Please visit our Sponsors
FAQs on Flasher Wrasses, Genus Paracheilinus Systems

Related Articles: Flasher Wrasses

Related FAQs: Flasher Wrasses, & FAQs on: Flasher Wrasse Identification, Flasher Wrasse Behavior, Flasher Wrasse Compatibility, Flasher Wrasse Selection, Flasher Wrasse Feeding, Flasher Wrasse Disease, Flasher Wrasse Reproduction, & Wrasses, Wrasse Selection, Wrasse Behavior, Wrasse Compatibility, Wrasse Feeding, Wrasse Diseases,  

If your system is ready for cnidarians... it's likely fine for these wrasses.

Flasher wrasse pair. Sys., stkg./sel.    8/15/11
Hello! I am very interested in flasher wrasse. I saw one (male) at my LFS and have been interested in keeping one ever since. I have two aquariums which are both empty of fish at the moment: one is 30g and the other is an ADA 60-P tank (17.4g) attached to a 20g sump/fuge.
<These systems are both too small for this genus>
First, I am wondering if either would be large enough to house any flasher wrasse? I know that Hiroyuki Tanaka said a single adult could be kept in 60 x 30 x 30 cm (about 15g)
<Am surprised at this stmt. ascribed to Hiro>
and another site said they only need 10g while yet another said a minimum of 55g so as you can imagine I am clueless. Are there any that are particularly small or suitable for Nano-sized tanks like mine? Next, I am curious as to why it is always suggested to keep a single male with a minimum of 2 females. Are they like Anthias in the sense that the males harass females?
<Keep reading>
Or is it just because they are found with many in the wild? I am unable to find any information about this.
<? really>
Ideally I would like to keep a male+female pair but I don't know if that is possible.
Finally, as for my 30g tank, if I kept an active flasher wrasse, I am curious as to whether or not it would scare my (planned) yellowhead jawfish into hiding or if it would encourage it to come out more as a "dither fish"? Thanks! :)
<Please see/read on WWM re Pseudocheilinus. Bob Fenner>
Re: Flasher wrasse pair   8/16/11
Wow! Thanks for the quick response. I am curious to know if we are on the same foot, though, so I am sending this in hopes of confirmation. I am referring to the flasher wrasse (Paracheilinus) and not the lined wrasse (Pseudocheilinus)
<Ahh, I do apologize... was so jet-lagged/pooped that I sent the wrong genus. Actually yes to both genera's members... They don't do well in such small volumes. I would not place either in anything that was under four foot in length... the 55 "show" you mentioned minimal>
which you mention at the end. Is it possible that you could link me to where it says whether or not the males harass?
<Males do. Are you familiar w/ our search tool: Please read here:
it's linked on every page>
I searched through the flasher wrasse section but found nothing. I have read to keep groups in larger tanks together, but not a reason why.
<These species of Labrids live in loose associations, shoals (with dissimilar status of individuals as opposed to schools)... in sorts of "haremic" groups... with an alpha/dominant male, perhaps a/some upcoming semi-males (terminal individuals), a bunch of initial/females and sexually undifferentiated members... They (these species) are not colorful or interesting behaviorally, nor happy/long-lived kept as singles in captivity>
I was thinking it may be like Anthias but at the same time I see pairs offered on websites like Liveaquaria which makes me question why.
<Are a great deal like the Anthiines; yes>
Here is the tank size "ascribed" to Hiroyuki Tanaka:
<Thank you for this. I do see the comment under: Flasher Wrasses in the Aquarium
And here is confirmation:
<Thank you for this correction, follow-up. Bob Fenner>
Fairy/Flasher wrasses   8/16/11

Hey, I just wanted to know your guys technique for acclimating wrasses, specifically the Cirrhilabrus genus of fairy wrasses or Paracheilinus genus of flasher wrasses.
<Stock: http://wetwebmedia.com/acclimat.htm
I know you do not advise dripping, but what amount of time do you float for, and if adding tank water how much at a time?
<... posted>
Also, what would be your minimum advised tank size for a single male exquisite fairy wrasse? Thank you.
<I wouldn't stock a single male/terminal phase individual... SEE WWM re. Won't be happy, colorful, live long or well alone... a small group might be housed in a four foot long system. Bob Fenner
Re: Fairy/Flasher wrasses   8/17/11
Haha darn. I upgraded to this 30 gallon from a 10 thinking I could have a better selection of fish (which I do to some extent) and now many of the fish I want just get too big or need harems.
<Quite a common situation. BTW, I've written Dr. Tanaka re his opinion>
I guess I will go with a flasher then which is no problem as they are also very cool. Would you recommend a pair or a single male for my tank?
<No; as stated previously, these volumes are too small for this genus' members as well>
Also, do you have any favorites? I like the McCosker's and Linespot if I could find one with the blue coloring. Most I've seen have been completely red/maroon.

Flasher Wrasse Stocking Question... Too Many Wrasses 12/05/2007 Good Evening, <Good evening Jonathan, Mich here.> After reading all of the information about the Flasher wrasse(*Paracheilinus)* species I am left looking for an opinion for stocking my specific tank. I have a 28 gallon Nano-cube (if you are not familiar with the line there is roughly 25g of swimming space with another 3 gals partitioned in the back for filtration and skimming. My tank has been cycled for almost 4 weeks and I just added a small mushroom colony and Zoa colony over the last week. These are already starting to grow larger. The tank also contains 3 species of snail (about 24 total), <Hopefully 3 species with different diets. other wise I'd worry about starvation.> a dozen hermits, <Not a fan.> and a pair of cleaner shrimp. <Like these!> In a few more weeks I will be ready for fish (assuming my tests stay good) and I have been very excited about stocking this tank with Flasher wrasses since before I even purchased the tank. <The plural form you use here concerns me.> Your site has provided the most amount of info from the web that I have been able to find to date, so thank-you very much for that! <There is much here. I'm glad you have found it helpful!> Now for the actual question: <OK!> Will 25gal be sufficient to stock this tank with a trio of *P. mccoskeri *(1 male, 2 female)? <I would not do this. Generally this should not be done in a tank of less than 100 gallons.> If not would the *P. attenuatus* be a better choice? <No, your tank is much too small to house three wrasses. It is questionable if it is big enough for just one.> Long term the plan is to also have a clown goby (haven't settled on a specific one yet) <OK. But I would only recommend one wrasse and possibly this goby in a small setting.> and possibly another interesting invert, along with several more corals. <Need to be careful here with the potential for allelopathy.> I appreciate your time and dedication to this "hobby" <On behalf of Bob and the rest of the crew, we thank you for your kind words. Mich> -Jonathan

Flasher wrasse in a 30 gal? Dear WWM Crew,   I have a 2 1/2 year old 30 gallon mini reef (my first aquarium of any kind) and with the assistance of your site's wealth of info I've managed to avoid any major problems with the possible exception of the "new reef-keeper coral garden syndrome".  Regular harvests of xenia, mushrooms and to a lesser extent frogspawn and Pocillopora are actually coming close to covering the expenditures to maintain the tank, and I'm slowly getting the coral density back to something more reasonable.   The system has a 10 gallon sump/refugium (About 6 gallons is actual refugium) returned by a Mag 7 and I run 2 skimmers, the original Prizm with a Poly Filter in the media basket and an Aqua-C Remora that I got in May.   I also use an Aqua clear Mini for mechanical filtration and to hold carbon.  Add a Maxi Jet 1200 and I come up with about 29x turnover of the total water volume so there is good movement in the system.  The refugium was originally planted with Caulerpa prolifera but I've switched over to Chaetomorpha (I keep a few runners of the Caulerpa going too.  You never know.) and is lit 24/7.  Ph is 8.3-8.4 just before lights on and never exceeds 8.5.  Ammonia, nitrite and nitrate are undetectable.  (In fact I bought a new nitrate test kit to make sure because I never got a reading after the initial cycle.)  Alkalinity is 3 mEq and calcium is 300 ppm.  Both are on the way up slowly as I've just balanced supplementation of Kalk with a regular harvest of corals. I have three fish currently all for two years.  One 2.75" Ocellaris Clownfish, one 2" Ocellaris Clownfish and one somewhat shy 2.75" Fridmani Pseudochromis.  Until July I had a 3.5" Sixline wrasse too who was my absolute favorite.  He would pose at the front of the tank for people and never stopped moving (or eating, he was a hog).    Unfortunately in August he got out the back of the tank despite my screening.  He must have done a salmon flop up the Prism's outflow or something so I added some more screen there and secured it better.  Hopefully no repeats in the future.   Now with all of the background done here is my question!  I have been looking at adding another fish to replace my late Sixline.  Since he's been gone the clowns don't come out of their xenia forest much at all and the male has taken to biting me when I put my hand in the tank.  (Or maybe he likes the taste of rubber.)  Just less activity overall and I think that losing the #1 eater/pooper may have at least indirectly led to the demise of my fighting conch.   I figured that getting a fish to fill a similar niche in the tank was probably a good idea but wanted to try something a little different like maybe one of the smallest of fairy wrasses or a flasher wrasse.  After a lot of research I have decided that a Carpenter's flasher wrasse would be a nice fit.  The only hang up is that several sources suggest that maintaining just one is not optimal for the fish's long term health and coloring.  My Sixline would flare and show off all the time and I'd like to encourage the same behavior in a flasher wrasse.  If I get a pair of juveniles will one end up as a male and one a female? << No, I don't think this is a good idea.  I wouldn't recommend a flasher wrasse for this tank.  If you do get one, then I'd only get one.  They are territorial and aggressive eaters. >> Also will the undivided attention of one male stress a female badly?  I think that my system can sustain two of this size fish no problem but I'm uncomfortable adding more than that since my long term rule from day one was no more than 15" of fish.  (I'm allowing for the clowns to grow a little more.)  So I don't want to add three - I'll choose something else.  I'm not too worried about aggression from the current inhabitants.  The clowns and the Dottyback keep very small territories.  (And I used to catch them and the Sixline schooling together when they thought no one was looking!)  Please let me know if two flasher wrasses will be a suitable number or if they should be maintained in odd groups only.   << I'd try one for now. >> One other question if you don't mind.  I have a 10 gallon quarantine tank with another Aquaclear mini.  (Two sponges are "baking" in the sump right now.)  I was thinking of moving the Prizm skimmer over to the quarantine tank during the month the new fish will be in there.  I would take it off before adding any medications and if any disease does turn up I'll clean it completely with bleach and leave it sit dry for a month or so before returning it to the main tank.  Would I create any complications in the quarantine tank if the skimmer was running in it along with the power filter? << Sounds like a good idea, maybe not necessary but a good idea. >> It seems to me that the new fish would be living in royal digs if they had a skimmer in QT.   I appreciate your input very much and thanks a ton in advance! Matt Three Rivers, MI <<  Blundell  >>

Filamented Flasher Wrasse Biotope Crew,             I am looking for some information; I'd like to set up a filamented flasher wrasse biotope.  I have a 90g tank (48x18x24) with 4x96w PC lights and a completely enclosed hood.  I seem to recall that this wrasse lives at depths of 40 feet or so and that the appropriate lighting would therefore be 20k MH bulbs.  Is this the case, and if so is there any way I can adapt my current lighting to approximate that without switching over to MH. <your pc are fine use a 20,000k bulb or something on the blue end>   I'd also like some advice on how many wrasse are appropriate for this size tank. <if this is the only fish going to be in there you could put 1 male and 6-10 females>  Everything I've read suggests one male to two females, but assuming more than three fish is appropriate for this size tank, I don't know if that formula should be strictly applied to larger groups.  Do these wrasse sleep in the substrate or in rock (i.e. do I have the option of going with a bare bottom tank)? <they sleep in rock and you do have the opinion for going with out substrate but many little critters live in there that they can eat>    I was planning on a fairly substantial amount of rock in the tank (at least 150 lbs).  Also, the wrasse seems to have a fairly large geographic area that it's from, and I'm interested in perhaps one or two types of corals that would be consistent with the wrasse's biotope.  Are there any you can recommend?  Again, I've looked around a lot but I can't find the kind of specific information on this particular subject (ex. Many corals are listed as being from Fiji or the great barrier reef but I can't seem to find an appropriate depth listing). <try Vernon books he lists everything>  Finally, is there any particular restriction on water flow rate for this wrasse? <lots of flow>   Any additional recommendations or advice you have would be helpful and much appreciated. Your site has been quite a help thus far, and I look forward to hearing from you. <I would add the females first let them get settle down the add the male. Also make sure you have tops covering the tank they are jumpers thanks Mike H>
Thank you.

Any Wrasses Less Likely To Jump? -- 07/19/07 Hello. <<Hi Pam!>> Are any wrasses less likely to jump than others? <<Most all the small ornamental species offered/used in the trade have varying tendencies re.. in my experience>> I have an open tank, and I know most wrasses are jumpers, but I thought if they were put in with all peaceful fish, that they may not jump. <<This does help, but it is not just the other fishes that can/will cause a wrasse (any 'jumper' species) to head for the open air. At one time I had a couple small groups of Flasher Wrasse species that would go 'nuts' if the lights on the tank were to suddenly 'black out' as from a power surge/outage...sounded like pinballs pinging around in the light hood!>> I have an Elos tank, and don't want to cover it with Eggcrate or screen. <<Neat!...and understood>> The beauty of the tank, is that it's rimless and open. <<Yes...very nice>> My fish are all very peaceful. Right now I have a Pygmy Possum Wrasse, a Purple Firefish and a Tailspot Blenny. I really wanted to add a Laboutei, but don't want to be irresponsible if it's definitely going to leap out of the tank and die. <<VERY likely with this species...and is the same pretty much with all the Flasher and Fairy Wrasse species. I have experienced, as well as very often hear of these fishes demise from leaping out an 'uncovered' system>> I know Firefish can be jumpers, but my Firefish never goes beyond the bottom half of the tank, and if he gets spooked, he dives into the rock...never up. I have two good size caves in my rock and lots of crevices and swim-throughs. <<All good, though many of the wrasses tend to be more active in the upper-third of the water column>> So..... should I definitely nix the idea of the Laboutei? <<Logic would seem to dictate this...>> Are any other bright wrasses less likely to jump? <<Still no guarantee it won't end up on the floor, but the smaller Halichoeres species are quite colorful and would be 'less likely' than the Laboutei to sail out of your tank...in my opinion. H. Chrysus is a premier aquarium species...and if you want something a bit less monochromatic, take a look at H. ornatissimus>> Thank you! Pam <<Regards, EricR>>

Re: Any Wrasses Less Likely To Jump? - 07/20/07 Thanks Eric. <<Quite welcome, Pam>> Ok, I'll take your advice and keep away from the Mystery Wrasses. <<I think you mean Flasher/Fairy Wrasses?...Probably for the best>> I took a look at the two wrasses you mentioned. <<Okay?>> I really like the ornatissimus. <<A gorgeous fish indeed>> I also was looking at the Five-barred Mystery Wrasse. <<Another beauty...love that 'expression'>> That's one of the only wrasses that LiveAquaria doesn't mention as a jumper. <<Am in disagreement>> Do you know if they are jumpers or not? <<I have known them to jump, yes...though 'possibly' less prone than the previous mentioned species due to their tendency to stay/hide lower in the water column. And please do understand, I have seen Halichoeres spp jump as well...I just think these are the better 'gamble' re >> Thanks, Pam <<Happy to assist. Eric Russell>>

Become a Sponsor Features:
Daily FAQs FW Daily FAQs SW Pix of the Day FW Pix of the Day New On WWM
Helpful Links Hobbyist Forum Calendars Admin Index Cover Images
Featured Sponsors: