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FAQs on Glass Aquarium Repair, Chips/Cracks 9

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Related FAQs: Chips/Cracks 1, Chips/Cracks 2, Chips/Cracks 3, Chips/Cracks 4, Chips/Cracks 5, Chips/Cracks 6, Chips/Cracks 7, Chips/Cracks 8, Chips/Cracks 10, Chips/Cracks 11, & Glass Aquarium Repair 1, Glass Aquarium Repair 2, G lass Aquarium Repair 3, Glass Aquarium Repair 4, Glass Aquarium Repair 5,  & FAQs on Repairing Glass Tank: Scratches/Blemishes, Cross-Braces, Leaks, Whole Panes, Tools: Cutting Glass, Silicone, Moulding/Frames; Techniques; Olde Tank (Slate Bottom, Metal Frame, Pecora...) Repairs, Troubleshooting/Repairs, & Acrylic Aquarium RepairUsed Aquarium Gear

Chips in 240gal Tank     8/13/13
Hi guys,
I've been poring over your site for the last couple of days and haven't managed to find a problem that really fits 'exactly' with the problems I have.  I may just need to do some more digging.
<Mmm, if you scanned through all the chipped glass tank repair FAQs you're done>
I acquired (about a year ago), a 240 gallon, custom aquarium, approximately 24"w x 32"T x 72"L, made form 5/8" glass.  It has a built in overflow that uses 8" of one end of the tank and has euro-bracing around the perimeter of the tank.  It does not have a cross-brace.
<I would add one (a foot or more wide) in the "middle"; on top or bottom of the (doubled) Eurobraces already present (and chipped/broken)>
 This tank, as you can imagine is a beast to move and was treated rather roughly by it's previous owner during moving due to lack of planning and too few hands  (cost one of them a finger). 
The trim on both ends of the bottom were torn off.  On one end, the glass escaped unharmed, but the other wasn't so lucky.  In the picture attached, "bottom_corner_chip", you can see the rather large chip on the bottom pane.
<Yes; but/and this doesn't look/appear "too bad">
There's also a sliver chipped off the opposite end, at the top, just below the trim.
<I see this as well>
In addition to those, the bracing has broken and cracked in the center on both long edges.  I think those were more due to the stress of holding the water and had less to do with moving.
<Mmmm; I hope/trust due to something other than holding water>
Alas, I really want to set this tank up.  The silicone looks a little rough in a few places and discolored (orange/brown color) in others and I would really like to 'not' have to reseal this monster if I don't have to.  It would be my first time and I'm not terribly confident I wouldn't make it worse.
<I would try it as is; then as the next level of repair, cut out and replace the corner seals... LASTLY I might attempt cutting out the between glass, cleaning up (w/ Toluene likely) and completely re-assembling... But more likely would turn into something other than an aquarium...>
The tank was originally used as a saltwater tank, and has not yet been cleaned.  I intend to use it for African Cichlids and upgrade their living space.
I intend to set this up in my garage prior to moving it inside the house to its final destination, but I would rather get it repaired before putting water in it to even bother trying to test it. 
<Good. I would go this route as well>
Moving, as stated before is an issue and requires minimum 4 people and lots of luck, so the fewer times it gets moved, the better.  It's currently sitting on 2 furniture dollies, with 2x4's under each end so I can move it around while cleaning it, but flipping and lifting requires planning.
So my question is, can this be repaired to a point where it wouldn't explode?  If it can, what's the best method of doing so?
<I would try simply "filling in" the external gaps/chips with Silastic (to prevent hand cuts), and do the repairs/additions mentioned above... Easy (even fun!) to add the bracing atop or below the extant... and the front/back brace piece on top or below the long run braces>
Thank you in advance,
<Glad to assist you. Bob Fenner>

Re: Chips in 240gal Tank     8/13/13
Thank you very much for your quick response.  I'll make the suggested repairs and let you know how it goes.
<Thank you, BobF>
Thanks again,

Re: Chips in 240gal Tank; plus bracing and resiliconing     9/4/13
Hi Bob,
Thanks again for your previous help, but I have some more questions and I wanted to compare ideas a little.  I talked to someone that works at/for glasscages.com.  He suggested that I go with 2 center braces, vs. 1, even if they're smaller.
 He said, "Two braces are always better than one."
<I do agree with this statement; just the more there are, the harder it is to get "stuff" in/out of the system, catch livestock... at some point, having more braces/bracing is of not much more benefit>
  I just wanted your opinion on doing (2) 4" wide or 6" wide vs. (1) 12" wide as previously suggested.
<... also; "the wider the braces the better"... w/ same comment re "diminishing returns">
  My plan is to put a cross brace or braces between the existing bracing, and then laminate a second cross brace on top of it with the rest of the laminated bracing.
He also pointed out that they build theirs with euro bracing at the top and bottom of their tanks.  I like the "idea" of doing the euro bracing at the bottom as well, however, I'm leery about doing any cutting on the existing silicone.
<Mmm, this isn't really a big deal... a bit of work (look into tools for holding on to single edged razors), but can be done leisurely; not all at once>
 From what I've read on your FAQ's, I would have to cut the silicone out of the corners, being careful not to cut in between the glass panes. 
<Yes; and again, not hard to do>
If I do that though, will I not have to replace 'all' of the silicone in the rest of the seams as well?
<You will not have to replace the rest; no>
 My concern would be tying into the silicone on the vertical seams if I only cut out the bottom silicone where the bracing would go.
<The "in corner" Silicone is not functional in terms of holding the tank together (not much anyway), but really to protect the "between glass" Silicone...>
Another concern would be physically crawling into the aquarium to work on the bottom of it.  I know the water puts a lot more pressure on the glass that I could, but it's spread out over the whole pane.  Would me (155 pounds) crawling around in the aquarium hurt it, so long as it was resting on a blanket to keep from scratching it etc.?
<Yes; assuredly... Though I'd likely have friends help tilt the tank on the face, back and just enter it this way; rather than crawl inside>
  It's 30" deep, and to work on the bottom, I would have to crawl in.
Thanks again,
<Welcome. BobF>

Chipped Corner - Used Tank Integrity Question    7/15/13
I just picked up a used 100 gallon bottom drilled tank off craigslist for 60 dollars (approximately 48.5 x 18 x 28). It appears to be an older Oceanic tank because of the glass euro brace in the middle of the top. It was missing its bottom frame, but was not worried as it came with a custom built stand in which 6x6 posts support the  tank corners and stand frame, along with cross members supporting approximately 80 % or more of the tank bottom.
<Reads as substantial>
The tank bottom glass sits level and flush on the corner posts and middle support members. The stand was designed with the tank recessed down approximately 1.5 inches to keep it from sliding off the stand.
<Won't be sliding anywhere... unless there's a large earthquake in your area>
Some scratches, but overall a good deal for upgrading from a 55 gal to 100 gals on a budget!
Wasn't too worried about the missing frame for only 60 bucks. After getting home, I noticed on the end I did not carry while moving the tank there was some tape on a corner. Upon closer inspection i noticed a sizable chunk of glass missing from the bottom pane corner. For reference, the side glass is approximately 1/2 inch thick and the bottom glass is approximately 3/4 or slightly thicker. This damage occurred at the front left corner (in both pictures you are looking from the bottom upwards...the left side glass is the tank side and the right side glass is the front glass).
<Got you>
Is this a catastrophic injury in which it makes it unsafe to use this as an aquarium?
<Mmm, likely not... I WOULD fill in the chipped out area with Silicone/Silastic, to prevent cutting hands>
 Or is there some kind of repair I can do to strengthen the corner. I am concerned only because the chipped of glass has exposed a part of seam from the side and front glass, however, there is no obvious signs of fracturing, bubbling, or other disturbance in the side seam. Furthermore, there is still the near original thickness of silicone adhering to the bottom of both side and front panes of glass.
What do you think as to the integrity of the tank while utilizing the custom stand?
<I'd try out (the garage, or someplace flat outside), and fill the tank, leave it filled a few days>
Can I still use this tank, or am I better off unloading this tank to someone for use as a snake, lizard, etc enclosure?
<Try it out>
As much as I like this tank and was intending to do an in-wall display with it, I can't help but wonder whether I should keep looking for a better used tank and not waste the time and effort on this one. In addition to cleaning the tank up prior to use, I had intended on re-silicone beading the entire inside.
<Oh! If you do so; lay in some 1/4" (triple strength) plate stripping (2" wide will be fine)... see WWM Glass Tank Repairs FAQs re, in the bottom seams... all the way around>>
 The guy I bought it from got it used and never set it up, so I figured a re-seal was not completely uncalled just to "be sure".
<A good idea; with the added strips>
All thoughts and guidance from your experiences and expertise are greatly appreciated.
Shaun D.
<And do detail, photograph your progress. I'd write all up for an article for the petfish 'zines. Bob Fenner>

Re: Chipped Corner - Used Tank Integrity Question
Hello again! First of all thank you for your first reply and help!
I was trying to find a faq on the website as suggested over the last few days about adding the 1/4" plate stripping. I was able to locate one faq that referred to placing the glass strips on the outside seam.
<Mmm, no; not on the outside, but the inside seam... silicone into the corner; the added glass stripping laying flat>
 Was this what you were referring to? Or should I actually place the strips on the inside of the tank?
<Ah yes>
 If on the inside, should the strips be affixed with the 2 inch width along the bottom or sides?
<On the bottom>
Thanks again!
<Sorry for the confusion. Bob Fenner>

emergency!  Chipped glass tank... mystery   Uneven stand f' as well    7/11/13
Dear Sir/Madame,
I have a 220x80x70cm tank, it's made out of 10mm glass. So the tank is 70cm
and I gave it a test fill after giving the silicone about two weeks to cure. I filled it up to 65cm, but I'm planning to fill it 60cm max. So I filled it and left it like that for a day (the tank with about 1100L of water), the next day I didn't notice any problems, when I came back later that day, I noticed that chips had broken loose from the bottom pane from both sides, front and back, see pics.
<Broken loose? Something... someone must have impacted this area with a solid>

 I emptied it, leaving just a cm of water and removed the pieces, thank God it was not leaking, one piece was quite big but most of the silicone was intact (I had to remove a small bit of silicone to remove the chip), and it didn't crack the bottom pane
further. The backside chip is smaller, but both chips are about at the same spot on each side. I noticed that even when I filled the tank with 1100L water, that the bottom pane still doesn't touch the Styrofoam, but is a little little bit above it.
<Something amiss here... I'd take the tank off and measure your stand surface in several places with a long level or a short one with a long straight edge. The surface of the stand itself is apparently not level, planar>

 I don't know if the chipping was caused due to weak spots at both sides or because of the stress...
<Not likely at all... otherwise the tank bottom glass would have split. This is an impact break>

It didn't leak. So what I did next was silicone the pieces back into place and I siliconed an aluminum corner strip to the front as you can see in the picture. I have still to do that for the back. The aluminum goes about 2 to 3cm underneath the tank. On the inside there is a glass plate on both sides used for bracing.
<A Euro-brace... near the top... on the long faces of the tank.>

So my questions are:
(1) can I use this tank if I fill it up to 58cm to 60cm or will the tank burst?
<Too likely the latter>
(2) was the fortification with the aluminum a good thing to do?
<Not a good thing... It only "goes about 2 to 3cm underneath the tank." Why would you make an edge that disallows the bottom glass to sit flat?>

(3) what do you think caused the chipping
and why isn't my tank 100% level on the Styrofoam. I screwed a piece of plywood on top of the stand so that it would be level and not bent, and on top of that I've put the Styrofoam.
<Did you check to assure the ply was planar AND level in all length, width dimensions?>
What are my options and what should I do.
<Mmm; more of a repair here is required>
picture 84 and 85 are of the front, picture 86 and 87 of the back and picture 88 of the aluminum corner strip I added to the front after siliconing the chip back into place.
thank you very much.
<I'd drain the tank, test the plywood top as stated, and cut off the aluminum parts that go under the tank bottom... AND cut out the internal bottom Silicone/Silastic, and place a strip (5 cm., 2 in. wide is fine) of 10 cm. glass, Siliconed in all along (flat) the bottom seams). See WWM re such repairs. Bob Fenner>

Re: emergency!   7/11/13
Thank you for the answers Bob, very much appreciated!
But what impact, there is nobody here who could have done it, at least no human begin, and I don't have any animals inside the house... and it's at both sides, so my guess is stress
<Very strange>
And shouldn't the Styrofoam make everything that is not level, level?
<Mmm, no; helps if all is just a bit... a few mm.; not level>

I have a Eurobracing at the top and the bottom, you can see that in the pictures I've attached to this e-mail.
<Ah, good>

Other than that the plywood was slightly bent, it's 100% level, maybe I have to screw it in more places, but I thought I had done that well enough.
<I'd screw it every six inches, 15 cm., AND seal/coat the plywood
... it will warp in time otherwise if/when it gets wet>
What if I removed the plywood and placed the tank on top of the stand after placing the Styrofoam on top of it, see pic of the stand attached.
<I see>
Ok, so what I'll do is:
1) get the heavy tank with some help of the stand and check the surface of the plywood.
2) should I cut out the silicone of the whole bottom? I have a Eurobracing at the bottom at both ends, at the top and the bottom as you can see, wouldn't that be good enough? Maybe I've misunderstood what you mean.
<After seeing these pix, I would NOT cut the Silastic... I would leave all as you have done for the tank as it is>
Thank you!!
<Welcome. BobF>

Re: emergency!   7/11/13
It could be that the pane was damaged a little at those spots and that it couldn't withstand the pressure so it chipped off,
<... doesn't happen... glass/es are super-cooled liquids... don't fracture as you describe>
 maybe that's a logical explanation? The large panes have been cut by hand, he (the one I bought the glass from) said that they didn't fit in his machine.
<No worries; huge pieces of glass are cut by hand. Easy to do w/ proper tools>
I hope to be receiving an answer from you, thank you for your help so far.
Kind Regards, Amad
<And you, B>
Re: emergency!   7/11/13

I know that the plywood itself is 100% in it's dimensions, because it's a factory plywood as you can see in the pic I have attached.
gr. Amad
<... and you're sure no one has been in the house; could have damaged the tank by bumping something hard into the edge? I'd be asking all who have access to the area. B>
Re: emergency!   7/11/13

Thank you!
Yes I asked my mom if no one entered at some point, she said no, and at this time I am around the house most of the time, I haven't seen any kids.
And it's at both ends, a child would just throw something at it, not plan strategically how to destroy the tank.
<... Again, very odd>
So I should not cut any silicone?
<Correct. I would fill in, as you say you've done, the "scalloped out areas" where the glass was chipped (to prevent someone cutting their hands), but the internal bottom bracing should hold this tank together>
Just try to make the plywood 100% (I honestly thought it was and as you said, those 2 or 3 mm's are being sorted out by the Styrofoam).
<Yes; should be... BUT, you stated you could see light between the foam and the tank bottom... not good. This IS more than a few mm.>
 So that's then the only thing I'll do, look at the stand and level it. Do I need to do anything other than that and it will be
safe to fill it?
<Should be; yes>
 I will also remove the aluminum from the bottom. Let me know if I forgot something.
<With the Al removal you should be fine>
Thank you for your help and expertise!
gr. Amad
<Glad to share. B>
Re: emergency!   7/12/13

Thank you!!
gr. Amad
<Welcome. B>

Re: emergency! Chipped glass tank, uneven stand      7/16/13
Hi Bob,
I would just like to say that I put screws every 10cm and it didn't work, maybe the stand underneath the plywood isn't 100%, it's very frustrating. And it really is just 2 or max 3mm above the foam in the middle and the right side. When I filled it with water, the right side went down but not in the middle, this probably caused the chipping, and perhaps the bracing was the reason that it didn't break the bottom pane in half. I don't know what to do. I hope you have some advice for me.
<Mmm, if it were me... I'd redirect my frustration/angst w/ this project... remove all the screws, determine where the dang high spot/s are, grind them down and put the ply back on>
Thank you.
Gr. Amad
<Welcome. BobF>
Re: emergency!

thanks. Then I have to call in many people to help hahah, I calculated that the aquarium is about 200+ kg.
Gr. Amad
<Yeeikes! Yes; many friends... and a good plan... likely suction type tools for lifting the tank. BobF>
Re: emergency!

o man! I don't have those possibilities out here, so what should I do than, because I'm afraid it'll break!
gr. Amad
<Better that it breaks w/ you and friends shifting the tank off the stand, then when it's filled. B>
Re: emergency!

true.. but I think the tank won't survive, it's really heavy, I'll have to place it on foam on the ground, lifting it up might be even worse then
<... so?>
Re: emergency!

maybe I'll just shift the tank, unscrew it bit by bit, than turn the plywood with the tank on top, if that'll work and try to sand the higher places of the stand
<I'd remove>
Re: emergency!

Hi bob,
maybe you can look at these pics, what do you make of it?
The first pic 89 shows the tank filled partially, I filled it just now.
Pic 90 a pic of the left side, its on the foam.
Pic 91 is of the middle
Pic 92 is of the right side
Pic 93 is a close up of the right side
Pic 94 is a close up of the middle
Pic 95 is a close up of the left side.
I hope the pics are good enough
Do I still need to sand, I'd rather not because it will be a tough job with the risk of breaking the tank.
<.... is the tank not settling flat on the foam? B>
Thank you.
Gr. Amad

94 & 95' Not all right, I see the light...
Re: emergency!
it is as if it's not, when there is no water in it the left side is on it, the middle not and the right side not, but the space is not big between the aquarium and the foam. When I put water in the tank, the right side goes down but not the middle. Maybe the stand is a little bit higher on the left side. I am emptying the tank.
<Amad; I am VERY glad/relieved to read this.
Re: emergency!

the stand is pretty even, I shifted the tank and placed a level at the front from the left to the right, then at the back from the left to the right.
<Keep moving the level... and if it isn't long enough to span the uprights (and ply), use a true (flat) straight edge under (between) the level>
At some places maybe a tiny tiny bit off, but I don't think that's the reason, or at least I don't know what the reason for the tank not being even on the Styrofoam can be
<? Well; either the ply, the foam or the stand is uneven... or the floor with the stand setting itself uneven on it... My vote is still on the stand being the issue here. B>
Re: emergency!     7/16/13

that I am emptying it? I still don't really know what causes this, maybe it could even be the foam
<.... READ here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/aqstdleveling.htm
and the linked files above>

Re: emergency!      7/16/13
It's about half a cm difference between the water level at the far right and the far left.

But that couldn't be the cause right?
Re: emergency!      7/16/13

>Stop writing: READ>
hahahahah but what's a 1/2 cm? Could this really be the cause? I measured the far left and the far right after filling it and it was about 1/2cm more water on the left, so that would mean that the right side is 1/2cm higher from the bottom. So this would solve the problem? putting something of a 1/2cm underneath the stand at the right?
Re: emergency!      7/16/13
alright I will thanks m8!!
Re: emergency!      7/16/13
you guys need a medal you know that hahah.
gr. Amad

Crack in sump Please help    5/19/13
Hi there, I woke today and noticed my external dolphin pump was making a weird noise. I disconnected the pump, and  cleaned it. When I went to go connect it again my sump cracked!
<Oh! No fun... and quite common when there's much force on through puts here>
it got 16" crack all the way down the side of it. I pulled out the water out of my sump below the crack. I bought some GE silicone 1 to fix it. Well this work, or am I screwed?
<Mmm, I'd very likely replace the tank itself... too likely that the repair will prove unsuccessful, unsightly. You could save the cracked/repaired one for a back up... but I'd affix a new piece/panel over the entire visible side... redrill>
 I have a 180 salt tank and sump is 70gallon. I also read the instruction on the back and says I got 12 hours before I can fill it back up.
<Give this 24 hours>
 My fish won't make it that long.
<Mmm, they should... put all pumps, aerators in the main/display tank>
 I pulled all the water out and put it in my r.o. bucket. I did leave the live rock in there. Please help, Becky
<Perhaps an acrylic sump replacement. Bob Fenner>
Re: Crack in sump Please help, now bad Dolphin pump.     5/20/13

Thank you Bob, I went to bed my pump was quiet I got up and it was way loud. I cleaned it out and its still loud. Its a dolphin Ampmaster pump. Not even six months old I paid $400 for it.
<Send it back... it will be replaced>
�� Its a good lessen to not work on your tank at 4 in the morning. Becky
<Yikes! BobF>

Corner Chipped On Bottom Glass Pane    3/17/13
Hello WWM,
Here's the deal... I picked up a used 180 with a broken piece of trim, and when I got the broken  part off I found a chunk
<... chip of glass>
broken out of the one corner. I had the tank filled for  about 2 hours while cleaning it, and no leaks. I don't however wish to tempt  fate anymore then I have to.
Any ideas on weather <whether> or not this is  fixable/usable?
You can see that it starts small on the outer edge, and widens  as it continues inward to the inside edge of the glass.
<Ah yes; good pix>
Should I shoot  some glass epoxy in there?
<Of no use>
Place a 4x4 piece of glass on the inside in the  corner?
<Two by inch pieces would be better... four... one in each corner area meeting at the break site>
Maybe run a 1" strip down that side of the bottom on the outside (it's  the short side... 24" side)? All of the above?
<Mmm, you can search/read on WWM re other peoples repairs that are similar.
I would replace the frame, place all on a bit of foam>
Any help would be  great
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Wales glass bending. Hole and bowing concern    2/28/13
Hello from Wales.
I have a tank with the fish and the coral trees all growing together. It is a rooms divider and is 62 inches tall and ate feet (96 inches) in length with the wide being just 30 inches so I can get in and clean occasionally, (not me, the tank I mean). I also have real rocks inside the tank with bushes on too some of them....My batfish likes these.
I had this tank made with the very thick glass I think it was diamond white glass and was 10 mm thick all over. (I don't know what mm is but it looks nearly one half of an inch plus a bit).  The glass was very straight when the men input the tank and was very straight all along the front and back. 
Now I have the tank going for 8 months (I have a dump below the tank in my seller <cellar> with extra sea water) which feeds the water up and down. 
As I was saying the glass was very even along the front and the back but now it seems like it is a bow front tank, is this normal?
<Mmm; well, glass/es are super-cooled liquids, not really solids... and do "flow" with time; but not this short a period... likely was bowing all along once filled>
 Also there is a very tiny hole right at the bottom,
 not at the front but at the back!  I attack <attached> a picture with this mail ok?
<Yes, I see it... a puncture-caused piece is missing>
  It is a funny hole because you can actually/seriously pass a thin wire/needle right threw it and it has big round circle round this point.
<Like a bee bee or small caliber shot...>
 After much pushing and some blood getting the rubber in the hole
<Silastic I take it>
 with glue as well the piss/leak seems to stopped.
<How far below water level is this hole?>
 I did have to drain out the tank which the fishes didn't like one little bit, flapping and jumping all over the place they were!!  But now is ok, they have water back.
My house is in the sea (well not in it as such but very close) so I don't have big bills with the salt/powder to buy. I have a titchy/tiny bat fish but he is now like 2 feet tall and he eats lots of coral trees and bushes. 
(Hehe one day my porcupine shark will eat him no?).
<Not likely; Platacids are smart, and faster>
 So my friend Bob and sparky or was it scottie I used to speaks to many years ago? How can I make the front of the tank flat again please?.
<Can't be done>
I think I needs help yes? 
Many many thanks,
<As many welcomes. Bob Fenner>

Re: Wales glass bending. Hole, leaking... too-thin glass    3/3/13
Thank you Sir Bob (the man himself answer my question I am proud)
Have emptied and filled this tank 3 times now....am fed up.....Still it leak.
I am ok now, have taken the water out from the tank, fish and trees in temporary getup, they will be fine for a time yes? My bat is so tame now, he lay on my hand when I take him out of the big tank and not flap any! He still eat well too. Lion fish not too happy. I have to be careful when am in tank with him as he can sting very bad, but you may know this already.
<Ah yes>
I could not stop the leak. It was right near the very bottom say 2 inches up, or 58 inches about from the top!
<Dangerous... 10 mm glass is too thin for this height already>
I tried with the rubber in the tube but I got in real mess (more on me than on tank....Not good).  A friend of mine say to give up on the wall tank or make glass 4 times thicker, but that my friend Bob, is way way too much money.
<I'd consider making this a "partly filled" system... perhaps  brackish biotope, a mangrove swamp, a paludarium...>
The hole in my tank?  Was not  bee-bee as she is just 4 months old since born, she could/did not make the hole. I find a piece of glass in the side of the tank and it was like a tiny/weeney perfect pyramid. Could not make one better if I tried.
I need big caliber shot of the Welsh Whiskey!!
I know what you say about glass is liquid. I learn many years ago (was Photographer) that in churches, old churches best, the stained glass windows were always more thick at the bottom of each panel, seriously Bob, (maybe I teach you something huh?...I should be so lucky!).
<Have experienced this as well>
I might give up on this big tank think I, and go back with my little 400g tank.
What you think my friend?
<As above>
Many, many thanks,
PS. Just a quickie Bob. I want to have a Mantis shrimp in a bee bee tank say 3 gallons. Would you use glass or plastic for the tank?
Tanks again.
<And you, BobF>

Chipped tank     1/4/13
I recently purchased a new 15g tank and set it up as a saltwater aquarium.
It has been running fine for a couple of weeks now. However, this morning I noticed a small chip on the front glass of the tank which I have not noticed before. I must have knocked something against it but don't recall this happening. The flake/chip is very shallow, so I assume it will not affect the structural viability of the tank, but doesn't look great. Is it something I can ignore?
<Very likely so; yes (due to the size of system, position, entirety of the chip)... I might "fill it in" with a bit of Silicone/Silastic to prevent cutting your hands/fingers, but structurally this is almost assuredly fine>
Should I turn the tank around of leave it?
<You could turn it about if convenient, but I would still fill in the spot>
 Pictures attached:
Front view:
side view:

Thank you in advance
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Paul Atkinson

Re: Chipped tank     1/4/13
Thanks you very much, Bob, for your quick and reassuring reply.
<Welcome Paul. BobF> 

I think my tank is a goner 12/15/12
Hi crew,
After planning a move carefully using WWM FAQs, involving both a 180 and a 70-litre tank, I fell at the last hurdle and banged the corner of the
70-litre against the handrail of my new place as I was moving in.
After perusing the FAQs, I think this tank is now a goner, given the chip is in the bottom corner and that it seems to run through the whole width of
the pane :-(.
Could you please confirm this based on the four pictures supplied?
<I wouldn't call it a total loss until you leak test it.  Take it someplace safe, like outside.  Fill the bottom 1/4 with water and let it stand for 24
hours.  Add another 1/4 and let it stand another 24 hours. Repeat until the tank is completely full and has not leaked for 24 hours, you then need to
decide how much confidence you have in the tank.  If you do decide to use it, I would still locate the tank someplace where a leak would not be a
complete catastrophe.  If the tank does leak during your test, it would best be used as a reptile or rodent tank.>
Cheers and thanks,
<Good luck - Rick.>

chips on Hexagon corners 10/15/12
My CraigsList purchase turned bad - Chipped corners Hexagon tank 45 gal -
Very worried about Hexagon corner, since they meet at sharp corner point with silicone on each side of the seams, where the outer vertical seams are basically a triangle gap filled with silicone (is this a usual construction
of all glass hexagon tanks?).
<With Craigslist, caveat emptor. Yes, this is typical hex tank construction.>
Wow your site is awesome, I am so glad to have discovered it while researching "can I repair chip".
<It's an excellent resource and growing all the time.>
I love my fish (for 5 years tending 50 gal fresh water with 8 beautiful, large, colorful Cichlids, school of Foil
Barbs, and a pair of Convicts who always get picked on which is another reason I'm starting this second tank. A few times a year I redecorate and rearrange with unique broken marble granite pieces which makes wonderful caves where i arrange a visual view of each fishes chosen home. It is so fun to watch them discover which cave they will choose this time, and they are quite playful while I am arranging, lol.
<Be sure this doesn't impact the fish. There are some fishes where rearranging will break pair bonds--the genus Julidochromis, for instance.>
Well..... I wanted to add this 45 gal hexagon as second tank. I purchased it as, tank only, no stand or top, from a craigslist ad, and got it home and discovered what I believe to be bad chips on 2 of the vertical seams.
<Inspect before buying. Caveat emptor.>
Sadly, circumstances lead me to believe she knew of the chips when she sold it to me.
<Probably. Hopefully factored into the price.>
They look bad here at home so I didn't even attempt water yet. I picked out the old silicone to get a better view (which I hope pictures show. I have read through many of your excellent posts which helped me decide to repair, but I didn't see
hexagon, and my corners seem different.
<Picking out the silicone may or may not have been a good idea. The tank might have been fine as-was. I would have leak tested first. From the photos it is not really clear if the chips are on the inside or outside of the tank. Outside is far more likely and also structurally a much better place to have damage like this.>
Are they weaker where they meet at the sharpness of the corner, since don't overlap as the standard does?
<The tank is more dependent upon the silicone than square corners, but the base and top should have a plastic rim to help with structural integrity. I wouldn't mess with them.>
I want to be sure I am deciding to repair this correctly or is there a better option. First, do I have to entirely replace the piece with the big chip where the glass meets at that sharp corner and has a chip in the gap where they should touch? i can get new glass if necessary.
Replacing an entire pane or rebuilding a whole tank is a very big job.
Better to leave it assembled and repair only what is necessary to repair.
You've removed one section of silicone so that area is mandatory to repair.>
Second, can I seal only the length of the damaged vertical seams, or must i remove all silicone and reseal whole tank because of the old silicone may not bonding well to remaining top and bottom seals?
<I would start by resealing what you removed.>
Do I also need to remove top and bottom silicone seals and the remaining panel seams?
<Not recommended unless you want to rebuild the entire tank. Many places to go wrong.>
I will thoroughly clean seams/glass to be sure no residue to ensure good seal.
<Good idea. If the chips are on the outside surface, they shouldn't be a big deal. If they are on the inside, leaving a hole where the two glass panes come together, that is bad news and probably needs a new pane. As I said above, I would reseal the are where you removed silicone, wait a week, then do a leak test on the tank *outside* in case of catastrophic failure.
If it's already too cold to do that, I'd wait for spring. When you leak test, especially on a big tank, you want the chance to detect slow leaks, so the testing is not done quickly. Fill the bottom 1/4 of the tank and dry the outside surfaces. Wait 24 hours and look for moisture outside. If all looks good, add another 1/4 so the tank is half full and wait another 24
hours, checking for moisture again. Repeat two more times until the tank has been totally full for 24 hours. If there is a slow leak at the bottom, the weight of the water above it should help you detect it. If the seals are bad and the tank catastrophically fails, better to have 45 gallons of water outside.>
I believe I changed pics to below 100 kb each, I hope the quality an still show the damage.
I sincerely Thank You for your reply ~ * lovinfish *
<Welcome. Rick> 

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