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FAQs on Chemical Filtrants Marine in Filtration 2

Related FAQs: Chemical Filtrants 1, Zeolites, Marine Maintenance, Nitrates 2, Nitrates 3, Nitrates 4, Nitrates 5, Nitrates 6, NitritesAmmonia, Phosphate, Silicates, Biological Filtration, Fluidized Beds, Denitrification/Denitrifiers, Wet-Dry Filters, R.O./Distilled/Treated Water

Related Articles: Marine Chemical Filtrants, Zeolite Filters: A Discussion of What Zeolites Are and How They Function by Jens Kallmeyer
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Polyfilter       2/18/14
Hey guys, I love reading your posts, even if it doesn't relate to me I still pay attention.
<A good practice; and I encourage a "generalist" understanding>
 You've probably covered this topic 1000 times but here's my story.  I bought a 120g reef ready tank from somebody that had only fish and fake colored rock.
<Colored? Am wondering how>

  I donated the fish to the store that told me about the deal, 1 hand wash the other, and used the existing sand, added as much rock as I could buy or trade for, then when I thought the tank was done cycle I added 5 or 6 small fish, largest being an Anthias, and some corals,
<Important to know... and to state for us, the species involved here>

snails and hermits.  I noticed my snails wouldn't live past a few days. 
<Ahh; typically "a/some water issue" at root here>

I went as far as adding snails and crabs to my existing tank and the new one at the same time to make sure I wasn't receiving a bad batch.  the snails in the new tank died and so did the corals I put in there some Zoanthids and a trumpet.

 I put a PolyFilter in the sump and overnight it turned blue.
<Could be metal... or... something washing off the "colored rock"... Which I'd remove post haste>

 How long does the pad work for before replacing?
<Mmm, days to (less with time) weeks... Depends on what's being absorbed, how much...>
When does it stop working?  I put my previously live rock in a container with fresh saltwater, a PolyFilter that is turning a light blue and Cuprisorb and carbon.  The fish store said I had trace minimal amounts of copper in there. 
<How much is "this" trace?>
How bad could my rock be,
I'd like to have a reef tank someday.  I've also replaced the water and threw out the old sand.
<Pull the rock... you can do a simple bio-assay with it elsewhere... Bob Fenner>

Poly Filter/Chemical Media 6/4/12
Hi Crew, Jim again.
<Hello Jim>
I ran into a guy that has been running a tank for many years. He told me he does use poly filter because it's too expensive. Instead he uses a filter pad that is used to make quilts. It looks and feels like poly filter, but little scared to make the switch. What do you think?
<I will say that the pad he uses does not possess the chemical absorbents that Poly Filters have.  It may be fine as a mechanical filter but no more.  If he has been using this for an extended period and has had no problems, then I would assume it is safe to use in aquariums.  I would ensure that this material does not have any fire retardants incorporated within, especially knowing that it is used for quilt making.  Minerals such as aluminium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, huntite, hydromagnesite, various hydrates, red phosphorus and boron compounds may be used in the production of fire retardants.
James (Salty Dog)>

R7: Green Hair Algae Problem (Ready to quit!), & Polyfilter/Chem Filt. media f'  -- 09/07/09
Hi Eric:
<<Hey Cindy>>
I really do not want to take up to much more of your site time and space. You are just so darn helpful and I need to be organized before the show, here goes another couple of thousand dollars.
I recently bought a book called the Conscientious Marine Aquarist (seems more current then most my other books) which I was reading last night.
<<Ah yes'¦authored by Bob Fenner here at WWM>>
They mention those Poly-Bio Marine Filter Pads there, a favorite of advanced hobbyists such as yourself apparently.
<<An excellent product'¦very useful'¦all should have a few on hand for contingencies, if not just daily use'¦>>
When I told Jim exactly what I was after, he too knew right away and highly recommended the pads as well.
<<Ah good'¦must admit I was a bit perplexed when you stated earlier that he didn't know what they were>>
I ordered 6 packages since they only seem to come in 3x 10 sheets.
<<Ah no'¦ Can be obtained in 12'x12' sheets, and though harder to find these days, also in 3' discs (12pk)'¦with both of these being stronger concentrations/formulations than the 3'x10' pads. But not to worry'¦the 3'x10' pads will work very well for you. Do take a little time to research the site/product and learn a bit more re their use/function>>
At least I know I can get them through him.
<<Very good>>
I haven't seen them in my catalogs under ion exchange or filter medias.
<<Hmm, should be'¦ Perhaps under 'chemical media'>>
Why he didn't tell me about them sooner is part of my frustration sometimes with him but he is by far the best game in town and only 1 1/2 hours away.
<<Yikes'¦still a long haul>>
He isn't always as helpful as he could be.
<<Can't always 'think of everything''¦ask me, I know [grin]>>
Part of my frustration is "lack of availability" in this area.
<<This is where learning/using the Internet is of great value>>
I have traveled hours in the past in search of a good supplier only to find their tanks look even worse than mine.
<<Indeed'¦nothing more perplexing than to walk in to a store to see tanks in disarray'¦dying/dead fish on display>>
The stores we do have cater more towards the average hobbyist (not that there is anything wrong with that but product lines are often limited for example I like much of Brightwell Aquatic's product line) but anything specialized I might need I ALWAYS have to special order.
<<Okay'¦I'll say it again'¦ Internet'¦>>
I am trying to take advantage of the show next weekend and the discounts they offer. The more info I can gather.......... Bob is right, I have only been online for three weeks now so I need to do much exploring.
<<Ah! Yes'¦ Much to explore/learn>>
I do not blame Bob at all; I know he is only trying to encourage me to continue in my research. I know I have things I need to work on. It is not that I am not trying heart and soul on my own. Jim told me I just need to determine who seems to be in most agreement on topics and go with the overall consensus because it can become so confusing.
<<But not to follow blindly'¦ The onus is on you to at least understand the arguments>>
I had always wondered about light duration. I was told to only leave my lights on about 8 hours.
<<And some reef enthusiasts do this'¦bit I think it should be longer, as explained>>
I run my lights on my planted tanks 12 hours, even the one with metal halide lighting.
I always wondered why less for a reef!
I'll up the timers.
Can I run my frag tank on the same light interval as my reef itself or should it be on alternating.
<<Up to you'¦but an alternating schedule (since these systems are interconnected) may provide some pH support>>
I have read the refugium has to be on alternating time intervals
<<Doesn't have to be, but can be beneficial for the same reason just stated>>
but then again some stuff I have read recommends 24 hour lighting on the refugium.
<<This is dependent on the type macroalgae utilized (if/when utilized). Most Caulerpa species are best kept under such lighting to preclude any 'sexual' events that can poison a system. But if using Chaetomorpha (my choice/recommendation) in a refugium, a 'rest period' is beneficial>>
See things like this confuse me
<<Merely requires further reading/researching>>
and I do not no where to find a good reliable source until I found you. I'm willing to spend the money, invest my time and do the research but sometimes I just don't know where to look.
<<I do understand'¦and it 'will' become easier in time>>
Re- Generators'¦ Please fellow hobbyists: I hope no one ever has to go through the total loss of a reef. Eric is absolutely right. The investment in a generator (small in comparison) by far outweighs the cost of losing a reef system to say nothing of your time and work investment.
<<Well said>>
Calculate that into the total cost of your basic set-ups, you'll likely be glad you did. All it can take is 1/2 hour before you are into serious biological breakdown, especially within your canister filters. If in the event of a long term power outage disconnect all your canister filters and remove the hoses because you know they are gone anyway and will need to recycle, clean and be totally refreshed. Stale water in hoses pumped into your system once power is restored can easily kill a delicate tank. If push comes to shove and you can't afford much by way of a generator, get enough of a generator that you can keep your heaters running and install airstones to keep oxygen going to your live rock, and stock.
<<Really'¦all that is 'needed' is enough power to pump water from the sump to the display, and/or to run a powerhead or two (if you don't have a sump) along with your heater(s)>>
Small generators can usually power a compact florescent set-up but not always a halide lighting system.
<<The lighting can wait anyway>>
They really suck "generator juice". Re- the refugium/sump: I think I may be putting the cart before the horse here Eric so I need you to tell me if I am wrong. I planned on using the overflow water from the reef itself (hence the use of a multi directional spray bar to defuse the water pressure coming down from the reef) to feed water into the refugium (remind you I have the FX5 working on the reef itself).
<<Ah, okay'¦this is fine'¦though the use of the spray bar should not be necessary and may even cause unwanted restriction/trapping of particulates>>
The refugium itself would be lighted and the waterfall would go into the sump.
I have well established substrate in the sump complete with sand sifter star fish, sea cucs etc. which I planned on putting into the refugium along with some live rock. The sump would basically only contain the protein skimmer (which is a foot in diameter) pumps and anything else you recommend.
<<Ah good'¦best to keep the sump and refugium separate when possible'¦in my opinion>>
I did not plan on lighting the sump too because of its close proximity to the frag tank.
<<And not necessary or even desirable (re algae accumulation in the skimmer body/other ancillary filtration devices) in most instances>>
Oh yea, planted is definitely the freshwater equivalent of a reef, especially if you use metal halide lighting and keep delicate fish!!! The Netherlands!!!! You know planted aquariums don't you Eric?
<<Mmm, not really'¦ That was three decades ago (Yowza!), and I've been totally committed to marine/reef systems for the last two now>>
They wrote the book!
<<They were plentiful there/then'¦and beautiful too>>
I am sorry this is so long-winded. I didn't expect to hear from you again.
<<We do respond to 'all'>>
"Thanks Eric"
<My pleasure Cindy'¦ Eric Russell>>

Re: Water chemistry question 2/23/08 Sorry for bugging you again, forgot to ask the greenish brown color the PolyFilter does that suggest its a regular organic compound like ammonia, nitrates and others? <Green is often metallic... brown... most anything. BobF>

Re: Water chemistry question, PolyFilter f'  - 3/5/08 Ok, last update/last question. I've been moved into my house for a few days, my tank is still in my apartment. I was in my apartment last night at about 3am because I got a call from the property manager that water was leaking to the apartment below; my float valves failed and the pump sent 5 gallons of fresh water into my sump that overflowed 4 gallons of water to the apartment below. Anyway while I was there disconnecting the sump from the main tank I noticed that the poly-filter is now half green and half red. Is the red color stand for iron in the water? <Typically ferrous material... iron rust> If so could the tufa base rock have leached the toxic chemical into my good Fiji rock or should i not worry about that? <Tufas are indeed often problematical. Do a search on WWM to see...> I appreciate the help you've given me and I can understand now that if the chemical is iron how bad that could affect my tank. <Ah yes. Cheers, BobF>

Poly-Filter Over Carbon...Too Aggressive? -- 09/17/07 Dear Crew, <<Alan>> Been thinking of using only Poly-Filter instead of activated carbon because of cost concern. <<Is a great product...use it myself>> Can Poly-Filter do the "duty" of activated carbon? <<Yep>> Read that Poly-Filter will also absorb ammonia and nitrate but by doing so, won't it affect the biological filtration by means of starving the beneficial bacteria? <<Mmm, you pose an interesting question...but one of little concern I think. It is true the bacteria populations will adjust to the available nutrient load, but most hobbyists' systems can use a little help re. The benefits of using the Poly-Filter product will outweigh your fears here...in my opinion>> Thanks in advance. Regards, Alan <<Happy to assist. EricR>>

PolyFilters  12/8/05 Hey crew,  <Sam> Just wanted to know whether you thought it was a good idea to keep PolyFilters in my Fluval 304 at all times as opposed to sponge filters.  I have a 90 gallon with p and tusk, so they produce quite a lot of waste. I also have a wet/dry, aqua wheel filter, and two powerheads. I usually keep two sponge filters in two spaces and two poly's in the other two spaces in my Fluval. I wasn't sure if this was a good idea to keep the PolyFilters in 24/7. I thought that it would filter out any medication, or additive that I would put into my tank, such as purple up, a coralline algae growth enhancer. Thanks for everything.  <Don't see a problem using it 24/7. Shouldn't affect your enhancer enough to matter. Sam, in future queries, please do a spelling/grammar check and cap all your "i's". It just takes extra time for us to answer these queries when we also have to edit them for posting. Thanks, James (Salty Dog)> 

Polyfilter follow-up, Cut to Fit - 11/30/05 Thanks John (Crew!),   Two quick follow-ups... I considered the Emperor for placement of the Poly-Fiber but on the label they recommend that water can not get around it but rather forced through. Given the shape/size of the Poly I can't enforce that recommendation. So do you think it would still be pretty effective if it isn't a tailored fit? <I can't think of any better place to put it. You can cut it to fit.> Secondly, you mentioned nitrates and the bio-wheel.  Even with very little bio-load...nothing but LR, LS, a small Colt coral (I think) and some snails and crabs I continue to register nitrates. Not a lot (~5 ppm). Can the bio-wheels (especially with all the other living filtration) associated with nitrates?  <Absolutely... Let the live rock do the work for you!> This bio-wheel is carried over from my freshwater setup. Thanks again! <You're welcome! Best regards, John> 

Polyfilter Placement Hello crew, <Hi there! Scott F. your Crew member today!> I have a wet/dry filter and I want to use a Poly filter. Can I put activated carbon on top the Poly filter or is there a different way to do this? < I suppose that you could, but I would place the Poly Filter somewhere in your system where it receives a good water flow through the pad. No need to "sandwich" it between carbon or other media.> I would also like to replace my bio balls a little at a time with live rock. Do you have to use a light to keep the rock alive? Thanks Terry <Well, Terry, lighting live rock when it's cycling is debatable; some people feel that it's important to help keep the resident photosynthetic fauna alive as long as possible during the process. On the other hand, a lot of the life will die off and come back at some point once the rock is in the display tank. Lighting the rock in the display is, of course, recommended if you want to have light-loving animals in residence. Hope this helps. Regards, Scott F.>

Cleaning a poly filter - 1/28/04 Aloha WWM Crew, <Aloha> Thank you very much for the wonderful service you provide. <Thank you for being part of it> I have a quick question regarding poly filters. <As in the product made by Poly Bio Marine Inc???>  I have been using poly filters to help control phosphate in my 120 FOWLR. <OK>  How often should I be cleaning the poly filters and how should I clean them? <This is right off their site: "How does an Aquarium Hobbyist regenerate Poly-Filter? for reuse in an aquarium?" "Poly-Filter? is not an ion-exchange resin, therefore it does not exchange ions or anything else back into freshwater, saline, natural or synthetic seawater aquaria. Due to the complex nature of the metabolic waste products ad/absorbed into poly-Filter? ----- there is no safe method of cleaning a Poly-Filter?. You may rinse Poly-Filter? in Distilled Water (USP Grade) to help remove organic particulate matter. Never rinse Poly-Filter? with bleach or chlorinated water - chlorine reacts with ad/absorbed organic matter producing toxic volatile organic chemicals." See here:  http://www.poly-bio-marine.com/polyfaq.htm > I was going to bleach them, but someone told me that it can cause chemicals to leach into the tank. <Yep> I would just purchase new ones, but they are pretty expensive here in Hawaii. <They are pretty expensive everywhere, but a great and safe product. Purchase away!!!! ~Paul>   Mahalo Nui Loa, Jeff

- PolyFilter - How long do Polyfilters last? <Depending on the system they are used on, the bioload etc... probably not useful for more than two weeks, perhaps less.> How many times can they be washed and reused? <They can be washed and reused as often as you like, but after the first use, it is just a normal filtration pad - the PolyFilter magic is gone and cannot be practically recharged.> Ana <Cheers, J -- >

Polyfilter help The book is great!    <Yes, a wonderful read and resource. Those involved did a great job eh?> So glad I pre-ordered as it was well worth the wait.   I was wondering if anyone can help me figure out how to incorporate Polyfilter into my tank.   I have a 55 gallon with live rock, live sand and a small H.O.T. refugium that used to be a H.O.T. wet/dry.  The only skimmer box feeds the refugium which then empties back into the tank by means of a power head.   I also have H.O.T. Remora Pro and a H.O.T. Ultraviolet light.   I can't figure out how to incorporate either carbon or PolyFilter just to add a little extra clarity to the water and pick up anything my live rock and sand might miss. I have four powerheads that add circulation and seem to have good water movement.   I would appreciate any ideas you could come up with.    <All you need is a location that has good water movement. Do you have the skimmer box that is available for the Remora Pro? If so, you can put the carbon/poly filter in the outflow side. In addition the skimmer box is really worth the money and increases the output/quality of the Remora IME. Or, you could get a small HOT power filter (re: used/cheap? like the AquaClear 300 and use the carbon bag and power filter instead of the foam. Take care, Don>

Copper in tapwater, removal with Polyfilter hi  you answered me about copper the water plant i get it from says they don't add copper it sometimes leaks in from copper tubing from the faucet what is a PolyFilter ill buy one ASAP if it get out copper thanks JM  <A poly filter is just a white pad that will absorb pollutants, metals, etc.  When they absorb copper they will turn blue.  If your local fish store doesn't have them check our sponsors.  Cody>

Polyfilter Use can you put the PolyFilter in an already established reef tank? i could put it in my emperor filter<Yes and yes, Cody> thanks JM

Using Polyfilters 3/30/03 Anthony what is the best way to put a poly filter in my 180 gal reef tank. <its best to force water though it (not used passively). You can rig something like a large diameter PVC tube with poly-filter disks to catch effluent skimmed water or from a flow elsewhere (like a teed bleeder off the return pump). Else, packed into a cheap hang on power filter will be fine and give extra flow> The only filter i use is a protein skimmer.     <all good <G>> RGibson  ps  take time to breathe so you will get that book <heehee... yes, indeed... we are back to a crazy schedule. Fun but daunting at times. Kind regards, Anthony>

PolyFilter Rocks! Dear Anyone, <Scott F. your "Anyone" today> How long, on average, does a Poly Filter pad last in a trickle filter type sump? <Depending upon organic load in your system, these can last anywhere from 2 to 4 weeks, in my experience. I like to change them every two weeks. It's an expensive habit, but healthier than smoking or something!> I mean...I'm using it to detoxify an ammonia spike and potential heavy metal Detox, and so far it's been in here for two days and has basically turned a light tan color. <That's fairly normal...It means that it's removing organics...I'd dump it when it starts to take on a darker brown color...or- like I do- every two weeks... You should see how blue they get when you're removing copper from the water. very efficient at this> Are these pads good for days, weeks, months?  I'm uncertain to how they even work. <It's a very special manufacturing process, involving multiple steps and extraction...the end product is amazing. Visit Poly-Bio Marine's site for more information on these products> I'm assuming the padding is impregnated with several chemicals that absorb toxins. but wont the pad leach these toxins back into the sump water if the pad is moved around every so often while performing routine maintenance. <PolyFilters do not release absorbed organics back into the water. Does one need to clean this pad every few days with fresh water rinse, then put it back in? <Well, I'd rinse off any particulate matter that accumulated, but you will not be able to "rinse" out the absorbed products> Can one regenerate the pad somehow by leaving it out in the sun like I do my phos-Sorb? <Don't even think about it!> The directions on the label are scant at best, and don't really get into detail on proper maintenance, re-use of the pad. <"Cause there is no "reusing" these babies! Just put them in the water where they'll get decent flow, and through 'em away when they're used up.> Thanks, Steve <No problem, Steve>

Keeping It Green Hello Crew: <Scott F. today> I have added Greenex to my  quarantine tank for one of my fish.  I have added Greenex to the tank with PolyFilters in filtering system.  Can I leave the poly filters in, or do I need to take them out while adding the Greenex. <I would remove PolyFilters during disease treatment with medication. Among other things, these pads excel at removing medications from the water!> Company indicates one drop per net water amount, if I add few drops too much, what are consequences? <This medication can be very powerful, and create disastrous consequences if over- dosed. I've heard some really bad results from using it incorrectly...Not a big fan of this product, myself> Too little, not effective? Lastly, company indicates three treatments every other day, then no treatment for three days later? Is that standard protocol? <I'd follow the manufacturer's instructions to the letter, when using this, or any other medication.> Thanks for the assistance and have a nice day. Regards, Mendy1220 <Glad to be of service! Good luck! Scott>

Polyfilters, Turboflotors, and Dark Skimmate! Dear Crew. <Scott F. here this evening> A quick question: Can PolyFilter be cleaned and recycled? With Clorox as Bob's filter cleaning advice prescribes? Will it retain it's almost magical ability to catch Cyano and other undesirable stuff? <Believe me, if there was a reliable way to regenerate PolyFilter, I'd be a happy man! I love them! But, unfortunately, I'd have to say that there is no way to regenerate them> Just starting my third year in this hobby, I'm no one to give advice but a bunch of folks having trouble with their Turboflotors should be aware that the needle wheel was significantly improved a year or so ago but many units in inventory and retail stocks have been/are being sold with the older wheel. Custom Aquatics has the improved wheels in stock - a couple of bucks. My unit sits in the sump 8 inches deep, is fed by a pump which is controlled by a bypass valve (using a bypass reduces load on the pump and gives finer adjustment). It puts out lots of dark brown garbage. Bob suggested putting a nipple in the cup so it can drain through a hose into a milk jug. I have left it for two weeks or more and (while it gets really nasty dirty and there is about 2 - 3 quarts of goo in the jug) it continues to put out dry foam. Howard in Wisconsin <Thanks for sharing the information, Howard. I think that a lot of our readers will find that of great value! Keep learning and sharing! Scott F.>

Diatom Algae and PolyFilters Dear Craig: Thank you very much for your Bio-Marine Polyfilter suggestion. <Alright Mimie! I'm glad it's working for you! It is something in your water!> Looks like it is working. I placed it in my hang-on-back filter and there seem to be no diatoms on the walls of my tank this morning, which looks like brown dusting. And the PolyFilter is gradually turning to black! <Excellent! You will notice the diatoms will be worse with light and disappear in the dark, they need light to grow.> Just wonder if I can rinse and re-use it. Thanks again! hugs and kisses, Mimie <Unfortunately they need to be replaced. They work by electro-chemically attracting the positive and negative ions of certain pollutants.  Once they are full, they are done.  A little spendy but they work great for this type of problem. I would still look at testing for phosphates and silicates in your source water, I still suspect that is the source.  Have fun!!!  Craig>

Tank problems since place tented for termites hi bob (or one of bob's minions). <<Minion JasonC here...>> You are truly the hobby's best friend. My place was tented for termites 2 weeks ago. I removed all fish and L. rock (leaving sand and water) and shut system down. Oh, and for the record a minion recommended taking tank out. Then I let tank run for 3 days before restocking. Added rock and small guys first, then big fish 3 days later. I've got UV, P. skimmer and carbon all in sump. Bioballs in the overflow. Some problems since, but I think they're more the result of the place that kept my fish than anything termite related. <<Or both...>> Oh, and like an idiot I didn't fresh dip any fish upon return, something I ALWAYS did after every purchase (after reading TCMA). The problems were as follows. RS Sailfin scuffed around snout (net related?) Sohal scuffed even worse (same area) and had what looked like a small pinkish pimple on right fin (could it have been lymphsomething or other) Happy to report that those guys now seem healed. <<Oh good.>> My tank has 2 cleaner shrimp and a cleaner wrasse (all over a year old) and they've just put in for overtime. May even form union! Now for the first time ever in my tank a fish, my blue tang, is showing ich, and my Queen angel seems lethargic, less colorful, with some faint blotches. Both spend a lot of time over by shrimp. Tank temp is around 80, which I'll raise a few degrees. Salinity around 1.023, which I'll start to lower today. How much fresh water in and salt water out to get a 125 gal from .023 to .018 and over how many days should I take to reach it. Also how do I get it back up, and when. <<By adding extra-salty [1.025-1.030] water slowly, over many days. When is hard to say.>> I might also throw in a neon goby (I've had 2 in past but they only lasted ~ six months) before taking more drastic measures. I'd sure appreciate your thoughts on all this. Thanks. KEITH <<Keith, my thinking is thus - many times problems that present themselves as parasitic are actually induced by stress. Treating the problem as parasitic would only increase the stress, and eventually there is no battle to win - the fish give out. I would really consider the possibility that there are chemical contagions [can we call them that? - nasty organophosphates and the like] which are terribly bad for people let alone fish, remaining in your tank. This is one of the reasons they tent the house. I would pick up a Poly-Filter [name brand] or two and run these in the circulation path of your system. Make sure there's nothing in the water that will foil all other efforts to bring about a cure. Then you can work at whatever parasitic problems remain with the typical therapies. Cheers, J -- >>
Minion Jason C...PolyFilter only?
Hi minion Jason C. <<Hi...>> Thanks for rapid response. When you suggested poly filter for termite related fish and ich question earlier...does that mean "Only", or would you still raise temp and lower salinity? <<I would work on one thing at a time in the main display. If you have separate quarantine tanks at your disposal, you could potentially try and treat the ich there, but... the name of the game at this point should be stress elimination - increased temperature and lowered salinity will not really help reduce stress so much. As for ich treatment, these actually work better with the fish out of the tank - speeds up the life cycle of the parasite, which could make them more virulent depending on the state of the system. Try the Poly Filter for a couple of days - if you find the thing turning colors quickly, then you know you've got contamination problems - if it stays white or turns brown from organic matter, work on the ich.>> Cause I just bumped up thermometer 2 degrees and took out 5 gal of salt water and replaced w fresh water. Wondering how green Bubbletip will react to changes. <<Oh... I didn't notice that inhabitant before - I would think "not well" - invertebrates don't do well in low salinity. The shrimp "might" make it through 1.018 but all bets are off for the anemone. Perhaps try instead a regimen of pH-adjusted, freshwater dips for the fish.>> Of interest--a hermit crab and small snail were accidentally left in tank during tenting AND BOTH SURVIVED! Cool, huh? <<Well - maybe... I mean, if everything else were hating it and these were the only things that survived... not so cool then. In my mind there's just too many reasons to be concerned about the pesticides.>> Also, the blue tang and Queen angel are both looking better than they did yesterday. So am I probably, I might add. <<I know the feeling.>> They're both constantly over at the shrimp station. <<That would be a good thing, as Martha Stewart would say... or perhaps she isn't saying that so much anymore.>> Oh yeah, and how do we know you're not just some neighbor kid of Bob's? <<Uhh... you don't ;-) Because I live in Massachusetts? Or what if I was a Mira Mesa neighborhood punk - what then? Cheers, J -- >>

Amazing Poly Filters and Coppered Live rock! Anthony, thanks for the help. Is PolyFilter a brand name or product name?  <it is an amazing product "Poly Filter" from Poly-Bio Marine. I swear that I am not a spokesperson or have ever even received a free sample! Its just a great product. It is a pad that acts as a chemical adsorptive media (replaces or compliments carbon). The cool thing is that it changes colors to indicate the contaminants that it picks up: blue for copper, yellow for ammonia, orange for rust, or simply brown for general organics> Some of the live rock had been in the tank during a copper treatment but even directly after that I didn't have any problems with snails and such.  <whoa, bud! That's because the carbonate material did not immediately dissolve and liberate copper. There IS local copper contamination in you water that may not show up on a test kit but will kill invertebrates in the microclimate. All carbonate live rock and sand dissolves slowly in time. 100 lbs of live rock put in a reef tank weighs say 80 lbs 5 years later when the tank is torn down. Carbonate bound copper is slowly being liberated. If you didn't know it before, NO medication should ever be dosed in a display tank. Quarantine tanks and fallow periods take care of sick fish and infected systems> In replacing live rock can over-nighted rock be added directly to the tank?  <absolutely not, my friend. Air-shipped live rock needs to be cured. 7-10 days despite shameful claims by many of "cured" live rock. When the rock arrives in the same narrow cardboard boxes that it was shipped out of Fiji in... rest assured, that rock hasn't seen water for over a week> I am thinking about changing it out anyways for much larger pieces. I have a copper test kit and will give it a go and get back to you.  <no worries... and don't expect to see much copper free in the water... this is a matter of chemical adsorption... not free ions> Thanks again. <best regards, Anthony>

Polyfilter Dear Sir, We are a small wholesale company and are looking for the manufacturer of a so called "Polyfilter". This is a white pad and (as we heard) is used in the dialyses technique with patients having kidney problems. This filter is also used for aquarium purposes for cleaning the water. I have no idea whether this is used elsewhere for aquarium use. Would you have any idea where this could be purchased? many thanks, John van Lune AquaHolland Holland <The manufacturer is Poly-Bio-Marine. Their URL: http://www.poly-bio-marine.com/ Bob Fenner, WetWebMedia.com> www.aquaholland.com < http://www.aquaholland.com/>
Re: Polyfilter
Hello Bob, Thanks for your help. This was exactly what I was searching. Best Regards, John <Ah, good. A pleasure. Bob Fenner>

Polyfilter bob, Yesterday I put 3 pads of PolyFilter on the chemical tray part of my trickle filter. In one day all the pads are blue. From pulling out the copper in my 240. Now since the pads are blue, does that mean that the pads are 100% exhausted? should I throw them away right now? Thanks <Read the directions that came with this product. Bob Fenner> Linstun

Re: copper Bob, I've been unable to find PolyFilter at any of the LFS's. I have one more to try and then I'll let you know what's going on. Thanks again for the help. <Mmm, great product... do try the etailers listed on our Links Pages if all else fails: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/links.htm Bob Fenner> Jeff

Polyfilter Mr. Fenner, I am trying to limit algae growth by placing PolyFilter to my Fluval 404 canister filter. My question is by using PolyFilter, will my skimmer still work along with the PolyFilter? Thanks! <Yes, fine. Bob Fenner>

Re: Polyfilter Mr. Fenner, I forgot to ask you one other important question concerning the use of Poly-Filters. Can Poly-Filters be use along with activated carbon?  <Yes... a great product (really) that can be used with most anything other than dye and metal-salt based medications. Bob Fenner>

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