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FAQs on Bulb, Bubble Tip/Rose Anemone Health 6

Related Articles: Bubble Tip, Rose Anemones, Entacmaea quadricolor, Use in Marine Systems by Bob Fenner, Bubble Tip Anemones by Jim Black,  Recent Experiences with BTA's by Marc Quattromani, Anemones, Cnidarians, Colored/Dyed Anemones

Related FAQs: BTA Disease 1, BTA Disease 2, BTA Disease 3, BTA Disease 4, BTA Health 5, BTA Health 7, BTA Health 8, BTA Health 9, BTA Health 10,  BTA Health 11, BTA Health 12, BTA Health 13,
FAQs on BTA Disease by Category: Diagnosing, Environmental (Pollution/Poisoning, Lighting...), Nutritional, Social (e.g. Allelopathy), Trauma, Pathogenic (Infectious, Parasitic, Viral) Predatory/Pest, Treatments 
& E. quad. FAQ 1, E. quad FAQ 2, E. quad. FAQ 3, E. quad FAQ 4E. quad FAQ 5, BTA ID, BTA Compatibility, BTA Selection, BTA Behavior, BTA Systems, BTA Feeding, BTA Reproduction/Propagation,



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Anemone Success
Doing what it takes to keep Anemones healthy long-term

by Robert (Bob) Fenner

Bleached E. Quadricolor, Zooxanthellae, Inadequate Environment -- 1/6/08 Hello, my name is David. <Hello David, Brenda here> I have just started my saltwater adventure and am running into a little problem. I have an 8 gallon tank, everything is running very smoothly. I have one false Percula clown, 5 snails and a peppermint shrimp. <An Ocellaris needs at least a 20 gallon aquarium.> I also have one grape frogspawn. I recently bought a white anemone from my LFS. I need help identifying the anemone. I can't find any pictures that resemble it. <It is a bleached E. quadricolor (Bubble Tip Anemone / BTA). Your anemone is white because it has expelled its zooxanthellae. This is an unhealthy anemone, and should not be kept in an 8 gallon tank. It needs to be kept in an established (6 -- 12 months old) tank of approximately 50 gallons or more. Some people have kept anemones in smaller tanks (20 -- 25 gallons). However those that are successful at it have been in the hobby for a while, and are knowledgeable in the care and requirements of an anemone.> Also I keep placing it in a little hole in the rock and it keeps floating down onto my frogspawn and they seem to bind tentacles, I think they may be fighting. <They are stinging the heck out of each other. The anemone is unhealthy, and will not be the winner.> This is going on quite consistently and it has me worried. I bought the anemone as a host for my clown; will this provide a good host? <No, this anemone will not survive long term in an 8 gallon tank.> How can I stop these attacks? <You can't. The anemone is stressed, unhealthy, and in an inadequate environment. It will continue to roam until its death. I recommend taking it back to the place that you bought it from and researching before your purchase.> Thank you so much. <You're welcome! I wish I had better news for you. Brenda>

Going, going...

Re: E. quadricolor 911 -- 1/04/08 I just tested the tank on New Years Day. I use a master reef test kit. <I don't recommend this test kit. I would go with a more reliable product, such as Salifert. In the mean time, take a water sample into a reputable LFS and have your water tested.> My tank is 47 gallon. I started out in a 10 gallon tank and upgraded to the new tank, having been up for about 7 months now. I added the anemone in August and it came from Live Aquaria. <Your tank was not ready for an anemone. It needs an established environment, six months to one year, with one year being best.> It was healthy looking when I got it and for a while after. It has looked this way for close to 3 months. I use compact lighting with a dual actinic and dual daylight. The bulbs are about 7 months old, and I have ordered more. The water parameters are: salinity 1.023, <Your salinity is too low. Gradually bring up to 1.026 by using pre-mixed saltwater as your top off water daily.> Nitrite 0.2, <Needs to be zero.> ph 8.0, Nitrate 50, <Nitrates are much too high, needs to be zero. I suggest a large water change and continue to monitor daily.> Alkalinity is low (added reef buffer) <How low?> ammonia is .25 <Much too high, a large water change should help, but you need to get to the root of the problem.> and the temp is 76. <Temperature is too low; gradually bring up to 79 -- 80.> I added 15 lbs of new rock on new years. <Was it cured?> I also added phosphate control. <Why? What were your phosphate levels? Where does your source water come from, RO, RO/DI, or Tap?> I am still learning my tank, so it is very possible I do not have something right. The size of silverside I have been feeding it is about the size of a pencil eraser. <That is too large of a piece for an anemone in this shape. Try feeding as small of a piece that you can tear off. Foods soaked in Selcon may also help.> I did notice today that the foot is spreading on the rock. I check it sometimes at night and it looks the same as under the lights. I turn on the tank when I get up in the mornings and off when I go to bed. I hope all this information helps. Oh yea, his tank mates are a yellow tang, <A 47 gallon tank is much too small for any tang.> maroon clown, blue damsel (new) several snails and crabs, <I don't recommend crabs, they can be predators.> and a new Condy anemone. <Mixing species of anemones is dangerous and likely deadly.> It lives on another rock across the tank. I hope the pictures help too. <Based on those pictures, your anemone is in very very poor shape, if not already dead. Also, you have Aiptasia anemones, which are no doubt stinging your BTA. A peppermint shrimp may help this, but you may need to protect the anemone from the shrimp while you feed it. I also suggest you be prepared for a large water change in the event that your anemone dies. Having 20 gallons or more available at all times is a good idea. Brenda>
Re: E. quadricolor 911 -- 1/04/08
I will try everything you suggested. <Excellent!> Could the nitrate and ammonia level be high because of the addition of the new cured rock I added on New Years Day? <Yes, if the rock was not cured. Since your anemone has been on the decline for a while, the addition of this rock is not the root cause of its poor health. However, you need to get those levels down quickly.> I did test the water the day after I added it. I have been zapping the Aiptasia with Joe's juice. <I would discontinue for now until the anemone is recovered. Peppermint shrimp may help, but you need to get your water parameters up to par.> I added the phosphate control due to some hair algae growth. That is what my LFS recommended. <What were your phosphate levels? I would also discontinue this for now. You don't want to stress the anemone out any more than you have to. You need to get to the root of the phosphate problem. Where is your source water coming from? Have you tested the source water? How are you storing the water? > You mentioned soaking food in Selcon. What is that? I have not heard of it. <Here is a link to Selcon: http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=5009&Nty=1&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&Ntk=All&pc=1&N=0&Ntt=selcon&Np=1  > I will try everything you recommended. <Great! I did not see a protein skimmer listed with your equipment. Are you using one, if so, which one? > Thanks for all your help. Becky <You're welcome! I'll be here to help you along the way! Brenda>

White markings on RBTA -12/22/2007 Hi Guys, <A gal here :)> First time poster! You have provided so much valuable info as I expand into the hobby. I have a 8-10" RBTA which has bright white markings as seen in the photo. I've had it for 4 months and seems healthy, its already split twice. Are these white marking normal? <Yes, they are (and pretty too--imo).> Also, the tips have never bubbled, they stay as seen in the picture. Whats that about? <Hmmm... maybe they only bubble when you're not looking. ;) J/k, well, sorta... it might be changing at night. Or, it might be a little unhappy. I can't tell if it's just the lighting of the photo or not, but it could be a wee bit faded/bleached.> Water levels are perfect! <What size tank? When it comes to anemones, there can be allelopathic concerns you can't necessarily test for.> Thanks in advance.
<De nada,
Sara M.>

Sick BTA, E. Quadricolor, Possible Chemical Warfare -- 12/2/07 Dear Crew, <Hello Andy, Brenda here> It's been a while since I rapped at ya. I have a question about the health of my BTA. I have had it for 7 months or so, during which time its color has gone from tan to a deep red. It is paired up with a Gold Stripe Maroon Clown, and they have a good relationship. I feed it about once per week with (I rotate) Mysis, small pieces of table shrimp, and chopped oyster, all soaked in Selcon. It has always readily taken food and remains open and pointed upwards most of the time. I have a 110g display (30" high) with 6x54W T5 HO (4x10000K and 2x460nm actinics) that is on about 12 hours per day (I use a timer). I plan to swap out at least the 4 10000Ks with 14000Ks when I replace my bulbs. The BTA is attached to LR very near the bottom of my tank. Since day 1, it has been in this same location, with minor realignments from time to time. I have previously posted a question to WWM about its position at the bottom of the tank and my lighting, as I was concerned that my lighting might not be enough for it, but the response was to leave things alone if the BTA was happy and doing well. <Yes, I remember. If I'm not mistaken, both James and myself answered your questions. This fixture does not have individual reflectors correct?> Over the last 7-10 days, however, I've noticed that the BTA appears a little wilted (both its foot and its tentacles) and is no longer positioned up/towards the light. <How old are the bulbs?> In fact, it appears to be resting on the glass bottom of the tank. It is still deep red in color and its foot remains attached to the same ledge of LR. Last night I tried to feed it, but it did not take the food or close up around itself as usual. <This is not a good sign. Can you send me a picture of the anemone?> As you know, you get to know your animals, and I just know that the BTA is not itself. <Yes> Ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and phosphate are all 0. Temp is stable at 77-78*, <I prefer a bit warmer temperature for anemones. I try to keep mine at 80 degrees.> pH is 8.3, alk is 3.5 meq/L, and salinity is 1.0245 (I have tried to get it up to 1.025 but can't keep it stable there due to top-off, salt creep, etc.). <Be careful with salt creep, it is dangerous to live stock. I recommend 1.026 for anemones. I suggest topping off with salt water until you get to 1.026.> I also employ a 30g fuge (4" DSB, LR and Chaeto) and a Coral Life Super Skimmer, and I run carbon in my sump (change every 4 weeks). <I would try increasing the carbon change to every 2 weeks.> I have about 85lbs of LR, a Sailfin Tang, a Royal Gramma, a Brown Combtooth Blenny, and a Canary Wrasse (in addition to the Clown), two Cleaner Shrimps, about 22 various types of shrooms, <Mushrooms are toxic. You may have a chemical war going on here. Changing your carbon more frequently may help.> 2 small tree corals, a Lemnalia, and some Xenia. I do a 10% water change each week. Water is RO/DI. <Is it time to change the filters?> Circulation is about 10x per hour. I am very careful about not introducing any foreign substances (cleaners, etc.). <Good!> Do BTAs go through these phases, or should I be worried? <This is not a phase, something is wrong here.> I don't know what I could be doing wrong or not doing. <It may be a combination of things. I suspect the mushrooms contributing largely to the problem. Lighting and RO/DI filters may also be contributing. However, I would expect the anemone to move higher up if it was not getting enough light.> Thanks for any insight you may have. Andy <You're welcome! Brenda>
Re: Sick BTA, E. Quadricolor, Possible Chemical Warfare -- 12/2/07
Thanks for the response, Brenda. <You're welcome Andy! I received both of your e-mails, and will answer both here.> I have attached 2 pictures of the BTA. Unfortunately, it's positioned itself under a ledge, oriented perpendicular to the front of the tank and out of light, so the pictures aren't that great and I couldn't get a picture of its mouth. I also don't have a macro lens yet, so the image quality is what it is . . . <Hard to tell. The pictures are much too dark. The anemone is much too small for a Maroon Clownfish. Maroons can be rough on smaller anemones. It is recommended that the anemone be 3 times larger than the clownfish. The anemone is also too small for having it 7 months with your feeding schedule. It is not getting the proper nutrition. Is the clownfish or the shrimp stealing its food?> I forgot to mention in my last e-mail that my calcium is 400, so that is where it should be as well. I tried tonight to feed it some fresh clam. It captured the clam and started to swirl its tentacles, but I'm pretty sure it never ate the food (it didn't form a bulb around itself as usual). <I suggest trying some silversides. Not all anemones will accept the same foods. There are many cases where some anemones reject many common foods, and will accept silversides. Based on the condition of the anemone, I would feed a 1/8 inch sized portion of silversides daily. Once it improves I would go to 1/4 inch sized portion every 2 to 3 days for a month or two.> Thanks again for your help. <You're welcome!> Shoot! I forgot to answer your other questions too. My RO/DI unit is 4-5 months old, and my TDS reads 148 going in and 0 going out, so I think the filters are working fine. <I would take a sample into your LFS to double check. It is not uncommon for 4-5 month old filters to need to be replaced.> My T5 bulbs are about 7 months old or so--they do not have separate reflectors. <Is it time to clean the salt off of the reflector and bulbs?> All of my mushrooms are at the edges of my tank, and the BTA sits in the middle of my tank. Relatively speaking, there isn't a mushroom near the BTA. <They do not have to be next to each other to have chemical warfare.> I will start swapping out the carbon more often. I realize that things in the marine world happen slowly (sometimes). The BTA and the shrooms have lived together for 5 or 6 months. <Chemical warfare is a perfect example of things going bad slowly. With anemones, it can take months, or even a few years before it starts showing ill signs. Brenda>
Re: Sick BTA, E. Quadricolor, Possible Chemical Warfare -- 12/4/07
Thanks again. <You're welcome!> The anemone is actually quite big when healthy, at least 3 times as big as the clown. I was able to get a feeding response from it by trying another piece of fresh clam, but it wasn't nearly as vigorous as usual. <I would still try the silversides. Are you positive that what you have is a BTA? After our last e-mail, I started thinking it may possibly be an LTA, which may explain why it hasn't climbed higher in the tank.> I clean the salt spray from the shields on my lights every week. <Good!> Andy <Brenda>
Re: Sick BTA, E. Quadricolor, Possible Chemical Warfare -- 12/5/07
Brenda, <Andy> I'm not sure of anything, although it was sold to me as a "bulb anemone" and did have bubble tips for about the first month or so, so I'm pretty sure it's a BTA. <It does appear to be.> I will get silversides tonight and start the feeding routine you suggested. I'll keep you posted. <Great! I'll keep my fingers crossed!> Thanks for all your help. Andy <You're welcome and good luck! Brenda>
Re: Sick BTA, E. Quadricolor, Possible Chemical Warfare -- 12/7/07
Well Brenda, I am at a loss as to what is going on with my BTA. For three nights I have tried to feed it small pieces of silversides and I am pretty sure that the BTA failed to eat at least 2 of those 3 times. Tonight, I stood on a chair with my arm in the tank for 45 minutes chasing all my hermits and shrimps away from the anemone hoping to ensure that it could eat unmolested. <I would remove the hermits and shrimp, or you could place a plastic strawberry basket over the anemone. However, based on the location of the anemone, I don't know if you are going to be able to do this. Removal of the shrimp and crabs is best! I have seen shrimp go digging inside an anemone looking for food several hours after feeding an anemone. Eventually the shrimp became the anemones dinner. Pay backs are rough sometimes. All crabs have the potential to be predators.> My back now aches and the skin on my hand became shriveled, and the BTA ultimately released the silverside without eating. <Ouch!> I raised my temp to 80 degrees and the salinity is now over 1.025. <Needs to be 1.026 and stable.> Is it possible that it is getting ready to split and that's why it is not eating? <Is possible, but I don't believe this is what is going on.> If it starts to die, how in the heck do I get it out of my tank? <First, I'm not sure that your anemone is going to die soon, but it is possible. It is hard to say without a better picture. However, in the even that it does, you will need to remove it quickly before the rest of your livestock dies. It is not going to be a fun easy task. If it is already falling apart (this happens rather quickly) when you find it, you may be able to suction it out. Either way, it is going to be extremely unpleasant for you and your livestock. Keep plenty of extra saltwater on hand. You will need to do a large water change and run fresh carbon. Keep a close eye on the water parameters for the first two week.> It's at the bottom of my tank with its foot firmly planted under LR. Also, I seriously believe my Clown will die from loneliness. <As I stated before, your anemone is much too small for the Maroon. They need to be separated. Maroons are harsh on a smaller anemone and likely deadly to a sick anemone. Your clownfish will be a little upset over the loss, but will not die without an anemone. Have you taken your water samples in to be tested yet? Were the readings the same as your test kits? I still believe that you do not have enough lighting to support this anemone. Unfortunately, I can not explain why it regained its color after you got it and is now ill. Your lighting, a Maroon loving it to death, water parameters, toxins in the water, the shrimp and the crabs, are all possibilities. I would start looking into finding another home for the anemone, preferably someone experienced with sick anemones. I believe this situation is going to continue to worsen. If you need help finding someone, let me know your location and I will see if I can find someone local to you. For now, I suggest contacting your closest reef club. A LFS is not likely going to take on this task.> Andy <I wish I had better news for you! Brenda>
Re: Sick BTA, E. Quadricolor, Possible Chemical Warfare -- 12/7/07
Brenda, <Andy> Without breaking down my entire tank, there is no way that I am going to get this BTA out of the tank. His foot is wedged deep between the bottom of my tank and a piece of LR. It just isn't going to happen. <Try aiming a powerhead at it (without blasting it). Maybe you'll get lucky and it will move on its own. Can you see the anemones foot from underneath the tank? Is it attached to the glass? If so, possibly something cold (soft ice pack) from underneath, along with the powerhead may irritate the foot enough to make it move. It is a long shot, but worth a try. If this doesn't work, there really is no other option other than tearing the tank apart. Letting it die is not an option in my opinion.> Believe it or not, the Clown was just a tiny sucker when I got her--dwarfed by the BTA. And as I said in a previous email, when healthy, the BTA is actually quite large--double if not triple the size of the Clown. <Yes, I am aware of that, but circumstances have changed drastically.> The one thing I totally forgot to do, and which I will do Saturday, is take my water to the LFS. Thanks again for all your time/help. Andy <You're Welcome! Brenda>
Re: Sick BTA, E. Quadricolor, Possible Chemical Warfare -- 12/7/07
Brenda, <Andy> I've read many times on WWM that "allowing an animal to die is never an option". With all due respect to the love that we all have for our animals, I don't necessarily agree that allowing an animal to die is always "wrong" and is never an "option". <I am not convinced that your anemone could not live a long healthy life if it were given the proper environment.> In fact, under appropriate circumstances, it may even be the right option. Rather, in deciding to entirely break down a large tank to save one animal, I think one needs to consider the incredible amount of stress that such action would place on all the other livestock and the possibility that, in saving one animal, you may kill others. <I am fully aware of the stress involved in tearing a tank apart. I can assure you that a dead anemone, can crash your entire system quickly, leaving you with a total loss. I did recommend the lesser of the two evils here.> In addition, in my particular situation, one needs to consider whether you will actually be able to dislodge the anemone without severely injuring it in the process. <Extreme caution is always required when handling anemones. However, it is not an impossible task.> Add to all of that the stress placed on the fish keeper, his or her available facilities (e.g., ability to move and hold healthy livestock while breaking down the tank, etc.), and any number of other factors. <When you purchase any animal, you are ultimately responsible for their care. This animal did not ask to be removed from the ocean.> My tank is large, heavy and sits on an oak stand. I can't see or access the bottom of the tank. The BTA's foot is wedged deep between the glass bottom and a large piece of live rock. I honestly do not believe that I could physically get this anemone out of this crevice without tearing its foot. The power head idea may work, though. <If you can see the foot, or have a general idea where it is, aim the powerhead in that direction.> As with everything in life, there are no absolutes, there is never only one "right" way to do things, and there is no "single" moral compass that we all must follow. We all love our animals, or we wouldn't be in the hobby. Some hobbyist obviously are more caring/thoughtful than others, but I honestly believe that very few of us go out and spend thousands of dollars on a display and thousands of hours of hard work only to take a "I don't care about my animals" attitude. I certainly do not want to see my BTA die, and I am certainly committed to keeping my livestock healthy and happy and to nurse them back to health when they are sick. <You are correct, there are no absolutes. However, given a proper environment and proper care, they won't get sick. The lack of lighting issue was mentioned to you back in early or mid October. Nearly two months have gone by. You stated that upgrading the equipment was not an option at this time. Sufficient lighting, double checking your water parameters with another source, removing the clownfish for a month or two, or finding a new home, may save this creatures life. That my friend is the 'single' moral thing to do.> Hopefully things will work out for my BTA. <I truly hope so too!> Andy <Good luck to you! I hope that someday you are able to send me an e-mail telling me that the anemone is thriving. Brenda>
Re: Sick BTA, E. Quadricolor, Possible Chemical Warfare, -- 12/8/07
Brenda, <Andy> I hereby crown you the Angry Crew Member. <You are sadly mistaken here. I am not angry, but I am disappointed in your lack of willingness to satisfy this animals needs.> The WWM Crew frequently requests that posters read their e-mails twice to make sure that the spelling, grammar, etc. is correct. <Yet I'm still fixing yours!> In the same vein, I ask you to save your responses for 12 hours and then come back and read them again to make sure you really want to hit "send". <I answer when time allows, and will continue to do so.> The only reason I am dignifying your tone/comments is that I celebrated the holidays with our friends tonight and I have a few beers in me. <Is your drug altered state of mind supposed to be funny, insulting or threatening? It is not welcome here!> I have news for you--long before October, long before you were involved in my BTA issue, even before I bought my BTA, I asked two reputable local fish stores about the suitability of my lighting system with a BTA, and each of them stated that my T5 lighting would be fine. <How is that working out for you?> In fact, I even posed the question to WWM and RMF (if memory serves) stated that my T5 lighting system should be sufficient, that the BTA would likely find its "spot" in my tank and that I would know soon enough by its movement, etc. whether it was happy. It's been 6 or 7 months . . . <The words 'likely' and 'should' are key words here, and 'soon enough' has now passed. Providing Bob with the correct information on your lighting would have been more helpful. You did not know if your T-5 lighting system had individual reflectors or not. In fact you did not understand what individual reflectors were. I explained this to you.> This is a 10-day old problem. <No, the problem started the day you purchased the anemone and placed it in your tank without researching their requirements.> When I asked you previously about my lighting, my BTA was seemingly in fine health, eating, large, and happy. <Perhaps a refresher is needed: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/spgidf7.htm > I asked you BECAUSE I was being proactive by trying to get as much info/opinion as possible. While I respect your opinion, it is not universally shared. <I have spent many hours researching and caring for anemones. The information that I provided to you is the best available to date.> Define "proper environment" and "proper care". Is it lighting? Is it food? Is it luck? <There are many factors involved. This information was previously provided to you. It is also posted many times on WWM. 'Luck' is not the answer when providing long term care for this delicate creature.> You don't know the answer, and you've admitted to me as much. <My statement in my first e-mail regarding this issue: 'The anemone appears healthy. If you have individual reflectors on your T-5s, I would leave things alone.'> If my lighting is so bad, why has my BTA remained in the same spot for 7 months and not moved to the top of my LR so that it can be as close to the light as possible? <It may not have the energy to move. It clearly doesn't even have the energy to eat.> Why has its color improved? <I have not seen this. Again, this is based on your description.> Don't lecture me about my responsibilities. I have spent countless hours researching WWM, books, articles, etc. <This is not a lecture, but a repeat of the hundreds of posts already on WetWebMedia.> I have spent thousands of dollars on supplies, equipment, etc. to ensure that my pets have a good environment. <A million dollars invested in the wrong equipment won't help.> My wife thinks I live in my basement as it is. I'm not the Baltimore Aquarium, for God's sake. I don't have 30 tanks waiting to house my fish and inverts while I rescue an animal. <You have a 110 gallon tank here. Do the math! You won't need 30 tanks.> I'm doing the best I can here, by writing you as soon as I see a problem, by feeding, by testing water, etc. <No, not the best, just what you are willing to do, and you are not considering the animal's life. Writing won't help much unless you actually act.> That's what's moral. <Obviously we don't agree here.> I fully intend to take a sample to my LFS. <Is a good choice, should have been done already.> I don't know what your day job is, but mine doesn't involve sitting at home with hours of free time on my hands to run off <to> the LFS whose hours don't always match up with my schedule. <My day job is not your business.> It will get done tomorrow. And, what if my water checks out fine? What then? <Does upgrading your lighting, removing the clownfish, chemical warfare, correcting your water parameters sound familiar?> What if the BTA is simply dying? <Anemones don't just 'simply' die without cause. They can out live both of us if given the proper environment.> I just put down my dog. She was 15. I could have spent thousands of dollars on surgery, but the vet said she probably wouldn't make it through the surgery and, even if she did, there was a good possibility that she would die anyway. He said it was just her time. <May she rest in peace! So it must be the anemone's time too?> Sometimes things just happen, and all the water changes, and MH lighting, and food, and isolation won't change a thing. <I'm not sure where you are getting your information here, but it is incorrect in this case.> Clearly there is something wrong with my BTA. <Oh yes! Clearly!> I will do all in my power to figure out what that is and hopefully remedy it. <It has been figured out for you. I have listed the remedy. It won't fix itself.> I honestly do not want my BTA to die or to foul my tank. I have invested too much time and money to want that to happen. <Perhaps a little more time and money will fix the situation.> I thank you kindly for all of your insight and help. Happy Holidays. <Andy, when you do sober up please know that I will no longer be assisting you. Brenda>
Re: BTA Health... effective communication    12/9/07
Brenda, <Mmm, no, BobF this time> You don't have to assist me anymore, but I need to set the record straight because you aren't reading. <Have just reviewed this corr. Here: http://wetwebmedia.com/btadisf6.htm > You seriously have issues. <...?> Threatening? Don't be ridiculous or a jerk. <......?> Nothing in my post could be construed as threatening. Funny? A good assessment? Yeah, those two. Maybe it's just your email mannerism, but my problem with you is that you come across as a holier than thou, know-it-all jerk (and I have seen this in many other responses from you to others, including one in which you scolded a poster by making a reference to your dying grandfather-- your day job is no one's business, but your grandfather is?). <Take care here my friend... this is neither pertinent, nor proper> I will ignore your "sober up" and "drug induced" remarks (as well as your typos that were in your earlier responses--people who live in glass houses . . .). They are wholly inappropriate based on an incorrect reading of my post. I was simply in a good mood. You have made these grand statements about how I failed to do my research, how I neglected to tell Bob about my lighting, how I am unwilling to buy a different lighting system, how I am unwilling to take the steps necessary to help my anemone, etc. They are all just plain wrong. You are right, I willingly misrepresented my lighting system to Bob when I told him that I had the "Current Nova Extreme T5 HO lighting system." I have used this same description with others as well. You guys are the fish experts, which is why we write. Even though this is an extremely popular and common unit, I guess I should have known that no one knew that it didn't have individual reflectors (and known to even ask the question/know the difference!). I take exception to your comment that I failed to do research. First, I did do research before I purchased the BTA. I read WWM, I read CMA, I researched other sites, and I asked the industry. Apparently you want me to take a college course. Many people successfully keep anemones using T5 lighting--this is evidenced by hundreds of posts on WWM and elsewhere. Show me a site other than your posts which states "if you're going to use T5 lighting with anemones, you must use individual reflectors--that Nove Extreme system just won't work." If (1) the manufacturer's description, (2) the retailer's description, and (3) two separate LFSs all indicate that the fixture is appropriate, and RMF doesn't mention anything about individual reflectors after I described my situation, why in the world would I think to ask the question? What more research could I have done? You just need to be right today, that's all. <For some/whatever record, reflectors can/do help to focus, re-direct considerable amounts of light energy> Also, I didn't say I wasn't willing to upgrade lighting--I said it was less than a year old and expensive, and I hated to trash it if I didn't have to. You suggest reflectors or MH, someone else suggests swapping in 14000K bulbs the next time I replace, someone else says my T5s are fine. Clearly a consensus, and I can understand how you could think that I am a totally irresponsible, uninformed hobbyist. <Mmm, I don't see/read Brenda as coming across, stating this> As for the 30 tank comment, I guess you don't recognize hyperbole when you see it. FYI, my water checked out fine except phosphates were a little high (0.2) and iodine levels were extremely low to non-existent, which is odd because I do weekly water changes. The LFS stated that these two factors could definitely be the cause of my BTA's refusal to eat. I have taken chemical steps to fix these issues and will try to figure out what could be causing my phosphates. I have also been able to get my BTA to eat thawed mysis shrimp the last 2 night--I don't know why it won't touch the silversides. <I encourage you to use tongs rather than placing your hands in the system for any period/length of time> I look forward to working with a calmer, less judgmental Crew member the next time around. Andy <It is my opinion from reading the corr. here that your Premnas IS much too large, is over-bullying this Entacmaea. Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marclncompfaqs.htm and that this Anemone is indeed in other ways in a less-than ideal setting in terms of light, other Cnidarian presence, foods/feeding... Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/bubbletipanemones.htm  and the linked files above. I think you should seek your free input elsewhere Andy... at least until which time you can be/are civil. I count myself a tolerant person, but will not allow such rudeness as this missal... Bob Fenner>
For Brenda/Bob... BTA hlth., more impt.ly, WWM and tolerance... a/the human cond., beh. patterns, consequences and politics  12/30/07
Dear Brenda and Bob, <Andy> I sent an e-mail to Bob's hotmail account a few weeks ago, but I'm not sure that address is functional so I thought it best to send an e-mail through WWM (and I wanted Brenda to hear me out too). So . . . now that I've had a chance to think about things . . . I have realized a few things, not the least of which is that you don't bite the hand that feeds you. WWM is a wonderful, one-of-a-kind website. There is nothing for hobbyists that parallels WWM on the web. I am very glad I found it, although I wish I had done so before I got back into the hobby. That said, I wanted to apologize to Brenda for my responses to her e-mails relating to the health of my BTA. Whether my perception of her e-mail "tone" was right or wrong, I know that you guys do this for free, because you love the hobby, and that, as I was looking to her for free help, I should have used a little bit more restraint in my responses to her. <Agreed> E-mail is impersonal and, as such, no matter in what context or forum e-mail is used, a sender's "attitude"/tone is often misinterpreted by the recipient. I think this potential is especially likely in less formal settings like (no disrespect intended) chat forums and the like. In my line of work, where client perception is everything, the manner in which an e-mail is likely to be interpreted is something of which I try to be constantly cognizant before I hit "send". <A good stance, point of view> To this end, I almost always re-read my e-mails a few times before I send them to make sure that they says and mean what I want them to say and mean. In retrospect, I should have used similar judgment in responding to Brenda and either toned things down or simply not responded at all. <You are wise here> I think the e-mail exchange between Brenda and me was a victim of such unintended interpretations. Although I honestly believe that nothing in my e-mails to Brenda could have been, or should have been, construed as rude or uncivil, I understand that "beauty is in the eye of the beholder", and I apologize to Brenda and you if either of you perceived my "tone" to be less than grateful. <I will accrue this msg. with the rest... To me... there were overtly rude statements> I know you both realize that we don't live in a perfect world, that we all have "other" lives requiring other commitments (like work, children, paying bills, etc.), that we live in houses that impose constraints on our set-ups and ability to deal with problems, that our wives don't always approve of turning basements into the National Aquarium, etc., and that, sometimes, some things are just not practical or practicable. I am very aware of the responsibilities that I took on when I decided to keep marine animals but, as with everything in life, there will always be limits as to what is possible in a given situation. When you're worried about your animals/investment and are faced with a touchy situation--when you know what your limits are and have tried to articulate them--it's difficult to listen to criticism. I honestly felt that Brenda's comments to me were someone brusque, but be that as it may I realize that she was simply giving me a dose of reality. <Mmmm, yes> I hope that Brenda and you will accept my apology and that you will remove me from the "black list". <We have no such list/s... nor have I ever, or will "block" people... Childish. I only hope to urge others to civil discourse. Realize that we all, including myself are not paid, are volunteers, are "mere" humans as well... Earnestly interested in aiding others... on an informal, ongoing basis... NOT perfect, certainly NOT doing this work as a "job"...> As an aside/update, as a result of Brenda's comments I decided to upgrade my lighting to a unit with 2x250W HQI and 4x65W pure actinic PCs. Although my BTA is not entirely back to normal, I believe (and hope) that it is on the mend, as it has stopped moving around the tank and has become more full since I replaced the lighting (I used the screen technique discussed on WWM to acclimate my system to the new lighting). I tried to remove it to my QT, but I wasn't successful and didn't want to damage it. On a good note, my clown has pretty much left it alone. And, on the upside, my mushrooms, tree corals and Xenia have NEVER looked better/healthier--they are much more full--and I am very glad I upgraded. Andy <I am very glad to see/read of your improvements and benefitted livestock. Bob Fenner>


Re: Sick BTA, E. Quadricolor, Possible Chemical Warfare, Now Starving Anemone -- 1/05/07 Dear Bob/Crew, <Hi Andy, Brenda here again.> This is a follow up to posts to/from Brenda and Bob re: my BTA. Last night when I got home from work, I noticed that my softies were retracted tightly. <What are your water parameters?> Things just didn't "look right". I started to worry that my BTA may be getting ready to explode, as it did not look good. <It does not look like it is ready to explode to me. However, it is starving. In your first picture (BTA1), above the mouth and to the left I see something that looks like a possible injury. Has the anemone previously been injured?> I also noticed that the BTA had finally moved to a rock that I could remove--now I could remove it to a separate tank without trying to pry its foot off any rock. So, I removed the rock and acclimated it into my QT (now lighted by a spare 2x54W T5 HO 10,000K strip light). <What size is this QT tank? Keep a close eye on your water parameters.> The BTA really does not look good at all. I've attached two pics--it is now about 1.5" in diameter and is starting to bleach. I tried to feed it some small pieces of Selcon-soaked silverside (as I have done for weeks), but the piece of fish eventually floated free. <This anemone has not digested any food in weeks. Something is taking its food, or it is regurgitating it later. What sized portions are you feeding? I would try a super tiny piece of food (sliver size), fed once daily until the anemone shows improvement. Don't over feed, this will cause regurgitation, and also cause more stress to the anemone. If the anemone still does not accept the food, try some Mysis shrimp. If that doesn't work, discontinue the Selcon. Although it is rare, there are some anemones that will not digest some foods. In addition to the above information, it is not uncommon for anemones placed in a new environment to not accept food. Just keep trying. Also, is there any possibility that this anemone has previously split in your tank? I am wondering if you had a second anemone that went unnoticed. The fact that your anemone quickly reduced in size and its previous stress, is reason enough for me to believe this anemone may have cloned itself. The fact that you came home to unusually stressed coral makes me wonder if an anemone may have died in your tank. Check your ammonia levels.> Do you think this BTA can be saved with patience/no presence of cnidarians or Clown, or is it likely too far gone? <It is not too far gone, but it is in poor health. I have seen much worse recover and thrive. It will however take a lot of dedication and patience.> Thanks. <You're welcome! Brenda>

Re: Update: Sick BTA, E. Quadricolor, Possible Chemical Warfare, Now Starving Anemone -- 1/05/07 Brenda, <Andy> Thanks for the response. <You're welcome!> My verb choice was not good--by "explode" I meant turn to goo. I am 99.9% sure that this BTA did not split-ever. I have watched it closely since I have owned it. My water parameters were and are: ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, silicates, and phosphate are all 0, pH is 8.3, salinity is 1.025, temp. is 80.7*F, calcium is 400, Alk is 3.5-4 mEq/L. In sum, nothing that would lead me to believe that anything died in the tank. <Good! I agree with ammonia of zero that nothing died.> Once I removed the BTA, my softies were open and happy. I also don't think it has suffered any trauma, although I can't be sure. The important thing is that it is now in QT/HT--30 gal long. <Is the anemone being kept with your new Chelmon rostratus, also currently in QT? They are not always the best tank mates. See here: http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=212&N=0 > I am changing water every day and checking parameters. They are pretty close to my display, although salinity is 1.026. <Good!> I will try feeding very small pieces of food/Mysis as you suggested and keep you posted. Thanks again. Andy <You're welcome! Brenda>

Re: Update: Sick BTA, E. Quadricolor, Possible Chemical Warfare, Now Starving Anemone -- 1/06/07 Yes, unfortunately it's the only extra tank I have. The butterfly, which is small, pays no attention to the BTA (so far). <You may want to consider creating a partition using eggcrate.> Andy <Brenda

Re: Update: Sick BTA, E. Quadricolor, Possible Chemical Warfare, Now Starving Anemone -- 1/07/07 Good morning Brenda. <Good morning Andy.> I will add a separator today. I cannot get this BTA to eat and am getting very frustrated. <Keep trying to feed daily. Remove any uneaten food so you don't foul the tank.> Today I tried Mysis. It will not even grab onto the food, much less attempt to eat. <Turn off the flow for a bit and place the food on the anemone, near its mouth.> Andy

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