetras survived. It is now November 4th. Now looking to add
corys and one Bristlenose Pleco.
Originally the tetras stayed in mid-upper level of cube tank. This changed
before aquarium change. They go everywhere; up, down, middle.
I suspect I only have a couple of female tetras.
<So get some more! This tank will easily house, say, 20 of the Tetras, 6-8
Corydoras, and 2-3 Bristlenose Plecs without any problems at all. Maybe not add
them all at once, but across a month, that'd be fine.>
I attached picture because I am not sure if enough cover is available for Corys.
<They'll be fine. For sure they prefer sand to gravel, but your gravel looks
smooth. I'd avoid the hothouse flower species such as Corydoras sterbai, but
most of the other species are good at the 22-25 C temperature range Bristlenose
The Stump has multiple entries at bottom and from top, but tetras enjoy too. The
barrel has multiple entrances; but for one, tetras not really interested.
<Indeed. Tetras like floating vegetation for shade, but caves not so much.>
Bridges for cover- but tetras zoom there too. Do have extra bridge- no space.
The brick wall is an inside wall (other side, stage, gym). On previous aquarium
I put aquarium picture; still budgeting with this one. Is the environment good
for Corys....if so, how many and what type...
<Looks a great home! Corydoras aeneus is a good default species, undemanding and
cheap. Corydoras panda, Corydoras julii, and Corydoras trilineatus are some
other species that might be considered. They're a little less hardy, but easily
maintained in mature tanks where the water isn't too hard. I'm also a fan of
Brochis species, such as Brochis splendens, which look a lot like big, stocky
Corydoras aeneus and do especially well in deep aquaria. Corydoras don't really
like swimming upwards more than 30 cm/12 inches, especially if the water current
strong. Cheers, Neale.>
LFS is doing a huge import... opinions? Hard/soft water on
wild collected fishes 11/4/17
Hello crew, I hope you are doing well.
<Thank you Roberto; yes>
As the title implies, a lfs is doing a huge import of south American
fish. The list consists of more than 40 species of fish.
I, as the enthusiast that I am, want to get my hands on some fish, but,
judging by past experiences with soft water fish kept in hard water (my
water is normally 10 GH, 9 KH, ph anything from 7.5 to 7.9). Decided to
ask you first on input on whether the species I plan to get can adapt in
this kind of water. After all, some soft water fish do adapt to
moderately hard water, but a lot don't.
<Yes; agreed. Tienes razon>
There is not much information online on these fish. I do not know if
these fish are wild specimens or captive bred, and the lfs is not to
trust with this information (they claim their altums were bred and
raised in alkaline water...., even simple concepts like ph get tangled
in their lies).
The list of fish I am interested in are:
1- Biotodoma Cupido
3-a few, rare Corydoras species like concolor (well, those are a first
4- Panda Uarus (I find this hard to believe)
<The cichlids of #s 4,5,6 coming from soft/native waters concern me...
The others I have seen/occasioned in harder waters. ALL I'd leave at the
dealers for a few weeks to assure they're going to live>
I am sorry to put you through this, but you are probably the only safe
source of information. I obviously wouldn't get all these fish even if I
could, and I run several tanks for each of them (planted tanks for the
tetras and cories... cichlid tanks for the cichlids... and so). I'm
mostly concerned about the whole hard water adaptability.
Thanks again, crew.
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Re: LFS is doing a huge import... opinions?
Hello crew, hope you are doing fine.
<Thank you Roberto; yes>
Weird, i cant find the response you gave to this mail... well, i am also
forwarding the past message just for context.
<Is posted (I do this) in a couple places; here is one:
the import came a few days later after i messaged you, and fast forwards a
couple weeks, here's what's happened.
No Biotodoma cupido (bummer).
10 H. psittacus brought in, about 15 cm the smallest one... whew, i wasn't
expecting fish this big to come.... Didn't get any... yet, they all look full
and have started to show colors at the lfs... only 3 bought so far, not likely
buying one, they were brought bigger than i expected, likely displaying
aggression at this size.
8 Uaru fernandezyepezi came in... they looked very weak and distressed. They are
between 3 and 4 inches, one kicked the bucket at the lfs... 2 have been bought.
Still 5 left which have seemingly got in better shape since. They still don't
look totally well though, they are kept with silver dollars and a couple bulldog
Plecos in a 15 gal or so aquarium... this is at the lfs... the price is
surprisingly low... $14 each!! I mean, these guys are supposed to be expensive
<Can be; depending on where, size, and actual species>
I'm assuming they are tank bred in that case... if... given a couple weeks more,
and see if they are any better... would it be more or less safe to buy a couple?
the price is unfairly tempting. I have some wood that is leaching tannins and
have access to almond leaves. My tap water pH is commonly between 7.7 and 8.1
and kH is around 9. I'm not sure how low i can get these parameters with just
wood and almond leaves.
<I'd mix in softer water, reverse osmosis... to lower the pH below 7.0>
Not sure if it is worth it since the parameters may reset when i do water
changes, which could potentially be fatal as they would be sudden.
Do you think it is worth the risk of trying a couple of them in a species tank?
<If it were me; yes>
Among other fish of my interest are about 10 or so varieties of Plecos. Being a
Pleco collector, i bought an adult pair of Ancistrus ranunculus... they are
about 10 cm already, one with very big and bushy bristles while the other one
has small and fewer... so I'm assuming i sexed them correctly. Many other
Plecos, true zebras even (not paying the $200 tag though). some Panaque
varieties, Hemiloricaria sp, some that look like randomized but yet similar
patterns and colors of Peckoltia sabaji, so I'm assuming there a few, related
species among them.
<Am a huge fan of Loricariids>
Is there any Pleco species i should be wary of, considering my water parameters?
<Any from soft, acidic water habitats (I'd use Fishbase.org here) that are
i have a small but healthy collection of Plecs and have had trouble with not a
single species, yet.
Many other species, not many i can house/have interest in right now. Pikes, Ossa
knife fish, red bellied piranha, Apistogramma (learned to stay away from Apistos
a long time ago, until i get R/O water, at least), altums. etc.
As always, thanks for your time, it always gets me excited when exotic fish get
<Me too! Bob Fenner>
classroom aquarium; stkg 8/25/17
I bought a 40 gallon aquarium set up on Kijiji. Previous owner had
goldfish. Came with everything, plus cabinet.
I replaced the filter with same type (Aquaflow 50), and bought a new
heater. I let the tank cycle for 2 weeks in the classroom. I’m a
beginner and need hardy fish.
I really wanted an aquarium with community fish. The original plan was
to put in Harlequins, and a bit later 3 Cory's, and a bristle nose
<All good choices, but I would start with the Corydoras. Get six of one
species. Ideally, Bronze or Peppered Corydoras as they're the two
I did not realize that the Harlequins are hard to come by here and
according to one knowledgeable person, not a fish for a brand new tank.
<Not for brand new tanks, no; but after a couple months, they'd be
Poor on the spot research on my part resulted in the purchase of 11
silver tip tetras yesterday. I say poor research, because I did not
realize how aggressive they can be...
<Tetras and Barbs are a mixed bag. In large groups most are fine,
especially if you keep them with other active fish. But many are
unpredictable in small groups, and some will nip at slow-moving or
long-finned fish (such as Angels, Gouramis, Guppies and Bettas).>
I had not considered that species and did a quick search and the sites I
checked quickly, yup peaceful community fish.
After seeing the activity level in the tank, and realizing these are not
like the neon tetras in our tank when I was young,
<I would avoid Neons.>
I did more research and now know that they can be very nippy and be
aggressive, especially regarding food.
<Kind of, sort of. No threat at all to your catfish, which eat entirely
different things (algae wafers and sinking catfish pellets). Also fine
with other active tetras, barbs, Rasboras, Danios and minnows. But they
will snatch food from slow-moving things, like the Angels, Bettas, etc.
Today, they were very active and wow, wow, they really liked feeding
time. It was amazing to watch the action. They continually explore their
environment and are very active. I know they will be both interesting
and calming. I will do my best to make sure they do well.
<Cool. Take care not to overfeed. It's tempting to do so when fish are
active and fun. But if the tank is new, and after two weeks almost
certainly not "cycled" yet, feed very small amounts, and only if ammonia
is zero. How did you cycle the tank? Just sitting the tank for two weeks
does nothing! It does need a source of ammonia to 'feed' the bacteria
and coax them into multiplying. Let's assume this is a non-cycled tank,
and feed the fish accordingly. I would feed no more than one pinch every
other day, and if ammonia was above 0.5 mg/l, I would not feed at all
that day AND do a 50% water change. If you can, seed the tank with
gravel from a mature aquarium, or better yet, get some live media from
an established aquarium. Floating aquarium plants are a another useful
tool, seeding the tank with filter bacteria AND using up ammonia as they
However, I’m not sure what to do in the future. I did rinse all the
gravel that had been previously used, but had to really scrub one rock
coral decoration free of algae. I read that you would recommend 5 or 6
Cory catfish together and that, with cover, and their “school”, they
will do Ok with silver tips.
<Absolutely. But DO NOT add any more fish for at least 3-4 weeks. It'll
take that long for the tank to cycle, assuming these tetras are doing
the cycling for you.>
There are rock formations, two live plants* and 3 artificial cloth
plants. The tank is taller than it is wide. I say that there are 2 live
plants because they are experiments. I didn’t put a substrate in....
<Floating plants don't need one, and neither do epiphytes (such as Java
fern, Java moss, and Anubias).>
So, question one- should I put the plants in pots, or leave in gravel?
<A personal choice. I currently keep plants in terracotta pots filled
with aquarium soil, sand, and some gravel on top. This tank has a big
catfish that otherwise uproots plants. You can also fill the pots with
aquarium gravel instead of sand and soil, but use plant fertiliser
pellets pushed into the gravel every month to ensure the plants get all
the minerals they need. In short, plants in pots work as well in fish
tanks as they do on windowsills. But most aquarists prefer to put plants
in a gravel bed at least 8 cm/3 inches deep because it looks more
realistic. Again, fertiliser pellets can be used to feed the plants,
though advanced aquarists often use special aquarium soils and
substrates instead, topping it off with gravel just for looks and
tidiness. Some plants come in plastic pots with rockwool inside them.
These can be buried in the gravel, and some plants do okay in them,
spreading out of the pots by themselves. Vallisneria and Cryptocoryne
are two groups that seem to do perfectly well like this. Other plants
are fussier, like Anubias and Java Fern, which will both rot eventually
if trapped in pots under the gravel, and should be immediately removed
from their pots and attached to rock or wood above the gravel.
Aponogeton species generally don't like their 'corm' in the gravel, but
their roots should be, so some tweaking may be necessary if you try
these hardy, but basically annual, plants. So basically, each plant is
different, and some will be fine in pots, others will not... read up on
what's for sale locally, and act accordingly.>
Question 2, and on. I know if I were to even try Cory fish, more cover
<Not really. Corydoras are fish from shallow streams. They root about on
sand, in leaf litter, and so on. They don't need thick vegetation as
such, but some hiding places, such as tangles of bogwood roots, are a
plus. I'd avoid (narrow) hollow ornaments though as they sometimes get
stuck in them and drown (they breathe air, as you probably know).
Vallisneria is a good default plant for most tanks, quickly spreading if
conditions are even halfway decent, and the thickets formed will be used
by Corydoras for hiding places. That said, if kept in big groups, these
catfish aren't shy at all.>
The tank is taller than it is wide. The tetras are mid to top tank
almost always, never massing at the bottom. I can go with more
artificial or live plants (we’ll see how the 1st 2 do), or provide
hiding materials, hollowed out areas. I have the same concern as a
person already posted. I don’t think the Cory's can stand their ground
and take food from these tetras.
<Feed the Corydoras at night, using sinking foods. One algae wafer about
the size of your thumbnail will feed a small group of 5-6 catfish
perfectly well, and such a wafer could be used no more than 3 times a
Suggestions on providing cover, in this tall tank or feeding tricks, or
are Cory’s not a good idea, in which case another bottom cleaner will be
<There is no such thing as a "bottom cleaner". It's a marketing myth,
really. Any fish you add to the tank increases the waste. Furthermore,
if there's enough leftover food for some catfish, you're overfeeding
your tetras, and most of that uneaten food will actually end up in the
filter, becoming ammonia. By all means keep catfish or loaches, but on
their own terms, not as cleaners. Likewise "algae eaters", which may eat
some algae, but by adding to the nitrate and phosphate in the aquarium,
they actually speed up the growth of algae too. Nerite snails are
probably the best algae eaters, not catfish.>
There was feeding frenzy today; the tetras are eager for their food
flakes, but still messy eaters. The submissive would dart in underneath
or between, but still...some flakes fell to the bottom, and the tetras
dropped down the tank to follow the food. Is a bristle nose Pleco a good
<An outstanding choice. By far the best of the algae-eating catfish
traded. Others are either too big (Common Plecs), too delicate
(Otocinclus), or have specialist requirements (Panaque for example,
which are more herbivores than algae-eaters).>
Other Plecos I have seen have outgrown tanks, so I’m
<Bristlenose Plecs, and other Ancistrus species, only get to about 12
cm/5 inches, often less. Excellent additions to community tanks, and if
you get a pair, they'll likely breed, the fathers looking after the fry
extremely well, so much so that some fry will survive even in busy
I’m pretty sure I know the answer, but looking long term, I’m thinking
Harlequins are not a good choice for this tank?
<They are a good choice, but only when the tank is mature. Give it a
couple months. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: classroom aquarium
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge.
I wish I had consulted you first.
I was told to wait on the Cory's by a few people; I wish I had done this
differently, but now I think have good advice and know how to go
Thank you for the feeding suggestion (I did wonder).
I will look for floating plants and monitor ammonia more carefully. I
will also investigate plants available, because the ones I put in
probably need much more than I am giving them.
<It is a fact that aquarium shops often sell plants that are NOT aquatic
and will inevitably die, such as 'wheat plant' and 'dragon bamboo'. Do
see here for the full list...
Often cheap and attractive, these plants have no chance at all of
living, and eventually die, polluting the tank. They're usually
houseplants, and do fine in pots! Some aquarium plants are simply
demanding, needing strong
light, CO2 fertilisation, and/or a special substrate to do well.
Hygrophila for example is a smashing plant, but needs strong light.
Pretty much anything pale green or pink will be a high light intensity
plant. Your best bets for casual fishkeeping are two floating plants
(Indian fern and Amazon Frogbit), the epiphytes you grown on rock or
wood (Anubias, Java fern, or Java moss), and a few adaptable rooted
plants (the hardy Amazon swords, in particular Echinodorus osiris and
Echinodorus Ozelot, most Vallisneria, a few Cryptocoryne species
including C. wendtii and C. beckettii, and Aponogeton spp. if you treat
them as disposable -- their corms needing to be 'overwintered' which
isn't hard but most folks don't bother).>
I will add java moss, we had them in with our 2 Bettas at home (Bettas
not together) and they are easy, easy care plants. Thanks again.
<Java moss are good plants, but hopeless for controlling algae in
larger, brighter tanks. They can sometimes become messy and rot in tanks
with catfish that stir up silt, so position them somewhere away from
where the catfish mostly forage for best results. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: classroom aquarium
Thanks for the info. I am going to definitely pull out one of the plants
tomorrow; it was obviously a poor choice and is losing its green-ness.
<Feel free to send a photo if you need to know what the plant is/was.>
The other I will leave for now; although it is on your OK list, it will
likely go too. I now have suggestions on what will actually work best.
For us, simple is most definitely best, so thank you again for sharing
knowledge and more importantly, practical advice.
I am very annoyed with myself because I did want swords, but there were
none available within 40 minutes. I let myself be convinced that these
plants would be OK....lesson learned.
<Not all Amazon Swords are equal! Some are more finicky than others. Do
check the variety on sale. The one sold loose is usually Echinodorus
bleheri, and it's a fairly easy species to keep with at least moderate
light. Other varieties are distinctly more demanding, particularly the
dwarf varieties and those with red, rather than green, leaves. All
Amazon Swords are heavy "feeders" in terms of their roots, so in plain
gravel or pots, they will need fertiliser pellets now and again. Also
remember only the roots go in the gravel, never anything green. The best
approach is to
partially bury the roots, and err on the side of having the tops of the
roots exposed. The plant can then sort itself out. If you bury the green
parts, the leaves tend to get damaged. Vallisneria is the same.>
Will the tetras be OK with artificial silk plants for now?
<Yes. Unless you're keeping a herbivorous fish that needs to eat
greenery, fish couldn't care less about the type of plants used -- real,
silk or plastic is all good to them.>
Now it is crunch time for us and to adequately research/find the best
plants suggested is going to be tricky.
<Plenty of websites, plus several good books. I happen to like "Aquarium
Plants (Mini Encyclopedia Series for Aquarium Hobbyists)" by Peter
Hiscock, which is easy to read and aimed at casual aquarists, full of
ideas, and available cheaply from all the usual online bookshops (under
$4 on Amazon.com, for example). Cheers, Neale.>
Fish suggestions 8/18/17
I would like to ask few questions about my fish and the aquarium.
I want to buy an aquarium about 30 gallons
<A superb size for a starter tank. Big enough for large schools of
social fish, plus a couple of specimen fish such as Angels or Gouramis,
without worrying about overstocking. But not so large it'll be expensive
and challenging to maintain.>
and will put peppered Cory fish in it to help clean the aquarium and its
<Peppered Corydoras are excellent catfish, but do prefer slightly cooler
water than most tropicals; indeed, they can do fine in unheated tanks if
the room is warm enough! Aim for fish happy at 22-25 C/72-77 F, and the
Peppered Catfish will be happy.>
Also I want to keep a hardy small schooling fish with the Cory.
<Plenty of options. At the low-end tropical temperatures, things like
Neons, White Cloud Mountain Minnows, Danios (don't mix with the Minnows
though, as they bully them), Red Phantom Tetras, Black Phantom Tetras,
Harlequin Rasboras, and Golden Barbs will all be at their optimal living
conditions. Swordtails and Platies also prefer cooler water, though they
don't really school as such, the males being a bit feisty, so best kept
in groups where female outnumber males, ideally by 2 to 1. Most
Loricariid catfish like slightly cool water too, including Otocinclus
Really, what you're doing is avoiding those "hothouse flowers" such as
Angels, most Gouramis, Cardinals and a few other species that do need
plenty of heat to be happy.>
Can you give me a list of fish types that can live with peppered catfish
and be able to support the Corys requirements such as (the pH level,
temperature, and so on.) I've read that peppered catfish lives in a pH
<Farmed Peppered Catfish are not at all fussy about water chemistry.
Provided the water isn't too soft or too hard, they'll be fine; 2-20
degrees dH, pH 6-8 is fine. Corydoras generally are adaptable, but what
they don't like are high temperatures, bullying tankmates, and very deep
water (don't make them swim more than 30 cm/12 inches to gulp air or
they'll be stressed, even drown). A soft, sandy substrate (smooth silica
sand, also called pool filter sand, is the ideal; avoid sharp sands
often sold for planted aquaria).>
I haven't kept a fish before, but I know a lot about fish and their
requirements. Also I did a huge research about many kinds of fish and I
will keep doing that.
<You're making lots of good decisions already, so well done! Peppered
Corydoras are tough enough for ideal first fish, Pearl or Zebra Danios
being equally hardy and good first fish. I'd also avoid the "serial
offenders" when it comes to healthcare and/or social problems like
fin-nipping -- Dwarf Gouramis, Ram Cichlids, Neon Tetras, Serpae Tetras,
Petticoat/Black Widow Tetras, Tiger Barbs.>
Any suggestions please.
<Let me direct you to some reading, here...
But if you want to discuss further, feel free to email us with some
options of stuff you've seen on sale!>
Looking forward to hear from you.
P.s. I really like to know about all types of animals and
nature. That's my hobby ( to do research about all animals).
<Fish tanks are what got me into studying zoology at university.
They're a great tool for understanding many aspects of biology, from how
filters work (nutrient cycling) through algae control (eutrophication
and primary productivity), not to mention how different fishes are
related (systematics) and how they interact (ethology). Have fun!
Fish Tank Stocking 8/10/17
<Howdy...Earl here this morning.>
I have a 20 Gallon tank which I think I have been having for
almost a year now. I have lost many fish and (touch wood) the ones that are now
kind of happy in the tank are
<Job One is determining the hows and whys of what killed the other
fish...otherwise you're just rolling the dice, as it were.>
1. 1 ID shark( 6 - 12 inches)
2. 2 Blood Parrot (One Medium sized and one a little smaller)
3. 2 Kirin Parrot (albino) I think..
4. 2 Tin foil barbs (1 big and 1 small)
I would just like to know your advise on whether the tank is rightly stocked or
any changes are required..
<In my opinion, a 12" fish in a tank that size is a no-go in any event. The
barbs will be ok but that's probably too many parrots as they also get pretty
large and due to the way they have been bred, their mouths are not
well equipped for competing with faster, more assertive fish when competing for
food. More detail on your previous inhabitants, your water conditions such as
temperature, lighting, test kit readings, are necessary to make any statements
other than that it seems overstocked size-wise and I expect that you may have
lost parrots before, yes? Hope this helps but more info is needed. -Earl>
Thanks and regards,
Re: Fish Tank Stocking 8/10/17
Thanks for getting back.
These were the only 4 parrots that I have had.
I had added other fish..I had bought a pair of small powder blue cichlids
recently and lost both of them..no signs of disease was found. Just found them
dead one fine morning..
<Aggressive fish, possibly stress out or harmed each other or other fish in the
Same was the case with a pair of Blue Dolphin fish. They were perfectly fine for
a couple of weeks and then died due to a power outage that lasted for half a
<Why did the power outage kill them? Temperature drop from the heater shutting
off? Very unfortunate but sadly many of us have been in the same boat.>
I had 4 ID sharks earlier and lost three of them to a power outage.
Thanks and regards,
Community Tank Stocking Question. Cichlids... Rams, some
This is my first time writing as I have always been able to find answers
to my questions after doing a bit of digging through your site, you guys
have great info and have been incredibly helpful. OK so, I recently got
back into the hobby and almost immediately fell in love with the
Electric Blue Ram. I had a rather large one that was killed by an
Electric Blue Jack Dempsey when I first started my 30 gal tank.
<Oh yes; incompatible>
I have since learned my lesson on adding fish to my tanks without doing
my research, RIP Ray, you were a
good fish :'( I have had 4 juvenile EBR, 1 Gold Ram, 1 Bolivian Ram, an
assortment of Rasboras, 5 Threadfin Rainbow's, and 2 Bristlenose
(1M 1 F) in my 30 gal tank for sometime now and everything had been
great. I knew however I would need to upgrade or trade in a few rams in
the future once the juvenile EBR's got a little bigger, then I saw and
fell in love with the Black Ghost Knife. Through reading your site I
know my newest tank (55 gal, established 2-3 months ago) will only be a
temporary housing for my BGK when I get him/her (planned for the very
near future) and with the proper set up it can live peacefully with at
least a few of the EBR and some of my other community fish.
<Yes; likely for a few to several years>
I of course do not intend on keep the Rasboras in with the BGK, (unless
I want them to become tasty snacks, haha) and was planning on keeping 2
EBR (recently lost 2 due to a heater malfunction, sad), 3 Threadfin
Rainbow (lost 2 to the heater), 5 Neon Dwarf Rainbow, 3 Black Neon, 1
Orange Van Rio (lost the others to the same heater malfunction), and 1
Bristlenose Pleco in the 55 gal tank with the BGK. Everyone has been
added to the tank and are currently cohabiting happily (Rasboras are in
55 for now but will be moved back to the 30gal when the BGK arrives) and
I have very few worries about the mix until Mr./MRS BGK outgrows everyone
in which case I'll have a much larger tank ready for the big weirdo
(and/or move everyone else to a different tank for their safety).
So my question/s are/is I found 2 new (to me) species during my weekly
rounds to the LFS and am struggling finding info on their compatibility
with my current set ups. (BTW: 30 gal currently holds 1 Gold Ram, 1
Bolivian Ram, and 1 juvenile Longfin Bristlenose Pleco - but I am not
partial to the gold or Bolivian ram and can easily re-home them. They're
cool dudes, just not my favorites). Could you tell me anything about the
likely hood or possibility of a single Leleupi, and/or a (pair?) of
Kribensis working out in either tank with my current crew?
<Mmm; yes; though these are easier-going African Cichlids, I would not
mix them w/ the Rams... Get too much larger, and too likely to harass
the S. Americans>
I've gotten mixed reviews from several sources and after losing Ray to
the Jack Dempsey I'd like something a little more definitive before
pulling the trigger. If neither are something that would work with what
I have going on currently so be it, the BGK will be moved to a larger
tank before I know it and I'll need something to do with the 55gal...
also, what's one more tank, right?
I really appreciate the time you're taking to answer my questions, I've
been searching for HOURS and cannot find it on my own.
You guys rock!
P.S. Both the 30 gal and the 55 gal are planted with driftwood, rocks,
fine gravel, over the tank filters (I forget the brand but can find it
if important), and heaters of course (properly functioning heaters!). I
plan to include hideouts/tubes to the 55 gal soon but am holding off
until the BGK arrives, I want to add them right when I add him/her to
throw the EBRs off their game a bit ;) the 30gal has a bunch of hideouts
already but I can easily add, remove, or completely revamp if needed.
Also both tanks are set up on a LED Zet light, LOVE my Zetlight system
:) 30 gal has some plants that demand a little more light but 55 is set
up with all low light plants (ik the BGK prefers low light, I want to
provide natural hiding places within the plants while making it a
comfortable environment. The
plants are just about tall enough now they're starting to shade out the
bottom of the tank in the section I plan for the BGK. It's almost ready,
finally!) and my handy dandy controller makes it easy to adjust light on
each tank individually. Thanks again for your help and please let me
know if you need any additional information,
<The Africans could be housed with each other, but even then... they'd
make better displays as "species only" set ups.
Threadfin Acara Kept Alone? FW stkg.
Hi guys and gals! You've been so helpful in the past that I would like
to ask for your advice. Last year I was running 15 tanks of various
sizes and species in my very small home. This was completely
overwhelming once the thrill of setting up and stocking the tanks was
over. After a lot of stress and time, I currently have 3 tanks left. And
I will hopefully be down to 2 permanently within the next 6 weeks. The
day after tomorrow I will be rehoming all of my African cichlids, my 2
full-grown S. eupterus (which I am very upset about), and a turquoise
Hemichromis from my 75 gallon. I will be planning on keeping this 75
gallon tank as well as my 40 breeder tank (housing my very spoiled B.
splendens and 5 Amano shrimp which are amazingly fascinating to watch).
Although everything that I have read says
that my Eupterus are more than fine in my 75 gallon, I feel that they
are cramped and also feel that they produce a lot of waste in the tank,
so I believe I have no choice but to give them up if I want to stock
much else in with them, unfortunately.
<How big are these... Synodontis?>
I had wanted to get a veil tailed A. ocellatus, because I find them to
be the perfect combination of beauty and
personality. But, regardless of filtration, I think a 75 gallon, with no
plans to upgrade, would not be ideal.
<One should be fine here>
I have learned my lesson in buying fish with the "I'll get a bigger tank
for them later" (best intentioned) justification, only to have to rehome
<You are correct here; very common. Or worse, not upgrading-sizing>
So I had been contemplating what to keep in my 75 gallon that would be
fair to the fish at adult size, and create a very minimal stocking list
for me, when I came across a gorgeous albino A. haeckeli for sale.
<Is a fab species>
While I am confident that the tank size is good, I have found very
little information on them (after much research), and most of it
conflicting. I have read that they don't do well when kept as singletons
in a tank but they are aggressive towards conspecifics.
<Not so bad if, where crowded; more females than males>
I would only want one, but would not want him/her to be skittish, even
though I realize that I'm not going to get a wet pet personality from
this type of fish. I also don't want a group of dithers, as I would like
to keep stocking minimal. I would like to keep my Hemichromis, if at all
possible, because she has always been miserable with my Africans,
currently she would be rehomed with them, which makes me nervous.
<These cichlids should get along together here.... AND the Synodontis in
I have also always wanted a S. casuarius. I know that these are all very
different and don't make much sense together (except maybe the
Hemichromis and casuarius), but how incompatible do you think they are?
<Likely to get along if started large enough, relative to the other
A single Threadfin Acara, a single Buffalohead Cichlid, and a single
Jewel Cichlid, with 4x canister filtration and 10× once my 55 gallon
Rainbowfish tank gets rehomed in a 75 gallon, could it work?
<I give you good odds here>
If not, could the Jewel and the Acara live together? If not, could the
Acara live alone in the tank?
<Yes and yes>
My main concern is water temperature. My pH and hardness are almost
neutral with slight acidity adding with water aging, but I do frequent
PWC and clean filters once every 6 weeks.
<I'd change 10-20% of the water out here every two weeks; perhaps every
week. Bob Fenner>
Re: Threadfin Acara Kept Alone? 2/7/17
Hi Bob, thank you for the very quick reply, it helps me greatly, as my rehoming
decisions need to be made by tomorrow. The female Synodontis is about 8"
and the male is about 7" although much skinnier than the female.
It may be possible that they look crowded because of the amount of rockwork I
keep in the tank for the Africans or because a 75 gallon just doesn't seem like
a large tank to me? Although, they definitely have their own territories, so
very minimal squabbling. I'm so glad to hear about the Hemi, because she
absolutely hates the Mbuna and I have felt bad about that for quite some time.
<Mmm; well; not to be (too) political; but most Mbuna are like Trump>
The Oscar idea, although I think would be okay as well, I feel would be much
better in a 125 gal and I have no plans to go bigger than a 75 gal
unfortunately. I definitely don't want multiple Haeckeli because I don't want to
worry about breeding. But I would like it to display somewhat of a natural
behavior. Do you think this will be achievable when kept singly?
<Some (behavior) yes>
Also from what I have read, these guys like a temp on the high end of the
tropical values, between 80-82, whereas the
Hemichromis and Synodontis prefer the lower end 74-77. Is this correct?
If I were to keep the Synos instead of getting the Casuarius, how much rockwork
should I remove in order to let them keep their territories but let the Haeckeli
have enough swimming space?
<Just some... maybe a bommie or two>
I've attached a photo of my tank to give you an idea of the current setup. I'd
prefer not to go with driftwood in this tank and I'm absolutely finished with
live plant upkeep.
I am not exactly sure why, but I see the 75 gal as looking like a very small
tank and I'd like the inhabitants in it to feel as though they have the same
amount of room as an Oscar would in a 125 gal, if I'm explaining that correctly?
<I think I understand>
In my tank photo there is about 9"-10" of open water between the rocks and front
of the glass and a similar space above as well. How much rockwork do you think I
should remove for the Threadfin?
Half or more?
Will it need a large open piece of floor to sift through?
<Not really; no. Have seen this species kept in small volumes, with little to no
If I were to keep the Synos do you think that would be a better choice than the
<If these were my catfish, I wouldn't part w/ them>
This last question is a bit of a strange one because I'm not sure if this would
look ridiculous in the tank I've been describing or would create the
overcrowding I'm trying to avoid, but I have 11 Marcii Rainbowfish in a 55 gal
that I have been trying to rehome without much success. They aren't the
prettiest fish but the orange doesn't make them completely bland I guess. If I
moved them into the 75 gal (mostly just out of the convenience of not having to
rehome them) I could move the 280gph canisters onto the 75 gal, which the
addition of would put me at 10x canister filtration. It would also mean that I
would only need to rehome the 4 emerald Corys and 5 Glowlights in that 55 gal.
Would this stress the Haeckeli, the Hemi, the Marcii, or the Synos in terms of
<I'd not mix the Corydoras and Tetras... with the others Or would
it look terrible as a stocking group (in your opinion) as a stocking list?
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Re: Threadfin Acara Kept Alone? 2/7/17
Great! We are almost at the end of my questions, but I am a Trump supporter so I
hope they still get answered hehe.
<Ah yes; certainly>
Because of the temp difference do you think the Synos, Hemi, or Haeckeli would
suffer at a tank temperature of around 79 degrees or do you think I may be
cutting it to too close to keep the tank temperature consistent and everyone
<I have high confidence that this temperature will be fine for all>
The Marcii are currently in with the tetras and Corys I would only be moving the
Marcii over to save me the trouble of rehoming (which also seem to enjoy a lower
temp) although I'm not sure if I consider them pretty enough to be with the
Threadfin. So my options for the 75 gal would be: 1x Haeckeli, 1x Hemichromis,
2x Synodontis Eupterus OR the same + 11x Marcii rainbows. Or the Haeckeli, the
Synos, the Jewel, and the Marcii (no Haeckeli), in which case I wouldn't need to
buy or rehome any fish. Even though I dislike the upkeep of live plants, I
believe that the Marcii like them so if I moved them over do you believe there
is any way to make a combination of the large rocks and driftwood/plants all
look nice together in a display tank or stick with one or the other?
<The latter would be my choice. The live plants won't work with the larger
fishes you list. They will/would be uprooted in short order>
Thanks again for all of the great advice and the amazing resources on your
<Thank you for your participation. Bob Fenner>
I have a regular size angelfish in a 29 gallon as a single and
six lemon tetras. I was wondering if a Bristlenose is taking it
too far when it comes to stocking? The filter is for a 50 gallon and I
am thinking the Bristlenose would put it on the edge bioload wise. Thank
<You should be fine! Just don't overfeed or skip on the water changes.
Ammonia and nitrite aren't going to be problems, but accumulating
nitrate can be a real problem for cichlids including Angels. Anything
above 40 mg/l is bad for them, and you want to try and stay below 20
mg/l if at all
possible. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Blackwater for Featherfin catfish?
Hi, Neale. I've got myself in quite a pickle. I went ahead and got 7
Glowlight tetras for my Betta tank because that is all my LFS had in stock.
They are absolutely stunning, especially in the dimly lit aquarium they are
the most fluorescent shade of orange and just spectacular looking in that
At first my Betta chased them around and then eventually gave up. He is
still interactive with me yet he is finding more hidden spots and out of the
way areas to rest than he had previously. These Glowlights also don't seem
timid at all. They will swim right up next to him as if taunting him,
especially 2 from the shoal.
<DO keep a close eye on them. They might be merely curious, in which case,
no problems. But if the Betta shows signs of fin-nipping, I'd remove them.>
I also bought 6 Amano shrimp. My Betta looked at one and now ignores them
(the shrimp). He seems to be mostly ignoring the Glowlights, yet they don't
really shoal well and are all over the tank.
<Perhaps add a couple more.>
So is he leaving them alone because they really don't bother him or is he
stressed and understands, given his space restrictions he has no choice but
to tolerate them?
I know that if I get a larger group they will shoal more but also take up a
lot more space.
<Marginally more! Two or three won't make a big difference unless this tank
is tiny, smaller than 10 gallons. If above that, adding a couple more
shouldn't be a problem.>
I know I wanted activity, and they are beautiful, but my Betta's territory
has become extremely small.
<He'll likely get over it, and do understand that their normal territory is
the top couple inches of water. So long as there's space at the surface plus
some floating leaves, he's happy.>
Also, he is still easy to feed but I haven't seen the Glowlights eat yet.
<Give them time; offer choices, such as live daphnia.>
Because the current is so still the fine flake sits at the top and don't
drop down much and they don't seem to see it at the top.
<Try a micro pellet food, such as Hikari Tropical Micro Pellets.>
On to the next problem, I moved the sword plant from my overgrown planted
tank to the back as it was positioned more to the front somehow. The
rainbows and Corys seem to love it and I can actually see them now! But I
wanted some extra driftwood for the Betta tank and while tanking it out I
was easily able to grab the Panaque, which I was surprised by. I put him in
the Betta tank, as you said they might be good tankmates and of course he
swam right under the piece of driftwood on the farthest side away from the
intake *sigh*. I can't even imagine the bioload he is going to add.
<Depends on his size. If he's a couple of inches, no more than a Corydoras.
But Panaque grow bigger than that, and some species grow a lot bigger. The
small species like Panaque maccus are fine in tanks 20-30 gallons in size;
but the bigger species, your standard issue Royal Plec for example, needs
55+ gallons and a LOT of filtration to handle their solid waste output.>
My original idea was just to do a beta tank with slow current, over
filtered, still water and barely any maintenance. Now I feel like I will be
doing excessive water changes, as effectively I am only working with 33
gallons of water here with the reduced height to the water column.
<Understood, and to a degree I think you're right. The more fish you add,
the more frequent maintenance needs to be. A few Glowlights and a single
Betta won't be placing much bio-load on a 20-30 gallon tank, and water
changes could be quite infrequent, even every couple months if you're not
feeding them heavily.>
I am mainly concerned about my Betta. If this bioload or even these flitting
little Glowlights are going to cause him stress instead of indifference, I
will remove everything else from the tank (except maybe get some glass cats
to cower in the back). How bad is my Panaque going to add to the bioload of
<See above; depends on the species.>
I'm thinking fairly significantly. I think maybe I was being greedy by
wanting to fill a 40 breeder with activity, when in reality I was just
upgrading my Betta tank from a 20gal. I know people often use the terms
happy and unhappy for fish, when it seems the better term is stressed or
<I doubt the Betta is stressed, to be honest. But if his life situation has
changed, he may need to adapt. The main thing is if he's active and feeding.
If he is, he's probably fine. If he's hiding away all the time and/or not
eating readily, you have a problem.>
In your honest opinion do you think my Betta would be more likely to thrive
on his own in that 40 breeder without the Glowlights or would it not matter
too much? And should I take that Panaque out so I don't have to do major
frequent water changes on this tank that was supposed to be my easiest?
Do you think a shoal of 20 glass catfish with the Betta and nothing else
would not be bad because they are so timid and shoal so tightly?
<Hard to say. Glass Cats get pretty big, 10-15 cm/4-6 inches even. So their
very size might alarm your Betta, even if they're not actually a threat.>
I really thought I was being patient and planning this tank out well but I
think it let it get the best of my control. By they way I have attached a
new photo of the tank in progress, I removed the fake Cabomba (I hate fake
plants) and tucked the sponge filter into a wooden crevice. I'm also growing
some duckweed and have Anubias and crypts settling in.
<All looks good to me.>
I have also increased the 240gph to full outflow but the water in the tank
still barely moves because it is pouring straight down behind a stump. I
also unknotted my sponge filter a bit. I'm really concerned about this take.
Any and all answers and advice are truly appreciated!
Re: Blackwater for Featherfin catfish?
Here are the reduced pictures.
The one of the new tank is with and without the lighting effect on which it
clearly looks much better with the effect on.
The other pictures are my 55gal no maintenance low tech planted (heavily?) tank,
which I have grown the plants since about 1".
<Looks very nice.>
The other tank is my mixed rift tank, which I forgot to mention, I'm going to
have to replace the stand soon because it is not safe. So since I will be
breakdown anyway, the question is should I just scrap it and restock and/or just
<Not sure I can answer that. It's up to you. Depends a lot on how much time you
have to spend on maintaining tanks, what your financial priorities are at the
moment, and how easy it is to rehome the existing fish. But whatever
you plan to do, it should be a pleasure, not a chore: a fish tank that you find
irritating or laborious quickly becomes neglected, which isn't good for the
Another thing that I forgot to mention is I have a pseudo bumblebee in there
who's eyes were eaten when he was very young. I considered euthanizing him,. But
eventually he stopped being black and can tell when it's feeding time by the
commotion from the other fish.
<Quite so. Most catfish are not reliant on their eyes, and there are numerous
"legally blind" species that use their taste receptors and touch receptors far
more significantly for finding food. Catfish also have excellent hearing and
lateral line systems that they use for avoiding
predators and navigating in the dark.>
I feed him sinking pellets. But no one wants him and if I change his environment
I'm not sure how easily he would be able to get food or adapt.
<Probably without much bother provided competition isn't too strong. He'd be
okay with a Synodontis eupterus if you provided enough for both to eat.
Algae wafers at different ends of the tank would be one solution.>
I'm looking for straight honest opinions if you think that all the tanks suck,
great, and if you don't think any suck, then fine. I don't know if I mentioned
earlier but I would like to be at 2 tanks soon. So its keep all 3, get rid of
one add the extra filtration to the other 2 tanks or get rid of 2 and replace
them with a peaceful community of large numbers of
schooling fish, or replace all 3 and get a large tank and start over.
Hopefully this isn't difficult to add to my last email and hopefully these
pictures work for you... Thanks!
<Most welcome. Neale.>
Re: Blackwater for Featherfin catfish?
I knew I would run into trouble after adding info to the message I sent you
attached to the photos after you had asked for reduced file size...This is
the actual topic I wanted to discuss... First, let me say I enjoy your
website immensely, so I made a small donation to your site through PayPal
today, sorry its not more but hopefully it helps.
<I'm sure it will; thank you.>
My reason for emailing this time actually changed twice since I wanted to
contact you. Originally my question was going to be to send you photos of
the two tams I have left a 75gal Mbuna/Malawi setup and a 55gal planted with
marcii rainbows, a royal Pleco (I think, haven't seem him in a while) and
ask your honest opinion if either looks good enough to keep running or
replace them both with a 120gal tiger barb species tank?
<Both the tanks looked nice. If they're working and you find them
interesting, I'd see no reason to change them. "Multiple Tank Syndrome" is a
common enough problem for people who get into fishkeeping though! I'm not
sure if 120 gallons for Tiger Barbs is crazy or brilliant. Maybe a bit of
both! Certainly a giant school of them would look amazing, and they do mix
well with certain fish. Just take care with anything they might nip at.>
The thing is in the planted tank I absolutely hate the trimming and pruning
so I just don't and that is the result in the photo I'm attaching.
<Here's one way to look at regular pruning of plants -- if you didn't remove
nitrate and phosphate by physically removing plant leaves, that nitrate and
phosphate would be in the water, causing algae to grow. You generally get
tanks with EITHER fast growing plants OR bad algae problems.
Rarely do you get both. So if your plants are growing quickly, that's
actually a good sign your tank is balanced and working nicely.>
Also in order to take that stock out I would have to tear down the whole
<This is the very "green" tank with the Rainbowfish? I think that looks
lovely. Possibly time to remove the biggest plants, like that giant Amazon
Sword, and allow their smaller, daughter plants to take over. The tank would
look a bit more balanced. Don't remove too many plants at once though
because you might spur algae into action, which you don't want!>
The African cichlid tank has settled down since my Moorii killed everything
he thought was a threat but the tank is just very chaotic, hard to clean,
and not all that relaxing.
<Understood. If the tank isn't pleasurable, and if you can rehome the fish
amicably, then sure, time to move them on.>
But then I had one more tank, a 20 long with a single beta, which is a fish
I'm keeping no matter what. My issue is that I wanted to at least get to 3
tanks (down from 15 last year) which is what I have. But instead of moving
the 20 long I had a 40 breeder empty keeping some bb alive and I figured its
a 3rd tank why not move the beta in there?
<Bettas do poorly in mixed species set-ups. Oddly enough might be fine with
giant catfish like your Panaque and the large Synodontis (though some
smaller Synodontis are fin-nibblers). What they do poorly with is small
schooling species like Danios and Tetras that nip at them or steal food.>
I wanted to go for a blackwater pool theme and as such have leaf litter and
very still water. I have a 240gph canister reduced to about 1/3 outflow and
aimed behind that stump that sticks out of the water (actually 7 pieces of
driftwood to look like a stump). I also have a sponge filter with knotted
tubing tucked into that fake Cabomba. I have the water reduced about 5
inches from the top and plan on getting some root bearing floating plants.
I would like to filter with peat but haven't yet, the effect in the photo is
just creative lighting with my Fluval LED.
I painted the back black and carefully planned it and it is my favorite
looking tank by far. The whole time I kept thinking, this wont be too big
for a beta. Boy was I wrong. I made the transition and he swam around the
whole tank, ate right away, found a sleeping spot.
<Ah, you understand now the myth of Bettas only "needing" a jar of water to
be happy. Of course they don't! They enjoy swimming as much as any fish, and
the more space, the happier. What they don't like are strong water currents
and more active tankmates.>
Seems to enjoy the gentle current.
But I cant even see him.
<Which suits him down to the ground!>
Even if he is an inch back from the front glass. It looks like an empty
tank. I guess I underestimated the size. Now my question is, what do I do?
I've read that either ember tetras or glass catfish or Corys MIGHT work with
him. I've also thought of Glowlights.
<Glowlights aren't a bad choice at all. They're very passive, and aren't
nippy. They're rather shy though, especially in small groups. So a decent
school will probably be necessary. Another option might be something like
Norman's Lampeye or some other smallish killifish, such as Epiplatys
annulatus (a gorgeous species, increasingly widely traded). Less demanding
would be one of the Ricefish species, like Oryzias dancena or Oryzias
woworae. Since killifish and Ricefish stay close to the surface they'd add
colour and movement to the tank, and their small size should work well with
If I go with the Glowlights or embers I would put a school of about 15 and
if I go with the glass cats (k. minor) about 12 or some combo of both.
<All these should be fine. The Glass Cats are lovely fish, but I think "more
of the same" in terms of behaviour. They're shy and don't move about much. A
true dwarf or even a simply small Corydoras species such as Corydoras
hastatus (a true dwarf) or Corydoras panda (simply a small species) might be
nice, too. Active and in the case of Corydoras panda,
If I went with the Glowlights I would want the orange ones and with Corys,
the orange laserline Corys, maybe 9 of them.
<Ah, I see we're thinking along the same lines.>
Because my beta is dark purple with orange fins do you think the orange from
the Glowlights and Corys would be too much stress for him, or even/also the
color of the embers?
<Nope. Bettas react to Bettas, to labyrinth fish, and occasionally other
similar shape/size species like dwarf cichlids. Completely different fish,
catfish and tetras for example, are almost always ignored.>
Also, I have CaribSea Rio Grande gravel in there, which says soft belly safe
right on the bag, but would Corys really be happy if it wasn't sand?
<Not as happy as in sand, but happy enough to thrive.>
And since the beta will be in there already has he claimed the whole 40B as
<The surface of the tank, anyway. But below the top three inches, nope,
that's fair game. Take him out, jumble the decorations, add the new fish,
put him back half an hour later, and he should be fine.>
I really don't want a 4th tank which is what I would need to do if I take
him out of this new setup. So back to my original question (sort of) based
on the photos attached of my rift lake and planted tank, do you think, just
as a personal opinion, either one is worth keeping?
And should my beta be removed from the new setup or given some of the
mentioned tankmates, unless you have better suggestions? Thanks again! Sorry
for the confusion of the multiple emails and photo size changes. I will
attach the photos again for the sake of continuity... And thank you for
answering the other questions as well! (and I meant a bumble cichlid from
your previous response about my blind guy)
<Did assume you meant Bumblebee Catfish! Cheers, Neale.>