FAQs on the Molly
Poeciliids: Guppies, Platies, Swordtails,
Mollies by Neale Monks, Livebearing
Fishes by Bob Fenner,
Related FAQs: Mollies
1, Mollies 2,
Molly Identification FAQs,
Molly Behavior FAQs,
Molly Compatibility FAQs,
Molly Selection FAQs,
Molly System FAQs,
FAQs on Molly Disease:
Molly Disease 1,
Molly Disease 2,
Molly Disease 3,
Molly Disease 4,
Molly Disease 5,
Molly Health 6,
Molly Health 7,
Molly Health 8, Molly Health ,
FAQs on Molly Disease by Category:
Nutritional (e.g. HLLE),
Social, Infectious (Virus, Bacterial, Fungal),
FAQs on Molly Reproduction/Breeding:
1, Molly Reproduction 2,
Molly Reproduction 3,
Most diseases with Mollienesia start with environmental
stress... and are most/best treated by improving the environment...
Temperature and salt use usually defeats Protozoan issues.
Other: Worm, Crustacean parasites require drug
Molly coloring or ich? 12/6/17
I bought a couple of mollies today at my LFS. I was thinking it was natural
coloring for a molly but now I am hoping it's not ich. I attached 3 best pics
they are not great pics but they are the best I took of around 10 hopefully you
can tell me if my fish have problems. Thanks in advance Joe
<I can't make out if this fish has Ich or not Joe. That it is full-bodied and
has erect finnage, is out swimming are good signs. Is the water here alkaline,
hard... are you using aquarium salt? I would ask you to read re Mollies on WWM,
and as much of the Molly FAQs files linked at top that you have time for. Bob
Re: Molly coloring or ich?
Thank you for the reply Mr. Fenner
I am not using aquarium salt. Should I be?
<Mmm; IF the other life here can tolerate it... yes>
and if yes on what type of schedule?
<... please read where I referred you>
My tank is a 40 gallon long. One of my fish is a black ghost I know that is
eventually going to be to small but I took him from a friend in a pinch that
took down his tank. My other fish are blood fin tetras and Cory cats.
I thought I read somewhere that black ghosts can't do aquarium salt I know you
will clarify that for me.
<The Tetras and likely the Corydoras are not fans of much salt... Better to
place the mollies elsewhere if you have another cooler water, higher pH, dKH
Also I know you said you can't tell by the photos that it is ich BUT is black
with white spots ever a common pattern on a molly?
<Mmm, yes... there are actual "Salt and Pepper" varieties>
You mentioned that
<...That it is full-bodied and has erect finnage, is out swimming are good
signs>... I am taking it that you mean "good signs" as to the possible health of
the fish and not "good signs" that is probably is ich.
take care. Joe Kerner
<Likely this fish is fine; would be better in a tank w/ conditions that
favor it. Bob Fenner>
molly sick? Env., worm.... 2/22/17
Hi my name is Steve.
<Kbytes, not Megs Steve>
. I have a 37 gal tank which I started from brand new in a new hobby .. and
of course I made the rookie mistake of adding too many fish too soon…
eventually all died off due to overstocking and ammonia spikes
<Yikes; toxic; debilitating>
at the end I had a Pleco (was a real trooper through all medications etc.)
and 3 mollies 2 female and 1 male, my other fish had no real symptoms other
then swimming upside down and eventually dying. My remaining mollies were
both pregnant several times but the male was very quick at eating the fry
straight from the oven so to speak! He eventually became lethargic and I
noticed (and through research) he had Camallanus worms and
shortly after the birth of 2 litters of fry the females finally showed signs
of it as well. 30 fry were in the tank and the male and eventually the 2
females passed away, over time only 2 of the fry survived.. eventually as
well the last of my “first” fish the Pleco died of Finrot… since then I have
only added 2 baby Plecos, one I had to put in because another of my tanks
got 2 cold in the garage (supposed to be hospital tank but the heater
couldn’t keep up with weather conditions) so I put the Pleco in the 37 gal.
the tank I have left alone to see if these 2 mollies would survive or show
any sign of the Camallanus it has been 2 months now and they seem to be
doing fine other then the smaller of the 2 mollies always had a real thick
white almost cylindrical something hanging from its anus… I have been
watching it closely and it was hanging out 1/8th to ¼ of an inch from its
body and yet feces was travelling through it.
<Reads like a prolapsed colon. Search this on WWM>
No change at all until this week when I noticed the thick white was now
getting longer and curving and bunching up underneath but not falling off..
today I noticed that the center of the white stuff is red (no sign of
Camallanus) and the outer part of the white looks almost cottony. My
question is .. because I have read that Camallanus reproduce through the
feces of infected fish could this be a sign that the mature Camallanus had
died off with the last of the infected fish and could this be the natural
reproduction cycle of Camallanus as I have read it takes several months to
<Possibly; but again, this brings to my mind the poor fish's alimentary
canal protruding out of the cloaca, rotting off>
Sorry about the long winded explanation figured you should know the history
of my tank (failures) again the tank is a 37 gal , bio wheel filter, ph
7.5-8, 0 nitrites, just over 80 nitrate,
<MUCH too high. Please read here:
and the Related FAQs linked above. You need to get this below 20 ppm...
there are ways detailed here to do so>
0 ammonia, 80 degrees F, 120 kH and 120 gH, I know my nitrates are high and
I am doing a 25% water change tonight to help lower it also I am attaching a
few pics of the fish in question..
<Need to crop, spiff and then send>
couldn’t get good focus on the blob but figured it might help. Should I
remove this fish all together to stop the respreads of Camallanus to be on
the safe side or could it be the fishes natural immune system killing off
<How did you treat for the roundworms?>
Since these fry were born in the infected tank my home town supply store
said they could have an increased immunity to Camallanus.
<Mmm; no such thing as far as I'm aware>
Thank you for any advice you can send my way!
<Welcome; steady on; you appear to have a good mind, steadfastness in your
favour. Bob Fenner>
Re: molly sick? 2/23/17
Hi and thank you for the reply.. the round worms I attempted to treat using a
pig dewormer in small doses soaked into their normal flaked food.
<Likely one of the anthelminthic compounds that are used for fishes...>
. I believe it slowed the growth of the round worms in the tank to allow the
fish time to react to it (and I know this was a long shot) but eventually they
all succumbed to the very hard to get rid of round worm, having no fish in the
tank to supply the worms with a host seemed to be my only course of action and
so far it worked, yay.
<.... Please read here Re Camallanus:
As far as my molly in question if you don’t think it could be “the return of the
round worm” then I will leave him alone and hope he gets better.. doesn’t seem
to affect him, he’s swimming eating and acting normal as compared to the other
molly, I resized and cropped the photos.. hopefully these pics will help you and
others determine what is wrong with their fish.
<Mmm; mollies are easily lost... for a few reasons. Try the search tool on WWM
to review. Bob Fenner>
And now, weird Molly behavior. Env. 6/17/16
Neale, I hope this finds you well.
<Likewise my reply, Tom.>
We have another problem - we have a Molly that is spending a lot of time
on the bottom. She'll occasionally sort of raise her head and shake it
back and forth and then stop and sit there for a while, until she does
<Shimmies. Quite common among Mollies, and indeed livebearers
generally, when stressed. Usually, fixing the environment will effect a
recovery. No medications as such required, but if there's
something else amiss, like odd
white patches on the body or sudden loss of weight, then treating as per
a bacterial infection is a good idea. If the only fish in the tank are
Mollies (or other livebearers) then adding salt, 2-3 gram/litre, can
help a great deal.>
She was doing that this morning then started swimming like a maniac,
sometimes stopping and wiggling. The male lyretail did that with her.
Now she's back on the bottom. Ok, Maria just opened the top to get some
water for testing and the Molly was up to the surface in a flash. Her
appetite has been... vigorous this whole time. She just acts funny when
she swims (swims into plant leaves, then backs up and swims around them)
and spends a lot of time just sitting on the bottom in out of the way
places. Poops a lot.
pH: 7.4 - 7.5
<What sort of hardness level? Mollies appreciate very hard water.>
<Still not zero! Mollies are super-sensitive to ammonia and nitrite in
Water gets 25% change weekly, but we haven't been adding bacteria to the
38 gallon tank with water changes.
We just don't know if she's even sick, just acting funny. We had one
Molly with some white spots that got lethargic and died and took another
well-loved fish with her. (We quarantined them, added some conditioner
and PimaFix for fungal infections, and the next morning the pH had
dropped from 7.4 to 5.8. Both fish died.) So we're a little skittish, I
So there's a lot of info. Any light you can shed on any of it, we'd
appreciate it. Thanks a lot!
<Hope this helps! Cheers, Neale.>
Re: And now, weird Molly behavior 6/17/16
Good info, as USUAL - thank you so much! Hardness might be a problem.
We have soft water. Would hard water be a
problem for the tetras and the platy?
<Platies will usually thrive in the same conditions as Mollies, though
Mollies do prefer more heat than Platies; Platies are optimally kept
around 22-25C/72-77F whereas Mollies are more 25-28C/77-82F sort of
beasts. But so far as water chemistry goes, both like hard, alkaline,
Tetras are predominantly soft water fish, with a few exceptions.
Generally not good companions for Mollies because of this. That said, it
will depend on your tetras. X-Ray Tetras, Black Widows, 'False'
Penguins, and Emperor Tetras will all do just fine up to 20 degrees dH,
PH 8, which is fine for Mollies. You can add baking soda, sodium
bicarbonate, to raise hardness. Do read:
Something like a half teaspoon baking soda per 20 litres/5 US gallons
would be about right. Use a test kit to check before adding any such
water to your aquarium.>
These will likely be the last mollies we get. Sheesh.
<As I've said many times, Mollies really aren't community fish and
shouldn't be sold/bought as such. They are very beautiful, yes, but
quite demanding. Kept on their own though they can look superb! Big
tanks with big groups are wonderful. Check out Liberty Mollies some
time. I saw a group of them in a single-species set up, designed with
lots of flat rocks for them to graze on. Really beautiful fish, and
patriotic too if you happen to live in a country with a red, white and
blue flag! Cheers, Neale.>
Oh, crap... 8/21/16
We got rid of the mollies. But there's still some ammonia in
the 38 gallon tank - less than 1, more than 0.5. It looks like a ghost
tank. We've lost two white skirt tetras, and now nobody is swimming.
<But no sign of Whitespot any more?>
Even the 12 neon are sitting towards the bottom in a clump, swimming a
bit, but low in the tank. The remaining white skirts just hang and our
platy is just sitting on the bottom.
<Do lower the water level a bit so there is more splashing. Is the water
moving briskly? Is the water too warm? The fish behaviour could be
related to low oxygen level. Review, and act accordingly.>
The pH is 7.2, no nitrites, a wee trace of nitrates, water is soft,
alkalinity around 80. We have added ammo lock and bacteria. I'm afraid
were going to lose the tank.
The other tank is fine, even though the ammonia has been higher. Could
our filtration be too weak? Gah!
<A typical community tank needs to have a water turnover rate around 6
times the volume of the aquarium per hour. So if you have a 38-gallon
aquarium, you'd buy a filter rated at 228 gallons/hour. You can find
this value on the filter pump or the packaging. Pretty much ignore
anything stating "suitable for tanks of 10-40 gallons" or whatever,
are really optimistic values assuming spotlessly clean filter media and
very low stocking densities of small fishes such as Neons or Guppies.
Much better to use the turnover rate. Provided you have that sort of
turnover rate, and assuming the media is appropriate (i.e., biological
filter media rather than, say, carbon), mature (over 6 weeks old) and
maintained (you don't clean the media under a hot tap) then the filter
should be adequate. Check the ammonia level of a sample of dechlorinated
tap water. If the ammonia level is identical, then the ammonia test kit
is probably picking up neutralised tap water ammonia or chloramine,
neither of which are a worry. I find nitrite test kits more useful
because they're less likely to be related to tap water, though
occasionally tap water does contain nitrite. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Oh, crap... it's ich 8/21/16
The white skirts have it. We see spots on their fins, looks like the
pics we've seen. Everything we see about all this stuff is contradictory
- one says do this, next one says do the opposite, third one says do
nothing. And thus all started with those mollies.
<Usually Whitespot gets into a tank via the addition of new fish. Once
eliminated, the aquarium is normally free from Whitespot until something
else is added from the pet store. If this was me, I'd be treating using
salt/heat, as described earlier, or else using a proprietary medication,
my personal favourite in terms of safety and value being eSHa EXIT.>
So, 38 gallon tank. Four white skirt tetras, twelve neons, one platy,
and a Pleco (algae eater). Live plants, which are replaceable. If you
can give me one suggestion, one plan of action, maybe we don't need to
turn the aquarium into a bookcase.
<See above. Assuming you don't have carbon in the filter, commercial
Whitespot medications are very effective. So is the salt/heat method if
done right (2 gram/litre of water; temperature up to 28 C). If Whitespot
is the issue here, either of these will fix it. Once that's done, your
aquarium should be parasite-free. As for the ammonia, do see my previous
email re: ammonia in tap water.>
Maria's doing multiple water changes to deal with spiky ammonia levels.
<Don't change more than, say, 10-20% per day. And if the filter is
basically functioning right and of adequate size, you should be able to
scale these back within a week to the usual 20% change per week.>
Down to 0.5 - 0.75, not zero, but low. This is supposed to be fun and
relaxing. �� Gah.
<It is fun and relaxing. Once a tank is set up properly and given
periodic water changes, fish are BY FAR the easiest and cheapest pets
around. Virtually no work. The problem is if the tank isn't quite right,
and more often than not, that's through setting it up wrong, such as
buying too many fish too soon, not getting compatible fish, etc. Still,
compared to a sick dog or cat, fish are cheap! Have you visited a vet
Sorry, and thanks.
Mollies... worms? Lernaea... ?
Hi there WetWeb crew. I have a tank with Mollies of various
breeds and ages. I noticed that a couple of my fish had Ick so I
turned up the temp to 82F, took out the activated carbon, and did an
ick treatment and repeated 48 hours after. Now I see the ick is
gone but it is replaced by these dark brown/red worms that are
attached to the fish's tail. I did another ick
treatment thinking it might work. What are these worms? Is my
tank done for? What can I do? Hope you can help,
<Are the worms attached to the tail fin, or are they emerging from
the anus, just in front of the anal fin? If the latter, these are
likely Camallanus. If just keeping Mollies, switching
to strongly brackish conditions should break the life cycle of either
worm type; perhaps one-quarter salinity initially, SG 1.006, about 9
grammes marine salt mix per litre of water. Cheers,
More re Mollies, worms 3/20/12
Another possibility: Lernaea. Read here re:
More re Mollies, worms 3/20/12
Another possibility: Lernaea. Read here re:
<Ah, do agree Bob, hence recommendation for strongly brackish water,
which should shift (almost) all kinds of external parasites… standard
operating practise on fish farms, with salt-tolerant Salmonidae,
Cichlidae. Even better, Jacquie, if Mollies can be moved to
half-strength or full-strength seawater for an extended period…
hours, days. Perhaps doable with buckets? This is one of the real
advantages of brackish water fish… the relative ease with which
external parasites can be controlled, eliminated. Cheers,
<<I do agree. Thought I'd add the poss. for review's
Re... FW worm poss. 3/21/12
Wow!! Thank you Bob and Neale I was not expecting such a response
from you and in such a timely manner. I can assume that if one
fish has these worms the rest of them probably have them too, I just
can't see them yet. The worms themselves are only on the fins
there are no sores or red spots or marks of any kind and there are none
coming from the anus.
<Do send along a well resolved pic please>
The ick is completely gone and I will put the carbon in
tomorrow. Now all I have is mollies (got rid of the golden
algae eater as per your advise) so can I just make their tank
heavily brackish rather than using a bucket?
<You could, yes>
I have a twenty gallon tank so how much salt, in tablespoons,
should I put in to make the salinity high enough.
<... please learn to/use the search tool/indices....
The tank itself is already semi-brackish I will just deduct how
much I have already put in to what you say. And how long do I
leave it like that?
Also what caused the worms to begin with? I have not bought
any new fish in well over a month. Was it the ick? Thanks
Re Mollie Worms 3/21/12
Hi, Jacquie here again. I just want to make sure I have this
conversion right. You said 9 grams per liter. I have a 20
gallon tank/ 75 liter. <So, 9 grammes x 75 litres = 675 grammes.
Sounds a lot, I know, but seawater contains 35 grammes per litre, so if
this was a marine aquarium, that'd be about 2.6 kg, well over 5 lb
for a 20 gallon aquarium! If you don't believe me, check out the
salt at your local retailer: a 3 lb bag makes about 10 US gallons. By
all means use the measurements on the marine aquarium salt package you
have. If it says it makes X gallons of water for a marine aquarium, you
want about 20-25% of that amount for X gallons of brackish water. Does
that make sense?>
So I am putting 675 grams of marine salt in my tank which is about 2
1/2 cups of salt.
<Yes, but NOT ALL AT ONCE! Make up a brine solution, adding the
required 675 g salt to, say, a couple litres of hot water. Stir it in
thoroughly; dechlorinate. Remove a couple litres of water from the
aquarium. Then, over the next couple of days, add portions of this,
maybe 10% every 2-4 hours, half one day, and half the next. That'd
give time for the aquarium filter to adapt. The fish couldn't care
less, but the filter bacteria might.>
It sounds like a lot but if you say its right I will do it! I
want to rid this tank of the worms. Thank you in advance.
<Most welcome. Cheers, Neale.>
Dalmatian Mollies, and assorted other queries... hlth.
Hullo, I would like to inquire about the usual coloration of Dalmatian
Mollies. I purchased three smaller ones, still babies really. One, the
male, is black with white flecks. The other two are most likely female
and white with black flecks. When I purchased them, they had gold
flecks as well, and while the flecks have not spread, or grown in any
way, I have become rather paranoid as to whether they have Velvet.
<Velvet is usually accompanied with "flashing", where the
fish flicks itself against solid objects. Also, fish with Velvet
commonly breathe heavily because the parasites infect the gills, often
before the appear anywhere else.>
There are also two larger Sunset Fire Platys.
<Do be aware that Platies require cooler water than Mollies, and
unlike Platies, Mollies generally do better in slightly saline
conditions; the two species make poor choices for the same
(One of which I fear is pregnant), neither of which have developed gold
flecks, nor came with them and the Platys and Mollies were in the same
tank at the Fish store. An additional inquiry; the male is apparently a
vampire, or zombie if that suits you. He was caught by mistake with the
two Platys and I took him as well because he is gorgeous. For two days
he was frisky, then to all appearances, died. He was motionless, and
wedged within a shell
in the tank.
<Moribund fish often drift into shells; take care not to assume he
got stuck and thereby became sick or damaged.>
When I went to remove him, he came back to life with a vengeance, and
for a day was active; then he 'died' again-to the point I
actually poked him and he did not move until I tried to remove him.
Then I purchased the two white-base Mollies, and he is now constantly
active and for all intents and purposes happy. (Though all three are
slightly neurotic when I turn the airstone off for any period of time
despite the adequate filter and many live plants for oxygen). Is there
a possibility to overcrowd a tank with Plants?
<Does depend on the plants. Biogenic decalcification can happen when
certain plants, e.g., Elodea and Vallisneria, are kept, and if
sufficient carbonate hardness is removed, pH will drop rapidly. Under
normal conditions plants have almost zero impact on how much oxygen
there is in the aquarium. The idea they are "oxygenators" is
an erroneous one; they are not, at least, not under aquarium
(other than the obvious being you cannot see into the tank-I do not
mean that many) I have two small fern (less than three inches high) and
a grouping of three or so large leafed plants about a palms height. If
my platy is pregnant, I intend to let nature have at with the fry, but
also want to give them a fighting chance as this tank is supposed to
mimic a natural setting to the best of my abilities. (I am working on
replicants of all my favorite diving sites and this is the first).
Needless to say, these plants are living. ~RJ
<Time to do some reading.
Molly with Velvet?? 5/26/2010
Hi I have a 26 gallon brackish water
<How brackish? Velvet, freshwater velvet at least, is not
especially salt-tolerant, though more so than Ick, and above SG
1.005 it is relatively rare. So one thing to check/do is raise
the salinity to SG 1.005 (9 grammes marine salt mix/litre) and
see what happens. Otherwise you'll have to use the standard
copper-based Velvet medications.>
tank with 1 full grown black male molly and about 20 fry. I also
have a 10g brackish quarantine tank that has a female black
lyretail molly (she is the mother of all the fry in both tanks)
and her 6 new born fry. I decided to separate the female because
I know she still has more babies to give birth to and the male
was chasing her and stressing her out.
<Keep at least 2 females per male.>
I had no choice but to put her in my q-tank, which now leaves me
no place to treat sick fish. Two days ago, I noticed my female
molly in the 10 g tank covered in gold. The fry seem fine and
have only the usual gold
coloring under their belly (they were born that way). I am
assuming it's velvet that has infected my female molly.. What
do you think?
<Velvet should be distinctive. Look for fine, icing sugar
particles, golden tint, heavy breathing because of gill
damage/infection, and periodic "flashing" as fish
scratch themselves against solid objects.>
She is still very active and eating well. I have no idea how this
happened...Anyways, I did a 50% water change, added Aquarisol to
treat for velvet, removed carbon, raised temperature to 84
degrees, and added extra salt.
<How much salt? And for what it's worth, there are strains
of Oodinium that are more tolerant of salt than others, and of
course there is a marine version of the disease that exists from
about SG 1.012 through to 1.025.>
She has shown no signs of progress. I am not experienced on
handling disease when it comes to fry. Is there anything else I
can do that will be safe for the pregnant molly & the fry?
Also, is it possible that this color
change could be a normal part of aging? Any input would be
Please help, I don't want to lose any of my fish. Thanks.
Re: Molly with Velvet?? 5/27/10
Thanks for the info. Ok, I originally had 1table spoon of instant
ocean marine salt (not sure if this contains Oodinium) per gal
and now bumped it up to 2.
<Tablespoons per what? Cup of water? Pint? Litre? Gallon?
Barrel? It makes a difference! One level TEASPOON is about 6
grammes, so 1.5 level teaspoons should be 9 grammes, and
that's how much you want to add per litre of water. If you
use gallons, there's 3.78 US gallons per litre.>
She does dart quickly; however, I removed all objects to avoid
injury from scraping up against anything.
Is Aquari-sol an adequate copper based treatment?
<Contains copper sulphate, so should be, if used
Also, the gold is not like a fine dust particle or crystal but
more like the scale color.
<Sounds like velvet.>
I've attached several photos since they may be able to give
you a better description of what I'm working with here.
<Too small to tell. Cell phones really aren't suited to
photographing microscopic organisms!>
Prior to 3 days ago, the female was solid black. Although, when I
first got her, I put her in a freshwater tank (ignorant to
brackish systems and so forth and she began having the symptom of
white spots) I moved her into the
10g and made that completely brackish and her symptoms subsided.
She has been in a brackish system now for about 2.5 months and
has been thriving.
This came up out of no where!
<My guess is that this system isn't as brackish as you
think, and that's allowed the Velvet to become established.
Ensure the salinity is 9 grammes per litre and see what happens.
Re: Molly with Velvet?? 5/27/10
Alrighty, I put 1 tablespoon per gallon,
<One LEVEL tablespoon is three LEVEL teaspoons, i.e., about 3
x 6 = 18 grammes. One gallon is 3.78 litres, so that's a dose
of 4.8 grammes per litre, about half as much as you need to treat
I thought I previously mentioned that, sorry.
Now, I have it at 2 table spoons per gallon.
<Closer to the mark. Honestly, this is easier in metric. So
can we do this in grammes per litre? There's a reason
scientists use the metric system!
It's easy! When you say spoonfuls, I have no idea if
you're using actual measuring spoons or mere cutlery, or
whether you're using them heaped or level. These things make
I would think this is sufficient for brackish systems??? Maybe
<For a brackish water system you'd be using marine salt
mix at a dose of between 6-9 grammes per litre, i.e., SG 1.003 to
I took the pics with a camera and uploaded them, I made them
small so that I could send all of them. I will try again now, so
that you can see
<You seem to have send 24 images. I don't have that kind
of time, and least not if I want to help other people here at WWM
as well, so I looked at the first two. Didn't really show me
clearly anything. It isn't obvious that this velvet from
those images, so do take some time to look at photos of Velvet
online, and compare against, for example, Slime Disease,
Whitespot, ammonia burns, and genetic changes in the colouration
of fish. Cheers, Neale.>
Molly with Velvet??? 5/27/10
Total of 37.85 litres (10g)
Total of 28.4 grams of salt (in the 10g tank)
approximately 1.33 grams of salt per litre.
<Not nearly enough to deal with Velvet, if that's the
These pics should show you more...sorry to waste your time and
I'm not trying to take time away from others.
<Not a problem. But one or two good images around 500 KB in
size is what we do specifically ask for. This time you sent 20 MB
of images! Apart from taking forever to download -- I gave up --
that blocks up our limited
e-mail mailbox space. Please, we have these very minor rules in
place for a reason, and not to be awkward.>
I'm just wanting to get a professional opinion. I'm
sending this to you from another email to see if this will do the
trick with viewing the pictures!
<See above. It's gone 10 PM here in England, and I'm
about ready for bed. Downloading just one of your 4 MB images was
taking forever, so I gave up. I'm not about to wait 10
minutes waiting for them to download... Forgive me.>
Thanks for the info.
<Glad to help. Cheers, Neale.>
Ich Advice, mollies,
more - 06/05/09
I have been reading your site very diligently over the past two days as
we realized two of our black mollies have ich. The information you have
provided and the q/a section has been very helpful. I am sure every
tank, like every fish has a different story and set of issues :-)
<As does every individual>
In our tank we have 4- 2 yr old silver mollies (not even an
1ï¿½), 3 large red Platies, 5 of their off spring and
then ~10 of their off spring (3 generations), also 2 pop belly mollies,
3 black mollies, two (heckle and
jeckle) yellow mollies, 3 baby swordtails, one beautiful
5ï¿½ rainbow shark
and ~15 more tiny babies of a mix (we thing black and yellow). Our tank
has been very ï¿½busyï¿½ as of late.
Anyways our tank heater failed a couple weeks ago and the water temp
spiked to almost 90 degrees (yikes). Now we have ich! Our water
chemistry is perfect! The Ph was a bit high but controlled that by
removing a piece of drift wood.
<Unusual... such material/s generally lower pH with their
From a treatment perspective we have done the following- removed the
carbon from the Whisper and canister filter, used Â½ of the
full dose of Para Guard from Seachem as only two of the black mollies
show spots and we don't want to kill the babies (I would rather
extend the treatment cycle than risk losing them). We have kept the
lights (compact florescent) off except for ~15 minutes to check for
spots daily, closed the curtains to eliminate more light, done ~50%
water changing using a gravel vac and have added the
recommended salt (done once so far). We are slowing raising the temp of
the tank from 74 to 84- should reach 84 by tomorrow night.
I am happy to say that the two fish that visibly had spots are looking
better, the babies and other fish do not look stressed although some
are spending more time near the top ï¿½ not sucking air
- how long do we continue this treatment?
<I'd treat at full dose, per the bottle recommendations>
- How often do we really need to do a water change/vacuum if our
chemistry is good (checking daily)?
<Not at all if so>
- Is there anything else we should be doing?
- Some say that we should stop feeding the fish during this process?
Rumor? I haven't read that on your site.
<I would continue to feed>
- Do we really need to keep the lights off (I miss watching the fish
Thank you very much for your time and input.
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Molly Question 03/26/2008 Hi I've got a 160ltr tank which
has been going for about 10 months now, it's got mollies, platys,
Endler's and guppies in it. I've had a issue before with
platy's dying from the skinnies, but I've never had a problem
with mollies before until now. <What's the
"Skinnies"?> I have 6 second generation marble mollies,
and over the last few days they have been feeling poorly with the
shimmers and tail fin clamping. Today they seem much better, they are
swimming around happily, eating and I haven't seen a shimmer in
over 24 hours. <Do check temperature and salinity, both key factors
with Mollies. Given you're keeping all livebearers together, adding
salt to this tank is easy and safe. I'd be going with 6 grammes per
litre of water, and use MARINE SALT MIX, not "aquarium salt".
The Mollies will be altogether healthier in every way, and the other
livebearers will appreciate the extra alkalinity. If you have a
hydrometer, what you're aiming for is a specific gravity of SG
1.003.> However on 3 of them I've noticed what appear to be 2
red spikes coming out of them. It's not fecal matter, it's
different to that, one of them it's coming from it's anus, but
the other two has it coming from higher up their bodies towards their
stomachs. Is this a normal thing? I've never seen it before.
<These are Camallanus worms, seemingly quite common among
livebearers in both the US and UK. So I'm guessing there's an
issue here with breeding and transport. In any case, you need an
anti-helminth medication. See here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwwormdisfaqs.htm > I'm
sorry if I'm being really stupid about this, I've have raised
them since birth and I really don't want to lose them now!
<Indeed!> Any help would be appreciated. Annabel <Cheers,
Hi, it's me again, the serial
Molly killer... 12/3/07 Hi Crew! <Ah, it's the Head Warden
at Molly Death Row again... Hello again, ma'am.> I've had
several long chats with some of you, the last few ones were with Neale.
All of my Mollies died of the same thing (7 so far), and the 8th is
most likely dying as we speak. They all had Callamanus worms, or
something that looks identical to every picture of Callamanus I've
seen. I've treated with PraziPro countless times, and it's not
working - or rather, it's not doing what it's supposed to.
<Sometimes this does happen. The basic thing with fish medication is
this: it's mild, and designed to treat what in human terms would be
considered 'outpatient' sicknesses. Very few fish medications
can deal with severe trauma or acute infections. That's just a fact
of life, and short of getting the "hard stuff" from a vet,
once fish diseases advance to a certain point, they often don't
make it, however much medicine you add to the tank. This underlines the
two Golden Rules that get stressed over and over: quarantine livestock,
and treat at the first sign of disease.> If I don't treat, I get
thin fish, shy fish, then dead fish. If I treat, they start pooing in a
corkscrew within a few hours, then after about a week I find them
heavily bloated upside down at the bottom of the aquarium. I learned
how to use clove oil and my freezer. <Oops.> My last survivor
came in as the aquarium was about halfway through a PraziPro treatment.
Then I retreated about three weeks later, just to be sure. She was
still fat and happy. No corkscrew poo, which usually shows up after a
few hours only, so I thought she was all right. Then about a month and
a half after that, she started hiding. I knew something was wrong, and
sure enough, a close examination revealed the presence of the
three-or-so usual small red threads in her anus. <Does indeed sound
like Callamanus.> Why? Everybody tells me that Prazi Pro is the
right treatment, but it ended up killing every fish I tried it on. My
theory is that the worms die inside of them and it makes them
constipated, and because of the dead worm they get an infection and end
up bloating and dying. <Sounds plausible.> Why, if I treated the
aquarium AND the fish twice already, are they still getting sick with
the same thing? Maybe the PraziPro is not effective on worm eggs? Or is
my bottle defective (I don't think so, or it wouldn't have an
effect at all, and this stuff does)? What is wrong? She's been
treated twice, and the aquarium too, she shouldn't still have them!
<In the UK, a drug called 'Flubenol 15' seems to be favoured
(in part because PraziPro is licensed for over-the-counter sale here).
Flubenol 15 is apparently a milder medication and takes longer to work,
but it causes less stress to small fish especially. The chief
side-effect of Flubenol 15 is that it kills practically all lower
invertebrates, not just tapeworms and nematodes. So if you have snails
in the tank, they'll die.> I've talked husbandry with Neale
before, and he agrees that what I do should be working. I have them in
brackish water, they eat mainly greens, I have no detectable nitrates,
etc. everything seemed fine when we talked about it. It's just this
worm thing! <All sounds perfect. In any case, I'd treat with
PraziPro (double dose!) or Flubenol 15 before adding any more
livestock. Keep the filter going by adding a pinch of flake every day
or so. The fish food will rot, and produce the required ammonia in the
process.> Any tips on trying to save the last one? I haven't
seen her poo for about three days, her anus is enlarged, and she's
mostly hiding, but she's still trying to eat even though she spits
out most of what she takes in her mouth... I have Metronidazole and
Furan at home, I even have Epsom salts, those are the things usually
recommended for bloat, but in this case, I'm not sure they'll
do much good... I just don't want to give up before the fish
does... <I think you're doing all you can. Short of Flubenol 15,
I don't see any other moves in this particular game. Mother Nature
won, and the worms have done their thing. You might also consider
getting your next batch of Mollies from another retailer.> Also...
what to do next? I don't really feel like buying any more Mollies.
I know the stock where we used to buy them are infected, I've
learned to recognize the signs by now - there are too many emaciated
Mollies in their tanks... we have a better supplier, but I'm afraid
that if I put fish in our tank they'll catch it again, even if
they're healthy to start with. <Spot on. This would be my worry,
too. At some point you have to draw a line.> Should I put the snails
and shrimp in another tank and just bleach the heck out of this one?
<Bleach might be overkill. I'd simply raise the salinity to
50-100% seawater. That'll kill any thing in the tank. Leave thus
for a week. You'll probably need to re-cycle the biological filter,
but since you already have another tank, that's a no-brainer: just
take some mature filter media out of the second tank and
'inoculate' this Molly aquarium. You can remove up to 50% of
the media in a mature filter without causing any serious problems.>
It seems a shame to kill off what we've built this year, but right
now we're going nowhere and I'm about ready to give up on
buying any more fish. Friends of mine have Platies... 29 in a 16 gallon
tank because they kept breeding, and breeding, and breeding, and she
kept saving them because she couldn't stand to see them eaten.
They're waiting for us to call them to take some of them off their
hands... I'm just afraid to kill them too, and if they're
coming from a friend, it's even worse! We're the ones who
taught them how to start an aquarium, and we can't even keep our
own fish alive!!! <I have to admit I've found a lot of fancy
Platies to be well below acceptable in terms of quality and longevity.
That said, good Variatus Platies especially are simply darling
animals.> Well... everything's not lost... The Betta is doing
beautifully in his own Eclipse III... If it weren't for this one
success, we'd have given up a long time ago... <It's just
one setback. Everyone has them. Even me! I can't keep Neons alive
however hard I try! They all seem plagued with Neon Tetra Disease here,
and the local hard water is the final nail in the coffin. So what you
do is pick yourself up, dust yourself off, say "Mollies aren't
for me" and move on to something else. Do check out some of the
'wild-type' livebearers, like Limia nigrofasciatus, Xiphophorus
xiphidium, Xiphophorus alvarezi, Micropoecilia picta or Xenotoca
eiseni. Because they're not so inbred they're much hardier, but
no more difficult to keep. And you get the joy of keeping fish that are
"out of the ordinary". Fish clubs are usually good places to
find sources of these species, though most aquarium stores can get them
if you ask.> Thank you all for your time, your understanding, and
your help. At least, with you, we might, one day, learn to reform our
ways and NOT kill our pets :-( Good night, Audrey <Aw, don't
sound so blue! Spend the time reflecting, reading, learning, and then
moving forwards! Cheers, Neale.>
Mollies with Ich and nitrites issue
-- 06/29/07 Hello Marco. <Hi Melissa.> Thank you so much for
your help. <You are welcome.> I'm sure you won't be
surprised to find out that the little guys now have ich, which I
noticed this morning. My frustration meter has just quadrupled, and
that's partially due to the fact that every website I look at says
something different about treatment. <There are several different
methods to successfully treat this parasite.> One thing after
another thanks to my lack of patience. Oh well, live and learn I
suppose. <Yes, and read.> Any suggestions? <Please read
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwich.htm and the linked FAQs
to learn about ich. For mollies a treatment with salt works well in my
experience. Rid Ich (Malachite Green and Formalin) may also work, but
may cause problems with your biological filtration. If you want to use
it, it'd be a good idea to put the filter into a bucket with
untreated tank water until the treatment is over. Water changes and
careful dosing will be needed, because you already have nitrites and
removing the filter will increase the need for dilution of the
nitrites.> I have Rid Ich, but I haven't used it yet because I
don't want to do anything else incorrectly. I feel so lost now,
with the nitrites, a crappily cycled tank, and now ich. Where should I
start? <Large water changes to get rid of the nitrites. For ich salt
or Rid Ich may work.> Sincerely, Melissa. <Good luck.
Mollie with internal parasites? -
4/6/07 Hi all! <<Hello, Audrey. Tom here. It's been some
time since we spoke.>> You helped get me started a few months
ago. Your site got me to amaze myself getting rid of an algae problem
by myself in two weeks. Thanks to your good counsels, we have a few
happy fish -- and a second tank that cycled in three days. All great so
far, until... <<Sounded great up until the
'until'¦', Audrey.>> Once again, I come to you
for help. <<Okay.>> One of our balloon Mollies started
losing weight. She's always been a real pig, very inquisitive and
somewhat odd. She ate so much I was afraid she'd get constipated
and die on us in the first few weeks we had her. I'd suspected
something was wrong with the other Mollie we bought at the same time,
but she'd always been very shy and scrawny so when she died I
thought I'd just inherited a balloon Mollie with bad genetics -
until the odd one started losing weight. <<More than coincidence,
I'd say.>> Last weekend, it got so bad I switched her over
from the main tank to the small tank so she could be on her own (with
the Apple snail). She was hanging at the top of the aquarium just below
the water line doing nothing and she was hiding from us, and eating
only a little. I did my research here, strongly suspected internal
parasites and then called a few local places. Our best supplier (sadly
they sell only saltwater) told us we could get Metronidazole at the
local pharmacy (they don't sell the medicated food around here
because of some silly rule the vets passed a few years ago).
<<Ah, those 'rules' again.>> I dissolved about 100
mg in a tiny bit of water and soaked some frozen bloodworms in it (her
usual Saturday treat, usually she gets Hikari flakes but soggy flakes
didn't seem like a good idea). She got two or three on Wednesday
morning and the rest on Wednesday night. She started swimming around
again in a few hours only. Major, immediate improvement. <<Good
to hear this.>> Now, it's Friday night and I'm worried.
She's swimming around and she's back to her odd, hungry self
but I can see two short, fine, reddish things sticking out of her anus.
<<My first thought would be Camallanus, Audrey, but it would be
an inappropriate 'jump' to draw an absolute conclusion about
this.>> I know Metronidazole shouldn't be administered
repeatedly, but in this case, is it indicated to try again?
<<There are varying reports on the efficacy of Metronidazole when
it comes to treating infestations of this sort. You might find
Praziquantel readily available to you and it's a safe, effective
treatment.>> She pooped a lot (well, what seems like a normal
amount for a Molly anyway) and the red things are still there. Will
they go away on their own or should I assume she still has something
living in her? <<They're still there and probably doing well,
unfortunately.>> If I do give some to her again, how much should
I use? Should I add some to the water as well? They do sell the Jungle
Labs parasite guard (the back of the bottle said not to use on food)
around here. I'm worried she'll re-infect herself eating her
own poo at the bottom of the tank. <<I'd shoot for the
Praziquantel here, Audrey. Overall, I think it would be the safest way
to go as well as being very effective. Hopefully, this medication
doesn't have the restrictions on it that you've run across in
the past.>> Thank you for your help. Worriedly, Audrey
<<Your concern is understandable, Audrey, but this is treatable.
Best of luck. Tom>>
Re: Molly with internal parasites?
4/19/07 Bonjour Tom! <<Bonjour, Audrey! Quoi
de neuf?>> So, you remember me from the chats we had in January -
yes it's been some time, because everything was going well :-) No
news in this case is good news... <<Glad to hear it.>> I
just wanted to let you know how things worked out. I did some poking
around and couldn't decide if I needed Praziquantel (per your
recommendation) or Levamisole (which was mentioned on a few sites for
Calamanus and similar problems). In any case, I couldn't find
Levamisole alone, so I went for the Jungle Labs medicated food, since
it contains the three most common anti-parasite medications.
<<Without belaboring it, Audrey, the Levamisole wasn't a
recommendation of mine for several reasons, not the least of which was
availability. Another is that it's a pain in the backside (if
you'll pardon the expression) to dose fish accurately with the
stuff. Fortunately, a little overdosing does not appear to have adverse
effects but the Praziquantel was definitely my first choice
here.>> Getting her to eat it was quite a challenge. We ended up
soaking the food and crushing it with a tiny amount of bloodworms.
Otherwise, she'd spit out every single bite she took.
<<Resourceful of you. Well done!>> And it made her poo like
crazy - crazy amounts and crazy colours too (alternating dark and pale
stripes, almost 3 inches long). <<Normally, I'd tell someone
that this was more information than I really wanted but, in your
case'¦ :) >> I'll try garlic this
weekend, maybe she'll like it (our Betta goes crazy over thawed
peas, but the Molly won't touch them - crazy animals). <<Peas
are not my favorite veggie either, I'm afraid.>> The label
says to feed three days in a row every week for four weeks. We've
done one three-day treatment. On the morning of the third day I could
still see the red worms. I don't know if they're still there
now. <<Good bet that if they were still there, you'd see
them.>> BUT, the good news is that she's totally, totally
CRAZY! She's dizzying. Up, down, through the castle, around the
thermometer, poking at the bottom, swimming backwards with nose
straight up looking for food in the floating plants, pulling
on the roots, playing in the current from the filter, or trying to eat
every single bit of floating stuff (mostly water lentil bits) that
happen to float by... She was like that when we bought her. She's
quite something. <<Sounds like it, Audrey. I could use some of
that energy myself!>> Oh, and she's interested in human
fingers again. A few days ago, she was running away from them. Sorry,
I'm babbling again. I just think they're all so endearing and
interesting... <<Babble away! I love the enthusiasm! It makes our
work all the more worthwhile when folks give us feedback like
this.>> All in all, I don't know if she's cured, but at
least it did *something* and she seems a lot better.
<<They're resilient creatures if we give them a fighting
chance. You've done well.>> So... "merci beaucoup"
for encouraging me. Now I just have to be patient and keep on treating
her on schedule! <<Je vous en prie! Important here to complete
the entire regimen of treatments. (Hard to fault a product, or
manufacturer, if we don't do as they ask.)>> Thanks again!
Audrey <<Thank you for the feedback, Audrey. Good to hear from
you again. Cordialement! Tom>>
Mollies Shaking - 01/27/2007 Hi
<Hello. Sabrina with you today.> We have a 40 Lt tank,
with guppies and mollies. Most of the fish were born in our tank. Two
of the black marble mollies (I think females but they are still a bit
small to be sure) have this weird behaviour, they swim to the bottom
section of the tank, in the corner and face down they shake their
bodies - this can last for about two to three minutes a time and they
do it approximately every 5 -- 10 minutes. They appear otherwise
healthy, as do the other fish in the tank. What could be the reason for
this behaviour? <In my experience, this "shimmy" has
usually been indicative of a "skin slime" parasite - Costia, Childonella, Icthyobodo.... Other symptoms, though harder to
see, would include occasional clamping of the fins and a slight
"film" or "cloud" to the skin and
fins. I have also been of the understanding that this
"shimmying" can be due to a lack of electrolytes or salts in
the water. If guppies and mollies are all you have, I'd
try adding one to two tablespoons of aquarium salt per five gallons of
water (12 to 24 grams per 19 liters). This amount of salt
will not be harmful to either guppies or mollies and will actually be
quite beneficial to both. This *may* also help if it is in
fact a "skin slime" parasite, but if the symptoms persist
after some days, or if the symptoms worsen and the fish get notably
"sick", you might consider treating with an anti-protozoan
medication. Of course, this part goes without saying, but
I'd better say it anyway: Be sure to keep ammonia and
nitrite at ZERO and nitrate below 20ppm with regular water changes.>
Thanks for the great information you supply on your site. <I'm
glad you've found it useful, thanks!> Steph <All the best to
Mollies W/Ich 11/04/03 <Hi, Pufferpunk
here> First, let me say WOW! what a great web-site. I have
learned so much since finding your site. Thank you! <Thanks
for the compliment!> My question is, how old do baby mollies
need to be before you can treat them for ich? The fry are about 1 week
and 3 days. There are 13 of them in a 5 gallon tank. I removed them
from the main tank because I noticed ich on the mother and 1 guppy. In
the main tank are 1 molly (used to be 2, another female lost her after
birth), 3 guppies (1 male, 2 female). So far my method in
the fry tank has been to keep the water temp at 80 F. Keep the
tank lights off and put in 1 Tablespoon of salt. That seemed to help,
most of the white spots are gone, but a couple of the fry still have 1
or 2 spots. <I personally don't use any meds for the
treatment of ich. I would think newborn fish would not fair well w/any
kind of meds. Here is the info I have printed on ich at my puffer
website. The same goes for any fish. If some morning you get up
and it looks like someone has salted the body, fins, and gills of your
fish, you are looking at "Ich", sometimes called ick, or
white spot disease. "Ich" is a protozoan parasite with the
scientific name of Ichthyophthirius multifilius. It is the largest of
the ciliated protozoans. It is easily introduced into your tank by new
fish or equipment or plants that have been moved from one tank to
another. A quarantine tank is the best way to prevent introducing this
parasite into your display tank. If you see ich on your fish they
should be treated immediately. In heavily stocked tanks it can cause
massive death rates within a very short period of time. Some symptoms
before white spots appear may include flashing, clamped fins, weakness,
loss of appetite, and decreased activity. In the case of heavy gill
infestations, you may not see evidence of white spots, but may find
your fish breathing heavily at the surface of your tank. Secondary
bacterial and respiration difficulties may result, so keep an eye out
for complications in addition to the ich infection. The
best way to prevent ich, as I stated above, is to quarantine all
incoming fish. A minimum of three weeks in quarantine (in my opinion)
is the best way to go. When kept at 76 to 83 degrees, incoming fish
that have been exposed to ich may show symptoms within the first 3
days. However, at cooler temperatures, ich outbreaks may take longer to
show up because of its lengthened life cycle. Water temperature has a
tremendous effect on how fast the life cycle of ich is completed. At
water temperatures of 75 to 79 degrees F, the life cycle is completed
in about 48 to 72 hours. In water temperatures below 75, it takes much
longer for the parasite to complete its life cycle. LIFE
CYCLE: There are three phases to the life cycle of this protozoan.
Ich is susceptible to treatment at only one stage of its life cycle, so
knowing the life cycle is important. ADULT PHASE: the
parasite attaches itself under the mucus layer of the skin or gills,
causing irritation and the appearance of small white spots. As the
parasite matures, it feeds on blood and skin cells. After some time,
the parasite breaks through the mucus layer and falls to the bottom of
the aquarium. CYST PHASE: after falling to the bottom of
the aquarium, the adult cyst bursts and divides into numerous daughter
cells called tomites. FREE SWIMMING PHASE: after the cyst
phase, the free swimming tomites search for a host. If a host fish is
not found within 2 to 3 days, the parasite dies. Once a host is found
the whole cycle begins again. These three phases take about 28 days at
70 degrees F but only 3 days at 80 degrees F. For this reason it is
recommended that the aquarium water be raised to between 80-86 degrees
F. for the duration of the treatment. If the fish can stand it, raise
the temperature to 86 degrees. Raising the aquarium temperature in this
manner will shorten the length of time between the cyst phase and the
free swimming tomite stage. It is during the free swimming tomite stage
that chemical treatment is effective in killing the parasite. During
this time, whatever you use for treatment should be supplemented with
daily or every other day water changes and gravel vacuuming to remove
as many adult cysts and free swimming tomites as possible.
TREATMENTS: Before starting treatment you should do at
least a 25% to 30% water change and vacuuming of your tank. I do
not like to use meds w/my puffers, except in a heavy infestation.
One tablespoon of salt per 5 gals. of aquarium water, gradually raising
the temperature to 86 degrees F. This is good if you have to treat BW
fish who actually like salt as part of their aquarium habitat. Continue
with this for a period of 21 days. Adding back 1 Tablespoon of salt for
every 5 gals of aquarium water that you remove during water changes.
One thing to remember with high temperatures is that you should run an
additional air stone to oxygenate the water. There is less dissolved
oxygen available in warm water than there is in water at cooler
temperatures.> Thank you so much for your time, Jen
<You're welcome & good luck. It sounds like your mollies are
on their way to being healthy, well cared for little fishies! --
Ich and Black Mollies (04/03/03) Hi, <Hi! Ananda here
tonight; the mollies are in the other room...> I recently got 6
black mollies. In a few days one female had gotten a spot
near its top fin. It became more pronounced and I even
noticed its gills became shiny. I decided to
"cull" the ill fish as to protect the others.
<That probably wasn't necessary... it is very easy to treat
mollies with ich. Just add salt to their water: - siphon off about a
gallon or so of tank water, depending on the size of the tank - add the
salt -- maybe 1/4-1/2 cup of marine salt, depending on the size of the
tank - mix well - slowly pour salty water into tank The reason this
works is that parasites are much less tolerant of changes in salinity
than your mollies.> I want to transfer the rest to my main tank but
worry they may bring the illness with them. Is it contagious? <It
is. But it is easily eradicated from a quarantine tank.> I have been
putting in half the recommended dose of Formalin at night and the rest
of the fish show no signs (yet). How long should I leave
them there to make sure it will not infect the main tank? <Ich has a
life cycle of about a month. I would wait a minimum of two or three
weeks after the last signs of ich are gone.> I have Platy fry in the
main tank in a nursery and would like to transfer them to the smaller
tank where the mollies are. The fry are about a week
old. Will they be affected by the trace Formalin or the
traces of Ick that may be in the smaller tank? <Quite possibly. But
if you can salt the smaller tank, you can avoid the problem. Platies
are also amenable to salt, though I don't believe they can tolerate
as much salt as the black mollies, who can even be kept in full marine
tanks.> Any suggestions will be appreciated. Thank you in advance
for your prompt response. Kevin <You're welcome.
Sick Mollies Ok... I just noticed the spots on two Mollies in
my fish tank today. I introduced a new Molly six days ago. That one was
a birthday gift for my four year old. I can't kill these fish they
are his babies. I tested the ammonia, pH, and nitrates about a week ago
and everything checked out ok. I checked them today and the
ammonia and pH spiked bad and the nitrates are perfect. I just did a
25% water change and put Wardley WaterCare Ick Away in my tank with a
half dose of ammonia eliminator as per the pet store. I didn't
realize till after I put in the ick away that it says don't use
with tetras and I have two of those too. AM I GOING TO KILL THEM?
<These medications that are based with malachite green are very
toxic to tetras, catfish and some loaches. You probably have introduced
ich into your tank with the new molly.> The tetra's don't
have spots but cant they still be affected by the Ich if the other fish
have it in the same tank? < They will get it too . They are just not
showing any symptoms yet.> I do have a fish bowl I could move them
to but I am new to this and I just don't know... could someone
please hurry and tell me what I am doing wrong, or right for that
matter, to my poor fish? < You could add some carbon to the filter
and that would remove it too. Do a 30% water change, vacuum the gravel
and change the filter. Once the medication is gone I would get some
rid-ich II by Kordon that is especially formulated for sensitive fish.
Follow the directions on the package. After treating I would add carbon
to remove the medication and then add some BioSpira to get the bacteria
going for the nitrification process. Go to Marineland.com and see Dr.
Tim's Library for an article titled " The First Thirty
Days" for info on the ammonia problems.> The infected ones also
lay a lot on the bottom of the tank and only get up to say hi when I
open the lid cause they are such cute friendly fish... I'd really
hate to lose them :(. Please help me with any ideas. It's a ten
gallon tank been running about two or three months. Total of three
little mollies two little tetras and a little algae eater. Plants,
rocks, etc. It has a bio filter wheel thing, do I need to do anything
to that since I don't believe it has charcoal? <Remove the
BioWheel when medicating so it does not kill the good bacteria on the
wheel. Store it in a damp wheel in a container with aquarium water. You
can also get rid of the ich by increasing the water temp to 82 degrees
for awhile. It sometimes stresses the fish so you need very good
Vertical swimming mollies Hello, I hope you can
help, I have read everything I can find and just don't know what is
wrong. I have a 55 gal tank with 1 swordtail, 2 platies, 2 Plecos, 2
Cory cats, 1 Bala shark, 1 painted glass, 2 balloon bellied mollies, 2
black mollies, 2 silver mollies. I do a 25% water change approx every
2-3 weeks. The problem begins with the fish body becoming curved, they
swim around shaped like a comma, tail pointing down, like they are
dragging their tail end around. <Not good> Within days they are
swimming straight but vertically, head up. Then they die within a
matter of days. I have had this problem for the last 2 months approx,
and have treated with PimaFix numerous times <Worthless> ...and
changed water numerous times. I have had my water tested and ammonia,
nitrates, ph, everything shows good and safe. Is this a bacteria or a
parasite? I have lost many fish to this and have 2 that are swimming
this way now. Please help!!!! <Actually very likely a microsporidean
endoparasite... You might be able to cure this with the use of
Flagyl/Metronidazole. Please see your LFS re this material and
administer per directions on the box, inserts. Bob Fenner>