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FAQs on Condylactis Anemone Systems

Related Articles: Condylactis Anemones, Anemones, Anemones of the Tropical West Atlantic, Colored/Dyed Anemones

Related FAQs: Condylactis 1, Condylactis 2, Anemone Systems, Condylactis Identification, Condylactis Compatibility, Condylactis Behavior, Condylactis Selection, Condylactis Feeding, Condylactis Disease, Condylactis Reproduction, Atlantic Anemones 1, Atlantic Anemones 2, Anemones, Anemones 2, LTAs, Clownfishes & Anemones, Anemone Lighting, Anemone Reproduction, Anemone Identification, Anemone Compatibility, Anemone Selection, Anemone Behavior, Anemone Health, Anemone Placement, Anemone Feeding

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Anemone Success
Doing what it takes to keep Anemones healthy long-term

by Robert (Bob) Fenner

Condylactis, sys., stkg.     12/26/12
Hi there,
I was up at my lfs talking to them about how I would like to have a anemone in my tank. I told them about what kind of lighting and fish I had. They said a Condylactis would be my best bet and they are only $8. I did all this with out even researching and was told by two different lfs it would be fine. I bought it! Well got home and started researching and now I am not sure about my lighting. Its 180 fowlr tank. The lighting is vho. Two aqua sun 160 watt sun bulbs, one 454 160 watt bulb, and one super actinic 160 watt bulb. Is this good enough lighting for this anemone?
<Mmm, possibly; though there are other potential downsides... see WWM re the genus>
 The anemone it self seems very happy. It ate krill yesterday, has already found a spot in my tank and has not moved.  Thanks for you time!
<C. gigantea may sting other, consume other life... Bob Fenner>

Haitian Anemone/Systems/Health 1/20/10
Hello Crew!
<Hi Matt>
It's me again.
<Me as in Matt?>
Well I have some questions about the anemone I have. I've had it about 3 weeks now and you can see its brown color is starting to come back. When I bought him he was pure white. The thing that is bothering me now is his purple tips are starting to vanish and the tips of some of his tentacles are looking a bit odd. They are not a perfect round shape, kind of zig zag in shape. I just recently bought a Clarkii Clownfish who absolutely loves him. My Water Params are pH 8.2 Ammonia 0 Nitrites 0 and Nitrates about 5 and SG is 1.24. I use T5 HO lighting 2x 14watt one actinic and one 10000k.
I have yet to start spot feeding because his color is coming back so nicely. Well any information would be great!
<The Haitian Reef Anemone, a Condylactis species, is found near Haiti, in lagoons and/or inner reefs. It has a red column with long, tapering, pink-tipped tentacles. The tentacles may occasionally develop a bubble-like appearance which may be what you are calling "odd". Generally it likes to bury the base in the sand or into the crevice of a rock for protection, and requires high intensity lighting to survive long term. Your two 14 watt HO's, depending on your tank size and depth, is borderline at best for keeping this species. I would at least replace the actinic with another 10K lamp, it will help increase your light intensity. A better idea would be to see if you can return/exchange it if lighting improvements cannot be made.
Do read here and articles, especially the FAQ's linked in the header.
Thanks for your time.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)> 

Question About Care Of Condy Anemone/Reef Lighting 7/27/09
Hi there,
<Hello Matthew>
I would really appreciate you bearing with me and possibly answering some of the questions I have about the Condy Anemone. I had a tank that I set up about three/four months ago with the intent on only keeping fish and maybe a few hardy mushroom corals. However, I decided to go and buy a Condy anemone because the owner of my LFS told me that it was quite hardy to an extent and that it would be a nice addition to my tank.
<Mmm, to what extent? Mixing an anemone with corals is not a good idea, especially in a tank size such as yours.>
The water parameters are as follows: S.G= 1.025, pH= 8.1, Nitrates/Nitrites/Ammonia= 0, Temperature= 80 F. I have a 65 watt Current USA Single Satellite fixture on my 39 gallon tank. In your opinion would
you say that my tank is suitable to keep this?
<No, your lighting will not support this animal for long. You did not mention the depth of your tank, so I cannot suggest proper lighting. Funny your LFS didn't ask you what type of lighting you have before the purchase.
Anemones are photosynthetic and most require a high light level for photosynthesis to take place. I would suggest you take it back before it dies. In the future, never rely on one source of information. Do some
research before buying, will save you some grief and cash in the long run.>
Also, is it generally normal for anemone to extend and then pull in their tentacles?
<Generally, yes. Read here and related articles/FAQ's on this subject.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>

Ga Ga For Grammas (Royal Gramma Biotope System)  7/7/09
Hello Crew,
<Hey there! Scott F. your Crew member today!>
I am in the process of setting up a 29g reef, which has been built, but not yet stocked pending the conclusion of my research.
<Good heavens- you're RESEARCHING before setting a system up? This is really great to see/hear. So many problems can be eliminated with a little time spent researching. Good for you!>
I want to showcase Condylactis anemones (only one type, hopefully the gigantea), and my wife is interested in a Royal Gramma.
<One of my all-time favorite fishes!>
That led me to focus on a
Caribbean biotope, having read Tullock's and Mr Fenner's books, as well as Reef Invertebrates by Mr Fenner and Mr Calfo.
<Excellent references all!>
I am leaning toward
the shallow side of a fore reef, with a 2x65w Coralife fixture, an Aqua C Remora skimmer, and dual returns routed from a SCWD that should result in a total flow rate of around 300-350gph after accounting for head loss and the head pressure of the SCWD. The tank has been drilled and has a 1" Durso installed.
<Know the man- love his standpipes!>
I have around 25lbs of well established Fiji rock (can't get Gulf rock locally), another 25lbs of well established base rock, and 40+ pounds of live sand. I anticipate about a 4" sand depth in the display, with a 20g long being used for the sump.
<Sounds good so far. If you're thinking about the whole biotope idea, do consider building up a rock overhang under which your Royal Gramma can hang out in a natural fashion This is a really interesting biotope. In fact, I'll be in the Caribbean next week, and hope to be visiting my pals the Grammas in their natural environment!.>
Other species I am considering include 3-5 peppermint shrimp, a few Astraea and turbo snails, and a pair of Atlantic cleaner shrimp (actually, Lysmata amboinensis, as I can't get the Atlantic version locally). I would want to place the anemone or anemones in first to let them settle a bit, as I anticipate them wandering a bit more at first. I only plan on keeping one Royal Gramma. I don't think a second fish is a good idea in a tank this size, unless you think there's a practical option.
<I would generally not attempt adding more than one in an aquarium of this size. Perhaps a few Neon Gobies might fit in nicely and add to the interest of this biotope, but that's about it. If this were a larger system, I'd definitely create an aggregation of Grammas, and perhaps a few other fishes>
I've looked around the site, but haven't found info on this specific setup...any advice?
<Well, Stan, I think that you are on the right track. As an obsessed by biotope geek myself, I really think that this is a great way to highlight and learn more about animals that you are interested in. Fishes and inverts in a system that attempts to replicate the natural environment will display more natural behaviors and colors, as well as possibly engage in spawning behavior. And, biotope systems are highly educational to both hobbyists and non-hobbyists alike. They are truly unique displays that can provide a new dimension of enjoyment to your hobby. Best of luck! Regards,
Scott F.>

Re: Condy anemone/royal gramma biotope
Stocking a Royal Gramma Biotope 7/8/09

<Hey Stan>
Since you're headed that way, can you suggest a few names of likely Royal Gramma habitats in the Caribbean? I know they are prolific, but I am hoping to find some biotope pictures online, and it seems the best way to research biotopes is by looking at tourist-oriented websites, especially for deep sea diving locations.
<Excellent thought. The tourist and dive sites are a great source of biotope information and usually have great photos as well! I would look for information from The Bahamas, Venezuela, the Lesser Antilles, and other outlying parts of the Caribbean. I hope to see some in Grand Cayman and Isla Roatan, but that might be wishful thinking. They seem to be very commonly encountered in Bimini in the Bahamas, so checking out dive sites for this area could be fruitful. Check the sites for dive operators in the other areas mentioned, too, and www.fishbase.org for specific type localities and other great information!>
Also, I hear the C. gigantea species can top out at 12 inches. I anticipate not having any corals or sessile inverts in the tank, but will this anemone's size be a problem?
<In the size of aquarium that you are contemplating, this species could be a problem. I'd be more inclined to consider smaller, hardier, more abundant "Rock Anemones", such as Phymanthus or the "Corkscrew Anemones", Bartholomea species. Although it would be cheating a bit, as these species are generally not found in the same environment as the Grammas, these would probably fare better in a system of this size. To be honest, I would pass on an anemone altogether in the biotope, as they are generally not found in super close proximity to the Grammas in nature. I would be much more inclined to utilize Gorgonians, or even (artificial!) sponges and encrusting soft corals (versions of Sinularia, perhaps- although not found in the region, could make a suitable facsimile of the local corals, if desired.). Passing on the anemone would create a more faithful/functional/sustainable reproduction of the biotope, IMHO. You should consider planting some calcareous macroalgae, such as Halimeda, in the rocks.>
As the focal point of the tank, I am okay with it filling the tank...
<Umm...consider the options above.>
Lastly (though I know better), any chance of an Arrow Crab working in this size aquarium with a Royal Gramma? I am under the belief that sooner or later every snail, shrimp, or fish would be lunch at some point in a tank this size (29g). I just think they are cool, so I like to ask around.
<I, too, have always loved the Arrow Crab, but I'm a bit leery of them at the larger sizes. Although better known for eating polychaetes like bristle worms, they do tend to develop more "cosmopolitan" tastes in the confines of an aquarium, perhaps even going after more desirable life forms, such as Feather Dusters, etc. They will definitely be a threat to smaller crustaceans, such as shrimp, and could at least potentially be problematic to smaller more sessile fishes, so keep this in consideration. Although not really piscivores per se, "accidents" do happen in the aquarium. I would certainly keep a small specimen if you are inclined to have one, and keep a close eye out for potential problems in a system of this size. Best to use some of the small to medium sized shrimps instead, although not to small, as you might end up feeding your Gramma an expensive little meal! So much to consider, I know, but we just need to be mindful of the potential issues in a modest-sized system.>
Thanks again for a great site!
<My pleasure, Stan. Don't want to "rain on your parade", but I did want to give you some food for thought in regards to potential stocking issues for this aquarium. Best of luck, and keep me posted on how this system evolves!
Regards, Scott F.>

Re: Condy anemone/royal gramma biotope
Stocking a Royal Gramma Biotope (cont'd.) 7/8/09

<Hey Stan!>
Something like this, perhaps, with my tank representing a slice of the bottom of this wall. I have some synthetic Red Sea live rock that looks very similar to the red encrusting sponges found in the Caribbean. I could use that along the corner to conceal the overflow and mimic the sloping wall. Pillars of true live rock go along the bottom, inter spaced with Halimeda. I can get gorgonians pretty readily here, and there are rock anemones brought in as hitchhikers pretty often as well. I may also attach some dried sea fans to augment the gorgonians.
<Very nice...This is a great biotope to replicate. I have often though that it would work well in one of those tall, narrow aquariums (You know- the kind that end up in the garage collecting dust for eternity, or become
Final livestock plan appears as such:
1 Royal Gramma
2 Cleaner Shrimp
3-5 Peppermint Shrimp
2-3 Turbo Snails
3-5 Astrea Snails
maybe a...
<Hmm...maybe a Neon Goby or some kind of Blenny...Maybe a Jawfish, if you have deep enough sand! Keep me posted on this setup! Regards, Scott F.>

Re: Condy anemone/royal Gramma biotope
Caribbean Biotope (cont'd.)   7/23/09

Hey Scott,
<Hey there!>
I found this on the web...great report that has actual counts of coral specimens, along with their locations and the fish/invertebrates found with them.
<Very cool to find this kind of information on the web. There is a wealth of useful biotope information out there for the hobbyist willing to take a serious look!>
Here's another report dealing with anemones in the Keys specifically...Also, a really good website, with movies and pics of Caribbean biotopes (help planning your dives?) can be found
<Neat..in fact, Michelle L. and I just returned from a Caribbean dive trip, and we noticed Condylactis anemones on reefs in Belize and Cozumel..I was surprised, quite frankly, to see them there.>
Interestingly, I noted that there are fairly low appearances of Cleaner/Banded Shrimp, suggesting that multiple specimens in a 29g tank is not representative of their natural habitat (unless they are pairing). This holds true for Arrow Crabs as well, although they are already known to fight each other in aquariums.
<Absolutely. Although once again, on the reefs I did see these creatures residing in surprisingly close proximity to each other. This would be completely crazy to attempt in an aquarium, IMO. One of the coolest things I saw was in Cozumel- a "family" of 3 Arrow Crabs- two adults and a little guy- all on a small patch of rock. It was really cool to see.>
Sure is a lot of stony coral...I will be using some "branch rock" around the slope and along the bottom to replicate the pieces that would normally fall off and deposit along fore reef slopes due to storm damage. The Acropora count was around 50-60% of the coral counted in some areas, with algal growth accounting for most of the rest...
<I was surprised to see so much macroalgae, such as Dictyota and some turf algaes, covering the reefs...far more predominantly than corallines.>
For my setup, I will be trying to replicate a small slope that might be found along a fore reef wall, a ledge, if you will.
<Nice idea.>
Also, here's a super website that has lots of pics, and some movies, of various locations in the Caribbean.
<Hmm...not seeing it. I'm very excited to see your concept coming together.
Best of luck- and keep me in the loop! Regards, Scott F.>

Condy Anemone 7/14/09
We have just started our first saltwater aquarium and purchased a Condylactis anemone.
< Anemones should never be placed in a newly established aquarium. 6 months to a year minimum. >
It is pink/white and has purple tips. I have read a lot about these anemones but still have a question or two about it. First here is some information on our tank. We decided to start small. So we have a 20G tank.
< Too small for this animal. >
It's inhabitants include:
1 1/2 inch substrate
6lbs dead rock
10 1/2 lbs live rock
5 hermit crabs (red legged)
3 snails
1 Skunk Cleaner Shrimp
1 Black Brittle Star
1 Royal Gramma
1 Lawnmower Blenny
< Can become aggressive in small environments. Especially as they age. >
2 Percula Clowns
1 Pencil Sea Urchin
< Could cause injuries to the anemone. >
1 Condylactis Gigantea
(We also have some Ricordea, a few tiny feather dusters and 5 teeny tiny sea stars that came on live rock) (Not sure if I spelled everything right! sorry)
< Tank is overcrowded. I would remove at least 2 of the fish. I would suggest keeping the Perculas.>
The only thing that I know about our lighting is that it is 15watt fluorescent. I do know that anemones need strong lighting.
< This is not nearly enough lighting. >
I target feed the anemone a small piece (1/4 inch or smaller) once a week and feed the tank a 1/2 cube of mysis shrimp morning and night. My water quality is excellent...1.024,
< I would slowly raise this to 1.026 >
8.2. 76 degrees, 0 for all levels it should be and so on.
After having the anemone a week now it is still "free floating" in one spot in the tank. It has not attached it's foot anywhere!
< This is not a good sign at all. >
Is it normal that it hasn't attached yet?
< Absolutely not. This is a sure sign something is not right. >
Should it attach to something or will it always float?
< A healthy anemone should attach fairly quickly. >
Is my lighting good for this anemone, or do I need more?
< Your lighting is no where near enough. You should look into a 4 bulb T5 setup. Look for one with individual reflectors. You should also increase the feedings to help supplement the poor lighting. >
Also my anemone keeps "deflating" and "inflating", I know this is normal because it has not been in the tank long but do you know how long before they start to stay "inflated"?
< The inflating in deflating could just be the animal expelling waste. >
I really love this animal, it is SO gorgeous and want to do anything I can to make it happier. We are in the process of getting a bigger tank.
Thanks for any help you can offer!!
< A bigger tank is a good step but lighting is an immediate need. If a new light fixture can not be purchased quickly , you may want to consider returning this animal until you are more prepared to care for its needs. GA Jenkins >
Re: Condy Anemone 7/15/09

Thank you so much for your support!
< Your welcome. >
I just go my 55 gallon tank today!
< Congrats! >
I am getting it ready to transfer my fish (I know that takes time). I will supplement feeding for the anemone now. I am getting the proper lighting tomorrow.
< Wonderful ! For a 55 I would suggest you look into some type of Metal Halide combo. I love T5's but for that depth I believe MH would be your best bet. Especially with the higher lighting needs of your Condy.>
Thank you again! I love your site and all it's wonderful information!
< You are very welcome. GA Jenkins >

Condy Anemone 7/2/09
Hello and thank you for such an interesting and informative site. My local shops are all too arrogant to chat it up, or only interested in selling, to be of any real honest help.
<Sad and all too common.>
I found this site by Googling, and it is the only one with specific and informative help.
<Thank you.>
To my problem.
I am including a pictures of my Condy Anemone. I bought a nano system from the shop that already had been cycled and had a Condy and another fish I have since removed. The Anem started out fine, but the tentacles are all withered and falling off. His body looks healthy, and he has only moved once. I keep the water clean and within the parameters you have advised here.
<Can you provide specific numbers?>
He eats a small piece of squid eagerly three times a week, stays swollen up, but these tentacles are all dying. Please advise.....
<A few things come to mind, particularly the system size. Most "nano" sized systems are really not appropriate for most if not any anemones. The size alone is an issue, but the stability (lack of) that comes along with a nano size is another. Also, how about lighting, filtration and water flow in this system? All play into the health of your Condy. Scott V.>

Re: Condy Anemone 7/3/09
Just as I said about my local store just wanting to sell me something. They highly recommended this setup.
<Not good.>
My parameters are
ALK. 180
PH 8.2
NO2 0
NO3 10
It is pretty consistently there.
<Is the temperature consistent?>
Filtration is two sponge cubes, then
charcoal bag in section two. I have about 10 lbs of live rock in there.
The lighting is the Nano DX hood. Two double fluorescent bulbs, one white one blue. I started the Anem directly below good light, about 4-5 inches deep, and he moved to a shadier area. The flow is a power head pointing away from him, but he gets decent tentacle movement, the ones that are left anyway.
<This system really is not suitable for this anemone. It sounds on the small side for both growth and stability. The lighting too does not sound like it is likely enough based on what you have stated.
See: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/condysysfaq.htm and the linked files above.
Scott V.>
Condy Questions plus tank too : )...  James...    2/19/08 I am reading a lot of things on the Internet today. You seem to have short quick answers. I have a few questions for you guys. I have a 37 Tall saltwater tank 30"x12"x22"??? It has a stock hood but with after market lights. I have had success for over a year with this tank and recently took on a Condylactis giganteus <Tank too small for this guy.><<No... RMF>> see photo at the request of my better half. I have read a fair amount of records of bleaching these creatures and was wondering if you could tell me if this one is. Also visual health indicators if any. IT eats food and then releases in a slow display 1-2 days later. I have not had any creatures die from living in my tank only from lack of knowledge early on.. IE acclimation mishap. I have had two YTB damsels <??, please, no abbreviations.> whom cycled with this tank, their neighbors are 2 Serpent Stars 5-6" each, 2 Turbo Snails, 1"er and a 2"er, 1 Scooter Blenny and 1 Porcelain Crab about 2". My stars have made more stars Whoopee! about 20 that I have seen they are all darker in color? protection I assume. Camo? <Age.> Oh and four Nassarius Snails 1cm each. also 4 Blue Leg Hermit Crabs. Oh I have a protein skimmer and a bio wheel also and 2" bed of sand and crushed coral a rocks from LFS Tank: 37 gallons 1.023 salinity pH is light purple I can never distinguish the number. Nitrates seem ok <How do you know? Seem OK????> I have no way to measure every thing with my kit. <Should buy the specific kit you are missing.> What do you feel I should work on... Responsibly.. I have a minimal budget Also is there any merit too strong household lighting of any kind for my style tank? Or is aquarium lighting the only way to go. <Brian, you do not mention what kind of lighting you have. Very important here on keeping anemones. Kelvin temperature and wattage is what I'd like to know. Do read here and related articles/FAQ's above. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/condyanemones.htm Also, in future queries, please cap all proper nouns such as names of fish and invertebrates. My time and patience run low when I have to correct/edit queries before posting. James (Salty Dog)>
Brian Stark

Needs light, reading. RMF.

Re: Condy Systems/Health 2/21/08 Dear, James (Salty Dog)> <Brian> Thanks for the quick reply! <You're welcome.> I'm sorry about the grammar errors. I had gotten so excited after finding your resource for info I jumbled everything together. <Tis OK, I just get tired of spending time correcting before posting, my volunteered time is very limited as I do have a full time job.> I'll try this again From what you replied, I need specific lighting for my Anemone. I should not classify it until I know for sure what species it is. See Picture. <Is definitely a Condylactis> I have fluorescent bulbs (2 x 20 watt) 1 is a 18,000 K and the other is an Actinic spectrum bulb. Both of these are T-8 and made by HAGEN. <The Kelvin temperature would work but the intensity (wattage) is much too low for keeping these anemones. A single 150 watt HQI would do the trick on your tank.> I have no reflectors for these bulbs. I am now wondering what could I fit to my 30" x 12" tank? <A Google search for aquarium lighting will bring gobs of links. Premium Aquatics for one, has a good selection of lighting systems including retros.> I am very handy and could build anything to fit. <Mmm, consider a retro.> I do get very little direct sunlight from a two pane window. I run my light from 8AM until 11PM manually, but I own a timer. I read that wattage is less important than output. <Output is the wattage or LUX. The Kelvin rating is the color temperature.> I am interested in making this tank work for just about anything but not anything new for awhile. Also I apologize for my lack of water information before. 02/20/2008 These are done with a common test kit. See Pics if it helps. <No help to me, looks like Kool-Aid suckers. Would need a reference chart.> I seem to have a spike in my nitrates. and in the ammonia a little these are usually 0 so I don't know what is causing this. <Excessive fish load can be one, as for the nitrates, excess nutrients.> I test about every week but I don't chart readings, maybe I should? <A good idea.> Anyways thanks in advance. <You're welcome.> pH 8.3ppm NH3/NH+4 0.25ppm NO3 20ppm <I'd try to keep this under 10ppm> NO-2 0.00ppm Salinity 1.023 @ 79 degrees I have no algae that I can see. But there was a Kenya tree that had gotten cold awhile back it is fine now, but part of it fell off. Could this be the culprit? <Would help, yes.> Creatures 4 Nassarius Snails 2 Mexican Turbo Snails 4 Blue Leg Hermit Crabs 2 Yellow Tail Blue Damsels 2 Serpent Starfish 6" each 20 Serpent Stars 1" less than 1 year old. 1 Anemone ( Please Indent For me ) 1 Scooter Blenny 1 Porcelain Crab 3 Small Kenya tree 37 Gallon Tall 30"x12"x22" 250 GPH Circulation pump Red Sea Protein Skimmer Tank Heater 2" sand and crushed coral base Several Rocks <Your fish load is not high, a plus.> I hope this helps you help me. Again thank you so much <You're welcome again. Do search our site on nutrient/nitrate control and reef lighting. James (Salty Dog)>

Condy Disappearance/Health/Systems 2/11/08 Hello Crew, <Hello Spencer> I recently added a Purple Condy to my tank. It's been about a month now and just a few days ago I woke up to find that my clownfish was completely gone. Not a sign of him in the tank. He was showing no sign of being sick, and was going about the day with normal behavior. The only conclusion I could come up with was maybe he was stung and then eaten by the Condy. Now three days after the disappearance of the clownfish, the Condy seems to have disappeared as well. The is a little brown silky looking substance in my filter. <May be the remains of the Condy.> The tank is 10g with a hood, <Not good, tank too small for keeping such animals and this anemone also requires strong light of the proper Kelvin temperature to survive.> and was shared with some hermit crabs, a small Blood Shrimp, two Mithrax Crabs, and the clown which is now gone as well. <Are you saying all the other inverts are gone as well?> So I guess my question is, what might have happened to either of them? I did just recently within the last few days do a 20 percent water change. The water I put in was a little cooler then the water that was in there but the thermometer read 75 after, so a very negligible change in temperature. This morning I did another 15 percent water change just in case the Condy did actually die, so I could get some of the ammonia out of the tank before I could test the water. The Condy's normal behavior was to deflate once a day and then inflate back up, last night it was deflated and then gone today. Thank you so much, I hope that you guys can help with my enigmatic aquarium. <I'm thinking it got sucked into the filter and died. On the other hand, it may have attached itself to the underside of a rock out of view. Would not put anemones in such a small system in the future, will not live, difficult to keep alive long term to begin with. James (Salty Dog)> Spencer Hall

Anemone Help/Condylactis 10/22/07 I have been searching the archives, and alas don't have all night to keep looking (wish I did, I love reading here). I wrote to you last week about an SPS frag which succumbed to RTN. I found the culprit, I'm sure, which was a AA battery in the sump (ah love 2 year olds, especially one who has a newfound fascination with putting things where they don't belong, you know, toys in the toilet, batteries in the tank, pee in the floor vents, that sort of thing...). <Heehee> I did a 12 gallon water change the next morning (all the water I had) and kept an eye on the rest of the inhabitants. The skimmer is currently offline because we are treating the tank with Kick Ich. <Worthless in my opinion, and not safe with inverts. I know people who have used this product and lost corals during the treatment period.> We made the mistake of not quarantining a new purchase. <Yes.> It had a single white spot on it's fin when we put it in our tank, and 2 weeks later the whole tank was infected and the new acquisition was dead (a regal tang). The current problem is with our Condy. I have some pictures of it when we got it, it was quite small (1.5 inches in diameter or so), very attached to it's rock, which we ended up buying with it since it wouldn't let go, pinkish tan in color. It grew a LOT since then, and is about 5 inches in diameter now. We have been watching it closely for a few days, as it is growing paler and paler. I took a new picture tonight. It is white now, almost transparent, but accepted some squid, though a bit sluggishly. It catches food when the fish are fed generally as well, so I don't target feed it often, usually when I do it tries to take my fingers with, so this was a bit of a concern. It is upright, still attached to its rock. Is there any remedy? Is it dying? We have had it about 9 months. Tank parameters are as follows: 50 gallon tank with 29 gallon sump/refugium, one 2 bulb high output T5 fixture with an actinic blue and 10000k. We have a low output T5 with the same, but we are waiting for a replacement light as it stopped working. <The use of Kick Ich didn't help for sure, and the lighting you have isn't enough for a Condy. The do require intense lighting to survive. Is best not to have anemones in tanks with corals, especially a Condy which can/does move quite frequently stinging everything it passes by, and they do have a potent sting.> dkH 8.4, Phosphate 0.1, Calcium 360, PH 8.4, Nitrate 20, Nitrite 0, Ammonia 0. We have about 40-50 lbs of live rock, 2.5 inches of substrate (Florida crushed coral and live sand). Other inhabitants are a Yellow tang, <Too small a tank for the tang.> 2 Yellow Tail Blue Damsels, 2 Percula Clowns, a cleaner shrimp (red and white, candy cane striped), corals are a Gorgonian, several Xenia colonies, a Montipora, <Depending on what type Montipora you have, your lighting may be too low for this.> Finger Coral, Acropora, Candy Cane Coral, a Traechyphyllia <Trachyphyllia> and a Scolymia. <Also require more lighting that you have.> We have a large Featherduster worm and a rock with some blue mushrooms and some Zoa polyps, a few largish polyps with tentacles around the edges, and lots of 'critters' in the substrate. There is a really cool pink sponge growing on one of the rocks, good coralline growth, good polyp extension on the corals. Ah, the only thing I think I left out is that we are also running a UV sterilizer (not full time, just when we have reason to worry, like now with the ICH). What is our most likely problem, and can it be fixed? Our new light was supposed to be here a week ago, sigh. I am sure that probably plays into the equation. I have 20 gallons of RO water coming to room temp now so I can do a change in the morning. Anything else I need to do? Attached are 3 pics of the anemone, the first one is now, the other two were taken in happier days. <I'd quarantine any fish that appear to be infected with ich and treat with a copper based medication. Filter your water through activated carbon, Chemi Pure, or a Poly Filter to remove the Kick Ich. Your light intensity is going to have to be doubled to maintain some of the corals you have. Read here please. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_3/cav3i4/quarantine/Quarantine.htm http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ichartmar.htm http://www.wetwebmedia.com/condyanemones.htm Hope this helps you. James (Salty Dog)>

Re: Anemone Help/Condylactis 10/23/07 Thank you for your quick reply. <You're welcome.> I do apologize for asking the obvious. How do I follow up in reply? I'll give it a shot.. <??> Regarding lighting, we are aware that we are a little low for the corals, but thought we were ok for the anemone, <Oh no.> until we had a fixture go down. The more demanding corals are in the top 6 inches of the tank. However, everyone has been doing very well until the Ich and the battery (insult to injury perhaps). The newest thing in our system (invert wise) is several months old now, wouldn't we see SOME sign of a problem prior to now? <Not necessarily. Light loving inverts do not die the next day simply because of insufficient light, but they do require photosynthesis to take place so that in turn, food is provided to them as they do generate most of the nutrition they require. When this process slowly degenerates, the animals will eventually die. Now, don't think that if you feed the anemone daily, it won't have to make any food, not the way it works, but too detailed to explain here.> All of the corals are growing, eating, behaving like corals should, aside from the SPS that died. Would increasing the hours of light help? Currently, the lights are on about 14-15 hours a day. <No, you a fine here. I'd probably opt for 12 hours per day with sufficient lighting.> We have a regular fluorescent light with the actinic and 10000k bulbs in it (what we started with) out in the shed, would adding that help? <Yes in regard to being better than what you have, keeping in mind that about 175-200 watts is what you should be running in your 50 gallon tank. Time to read here and linked files above. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marlgtganthony.htm> Regarding the Ich: I did another 12 gallon or so water change today, I saved some water aside so I can set up the quarantine/hospital tank. Got the skimmer running again (it has a carbon chamber as well). It is a Red Sea brand Prizm Pro skimmer, is this a decent one, I sure hope it is, it's about the 4th try. <Yes, a good skimmer for your size tank. I've used one before and thought it worked quite well, not the best, but decent.> I will 'attempt' to net all of the fish and place them in there for a few weeks. <I would net only the fish that are obviously infected. Not good to treat fish unnecessarily.> My question here is that all I have room for is a 10 gallon tank, is that sufficient space for the fish we have (Yellow Tang, 2 damsels, 2 Percula Clowns)? The tang is not real big (still the biggest in our tank however), maybe 4 inches from snout to tail. <No, more problems will arise, get an additional 10 gallon tank, not expensive. And, as the tang grows, the 50 gallon tank will be too small.> I did read through the articles you suggested as well. Is copper safe for all of the fish we have? <Yes, dosed and monitored properly. Do read the copper article and linked files again along with the quarantine link and related files above.> Do I need to offer supplemental feeds to the rest of the tank (mainly the cleaner shrimp), since the fish will not be fed in the main display for a while (as they will be quarantined/medicated)? <Yes, a light feeding every other day.> Lastly, re: the tang/tank size, as I said, not a real big fish, yet, and we do plan to upgrade to a larger tank as soon as funds allow. If it outgrows the tank before we can, then I suppose back to a LFS it goes, perhaps a trade on some other specimens to fuel our addiction. Ah, and the Condy has moved exactly once, after we had to dismantle 3/4 of the tank to catch the infected Regal Tang. I guess it really likes it's corner. BTW, own your book (The Conscientuous <Conscientious> Marine Aquarist sorry if I spelled it wrong) and love it :) <And you, my friend, need to keep reading/learning. James (Salty Dog)>

Lighting For A Condy In A Nano Reef 9/17/07 Hi, <Hello Jane> i <Ah, another querier with a broken shift key.> have a nano reef, it is five gallons. I placed a Condy in it about a few days ago. It has burrowed it's foot in the sand. I think it's doing well as of now because I'm feeding it and putting in an iodine supplement. It looks healthy, as I can see. Right now there's about 25 watts of lighting, and the water is perfect. Is this an okay set up, and if not, what do you suggest. I'm open to more lighting, is that is necessary. Thanks, and let me know. <Jane, the five gallon nano is much too small for keeping a Condy. Anemones are difficult to keep in a large system, let alone in a five gallon. The lighting itself should be sufficient if the lamp is at least 6000K, but my advice is to return the Condy, you will be asking for trouble down the road. Any fish/coral in the nano will be subject to stings from the anemone in such small quarters. And when the anemone dies, if unnoticed, your nano will become toxic to all other life present. James (Salty Dog)> -Jane <In future queries, please cap beginnings of sentences, proper nouns, etc. Makes our job easier if we do not have to edit before posting. Thank you.>

Making Friends With His Anemone! Anemones lighting and positioning    8/13/07 My anemone, Medusa, was seemingly doing well and perhaps he still is but he has recently moved to the top of the tank which is obviously closer to the lighting but also closer to the water flow from the Penguin filter. <When anemones move, they are generally telling us that something is not right for them in their present position. Typically, this is related to water flow and/or lighting.> When he was in the lower position, he looked happy and he was eating. Should I be concerned that he has moved so close to the top? What do you think this movement means? Is he not getting enough food? Light? <As you suspect, this is usually a response to some parameter being not to the anemone's liking. Observe the anemone's behavior in it's new position. In particular, pay close attention to the animal's orientation to the lighting and flow. Is it closing up? Is the animal trying to orient itself into the flow, or away from it? Is the animal feeding, has color changed, etc?> 2nd subject: Algae. I recently bought the Nova Extreme fixture and ever since I have had an awful time with red algae on my rocks. I've tried to limit the lighting time but that still hasn't solved the problem. Do I need to increase the water changes? <Typically, algae blooms are a function of nutrients in conjunction with lighting. Increased lighting intensity and/or longer photoperiods alone do not cause such blooms. Be sure take into consideration the entire picture. Could your source water be high in a nutrient that algae favors? If so, the increased lighting could result in such a bloom. If you're using RO/DI water, do check the membranes/prefilters to assure that they are not saturated. If they are, of course, replacement would make a big difference. Water changes with properly conditioned water are never a bad idea, of course, so do keep them up. Frequent, consistent small (like 10% of system capacity) water changes are never a bad idea.> Happily, my water parameters are all good. Thanks in advance. My tank: Blue Regal Tang Yellow Tang Coral Beauty Dwarf Angel Tricolor Fairy Wrasse Royal Gramma Mandarin Dragonet Scissortail Dartfish Redfire Shrimp Green Fluorescent Mushrooms Sand Sifting Sea Star Snails: Bumble Bee, Super Tongan Nassarius, Mexican Turbo, Zebra Turbo Lots of rock, decorative and live Equipment 55 gallon, 48x12x18 Penguin BioWheel 350 SeaClone 100 Skimmer Nova Extreme T-5 Fixtures w/Lunar Lights (48" - 216 watts) 2 SlimPaq 460nm Actinic and 2-10000°K T-5 HO lamps 18 watt turbo twist UV sterilizer <If it were me- I'd keep up the water changes, observe the anemone continuously, and be prepared to take action, if necessary for the anemone. Do review those water parameters regularly (particularly phosphate, silicate, and nitrate)...these parameters can give you some clues about what may be causing the algae bloom. Continued success to you! Regards, Scott F.>

Pink tip anemone... sys., sel.  7/21/07 First off your site and FAQ's are awesome. I have a 14 gallon Nano cube ( recent addition) I also have a 170 gallon FOWLR tank. My wife fell in love with a pink tip anemone at the LFS and brought it home for the Nano tank. <... Not a smart process for livestocking...> Well as most people know this guy likes to move. He will hang out in the same general area, but move from side to side. I have a Pipe Organ coral and a couple mushroom colonies in there also. There hasn't been a problem with stinging yet, but is this a possibility? <In a word, yes> If so I want to move the pink tip anemone to the FOWLR tank, but worry my rather large Puffer will eat it. <It could> The FOWLR also has some rather large red hermit crabs that I have been told might eat it as well. <Ditto> The pink tip anemone has been rather peaceful ( though I suspect it ate my cardinal fish) Any suggestions on what is the best solution. I personally think the Nano is too small for the pink tip anemone, but my wife swears the LFS said it would be fine <Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/index.htm Scroll down to the tray on Anemones, re Condylactis... Bob Fenner>

Haitian Anemone, Condylactis lighting questions -- 3/9/07 Hi Bob, <Hi Aaron, Brenda here> Thanks for all of your help.  We all really appreciate it. <You're welcome> I have a quick question about my Haitian Anemone.  I bought it from my LFS, and put it in my 125 reef ready, all water Parameters fine.  Last night I manually turned my lights off and forgot to turn the switch back on so they would automatically come on.  So when I got home today the lights were still off and the Anemone looked like it ate itself.  It was all sucked into itself.  I'm sure you know what I mean.  It is slowly coming out.  I'm sure it's cause of the light situation, plus my light is not enough in the first place, about 200 watts.   <Your right, it is not enough lighting to keep an anemone.> Is it going to be ok? <No> Is this a common thing to happen if light is absent for a long period. <I don't consider one day a long period of time.> I've been feeding it pieces of table shrimp, and it loves it.  It is the only invert right now.  I'm just using it to practice.   <I don't believe in using anemones to practice.  A better solution is to research their requirements before you purchase.  I suggest returning the anemone to the LFS until you can provide an adequate environment.>   Thank You Aaron <You're welcome!  Brenda>

Can I add an anemone?  - 2/26/07 Good Morning Gang! <Good Evening Jeff, Brenda here tonight!> My FOWLR DT has been up and running for three years without any major issues.   <Great!> I have an opportunity to add a small Condi and want to know what your opinions are.   <It won't stay small for long.> I have a 55 with a 3.5 to 4.5" DSB and about 65 lbs of LR.  Water parameters are great...0 ammonia...0 nitrites....5ppm or less nitrates....8.2 to 8.4 ph....1.025 SG....refugium in process to assist with BGA.  I have a 260 PC light and a lot of water circulation....Rio 3100 return pump and two power heads in the tank.   <You will need to cover the power heads with the addition of any anemone.  Salinity needs to be 1.026, nitrates zero.> I have three damsels, Royal Gramma,  Hippo Tang, snails, hermits, serpent star and a brittle star.  I have two false Percs in QT as of last night.  How would the addition of the anemone affect this tank/livestock?    I know the lighting and water flow are covered...I just don't want to jeopardize my fish. <Seven fish and an anemone would be pushing it.  I recommend waiting until the new clownfish have been in their new home for a while to see if your tank can handle it.  Anemones need pristine water conditions.  A Condylactis will not host a clownfish.  If this was your plan, Entacmaea quadricolor (BTA) would be a better choice.  Even then, there is still no guarantee they will host.  Your tank is a bit small for a tang.  I don't see a protein skimmer listed.  I suggest getting one if you don't already have one.  More information can be found here:  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/condyanemones.htm > Thanks!! Jeff <You're welcome!  Brenda>

Condy Anenome injury   9/26/06 Hello! I've have had a very beautiful Condy for 4+ months now. He recently got stuck on the intake of my powerhead. <Need to be covered/screened...> After turning off the powerhead and waiting, he moved to another part of the aquarium. He is now a lot smaller than he originally was, and I am worried that he may not be able to feed himself properly.  He doesn't have as many or as long of tentacles as he used too.  His mouth is now always visible.  The injury happened about 1.5 weeks ago. I have since covered the intake of the powerhead with a foam sponge. <Good idea> Should I be doing something special to feed this guy? <Perhaps. Worth trying> He's looking pretty good considering what he has gone through, but I'm worried that he might be starving. Thanks in advance! RK <Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/condyanemones.htm and the linked files above. BobF>

Re: Condy Anenome injury   9/27/06 Bob: Thanks so much for your input. My concern with this Anenome is how to feed him. Since so many of his tentacles are missing, he doesn't seem to be able to move any food that he catches to his mouth.  Should I try to insert food directly into his mouth?? RK <Can, I would. BobF>

Anemone Health/Who turned the lights off?    3/17/06 I have a 45 gallon mature tank, 110 watt light, one side blue actinic, one side kelvin white light.  We have a bio-wheel filter and a red sea protein skimmer.  I recently added a pink Haitian anemone.  It looks very bad.  We have had it nearly a week and have yet to see it eat.  It shrivels up at night and looks very shriveled and brown the next morning.  It has been filling out after a little while under the light, but today it must have been two hours or more before filling out and it still did not look great.  It has suctioned to the side of the glass, about middle ways down.  Water tests okay, except nitrates are at 40.  First question, what do we do to help the anemone?  <Your tank and lighting are both undersized for keeping such.  Difficult to keep for any length of time under ideal conditions.  Do google our site, keyword, anemones.> Second question- We also are having a problem with brown algae growth.  What causes it and what can we do? <Do google our site.  Much information present on algae control.> Will it hurt the fish? <No.>  Finally- Is there a way that we can promote green algae growth?  <Pretty tough to want to control one type of algae and promote growth of another. We try to avoid algae, why would you want to encourage it? I'm sure there is enough algae present already to keep the urchin going, crabs do not require it to survive.>  We have crabs and urchins that probably would appreciate it.  We have been using the chatroom, but we would like your direction.  Help!!! Thanks so much- <You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>

Condylactis Lighting/Feeding - 02/22/06 I've read many of your lighting/feeding articles and am having a little trouble determining if my lighting/feeding is adequate for my giant Condy. <<Mmm, ok...let's see if I can help.>> I have a 46 gal tank that's about 16 to 17" in depth.  The Condy is situated in a crevice of rock at the bottom of the tank.  I have a light from a previous tank that overhangs this tank a bit (it's a 4' light on a 3'tank).  Since I already invested in the light for a tank that cracked I really wanted to see if I could continue to use it. <<I see>> Here are the specifications of the light: Orbit 4 X 65 watt PC fixture. It contains SunPaq Dual Daylight (10,000K & 6,700K), Dual Actinic (460nm & 420nm) and a Lunar Light 2-65w Dual Daylight & 2-65w Dual Actinic lamps <<Ok, got it...I think.  This is probably "enough" light on this tank for the Condy, though it would appreciate/benefit from replacing one of the actinic bulbs with another daylight bulb.>> I run the Daylight lights from 8:00am to 5:00pm and the Actinic lights from 7:00am to 6:00pm.  I also have some Xenia in the tank that is growing nicely and spreading.  Other members include a large clown who came along with the Condy, a goby, a cleaner shrimp, a hermit crab, and a reef lobster. <<I'd keep an eye on the lobster...will likely dine on its tankmates sooner or later.>> All get along nicely. <<For now>> I feed small amounts twice a day.  The clown rounds up as much shrimp and formula 1 as it can and eagerly stuffs the food into the Condy.  Should I be feeding the Condy in addition to this?  If so, what? <<If the pieces are small enough...and you can truly ascertain the anemone is ingesting the food (and keeping it in!), then fine, let the clown feed the anemone.  But much of the time, what the fish gives the anemone is not really accepted even though it seems the anemone eats.  These animals really prefer food items much smaller than most people realize.  Do try target feeding "diced/minced" meaty foods (not brine shrimp!) and see how the anemone responds. The Condy and clown are new to the tank and look great! Thanks for your help - you folks are great! Frank <<Welcome Frank.  Regards, EricR>>

Condylactis anemone in new hands 9/9/04 I got a Condy anemone that came with some LR and I have no idea really what they eat, how to feed them or how to know when to feed them I have been doing tons of research but cant find what I need <look harder my friend... the information is sitting there in the archives and beyond. Use the Google search tool on the home page (wetwebmedia.com) with key word/phrase searches for things like "anemones feeding", "Condylactis", etc> I wasn't planning on an anemone for a few months at least also its kinda turning a little brown and I'm wondering if its my lights I only have 2 18 watt lights which I know is way to low <this is very low light indeed... concerning. And the anemone is turning brown from the waning of UV reflective pigments and or the increase in zooxanthellae trying to catch the weakly available light> is there even a chance of it making it with those lights <not likely my friend> cause I'm only 15 and cant really get the money all that quickly to buy new lights but any info will do it seems to be doing somewhat good but I really don't know any help is good <understood... do try to keep this anemone in the top 10" of water for maximum light exposure... and feed it finely minced meaty foods (krill, mysids, plankton, etc) a few times weekly> Thanks Andrew <best regards, Anthony>

Condylactis anemone <Hi Jerry!> Thanks, he just moved under the rock. Today he was at the highest point of the rock, I think he likes it in my tank I'm gonna feed him today. I feed him every other day frozen silversides (man those stink). I wish they came live. Is silver sides natural Condy prey? Thanks JM <In the wild they would likely take whatever small prey they could sting and catch. Don't forget to feed a variety of raw marine meats. Good to include shrimp, clam, mussel, etc. Small bits, no bigger than 1/4". Anemone does not live by silversides alone!. Craig> 

Condylactis anemone <Hi Jerry> Ok, 2 hours after I wrote this email he moved for the first time out of his spot. He moved under a rock. Weird, he can't get any light under there. I think I may have too much light. The tank is longer than it is deep, it's 13 inches deep. I don't know, what do you think? <Not to worry, these anemones are known for moving around aquariums quite a bit. That's part of the deal. You can read about your anemone at WetWebMedia.com. Type "Condylactis Anemone" in the google search engine. They do stuff like this, let him work it out. Craig> 

Re: HELP! new anemone owner! thanks! <<You are welcome.>> I have good lighting and circulation, in fact I had to move it so it wouldn't be blown around by the whisper filter too much. its kind of small maybe 3 inches across or less. would it be okay to feed it a piece of a shrimp like once a week to supplement the pellets? <<You could - I don't know enough about these pellets, and more often than not I prefer to use food I can identify - fish, squid, clam, etc.>> and one more thing, would it be okay to have a FEW soft corals in my tank? <<Again, it depends on your lighting. You didn't really reveal anything about it, just that it is 'good' - what type of bulbs, what output wattage? These are important to giving you a good answer.>> not right away but slowly add them? <<No matter what you add, you should add slowly.>> maybe a max number of 5 different easy species? <<depends on the light.>> and some mushrooms and polyps of course? <<don't see why not.>> or would the anemone sting them? <<only if placed right next to each other.>> I have plenty of space to go around so it seems like it should be fine. what about "chemical ware fare"? <<depends on the corals you select.>> sorry for all the questions but this is my first marine tank. <<Many of these questions have been asked and answered and are posted within WetWebMedia. You should avail yourself to this resource.>> Thanks for all the help. Clint <<Cheers, J -- >>
Re: HELP! new anemone owner!
<<Hello again, Clint...>> my lighting is 2 Coralife 20K high intensity purified super daylight lamps (that sounds kind of like of just boosting the selling power of these bulbs by using the words "super and purified" but that all came from the box. <<Sounds like standard manufacturer babble.>> it also says that fish coral and macroalgae thrive in its glow. bright high intensity output and the technical info says 360 degree output (please explain this I have no idea what that means) 15 watt fluorescent. <<Sounds like more box babble to me.>> 15 watts doesn't seem like very much to me but the box said coral likes it and the pet store owner assured me it was fine. <<Yeah, 15 watts is a little low, and even with the two together 30w is really not enough for your anemone or soft corals that you wish to place.>> please help! the corals I was thinking about were maybe a leather coral, bubble coral, and a xenia. Thanks a lot for all the help your advice is very useful o me. <<You have other options when it comes to lighting, and without something more intense, or many more of the 15w bulbs, you'll be quite challenged to get those corals to thrive. Check out these URLs: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/lighting/index.htm http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/lighting/fixtures.htm >> Clint <<Cheers, J -- >>

Condy anemone <Anthony Calfo, in your service> What are the lighting requirements for a Condy anemone? <depends on where it was collected, but can be categorized as moderate to high light> I bought one yesterday and currently have a 50 watt bulb on my 125....  <indeed... it would shrivel and die within months> BUT, I have 4 Coralife ballasts to put on my tank if that will help it.  <if they are standard fluorescent bulbs (40watt?) it will still be too weak for the depth of a 125 gallon tank. Such lights do not penetrate deep enough. The necessary lights to keep this anemone will cost 100X the price of the anemone...hehe. Do need to research before you buy animals, my friend> He found a spot near a rock not long after I introduced him into the tank. Would the Custom Sea Life PC's work, too?  <now we are talking, goombah!> I also bought some live phytoplankton for him to eat as well........  <fine zooplankton as much or more please> Any info would be great, as I am having a hard time finding info on this anemone. <not the hardiest in captivity but popular because they are inexpensive. Best regards, Anthony> Thanks, Kim
Re: Condy anemone
Thank you for the info , goombah! :) <hehe...> As for lighting goes, would VHO be even better?  <not necessarily better than PC, But very good. I like them a lot> or what about a MH Pendant (the round ones)? <excellent but more complicated and intense than you may need if you do not end up with a full blow reef. My vote is for PC or VHO and keep the anemone as high as it will allow you.> the goombah! <Ha! The silverbacks...aging Italian gentlemen...ewwwwh!>

Re: Anemones, local and not Hi, Bob. Thank You for Your quick reply. One more question. Is the anemone 'Entacmaea quadricolor' a good anemone for my tank which has only 2 x 20 W fluorescent bulbs. One is a 50/50 type. Or are there other, better anemones that don't require too much light?  <You could use such low intensity lighting with a Bubble Tip Anemone... but I wouldn't... won't be as happy, healthy as if you had two, three or more intensity lighting... I encourage you instead to look into the "local" anemones: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/twaanemones.htm Perhaps just the easy to keep "Condys". Bob Fenner> Thanks, Bernd
Re: Anemones, local and not
Hi Bob and thanks again. I checked your website about Condylactis anemones. Can 'passiflora' and gigantea adjust to low light? I might be able to collect those myself. Thanks, Bernd <Yes indeed my friend. Bob Fenner>

Condylactis Bob,  I'm happy to have found you again through WetWebMedia, you have really helped me with your information. In the past, I have sought your advise through FFExpress but as of late it seems they are utilizing multiple sources to address inquiries.  <I understand> I prefer to use one source and stick to their advice, namely you.  <Again, I understand, well, I think so!> My questions are regarding Condylactis; I purchased two of them a couple of days ago. Upon acclimating them to my 75 gallon tank they immediately attached to my live rock and even repositioned themselves over the next couple of hours. They looked good, the tentacles were turgid and from their movement I can see they had enough water circulating around them. Then yesterday one of them moved to a location, which can best be described as "cave like" still attached to the live rock and it's tentacles were not as turgid but were still searching about it's surroundings. The other remained in the same location and was fully open. I was curious, so I feed both of them freeze dried plankton, which they both eagerly ate. Should I be concerned about the Condy in the cave?  <Nah. Natural, expected behavior... not much to do anywise...> I have 220 watts of pc lighting (110 actinic, 110 full spectrum), which is short of the recommend wattage by about 1 watt per gallon. All water parameters are excellent, except for phosphates which are high and I have discussed with you in the past. Additional questions: Will the members of my clean up crew, blue crabs, snails, etc harm the Condys?  <Likely not> Do Condylactis come in different colors as my LFS explained?  <Yep, and a few species> Of the two I purchased one has a white base with white medium to long tentacles and purple tips. The other has an orange to peach colored base with brownish tentacles. Thanks in advance for your help.  Nick  >> <Be chatting my friend, Bob Fenner>

Question on anemone <<Hi Jerry>> Will Condylactis get along with other Condys? also if you have to 50 watts on a 30 gallon would that equal 100 watts which is 3.3 watts per gallon is that acceptable for this species? also do they have algae in there tissue? like a plant thanks JM <<I wouldn't get another one if that's where you're going! You don't have the first one saved yet! One thing here Jerry. I want you to think about this. I know that stores sell these for cheap, but they are not really the best for beginners, AAMOF, they don't tend to live very long in captivity. Now for the kicker. They live **FOREVER** in the wild. They are essentially immortal in the wild and usually live less than a year in captivity. You have to do your best to make right by something that would live forever if it wasn't in the store and then your tank. Now to the light. This is important as I've been trying to get you to understand. It's like this. You know how bright the sun is? Well even if you were able to gather all of the 50 watt bulbs in the world together over your tank, it would never come close to the sun. It's the same for the 50 watt lights you want. It will still only be 50 watts INTENSITY no matter how many you use. You need BIGGER, MORE INTENSE lighting than regular aquarium lighting, like Metal Halide, Very High Output Florescent, or Power Compact fixtures. Please go to this link and read about lighting: There are some good posts about not getting two anemones as well. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemonelightngfaqs.htm Craig>>
Re: question on Condy anemone
<<Hi Jerry>> Hi thank you I will put another 20 watt on the tank and he should do well I think will they die if he gets 2 watts per gallon? I've had him for 4 days and he looks good and he eats flakes I give him and he isn't sick will he sting if I go to move him higher up on the rock? Thanks JM <<Okay, Jerry, you didn't read the link below, did you? Jerry, we want to help you keep your anemone alive. Will you please read the link so you can get the help you need? As I wrote you yesterday, this anemone needs *high intensity lighting* not more wattage of *LOW intensity* lighting. That means Metal Halide, VHO, or Compact Florescent lighting at 3-5 watts per gallon for an average 18-20" deep tank. The flake food is fine on occasion but will not sustain this anemone for long. He eats anything because there isn't enough light. I would not suggest you move the anemone or try to handle it, this will do more harm to an already stressed animal. He needs more light, better food, and to be left to find his own place when those conditions are met. If you were to move him, first, you could injure him and second, he would move back to the highest point in the tank/light anyway. PLEASE read: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/anemones.htm and follow the links from there.>> <<Good luck, Craig>>
Re: question on Condy anemone
thank you I am buying a 50/50 55watt hood and a 40 watt sunlight hood to put on the tank will this sustain his need? I read the link and it is very helpful with the 50 and 40 I should have enough wattage I wish the pet store lady would have told me this will he live one more week till I get the hood updated? Thanks JM <<Hey Jerry>> <<Sounds better. You might try AHlighting supply, Champion lighting supply, or Marine Depot for affordable lighting. 90 watts will be the minimum and your Condy will still want to be close to the top of the tank, so you may want to build the rock up higher in an isolated area directly under the strongest light and give him the option of getting up close. If you can afford more light, like two 65 pc's, one for each side or two long fixtures, the higher light intensity and reflector would be appreciated by the anemone. The only other thing is to stop off at the store and buy some seafood for your dinner and then share with your anemone. I hope this works out for you. Try to get the lights ASAP and feed marine meats in the meantime. One thing this will do is prepare you for other light demanding inhabitants later on. Have FUN!>> <<Cheers, Craig>>

Condylactis anemone hi me again this is a picture of his disk and tentacles does he look ok his tentacle are open and bright his mouth is shut and he always eats good <<Yep, looks good to me. Glad to see his disc is more brown than white, this is good. Keep him fed and well lit. Good luck! Craig>>
Condylactis anemone
<<Hi Jerry!>> Hi I got it through and bought a 70 watt ballast and have a 70 watt daylight and a 30 watt actinic blue t12 I think hell like it better than the 30 watt I had on when I got him do they reproduce in captivity? like split into more anemones? or do you need another one two mate? thanks for all your great information <<Glad you got more light. The more the better (up to a point!). I haven't heard of Condy's splitting like the other varieties or of them being bred in captivity. Just get him in the proper conditions to survive for an extended period. Most people, including public aquariums, have dismal successes over one year with these anemones. It has been done but they are difficult to put it bluntly. Give it your best shot! Craig>>
Question on anemone (Condy care)
<<Hi Jerry!>> hi I'm gonna take your advice on my Condy anemone I'm buying 70 watt daylight and a 30 watt actinic blue I hear anemones love actinic blue heel appreciate this and I was wondering could I feed him guppies the lady at the pet store feed the saltwater fish them so I figured he'd like them will he last 4 more days till I get my new light setup? I plan to buy him silver side the day I get the brighter hood thanks on your great advice JM <<This sounds better. The more light up to 5 watts per gallon, the better!!! Bubble tips like more blue, your Condy would just love lots of light! I wouldn't feed guppies. Stop at the store on the way home from work and go to the seafood section. Buy some small shrimp (uncooked, not pink), prawns, scallops, etc. Just cut it into 1/4" or smaller pieces and feed it to him (on a piece of clear stiff air tube). You don't need special fish food! He will need to eat two more times before you get the lights. Hope this works for you, Craig>>
Condylactis anemone
<Hi Jerry> I think I feed him too much, I feed him half an inch, he still gobbles it down. <Don't overdo it.> I notice when he's about to move his foot bloats up looks like its gonna explode and it shrinks gets bigger than shrinks gets bigger than shrinks is this how they move? thanks JM <Yep, Have fun. Craig>
Re: Condylactis anemone
He died today very bad news. At least he was still whole. I knew when I saw him today he was bloated 3 times his size and looked like he was gonna explode my nitrates are still low. Thought I'll try again. I wonder what made him die after 3 weeks of having him? I have good water good light good food huh? What anemone do you recommend that is easy to take care of and lives long? Thanks very disappointing. <I'm sorry to hear your anemone died Jerry. Your tank is very new and even though you say the nitrates are still low, you want perfectly pristine water for anemones and a well established tank. I would run with what you have for at least a year while you let things settle in a bit. I know this sounds like a long time, but as you can see, anemones like things really stable and your tank is too young to be really stable yet. When your tank is ready I recommend you shop around for a Bubble Tip Clone (Entacmaea quadricolor) perhaps the hardiest anemone in captivity. My condolences on your Condy. This is a common problem, don't feel alone. Craig> 

My Boyfriend Bought Me...Condy! Hi <Hi there! Scott F. with you tonight!> I need some help!!!!  I recently bought  a Haitian pink tip anemone,  and I need some information.  I purchased some frozen food for it today, recommended by a local pet store.  When I feed it do I need to cut it up or leave it in cubes?? <Definitely cut up the food into smaller pieces, and don't overfeed. You can squirt some of the food into the anemones tentacles with a turkey baster (very appropriate this time of year!). How do I care for it??  When I bought it I didn't ask too many questions, cause I thought that my boyfriend knew what to do with it!   Please Help Thanks Christie <Well, Christie, first thing that you need to do is slap that guy! You now know never to buy any animal, especially an anemone, before you study up on it! Enough lecture...Fortunately, these are the among the hardiest of anemones. However, they still require bright light, vigorous current, and clean, stable water conditions in order to thrive. They can get quite large and very colorful with proper care. They generally will not host Clownfishes, being a Caribbean species, however, larger Clownfishes, such as Tomato clowns, do sometimes take up residence in them. These anemones can and will move around in the tank until they find a spot that's just to their liking, so make sure that all filter intakes, powerheads, etc., are configured so that the anemone is not accidentally drawn in and injured or killed should it wander around. With attention to the environment, and proper care, these anemones can live for many, many years. Do a search on this species using the Google search feature on the wetwebmedia.com site for more information. Good luck!  Scott F.>

- Condylactis Lighting - Hi guys. <Hello, JasonC here...> The LFS (usually pretty trustworthy) told me that Condys don't need intense lighting. <I'm not sure I agree with that at all. The Condylactis are as photosynthetic as any other anemone. They keep theirs in one of those shelf systems on the bottom shelf....it's almost dark in there!! <Well, they have the advantage that they can replace that anemone when it craps out, giving the illusion that it's lived there for a long time. I would be willing to bet that they kill one a couple of times a year.> Also, they told me that you can only count on Maroon Clowns to pair up with them. <I doubt that... Condylactis anemones hail from the tropical Atlantic and Maroon Clowns are Pacific in origin, although Condylactis anemones do show up in the Pacific.> I thought that ALL anemones required tons of experience and tons of light... what's the deal with my LFS? <Who knows... do read up on the Condylactis here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/twaanemones.htm > Matt <Cheers, J -- >

Condylactis Anemone Lighting Requirements <Hello again> I am sorry Ryan for being so short. I just did not want to make a long one out of it. I do have about 85-90lbs of live rock but no sand bed I just have some crushed coral and the live rock. <Good to hear> Thx for the link and I am sure I will find the info on what the sand bed does. <Yes, it should help.  Also good to have if you ever want to dabble in corals.> But just incase I am a bigger idiot then I thought Please let me know on the sand deal. <I'll give you the benefit of the doubt!  You're just providing refuge for beneficial life in your tank that ordinarily would perish without the safety of a sand bed.> Thx sooooooooooooo much for the help and all the others there as well <Absolutely.> PS  I don't remember if I mentioned my tank is 24" deep. Is my lighting still good ? I know these Condys like to move. <Yes, they'll move to where they life it.  Your lighting should be just fine, just research the photoperiod and stick to it. Ryan> Michael

Condylactis Anemone Lighting Requirements <Hi! Ryan with you> Hi my name is Michael and I have a 92G Oceanic corner tank and have been studying about Condys. I think I want one but I want to make sure about the lighting I have.  In the very back of the tank I have 2- 28W Actinic PC's, in front of that I have a 175W MH 5500K, and in front of that I have 1-96W 10K PC, and in front of that 1-96W actinic PC.  Is this enough lighting for a anemone "Condy"?  I LOVE YOU GUYS!  Thanks for being here.  Michael <Michael, it sounds like you're on your way to providing a good home for anemones.  You'll have about 4-5 watts per gallon with your current lighting- sounds appropriate.  I can't stress enough that you need high water quality.  You didn't mention live rock/sand.  I wouldn't even try an anemone of any sort without a deep sand bed and 1-2 pounds of live rock per gallon.  These links should prove helpful in your research: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/condylactis.htm http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/twaanemones.htm Best of luck! Ryan>

Lighting for a Condy (10-3-03) Hey guys,<Howdy, Cody here today.> I have another question.. I was interested in purchasing a Condy anemone... I am not sure what its full name is but I wanted to know do these guys need strong lighting.. I have a 60 gal tank.. its 14.5" tall.. currently I have 120watts of light (2 50/50, and 1 marine Glo) is this enough... and if not how much more should I get.. seeing that at the moment its 2 watt per gallon..<They are not as demanding as some of the other anemones but they still require higher lighting than what you have now.  There are too many different lighting choices to give you a general rule but do some research on the Wet Web site and you should be able to find everything you need.  Cody>

Condy Candy >I want to thank you for an invaluable resource first of all! >>You're welcome. >Secondly, I have a few questions about a Candy (floridia (sp) I believe) anemone.    >>That would be a Condylactis anemone. >I recently got one free with my live rock/sand order.  After reading up on it I understand that these are inexpensive and common anemones which also do not have that high rate of success.   >>Well, anemones in general have a poor success rate, however, Condys and BTA's (bubble tips) have a better than average rate of success - BTAs more so with advanced reefers. >When I first put him in the tank (50 gallon with 2x 250w MH and 2x 96w PC) he was small, but opened up after 1 day, and I kept the MH off for the first few days.  I had placed him in a position just next to a small piece of rock in the middle of the tank where there is very high water flow that changes direction due to crossing currents, and he hasn't moved since I put him there.  I am assuming he likes his placement?   >>It would move if it didn't.  Don't be surprised if it does move.  Keep those powerhead and other intakes well-protected! >I have been feeding him almost daily about a ¼ to ½ inch piece of squid in addition to any small Mysid or blood worms that get stuck on his tentacles.   >>I would not feed bloodworms to any of your animals on a regular basis.  They're great for getting certain picky eaters going on feed, but once eating, stick with marine-based foods. >I now know that 1/4 is the optimal size and not to go over that.   >>1/4 what? >He started out completely white with only small purple dots on the tips of his tentacles; however, I have been noticing the beginning of a color change in him and definitely a brown/green hue to him on one side.  Is that the color I can expect and I gather this is his new crop of zooxanthellae?   >>More than likely, it's probably brighter/more intense in your system than from whence he came. >There were 2 days that when I would come home, he would be completely withdrawn, but my fiancé said he had just gone to that state and had been out all day.  I looked closer and my pistol shrimp had made an entrance to his burrow under that rock.  That hole is now closed up and the Condy doesn't stay out and about all day and night. >>Not unusual, but could be a sign of a problem.  Watch for disintegration.  If that happens, you know he's a goner and MUST remove it immediately. >Any words of advice?   >>Those were them up there. >I am kind of disappointed that my tomatoes wont host in him (they are very small still) and was planning on getting a BTA, however, now that I have this Condy, I don't want to encourage chemical warfare.   >>I think you have some things mixed up here, my friend.  You know that the Condy is an Atlantic species.  This means that all clowns, Pacific specifically, never host such an animal in nature.  It's not unheard of for them to host these and other things (Goniopora, hammer corals, frogspawn, powerheads, lift tubes, overflows, et al), but don't keep the cake waiting on it. If you're new, I would strongly recommend waiting at LEAST a year before attempting something like a BTA.  Get more experience under your belt, anemones and sea stars are among the most difficult of inverts to keep. >Such a gorgeous creature, I hope I can keep him alive and well. >>We do too.  Keep that water in pristine parameters (near sea water quality), and you should be on your way.  Feeding him is good, but do change out the bloodworms for something else. >Thanks again, -Darien Ford >>You're welcome, mate.  Have fun with the Condy, and try not to worry too much (but be diligent).  Marina

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