FAQs about Sexy Shrimp, Thor
Related Articles: Hippolytid Cleaner Shrimp,
A Few Common Shrimps for the Marine Aquarium by James W.
Related FAQs: Hippolytids 1, Hippolytids 2, Hippolytid Identification, Hippolytid Behavior, Hippolytid Compatibility, Hippolytid Selection, Hippolytid Systems, Hippolytid Feeding, Hippolytid Disease, Hippolytid Reproduction, & FAQs on All
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Sexy and Anemone Shrimp;
incomp. w/ clowns/anemone already established
Dear Wet Web Crew,
Hello again, many thanks for all that you do so generously. I have a
curious situation I would like to share with you all. Upon shopping at
my local fish store, I found two little critters that caught my
attention. A Sexy Shrimp, and an Anemone Shrimp. Now throwing caution to
the wind I immediately purchased them both. With jubilant excitement I
added both to my tank thinking this would be a great addition to my Rose
Bubble tip Anemone. How wrong I was. First was the Sexy Shrimp, upon
entering the Anemone he seemed to struggle against the tentacles,
eventually settling in between the tentacles on the flat part of the
skin. Well my two clowns (Ocellaris) did not take well to this intruder
and quickly chased the poor little guy to a crevice deep within the live
rock. The Anemone Shrimp was then added hoping it would go better since
he was bigger. This went horribly wrong as the poor shrimp got
immediately wrapped up by the Anemone to be consumed. Now I question if
he really was an Anemone Shrimp in the first place,
<Do you have images? A species name?>
but all my research shows that it was. I have no picture but I describe
him as being 3/4 inch long, almost all clear with 2 white spots on his
abdomen and 2 more on the tip of his tail. He also had slender pincers
with a purple hew to them.
<... could be one of many Periclimenes spp.>
I know this is vague as descriptions go, but why did he get gobbled up
so quickly. Is it possibly because of the type of Anemone (Rose Bubble
I can ad that it is in a 90 gallon tank, with the Anemone being 14-16
inches across hosted by 2 Ocellaris clowns. I assume to never see the
sexy shrimp again. Any insights, thoughts, or info to make sense of what
happened would be greatly appreciated. I was also hoping to ad a
porcelain crab to the Anemone, but now am second guessing.
<I wouldn't be adding any more symbionts for this BTA. Bob Fenner>
Thank you all.
Mixing crustaceans in a bucket
Can I house a sexy shrimp and pom pom crab in a 1 gallon hob
refugium with rock rubble, Chaeto, and Mysid?
<Maybe... the crab may eat the shrimp if it gets the chance, becomes
hungry. Bob Fenner>
Sexy Shrimp Compatibility, 6/6/2012
I have a six gallon tank with two Maxi-Mini anemones,
one Aiptasia anemone, two Calliactis tricolor anemones and one
mantis shrimp -- (small, less than an inch) almost certain it's
the smasher type. I want to add at least three sexy shrimp to this tank.
Can sexy shrimp safely walk on the Aiptasia and tricolor
The rock (island) that contains the mantis and Aiptasia is on the
opposite side of the tank that the rock with the two Maxis are on and
the tricolors are on a shell in the sand bed in the middle of the tank.
Would it be likely that the sexy shrimp will stay close enough to the
Maxis or on them so that the mantis won't be able to get them?
Would the mantis even be interested in eating these shrimp?
<Only for breakfast, lunch or dinner.>
And FYI: I feed the mantis and anemones Mysis (will be adding mixed
ocean meat stew to their regimen soon though) about every five days or
<These would be mantis food.>
sexy shrimp breeding tank
First I want to say you guys are amazing! it's a pleasure to read
articles on your site every day! OK, I have a 90 Gallon reef tank with
leather corals, mushrooms and a few other softies. My tank has about
70-100lbs of live rock and the fish are as follows: Yellow tang, green
Chromis and a little baby Catalufa. I also have 40 turbo snails, 20
hermits and a Coral Banded shrimp.
<Yikes... the Big Eye will eat this in time>
my sump is very basic. a 55 gallon tank with a filter sock, some LR,
Octopus 250 skimmer and a Mag 9 return pump with one overflow almost in
the middle of the tank. I want to convert this to a sexy shrimp breeder
tank, maybe purchase about 50 of them. I want to add a variety of
plants and macro algae in the tank. I also want to keep peppermint
shrimp as well. I know I will need to get rid of the Catalufa and Coral
banded shrimp, but will I need to lose the yellow tang and Chromis?
how will the sump / Mag 9 affect the shrimp?
<Will destroy them if they go through>
I know I will need to install some sort of sponge barrier for the
overflow. The substrate is 2" of sand, not bare bottom.
The list of plants/macros I was thinking of getting are as follows..
Cactus Caulerpa, Chaeto, Fern Caulerpa, Flame Algae, Halimeda,
Laurencia, Oar grass and Ulva. I know all will not survive in my tank
but I'm hoping a few will and then I will purchase more of the ones
<Won't have to... likely one or more of the Caulerpa will come
to predominate... poison the others, over shadow>
Lighting is 6 x T5HO's and the bulbs should be 6.5k according to
the plants I want to keep. I do plan on keeping a 10 gallon tank and
raising some sort of live food such as brine shrimp for the baby sexy
how does this sound for now?
<Like a neat experiment, experience>
Thanks in advance!
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Tubastrea aurea... Rambling re SW stkg... reefs
I have 2 salt water reef tanks. I have one a 30 gal Nano tank with a
yellow watchman goby, a purple fire fish, a peaceful serpent
star-Ophiolepsis superba, Nassarius snails which I love, one or two
turbo snails, green striped mushrooms, branching frogspawn, some polyps
that grew from a live rock I had for 4 or 5 years first, pulsing xenia
and a yellow polyp rock.
4 inch sand bed (had 6 inches but was 1/3 tank so removed some).
I would like to know if it would be safe to add sexy anemone
shrimp (3 of these) and a feather duster.
<Mmm, not likely... too easily consumed here, no likely
I do a water change every 7-10 days and all the parameters are so far
perfect. Because I have been feeding more I have been careful to keep
up the water changes and noting for any nitrate increases. This tank
has been up for 2 years. A Bak Pak protein skimmer as this is a oceanic
BioCube and I use the back empty (no balls for filters just a pump a
kind of sump)
The first tank we had is a 75 gallon reef tank with about 75 pounds or
more of live rock(had so much more but used some in the 30 gallon and
some seems to crumble or dissolve away. Still have plenty. Sand is
variable, in a wave so that the front center has 4 inch sand bed around
the bases of the rocks less and to the back less.
I have a huge large cantaloupe sized open brain who is just happy as
can be, and branching frogspawn that has really grown (given some to a
friend who started a tank, and have some in the 30 gallon) I have some
And a blue mushroom. I just added a green striped mushroom rock.
I am trying to keep with the LPS as it seems they grow so wonderfully,
at least the 2 I have in the tank.
I have just added fish, a midas blenny and 7 small green Chromis. 2
serpent stars (Ophiolepsis superba), 3 reef crabs who are also ancient
and getting bigger, my Nassarius snails, a turbo or two. I would love
to add to this tank a feather duster, a fire shrimp (just one) and 3
skunk cleaner shrimp.
I also have a pencil sea urchin who has lived there since we started up
the tank--8 years ago.
I don't see any copepods in either tank. I do have bristle worm
dusters in the sand. I could add live copepods or get some from my
I would love to had a Tubastrea aurea--is it better to start with
smaller size (3-4 in) or larger size(4-5in) as I have a choice.
I realize I have to feed each of the tubes but I have a great time
feeding the fish and I am a night owl so I could feed at night each
polyp by a turkey baster. Any other ideas,
is this a good choice to try to care for.
<Not generally hardy, no>
I have a sand bottom that has areas where the frogspawn lean over
decreasing the light or a area of a cave with a outcrop overhang. I am
understanding that they need less light.
<Actually very little... are not really photosynthetic>
I would love for any comments about the new my new additions to the
tanks-shrimps and are they OK with the serpents I have. Feather
And the Tubastrea aurea. I hate to try things that will not last as it
is such a waste of life. Which is why I have few items in the tank and
relatively peaceful fish.
The fish are funny, the midas blenny about 4 inches long and the 7
small green Chromis all like to swim together the swim upstream in
front of the powerhead sort of like finding their own treadmill. I
appreciate everything that this crew has done for people like me. Thank
you so much. What a beautiful site. Even more so with the new
I feed a variety--Cyclop-eeze (frozen) Mysis shrimp formula 1 and grow
my own algae. I have compact fluorescent lighting with 2 bulbs 65 watt
10 K and 2 bulbs 65 watt actinic lighting. I have used a variety of
salt and found that I like Tropic Marin salt the best. I also used
Oceanic, Kent but still go back to Tropic Marin. I have a protein
skimmer CPR Bak Pak on the 75 gal tank. I will add a third pump as it
seems the critters love the water flow.
<The Shrimps and tubeworms should be fine here. Bob Fenner>
Re: Tubastrea aurea, reef stkg., Lysmata amboinensis
Thanks for the quick response.
I am a little confused, the 30 gal as described below--
I was wondering if I could put in 3 Sexy Anemone Shrimp and a tube worm
fan into this tank.
You said they might be consumed but by what?
<The two fishes listed>
And, in the 75 gallon tank as described below-- for the 75 gallon tank
with the 4 65 watt bulbs I can put the Tubastrea under a rock overhang
so the light doesn't reach them. I would think then I would have to
carefully feed them by turning off the protein skimmer and using a
turkey baster with Cyclop-eeze (is what I thought to feed them) for
each polyp a couple times a week.
Is this a good idea or would you recommend I finding a different LPS
that might be easier to work with.
<I'd peruse WWM re>
I have been encouraged to stick with the LPS.
And, I wanted to also add to this tank 1 fire shrimp, 3 skunk cleaner
shrimp and the tub worm fan.
I am sorry if I seemed to be rambling, I was hoping to give you a idea
of my tanks and the inhabitants.
I would appreciate clarification.
And, I love they way your new site is set up. It is wonderful!!
<Thank you Sue. BobF>
Re: Acanthastrea having issues, Thor amboinensis comp. w/
Thanks for the advice. I have a bit of an update and am only following
up because I'd hate to lose this specimen and it does not appear to
be improving so far.
I think I've isolated the culprit(s); my Thor amboinensis. Have you
heard anything about them picking at corals?
<These little Hippolytids will do so if very hungry... I consider
them more opportunistic than predaceous>
I've heard that elsewhere amongst all of the proclamations that
they are "Reef safe" or "reef safe with
However, in the past months I've seen them constantly pick at my
Zoas and a large Palythoas that I have, as well as the Acan. Before I
was not sure whether they cause damage but they certainly keep the Zoas
closed and annoyed quite often.
Anyhow, I saw one of these shrimp perched on the Acan and picking at
it... maybe "tearing" is a more suitable word, because it was
literally pulling off pieces of the tissue. It wasn't just the
dead/dying tissue, but healthy-looking portions of the polyps. The
shrimp appeared to be putting quite a bit of effort into each
"yank" with its claws so it was clearly pulling something off
of the coral. I isolated this shrimp and put it in a small plastic
container within the tank, and soon saw another shrimp doing the same
thing. They're now cellmates. The corals are open more than usual
and I will keep an eye on the Acan but it is really suffering. Is there
any insight that visual inspection can provide?
I've read that color of the revealed skeleton can indicate
bacterial infection. Should I continue feeding more or less often?
<I'd check all over again, continue with best practices,
Move it to higher or lower lighting/flow? Could continued harassment by
these small shrimp have caused progressive tissue damage and eventual
deterioration/death? How "far gone" can the coral be and
<To the point of very little live tissue being extant>
I will probably be trading in these two meddlesome shrimp, and possibly
the other two if I see a pattern in their behavior. Maybe the appetite
for coral meat is an individual thing.
FYI my two clowns just finished their Maracyn 2 treatment in a hospital
tank and the fin is already recovering.
<And you. BobF>
Sexy shrimp, porcelain crab, Perc clowns, and rbta
I have a large BioCube
<An oxymoron... jumbo shrimp, military intelligence...>
currently with a RBTA and 2 juvenile (est. 6-8 months old) onyx Percs
hosting in it, running on DIY LEDs.
The BioCube has SteveT's fishguard installed, and plastic mesh
(sewing grid guide for yarn projects, as per Karen's Rose Anemones
site) tied completely around the powerhead intakes, as part of my
efforts to anemone- and fish-proof the tank.
I'd like to introduce sexy shrimps and/or porcelain crabs to this
I did some quick Googling and reading WWM FAQs and noted from some
forum posts that porcelain crabs may attempt to boot my clowns out of
the rbta, which is why I'm considering adding another (r)bta.
<Mmm, I wouldn't do this... unless they're genetic clones,
there's too much chance of trouble twixt>
I'd probably get one from a fellow area reefer whose rbtas
regularly clone themselves (in fact my current one is from him,
it's healthy, feeding, and very colorful, etc.).
Is there any compatibility information on sexy shrimp, porcelain crabs,
and clowns in a tank with a limited number of host anemone?
<I can/will only offer my personal observations here. Have seen
Porcellanids and Clowns together in Carpet Anemone species in the
wild... and Sexy Shrimp in Anemones that had or lacked Amphiprionines,
but have not
"run" (or swam) into a situation where all three were
resident in one such Actinarian species, and have never seen two of
them in an Entacmaea. I don't know, but don't think this will
work. Bob Fenner>
|Sexy Shrimp and Ricordea Compatibility, and
Elacatinus repro. 12/5/07 Hello to the crew of WWM,
I want to start by saying that I find myself browsing the FAQs
frequently and really love the wealth of information you all have
compiled. I have a 14 gallon BioCube loosely set up as a Caribbean
species tank. It contains: Fish/inverts: 1 Lysmata amboinensis
(skunk cleaner shrimp)* *2* *Elacatinus multifasciatus (Green
banded goby) <Neat fish> 3 Thor amboinensis (sexy shrimp, I
realize these also come from the Pacific but it goes with the
"theme") 1 Mithrax crab <Keep your eye on this...
Mithraculus often become predaceous> 1 Lybia tesselata (I
believe this is the name, its a Pom Pom crab) and a small cleanup
crew corals: ~14 polyps of assorted Ricordea florida which aside
from maybe two other small frags are the focus of my tank. My main
question concerns the Ricordea and the sexy shrimp. The sexy shrimp
like to pick on one color morph in particular, they leave all the
others almost entirely alone. I have looked around on various
forums and find lots of conflicting info to whether they will cause
any damage to the corals or not, although they seem to have a
reputation for picking on Zoanthids. <Mmm, this species lives in
association with a few Classes of Cnidarians... does little actual
damage to their commensal hosts...> The Ricordea in question
shrivel up after being picked at, but so far always eventually open
up again. This has been going on since I added the shrimp (approx.
2-3 weeks). Tonight however, I noticed 2 of the Ricordea they
usually pick on had open mouths and small amounts of brown material
coming out of them. I have read on WWM that this is their
"intestines" <Most likely...> and I am worried that
they are going to be stressed to the point of death. I have
included a picture of how they looked just after getting picked at
a few days ago (forgive me if I did not attach it correctly, it is
a jpeg and under 200Kb). I am looking for advice on whether they
will be alright or not and what I should do, ideally I do not want
to get rid of either animal as I love them both but I realize this
may not be possible. I have heard that sometimes sexy shrimp will
host LPS and maybe this would keep them off the Ricordea. Any
insight you could offer would be greatly appreciated. <Well... I
see the damage... and the shrimp... and am concerned as well... IF
you had another system I would move the shrimp likely> My
secondary question is regarding the gobies. Right now I have two,
from what I understand most gobies are territorial towards other
gobies and many sites will say to keep singly or as mated pairs,
but it seems that the green banded gobies in particular live in
small groups of multiple females and a dominant male. <Yes, have
seen this species in such associations in the wild> My goal is
to have them spawn and am not sure if I should just stay with two,
or add a couple more to maybe establish some type of harem. <I
would go with this last arrangement... at least till a pair-bond
was formed, the two did mate for the first time> I know that
they would do just fine as just a breeding pair and although I
don't plan on trying to rear the young, having satisfied their
needs to the point of establishing spawning behavior is something I
am striving for. Should I stick with the two or add more? <I
would try adding at least one more here. There are folks who raise
this genus and Gobiosoma... that employ a similar protocol to
generate pairs...> Thank you for your assistance, Kurtis
<Thank you for sharing. Bob Fenner>
Six-line bullying anemone?!?! Little Hippolytid food
item needs temp. protection 7/8/07 Hello to you!
<And you> A bit of background: we have a six-line wrasse that has
been in our 125 G tank for many months now, and a recently acquired
bubble-tip anemone that has been with us for just over a week now, in
the hopes that a pair of little Ocellaris clowns (currently in the QT
tank) will take to it later. Unknown to us, a "sexy dancing
shrimp" (that's what they're called in our LFS, anyway...)
<Mmm, it their name if this is Thor amboinensis:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/hippolytidae.htm> hitched a ride in the
anemone at the LFS and continues to make its home in the anemone even
now. <Is what they do... among other things, for needed
protection> OK, on with the problem... As strange as this might
sound, our six-line seems to be "bullying" the anemone.
<Not strange... this species can be particularly pugnacious...>
The six-line's behavior is so odd! For the last couple of days, he
has been swimming around the anemone constantly; to the point that the
anemone is frequently "shrunken" in the same way it is when
it's expelling waste after eating. During the night, because the
six-line is sleeping, the anemone gets some peace and swells back to
its normal size; in the morning, it looks great...until the six-line
starts in on it again for the day, that is! This can't be good for
the poor anemone! <... or the Shrimp... which is HIGHLY likely what
the Wrasse is after> My husband and I are wondering if the bullying
revolves around the "sexy dancing shrimp," that lives in the
anemone, in that maybe the six-line is trying to get at the tiny shrimp
to EAT it, and the anemone is simply in the way. <Yes> Perhaps
you have another, more possible explanation. Have you ever heard of
such a thing happening, and do you have any ideas on how we can make
life more enjoyable for the anemone again? <Yes... do place a
structure over the anemone for now... that will allow circulation,
light to get through (If the anemone is small perhaps a
"strawberry basket" inverted... but something chemically
inert) to separate/exclude the Wrasse for now... When you introduce the
Clowns... this is going to sound a bit weird... do place a "clown
shaped" algae clip (see your LFS re...) stuck to the tank inside
near the anemone... this will hopefully prompt/stir your Clowns into
more soon/readily associating with the Anemone... a useful technique,
particularly w/ tank-bred/raised Clowns that often have little
"clue" as to what an Anemone is. The Clowns will patrol,
stave off the Wrasse> We don't want it to be so clearly
distressed! It is a beautiful addition to our tank! Thank you so much
in advance for your help and advice! We did already look on WWM and
were unable to find anything related in the FAQ's or the articles.
Have a great day! Beth <Thank you my friend. Life to you. Bob
Thor amboinensis, comp. -- 03/15/07 Hello Bob, I
was wondering if you think it would be worth a shot trying to keep
a few Thor amboinensis with a Euphyllia glabrescens in
my 90 gallon reef. Would the coral benefit from the shrimp?
Are any "critters" I can or should add to the tank
that will benefit the other animals? <Too likely that some of the
fishes listed below would consume them. BobF> My tank inhabitants
are: 1 Zebrasoma Flavescens 1 Pseudocheilinus hexataenia 1 Cirrhilabrus
solorensis 1 Synchiropus splendidus 1 Amphiprion percula 8 Chromis
viridis 1 Pterapogon kauderni 1 Centropyge bispinosus 3 Stonogobiops
yashia 1 Pseudanthias ventralis Inverts: 3 Lysmata amboinensis 3
Sabellastarte sp. 11 Sabella species 2 Sabellastarte magnifica 3
Tridacna Crocea 7 Clibanarius sp. (red tip hermits) 7 Nassarius sp. 5
Astraea tecta 11 Trochus sp. 18 Nerita sp. Coral: 2 Caulastrea furcata
1 Caulastrea curvata 1 Euphyllia glabrescens 1 Briareum sp. 1 Xenia sp.
1 Cespitularia sp. 1 Cladiella sp. 2 Sinularia sp 2 Acropora (bushy
Acropora) Thank you again for your time, Brian
Tank safe for sexy anemone shrimps? -
02/09/2007 Greetings! <Evening> As part of an order headed my
way, I will be receiving 3 sexy anemone shrimps (Thor
amboinensis). <Oh yes... am wagging my tail in emulation> My plan
was to put them in my 65 gallon reef tank, but since placing the
order, I have begun to wonder just how vulnerable they
actually are given their small size (I've only seen them at my
LFS but never kept them in my own tanks). I think all
of my fish will leave them alone... with the possible exception of
the Banggai Cardinal (who seems to LOVE "anything meaty
looking" that he finds in the water column - though I've
never seen him "hunt" anything hiding in
the rocks/coral). <Mmm, I'd separate the shrimp (and their
anemone for a few days...)> Here's the complete lineup of fish
in the tank: '¢ 2 clownfish (one percula, one ocellaris -
they've paired up and spend most of their time in my branching
hammer coral!) '¢ 2 purple Firefish (Nemateleotris decora)
'¢ 3 "bar gobies" (Ptereleotris zebra) '¢ 1
Banggai Cardinal (Pterapogon kauderni) '¢ 1 Rainford's
Goby (Amblygobius rainfordi) '¢ 1 spotted mandarin
(Synchiropus picturatus) '¢ 1 red headed goby (Elacatinus
puncticulatus) '¢ 2 green-banded gobies (Elacatinus
multifasciatus) (yes, before I get in trouble, the mandarin and
Rainford's goby are both getting plenty to eat... my refugium is
rockin' with 'pods, and both fish also have taken to
eating processed food as well <g>). <Good> While there are
no anemones in the tanks, <Uhh... no good... this animal lives in
close association...> there are several Acropora and Montipora
colonies in the tank (and a few other types of SPS as well) for
the sexy shrimp to find homes in (I am under the impression the
shrimp will be content with these corals as "homes" since
that's how I've seen them at my LFS?). <Mmm, no, not
likely> Anyhow - do you think the Banggai (or perhaps the Bar
Gobies) will have them for lunch if I put them in the tank... or
should they be fine as long as they are placed near a good coral
colony to start? <Need to be placed with a symbiotic anemone... the
fishes will avoid this> I do have 10- and 12- gallon tanks set up as
well that the shrimp could go into if you think the 65 will be
"unsafe" for them after all, though those two tanks are
dedicated to lower light soft corals (Capnella, etc. which
don't seem as conducive to becoming homes for the
shrimp?)... <I would place the shrimp elsewhere...> What say the
gurus of WetWebMedia? Thanks for your help!! -Nate <Bob
Tank safe for sexy anemone shrimps? - II - 02/11/2007
Thanks for the reply... and confirming my suspicions! <Welcome> I
appreciate you giving me "the real scoop," since, as
mentioned, I have seen the shrimp on Acropora before at my LFS (I
am now guessing it was only because there was no anemone provided
by the LFS?!), <Yes> and this blurb on LiveAquaria's
site certainly implies that corals are "fine homes" for
these shrimp (see end of the first paragraph). <Mmm... maybe w/o
potential predators present... love that ona mata peia...> Either
way, thanks for the insights - if I decide to track down
an anemone for the shrimp (and set up another tank - I do have a
20 gallon sitting vacant and I'm sure my wife would
LOVE it if I set up ANOTHER tank in the house <g>),
<Heee!> is there an "ideal" anemone I should try
to find for these guys? <Mmm, yes... depends on where
your specimens originated... could be a Condylactis if from the TWA...
other if from the Pacific... is posted on the Net, WWM> Thanks again
for your insights and wisdom... Nate <Mmm, little to no wisdom...
some accumulated knowledge. Cheers, BobF>
Thor amboinensis - requirements - 04/27/06 Hi crew,
<Nick> I have a 30g FOWLR tank that has been running for about 15
months. Livestock at the mo is: 2 x Amphiprion ocellaris (tank-bred) 1
x Gramma loreto 1 x Centropyge eibli (still only small but hates my
Gramma so its going to a friends new 250g reef) <Too crowded...>
When I remove the angel I'm not going to add any new fish as
I'm aware I was pushing it livestock-wise. I'm currently
thinking of inverts I could add to the tank, I need something that is
relatively easy to keep and that preferably isn't a L. debelius or
L. amboinensis as I've kept these in the past and fancy a change. I
was thinking of maybe a small group of Thor amboinensis but after
reading conflicting reports on this species I'm not too sure of its
requirements, does it require an anemone or host coral to survive or
can it thrive without assuming there are no predators in the tank?
<... a risk in this size system... Best kept with host
anemone...> Do you think my tank could sustain 2-3 of these shrimps?
<Not likely, no> Many thanks