FAQs on Acclimation
Related Articles: Acclimation,
Quarantine ppt., pt.s 1, 2,
7 by Bob Fenner Acclimation Articles by Bob Fenner, Acclimation in the
Business by Bob Fenner, Acclimating Photosynthetic Reef
Invertebrates to Captive Lighting, Methylene Blue,
Related FAQs: Acclimation 1, Acclimation 2, Acclimation 3, Acclimating Marine Invertebrates, &
FAQs on Acclimation: Rationale/Use, Tools/Gear, Methods, Controversies, Troubles/fixing, & Acclimating Invertebrates, Acclimation of Livestock in
the Business, Dips/Baths 1,
Some ref.s, some places, folks suggest different
adjuncts... do read thoroughly re specific uses, cautionary
Bob Fenner Sugar
I recently watched a MACNA talk by Bob Fenner about anemones in the trade, and
near the end he mentioned using sugar as an easy energy source for ill fish and
inverts. I have tried to find other information and recommendations about using
sugar for this purpose, and wasn't able to find
anything yet. Can I get a little more guidance on this, recommended
<There is a bit by Hans Hvass in one of the early MERGUS Angel/BF books by
Steene and Allen and I think the Pet Library ltd. books in the hobby realm;
otherwise you'll have to delve into a scientific literature search. (See WWM Re,
and the use of hexoses, iodide/ate)... This is an old, but reliable
adjunct to re-stabilizing challenged aquatic (and terrestrial life). Am out on a
dive liveaboard currently so don't have much capacity to look up, nor relate.
Please write back w/ specific questions, concerns. Bob Fenner>
Lowering pH for acclimation; commercial
We have used vinegar to lower pH so far. It worked fairly well however
recently we have created acclimation system where we plan to keep fish
for observation for first week before releasing them into holding system
that's dosed up with medication.
We used our same old practice of reducing pH with vinegar on the whole
system rather than reducing in acclimation tanks and simply release the
fish straight into the system and let pH go up on its on over next few
<? I would NOT do this. Vinegar/CH3COOH has other properties, potential
side effects. I WOULD only use it (or hydrochloric/muriatic acid, CO2...
DURING acclimation, flushing any acid/s out ahead of placement of the
livestock in your tanks>
This worked wonders in first few days and we lowered fish loss to below
1% (after doa), however when bacterial bloom sets that's where problems
with insufficient oxygen appear and fish begin to suffocate.
This lead us to consider changing to something else rather than using
vinegar which causes bacterial bloom.
We need to lower pH in our system from 8.1-8.3 to 6.3-6.6 I have read up
our old E-mails and have seen us mentioning CO2 and diluted HCl.
Would you recon these two methods would be better and would not cause a
bacterial bloom afterwards in the same system setup we used vinegar in?
<Likely so; yes; though AGAIN, I would NOT add them to your tanks. ONLY
in whatever system/tubs... you're using for initial acclimation>
Would pumping all that CO2 required to lower pH to desired level still
be safe for the fish?
What concentration of HCl should be used and does it have any side
effects like bacterial bloom or other danger to fish if used in our
system as planned?
<Please BE CAREFUL here; inorganic acids are "quicker" and often MORE
concentrated than organics like vinegars. You NEED to practice,
PRE-mixing a quantity of known concentration (I'd get 3 molar... aka
Muriatic... pool acid and CAREFULLY measure and CAREFULLY mix (acid to
water) a given quantity TO YOUR ACCLIMATION WATER that is premixed, AND
after an hour or so, MEASURE the pH of the solution for use in dripping.
ADJUST IT before use, NOT during>
We have 8% and 30% available at chemical stores.
What would the correct dose be for each of the mentioned methods per
liter/gallon of water?
<USE the lower concentration (the 8%), the correct dose determination is
a function of the alkalinity of your source water, the salt/s you're
using.... BEST BY FAR to experiment as stated above; MEASURE the
pre-mixed water volume (Mark it on the tank), AND MEASURE the amount/s
of acid you're adding to lower the pH of the mixing/acclimation water;
and ALWAYS measure pH of the solution before actual use>
Looking forward to your response.
<PLEASE be careful Branko. Splashed concentrate acids are dangerous...
Quarantine question; rdg.
Hello WetWebMedia Crew! First of all, allow me to say that I truly am a
big fan of your forum as it is a source of much information ...... thank
you also for quickly replying to my emails in the past.
I have a quick question for you today, about quarantine procedures
...... I recently purchased some golden semilarvatus butterflies and a
tigerpyge to be shipped from the USA to Manila. I have read that
butterflies and Centropyge have a high sensitivity to copper and that
the next best thing to get them started with the quarantine procedure is
to do a freshwater dip with Methylene blue?
<Yes; one approach that is less toxic; effective>
1. What is the ratio of freshwater to Methylene blue?
<VERY safe; you just want the water VERY blue... Can't say the ratio, as
individual products are of differing concentration. Put in enough that
you can't see the bottom of the container>
2. And do I dip them as soon as the shipment arrives?
<No; need to flush out the ammonia in the fishes... and the water. READ
and the linked files above; till you're sure you know what you're doing>
Or do I wait for a few days before doing the dip?
<For these species, I would do along with the acclimation protocol...
i.e., on arrival>
I am just a bit worried that the fishes will be highly stressed out from
the long flight time?
<I understand. IF they do appear too stressed, you can wait for the
dip/bath procedure later... as you suggest.>
Would love to hear your thoughts on this. And thank you very much in
<DO write back if all is not clear. Bob Fenner>
Re: Quarantine question 6/8/17
Hi Bob! Thank you very much for the prompt reply.
Will read on the link you forwarded and will send you an email again if
I do have further questions. Truly truly appreciate all your advice.
Methylene blue necessary for acclimation?
Hi your websites great, so much useful info.
I've been reading your guide to acclimatizing new imports, everything makes
sense and i am ready to trial your recommended method. The problem I have is I'm
based in the UK and I can't seem to purchase Methylene blue to add
to the freshwater dip, is it essential to add the Methylene blue?
<Not required, but helpful. Ph and temperature adjusted freshwater is fine.>
Is there any other treatment that is available in the UK that I could use in
place of the Methylene blue.
<Personally I believe in watching the animal at a dealer's for a week or so,
making sure it's healthy insofar as you can
observe, with a deposit to hold onto the fish if needed. My favorite local
retailer dips them as he receives them and again before he sells them to me, may
want to ask for this service, which they should be happy/wise to provide.
Chemical dips are possibly stressful and I consider them more of a prophylactic
for suspect animals than a requirement.>
<Glad to be of use, please follow up with your results for others' edification
and also read WWM's section on dips, it's pretty thorough. -EC3>
Re: Methylene blue necessary for acclimation?
Thanks for coming back to me so quickly.
<Now BobF; Don't know if Earl put this in my inbox....>
Sorry I wasn't very clear in my firs message, I run an lfs and am wanting
to fine sop for new fish imported.
<Uhh; please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/methbluefaqs.htm
and here: http://wetwebmedia.com/dipsadditvs.htm
Would just a freshwater dip be sufficient ?
<Uhh; let's have you scroll here:
Or do I need to get a treatment to add into the dip, if so any idea what I
might be able to use over here in the uk ?. Thanks
<Right. Bob Fenner>
Re: Filtration recommendations and Dechlorinator reaction with Copper
Hi again, I'm just reviewing your Commercial Acclimation procedure again.
For Invertebrates it's basically the same steps as the fish without the use of
Methylene Blue, but should we also employ the use of a PVP dechlorinator with
tap water as well, in order to flush out the old shipping water?
<Mmm; however it is done, you want to make sure any chlorine or chloramine is
removed. In actual practice this is rarely an issue; given the means most
facilities employ initially treating source water (contactors mostly)... and
most sanitizer IS complexed in the process of mixing with synthetic salt mix...
We are still talking marines correct?
Re: Filtration recommendations and Dechlorinator reaction with Copper
Thank you for the information. Yes marine invertebrates, more specifically SPS
and LPS corals.
<... Okay; a carbon contactor for removing the sanitizer; or for a smaller
facility/volume, pre-mixing and storing new water. BobF>
Dip for new fish SW Dips\Baths
<Hi John, Happy New Year>
Upon reading the procedure for acclimatising saltwater fish, am I
correct in thinking Meth Blue can be used with saltwater for a dip?
Salinity in my display is 1.022 (all other parameters are acceptable)
and I would like to use this water, rather then fresh, to gradually
acclimatise new fish in a separate container.
<That is fine.>
Once acclimatised (around 30mins?),
I'll add Meth Blue, leave it for around 15mins and then net the
New fish include a Harlequin Tusk, followed by five Humbugs.
Thanks again for your previous prompt replies.
<No problems with what you propose.>
Buffering and Quarantine: Water Chemistry Post-RO
filtration and pH Acclimation 12/20/2009
Dear WWM Crew,
Thanks again for your generosity! We greatly appreciate your gifts of
knowledge, experience and valuable time! You do a wonderful job of
helping the novices and pros alike. Thank you so much!
<Thank you for the kind words.>
Just two brief clarifications today.
First, I have begun pre-buffering my RO water with Seachem Reef Buffer
after discovering that it was dreadfully acidic.
<Which is usually the case post RO.>
I have not noticed any significant changes so far but wanted to ask how
much this will effect the ionic balance of my water. Would it be better
to use the Seachem Reef Builder product instead, or perhaps nothing at
all? Of course opinions vary on this subject. FYI, I have a lightly
stocked 110 gallon reef system and I don't think that water
parameters are needed in this email.
<It never ceases to amaze me that we (and I include myself in this
statement) filter everything out of our water only to put most of it
right back in again, but I digress. In any case, the method that works
for me is this. I add simple baking soda to the water to get it either
neutral or slightly caustic. After which, I add my salt mix; l after
that has all dissolved, I test again and make any adjustments that may
Secondly, I have set up a 30 gallon cycled quarantine system in
anticipation of some fish from Live Aquaria.com.
<Bravo on following QT procedures.>
From what I understand, pH shock is perhaps the most common cause of
death with mail order specimens.
<Yes.><<Mmm, much more the change in charge of ammonia
coupled with too high pH in new water. RMF>>
I was considering keeping the system at around 7.8 using the Aquarium
Pharmaceuticals product "pH Down".
The reasoning being that the water will be quite acidic on arrival.
Does this sound like a wise choice to you?
<That would work, but you are putting extra work upon yourself.
Easier, would be to drip acclimate the new fish to the QT water pH and
What if the bag water is significantly lower or higher in terms of
Is it advisable to adjust the quarantine water in accordance to testing
the bag water before the fish go in?
<No, again, better the adjust the bag water (smaller volume, much
easier to adjust) to the QT tank.>
Thanks so much!!
<My pleasure as always.>
Colloidal Silver? On another board someone
recommends over and over putting a few drops of colloidal silver into
the bag new fish come in, while acclimating them, as a way of
preventing/eliminating disease, etc. Claims always has
healthy fish, never introduces disease. Can anyone at WWM confirm
this? Has anyone done it? Just curious. <There
were some fish medications that used to contain silver salts... there
is need to be within a narrow margin of concentration of actual silver
ions... so, no to "putting a few drops" into a
"bag". Some folks still use Methylene blue (mainly for
freshwater) or furan compounds in their shipping water... these are
safe, effective. Bob Fenner>
Treating new fish 6/18/03 Hello Anthony,
<cheers, mate> I thought about Formalin, but was worried about
its effects on the filter (which is biological)? <valid... but not
so severe as many other meds (like copper, Methylene blue,
erythromycin, etc)> I will consider a formalin dip, the Melafix was
added because I had some and I thought it would be fine with the shark.
<agreed... I do believe it is safe for the shark... and safe for the
parasites too <G>> how lo would you say to lower the salinity
by (if the shark was removed)? <1.018> I am completely struck on
transshipped marines and I am due a list from Hawaii. Can you suggest
any thing from there that is really good or worth having? <many fine
wrasses, a few dwarf angels... beautiful triggers and Tobies (dwarf
puffers)...> in my mind I am thinking flame angels, potters angel,
Lemonpeel angels, yellow Sailfin tangs, chevron tangs - common but
sought after! <the tangs yes... very much. Great fishes and hardy.
The Potters... no way. They are so delicate that many don't even
make it to the US mainland. Not a strong fish under any circumstance...
lets leave those beauties in the sea. Lemonpeels and Flames can be
quite hardy once established though. Very fine.> Regards, Sam
<best regards, Anthony>
Medication for adding fish 9/13/05 Bob, can
you take a look at this message regarding the "secret
formula". Do you know of any such thing? Regards, Salty
<I also know of no such "magic herbal remedy"...
RMF> Medication for adding fish Hello: About 6 years ago I
started in the hobby of keeping a fish only marine aquarium. Like
most beginners, my luck with keeping the fish alive for an
extended period of time (more than 1 year) was severely limited.
I never had any luck with certain species, specifically the Blue
(Hippo) Tang... and not quite sure why. I have a 125 gallon tank.
With around 250lbs of live rock. Water quality was
"theoretically" perfect, yet the Blue Tangs I would
keep would perish within a few weeks or couple of months. Anyway,
about 3 years ago, I visited a local fish store and I was
discussing this problem with the owner of the store and he sold
me a "medication" to add to the tank when the fish were
showing signs of stress or when I was adding a new fish to the
tank. This "medication" was contained in 2 small (5
ml.) dropper bottles, labeled "Part A" and "Part
B" - and was sold in a small clear plastic box. I was
informed that this product was only available to the trade to
assist in reducing stress on the fish after transportation. I
have no idea what this product was (it was explained as a
herbal-based medication) The store owner said he wasn't
supposed to sell this medication... although I'm not sure why
- but it worked absolute wonders. Anyway - to cut a long story
short, I purchased another Blue Tang and used this medication
when adding the fish to my tank. The fish showed absolutely no
signs of stress (which is very rare for Blue Tangs). A couple of
drops (of each part) of this medicine on day one, and another
drop of each 4 days later helped this Tang tremendously. Also, a
couple of other fish that were rather lethargic, were revitalized
- especially a Harlequin Tuskfish. The entire tank thrived for
about 2 and a half years... until a "bad accident" that
occurred when we had our house redecorated, wiped out the entire
tank - which was, at the time, rather annoying and disappointing.
I am in the process of re-establishing the tank, and have had it
set up for 6 weeks without adding any fish yet. Do you have any
idea what this "medication" was and where I can get it
from - it really worked miracles. Also, I plan to do fish-only
again and want to select colorful fish that are quite hardy... in
this case what would you recommend. Any info you could provide is
greatly appreciated. <Jeff, I know of no "secret"
formula for stressed out fish. Will run this by Mr. Fenner for
his input. As far as starting over, I suggest you search our WWM
site, keywords, "startup" and "quarantine".
If things are done properly, no special medication should ever be
needed. As to fish, clowns, Dottybacks and wrasses are all quite
colorful and hardy. James (Salty Dog)> Thanks, Jeff
Medication for adding fish 9/16/05 Would the
product name "Reef Remedy" possibly be the product
I'm looking for? <I've never heard of the
product.> I think this might have been the name of the
product, since I found a piece of paper in my cabinet that
had this name written on it. Are you familiar with such a
product? <No> I just remember it working wonders for the
fish, especially when acclimating. Finally, do you
have any comments or opinions on the products Bio-Spira Marine
(for saltwater) and Purigen (by Seachem) filter absorbent
for organics and nitrogenous waste removal. Both of
these products have come highly recommended by my local FSH.
<I prefer Chemi-Pure myself. I've heard Purigen
works well also, but never used Spira Marine and have heard
nothing about the product. James (Salty Dog)>
Medication for adding fish 9/13/05
Bob, can you take a look at this message regarding the "secret
formula". Do you know of any such thing? Regards, Salty <I also
know of no such "magic herbal remedy"... RMF> Medication
for adding fish Hello: About 6 years ago I started in the hobby of
keeping a fish only marine aquarium. Like most beginners, my luck with
keeping the fish alive for an extended period of time (more than 1
year) was severely limited. I never had any luck with certain species,
specifically the Blue (Hippo) Tang... and not quite sure why. I have a
125 gallon tank. With around 250lbs of live rock. Water quality was
"theoretically" perfect, yet the Blue Tangs I would keep
would perish within a few weeks or couple of months. Anyway, about 3
years ago, I visited a local fish store and I was discussing this
problem with the owner of the store and he sold me a
"medication" to add to the tank when the fish were showing
signs of stress or when I was adding a new fish to the tank. This
"medication" was contained in 2 small (5 ml.) dropper
bottles, labeled "Part A" and "Part B" - and was
sold in a small clear plastic box. I was informed that this product was
only available to the trade to assist in reducing stress on the fish
after transportation. I have no idea what this product was (it was
explained as a herbal-based medication) The store owner said he
wasn't supposed to sell this medication... although I'm not
sure why - but it worked absolute wonders. Anyway - to cut a long story
short, I purchased another Blue Tang and used this medication when
adding the fish to my tank. The fish showed absolutely no signs of
stress (which is very rare for Blue Tangs). A couple of drops (of each
part) of this medicine on day one, and another drop of each 4 days
later helped this Tang tremendously. Also, a couple of other fish that
were rather lethargic, were revitalized - especially a Harlequin
Tuskfish. The entire tank thrived for about 2 and a half years... until
a "bad accident" that occurred when we had our house
redecorated, wiped out the entire tank - which was, at the time, rather
annoying and disappointing. I am in the process of re-establishing the
tank, and have had it set up for 6 weeks without adding any fish yet.
Do you have any idea what this "medication" was and where I
can get it from - it really worked miracles. Also, I plan to do
fish-only again and want to select colorful fish that are quite
hardy... in this case what would you recommend. Any info you could
provide is greatly appreciated. <Jeff, I know of no
"secret" formula for stressed out fish. Will run this by Mr.
Fenner for his input. As far as starting over, I suggest you search our
WWM site, keywords, "startup" and "quarantine". If
things are done properly, no special medication should ever be needed.
As to fish, clowns, Dottybacks and wrasses are all quite colorful and
hardy. James (Salty Dog)> Thanks, Jeff
Medication for adding fish 9/16/05 Would the
product name "Reef Remedy" possibly be the product
I'm looking for? <I've never heard of the product.>
I think this might have been the name of the product, since I found
a piece of paper in my cabinet that had this name written on it.
Are you familiar with such a product? <No> I just remember it
working wonders for the fish, especially when acclimating.
Finally, do you have any comments or opinions on the products Bio-Spira
Marine (for saltwater) and Purigen (by Seachem) filter absorbent
for organics and nitrogenous waste removal. Both of
these products have come highly recommended by my local FSH. <I
prefer Chemi-Pure myself. I've heard Purigen works well
also, but never used Spira Marine and have heard nothing about the
product. James (Salty Dog)> Thanks, Jeff
Emperor Angel, Breathing and
Vertical - 5/11/06 Hi All, <Dave> I am a long
time reader, first time writer who is (or more accurately, whose
fish is) potentially quickly running out of options.
I purchased a changing Emperor Angel from
saltwaterfish.com. I have never before had any
troubles with them other than this. I followed my
usual acclimation procedure. I opened the bag and
dripped for four hours to acclimate him to my QT
system. The acclimation container was dosed with Para
Guard. This took place last night. <... four
hours? ParaGuard has a toxic component> Since I opened the bag
and first looked at him, he has been breathing very heavily and
bobbing in a vertical position, head down. <Did you match the
pH of the drip water with that in the shipping bag?> The
vendor assured me that the fish is merely in shock from the
stress of shipping and that he would calm down. <Something to
hope for> I don't believe that; I have seen this sort of
thing happen before and an shocked fish usually comes around
within 12 hours. This fish has been in the tank now
for over 24 hours and has shown no signs whatsoever of
improvement. <No quarantine?> He continues to
breathe at give or take 170 gill movements/minute, and bob head
down, <Very bad signs> usually at the top of the tank but
will occasionally move down some. The current seems to toss him
around and when it gets him completely upside down he rights
himself only to resume his vertical position. He is
refusing food. He is sharing the QT system with an
Assasi Trigger (separated by eggcrate, of course) who is eating
fine and seems to be in perfect health. <Oh! Good> I am
worried that I am dealing with disease, possibly the early stages
of Marine Velvet. <Mmm, not likely> The fish
has shown no physical signs other than what I described though;
no spots, no off colors, no scratching. I don't
want to dip him if unnecessary as I don't want to stress the
fish any further. I have not seen any feces to know if
internal bacterial may be to blame. What action would
you recommend, if any? Thanks in advance, Dave <Is a bit late,
but to have matched the pH... Please see here: http://wetwebmedia.com/acclimat.htm
Particularly the Guerilla piece below... This is highly likely
the root cause of trouble here... shock, hemolysis from pH shift,
endogenous ammonia... perhaps with a Malachite burn to boot:
... I would try to stabilize this animal, leave the lights off...
and add a pentose or hexose sugar as proscribed on WWM. Bob
Re: Emperor Angel, Breathing and
Vertical - 5/11/06 Bob, <Dave> Thanks for your
quick reply. I might not have been completely clear in
my message, but wanted to address your concerns to clarify if I
had done something wrong. <Let's do... am a
bit blurry from travel/ing> Unfortunately, the fish died
overnight. I am working with the vendor. However, I
think it prudent to do a "post-mortem" on my
acclimation procedure to make sure I did what I should have
done. <Good idea> First, I acclimated over four
hours, but only introduced Para Guard during the last hour of the
acclimation. I followed the directions on the bottle
to the letter. <Mmm, am still (as you will find...
from long practice) not a fan of using Malachite... the principal
ingredient, other than "aldehydes" in this fine SeaChem
product... in dips for newly arrived marine fishes> Second,
the drip water was from the quarantine tank which had in turn
come from the main tank, which was already at 8.3. You
are correct in assuming that I did not test the PH of the bag
water and match it to the tank water. <You will find as well
that this is an incredibly important step in moving marines
around in "long time" conditions... bringing livestock
from one system quickly (let's say an hour or so) from/to
another is a very different matter> I have never performed
that step, but after perusing the acclimation guide (quickly) it
looks like you are talking about a FW dip. <Mmm, no... this is
a different concept/idea... protocol> That is not a step I
performed. I acclimated him to the QT tank's
seawater. Third, the fish exhibited this behavior
even before I removed him from the bag. Nothing
changed about his behavior at any time, what I saw when I peered
into the bag even before cutting it open is what I described,
ergo he did not take on this behavior during the procedure, but
rather he arrived this way. <Yes... not unusual
for marine angels, most marine fish groups to exhibit this sort
of behavior... indicative of "shipping stress"... low
pH, coupled with low dissolved oxygen, likely high CO2/carbonic
acid concentration...> Fourth, when I say the fish has been in
the tank for 24 hours I mean the quarantine tank, but I think you
realized that further on in my message. <Yes> Given these
clarifications, would you still say something was wrong with the
way I did things, or was the fish doomed from the
start? Thanks again for your help so far!
Dave <Mmm, a matter of speculation/s and a few possible
inputs, but if you had a hundred, a thousand such fishes to
process, you'd find that using Methylene Blue, eschewing the
use of Malachite Green, and especially adjusting/matching the
shipping water pH to the acclimation/dip water would save a
significant number of animals... this has become an
"industry practice" of high regard... largely due to
the efforts of Phil Shane/Quality Marine and the fine folks at
TMC in the UK... to give credit where it's due. Bob
Freshwater bath add-ons ... good
ideas 5/26/06 Hello, <Jonathan> A strange thought
occurred to me today. I was remembering that marine fish
'drink water' to maintain their osmotic balance, thus you can
use a vitamin supplement in their water and they will passively absorb
some. And fish often times initially come in underfed /
malnourished. <This is so> Do you think it would worth it if a
put some VitaChem or liquid gold in their freshwater bath? <Can
help... though minimally due to the short duration of such
dips/baths> Its usually only a bath for about 7 minutes duration,
but in that time I can see their gills are really pumping and their
probably taking in water faster than normal, being that their stressed
/ surprised. Also I'm thinking that besides the load parasites that
meet their doom in the freshwater, a fish also sheds off some of its
slime coat while in the freshwater bath. <Yes> Do you think wise
to place the fish in a bucket of tank water with Novaqua or any other
artificial slime coat product? <As a S.O.P. I have done this for
decades in commercial settings, yes> I ask to place in a
separate bucket afterwards because I assume if I take a squirt of
Novaqua while a begin the bath it will negate some of bath, the
artificial slime coat benefiting the parasites as they hide beneath it.
<Mmm, no... For the most part all get sloughed off...>
I suppose I could squirt in a little Novaqua toward then
end of the bath. What do you think? <Is what I do,
endorse... Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/acclimat.htm>
[p.s. Do you respond in email to questions or do I look them up on the
site?] <Both. Cheers, Bob Fenner>
Guerilla Acclimation Techniques 7/5/08 Does
this page exist anymore? <Mmm, yes... renamed:
http://wetwebmedia.com/acclimat.htm > I have read the acclimation
page, but in the FAQs people seem to reference another method
(guerilla) and several chemicals not used in the acclimation technique
on the current acclimation article page. Thanks Matthew Harless
<Re-named Commercial instead of Guerilla... more PC? Bob
Shipment coming tomorrow... acclimation question Hi Jason,
(or Bob if you're back). Thanks for being there with all the
great assistance! <You are welcome by both of us> Tomorrow
I will receive my first shipment of mail-order livestock, (from
FFExpress) and I think I'm ready. I have read and re-read
your page on acclimation (www.wetwebmedia.com/acclimat.htm), and
am all set up to follow the saltwater fish "guerilla"
acclimation technique. I have just a couple small questions: #1
Using the kitty litter boxes, is it safe to acclimate several
fish in the same container at the same time (as long as they are
not the types to be aggressive towards each other)? <Yes,
quite safe... In wholesale practice we often separate venomous
fishes (e.g. Scorpionfishes, plotosid catfishes...) and larger,
very aggressive fishes (e.g. triggers), but otherwise, most often
mix together as bags are opened/processed> #2 Though it
indicates that inverts, etc "merit a separate
discussion", I couldn't find anything, so maybe you
could give me counsel on the few non-fish I'm getting: a. 3
cleaner shrimp b. 3 peppermint shrimp c. 1 fire cleaner shrimp d.
1 green bubble anemone e. 1 Indonesian red Ricordea <I would
place all of the shrimps together for acclimation, and the two
cnidarians together... but do "drain" (I strain with
hand movement) the anemone's shipping water in moving it to
the acclimation tray> Thanks So Much! Jim Raub <Be
chatting. Bob Fenner>
Re: Shipment coming tomorrow... acclimation question Hi
Guys (and welcome back, Bob). <Hello and thank you> Sorry
to be dense, here, but I just want to confirm that the same fresh
water, pH-adjusted, PVP, Meth blue, Maracide, Maracyn acclimation
solution I will use on the fish is A OK for the shrimp and
cnidarians. <Mmm, not freshwater... I would use the same other
components, but with seawater of about the same density as the
shipping water the non-fishes are in> Also, confirming that
unlike with the fish, where we keep their water and add in the
acclimation solution, I should try to drain away as much of the
shipping water as possible from the cnidarians, and basically
just immerse them into the acclimation solution. (That
hand-straining thing... should I worry about being stung?)
<Yes to the technique and no problem with the calloused parts
of your hands... do try to keep the stinging-celled animals off
your wrist skin... and take care to wash your hands after
handling... can be a real owee on your mucus membranes...>
Really Sincere Thanks and Appreciation for all your help! Jim
Raub <A pleasure my friend. Bob Fenner>
Questions on acclimating fish for retail sales.. Hi Bob, My
name is Leland Foley and I am starting a Marine Fish/Reef Retail
store. <Outstanding... I will gladly shake the hand of anyone
who would (try to) be self-employed. Welcome to our industry> I have
worked in many other retail stores, including a couple of years for
Inland Aquatics. <Ahh, Morgan Lidster and I are known to each
other> Anyway, I have been around long enough to learn a great deal
about fish acclimation, and I really like the way you suggest to
acclimate marine fish, but I have a few questions. <Please> 1.)
How do you incorporate dips into your Guerilla Acclimation Techniques?
I believe, as I'm sure you do as well, that the PVP based
dechlorinator, in combination with the Methylene blue really helps the
fish to survive the stresses of shipping, <Yes> but after this
acclimation procedure, would it be too stressful to put them into a
formalin dip before putting them into the main system tanks? <Good
question... as it has the usual (lame) "it depends"... by and
large if most all marine fish livestock is in "good enough"
shape from this point in an/the acclimation protocol, it's
"probably okay" (more beneficial than potentially
detrimental) to proceed with another dipping/bath sequence...>
I'm a strong believer in formalin dips and freshwater dips. They
are primarily what I use when I receive a shipment of fish, because
I'm sure as you know Clownfishes, and others will die of
Brooklynella or crypto quite quickly if not treated immediately upon
arrival. <Agreed, especially with Clowns> My acclimation
procedure consists of floating the bags to equalize the temps, and then
in small batches putting the fish into a saltwater and Formalin dip, or
a straight freshwater dip with bicarbonate. I've found that a great
deal of fish will die in a freshwater dip, but do just fine in a
saltwater with formalin dip. <As always... intelligence and
experience go into deciding/judging dip types, duration...> Then the
fish are removed from the dip and placed into a quarantine system (500
gal.) that is run by oversized wet/dries, mild protein skimming, and
very strong U.V. sterilization. The fish are given high quality fresh
seafood (shrimp, squid, marine fish, etc..) treated with garlic and
Metronidazole for the first week then flake foods and various frozen
foods are introduced. <Wow, quite an expensive undertaking... but
worth it> I only use the garlic as a flavor enhancer, it might help
remove worms, but this is not the primary reason I use it. <I
understand> If a fish pops up with a bacterial infection we dip it
again and carefully keep it overfed. If ich pops up on 3 or more fish
we add copper to the system. Which brings me to my last question, 2.)
What form of copper chelated or non-chelated can be used with UV
sterilizers on? Or better yet what brand do you recommend? <In a
large operation, volume or livestock flow-wise, non-chelated like the
Kordon or Aquarium Systems product... Wouldn't, don't use
chelated varieties on sleeved or non-sleeved UVs> Sorry for the long
post, but as you know this is what makes or breaks ones profits in this
industry, <I do know this... agree. Please make it known if I may be
of assistance. Bob Fenner> Thanks,