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FAQs about Mussid Coral Disease Diagnosing

FAQs on Mussid Disease: Mussid Disease 1, Mussid Health 2, Mussid Disease 3, Mussid Disease 4, Mussid Disease 5,
FAQs on Mussid Disease by Category:
Environmental (Pollution/Poisoning, Lighting...), Nutritional, Social (Allelopathy), Trauma, Pathogenic (Infectious, Parasitic, Viral) Predatory/Pest, Treatments 

Related Articles: Coral Pests and Disease; pests, predators, diseases and conditions by Sara Mavinkurve, Mussid Corals

FAQs on Stony Coral Disease: Stony Coral Disease 1, Stony Coral Disease 2, Stony Coral Disease 3, Stony Coral Disease 4, Stony Coral Disease 5, Stony Coral Disease 6, Stony Coral Disease 7, Stony Coral Disease 8, Stony Coral Disease 9, Stony Coral Disease 10, Stony Coral Disease 11, Stony Coral Disease 12, Stony Coral Disease 13, Stony Coral Disease 14, Stony Coral Disease 15, Stony Coral Disease ,
FAQs on Stony Coral Disease by Category: Diagnosing: Environmental (Pollution/Poisoning, Lighting...), Nutritional, Social (Allelopathy), Trauma, Pathogenic (Infectious, Parasitic, Viral) Predatory/Pest, Treatments 
FAQs on Stony Coral Disease by Family: Acroporid Disease, Acroporid Disease 2, Acroporid Disease 3, Acroporid Disease 4..., Caryophyllid Disease, Caryophyllid Disease 2..., Elegance Coral Disease/Pests, Dendrophylliid Disease, Faviid Disease, Faviid Disease 2, Fungiid Disease, Mussid Health 2, Poritid Health, Trachyphylliid Disease, Trachyphyllia Disease 2,
FAQs on Stony Coral Disease by Type: Brown Jelly Disease,

Brown discoloration on brain coral        12/21/15
<Why send four megs of uncropped pix? What are our requested limits?>
Hi Again! Looks like I need your thoughts here. I have had this red brain coral for about a year and he has been thriving. Recently I have noticed some brown discoloration. He still expands fully. Is this the start of brown jelly disease?
The yellow leather above has been getting huge and is now partially shading him a bit.
<Ahh! Much more likely an allelopathogenic effect from the Alcyoniid then.... see WWM Re; separate the two more, use chem. filtrants, improve ORP/RedOx....>
Or are my halides too intense for him?
Thanks for any input. My water parameters are excellent. I am pretty obsessive with maintenance and testing. I would be shocked if it were a water quality issue.
<Not likely>
<Bob Fenner>

Re: Brown discoloration on brain coral       12/21/15
Thank you! I'm relieved. Sorry about the pic size.
<Ahh! This requirement, request is posted on where folks find to write us>
It was not my intent to overload. I'll figure that out for next time! Not tech savvy :-(
<Appreciate your self-effacement. Cheers, BobF>

Dying Coral? A joke? No data of use or reading 6/27/10
I am not really sure exactly what type of coral this is.
<...? Looks like a "melting Mussid" of some sort... perhaps a Lobophyllia sp.>
I have had it for about a year and it has always been beautiful. The last week however it has really started to droop badly.
I have read that corals droop like this when they are stressed,
<... to the point of dying>
but I don't know what is stressing it. It was located near a spot where I had recently placed some new stuff
and I thought that may be the problem, so I moved it up higher in the aquarium so it would get more light and airflow, but so far it isn't helping.
<What? Is this a joke? Really? Read on WWM re the family, allelopathy. Bob Fenner>

Melt down!

Re: Dying Coral? Mussid... 6/27/10
Maybe I am just stupid, but I really do not understand your response. I have looked on your website and the only thing I find that may help is that maybe I need to move to coral to where there is less airflow, but as far as what is causing my problem I am still at a loss.
<... what? Again... is this a joke? B>
Re: Dying Coral?
This is no joke and I am getting a little annoyed. I am looking for help in keeping my coral healthy.
<Please see re the family... Mussidae.... on WWM. B>

Coral problem, lack of data, reading 1/23/10
Hi Crew,
Thanks to you all, I always can find an answer to any questions I have.
This time I got a problem with my LPS. I had it I'm my tank for about 8 months and it was doing good : reacting to target feeding, normal day/night contractions, was growing slightly too .
<Lobophyllias are typically tough, given basic conditions, care>
I target feed my corals about 3 times a week, partial water change 2 times a week, water parameters are OK.

Last night it did not respond to feeding, and this morning I noticed a hole where was its mouth. I'm sure it was not there last night. What it could be?
<Indication of...?>
How can I solve the problem? Everything else is doing well. Even I got Goniopora sp. growing from nowhere on my live rocks.
Thank you very much for all your help to hobbyists like me.
Best regards,
<Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/mussiddisfaqs.htm
and the linked files above, to give you input, background into the types of information we're looking for. Bob Fenner>

Re: coral problem, Lobo... 1/24/10
Hi Bob,
Thank you for the link. It is helpful. I am just so stupid to find out how to insert my input there.
Best regards,
<Umm, get some help. Really. B>

Troubled over moon brain coral 03/24/08 Hi Crew, I have a quick question. I am actually fairly new at having a reef system. I have a 55 gal. tank and I purchased a piece of moon brain coral I believe it to be about 7 months ago. <This is a Mussidae sp., not usually called "brain coral." They're usually called "brain corals." Please see here: http://www.asira.org/lobophylliasymphylliaothermussideans  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/mussidae.htm > I've attached a photo. When I brought it as you can see it seem to be health. However, as of about a couple of weeks ago I got to noticing how bad it was looking started to turn red/brown color looking. <Hmm, darkening in color is necessarily a sign of declining health.> Just over two days ago after I did a water change and system clean it has had a hole to develop in the middle of it. <Are you sure this isn't the "mouth" of the polyp gapping?> I have gave it live marine phytoplankton, <This is good for your tank life in general, but doesn't directly feed this coral (feeds it more indirectly).> moved it under the rock to the shade more as well as feeding it frozen foods, about once a week (as I have been doing since purchase). What I need to know if I should be worried about possible other reef I have introduced into my tank has caused to go down hill. <I'm not entirely convinced it is going down hill. Can you take a picture of what it looks like now?> The last thing I put in was some sun coral and mushrooms and two anemones this was several months after I had purchased this piece of brain coral? And what possible I could do to nurse it back to health? And should I move to another tank? If you could get back with me with a answer that would be awesome. <Again, I could probably help you more if I were more sure of if there is actually anything wrong (pic would/will help).> Thanks for your help
<De nada,
Sara M.>

Sara... you've got to move the files... RMF

Blastomussa wellsi Troubles 2/18/06 Hello. I (as the title says) am having some troubles with a Blasto Wellsi I recently purchased. I bought it about a week ago and placed it in the bottom of the tank in low flow and low light. For the first few days, it opened fully and looked great. But then on about the third day, it didn't open completely. Day by day, it's been opening less and less. I wouldn't be worried so much about it, but this is the exact say way my last Blasto Wellsi colony died last fall. I was never able to figure out then why it died and finally decided it was probably caused by something that happened before I bought it. Now I'm not so sure. I have since lifted it up on to a small piece of pvc in the corner to keep it away from the hermit crabs (they have a knack for annoying new corals sometimes). <In addition to hermits, do consider your fish, especially pygmy and dwarf angels and blennies.  You may have to observe very carefully to notice them picking at the coral.  Also, in my experience, these corals are very sensitive to water quality especially those parameters that can't be measured, like the noxious defensive chemicals of other corals.> The lighting is two 96W PC 12 hours a day on a 45 gallon tank. It's been set up for about a year now. As for water conditions, they're fine (78 degrees; S.G. 1.025; 0 Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, Phosphate; Calcium 430) as they have always been, and no other corals (including many zoos and Shrooms, a few LPS and SPS, and some rather large softies) are showing any signs of trouble. <What about alkalinity?  Without proper alkalinity, calcium is unusable to corals.  Also, Zoanthids, mushrooms and softies are all good candidates to produce harmful allelopathic chemicals that my be harming the Blastomussa.> Nothing has been done since I received the coral that would change water clarity (water changes, cover glass cleaning, new bulbs, carbon, etc.). I think that's all the info I can offer.  Thank you, Kevin <You can try running some carbon to help reduce the defensive chemicals from the other corals and please do measure alkalinity regularly and correct if low.  Hope this helps.  Best regards.  AdamC.>

Lobophyllia tissue recession 3/31/05 Hello, I have a Lobophyllia spp. For 2 months and never has been very healthy, firstly started with a small body reduction in the upper part (it was inclined in the aquarium) so I moved it down. But 2 weeks ago it started to have a severe body depletion, I have read different articles about corals, bleaching etc and I would like to know if I should move it down a bit more or any other tip. Thanks very much.  <"Tissue recession" is the most common term for this. Bleaching refers to the loss of Zooxanthellae (symbiotic algae) and color from otherwise normal healthy tissue. Lobophyllia is quite adaptable to different lighting conditions, but in my experience it is quite sensitive to water quality and the defensive chemicals produced by other corals. I would suggest thoroughly testing your water and making sure the following parameters are in the proper range: pH 8.0-8.4, Alkalinity 2.75-4.0 mEq (9-12 dKH), Salinity 1.025, Calcium 350-450, temp 79-82. If you have soft corals (especially leathers or mushrooms), it would be a good idea to run small amounts of carbon and change it weekly and perform 20% monthly water changes. Best Regards! AdamC.>

Candy Cane Coral 3/8/04 Hi Bob, <Anthony Calfo in his stead> Thanks for the help with the candy cane coral so far.  I have searched the web and the FAQs for... too long.  I am meeting with a man tomorrow about purchasing a candy cane coral.  I noticed that the color is usually a brown or a green.  I am concerned when I met with this guy that I will not know whether it is healthy or not.  Could you please give me some pointers as to color, and basic appearance so that I get a healthy specimen. <it's tough to summarize in the brevity of an e-mail. Obvious factors to look for would be any recession of tissue, exposed corallum ("skeleton"), excessive mucus. But before you buy any coral without knowing how to assess health, please, please, please invest in a good book or two. John Tullock, Eric Borneman and, if I may say so, my works on corals are easy to read, popular and informative. For corals with pictures... I can recommend Eric B's "Aquarium Corals" as your first choice. Please make the responsible choice and do not buy any animal without knowing how to care for it first. Caulastrea (candy cane coral) is fairly hardy and easy to keep, but requires feeding weekly or more often, and will not acclimate easily to very bright halide light> Thank you very much, Todd Hawman I should have included a picture of what was posted on the net by the seller. http://www.buysell.com/bestoffer/viewoffer.asp?id=26121043 this is the address to the picture he provides....not sure if it is actually his.  Please help!!   <the picture/coral is odd... appears to be healthy, but the polyps have an inflated look. May simply be a photo soon after a feeding> Also if this is a healthy coral... should I start acclimation (in terms of lighting) very near the bottom on rock??  I have a 90 gallon tank... 24" deep and have a 4 foot 32 watt fluorescent light.  Thank you very much. Todd Hawman <keep this coral in the top 1/3 of your tank. Fluorescent lights may be good quality but they are weak (unable to penetrate water at depth). I do have an article here on WWM specifically on "acclimating symbiotic reef invertebrates" to new lights. Do seek it (use the Google search tool at the bottom of the index/home page). Best of luck, Anthony>

Bubbles in my Brain!!! (air trapped in coral tissue) 4/19/03 ok.. I attached a photo, but this morning is the first time I've seen this occur on my Lobophyllia.. it looks almost as if there are air bubbles inside the flesh of the brain coral.. <there are several possible reasons for this not entirely uncommon occurrence. In the safest/simplest circumstance... some corals simply "eat" air bubbles (or are fed it trapped in food). As strange as it might sounds... the deliberate ingestion is done by some of the more heavily mucous species for the purpose of capturing food and elements such as proteins that are attracted to the air bubbles (Yes... indeed like the organics "stuck" to air bubbles in protein skimmers). In these cases though... the tiny air bubbles are easily purged. When they are large and apparent as in your case here... it leads me to believe one of two things... forced ingestion of an inappropriate food (freeze dried foods for example... that have much air trapped inside)... or stress. The former is self-explanatory... and the coral is likely to expel it in time, although you don't want to make that a habit! In the case of a stress induced symptom here... there are a few things it could be... and neither are good. The first is over stimulation (over-driving/photoinhibition) of corals by light that is too much or on too long (for this species if only in the tank). New bulbs, cleaned lamps, improved water clarity (carbon used after an absence), etc... all are things that improve or increase the quality of light and cause the Zooxanthellae to work overtime to the extent that they produce oxygen inside Cnidarian tissue that cannot be processed fast enough. The other possibility is supersaturation of the water with oxygen by a leak in the plumbing (causing the aspiration of air to super-sat-levels)... OR... the inappropriate addition of hot water to cool water (during a water change or evap top off) to make "warm" water which drives the O2 out of solution quickly (the reverse of super-saturation). This can occur right within the corals tissue just like divers that get the "bends" from nitrogen. Not good at any rate.> it's been fine up until now and the only thing that is changed is that I fed it chunks of krill last night before I went to bed.    <no worries unless the krill was freeze dried or any food that floats that world indicate trapped air> is this something I should worry about? or take caution of? <perhaps... do consider the above possibilities and why it may have occurred> another thing I was wondering was that I have a large toadstool leather that stopped opening during the day... I've noticed polyp extension at night about an hour after the lights go off, but other than that it fully expands during the day.. just that there's no polyp extension. <interesting... generally not a big deal (they do not feed organismally with their tiny polyps by much. However... in light of the Lobo's symptoms... the polyps shutting down early does indicate a possible lighting problem. Are you one of those kooks using 400 watt halides on a 20 gallon aquarium <G>? Perhaps have your lights on too long (over 8-10 hours on MH... or over 12-14 on fluorescents). Perhaps changed to brand new bulbs recently? Hmmmm... many possibilities here.> I'd really appreciate any information. Jonathan <best regards, Anthony>

Air Bubbles in Coral Tissues ("Bubbles in my Brain") 4/19/03 thanks for the response.. it makes sense on the light stimulation... he had just been recently moved to a higher point in the tank.. but has since been moved into another tank in which his air bubble situation returned to normal.. <ahhh, yes... very plausible and consistent with our theory. Great to hear that your brain is not so gassy <G>. FWIW... corals that express such symptoms (air bubbles from excess light as with sudden move to higher point) can in fact acclimate to the new higher position in time... they just need to be acclimated slower to prevent the air bubbles from forming. Use the screen method (suggested in my articles here on WWM and beyond) to adjust the coral to brighter light over a period of a couple weeks> and I almost forgot to add.. I LOVE your coral propagation book.. the wealth of information is priceless and I've been looking for a book exactly like this for years. Jonathan <thanks kindly, my friend! Best of luck to you in your endeavors. Anthony>

Problem with Lobophyllia Dear Bob, As always, thanks so much for this great site. I have another question that I'm sure you can answer. <I will try> Last Tuesday, I received my order of a Lobophyllia hemprichii (red brain coral) and a Euphyllia glabrescens (torch coral) from a dealer that is well known and, supposedly, very well respected in the trade. When I removed the torch coral from its bag, I could see nothing but the white skeleton and a few places where the polyps were supposed to extend. After two days of waiting, as instructed by the dealer, the polyps never came out and they just became shriveled and died. That must have been RTN. <Maybe> As for the brain, it has not died, but I am very concerned about it. When I first received it, I placed it in the bottom of my 90-gallon tank and even shaded it from the VHO lighting for some time. The coral opened some during the day, but when it retracted, a large part of the skeleton was exposed. In fact, the "spines" show when the coral is contracted. <This happens with new specimens> According to our research, the coral should be of such a size that no part of the skeleton should ever show and that the whole coral should look more robust. The coral we received looks so "thin". When it's expanded, there are pinpoint places that are depressed; and the flesh looks "corroded". The color is rust red now; it may have been darker and lost some of it's color, but that is hard to determine. At times, the coral would expand when the main aquarium pump was turned off, while at other times it would expand when the pump was turned on. The coral gives off this rust-colored cloud when the pumps are turned off. This morning it looked better; however, when I turned off the main pump it retracted and gave off its rust-colored matter. The dealer says in their literature that this coral would "slough off" some when first introduced, but it seems to be sloughing off its flesh and deteriorating. The aquarium is a 90-gallon reef with all parameters at or near perfect reef readings. We have a 30-gallon sump, Turboflotor skimmer, Aqua UV sterilizer, and a water turnover rate of about 10 times per hour. Other inhabitants look great. There is not a heavy bio-load as there is just a purple tang, a peppermint shrimp, some mushrooms, a purple blade, some snails, and a few scarlet hermit crabs, and three sand sifting starfish. All water is purified by Kold Steril. I added vitamin C and some trace elements (Vital Gold) by Thiel, along with Coral Vital by Marc Weiss. Any thoughts? Thanks for any help you can give. Regards, Michael Rivera <Per the descriptions of both newly arrived specimens, it does seem like they were either "in the bag" too long, or suffered some other sort of shipping insult (chilled, overheated... delayed in transit...). At any length, you can just wait at this point and hope that they will regenerate. Nothing in your description points to a difficulty in your system or handling... Bob Fenner>

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