FAQs about Metal Halide & Halogen Lights
and Lighting for 40-200 Gallon Marine Systems
Related FAQs: Metal Halides for Medium-Sized Systems 1,
Metal Halides for Medium-Sized Systems
2, Metal Halides 1, Metal Halides 2, Metal Halides 3, Metal Halides 4, Metal Halides 5, Metal Halides 6, Metal Halides 7, Metal Halides for Small Systems, MH for 200 gal. Plus Systems, Metal Halide Lamp Issues, Metal Halide Fixture Issues, Metal Halide Heat Issues, MH Repair Issues, Compact Fluorescents,
Fluorescents, Lighting Marine
Lighting, Small System Lighting,
Related Articles: Metal Halide Light, &
Lighting Articles, Coral System
Gorgeous but a big coral eater. An
Acanthaster where they "grow up" on the reef
Back in the game; lighting for a 75 reef
Hey Bob, we last spoke probably this time a year ago. Fiancé and I bought a
house over the summer, needed the for the sharks, I mean attorneys, and had to
sell my seahorses tank and fish only.
It's been 8 months, and I have been looking to get back with another tank,
although on the cheaper side.
A friend of mine who I've helped with his tank over the years, nitrate issues,
moving tank, changing rock out etc, has a 75 gallon tank at his
office he no longer wants.
He wants to give it to me for free. He's awful with names, so he doesn't know
what components it has or species it has other than "coral" and a purple tang.
I am assuming it has cheaper, off brand LEDs, which would be fine for low light
stuff, but my goal is sps.
<I'd be checking (with a PAR, PUR meter).... am a cheapskate.... to see if the
present LEDs would work>
I got a price on a t5/halide combo of 860 for 48 inch tank (yikes). So I found a
local guy on Craigslist, who has a 48 inch Aquactinics , halide t5.
He wants 100 for it, not sure how old it is, but it works.
<Can only tell by.... testing>
Only issue I see is it has two halide bulbs, 400watts each, and it has two t5
bulbs. (Always thought you needed at least 4-6 t5 bulbs)
Is 400 overkill for a 75?
<IMO, yes; can be... will have to fight, adjust for heating>
I like the price, buy will it nuke the tank, and in your experience, how
dangerous are halides in regards to fires etc?
<Can be trouble>
Thanks Bob, bob
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
re: Back in the game 1/14/16
Thanks Bob. Just to further clarify, if I can save 700 by going with this 400
watt halide, would the only concern be heat?
<Mmm; no; not the only concern. Actually overdriving photosynthesis is more
important; secondarily keeping up w/ testing/monitoring alkaline reserve, Ca,
I ask because the tank will be going into a finished basement, with central air,
and on the hottest day this summer in August, the basement hit a high of 67.
<Mmm duo... expensive to pay to heat the air then cool it. IF it were me, mine,
and I HAD to have/run MHs, I'd go w/ 250 watters.... IF it were me/mine I'd
check the current fixture for utility. IF you measure 100 or more PAR or PUR at
the depth you intend for SPS, I would stay/try this>
I understand the 75 is not deep, buy could I compensate by hanging the light 15
inches off the surface, as opposed to 7-8 inches?
<Helpful to some degree/s>
This light is obviously used , and is coming off an sps 90 gallon tank, which is
4 inches taller than the 75.
And just to clarify, you mentioned, "can only tell by..testing". The light def
works from a electrical, mechanical standpoint (the four bulbs and fans etc)
<I meant bio. function wise; but yes>
If its more than a heat issue using this light, I will ditch it and wait for a
to come along used. What makes the decision even tougher is the guy with the
light lives 3 miles from me!
Thanks again Bob
re: Back in the game 1/14/16
Thanks for that, makes all the sense in the world now.
I could use it, and hang it high, but your wasting heat and power and now have
to subtract it with air conditioning. Never mind not being able to utilize the
potential of the 400 and the stupid high electric bill.
Thanks for the explanation. I had a feeling, just needed it driven home
MH Over 55 Gallon
I have a question about putting a MH pendant over my 55 gallon.
I got an awesome deal on a Current Sundial 250w DE HQI pendant that has
2 32 watt actinic power compacts as well. If I get it I will only be
paying $100 for it.
My question is, I can't find another one because they are
discontinued, so would this single pendant be enough over the 55
<Mmm, should be... if you don't mind (and I certainly don't)
shaded, less lit areas to either side... I'd position the light
hanging several inches over oft-center... have less-light-using
livestock in the nether regions either side>
Thanks in advance.
<Welcome in real time. Bob Fenner>
Re: MH Over 55 Gallon 2/1/12
Would I be able to keep higher light corals (clams, SPS, things of that
sort)? Obviously not at the edges, but towards the center?
<Yes; in shallower water. B>
Lighting and Sump Confusion... MH choices
and sump/circ. rdg. 1/4/12
I am purchasing a 150 gallon tank as an upgrade to my 75 gallon
saltwater tank. The tank dimensions for the 150 gallon are 72Lx18wx30
deep. I would like a lighting system that will allow me to grow any
type of coral that I decide to purchase. Currently I have 2 150 watt MH
with moon and LED light combinations (2 separate 20inch units) . The
tank I am buying comes with one 72 inch 150 MH light system, with no
led or moon lights. Should I use the 72 inch fixture or should I use
all of them together? Are actinic lights necessary with halides?
<I would, at this juncture, use all these 150 MH's together.
250's might be better for some species placed near/er the bottom,
and no to needing actinics... These are mostly for looks, not function.
Please read here re: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/setup/lighting/actinicfaqs.htm
As for the sump, I have a 25-30 gallon sump currently with a very
<Better by far to have a not-so-strong pump here, and use internal
pumps to move water about for circulation. See WWM re>
and a large protein skimmer that is plumbed outside of the sump. I
would like to use this same system for the 150 gallon. Will the volume
of the sump be too small and if so, what would you recommend?
<Mmm, as large a sump as possible... this one can be made to work...
given sufficient number, diameter of overflows... to discount transit
volume size issue... Please learn to/use the search tool/indices on
WWM... For here, start reading: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm
the second tray down....>
I do not understand what the significance of the volume of the sump is,
could you explain please?
<Is gone over and over where you've just been referred. Please
feel free to write back w/ more specific concerns, questions should
these not be fully realized by your reading>
Thanks so much :)
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Help on MH/Reef Lighting
Thank you, thank you, thank you! I must say again what a wealth of
great information you have, thank you!
Ok, now that I got that out, onto the topic at hand ^_^ . I have been
reading through the FAQs on lighting, but I was hoping to get some
confirmation if I am on track with my lighting or if you might have
some suggestions on which way to go. I am planning on swapping out my
two 4x 39w T5 fixtures over my 125g tank for 2x 250w MH. I don't
have a lot in there right now save some mini carpet anemones and
mushroom corals (a lot less now that I fragged off about 40), but I
really want to start keeping more SPS,
so I ended up getting a used 2x 250w ballast with sockets for $100 from
my LFS. The reason I went with the 2x250 w was simply because the tank
has a center brace, instead of 2 braces on either end like I have seen
some 125g tanks have. If my tank had the 2 braces, I would have went
with 3x 175w, but I thought in this case having the 3 bulbs, one would
be mostly blocked by the brace, thus negating much of the benefit of
having the bulb there, as well as having the possibility of damaging,
or warping the center brace,
which I would like to steer clear of.
I am planning on keeping the less light demanding mushrooms off to
either side of the halides, and center tank, as the brace would be
shielding most of the light from over head, and the sides should have
less intense light, as halides are said to cover a 2'x2' area.
As far as reflectors are concerned, what should I be looking at? I
don't want to toast anything, but I also don't want any of the
SPS I decide to keep to starve. I have access to be able to make my own
parabolics, but I was thinking of getting some Reef Optix 2, as they
are fairly reasonable, since I don't need sockets.
<The Reef Optix are decent reflectors.>
Perhaps I might get better reflectors down the road as money warrants,
but I don't know if they would really be needed if I kept
everything towards the top of the tank anyway (due to the LR formation
in the tank).
<Although metal halides do produce a lot of light, there will be
much light lost without the use of a reflector. You have to realize the
halide lamps emit light 360 degrees.>
Actinic supplementation isn't really an option right now, so I was
looking at getting a higher Kelvin bulb. Right now it seems that the
20000k bulbs are a good option, though I was thinking about possibly
getting 14000k bulbs, though I can't really decide.
<The 14Ks would be a much better choice, more useful photosynthetic
Any suggestions here? Over all, I would like to make this the last
light upgrade I do for the tank, so if it sounds ok, or needs some
tweaking, please let me know.
<You did not mention the length, width, and height of this system as
well as how far the lamps will be from the water's surface. Would
have helped me with my response.>
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Re Metal Halide Help/Reef Lighting 9/21/11
<Justin, before I get started, please reply to the original thread.
It helps to know what went on and, when mail comes in, it all goes to
an inbox which is sorted out by crew members.
No one would have a clue as to which crew member responded to this
I do apologize on not giving all the LxWxH and distance from water
surface. The tank is a 72"x18"x22". I have a 6"
sand bed so, from the top of the water surface to the sand bed it is
pretty close to 16".
I was planning on keeping the lights somewhere between 8"-10"
off the surface of the water to allow ample room for my fans to push
some air across the surface of the water to help reduce some of the
<Will help and you should have pretty good light coverage at that
height as well.>
As far as the comment"<Although metal halides do produce a lot
of light, there will be much light lost without the use of a reflector.
You have to realize the halide lamps emit light 360 degrees.>, I was
planning on using a reflector off the get-go.
<Mmm, thought you made a statement as to doing away with a reflector
for fear of scorching corals.>
I was wondering if the Reef Optix 2 will serve my purposes, as spending
per reflector on Lumenarc/Lumen Max isn't an option right at this
<As I mentioned in the previous email, the Reef Optix is a decent
At most the SPS will be 6"-8" under the surface of the water,
so I am not really sure if I need to spend all that extra money on the
reflectors, with the corals sitting in such close proximity to the
<Is not that close considering the height of your lights.>
I am thinking of getting some Montipora, Pocillopora, or Porites
(though proper husbandry
will see what I end up with). I am not sure on the Acropora, as the
ones available at my LFS always seems to be the green variety, and I am
looking for a little more color variation. My wife loves maxima clams,
but I am not
sure if the lights will be intense enough on the sand bed.
<Should be fine with your tank depth, and you may have to experiment
with the lighting height.>
I Hope that helps a little more.
<Yes, it did.>
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
A thank you to Bob Fenner and 55 gallon
lighting questions 10/4/10
Hi Bob or other WWM crew member,
It is such an honor to have you answer my question. Your book *The
Conscientious Marine Aquarist * was what made me want to get into this
hobby five years ago and it gave me the confidence to start up my 24
I must thank you for inspiring me to get into the hobby because I now
know this is what I want to do with my life and after I finish going to
high school I am going to get my degree in Aquarium Science.
<Ahh! Deeply gratifying to find your life amplified, directed by my
Your book, and wonderful website, has provided me with the answers to
basically any question I have had and I have used your book so much
that it is falling off its binding. This is the first time I have not
been able to find an answer. I have reviewed all your Metal Halide FAQs
and do not see my question asked before and I greatly apologize if it
I am setting up a 55 gallon aquarium (48'L, 13'W, 20'H). I
plan on making it a reef, with corals ranging from mushrooms to SPS. I
am going to use the Berlin Method of filtration, so I am only using an
Eshopps PSK-100H protein skimmer, a 1,200 GPH power head and 50 lbs of
Marcorock. I was planning on
getting two 150 watt HQI metal halide fixtures made by Odyssea. I know
this brand is really low quality, but I could not afford anything
better. Today I went to my LFS and the owner was willing to reduce his
prices by almost 50% and sell me a:
<... not two?>
Along with one of these ballasts I am not sure which one:
He would also include a 20,000k 250 watt Radium bulb:
<Mmm, I'd use 10k lamps myself>
This set up would cost around the same as the two Odyssea lights, but I
am getting high grade German equipment instead.
<The Al for the housing>
He would also sell me the same thing, only with a 400 watt Radium bulb
instead of the 250 watt bulb for the same price, but he and I both
thought that would be too much light. He had the same set up with the
400 watt bulb 20' above his 48' long tank and it looked fine,
but it was much wider than and not as tall as my tank.
My questions are:
1. Will this lighting set up be able to light up all four feet of my
<Not one fixture/lamp, no>
I have a small black plastic brace in the center of my tank; will that
get in the way?
<I would NOT place the/a MH lamp over this area... best to suspend
two fixtures, about equidistant over the two open areas on either
I know it will light up more than the width of my tank, but I am ok
with that because I am getting it for such a great price.
2. How high should I suspend it over my tank?
<There are tools for such, I'd ask Sunshine supply re what they
I would like to keep SPS coral at all depths if possible and I would
love to keep clams on the sand bed.
3. Is there any danger to my eyesight using metal halides?
<Mmm, some... as with all light/ing sources, best not to stare
directly at the lamps, reflectors when powered on>
Since the reflector does not allow a splash guard and I do not have a
canopy, I will see the bulb unshielded.
<If the lamp/s themself/ves are shielded, not such a big deal... but
do keep wiped clean (ONLY when off, cool) if splash is an issue>
4. Would I be able to keep the corals and clams that I want if I was to
use a 48' Tek Light with four 54 watt HO T5 bulbs instead of this
halide set up?
<Mmm, not really... only the upper water area... for SPS, likely not
Tridacnid on the bottom>
If so, how high should I suspend it above my tank?
<See the ad you cite... they list the availability of a hanging
Here is a link to the Tek
Thanks so very much,
<Welcome! Bob Fenner>
What Wattage MH? -- 02/22/10
Thanks for your tireless contributions to the enlightenment of us
aquarium lovers out here.
<<Is our pleasure>>
I have read through all sorts of metal halide forums and FAQs, and
well'¦ to get the bottom line I really trust the opinions here
above all else.
<<Thanks for the vote of confidence>>
To my question, I have a 72 gallon 'corner' bow tank. It
measures 48' across, 22' wide at its widest point, and 25'
deep. I have a sand bed that is ~3-5' deep (I have an engineer goby
who loves to aquascape for me so the bed varies ^^).
<<A yes'¦I do love these critters for the way they keep
the substrate nice and 'white''¦but not so much for
the hole digging, and 'strafing' of the corals with
Lighting = two 96W compact fluorescents. The tank has soft corals in it
now; xenia, green star, and clove polyps. The clove and green star are
pretty much taking over the world here.
I would like to move into SPS as the tank has been up nearly two years
and doing well.
<<Okay'¦but I do suggest you at least thin out the
noxious organisms you have now first, if not get rid of them all
together. Do so will make keeping 'SPS' a bit
I would like to get metal halides for aesthetic and photosynthetic
needs of stonies.
<<This is my fave lighting solution>>
I am looking at a fixture that has 2 -- 250W 14K halides (it's a
'Sunpod' made by Current). I am really tempted to get this
fixture for reasons as I can pick it up for around $200 on
With 500 Watts of light I would be at nearly 7 watt/gallon here.
<<The 'watts per gallon' rule is a very basic guideline,
Is this too much!?
<<Nope'¦is what I would use>>
I am afraid I may be better served with 2 -- 150W
<<Maybe so'¦but in my experience, for what you wish to
keep versus the depth of the tank, I think the 250w metal halides are
the better choice providing greater 'flexibility' re stocking
only problem being they would cost nearly twice as much. Would the 2 --
150W's also be enough for stonies in a relatively deep tank?
<<Could be'¦.depending on species selection/placement
(Do also be aware that the terms 'stony' coral and
'SPS' coral are not necessarily synonymous)>>
<<250w metal halides would be 'my' choice
Thanks in advance for your time.
<<Is a pleasure to share'¦ Eric
Lighting Recommendation (T5 or MH) --
I am planning an upgrade (within 6 weeks) of my 58 gallon reef/SPS
system (36X18X21) to a 150 gallon deep dimension reef/SPS system
(36X36X27) and had a question about lighting.
Will T5s be sufficient for SPS corals in a tank with a height of
27inches or are metal halides in my future?
<<Well I have to tell you Daniel, I'm a big fan of MH
lighting as I think it provides the best look as well as the most
bang-for-the-buck'¦especially on deep tanks. But I have also
seen some quite nice systems under T5 lighting'¦including some
tanks in the 24' deep range. As long as you maximize the number and
wattage of the bulbs over your tank, and place the most light-demanding
organisms in the upper-half of the water column, you should be fine to
continue with T5 lighting on your 150g display>>
I currently have 6 - 39W T5s over my 58 gallon which has a height of 21
inches and have no problems providing the needed light
intensity/requirements for my current corals (Pocillopora damicornis -
6 inches from the water surface, Montipora capricornis - 12 inches from
water surface and Seriatopora hystrix - 12 inches from water
<<Indeed'¦but as you demonstrate, placement of the
organisms is key>>
I will need to add more light to what I already have for the 150 gallon
system but don't know if additional T5s will do the job.
<<They should, yes'¦especially with an eye toward more
'daylight' bulbs vs. 'actinic'>>
I don't want to stack live rock 24 inches high to enable placement
of corals for sufficient light.
<<This should not be necessary>>
Also, if metal halides will be required, what wattage fixture would you
suggest? (I was thinking about one - 250 watt fixture that would move
diagonally across the tank supplemented with 4 - 39W actinic).
<<A single MH pendant on a rail system to track across the tank
would be very interesting. A 250w unit would likely suffice, but for
such a system I would be inclined to go with a 400w bulb/fixture to
maximize light intensity toward the 'fringe' of the lighting
footprint'¦and use one of the better 'large'
reflectors like the Lumen Max Elite from Sunlight Supply or the Lumen
Bright from CoralVue>>
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and maintaining such a great
<<The pleasure is ours>>
Sea Stars: Fromia Sp Selection also MH
Well I've been reading about sea stars lately and know how hard
they are to keep in captivity but I've been reading that the Fromia
species are one of the "easier" species to care for. my
question is does that pertain
to all Fromia species?
<The ones that are offered for sale, yes. Keep in mind though, that
'easier' does not mean easy.>
I've been looking into the red Bali star and the marble stars. in
your opinion which is the hardier of the two?
<No data regarding the hardiness of one over the other, do try to
pick the best, and healthiest looking star you can. Do acclimate it
I have a 72 gallon bow will about 70 lbs of live rock. Also I plan on
switching my lighting from pc to metal halides but I'm not sure to
go with 2 150watt 14k or 2 250 14k. Would there be a big difference in
the two for a 23inch deep tank.
<Yes, a significant difference between the two. Unless you plan on
having some very light hungry corals in this tank. You should be fine
with the 150 watt lamps.>
Thanks so much and I really do appreciate what you guys do for us.
Metal Halide Migraine, fixt. sel.
Hi WWM Crew,
Thank you so much for your generous help, especially for us beginners!
My question is about metal halide lighting, etc.. I have read article
after article, only to come to the conclusion that I am overwhelmed and
over stimulated on the topic of choosing the correct lighting for our
Since I do not have an electrical engineering degree or anything close
to it, I look to you guys... HELP!!!
I have a 2 month old 150g ( 48"L x 24"D x 30"H ) salt
swim tank with 2" sand substrate and about 20 mollies. I should
also mention that I live in AZ where my summer tank temp is 74-75
degrees. I currently have a simple old fluor. strip light. Nothing to
get too excited about as we are moving SLOWLY. I would like to make
this tank into a reef tank and am VERY confused about which lighting is
right for my specific tank needs. I would prefer to avoid a hanging set
up as opposed to a top mounting set up due to tank location. I just do
not want to be limited later in what I can put in my tank because I
didn't go for enough lighting now.
Soooo, that being said, please point me to one specific light fixture,
no holds barred, that I will be happy with forever, no regrets, so I
can check this box and move on!!!
<Well, if this were my tank I would forget about MH all together and
look towards T5s. Something like this:
For MH you will want a dual 250 watt setup for a 30" deep tank,
The T5's will allow you to keep what you want while keeping your
tank cooler, less of a chance for needing a chiller in the
<Welcome, Scott V.>
Re: Metal Halide Migraine
Thank you SOOO much for your infinite wisdom. I attempted to go to the
premium aquatics website to look at the T5s you recommended but it got
me an error message. Could you redirect me? Again, thank you for your
help. I am sure it will save me costly mistakes in the future!
<Ah, what a pain, eh? Here they are again on their own separate
lines...funny the links do not work. I am sending you this via my
personal email too. Maybe the HTML encoding will help. Welcome, Scott
Halide lighting decision
I have read over your site every time I have a question, and usually
it's answered by reading the questions of others or the insightful
articles, but I am not quite sure about this one. (I am sorry if this
is somewhere else, but I couldn't find it).
<OK, no problem.>
I am planning on upgrading to a 150 gallon tank (currently I have a 55
gallon). I only have PC lights on my 55 gallon (4 65 Watt bulbs - two
10,000K and two actinic) and as such I only keep a few softies,
mushrooms, and a hardy LPS. They are all doing well, but I am
researching MH lights and I'm not sure how many and of what wattage
to put on my tank. I am looking to get a 4' 150 gallon, so it will
be about 2.5' deep. I want to keep similar corals, maybe adding
some more LPS and zoos. In the distant future I might want to get into
SPS, but not with my current inhabitants. My question is this: I am
looking at two different
fixtures, one is 2 x 250 watt MH with a 4 x 54 watt T5 (I don't
know if I 'need' the T5s, but I like the aesthetics).
<They are a nice addition.>
The other is 2 x 400 watt MH with a 96 watt PC bulb. Do you think the 2
x 400 watt fixture
is too much for the tank?
I'm just worried about the amount because the tank is fairly deep.
Also if this was your tank, could you think
of something else that would be more optimal? So would the 2 x 250 be
appropriate for my current inhabitants but would I want the 400 watt
fixture if I wanted to keep SPS in the future?
<Na, the 250's will do in either case....do also just consider a
T5 fixture. You can keep SPS with T5s very easily and it will save you
cash on power for lighting and cooling the tank.>
Thanks in advance for the great advice!
<Welcome, Scott V.>
Metal Halide Query Not Posted In
Today's Dailies 3/31/2009
Hope you left a few bottles of beer in Coz for others to enjoy.
Yesterday, I answered a query concerning problems with lamp replacement
and a ballast problem and see it was not posted today. I answered and
deleted as normal.
<QUICK, like a lagomorph, check the DELETED files on the mail site
for WWM... I did not see this in the SENT folder... may well be in the
If so... send back to the SENT. B>
Lost Metal Halide Query
Now you want me to assimilate the speed of a rat at my age. Nothing
I just saw that I received a response from the gent I got the query
Will answer sometime today and delete which should allow you to post
Unless I'm in a time warp,
<I assure you we are>
I just do not recall seeing the query. It's in my inbox if you care
to take a look. You are a few years younger than me and might remember
<Doubtful. Be chatting, B>
Metal Halide questions--help asap 3/30/09
<James, this was posted ayer. RMF>
Please help ASAP!
I am still new to reefkeeping and am having a problem. First of all, I
heard that MH lighting was the best. I have a 55 gallon tank, so I
found a used MH fixture online used at a very decent price. The fixture
isn't labeled anywhere so I am not 100% sure of the brand.
The fixture is 48" long, and contains 2 250W MH double ended
bulbs. The outer edges are actinic bulbs, and down the center led
moonlights are. My tank has been running wonderfully for around 8
months and mixed soft and hard corals, along with fish have thrived. Is
it too much light though for the tank?
<I little overkill for a 55, but for keeping light loving
corals/clams, should not be a problem as long as your tank temperature
isn't going through the roof.>
The bulbs are labeled 20K blue 250W. I was told the fixture was a
Now for the problem. A few days ago 1 of the lights went out. So I
attempted to narrow down the cause to ballast or bulb. I unplugged the
working light and hooked up the ballast to the none working light.
Nothing. So narrowing it down I have isolated the problem to be bad
bulb on one side.
To confirm this I attempted as many combinations of hookups. No matter
which ballast was hooked up. Only the same light would work. So I order
a bulb online. I order a CoralVue 14k 250W double ended bulb,
disassemble and install the bulb. Still nothing. So I pull out the bulb
that was working before, put in the brand new bulb, and again nothing.
I swapped and tried every combination I could.
Results--1 bulb working in both fixtures with both ballasts. Bulb would
light up almost immediately.
New bulb, & other bulb--would not work in either fixture.
<Well, one bulb was gone to start with and I'm guessing your
problem may lie with the new CoralVue lamp being a probe start type
lamp, and your ballast is a pulse start.
Most 250 watt DE lamps are pulse start. Pulse start lamps do not have a
starting probe electrode as in the CoralVue, but start by way of a high
voltage pulse, typically 3 to 5 kilovolts.>
I've got records on most bulbs that indicate the start method and
type of ballast required, but CoralVue is just listed as a ? but it is
a probe start lamp. Problem here is most folks think any HQI lamp will
work with their ballast and that is not the case.>
So I thought I would just leave 1 working for now, and I put it back
together, set it atop the tank. Roughly 3 minutes later the working
<Didn't like that.>
Now all I have is my actinics running, with a lot of livestock in the
How long until I get this fixed before I have major die off?
<To be safe, I'd say a week for light loving SPS/LPS. Could be
longer, but I wouldn't want to chance the Zooanthellae dying off
which is called bleaching. I am assuming you have corals and as the
fish without light, it isn't going to be a problem.>
What do I do? Is it possible the ballasts are too weak to light the
The ballasts do not have labels, they are encased in metal with a
switch, and removable power cable.
<Is there a manufacturer listed on the old lamp itself? If so,
replacing with that brand/type would ensure you would have had the
right lamp for the ballast you have. There are no numbers stamped on
the ballast itself, like an "M" and a number? Best to take
the fixture to a local electrical shop and see if they can test the
ballasts for you before investing in more lamps.>
Help Help help! I can give more details.
Thanks for your time.
<You're welcome you poor dude. James (Salty Dog)>
Re Metal Halide questions--help asap
Please help ASAP!
Thanks for the response.
More research done yesterday. Found out my fixture is an Odessa
From the forum discussions this a terrible and cheap fixture.
The recommendation is that the stock ballasts with the unit only have
enough power to push maybe 160W. Everything I have read recommends
updating the ballasts.
So yesterday I ordered 2 Icecap 250W ballasts. Another $260 investment.
I really really really hope this works, and the Icecap will power the
new 14K CoralVue bulb.
<Ice Cap does state this ballast will power any 250 watt MH lamp, so
you should be good to go.>
I plan--if it works, to light up 1/2 the tank with the new bulb, more
the light loving coral there. Then order another bulb for the other
side of the fixture.
Do you recommend using the same type and k-value bulbs for the whole
Or for example can I have a 14K on one side and a 10K on the other
<No problem doing this, but I think you will not like the
I have been forced to learn a lot quickly and your advice is greatly
<You are welcome my friend.>
With my case of too big light for shallow tank, what K bulb and brand
would you recommend? Should I move soft coral to one side and hard to
<No, I'd just go with two 14K lamps. I use Corallife lamps
myself but I'm not saying they are the best out there, I just
happen to like their 14K look. All 14K or other temperature lamps for
that matter will not necessarily look the same as far as color
appearance goes, some may be slightly lighter and some slightly darker
in the blue range.>
Livestock consists of:
2 toadstool leathers?
many types mushrooms
many types of polyps
hard/stony coral--not sure which kinds.
1 Clarkii clown
2- percula clowns
4- blue damsels
2- peppermint shrimp
2- brittle starfish
Your help is greatly appreciated.
<Again, you're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
MH Retrofit 3/20/09
<Hi there Kiet.>
I am interested in purchasing a MH retrofit for my 125 gallon. I saw a
pretty good deal online for one made by a company called Captive Sun. I
was wondering if you have heard of this company or any experience with
<I have, fine stuff.>
Their 72 in retrofits includes 3 metal halide moguls and a setup for
160 watt VHO bulbs rather than the standard 96 watt PCs.
<I personally prefer VHO actinics over PCs.>
Also, with my tank (6 ft long), I should go with the 3 moguls and
opposed to the 2 right?
<Would be better, yes.>
<Welcome, Scott V.>
Re: Lighting Question, MH... 55 gal., SW,
waste heat concern I'm so very
sorry to bother you again, but I have run across more conflicting info
in the FAQ's and have another question. <No worries, Matt. This
is why we're here.> Since my tank is a standard 55gal, would
metal halide lighting be too hot and burn everything up? I have seen
that it is recommended not to use MH lighting on a 55gal tank, but have
also seem recommendations to use 2 150 watt MH pendants above this same
setup. All of this conflicting info is starting to get confusing to me.
Any input would be greatly appreciated. If the 2 pendants would be
fine, how far above the tank should I keep them to minimize evaporation
and bleaching of my corals? <First, let me preface this by reminding
you that every set up is different. So, just because someone had heat
issues with MH lighting over a 55gal that does not mean your set up
will as well. Whether your tank will overheat depends on several
factors. First, what is the highest temperature your tank has reached
with your current lighting method? If it is in the upper levels of the
acceptable range, then you should consider using more efficient
equipment (such as cooler running return pumps or circulation
powerheads) and/or increase cooling (by adding a chiller or fans)
before upgrading to MH. Second, not all MH setups are the same as some
are terribly inefficient. Consider going with a proper MH set up with a
quality electronic ballast like the Icecap 150W ballast and bulb like
the Phoenix 14k to maximize efficiency. Review this site for more
information on efficiency: http://www.manhattanreefs.com/lighting. For
reference, I live in Southern California where ambient temperatures can
be quite high in the summer and I am able to hang a 150W MH set up
12" over my 24 gallon Nano Cube. I use a fan to blow cool air over
the water surface to increase evaporative cooling and water temperature
is table at 80-81 degrees even on the hottest days.> Thanks again
Matt <You're welcome. Cheers, Minh Huynh.>
Metal halide fixtures
9/29/08 Maybe I overlooked it, as well as undereducated in
some aspects, but can metal halide ballasts and hoods made for growing
plants indoors (hydroponic farms) be used with different bulbs over
aquariums? <Mmm, with some provisos, yes...> The reason I ask is
that I have come across a place where I can get some 400w metal halide
ballasts and hoods for a ridiculously cheap price. <Well... can you
really use such high energy use, waste heat producing units?> I
don't have any experience with metal halide systems, but am
researching them for my new 150g <Mmm, not likely a good idea
here... too high wattage for this size, depth... more downsides than
use... I would stick with 250 Watt or less units> reef tank that I
have and am still in the process of setting up - my 3rd reef tank. Are
there specific bulb sizes I should make sure the ballasts accept?
<Oh yes...> Thanks for any insight. <Mmm... and issues re
water- and splash-proofing... the long and short of this, by and large
I would use only "aquarium intended fixtures". Read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm the last couple of trays. Bob
Using Metal Halides 1/24/08 I
just purchased an 48" Outer Orbit 2 150 watt 10 K HQI-MH w 2 130
watt 6 Lunar lights. I have a 90 gallon 24" deep aquarium. I had a
nova extreme t-5 54 watt x 8. I didn't have very good luck with it
staying on after about 6 months. <Not good.> I have my tank
stocked with some fish and a few corals which consist of a torch coral,
a colt coral, a toadstool and some mushrooms. I have it hanging 6"
above my tank right now. Is that enough or should I raise it more and
to what height? <Sounds like a good distance, you can always raise
it a bit if you have temperature issues.> I would like to start
raising a clam or two and some more stony corals. <Will be fine, I
would try to place the clams (especially Maximas or Croceas) in the
upper half of the tank.> Thanks for your help crew, Bob L.
<Welcome, happy reefing, Scott V.>
MH lighting for a 125gal 6' long
tank 11/5/07 Dear WWM crew, First of all thanks for your continued
excellent support for the reef keeping community. Keep up the good
work. <Thank you Isaac.> Now onto my question, I'm moving
from a 37gal FOWLR tank to a 125gal reef, that is a 6 foot long tank. I
will be keeping mostly LPS corals and clams. Don't know if I want
to keep SPS, most likely not. Now comes my lighting dilemma. Since the
tank has a big ugly brace right smack in the middle, if I get 3x 175W
MH lights will the middle light be blocked out and mostly wasted?
<The light is still very usable, although not quite as intense. You
will need to clean the center brace periodically, it will make a big
difference in light penetration.> (I'm not interested in
designing and making my own hood, so I will only get pre-made ones.)
The other option is I could get 2x 250W (in pendants, possibly going
with PFO), but obviously this will exceed the commonly suggested 2 feet
of linear tank length per MH bulb. <I have seen this done with this
particular sized tank. It works, but you will have to stock the tank
accordingly considering that the center will have noticeably less
light. Just depends on the look you are after.> For the animals I
want to keep, is this going to be sufficient, not enough PAR or even
overkill (is even 2x 175W enough?). Besides tank inhabitant health and
growth, what about aesthetics? Will the 2x MH lights create too much
lapse? <It really depends on your personal taste. If you want the
tank to look uniform I would go with the 3 X 175W. This will be plenty
if stock you clams in the upper half of the tank.> P.S. Color temp
will be in the 10k-13k range. Thanks, Isaac <Happy reefing, Scott
SW Lighting, reading re MHs -
7/23/07 Dear WWM crew members, <Pedro> I appreciate all of
your wonderful support and knowledge. I have a question on metal halide
lighting for a 90 gal reef tank. If I wanted to keep SPS such as
acropora spp. would a 2x250watt 14k MH fixture 8"-9" from the
surface be too intense for the coral if placed in the upper half of the
tank? <Mmm, nope> Or knowing that the lighting fixture would be
8"-9" above the surface of the tank, would I be better off
having a 2x150watt MH? <Depends... you could "match" other
aspects of husbandry to the higher wattage fixtures... but if you
"had time", weren't interested in boosting metabolism...
You could get by easily with the 150's> If I had a 2x150w metal
halide fixture about 8-9 inches from the surface, would I still be able
to place corals anywhere in my tank? Please notify me ASAP. It would be
helpful if you guys/gals could tell me which is better, 2x150w or
2x250w for SPS and other corals. Peter <Please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/marsetupindex2.htm the tray at the bottom. Bob
Interchangeability Of Components Of
Coralife Aqualight Fixtures -- 07/19/07 I'm setting out on a
new adventure... a 180gal reef tank. <<Cool!>> It will
replace my 55-gal reef tank (all residents will eventually be
transplanted to the new, larger tank). I've worked out all the
details, pricing, etc... except for one thing. I have an opportunity to
get a great deal (less than half price) on a Coralife Aqualight Pro.
<<I see>> It's the 72" fixture with three 150W
10K's. <<Should do nicely>> The tank will have these
residents: Galaxea Pagoda Cup T. Crocea T. Derasa There are several
others, but these are the ones in need of the most light by far.
<<Okay>> Also, they would be kept high in the tank (except
the T. Derasa clam, he likes his sand). <<Indeed>>
Questions: 1) Will three 150W 10K's be enough? (My math says no
since that's only 2.5Wper gal). <<The 'watts per
gallon' logic for determining lighting requirements is really a
very poor method in my opinion. There are so many factors that
determine 'what is adequate'...e.g. water depth, water clarity,
requirements of the individual organisms, color temperature, feeding,
etc. If you were planning to keep shallow water Acroporids I would
suggest more wattage; and even then not because the corals couldn't
live under your planned configuration, but because I think they would
'color' better under the higher wattage lamps. But with what
you have listed, the 150W lamps w/10,000K bulbs will be fine>> 2)
If I take the two ballasts and bulbs from my current tank's
Coralife Aqualight Pro (48" fixture with two 250W 10K's and
ballasts to match), could I replace two of the 150W ballasts/bulbs with
the 250W ballasts/bulbs? <<You could...but you will also have to
change out the bulb brackets/holders as these for the differing
wattages are not compatible/interchangeable>> Are the internal
components of the fixtures compatible or would I burn something out?
<<Being from the same manufacturer it is highly likely they are
virtually identical on the inside but for the
ballasts/bulbs/brackets>> 3) If what I discussed in question 2 is
a possibility, would the resulting 650W total be enough for these
residents (3.6W per gal)? <<More than, yes>> If not, what
should I shoot for? Any brand/model recommendations? <<I think
you are fine with the 72' fixture mentioned>> Thanks so much!
~Eric <<Happy to assist. EricR>>
Re: pix of the day, magma MH use --
06/11/07 Very true, it does change weekly. I don't dare to
venture into the possibilities of next month. Off the top of your head,
do you think 2 400w MH and 2 110w VHO actinics are too much for a 75
gallon? <Yikes! Too hot (temp. and electrical cost) for me...> I
am wondering if I might be better off with what I already have. <For
now... BobF> MH Lighting Choices - 3/27/07 Hi there, You guys
are the best. <Thank you for this, my friend. JustinN with you
today.> I have a 125 gallon reef ready system. Live sand,
Live rock. Right now I just have a goby, cleaner shrimp, and
tomato clown. I am wanting to get into inverts, and corals.
I need a stronger lighting system. <Ok> I am looking
at a 785 watt. (3x175 MH and 2x130 watt blue actinic), or a 1134 watt
(3x250 MH, and 4 96 watt blue actinic) each with led
moonlights. Is there such a thing as overkill with
lighting? <Certainly> Which would you
recommend. They are both 72", and have external
ballasts. and about $150 difference. They are Odyssea
lights. I know it depends on what kind of corals, or inverts
I want to keep. <Bingo> But should I just go with the
bigger one and be able to support light for just about
anything. Is there any other tips you can give me on
lighting situations. This is my first adventure into
MH's. Thanks for any advice. Aaron <Well, Aaron, my
thought is that the 3x250w would be overkill. I have a good friend who
runs a 120g beautiful reef, and has lit it for over a year using the
2x175w solution that Odyssea offers with great success. Of the two
fixtures in question, I would likely go with the smaller. Less heat to
deal with, save yourself some money as well. Hope this helps!
-JustinN> Metal Halide size and T5 question
3/1/07 Hi, Larry here. <BobF here, hello> I have a standard
75g 48" reef tank with softies and a few LPS under PC
lighting. I want to make the jump to SPS and
clams. I have the opportunity to buy a MH fixture with
2x250w HQI MH's and 2x96w actinic PC's. Is this
going to be too much light for my softies an the 3 fish and shrimp in
the tank. <Mmm, can be acclimated to this amount, kind of light for
this size, shape system... either by elevating fixtures or using
screening likely... unless you have dimmable "ballasts">
I'm also concerned about the heat issue. I have
considered a fixture with dual 150w HQI MH with the 96w
PC's. Which do you recommend? <A tough one... as both
can/will work...> I can get the 250w fixture at a big discount. I
was also thinking about Nova extreme HO T5 fixture 432watts with 8x54w
T5 bulbs, 4x460nm actinics and 4x10,000k bulbs. Will the T5
lighting be enough for SPS and Clams? <It too could work> The
T5's are nice because you have so many lighting options because of
the 8 bulbs. They also generate less heat and the bulbs
supposedly don't have to be replaced as often. Thanks again for
your help. <Well... you do have a choice to make... Don't know
that sorting through the many articles and FAQs files on marine
light/ing on WWM will help here... If it were me/mine, and I
had any notion that I might one day upgrade to an even larger system...
I'd go with the 150 watt MH's. Bob Fenner>
Re: Metal Halide size and T5 question, Flagfin
angel dis./recovery 3/1/07 Thanks Bob for the prompt reply,
<Welcome Larry> I think I'm going to go with the 150 HQI due
to heat issues. I just needed to make sure that I could keep SPS and
clams. <Ahh, this would be my choice as well> I'd like to
share a success story with you about a sick fish since you here so many
failures by hobbyists. <Please do> I have had a beautiful Flag
Fin angel for 3 years. It became ill when one of my older
fish died and I didn't find out till 2 days later. The
angel developed bilateral cloud eye, fin rot, hemorrhagic patches on
both sides of its abdomen and mouth. I immediately place it in my QT
tank. It progressed very rapidly and the fish just labored at the top
of the tank. It was literally knocking at deaths door and I thought
about euthanizing it. I started treatment right away with 2
antibiotics, penicillin and furan along with every other day FW and
methylene blue dips and every other day water changes to my QT
tank. Well now I call the angel the miracle
fish. Its almost back to normal except for some residual
damage to one eye. This fish did not eat for 12 days and now its
swimming around the tank and just starting to peck at
food. Its not completely out of the woods yet, but if it
starts to eat again I just may get lucky. <Yes... your diligence has
paid well> By the way, I'm a emergency medicine physician
and my wife and friends are calling me the fish doctor. Have
a great day and thanks for the help. Larry <A good title.
MH Upgrade...Options/Considerations -
01/18/07 Thanks for all the help over the past few years!!!
<<Has been a pleasure to assist>> I am running (4) 65 Watt
PC bulbs, two 10,000K bulbs and two Blue actinic. <<Ok>> I
have a few LPS and mushrooms and about 6 fish in a 100 gallon tank.
<<Mmm, this lighting seems a bit "weak" to me for this
size tank...even considering the livestock you have>> The tank
has about 100lbs of live rock and my sand bed is about 3-4"
deep. My tank size is 23" tall by about 60" wide
and about 18" deep. I want to add MH lights to this
aquarium and add SPS, but probably no clams. <<Okay...do think to
acclimate your livestock to the new/more intense lighting when you do
this. Have a read here beforehand: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/acclimcoralslight.htm >> I
was wondering if running (2) 250watt MH bulbs with 10K to 14K bulbs
would be enough, or should I keep a set (2 bulbs) with 65watt actinic
also with this set-up? <<The halides in either Kelvin temperature
would be fine on their own, but many folks opt to keep actinics in
their tanks as well to enhance the "glow" of their
corals...and for my use, they're handy for "softening the
blow" when the halides go out at the end of the day when set to
come on a bit before, and go off a bit after, the main lights>> I
have a chiller that I have not hooked-up yet, but it is available.
<<Very good...though not always a necessity>> Is 250watts
too much, or would 175watts be better? <<Depends much on the
particular needs of the livestock you will ultimately have, as well as
depth of placement re, water clarity, even what Kelvin temperature/bulb
type/bulb manufacturer you choose. The 175-watt, and even
150-watt halides would probably suffice for most instances...but I
would likely choose the 250-watt halides myself for this tank just for
the added flexibility (wider range of intensity available by adjusting
the fixture up/down)>> Also, how high should I place the bulbs
over the tank? <<Usually 8" - 12", also dependent upon
the factors already mentioned for wattage selection>> I want to
put them in my enclosed hood as a retro fit. <<Mmm, I see...that
may change my thoughts then. In my experience enclosed hoods
with metal halide lighting are quite limiting. The distance
between the water and the bulb is usually "fixed" and often
quite close...exacerbating the issues of excess heat, mineral buildup
in the bulbs or UV filters, even bulb breakage from splashed
water. Not to mention ventilation is usually not the
best...especially if the hood was not originally "designed"
for metal halides bulbs. I'm not trying to discourage
you from making this change/modification...just wanting to make you
aware of the challenges re. With these considerations in
mind, the lower wattages might be the better choice>> The hood
has fans, so heat should not be a problem. <<You'd be
surprised...do consider adding extra fans or openings for additional
air flow>> I just don't want to burn the other corals.
<<Acclimate them as explained in the article I referenced you to
read>> Also, how long should I run the lights during the day and
how long to run them for acclimation purposes? <<Anything between
10 - 14 hours per day should be ok...I tend to run mine at the longer
end of the spectrum (six bulbs on for 11-hours individually but with
30-minutes between sequenced on/off timers...13 1/2 hours from the time
the first halide comes on till the last goes off) Also, these are
one-sided bulbs and not double-ended bulbs so I was wondering also if I
should place them perpendicular or parallel to the tank? <<Ah,
okay...so probably the 175-watters then. Parallel to the
tank/hood is the most common installation here. Two bulbs
will be "stretching it" as far light coverage goes, depending
on the quality of the reflector in the hood and the ultimate distance
from the water's surface of the bulbs you may find you need three
bulbs for adequate coverage/an even "look">> Thanks,
Jeromy <<Quite welcome. Eric
MH lighting, mis-stocking in a too small SW
system 11/19/06 I am trying to make sense
out of what I am about to say to you guys, <Appreciated> anyways
I recently purchased a second 150 watt energy savers unlimited tank
mount metal halide because one did not cover my entire 58 gallon reef
tank. The occupants are a golden angel, <Mmm... aurantius? Needs
much more room> two percula clowns, yellow goby, and a dwarf hog.
Coral are elegance, <Dangerous to crowd, have in small volumes>
hammer, mushrooms, xenia, and a toadstool, <Do be diligent here re
water changes, switching out chemical filtrants... I would not add any
other invertebrate life.> there's 300 watts of light total and
for one thing it seems to be to much for the angelfish, <Yes... I
would only use one such fixture here> also my electric bill is going
up more than I thought it would, <You are wise to be aware here>
so I was thinking instead of buying a new set of lighting could I
reduce the length of time the lights are on right now its about nine
hours a day, or could I get away with just using one halide and
centering it, <This is what I would do> that would give me 150
watts of light. I also forgot to mention that there is a rose bubble
anemone in the tank, Thanks Ron <... you should take the time to
read re each of these listed species "Systems",
"Compatibility"... on WWM... some potential disaster looming.
Re: MH lighting, mis-stocking in a too small SW
system 11/20/06 After writing to you I am considering taking
some animals out whats the logical move Thanks Ron. <To read as
you've been instructed... determine "who stings who"
most... what you'd like to, can keep together. BobF>
Photo-Shock? - 10/29/06 Good
Morning... or afternoon, or evening, whatever it may be.
<<Hello...morning now>> I am in a real mental pinch here
with my halides and looking for a shoulder to lean on (hopefully not
cry on). <<Let's see if I can be of assistance...>> I
think I goofed big time, but then again, it's reef keeping so
before I jump into trying to fix things, I thought I would ask someone
with a little more experience first. <<Ah yes...go slow and
research/analyze your options whenever possible>> Here is the
skinny. I just undertook a two-month project to build my
dream system. <<Only two months? <grin> >> Got the
okay from the wife and took the plunge. <<An "always
important" component>> I had a 105G tall (32"-deep X
48"-long) for three years with a 30G sump/fuge combo. I
keep acros mostly, <<'¦me too>> and have around 18
different species as well as a few other SPS, a rose bubble, and a
Crocea. <<Ack! You were doing so well up until the
anemone...>> In my 32" tank I had 2X400W halides about
10" off the water and life was good. <<A lot of
light>> Currently I have framed a 125G (6 foot long X 22"
deep) display into a wall and made a 12X6 foot support room behind it.
<<Cool! Love "in-wall" displays (is what I
have)>> The display has a 100g sump, 75g refugium, 30g prop tank,
and I even got to tie in my 30g anemonarium which was really great.
<<Lots of water volume...excellent>> I drip Kalk 24/7, dose
2ml of iodide daily, and maintain a daily avg of: 425 CA, 9 DKH, 1.026
SG, 8.28 - 8.36 pH, 79.3 - 79.6 degrees, 0 nitrates, 0 PO4.
<<Very good>> I use RO/DI that I aerate/buffer as needed
and change 20G of water every Sunday. I am very happy with
my parameters, however I am not so happy with my corals.
<<...!>> Since I had the 2X400W halides from my deep tank,
I just picked up another reflector/ballast/bulb and am now using 3X400W
halides over my 125G display, which is only 22" deep.
<<Mmm...>> I had the halides at 10ish-inches from the water
surface that I now realize, or think at least was way too close and
have moved them to 16. <<Indeed'¦the corals could have
been/can be "acclimated" to the light intensity, but this
would need to be a "gradual" process. The
organisms we keep are quite adaptable...but they don't usually
handle "rapid" changes well>> I have noticed that my
Pocillopora and a couple of Acros that made the transition have started
to lose their rich color for a more "watery"
color. Some red/pinks are fading to white, blues have gone
pale, my rose bubble just sticks a couple of tentacles out of a crack
in a rock, etc. Nothing is bleached; they are just not how
they should be. <<Does sound like photo-shock>> At first I
thought the color change was because I switched from XM 20Ks to Radiums
when I setup the new system, however I noticed that my best colored
coral is a purple-rim/green M. capricornis that sits almost directly
under the center brace. Also the more I have been reading on
WWM the more I think that the power/distance is the real culprit.
<<...?>> To cut to the chase here, am I "making
lava" as Anthony calls it, keeping the 400s? <<400-watt
halides are definitely more light than you need on a 22"-tank, but
by raising the fixtures/acclimating the organisms it can be
utilized>> Should I downgrade to 250, or do you think that the
400 at a higher set point will be all right? <<Downsizing the
lighting will be cheaper to run/less excess-heat hassles...but the
400-watt lighting can be used as stated>> Perhaps I have missed
the boat entirely and you think that something else might be going on?
<<This too is a possibility, or at least a
contributor...reactions to changes in water chemistry, feeding,
additives, or just being moved/repositioned in the new
system. But I think the lighting (due to lack of proper
acclimation re) is likely the main cause for the changes in
color/behavior you describe>> I am all ears and can't even
begin to tell you how much I appreciate your time to read this
long-winded email and already feel better knowing that one of you at
WWM is going to chime in on this issue. <<No worries mate...is
what we do. Have a peek here re acclimating your corals to
the new lighting: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/acclimcoralslight.htm>>
Again, all my gratitude, have a good morning/day/night =) Jeff
<<Happy to share. EricR>>
LIGHTING CHANGE Short and simple,
crew. I currently have 360 watts of
Comp Fluorescents over a 90 gallon. I am
interested in a 2 x 250w, 10,000K Halides, with 2 x 96w
actinics. Is it too much, would I be better off
with 175's? <Simple answer is that it depends on what
you want to do with the lights, what animals you wish to keep.
|Wanting to downgrade lighting Hi Bob, <<
Blundell today. >> I have a 36"L x 18"W x 30"H
tank with 5" DSB. Planning to change my 2 x 250W SE MH lights
to something else due to the high electricity consumption and heat
contributed by the Metal halides. Would like to find out what other
alternatives do I have in order to meet the minimum requirements of
a 30" depth with mostly SPS at the top and LPS at the bottom /
middle portion of the tank. << I wouldn't down grade your
lights. Pricey as it may be, that sounds like good
lighting. If anything I'd switch to 150 watt double
ended but I'd still rather have your two 250 watt. >>
p/s: I have attached a photo of my tank, hope it helps. Thanks for
your precious time, James
<< Blundell >>
Ideal halide Kelvin rating? Hi bob, <<
Blundell here. >> I'm using 2 x 250W 20K BLV now, I
love the soothing lightings & colours of the corals shown
under it but I notice the PAR might not be strong enough to reach
the corals at the tank bottom and also the Acros are not growing
as fast. << Yes I have that exact type of lighting and
problem. I really like the 20k look but the amount of
visual light given off is just way too low. >> Have tried
the 10K before, love the growth and PAR but dislike the bright
whiteness of the light and also the corals ain't that
colourful when compare with the 20K bulbs. Pls give me your
advice. << You asked the right person. I've
been looking into this heavily and have decided (for the time
being) that the Aqualine Busch bulbs are probably the
best. But the brand name is only somewhat important,
the main key (to looks and growth) I think is probably the new
line of 14k's now on the market. That is what
I'm switching to. However, 10k's with
supplemental actinics is really nice as well. >> regards,
James << Blundell >>