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FAQs about Mussid Coral Health/Disease, Pests 3

FAQs on Mussid Disease: Mussid Disease 1, Mussid Health 2, Mussid Disease 4, Mussid Disease 5,
FAQs on Mussid Disease by Category:
Diagnosing, Environmental (Pollution/Poisoning, Lighting...), Nutritional, Social (Allelopathy), Trauma, Pathogenic (Infectious, Parasitic, Viral) Predatory/Pest, Treatments 

Related Articles: Coral Pests and Disease; pests, predators, diseases and conditions by Sara Mavinkurve, Mussid Corals,

Related FAQs: Mussids 1, Mussids 2, Mussid Identification, Mussid Behavior, Mussid Compatibility, Mussid Selection, Mussid Systems, Mussid Feeding, Mussid Reproduction, Stony/True Coral, Coral System Set-Up, Coral System Lighting, Stony Coral Identification, Stony Coral Selection, Coral Placement, Foods/Feeding/Nutrition, Disease/Health, Propagation, Growing Reef Corals, Stony Coral Behavior,

Coral problem, lack of data, reading 1/23/10
Hi Crew,
Thanks to you all, I always can find an answer to any questions I have.
This time I got a problem with my LPS. I had it I'm my tank for about 8 months and it was doing good : reacting to target feeding, normal day/night contractions, was growing slightly too .
<Lobophyllias are typically tough, given basic conditions, care>
I target feed my corals about 3 times a week, partial water change 2 times a week, water parameters are OK.

Last night it did not respond to feeding, and this morning I noticed a hole where was its mouth. I'm sure it was not there last night. What it could be?
<Indication of...?>
How can I solve the problem? Everything else is doing well. Even I got Goniopora sp. growing from nowhere on my live rocks.
Thank you very much for all your help to hobbyists like me.
Best regards,
<Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/mussiddisfaqs.htm
and the linked files above, to give you input, background into the types of information we're looking for. Bob Fenner>

Re: coral problem, Lobo... 1/24/10
Hi Bob,
Thank you for the link. It is helpful. I am just so stupid to find out how to insert my input there.
Best regards,
<Umm, get some help. Really. B>

Scolymia australis tissue receding -- 01/17/10
The tissue on my Scolymia australis has recently started to recede in two areas and has receded to the point that parts of its skeleton are completely exposed.
<Not good>
Its placed on the bottom my 210 gallon tank which is 29" high and is kept under a 14 bulb T5 fixture with individual reflectors, is it getting enough light?
It is still taking feedings of chopped Mysis shrimp soaked in Selcon 4-5 days a week, so that gives me some hope. My water parameters are as follows:
Temperature : 78 F
Spg. : 1.026
Calcium : 420 ppm
Alk. : 9.5 DKH
Magnesium : 1375 ppm
Ammonia : 0
Nitrite : 0
Nitrate : 2.5 ppm
PO4 : undetectable
<Need some>

Any input would be greatly appreciated!
<Mmm, what other organisms are present in this system? Which are "nearby"?
What is their behavior? What chemical filtrants do you use on what schedule? Do you use Ozone, measure RedOx? Please read here:
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>
Re: Scolymia Australis tissue receding 1/17/10

Hey Bob,
My tank has a Sailfin Tang, Kole Tang, 2 Percula Clowns, 3 Firefish, 2 Exquisite Wrasses, 7 Green Chromis, 3 Large Cleaner Shrimp and a cleanup crew comprised of Nassarius, turbo & dwarf Cerith snails. I keep mainly LPS and Ricordeas, but have a large leather coral as well.
<This... may be involved in the deteriorating condition of the Scolymia>
I run GFO

& GAC in reactors which I change out monthly, top off with Kalkwasser and dose for Magnesium and Alkalinity as needed. Do you think chemical warfare carried out by the leather could be to blame as it is located approximately 8" above the Scolymia?
<As stated, could be>
Wouldn't the GAC take care of chemical warfare issues?
<To some extent>

I've attached pictures of the portion of my tank where I keep my Scolymia and leather. Thanks Bob!
<The Scolymia should be placed directly on the bottom/substrate. BobF>

Re: Scolymia Australis tissue receding 1/18/10
Is the proximity of the leather to the Scolymia the potential issue or are the two not able to co-exist period despite my tank being 210 gallons?
<Is a concern>
I run GFO for pro-active algae control, would you recommend discontinuing that practice?
<See WWM re... I am not a fan of hobbyists continuous use of ferric oxides>
I will also place the Scolymia directly on the substrate as well.
Do you have any other suggestions?
<Not w/o further data>
Could my cleaner shrimp be irritating the Scolymia?
but if so, much more likely "after the fact"... That is shrimps might feed on a dead, dying Mussid>
Thanks for your help Bob!
<Welcome Doug. BobF>

Re: Scolymia Australis tissue receding 1/18/10
In reading more on the topic of chemical warfare, I'm thinking that at the very least allelopathy is a contributing factor to my Scolymia issues,
<We are in agreement>

so I'm going to remove the small Sarcophyton and large Finger leather from my system, I also have 4 Ricordeas and 2 Yumas in my tank that are a considerable distance from the Scolymia, are they potentially contributing to the chemical warfare issues?
<To a lesser extent; yes>
The 3 cleaner shrimp in the system are constantly picking at my Scolymias
<Cover them! With a plastic "berry" basket, inverted... KEEP the shrimps off them>
after they have been target fed, do you think this is stressing the Scolymia and contributing to the tissue recession?
<Yes, yes, YES>
Thanks again Bob, you are literally a lifesaver!
<Mmm, more like an enabler. You can be the lifesaver. B>
Re: Scolymia Australis tissue receding
Do you think if I added additional GAC to my reactor that I would still be able to keep the Ricordeas and Yumas or should I plan on potentially having to get rid of them?
<... see WWM re allelopathy... My archived .ppt vers. of the MACNA pitch last year>
Also any suggestions for trapping the cleaner shrimp?
<Also posted.... learn to/use the search tool, indices... B>

My Acan has worms (?)
Dear Crew,
I received an Acan frag in a trade yesterday. The frag appeared healthy in the tank of the original owner; however, when I arrived home I noticed some stringy material coming in the bag with the coral. At first I assumed this was mucus, but when I went to lift the coral from the bag all the "strings" seemed to retract back to the surface of the coral. On the surface, there appeared to be many objects that looked like balled up threads, as if it had been rolled between your fingers.
Upon closer inspection, I could distinguish some slow movement in these objects. What concerns me more is that I then noticed several spots on the surface of the coral where it appeared as though these worms (assumption) are coming through the flesh of the coral. I took the following pic
<No image attached, linked... embedding doesn't work with this program>
in hopes that you can help me identify what these creatures may be. I hope it is clear enough to give you an idea of what I'm seeing. Oh, and yes, this piece (as with all new arrivals) will be going into quarantine not my
<Thank goodness... well, your forethought>
Thanks, as always, for your help.
<I suspect these "worms" may be part of this coral's structure, but even if separate organisms, not likely deleterious... or so much so that the colony will perish as a consequence, or "spread" troubles to your other organisms.
Please do send along a well-resolved image. Bob Fenner>

Re: My Acan has worms (?) 10/21/09
My apologies. Here is another attempt with the photo attached this time.
<Mmmm, well... these might be worms (if so, best guess at phylum is the Nematodes)... Or just "mesenterial filaments"... IF you're very concerned you could run a vermifuge in your quarantine to eradicate if Vermes... See WWM re. BobF>

Re: My Acan has worms (?) 11/9/09
I never got a response to this after attaching the image. I know you all are busy so I figured I would make another attempt. Please let me know if the image changes your opinion at all. I still have not been able to locate another image or account that seems similar to this. Thanks, as always, for your input.
<Mmm, strange. I did respond to this. Posted here: http://wetwebmedia.com/mussiddisfaq2.htm
Re: My Acan has worms (?)
Ah, thank you. I somehow missed the second reply.
<I see... did these "worms" go away? I do think they are likely part of your Acanthastrea. BobF>
Re: My Acan has worms (?)
No, they have not gone away. They are not as prominent as they were when the coral was more stressed after transport, but if I blow a jet of water on the coral to deflate the flesh I can still notice some of these small "bundles". When left alone, the coral seems otherwise healthy. They don't seem to be doing any damage to the coral, and do not attempt to leave the coral (I tried baiting with meaty food), but they are strange enough (to me at least) that I don't yet trust them to be "harmless". I would be happy to learn that they are part of the Acanthastrea, and not a parasite. If this were the case, would it be normal to see this or would the emergence of these be a result of stress?
<Don't know... but I do want to relate that I've seen such as this in the wild, underwater. As long as the animal/colony is otherwise okay, I would not be concerned. Interesting to speculate that these may function as some sort of "lure" to attract prey. Cheers! BobF
Re: My Acan has worms (?)
Thanks for sharing your observations and thoughts. I will continue to monitor, but am becoming less concerned. I will let you know if I make any other interesting observations.
<Thank you for sharing. BobF>

Scolymia, hlth. 9/26/09
Hi Bob, I wonder if you can help me. I purchased a Scolymia approx 4 months ago.
It was green and brown (maroon), it would polyp up for most of the day and was feeding well. It is placed on the substrate. Approx 3 weeks ago I noticed that it seemed to be losing its colour and wasn't feeding as readily.
<Bad signs>

At first I thought maybe it was the light so I gently moved it a couple of inches so that it was shaded by an overhang but this has made no difference, I also checked that there wasn't anything close to it which could sting it, apart from another Scolymia there is nothing within 8 inches of it.
I have just returned from a two week holiday (Have removed location/RMF - lucky me) and found that it has now become virtually white.
<!? Very bad>

It has no maroon/brown pigment left at all and the green is now a fluorescent yellow.
I don't know why the Scolymia is bleaching. It is still inflating but not as much and is not feeding well although it is taking chopped mussel and Mysis shrimp in small amounts. My husband maintained the tank whilst I was on holiday and he said he had great difficulty getting it to feed although since I got home I have managed to feed it a few bits of chopped mussel every night this week (I've had to stand guard to keep the fish and shrimps away or they steal the food from it).
My tank
is 72x24x24
Photoperiod is
2 x Actinic Blue 1200 - 2300,
2 x 54w Actinic 'Daylight' 1600hrs - 2230
2 x 250MH 1700 - 2200
<I'd extend the "white light" time... to another couple hours per day>
Water Param.s:
Temp 76 degrees
Salinity 1.025
Calc 430
Mag 1500
<This is a little high... I'd keep closer to 3X Ca conc.>
Phos 0
<Have to have some...>

Nitrite 0
Ammonia 0
Nitrate <0.05
<And more of NO3>

PH 8.2
I also have a Red and Green Scolymia purchased a week after the above and this is fine, eating well, inflating well and not bleaching, it is placed alongside the above Scolymia and they do occasionally touch each other if they both polyp up at the same time.
<... you state above that nothing touches the one poorly Mussid>
I also have a red Cynarina coral which is about 8 inches away from the two scolys and this is also very healthy. Everything else in the tank is likewise doing
very well.
Tank stock:
Lobophyllia x 2
Physogyra lichtensteini 3
Plerogyra sp x 2
Plerogyra sinuosa x 3
Toadstools x 4
Anchor x 1
Goniopora x 5
Alveopora x 1
Gorgonian x 4
Pom Pom Xenia x 4
Candy cane
Organ Pipe x 2
Sun Corals x 4
I'm not sure what more I should be doing to try to get this coral back to full health so that it feeds well and returns to its proper colouring. I have not seen any Zooxanthellae expulsion.
I carry out a 100 litre water change every week which is approx 15%, I add 3ml amino acids alternate days and feed the tank 5ml of live phyto 3 times a week.
<Mmmm... nothing here consumes this directly>
I run carbon for one week
in every 3 weeks. I have a refugium in my sump which is lit when the display tank lights are off.
Can you please advise on what I should do to rescue this animal?
Pauline Grover
<Nothing other than my notes "jumps out" here as terminally off... The fact that your other stony corals, even members of the same family, genus are doing well is telling... I would ask that you review here:
and the linked files above in the hope that something will become live to your conscience... The more plausible "cause" here is allelopathy... the second, some sort of direct trauma... but from what? Bob Fenner>

Invertebrate ID and Bleaching 5/27/2009
Hey, I have another favor to ask of you,
<Hi Darren.>
I bought another coral over the past week and I have a concern with it. It was told to me it was a Large polyp stony, called a pineapple or Favia species of coral,
<Hmm, it is a Brain or Pineapple coral, family Mussidae. More information
here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/mussidae.htm >
a search of a few websites seems to confirm this, but the LFS told me that it likes pretty intense lighting from metal halide,
<Depends on the species.>
so I placed it on top of my display tank near the light I have, a Solaris 14inch LED fixture, which again to me seems as bright as at least a 250 watt metal halide, and the concern I have is that it seems to be bleaching, especially the reddish brown raised portion of the coral,
<Likely so.>
the green "eyes" don't seem to be affected as much yet, but the coral in general doesn't seem to be as colorful and full of life as it was in the store tank, and they had it in a large metal halide lit tank.
<May have been under metal halides, but still a lot of variables, hold old were the bulbs, water clarity, etc.>
I acclimated the coral very slowly and the parameters of my tank are what I think pretty pristine, so I ask of you your expertise on if I should re-locate this new coral to a lower more shaded area, or let it recover from whatever it is that it doesn't seem to like about my tank?
<Definitely get it lower in the tank, near the bottom, and start working it up over the course of a couple of weeks until you find a spot it seems to be happiest. You can do some supplemental feeding to help overcome the bleaching.>
Thanks in advance for your help....
<My pleasure>

Re: pH problems - Favia bleaching 5-27-09
Hey, I have another favor to ask of you, I bought another coral over the past week and I have a concern with it. It was told to me it was a Large polyp stony, called a pineapple or Favia species of coral, a search of a few websites seems to confirm this, but the LFS told me that it likes pretty intense lighting from metal halide, so I placed it on top of my display tank near the light I have, a Solaris 14inch LED fixture, which again to me seems as bright as at least a 250 watt metal halide, and the concern I have is that it seems to be bleaching, especially the reddish brown raised portion of the coral, the green "eyes" don't seem to be affected as much yet, but the coral in general doesn't seem to be as colorful and full of life as it was in the store tank, and they had it in a large metal halide lit tank. I acclimated the coral very slowly and the parameters of my tank are what I think pretty pristine, so I ask of you your expertise on if I should re-locate this new coral to a lower more shaded area, or let it recover from whatever it is that it doesn't seem to like about my tank? Thanks in advance for your help....Darren
I'm attaching 2 pics of the coral.
<Hi Darren, not to step into what Mike has already done with you. I noticed that you have another coral in close proximity to this one. Two things immediately come to mind. First, you say you think your lights are equal to a metal halide but is easy to get the exact specs on them and compare to be sure. Second, did they have them under 100's or 250's or what kind of halide because that makes a difference as well. And finally, Okay yeah I have three points not two, I think that you may have issues with the other coral stinging this Favia. I would suggest moving it or the other a bit farther apart.>

Maintenance and Water Quality Issues in a 14g BioCube -- 05/01/09
Hi Eric,
<<Hi Beth>>
Just got back in town the other day and Holy Sick Aquarium Batman!!
I really do have to join a local aquarium club for some support when I have to leave town.
<<Doing so 'and gaining the 'local' support and advice of others sharing your passion can be a real boon>>
Believe it or not, the Sea Pen is the only thing that has done well in my absence. The tank has a horrible red algae bloom, my Xenia was torn in half, my hermit crab decided that he liked the shell that the Xenia was partially attached to and made it his new home. The Xenia does not look like it's going to make it. My frogspawn, candy coral, Ricordea and doughnut coral all look deflated and stressed. I lost one of my feather dusters and all of my mushroom anemones.
<<Does sound like things have taken a serious downturn>>
The feather dusters are connected together and I haven't seen one of them emerge from his tube. Another one decided that he didn't like his tube and is now sharing a tube with another one. Do I just leave the empty tubes alone?
<<I would'¦ Trying to remove it will likely just cause more undue stress 'possible physical harm>>
The protein skimmer and the well it sits in smelled horrible. I removed the skimmer and thoroughly cleaned it with hot water and toothbrush. I also siphoned the debris at the bottom of the well that contains the protein skimmer.
<<A good move>>
I did a 25% water change the first day and I siphoned out all of the red algae that I could reach.
<<Another good strategy 'and the siphoning will probably need to be repeated periodically>>
I added Kent Marine Nano Reef supplements A and B.
<<I would not add 'anything' until you get the tank back in 'balance''¦ And this will best be done through frequent partial water changes 'say 25% twice a week for two weeks 'and then reevaluate at that time>>
I also turned on my extra powerhead to boost circulation and prevent the red algae from coming back.
<<It will come back for now 'but the extra circulation is another good move>>
I normally do not run the extra powerhead because I only have a 14g BioCube and my frogspawn and doughnut do not seem to like the extra current.
<<I see'¦ Keeping a noxious mix of corals is often more complicated in such small volumes 'but does make water changes easy, and is the single best way to keep up with water quality>>
I tested the parameters of water and readings are good except for nitrates. So I performed a 10% water change on the second day. Nitrate came down from 50ppm to 35ppm.
<<This is likely a large part of your issues here. I would strive to get this reading below 5ppm (you should step up the water changes)>>
The corals have dramatically improved in appearance.
<<And should continue to do so 'just keep bringing down that Nitrate reading>>
However the doughnuts mouth is wide open and my pipe coral is not coming out.
<<May be a delayed recovery 'or maybe these have been more seriously damaged>>
My Firefish is acting kind of weird, he is normally very shy, but as I type, he is swimming in place at the center of the tank. Kind of like riding the current. I think those are all the problems that I have encountered so far. I look forward to any helpful suggestions.
Thanks again,
<<Water changes, water changes, water changes'¦ Be chatting'¦ EricR>>
Re: Maintenance and Water Quality Issues in a 14g BioCube -- 05/01/09

Hi Eric,
<<Hey Beth>>
So sorry to bother you again.
<<No bother my friend>>
I had to ask another question about my doughnut coral.
He seemed to be doing alright. He was my newest addition to the tank, about 3 weeks ago, and never seemed to be fully expanded or symmetrical. Today he was symmetrical as well as expanded. His mouth finally closed somewhat but a few minutes ago he let go of his footing.
<<Lost footing? As in became 'detached' from its skeleton? Not good'¦>>
I currently have placed him in the sand with a shell weighing him down so he does not float behind the rocks. Doughnut know what to do.
<<In my experience, large polyped corals such as this never recover/reattach to the skeleton 'is but a matter of time I'm afraid. EricR>>
R2: Maintenance and Water Quality Issues in a 14g BioCube -- 05/01/09

Sorry, should revise previous email. The doughnut has separated from its skeleton.
<<Ah yes 'did surmise such, but thank you for clarifying. EricR>>
R4: Maintenance and Water Quality Issues in a 14g BioCube -- 05/03/09

Good Morning Eric,
<<Hello Beth>>
Thanks for confirmation on actions taken in response to Operation Death Tank.
<<Quite welcome>>
I will hold off on additional supplements until the tank is healthy again.
<<Excellent 'is best>>
A question about more aggressive action.
I have another salt water tank that was set up at the same time as my BioCube. I only stock live rock in this aquarium with no base substrate. Some people collect spoons or marbles, I collect live rock. Okay..... I collect spoons, marbles and live rock.
Should I transfer corals over to my live rock tank with the exception of my chili, Featherduster and sea pen in order to clean the wells of my BioCube?
<<Might not hurt to do so with the stonies>>
I know that the wells are very slimy from the dead mushrooms and a good cleaning could possibly improve my nitrate levels more quickly than water changes alone.
<<Yes 'no doubt>>
Also, until the nitrate level has been reduced, what volume of water do you recommend for water changes and how often should it be done.
<<A couple 50% changes a day apart should show some significant improvement 'done in conjunction with the 'cleanings' you mention>>
Could you describe to me how the doughnut forms his skeleton?
<<I'm guessing by 'doughnut' you have Cynarina lacrymalis'¦ This coral forms/grows its skeleton as any other hard or 'stony' coral does 'through the extraction of bio-minerals from the surrounding water. If you're interested in the science of it, you may find more info with a good search of the web 'or you can visit a local college library>>
and the relationship between the skeleton and coral?
<<Mmm, I would describe this as 'necessary for life'>>
How does the skeleton keep him alive?
<<By providing an anchor, support, and protection for the polyp 'and possibly an avenue for nutrient distribution>>
Is it like the relationship between fetus and mother?
<<More like flower petal and receptacle (the attachment point of the petal), I think>>
An umbilical cord where there is a transfer of nutrients?
<<Not to the same extent 'if at all>>
Or does the skeleton act only as a support for the doughnut?
<<Not so simplistic 'but does provide 'support'>>
If it acts as a support only and nutrients will not be lost due to the separation, could the doughnut be reattached to the skeleton manually?
<<I have never seen this work>>
Would puncturing the doughnut with a needle kill it and could he heal around a suture?
<<I have seen this done with some of the so-called 'leather' corals (Toadstool, etc.), but I wouldn't recommend this procedure for a large-polyped coral such as this. Your water quality issues were the cause of the polyp bail-out'¦ Addressing these will certainly benefit the remaining corals/any future additions. You could try a few spots of superglue in an attempt to hold the polyp in place in hopes that it will reattach to its skeleton on its own 'but I do fear/expect that the Cynarina is lost>>
Thanks Again,
<<Happy to share. Eric Russell>>

Injured Coral? 04/24/09
Good afternoon, I am a little worried about my "button" coral. Although he (she?) continues to expand and contract regularly and displays feeding tentacles at night, the flesh seems to have receded on the one side and there is skeleton showing. Could this be an injury from hermits, snails or our urchin? Or is this a sign of something else?
<I could be wrong, but this does look like an injury more than a decline in health... but I can't be sure.>
- 75 gallon display, 20 gallon sump, approx 80 lbs live rock, 2yrs old
- ammonia, nitrite, nitrate all 0
- PH approx 8.1 - 8.3
- salinity .025 <I assume you mean 1.025>
- calcium approx 380
the coral is about 18 months old, has undergone several moves in the tank but seems happy where he is (for maybe six months). He is not close to anyone else in the tank. Nearest neighbor is a torch coral.
<Uh oh... this could be the culprit if within up to 6in.>
No changes in occupants or landscape since November. I have attached a picture in hopes of some help. I rarely target feed my corals because they are all growing and appear healthy (up to now), but perhaps I should be.
<A little target feeding here might not hurt...>
I own Eric Borneman's coral reference book, but couldn't really come up with a diagnosis from it. We are nowhere near a LFS so I don't even have anyone else I could ask for an opinion. Thanks in advance for any help you may be able to offer. Melanie
<I don't know if it's just the angle of the photo or what, but the way this coral is "receding" looks odd to me. Usually, when a coral starts to recede, the rest of the coral shows at least some signs of declining health. But your coral looks great except for that one spot. Also, it's showing mesenterial filaments. This could be a result of the injury, or a way of fending off an attack. That's why I say it looks like it was injured or is being stung (imo, again, I could be wrong-- I suppose time will tell). How this happened is better your guess than mine... maybe a hermit or another coral.
Sara M.>

Brain Coral Issue 8/2/08 Hello, <Hi there Greg> I recently purchased a brain coral (Lobophyllia corymbosa?). <Maybe> It has about 6 polyps.? However, one of the polyps will not open (see attached picture).? It seems to have closed up after cleaning a lot of coralline algae off the sides of the aquarium.? <Could be an influence> All the other polyps are doing fine, so I don't think it's a water quality issue or conditions.? Anything I can do to get this last polyp to open up? Thanks, Greg <Likely is fine... I would do nothing extraordinary here... perhaps a bit of iodine/ide supplement to the water (for the western inertia)... Bob Fenner>

Re: Brain Coral Issue ??? 8/8/08 Hello Again, <Greg?> Just to update, the one polyp on the Lobophyllia diminuta did not survive.? This evening after returning home, the tissue of the one polyp was disintegrating.? No problem though, I just brushed it away in clean tank water and put it back in the tank.? All other 9 polyps on this piece appear to be doing fine.? I have no idea what would have caused the one polyp to go south, while the others did fine.? Anyway, I now have one clean and white skeleton next to the other polyps.? Any chance the one skeleton can be repopulated.? <Yes> Please say yes!!! <Ok> Thanks, Greg? <BobF?>

Troubled over moon brain coral 03/24/08 Hi Crew, I have a quick question. I am actually fairly new at having a reef system. I have a 55 gal. tank and I purchased a piece of moon brain coral I believe it to be about 7 months ago. <This is a Mussidae sp., not usually called "brain coral." They're usually called "brain corals." Please see here: http://www.asira.org/lobophylliasymphylliaothermussideans  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/mussidae.htm > I've attached a photo. When I brought it as you can see it seem to be health. However, as of about a couple of weeks ago I got to noticing how bad it was looking started to turn red/brown color looking. <Hmm, darkening in color is necessarily a sign of declining health.> Just over two days ago after I did a water change and system clean it has had a hole to develop in the middle of it. <Are you sure this isn't the "mouth" of the polyp gapping?> I have gave it live marine phytoplankton, <This is good for your tank life in general, but doesn't directly feed this coral (feeds it more indirectly).> moved it under the rock to the shade more as well as feeding it frozen foods, about once a week (as I have been doing since purchase). What I need to know if I should be worried about possible other reef I have introduced into my tank has caused to go down hill. <I'm not entirely convinced it is going down hill. Can you take a picture of what it looks like now?> The last thing I put in was some sun coral and mushrooms and two anemones this was several months after I had purchased this piece of brain coral? And what possible I could do to nurse it back to health? And should I move to another tank? If you could get back with me with a answer that would be awesome. <Again, I could probably help you more if I were more sure of if there is actually anything wrong (pic would/will help).> Thanks for your help
<De nada,
Sara M.>

Sara... you've got to move the files... RMF

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