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FAQs on Anemones and Their Systems 1

Related Articles: Anemones Bubble Tip Anemones, LTAs, Cnidarians, Colored/Dyed AnemonesAcclimating Symbiotic Reef Invertebrates to Captive Lighting, Coldwater AnemonesMarine Light, & Lighting

Related FAQs: Anemone Systems 2, Anemone Systems 3, Cnidarian Systems, Anemone Lighting 1, Anemones, Anemones 2, LTAs, Caribbean Anemones, Condylactis, Aiptasia Anemones, Anemones and Clownfishes, Anemone Reproduction, Anemone Selection, Anemone Health, Anemone Behavior, Anemone Placement, Anemone FeedingAnemone Identification

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Anemone Success
Doing what it takes to keep Anemones healthy long-term

by Robert (Bob) Fenner

Rose Bubble tip Anemone 3/22/04 Dear Sirs: I have researched your site for the answer to this question but cant find it. I have a 175 gal reef with generally good water parameters. My Calcium is a little low at 320 but my Alk is at 4mg/l. My pH shifts between 8.2 and 7.8 which I know is a little extreme but I have a calc reactor so this is problematic, I'm thinking abut dosing with Kalk at night to remedy this. My nitrates and phosphates are at 0. <Your pH swings could be remedied by better water movement at the surface of the water, opening stand doors and other actions to achieve better CO2 out gassing.  I am assuming that your Alk is in mEq/l not mg/l.> My question regards a rose bubble tip I purchased about a month ago from my local store. In the store it was shrunk up to about 3 inch in diameter and displayed bubble tips on the tentacles. It came attached to a rock because I insisted that they give me the rock also so not to tear the foot in removal. I placed the rock at the base of the reef with plenty of light ( 2 250 watt 10000 k metal halides and 1 400 watt metal halide in the center of the hood with 2 96 watt actinic power compacts in the front of the hood). the anemone has never moved from its placement in the front of the tank and has enlarged to an enormous size at least 10 inches in diameter, the tentacles are very long without any bubble tips, a few are stringy , some of the tentacles are cork screw in shape, one tentacle has divisions with offshoots of tentacles. <Sounds like a happy anemone.  No one knows what causes the anemones to exhibit bubble tips, but it is rare for it to occur more than occasionally in aquaria.  I have had good luck with BTA's staying put, but they will move if they are unhappy.> This anemone is in a area with very low flow of current, I feed it 3 times a week and have recently increased feeding to daily on advice of a local guy who has had great success growing these out and selling them. The anemone readily consumes its food and has a maroon pair living happily in it. <If your goal is to have a very large and/or frequently dividing anemone, feed away!  The anemone will do fine on one feeding a week, it will just grow more slowly.> The tentacles move little because of lack of current and I'm wondering if this is the cause of its limp elongated tentacle appearance ?  The animal seems healthy other than this and I'm afraid to direct more current to it because I don't want it to leave it's location. I've always been told they will move if unhappy.  What are your thoughts on this limp appearance? Do you have any suggestions?  Thank you so much for your help. Sincerely: Paul Clampitt <I would suggest trying to slightly increase the current.  The anemone will appreciate indirect turbulent flow the most.  As long as you avoid any current device blowing directly at the animal, it should stay put.  Best Regards.  Adam>

Malu Anemone 3/19/04 Thanks Anthony for your advice I appreciate it and will heed it carefully. <I am very relieved to hear it my friend. Too many/most anemones simply become a statistic within weeks/months of import due to inappropriate or unnatural residencies> I have other choices. Firstly would it be possible/good to put the Anemone in my FOWLR tank? <yes... possible indeed if you can control nitrates> Or would I just be facing a losing battle with nitrates/fish waste? <do consider an inline (bucket. barrel downstream to sump) with a DSB for easy NNR> Secondly, I do have a thirty gallon tank would this be too small for a simple live rock/live sand/Anemone/clown set-up? <not bad... and better if it can be placed near a south or east facing window for natural sunlight> Thirdly, I also have a 55 gallon tank (this one I wanted to use as a sump but could bring it into service if need be) Fourthly, would it be just better to go with no live rock and just the anemone & clown on their own? <hmmm...no. Some natural substrates are recommended for plankton production to supplement the anemones feeding> Fifthly, would it be a better idea to leave out the live rock altogether and just go with the live sand/anemone/clown? <depends... some species do favor sandy/soft displays. And you could make a neat biotope display with Jawfishes or some other sand lover perhaps> Thanks again for a great, great library of information and for helping to steer me in the right direction with my evolving tanks. Simon <very welcome my friend. And my apologies if any of the replies seemed blunt or curt. Not intended at all... just trying to hack through some piles of e-mail :) Kindly, Anthony>
Malu Anemone 3/22/04 
No offence taken Anthony. I truly appreciate the impartial and unbiased advice, something we don't often get at our local fish stores. <whew! good to hear my friend. I worried it might get ascribed to brash American sensibilities <G>> The advice I got (from my LFS) about keeping a Malu Anemone was..... "they are easy to keep, all anemones are the same you just put them in your tank and they either live or die, no need for quarantine either as you can't transfer diseases" !!!!........Well there you go and it's the same advice where-ever you go. <heehee... wow, staggering. I'm glad these chaps are not food farmers!> Don't some of these retailers realize that if they give you good advice that you will trust them and go back? <so true... so true!> or are they so narrow minded that they believe that people never learn and that the needless deaths among our liquid loving friends can be avoided and in the long run this will surely be to their own benefit? <also true... to many of them forget that the product that they/we are dealing in is/are living creatures and not merely a commodity> Anyway I need to get off my high horse, sort out my nitrates before I even think of installing an anemone. Just a thought to leave you with. My wife, who is American (I am from UK) clever thing she is ! pulled a cunning stunt on me. She gave me a gallon container and asked me to fit a gallon of water into it?.....Hhhmmm......no problem!.....Could I fit 8 pints into it.....NO WAY !!...........And that, is when it hit me, when I say to you, "I have a 200 gallon tank"......that is 200 American gallons yes? <ahhh...yes. I assume that when I hear an Englishman referring to gallons, that it is a courtesy in American gallons (3.8 liters) and I forget about the Imperial gallons! We (Americans) often lump the UK in with all of Europe ("What do you mean the Brits are not using the Euro yet?" heehee...)> OK so just for the information of those Un-American guests to your site.....Don't forget there are ( I believe) 3.79 litres to an American gallon but 4.55 litres to an English gallon. Seriously this makes a big difference when making our many 'fishy' calculations....Somewhere in the region of 20% difference. <excellent... thanks for pointing this out my friend> Anyway, before I leave you and get too mixed up in our language/measurement differences ( I have had to become a cunning linguist!) as they say (and yes I still do think in feet/inches, miles etc).......too old now to change, I want to ask one more question, if I may?........ IYO is it best to leave carbon in 24/7 in a FOWLR and anemone (bubble tip) display with 45 G sump and 30 G refugium with DSB?..... <yes... always and changed frequently (weekly). Many reasons for this... principally for insuring optimal water clarity and penetration of light and sparing us light shock from water changes and less frequent uses of carbon> I do also use PolyFilters on a 24/7 basis. <an excellent product!!!> Sorry for all the questions ETC but you have convinced me to do my homework first and to "look b4 you leap" ...............and for that my friends, I thank you ! Cheers, Simon. <and cheers to you my friend, Anthony>

Is this normal anemone behavior? 3/19/04 I have a 55 gallon tank with a twin 48" fixture and a single 48" fixture.  All 40 watts and 1 blue actinic bulb.(120 watts). <This is woefully inadequate light for anemones.  I would recommend a very minimum of 4x110w VHO over a 55 to maintain anemones.> A wet/dry, a power filter, and a magnum. <This is not ideal filtration for maintaining inverts.  All of these filters promote nitrate accumulation, and the intakes of the power filters are quite dangerous to wandering anemones.  How much live rock and sand do you have?  Skimmer?> The ph is 8.2 and my nitrates is <10. <I am surprised your nitrate is so low. Do you have a deep sand bed?  What about alkalinity?> I have 1 true percula and 1 tank raised percula, 2 damsels, coral banded shrimp, a green carpet anemone, a Condylactis anemone, and a green long tentacle anemone. <Yikes!  Three anemones in a 55 is asking for trouble (aside from the light and filtration).  Interactions between them will be very unfavorable.> The Condylactis found itself a spot in the back away from all the others. It seems to be doing well.  The carpet found itself a spot right up front. <Condys can be reasonably sturdy in captivity.  Carpets range from moderately hardy to very difficult depending on the exact species.  LTA's are very difficult.  All of these anemones demand high light (at least strong VHO) and will not thrive long term under your lighting.> The LTA wants the carpets area and keeps traveling to where it is.  I keep moving it but no matter where I move it, it goes right back to where the carpet is. <This is very stressful to the animal.  When keeping anemones, you have to be prepared to allow them to settle where they are happy.> It literally smothers the carpet.  Neither seem to be affected by the others sting.  Neither backs off and neither moves away.  I was told that the carpet has a strong sting and would kill any other anemone that touches it. <I would have to agree.  I am very surprised that they are this tolerant of each other, but in the long term, both animals will suffer from this interaction.> For about 1.5 weeks they have been doing this.  Is my LTA going to die?  Are these 2 anemones able to share an area together without harming one another?  The perculas that I have share both of the anemones.  They swap back and forth.  Should I just stop worrying about the anemones and leave them alone?  I just don't want them to die?  Please help.  I keep separating the 2 but the LTA keeps going right back on top of the carpet.  I can send pictures if you want me too.   <You need to make some major changes to your system or your anemones will at best waste away over several months until they die.  Anemones are very difficult to keep in captivity and are very demanding of high water quality, high light and lack of aggression by other animals.  Increased light may put a halt to your LTA's wandering, but it is likely that even with changes to your system, you will have to give up the carpet or the LTA.  Also, while the interaction between clownfish and anemones is entertaining and fascinating, it is not necessary.  The clowns will do just fine on their own.  I am sorry for having such bad news, but the fact is that anemones are very demanding and delicate.  Best of luck!  Adam> Michele Morehouse

-Been thru the shredder...- Dear WWM crew: Once again I am turning to your remarkable collective expertise. <Hope I can help> I have a newly acquired Entacmaea quadricolor that has been through an ordeal since arriving.  I ordered two tank-raised perculas and an anemone from Liveaquaria last week.  The clownfish were fine, but the anemone was already disintegrating on arrival. <Yuck> Wanting an anemone to help the clownfish make the eventual transition from quarantine to main tank, I did a 70% water change and acquired another Entacmaea from a good fish store in Asheville, NC (Everything Fishy).  The clowns looked happy, the anemone looked healthy. <You've picked a good species, these guys are tough as nails and easily cloned.> However, I was concerned about the two intakes - an Aquaclear 300 power filter and a Prizm skimmer hang off the back of my well-established 10 gal quarantine tank. <As you should be>  I knew I had a couple of PolyFilter sleeves that would fit right over them.  To be on the safe side, I unplugged the skimmer and rigged up a housing around the Aquaclear intake consisting of a small flowerpot on a platform - then I went to the garage to find the sleeves.  You can see it coming... fifteen minutes later I returned to find that the anemone had wandered across the tank and onto the platform and into the flowerpot. <Figures> I instantly pulled the plug, dismantled the assembly and gently extracted the anemone from the intake.  I was sure it was a goner - one side appeared shredded. <You'd be surprised, it may even spur it to clone!> I settled the invalid in a corner near the same flowerpot (now on its side) and installed the sleeves.  Not knowing any anemone first aid I let things be. <Waterproof band aids anyone?> Several hours later, the anemone looked 90% recovered and had wandered into the mouth of the flowerpot, attended by happy clowns.  A glimmer of hope. The next morning there was only a shriveled walnut all the way into the flowerpot in the shade, sad clowns nearby.  Despair!  I propped up the pot a bit to give the nub some light and left for court. On returning that afternoon I saw a fully inflated anemone filling the flowerpot.  Encouraged, I try touching the tentacles with a bit of food - the tentacles just retracted, no adhesion.  That evening the mouth was open about a centimeter, and I went to bed worried. This morning I awoke to find another walnut at the bottom of the flowerpot.  Things looked bad.  But on return from court, I again have a healthy looking, fully expanded, bubble-tipped anemone!  And this afternoon he fed eagerly on some thawed Formula One from a baster.  I've attached a photo taken this evening. <You know, I checked out the picture before reading the email and I though to myself, 'self, this thing looks mint, what could possibly be the problem?'. It looks like it's going to make a full recovery, as I said, these guys are tough as nails.> Is he better?  Or am I being foolishly optimistic?  Can I do any more to help him along? <Feed weekly, maybe a little more since it's healing.> Also, is he ok planted in the pot?  I am attaching a photo of his condition tonight. <Its ok, but it's not going to help anyone who still thinks these critters are plants!> Finally, am I right to leave him in quarantine (only 10 gallons) as long as the clowns (3 weeks or so), or should I move him into my main tank (125 gallons w/30 gal refugium-sump, skimmer, LR/LS) earlier? <If the quarantine tank is not properly lighted for this critter, you should.> Thanks for all your help to the whole community. <I hope this helps! -Kevin> Malcolm Young

Anemone Size Requirements Hi guys;     I have a 20 gallon hex tank with 20 lbs of lw 10 lbs of crushed coral and a red sea Prizm skimmer. I would like to get a pair of A. ocellaris and an anemone. do you think this is possible? and if so what kind of anemone would you recommend for these fish that's also fairly hardy? also what kind of lighting would be appropriate for this kind of tank. it's 24" deep but only 16" from side to side. do you think an 18" long 96 watt power compact from Coralife would do the trick if I kept the anemone close to the surface? I've kept a sw tank for a couple of years now  but always a low light reef setup with mushrooms and polyps. thanks for your time. Mike <Hi Mike, Ryan with you.  I'm sorry, but all anemones that will host an Anemonefish will grow too large for a 20 gallon hex tank.  It wouldn't be fair to you or the animal to attempt to keep this combination.  I would recommend 55 gallons or more to attempt to keep this challenging of a creature.  Good luck, Ryan>

BTA and clowns I have unfortunately run into a problem since I wrote this original note.  My yellow tang which has had ich in the past (I had put him directly into my tank from the LFS, before I learned the value of quarantine on this site and others and he brought ich into my tank!) recently broke out with it again.  This time it appears much more serious.  After reading up on Crypt. I now figure this isn't a new infestation but rather a subsequent outbreak from the original infestation that has hit him with a vengeance this time.  Even though my wrasse has never shown a sign of the ich I'm going to follow guidelines from this site and move my fish to my quarantine, treat with copper and let the main tank run fallow for 4-6 weeks at elevated temp.  I did not do this treatment last time (again before I had found some of these great web resources) and had chosen instead to go the more "natural" route- adding a cleaner shrimp, maintaining very good water quality including frequent changes, varied and enriched diet, garlic extract, etc.  Looking back now I wish I had chosen the more aggressive route in the first place but I honestly thought I was doing the right thing by being less invasive to the tang.  This new development obviously puts my clowns/anemone purchase on hold, but the questions are still valid because once I conquer the ich I do want to get the pair of clowns (and possibly the anemone but only if I feel I can give it a good shot to survive in my environment). <I've forwarded this email to someone else with more knowledge on fish diseases. Graham.> Thanks again for your time! Mike
Re: BTA and clowns
Thank you for the response Graham! <No problem!> I will look further into the lighting thing based on your feedback.  Kind of a bummer because I liked the current setup on a canopy I created.  I thought I had heard/read that the BTA variety possibly preferred less intense lighting than some of the other anemones.   <This is true. However, keep in mind just because it may do fine under lower amounts of lighting does not mean it can be kept under any kind of lighting.> If I'm unable to upgrade the lighting are there any anemones at all that would do reasonably well under the 240W of fluorescent?   <The Condylactis anemone may do fine under that lighting. Unfortunately, this species is known for getting quite large and for not hosting with many species of clownfish.> If not I'll just strongly consider putting off my idea of getting an anemone indefinitely. Also, to answer your question I would like a few soft live corals eventually.  I was going to go for just a few lower light demanding species, which is why I also had hoped I could keep the anemone with my current lighting.  (btw, within the next couple/few years I plan on getting a larger aquarium- 150gal. + which would have many more corals and much more intense lighting.  This current 55 was kind of a trial for me to make sure I have the aptitude/desire to maintain a reef of any kind before really diving full bore into the hobby with both feet- and an open wallet. Just so you don't think I'm unwilling to invest in proper equipment ultimately).  I know there can be compatibility issues with corals and anemones which is why I planned on only the one E. Quad. and just a few soft corals.  Do you think I'm still asking for trouble even in these small numbers? <Anemones generally do better with much more intense lighting. If you choose not to upgrade, I would recommend instead buying a Sarcophyton sp. for your clownfish to host in. These corals may live under your current lighting, however they may prefer much more intense lighting than you currently have.> Lastly, I have unfortunately run into a problem since I wrote this original note.  My yellow tang which has had ich in the past (I had put him directly into my tank from the LFS, before I learned the value of quarantine on this site and others and he brought ich into my tank!) recently broke out with it again.  This time it appears much more serious.  After reading up on Crypt. I now figure this isn't a new infestation but rather a subsequent outbreak from the original infestation that has hit him with a vengeance this time.  Even though my wrasse has never shown a sign of the ich I'm going to follow guidelines from this site and move my fish to my quarantine, treat with copper and let the main tank run fallow for 4-6 weeks at elevated temp.  I did not do this treatment last time (again before I had found some of these great web resources) and had chosen instead to go the more "natural" route- adding a cleaner shrimp, maintaining very good water quality including frequent changes, varied and enriched diet, garlic extract, etc.  Looking back now I wish I had chosen the more aggressive route in the first place but I honestly thought I was doing the right thing by being less invasive to the tang.  This new development obviously puts my clowns/anemone purchase on hold, but the questions are still valid because once I conquer the ich I do want to get the pair of clowns (and possibly the anemone but only if I feel I can give it a good shot to survive in my environment). <I've forwarded this email to someone else with more knowledge on fish diseases. Graham.> Thanks again for your time! <Your welcome! Take Care, Mike!> Mike

Anemones and the lighting they need Dear crew, <Hi> I have a twenty gallon tank that I would like to put at least two or three anemones in it and a few assorted hard and soft corals. <I see a major issue here -- first, your tank is considered on the small side. In a healthy environment, anemones can get quite large. One anemone may take up a large portion of your tank leaving little room for corals which it will not eventually sting. Secondly, I advise against adding more than one anemone to a smaller sized aquarium. Anemones will often battle each other for space, lighting and good. Usually when anemones battle, none of them survive. With that said, I would stick with one anemone for your 20 gallon tank.> I know that my 15 watt lights will need to be changed, but to what kind of lights and to how many watts do I need to have a healthy aquarium? <To start with, lighting only plays a small role in a healthy aquarium. Many other factors are equally important - Water quality is a huge issue. Before adding the anemone make sure everything is in order and where it is suppose to be. Anyway, 2x 65wt Power compacts would make excellent lighting for your 20 gallon (depending on the dimensions of the aquarium). You can often buy retrofit kits at almost any local pet store or online to setup the lighting exactly how you need it to be.> Thank you for your time. <No problem. On a last note, if you are still considering an anemone, I would look for a bubble tip anemone (E. quadricolor). These often do the best in captivity.>   thank you again, <Take Care, Graham.>          Sven

Clam, Anemone Tank You guys rock, <Thanks!> First off the website is awesome, I have learned so much, I recently pulled all of the coral and fish out of my 55 gal reef, and had planned on setting up a rose BTA tank with about five rose's in it (its really hard to find info on anemone only tank set ups), <Sounds good.> I have since thought about putting several clams in as well, will the anemones release too many toxins to keep clam in the tank? <Anemones will not have any chemical warfare with Tridacnid clams. Instead, I would be worried about physical warfare; make sure the anemones do not come in contact with the clams at any time.> the tank is about 20" tall with a 6" sand bed. and I run 2 175w MH 10000k about 6" from the surface is this enough light to keep the clams on the sand bed, <They'll do fine on the sandbed. However, keep in mind that some clams such as the T. crocea and T. maxima are rock boring clams and will attach their byssal gland to some surface. I would recommend putting them on top of an empty shell on the sandbed. When the clams attach to the shell, you may burry the shell giving the appearance that the clams are placed directly on the sandbed.> I have two 110w VHO that I could also put on. would this be to much light is there such a thing? <You're far from your limit -- you do not have too much light.> If so what VHO bulbs so I use (true actinic 50/50's etc.)?,and for the clams could I just put a piece of acrylic under the sand in the area I want them to be for their foot? If so how far under should it be buried? <That will also work well as using the empty clam shells. You may burry the clam about 1/2 into the sandbed. As an example, a clam 2" high (I'm not referring to the length of the clam, but instead the space between the foot and the mantel o the clam) would be buried around 1" in the sandbed. A clam 1" high would be buried about .5" in the sandbed. A clam 3" high would be buried around 1.5" in the sandbed. Of course, there are many exceptions and you do not have to burry the clams at all if you do not wish to. T. squamosa, T. derasa and T. gigas will do fine simply left on top of the sand.> Thanks <Take Care, Graham.> Will

- Nitrite Creep on Addition of Anemone - Hi Crew, Thanks for the advice last mail on "pods"! After a good solid 0/0 Ammonia/Nitrite, I have added a Malu anemone to my 240 litre tank. It is well (possibly over?) filtered, and although it is maybe a bit new (3 months), it has finished cycling, and is fine with the fire shrimp, hermits, Turbos, and the 2 clowns. Anyway, the LFS was holding the anemone for me in a tank on its own, with two pieces of small LR, while my system settled. They are good folks, and I asked them to find me one. They have a monster filtration system, (Star Wars + Frankenstein's Factory  :-)   ) and the folks there are real enthusiasts, so I don't want to believe there was anything bad going on. However, after adding the Malu (Saturday), I've got a little Nitrite showing (0.1 -0.2), which I am sure is not good for the anemone? I added the 2 pieces of LR at the same time, could this be causing a mini cycle ( the LR was taken out and bagged for only about 20 minutes before adding, due to the drive home). My question is, should I remove the anemone to clean (zero Nitrite) conditions until things settle, or will it be less stressful to leave it in-situ, and do some big water changes, say 20% every day...?? <Hmm... well, think is also possible the anemone is contributing to the ammonia in the tank... water changes would help. Am I given to understand that this tank is just recently cycled? If so, your system is still getting established, and I'd consider either the large water changes or removing the anemone to a separate, fully-cycled tank while the nitrite gets back down to zero... wait a week after the zero and then you're probably set to put the anemone back.> thanks for all the help...... Bob (UK) <Cheers, J -- >

Anemone health, environment Hi I had a question about two anemones I have. I own a 75 gallon tank, saltwater, all that's in it are some live rock, one maroon clown fish, and two anemones. I have had the anemones for about 4 months and they look a lot smaller than when I bought them. One of them was eating shrimp just fine but the other one I have never been able to feed shrimp all that well, it seems to be too much for it to hold on to no matter how small I make it. Now the one who was eating well isn't, they both look unhealthy, and also one of them has moved at least 4 times while the other has been in the same rock since I bought him.                               <I'm not really sure what your question is; However, I'll try to comment on the overall situation. You mentioned that your anemones have gotten smaller over time. This makes me think that they're not getting enough nutrients and therefore are losing body mass. You also mentioned that one of your anemones has moved over four times around your aquarium within the past 4 months. Most likely the anemone would have found a suitable location by now which leads me to think that something in your aquarium, such as lighting, current, or water chemistry, is causing the anemone to move. It would help to know the species of the anemones in your aquarium - I can't really say too much without knowing the species of your anemone. I would appreciate knowing your lighting and filtration of your aquarium, as well as all of your current. I can't really give you an exact answer without knowing those descriptions. Take Care, Graham.>

Getting Ready For An Anemone! First let me thank you for your insight into saltwater tanks, it is hard to find reliable information from the LFS, since they just want to make their money. <Well, there are many outstanding local fish stores out there, but it is always nice to get an opinion from someone with no vested interest in selling you anything!> Second, here is a list of what is in my 55 gallon tank at the present.  I am interested in moving a Stichodactyla haddoni into my system.  I believe that this species likes a  rock base but not too sure. I also have SOME, Zoanthus polyps in the tank.  Which can be taken out if they will have an effect in the long run.   <A rocky base is helpful. And you can always move the zoanthids away from the immediate vicinity of the anemone, although I'd remove 'em completely, myself> Animals 2x yellow tail Damsels (moving out) 1x Huma Huma (moving out) 2x three stripe damsels   1x Diamond Watchman Goby 1x Bristle star   1x serpent star 12x Turbos 1x banded shrimp 1x chocolate chip 1x sand sifting starfish 1x peppermint shrimp 1x curly Q anemone (moving out) Rock/ aragonite/live sand 40 pounds Tonga branch/slab 3 inches of aragonite/live sand Equipment Coralife 10000k /actinic about 250 watts <Are you telling 250 watts of PC, or a 250 MH with actinic supplementation? I'd advise against attempting to keep this anemone without metal halide lighting> 100 gallon rated protein skimmer about 2 cups a week So the real question is this, I would like to do some rearranging to the whole system, I will be getting a larger tank in the next year or two.  For this tank though I would like to keep this a invert only tank with a few fish.  I am looking at introducing the following into the tank once the Trigger, Damsels are gone.   <The trigger would be a good one to trade away if you intend to keep an anemone. I've seen them live in tanks with anemones, but why chance it, right?> 1x Blood Red Fire Shrimp 3x monkey shrimp 2X Sally lightfoot crabs 2x Flame Scallops 2x Maroon Clowns 2x Horseshoe crabs I am not too concerned about the anemone eating any of these guys, I am more concerned with getting some good coralline algae going, bright pink/purple and keeping a comfortable aquarium.  I am thinking that I might be overloading my system but then again most of these guys are pretty small and I will probably add about 20 pounds of live rock as time goes on.  I am also thinking about adding a pvc pipe with holes bored, behind the live rock to improve flow.  I know that this is a lot of information but it never hurts to plan ahead.   So do you think that the anemone will be ok with this type of environment and do I need to get metal halide lighting for the time being or can that wait until the larger tank is set up in the next year or two? Thanks, Tthemaddhatter <Your invert population is fine, and probably quite interesting to observe! Personally, I'd rather see you hold off on purchasing the anemone until you get the metal halide lighting. You might as well have the "infrastructure" of your system ready to go before you add the "star" of your tank (the anemone). Plus, a larger tank is a good idea for long-term maintenance of this anemone. I commend you on your foresight and planning! Good luck! Regards, Scott F>

Setting up for an anemone Hey Crew, Thanks for all of your continued efforts to educate all of us interested in this art/science. I am writing because I am in the planning stages of changing my system drastically and I would like your advice. What I have now: 55g (48" long), no sump, no refugium, 1" sand bed aragonite, some rock but no live rock, no skimmer, an emperor 400 BioWheel filter. My water parameters are: pH 8.4 by day 8.2 by night, nitrate 2.5 ppm, Ca2+ 450 ppm, PO4 is .75 ppm, alkalinity is in the 8-10ish range, salinity 1.023 (will move towards 1.025 for anemone), temp 78oC and steady as I have 2 heaters in case one craps out. Do not yet have tests for nitrite or ammonia. In the tank currently is one very large blue-knee hermit (shell ~3-4" long), 1 horseshoe crab, and a 12" snowflake eel. I have had the tank ~5 months and have lost the fish I have tried to keep (2 lions, a tang, and a flame angel, not stocked all at once of course, but in 2 rounds, after unfortunate disease). Now that I have done my research I realize I had NO idea what I was doing. So , now I have made the following plans/changes toward reaching the following goal: to stock the 55 with 1 bubble tip anemone (would welcome your suggestions on another anemone species that my be hardier/more appropriate), 1 yellow tang, 1 blue damsel, 1 flame angel, and 1 or 2 clowns: I have purchased   1) A 4x65 power compact fixture from CSL (their moonlight gimmick) that came with 2 10,000k's and 2 blue's (is this an acceptable combo or do I NEED to change it, to say 2 10,000k's and 2 50/50 6500/blue's?) (tank is 48" long btw and ~18" deep) <That sounds like good lighting for your aquarium.> 2) 2 maxi jet 1200's (300 gph each), one for each corner of the tank <You may want to look into a third Maxi Jet 1200 for the back of the aquarium, possibly facing upwards enough to make small surface agitation (which will be used as a gas exchange.> 3) Kalkwasser and Kent marine essentials for water supplementation 4) an Orion digital pH/temp meter (research lab quality) (a fantastic investment btw, $100 on eBay, costs >$750 new) I am going to get either a Euroreef or Aqua C EV (90 or 120) skimmer as soon as I find one @ the right price and will keep it on 24/7. <Both are excellent investments!> I really do not want to use a wet/dry for obvious reasons, and although I purchased one (for up to a 125 gallon) in haste, I have not begun using it and will try to sell it. I would instead like to rely on live rock and the skimmer. I am planning 20-30 lbs of base rock topped with 45 lbs or Fiji LR that I will cure after mail order. I will keep the BioWheel going at first, then remove one wheel after, say, 1 month, then remove the unit all together and place it on a 10 gallon QT next to the planned sump under the cabinet. In addition, I will be adding (and this is where I really need help) a sump and a refugium, plus the 10 gallon QT tank. For the sump I am planning a 15 or 16 gallon with first a settling chamber, then mechanical filtration ( do you think I need this?) <Nope. Biological and chemical filtration should be good enough.> , then the skimmer area. DO I need activated carbon? and if so what's the best way to incorporate that? <Activated carbon isn't needed. It will work great for removing toxins in the aquarium. Running carbon for 24 hours weekly may be a good idea as your system matures.> I do not have a drilled tank, and although I know that is better, I am going to have to settle for an overflow box for now. It should be running ~400 gph through he sump and ~300 or so through the skimmer depending on the model. For the refugium, I am planning to do a 20 long directly over the main tank. My goals for the refugium are: 1) to ensure that nitrates stay low or zero with a greatly increased (although over time) bioload 2) to provide a constant source or food (Mysis and zooplankton for the anemone, and Mysis and algae for the tangs and whatever else will eat it ) 3) aesthetics 4) micro algae reduction 5) all around better filtration Obviously I will have it draining passively into the main tank (drilled in back I suppose), probably pointed at the anemone so it can eat well. I am planning Chaetomorpha for the algae (what else can I add to help reach my goals, especially to feed the tang?) <Chaetomorpha is an excellent algae to use, especially since it grows fast and does not go sexual. As for your tangs, Nori would be the best choice (although they will sometimes consume the Chaeto). You can buy Nori at almost any grocery store, although make sure you buy unroasted and unsalted.> . I will use a 5" DSB as well, a few pieces of LR, and add a 55 watt 50/50 PC (will I need it?). <The 55wt PC will do fine, I would keep it.> I will probably go with a kit from Inland to start it off. I think a flow rate of 150-200 gph should be ideal, since my system will be ~75 gallons total. That will give an overall flow rate, including the powerheads, of 1100 gph. That pretty much sums it up. Let me add some specific questions: 1) will 45 lbs of LR plus some base rock, along with the refugium and a good skimmer be enough to handle a large bioload with out a wet/dry or BioWheel? <That should be more than enough.> 2) what order should I add the LR, sump, refugium, anemone, fish? and when should I pull the BioWheel? <I would start off with the liverock, sump, and refugium. As your system matures (as waste is processed), add a skimmer. Once your tank has started to mature, add a few fish. Once your tank has reached 7 months of age and is now much more steady (as far as water chemistry comes), add an anemone, provided that your water quality is good.> 3) do you agree that I should not implement the wet/dry that I have? <I have a wet/dry unit for a year and a half. I've found it to be one of the worst investments I've made. While it does supply good oxygen exchange, in return it produces excessive amounts of nitrate. In the long run I swapped the wet/dry out for a 90 gallon Rubbermaid refugium (which works great).> 4) will these animals likely be compatible together? <Yes, although keep in mind that damsels can be aggressive (of course, depending upon which species you choose to buy).> 5) what about the snowflake, horseshoe, and blue-knee hermit, are they compatible in the tank? or refugium? <The horseshoe crab will grow way too big for your refugium/sump, and will often knock down corals in the main tank. I wouldn't recommend keeping it. The snowflake will often knock down corals, eat smaller sized aquarium fish, and will consume any invertebrates (such as shrimp). I wouldn't recommend this, either. The blue-knee hermit will most likely do fine in the refugium.> 6) what, if any, critters would you recommend for the refugium (can I place either of the crabs in there?) <Bristle worms, Asterina starfish, copepods, isopods, amphipods, etc. all make excellent refugium residents. Some snails may also be added.> 7) do BTA's need iodine supplementation? <No. You should get more than enough iodine from your salt mix. I wouldn't recommend dosing anything unless you're testing for it using a reliable test kit (I'm quite fond of Salifert and LaMotte.)> I do not plan to add any corals or other anemones based on your advice, but are there any nice inverts I could put together with the anemone (e.g. feather dusters or something?). <Feather dusters, Sponges and Tunicates would all make great additions to your aquarium. You may want to look into buying some Zoanthids (Zoanthus sp.). These are brightly colored polyps (coral) which are easy to care for and easy to come by. These corals can be found in blue, green, red orange, yellow, pink, brown, purple, etc. Even though it's a coral, it tends to be hardy, colorful, cheap, and quick growing.> Any other pointers/advice would be greatly appreciated. I have spent a long time planning this and I refuse to act in haste and make poor decisions like I did last time. I'm reading Dr. Bob's book now. <My biggest piece of advice: Do as much research as you can before you buy anything! Also, buy the best product you can and don't be cheap. This will save you money in the long run.> Thanks so much for your thoughtful advice, Sincerely Yours, Clayton Knox <Take Care, Graham Stephan

Clowning Around! Hi, <Hello there! Scott F. with you today!> I am new to the aquarium world.  I have been planning a custom tank for my house.  I have spent the last month reading up on all the requirements and supplies.  (An unbelievable amount!)  I found your site and it is by far the most comprehensive and thorough of anything out there.  Way to go. <Awesome! Glad that you enjoy it! We're certainly happy to bring it to you!>    Well, here it is.  I am planning a custom tank; 35"L x 45" W x 22" H. I want to have live rock, some fish (tangs, clown fish and damsels) and anemones.  Several questions. <Sure> I have been thinking about getting a Hamilton retrofit light with 2- 96watt compacts and one 250 MH. Is this enough lighting for; #1 the tank size? <Depends on the animals you intend to keep. Traditionally, you'd usually use two halides in a tank of this size, but there are no hard and fast rules here> #2  Stichodactyla haddoni? <Okay- get the second halide!>   About how high should it be from the water? <I like 6-8 inches or so> I have been reading several of your posting on anemones and lighting, but as this is new to me, I am still pretty confused.  I want to get the correct stuff the first time.  I would hate to buy the wrong light.  Also, will this light set-up be sufficient for a reef tank if I want to change in the future? <If you are considering the future possibility of a reef tank, you'll definitely want more than one halide in there. As far as anemones are concerned, I'd highly recommend postponing the purchase of an anemone until you have really got the system up and running, and have developed a mastery of the basic skills you will need. Anemones as a whole have one of the most dismal survival records of any group of animals in the hobby, and are unsuitable for the vast majority of hobbyists who keep them. They require extremely high water quality, proper feeding, environmental stability, and excellent lighting, just to mention a few requirements. I certainly don't want to dampen your enthusiasm towards keeping one, but do realize the odds. These are not a readily renewable resource on the reefs. It is thought that anemones can live many, many years in nature (perhaps even hundreds of years), yet a high percentage perish in mere months in captivity. Please spend a lot of time researching there requirements before moving forward and purchasing one. Even then, you might want to start with one of the colorful and much more abundant (not to mention, hardy) Condylactis anemones. Much better choices for a new hobbyist.> I know that you don't believe that it is ok to have different types of anemones in the same tank. <Correct!> Now is that on any size tank?  Can I get away with a different type of anemone as well as the Haddoni in a tank of my size?  (Aprox 150 to 170 gal?) <I wouldn't try this...> If not, can I get two haddoni anemones or will they try to poison each other over the years as well? <I'd start with one, if you are dead set on keeping one. If you can get one to thrive, you won't miss having another one- believe me!>   Next, is the haddoni naturally blue, or is it dyed? <Blue is a natural color variation in this species> Next; I want to get clowns.  I know, what type!  Well, I was thinking about a pair of sebae. <Excellent fishes- with or without the anemone> If I want them to bond with the anemone, should they be tank raised or wild?   <Well, we get many emails from hobbyists who can't understand why their clown won't establish a relationship with their anemone. Many of the clowns available in the hobby are tank raised, and have never even seen an anemone! Even the wild caught ones will not always establish a relationship with an anemone. There's simply no guarantee, short of purchasing an anemone and it's existing clownfish occupants from the dealer.> I also want to get a pair of black and white perculas and a pair of cinnamon clowns.  Is this wise?  Will they fight all the time? Am I limited to one set of clowns and one anemone? <I'd advise against keeping more than one species of clownfish in the same tank. This is not something you'd find in nature, and not a good idea in a closed system, IMO> I would love to have several sets.   <Ok- then get several aquariums! LOL> I have so many more questions, but I will read what you have already written on those subject before I bug you with them. <There is so much to learn!>   I am grateful to have found your site.  It has been a wealth of info.  Thank you for your time in advance.   Please write back.  Dan <Our pleasure, Dan! Don't lose your enthusiasm for these animals. Just study and practice the fundamentals before attempting the anemone. There is no need to rush. Enjoy the experience at every stage! Regards, Scott F>

Anemones (1/19/04) Hi, <Hi there. Steve Allen tonight> I am new to the aquarium world. <And should therefore not keep any anemones.> I have been planning a custom tank for my house.  I have spent the last month reading up on all the requirements and supplies.  (An unbelievable amount!)  I found your site and it is by far the most comprehensive and thorough of anything out there.  Way to go. <Thanks. I'm new here, adding my little bit to the vast work of others.> Well here it is.  I am planning a custom tank; 35"L x 45" W x 22" H.  I want to have live rock, some fish (tangs, clown fish and damsels) and anemones.  <Bad idea on the anemones. Too hard to keep. Too likely to die even with adequate light. You need years of practice at maintaining pristine water conditions.> Several questions.   I have been thinking about getting a Hamilton retrofit light with 2- 96watt compacts and one 250 MH. Is this enough lighting for; #1 the tank size? #2  Stichodactyla haddoni?  <Yes, the light is adequate, it's the water quality that will kill them. You need practice.> About how high should it be from the water? <Jut a few inches. Several good articles on WWM about this.> I have been reading several of your posting on anemones and lighting, but as this is new to me, I am still pretty confused.  I want to get the correct stuff the first time.  I would hate to buy the wrong light.  Also, will this light set-up be sufficient for a reef tank if I want to change in the future? I know that you don't believe that it is ok to have different types of anemones in the same tank.  Now is that on any size tank? <Yes. Any tank your average person can fit in their house. Aloe, corals and anemones generally don't mix.> Can I get away with a different type of anemone as well as the haddoni in a tank of my size?  (Aprox 150 to 170 gal?) If not, can I get two haddoni anemones or will they try to poison each other over the years as well? Next, is the haddoni naturally blue, or is it dyed? <Some are naturally blue.> Next; I want to get clowns.  I know, what type!  Well, I was thinking about a pair of sebae.  If I want them to bond with the anemone, should they be tank raised or wild? <Tank-raised is best for a number of hardiness and environment-friendly reasons. There is no guarantee that any clown you put in your tank will take to an anemone.> I also want to get a pair of black and white perculas and a pair of cinnamon clowns.  Is this wise? <No> Will they fight all the time? <Yes, best not to mix except in a very large system> Am I limited to one set of clowns and one anemone?  I would love to have several sets. <Then get several tanks.> I have so many more questions, but I will read what you have already written on those subject before I bug you with them.  I am grateful to have found your site.  It has been a wealth of info.  Thank you for your time in advance.   Please write back.  Dan <I really encourage you to hone your marine aquarium skills on a tank without anemones. After you have a couple of years under your belt, then give it a try. Caring properly for an anemone is a lot of work with attention required more than even once a day. Try something simpler first.>

Ritteri Anemone Questions Dear WWM Crew, I have few concerns about my anemone.  First off, I apologize if I have missed a previously posted answer to any these questions; however, in my distressed state I may have missed them.   I purchased the anemone from my local fish store 2 weeks ago and it has been doing great.  It immediately anchored to a piece of live rock near the back of the tank and it and the percula clownfish have been getting along fine.  However, Thursday night it began to move a little up the rear glass and this morning (Friday), to my horror, it was attached to a rock half-way across the tank being partially sucked into the pump intake.  I  immediately cut the pump to its lowest setting but had to leave for work. When I returned from work, it had freed itself from the pump and was attached to the rear glass a few inches away.  I thought everything was fine but when I retuned from dinner it was face down in the middle of the tank. However, its tentacles were moving and it was very large so other than its orientation, it seemed ok.  I turned the pump back up to its normal setting and the anemone floated up in the water and attempted several times to "right" itself finally anchoring on its side on a piece of live rock. However, it was a precarious perch as it was on a snail and an abandoned shell so it soon released itself again but this time was unable to re-attach to anything.  The next time it floated up I attempted to gently right it but when I would try to set it on the crushed coral bed upright, it would either be unable to attach itself or would attach itself for a short time and then float up again.  Also during this time his foot became very big and puffy. Finally, exasperated and unable to right it, I left it to try more on its own and it has by now partially attached itself on its side on some live rock and it is hanging out and down.  The only thing that has changed in my tank in the past two weeks is an algae explosion (I am guessing from the lights?).  During this ordeal I was able to inspect it and have found only one defect - a small, crusty-looking lesion on its top near the mouth. I guess in conclusion I have three questions.  What could have caused him to suddenly move (my specs are below), what do I do in the future if he ever gets upside down again, and most importantly, is he going to be ok?  Thank you so much in advance. < Usually when an anemone decide to move it is because he is not happy. Something he did not like such as Light, Water flow. etc. Ritteri anemone are one the most difficult to keep they require bright light prefer halides. They also  must have massive random water flow. You also should have no powerheads in the tank with  an anemone, because of what happened. If you have not fed him yet try to. Something like cocktail shrimp (nothing cooked) As for if he is going to be ok only time will tell. If this was your first anemone try a different kind next time like a Condylactis or a long tentacled the are much easier to keep. hope this helps Mike H> Size: 30 Gal PH 8.3 Ammonia trace Nitrite 0.05 Salinity 1.025 Age 6 Months Live Rock 35 pounds Lighting 192W (10,000K White, Blue Actinic) 4 Yellow-Tailed Blue Damsels 1 Lemon Peel Angelfish 2 Percula Clowns 3 Snails    
Re: Ritteri Anemone Questions
Thank you very much for your reply.  Unfortunately, the anemone ended up not making it.  During the water change the next day, he became dislodged and fell upside down in a crevice between two rocks.  I delicately moved him (I made sure first that he was not attached anymore) back to his original spot and he seemed ok but when I returned from dinner a few hours later, he was again upside down, flat like a melted ice cream scoop.  When I flipped him, he was lifeless and barely more than a white blob.  It was actually one of the saddest things I had ever seen because the clownfish kept nipping at the net when I tried to remove it and even jumped into the net to prevent me from taking it out. :( With regards to getting another anemone, I would greatly appreciate some advice.  First off, I have a question of etiquette.  Would it be rude for me to return to the fish store and ask for a replacement/store credit? < I guess I would say yes because the powerhead did the damage> I only had him for 2 weeks and given the high price of him, it will be financially hard for me to replace.  Second, what anemone should I get to replace him?  The only anemones available at stores in my area are Long Tentacled, Bubble Tip, Ritteri, and Carpet.  My primary reason for getting an anemone was to host the clownfish.  As long as the Percula clownfish will take to the anemone, my only preference is survival rate. <I would go will either bubble or the long tentacle I have had perks take to both> Finally, what other advice do you have to increase the chance of survival of my future anemone?  I have read some of the FAQs, but my main question is given my environmental conditions stated at the bottom of this e mail, is there any thing else I can do to prepare my tank for another anemone? Thank you once again for you caring help and advice and for simply doing what you do. :) <TAKE ALL POWERHEADS OUT OF TANK everything else looks good hope this helps Mike H.> Greg

LTA's are NOT for Gifting! >Hey guys. your site is awesome.. thank you so much for running such an informative source! >>Welcome, and thanks (from one of the gals). >I am VERY new to the saltwater hobby and want to get some quick answers from you in English. >>Good thing, that's my native tongue.  I'd have to call Mom if you needed 'em in Spanish. >I'm sure the answers are already posted on here, but I don't understand all the acronyms, etc. >>Indeed, they are. >I have a 75 gallon acrylic tank with 2 hoods on top. Each hood has one light bulb in it.  It WAS a fish only tank.. With substrate, 6 or 7 pieces of dead coral, and fish.. We bought it used.  2 percula clown fish, 1 lemon damsel, 1 blue jaw trigger, and 1 hermit crab.  My wife just bought me a Long Tentacle Anemone for my birthday.  The guy at the local fish store told her they are very easy to keep and that they do not really need any special lighting.   >>He is incorrect. It is pretty big with a large orange base..  It's beautiful.  I have been enamored with them forever, but always thought they were hard to keep. She surprised me, and as soon as she presented me with it, I called the fish store, and the guy told me the same thing he had told her.. Easy to keep.. No special lighting.. Clowns will love it.. Drip water to acclimate.. Etc..etc.. >>Good lord.  I am biting my fingers (read: tongue).  Any other than pest anemones tend to be among the most difficult of invertebrates to keep, long tentacles are no different.  They need BEST water quality, very good lighting.  I shall link you, please make very good use of the links/info held within. >I dripped water from my tank into its bag for about 2 hours (to get him acclimated to the new water), and then dropped him into my tank TONIGHT. >>Alright.  Good method. >She looks great in there. Hopefully will find a spot and attach soon. >>May not with such insufficient lighting, read on. >I then jumped on the web to learn all I can about these guys. I really hope my clowns take to her, but first things first, I really hope I can keep her happy and flourishing. >>Please, for next time, first things first means learning about the animal BEFORE making the purchase.  But you wouldn't believe how many people buy others animals for their systems and often don't know the first thing.  Recently read some posts by someone whose roommate added a fish to his reef while he was gone, it was a DISASTER.  Research first. >My tank looks good after doing a bunch of water tests, but my salinity may be too low???  (at about 1.017 right now)... also, I am worried about my lighting. >>That is DEFINITELY too low.  Should be at 1.025-1.026.  Either do water changes with water of higher salinity (around 1.030) till you get it to this level, or remove tank water, add salt to this s.g. and slowly raise it up.  Don't do more quickly than over a couple to a few days, though.  We don't want to shock any residents. >I am attaching 3 pictures; one of the sticker within my hood(s) showing specs for lighting it will accept... second, a picture of the writing on one of the bulbs housed in my hood(s).. And third, a picture of the anemone. >>First two came up fine, server wouldn't give me the anemone, but no worries.  Your lighting is WOEFULLY inadequate.  You will have to use either compact fluorescents or metal halides, and this issue must be addressed within the next few weeks.  The anemone will have to be acclimated slowly to the new lighting or risk burn.  We have articles and FAQ's (frequently asked questions) regarding exactly this, and this anemone. >lease let me know what I need to do to keep her alive and well..  I hope I don't have to spend a fortune on new hoods, bulbs, etc, but give it to me straight. >>This lady is nothing BUT a straight shooter, if you can't part with the money, you'll part with the anemone one way or the other.  Do know that these animals have been shown to have lifespans so long that, like koi, they could be willed to your kin upon your death.  That means that "Oh, I had an anemone for over two years!" means NOTHING. >ALSO, assuming I needed to raise the salinity or upgrade my lighting.. How quickly do I need to do it???  Is she in danger of a quick death??? >>Salinity: start now.  Lighting, within the next month, two at the OUTSIDE. >And finally.. Should I move her towards the side of the tank (not really much to latch on to where she fell)???   And how many hours a day do I want to leave my tank lights on??? >>Try not to handle the anemone, it'll move where it wants anyway.  Only if its life is in peril (the powerhead suck, for instance).  Photoperiod should mimic tropical environs -- 12-14 hours/day. >I hope that is all.. >>We can only hope.  :p >Thanks so much!  Todd Patrie >>Very welcome, now get ready for the linkage, Todd.   http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/index.htm  Within this link, look through Setup (to address any filtration issues, since they're not mentioned), "Non-vertebrate Life 1", and "Maintenance/Operation".  The information contained therein is FAR more than what I can adequately address here.  Marina
LTA's Are Not For Gifting, part II
>Thank you Marina... >>You're welcome, Todd. >Would any of these listed bulbs be strong enough for the long tentacle anemone? >>Truthfully, not sure, I'm sending out this message to a few others as well for their input.  I would strongly suggest you bring this up on our forums http://www.wetwebfotos.com/talk >I have a feeling I'll be printing out your email and bringing it, along with the anemone back to the fish store... This is the type of tank I have - it's A "self enclosed system" by SeaClear... so I don't know if I can get custom lighting for it.. the bulbs listed are what they offer for my hoods. >>Unfortunately, I've never worked with this system, again, the boards could net you far more results.  Including possible ideas for retrofitting, it does sound as though you really love this anemone. >Thanks!  Todd >>You're welcome!  Marina >Accessories For: Brand: SeaClear Type: System II Aquarium SKU: 93076 Description: SeaClear System II 75 Regular Black, Blue, or Cobalt Blue Back More Info Brand Style SKU Dimension Description Price Accessories SeaClear  20200  System II Explore Protein Skimmer $44.99 Accessory Coralife 70320  ColorMax 18 Bulb 15w $9.99 Accessory Coralife 15 watt 70037  Coralife Actinic Blue 360 18 15w $19.99 Accessory >Coralife 15 watt 72436  Coralife 10,000K 360 18 15w $24.99 Accessory< >>This kind of information (the "10,000K" bit) is what you're looking for with bulbs.  You want to mimic the sun in terms of color temperature and intensity. >Coralife 15 watt 72196  Coralife Trichromatic 360 18 15w $19.99 Accessory >Coralife 15 watt AF863  Coralife 50/50 360 18 15 w $19.99 Accessory< >>This is another popular bulb, but in my opinion two of this, and two of the #72436 would be more in order. >>Jas, Bob, I'm leaving the body of the previous in here because I'm sending this email out to other crewmembers for opinions.  Thanks!  Marina P.S. Don't forget, I leave for Reno tomorrow morning.  Won't return till Sunday evening, late>>

Dealing With His Anemones! Hi all!, <Hello again! Scott F. with you again today!> Thanks for the quick response. So, after reading your response I have decided to sell the 30 and get something else instead. <Based upon our discussion of the "retrofit" requirements to get the tank "reef ready", this was a good decision, IMO!> My main issue is size. I already have another 60gal full of African Cichlids which I love and will not displace. My wife is not too hip of the idea of another big aquarium so what I need to know is what is the smallest aquarium that a anemone hosting two clown fish be truly happy in. <Well, a lot of the answer depends upon the ultimate size of the specific anemone you intend to keep, your equipment budget(!), and the need to accommodate any companion animals. Anemone husbandry requires a tremendous amount of attention to detail, particularly in the area of water quality and lighting. Even though lots of people are keeping anemones successfully today, the historical long-term success rate with these animals has been rather dismal. You are correct in trying to learn everything that you can to assure success! To answer your question, I'd suggest nothing smaller than a 50-75 gallon tank, as a system of this size can provide stability that a smaller tank simply cannot.> I don't want them to be just ok but truly happy ( I would also like to add two or three other small fish like hawks or gobies, I am still researching this). <An admirable goal! Again, seek the largest tank that you can afford to properly outfit.> Also I have tried to search for any info that will tell me specific lighting for anemone and have been unsuccessful. <Lots and lots and LOTS of material out there on the WWM site, books and other sources. It's out there! Do look into some of what's been written by Bob, Joyce Wilkerson, Daphne Fautin, and others. I don't like to sound overly dogmatic, but to truly achieve the goals that you're seeking, anything short of metal halide would probably be inappropriate for long term success with these animals, IMO> I would like to find a anemone that would be happy in relatively low light conditions (if there is such a thing). <Low light anemones are rather uncommon in the hobby. The more common specimens that you will encounter (such as the "Long Tentacle", Condylactis, or "Bubble Tip" anemones) require a lot of light to thrive. Many anemones that are found in lower light conditions are cold water animals, or have other specialized needs that are hard to meet. Not to mention the fact that they are generally unavailable in the hobby! Unfortunately, you'd be best sticking with the more popular and available species, even though they fall into the "high light" requirement! As you are no doubt realizing, anemones require a lot of dedication and specialized care!> Any suggestions or links to where I could find this info would be greatly appreciated. <I'd suggest starting with the Google search feature on the WWM site using the key words "anemone" or "anemone care", and then expanding your search out onto the 'net. Do obtain a copy of Joyce Wilkerson's or Daphne Fautin's fine works on the subject of Clownfishes and anemones, which provide a good starting point...> Thanks again for providing such a wonderful site. Be well, Paul <My pleasure, Paul! I wish you every success on this adventure! Good luck and enjoy the journey! Regards, Scott F>

Yellow tang and anemone troubles (8-4-03) Hi I just put a Condy in my tank on Friday.  It is Sunday afternoon and I have returned home to find my yellow tank dead and floating and my Bubbletip anemone missing.  Do you think the Condy would have done this?<I don't think the Condy did it.  The first thing I would do is check you water parameters.  Also make sure the tank didn't overheat.  Cody> Thanks, Brad

Setting up--must have anemone! >Good afternoon Marina, >>Hello again, Amir. >Again, your replies are very much appreciated and helpful. >>Very welcome. >I was planning on going slow with the stocking and at most add one soft coral or anemone every 4 to 6 weeks, as hard as it might be to resist the urge of stocking up.  I feel a bit disappointed about your suggestion of not keeping anemones and soft coral together. :(  About 10 years ago, I inherited a reef aquarium from a friend (well actually departed with some money, but got a real good deal) which had a tomato clown fish and its host anemone as part of the stock, with some other inverts which I can't remember.  I really like the clown and anemone relationship and I felt like that was a must have for me, and was planning on it to be my first additions, but now I am worried.   >>Since that is the case, then I suggest you get the anemone FIRST.  I would recommend that you limit it to one anemone for the system, and I recommend something on the hardy side, like a BTA (bubble-tip anemone).  Let it settle in, give it a few weeks.  Be sure to make use of the information we have on site on anemones, they'll be a bit more picky on the lighting issues, though not all are.  Then stock the softies you want, before adding any fish.  Invertebrates do not place the same demands on the system vertebrates do, so you have great leeway in this regard. >Unfortunately that was in another life, and my ex inherited the tank and I don't know what happened after that.  If I limit myself to only that one anemone, as I am mostly interested in soft corals, do you think it will be Ok in a 75G environment, or you still think it is absolutely a bad idea?  I am not really shopping for an answer that I might like better, just want to see whether there is any thing I can do to have what I wanted most. >>I feel that since this relationship is really what you're after, find EVERYTHING you can on anemones, not just from http://www.wetwebmedia.com (look in the marine aquaria articles), but also go to other dedicated sites.  I am involved with another good site http://www.reefs.org which also puts out an online magazine, Advanced Aquarist.  Then build the system and stock around that.  I will suggest going with a more mild-mannered clown, such as Amphiprion ocellaris or A. percula, and since you really love the relationship, do consider acquiring a group of juveniles and allowing them to sort out who's going to be "top mom" (the Clownfishes change sex, all beginning as males, then the dominant animal becomes female, and one male becomes dominant male--this is the most "natural" setting for them).  After the anemone is settled, you can begin stocking with the softies, just remember that anemones do tend to wander.  I do hope this helps, and best of luck!  Marina
Setting up--must have anemone!
>Hello Marina, >>Good morning Amir. >Your input is very much appreciated.  Thank you very much for taking the time and answering my questions.   >>You are very welcome.  It is the collective wish of those of us who contribute to wetwebmedia that those who endeavor to keep such animals succeed. >I think that they are very good advice.  I do visit Reefs.org often, but not as often as wetweb, and find it to be a helpful site.  Thanks again.  Me and my future tank inhabitants are eternally grateful. >>Again, very welcome Amir.  I am very glad I could be of help.  I hope everything goes smoothly with your new setup!  Marina

Re: AGA Overflow prefilter: follow ups on reef husbandry 6/13/03 Thanks again Oh Nocturnal One! <heehee... very true. A natural born owl :) > I'm assuming you're on the right coast where it is now after 2AM. <I am east coast: PA > When do you guys sleep?   <our crew members cover the nation coast to coast, literally. And most of us are manic <G>> I've been doing 15% water changes every 10 to 14 days.   <that's a light schedule for most aquaria IMO if growth is a primary goal (aside from other issues). But in your case without a skimmer and with noxious Caulerpa in tow... I fear it can be a problem in time (1-3 year frame)> As far as bio-load; this will be primarily a reef set-up consisting of pretty much corals only.  Probably  just a couple of stars, sand-sifters and clowns for Anenomes.   <please do read through our archives and especially the FAQs on anemones regarding their inclusion in a reef. A terrible idea, my friend. Never mix motile cnidarians (anemones, jellyfish, etc)( with sessile ones (corals)... truly a recipe for disaster for most. Many other complications/needs with the anemones too: best for a species tank. Perhaps a nice 60 gallon hex by the window for natural sunlight with a single MH lamp atop? > As far as having an incredible patient/understanding wife?  Naw.................just asexual.  I leave her alone and she returns the favor!  Kind of like Al & Peg Bundy, if you get my drift!  Thanks again Anthony, it's greatly appreciated. Greg, Berkeley, IL <Hmmm... Al Bundy. The thought of you typing your e-mail with one hand tucked in your trousers ala Bundy-style suddenly just disturbed me. I feel so dirty now.  Bob says you are not aloud to write here anymore <G>. Ha! Best regards, Anthony>

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