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FAQs on Chemically/Physically Injecting Aiptasia Anemones 2

Related FAQs:  Chemical Injection 1, Aiptasia/Glass Anemones in General, Aiptasia Identification, Eradication by: Berghia Nudibranchs, Peppermint Shrimp, Butterflyfishes, FilefishesHypo/Hyper-Salinity.

Related Articles: Aiptasia/Glass Anemones, Impressions of Methods to Eliminate Pest Anemones by Steven Pro, Aquarium Culture of the Aeolid nudibranch Berghia, Predator on the nuisance anemone Aiptasia By Anthony Calfo, Anemones, Cnidarians

NaOH, Lemon Juice, Commercial Chemical Prep.s...

Thank you so much! and Aiptasia Removal 03/06/2008
Hi,
<<G'Morning, Andrew today>>
I am so sorry to take this direct route and not research more so please forgive me.
<<tut tut>>
I have a reef/salt water fish tank which I love so much!! I have had it for 4 years. I now have an invasion of Aiptasia. UGH!!! I tried peppermint shrimp but they got eaten. I want to try the lemon juice injection(?) Here is my question.... What is the best way to go about this? Do I inject tons of them at once or just a couple a day? Do I do a big water change after? Does this hurt my fish or my good corals?
<<There are various methods used to rid a tank of Aiptasia. Inject a could at a time using the Joe's juice method. Most, on this route, use a hypodermic needle and inject the lemon juice into the nem. Another alternative is to fill a syringe up with boiling water and blast the nem directly and not have to worry about adding too much juice to the tank. Read more here http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/aiptasia/aiptasia.htm >>
I have a 55 gallon tank. My corals are torch, button polyps, brain, plate, sun polyps, mushrooms, toadstool, leather, frogs spawn, and candy! My fish are tang, wrasse, mandarin, damsel, fairy Basslet, blenny, chromis, and clown.
<<I would suggest a bigger home for the tang, they fair better in larger aquariums more suited to their swimming needs>>
Thank you so very much for taking the time to respond to me. My son is coming home this weekend and he is in his first year of college studying marine biology and I am feeling embarrassed about my mess in the tank!! Veronica Smead
<<No need to feel embarrassed, your amongst friends here. Hope the above helps. A Nixon>>

Tree Coral Health; Nephtheid "juiced" along with Glass Anemones   7/31/07
Dear Crew,
<Andy>
I have a question about my small tree coral. It was sold to me as a "tree coral", so I'm not exactly sure what it is--I have searched for images of similar corals, and I'm pretty sure that it of the genus Capnella. "It" is actually two corals--two individual 3" trunks attached to one piece of base rock--and have a pink fleshy look, with darker pink polyps.
<This genus does occur in a wide range of light colors/hues>
I have had them in my tank for over a month and they have been doing very well. Fully extended during daylight, shrunk up a bit at night. Last week, I killed off small four Aiptasia that were within about 10" of the coral with Joes Juice. Although I was very careful with my targeted injection, a small amount of Joes Juice did become free-floating due to the pressure of submersion. Ever since that date, my tree coal has been completely retracted---I can send a picture if you need one, but basically they are just two tightly-packed "lumps".
<No pix needed>
They have been in this state for about 5 days now. They are producing no mucous, and they are not changing color or otherwise showing signs of disintegration. At the time of application of Joes Juice, they were perched on a ledge of rock--maybe slightly shaded, but not much--at about the 1/2 way point of my tank. About 3 days ago, while they were still totally retracted, I decided to move them up about 5" so that they could get more flow (thinking that if they are reacting to the Joes Juice, the flow might help "clear the air")--the consequences of this movement are that they are a little higher up and in full lighting.
Other than the application of Joes Juice, I have done nothing new to the tank (other than normal maintenance)--no new livestock, rock, or any other addition.
Now about my tank/lighting. Tank/lighting: 110g display (48" long x 30" high x 18" deep) with 30g refugium; 6 x 54W T5 HO (4 10,000K and 2 460nm actinics); wet-dry filter; Coral Life 125g Super Skimmer; 2 MaxiJet 1200 power heads; and return flow from Little Giant 1245 gph pump. Display livestock: 70lbs live rock, 1 Sailfin Tang, 1 Gold Stripe Maroon, 1 Atrosalarias fuscus, and 1 Royal Gramma, 5 green hairy mushrooms, 5 red mushrooms, 1 BTA,
<This animal is stationary, open, has room about it?>
the 2 tree corals noted above, 12 snails, 24 hermits, 2 cleaner shrimp; 2 Sally Lightfoot Crabs; and 1 small decorator crab that came in with my live rock. Refugium has 4-6" DSB, 3.5lbs of live rock, and a large piece of Chaeto, with lighting on a reverse daylight cycle. My parameters: Ammonia, nitrite, nitrate all 0; alk is 3.5 meq/L; calcium ranges from 350-400; phosphate is 0; temperature 78*-80*. Daily top-off and 10% weekly water changes, both using buffered RO/DI water. The only supplements I add are Kent Marine Tech CB Parts A/B daily/as needed and Kent Marine iodine (6 drops daily).
<... Do you test for this last? I would not apply it daily... perhaps weekly w/ water changes>
The tree corals are on the far left side of my tank; the BTA is in the middle at the bottom, and the two colonies of shrooms are on the right side of my tank. Because everyone has gotten along for over 1 month, I am pretty sure that there is sufficient space between all corals such that there is no significant chemical warfare going on. I do run activated carbon in my sump, which I change every 3-4 weeks.
<Okay>
I am worried that the small amount of Joes Juice that may have made contact with the tree coral has really irked them, but I would have thought that it would have gotten over this by now?
<Mmm, apparently not>
Two other thoughts. First, I'm thinking that my decorator crab has attacked them. The other day I noticed that, in addition to the pieces of orange sponge that he walks around with, it appears that he has decided to add some polyps to his portfolio. These polyps look like they "might" have come from my tree coral (as I don't have any other similar coral in the tank, that's the only thing I can think of).
<It's mainly the "juice">
Second, I do not target feed any of my corals. I realize that the mushrooms rely primarily on zooxanthellae. I guess I was thinking that my fuge coupled with daily feeding of Mysid to my fish would supply food to the tree corals, but maybe I am wrong. Am I starving my tree coral (and, if so, any suggestions on a good food product)?
<See WWM, the Net... should be fed every other day... HUFA's...>
Wouldn't a starving coral degenerate slowly and, in fact, remain extended looking for food?
<Mmm, generally so, yes>
If this is the case, how can I get this coral to re-extend so I can feed it?
Any thoughts you have are appreciated.
Andy
<Give up the juice. Bob Fenner>

Re: Tree Coral Health  7/31/07
Thanks for the response, Bob. Tree corals have since recovered.
<Ah, good. RMF>

ORP Fluctuations/Aiptasia Infestation Controls - 06/04/07
Hi Crew!
<<Hiya Roger!>>
180g main tank w/55gal sump/refugium, ASM 300 skimmer, 170 lbs LR, 4" sand bed in main tank. Softies and LPS w/2 small frags of Acropora and Pocillopora. 4 Yellowtail Blue Damsels, 1 large Siganus vulpinus, 1 Ctenochaetus strigosus, 1 Gramma loreto, 1 Pink Spotted Shrimp Goby, 2 Engineer Gobies, 2 Black Axel Chromis. 1 Midas Blenny. 1 Large Lysmata amboinensis. Astrea Snails and various hermits, also 2, 2" Fighting Conchs. 6 80w T5's. I use Salifert for my water testing to confirm any test for which I don't trust the results.
<<Very good>>
Hagen, Aquarium Pharmaceuticals & Red Sea, are my routine test
kits.
<<Mmm...I hope you are using the Salifert kits regularly>>
Calcium 450, KH 9-10, NO2 "0", NO3 "0" pH 8.3, and Temp 80 F. I have an ORP monitor that reads 425 - 450 overnight.
<<You are administering ozone then? Be careful this reading doesn’t go higher>>
When I add food soaked with Selcon the ORP drops rapidly into the high 300's.
<<Not at all unusual...>>
I have checked the ORP probe with calibration fluid and it goes perfectly to 400.
<<Nothing wrong with the probe here...the drop is related/a reaction to the addition of organic material (food, Selcon) to the water column...and a good example of how the REDOX meter can be used to monitor water quality>>
My FO tank also has an ORP monitor and I have switched them, with the same result. Is this dangerous to my creatures?
<<Not in my experience...as indicated, ORP levels fluctuate continuously in relation to water chemistry...and to be honest, readings in the “high 300s” are still very good/quite acceptable>>
Visually, everyone is doing well and actually growing! I feed Zooplan, Marine Snow, Phytoplan, enriched live brine shrimp, and Omega One flake soaked in Selcon or Kent Marine Zoe, alternatively.
<<Do be cautious of overuse of the invertebrate foods...and for your fishes sake expand their diet a bit with some vegetable matter for the Tang and the Foxface, and I highly recommend the addition of New Life Spectrum pellets for all>>
I have your book, Bob!
<<Is an excellent read>>
Second question. I also have an Aiptasia problem.
<<A very common malady>>
I feel my water quality is good and my tank is 10 mos. old.
<<Good water - bad water...has little to do with the Aiptasia...these organisms don’t even need light. The problems encountered with Aiptasia stem from their mere introduction to the system...and an adequate food source (reflect on my previous comment re the invertebrate foods)>>
Many pods, etc. seen on a regular basis. I know there are no absolutes, but do you think a Copperband would be worth a try?
<<This is a possibility, though they seem to prefer young/emergent Aiptasia as opposed to lager specimens, in my experience>>
If not, what would you suggest?
<<You can try the Copperband as a biological “control,” even a few Atlantic Peppermint Shrimp...but these only address the “symptoms” of the infestation and not the cure. Sometimes this proves to be enough...ofttimes not...>>
Have tried Joe's Juice w/the same results as most of your correspondents? It kills, but babies pop up in bigger numbers.
<<I have never used this product, but I have used Lemon Juice injected in to the oral disc with good result>>
I very much appreciated your advice on a previous question about angels & you prevented me from making a big mistake; from a responsibility to the environment standpoint and from a responsible aquarist standpoint.
<<Don’t know who that was, but it is good to hear they were able to help>>
Any guidance will be most appreciated. It seems as if Copperbands get good reviews in your threads, if they fit a system.
<<Ah yes, your last statement is “key.” These are not “easy” fish to acclimate/keep...very susceptible to disease/poor water quality, and often difficult to get to eat. If you try this fish, be sure to get one that is feeding on something other than brine shrimp...frozen Mysids/Mysis preferably>>
Thanks again!
<<Happy to assist>>
Roger Tisdale from the backwoods of South Carolina!
<<Backwoods, forewoods, sidewoods...heck Roger, it’s “all woods” around this state! [grin] Eric Russell in Columbia, SC>>

Joes Juice for Aiptasia Control Versus BTA, Entacmaea quadricolor - 2/4/07
Hello,
<Hi Sharon, Brenda here>
I have 3 BTAs and an Aiptasia problem. Before using Joe’s Juice, I would like to know if this will harm the BTAs.
<There is mixed results with Joe’s Juice for Aiptasia control.  To answer your question, too much at once may harm your BTA.  If you choose this route, I would not use it near your BTA.  Start out slow and watch your livestock closely.>
My first thought was to move the infested rock to a bucket filled with saltwater and zap them there, but all of my rock can be removed. Help!
<An alternative that I have used is Peppermint Shrimp, Lysmata Wurdemanni. Unfortunately others have had mixed results with Peppermint Shrimp.  There is more information on both here:  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/cav1i3/aiptasia_impressions/aiptaisia_impressions.htm >
Sharon
<Hope this helps.  Brenda>

Re: Aiptasia (sorry I know you get a lot of these emails), Blue Line product  - 08/15/06
  Thank you very much for the response.  I have read all the material you suggested and have decided that the Berghia sounds like the best option.  First I will try to eliminate using Kalkwasser, or Joe's Juice (By the way there is a new product available from Blue Line called Aiptasia control, so far the only place we at the LFS can get it is at Sea Dwelling Creatures, I find this works better than Joe's Juice, knocks them down for good in one shot),
<Thank you for this input>
although I don't like adding chemicals when I don't know what they are.  Just to be sure, you wouldn't recommend a Raccoon Butterfly in a reef tank, would you?
<Depending on the size of the system, what other livestock there was...>
Thanks again for putting up with my never ending supply of questions, Ryan.
<No worries. Bob Fenner>

Aiptasia Control...In Your Face, Man   6/16/06
Had an Aiptasia growing near a nice clump of frog spawn in a tight spot.
I hate the look and general attitude of these little guys. I bought a small syringe and needle at Walgreen's (30 cents) filled it with Marine
Aquarium Iodine (I add some to my tank periodically anyway), stuck it in his face and gave him a blast.  No more Aiptasia.  Don't know if this is
the Rosetta Stone answer for this pest, but it worked for me.
<Bob, thank you for the info.  Will post on the dailies. Although this may work well for a couple of these critters, caution should be given as to iodine
levels if eradicating larger amounts of Aiptasia with this method.  James (Salty Dog)>
Thanks.
Bob

Re: Aiptasia and Frogspawn corals  5/31/06
Hello Bob.
The return of the Aiptasia, imagine that!
A strange thing noticed on the specimen growing among the frogspawn colony: The tentacles closest to the frogspawn polyps are receded and wilted while the pest tries to avoid these polyps.
I found several others growing near the top of the tank where the P. skimmer empties into the water. I know why they grow here though only discovered their presence in the passed couple weeks. This is where I put food for dispersion by the flowing water and it sometimes collects near the top of the rock.
I purchased what I thought are Peppermint shrimp but I am not so sure as these are larger than usual and the coloration seems more subdued and the specimens darker. These are neat little guys at any rate even if they do happen to be the wrong shrimp. I am still looking for the Berghia but have never seen one offered at any of the LFS(s). Right now I am using my QT tank for control though the one rock is exceptionally large where these pests reside. I may restart my 55 gallon tank and purchase a Copperband butterfly or similar species for control... not sure though as incurring more expenses and maintaining yet another tank might get real old real fast. Maybe if I can repair the light fixture on the 24 gallon (I think the external ballast went) then the new light I got could get moved.... Decisions, decisions....
Sincerely,
James Zimmer
<<James:  Frogspawn has a powerful sting.  Sounds like it is stronger than the sting of an Aiptasia.  Peppermints are hit or miss.  When I have bought them, only about 1/2 to 2/3 eat Aiptasia.  Berghia are available online.  If you do a search on www.reefcentral.com and other sites you may find people selling them.  Unfortunately, if they work, they will die once they have eaten all the Aiptasia.  Rather than use critters, if you don't have too many, I like to make a batch of Kalk paste and inject it into the Aiptasia holes with the plastic syringe you get with baby medicines.  After you inject it, don't scrape the paste off.  Eventually coralline algae will grow right over it.  Best of luck, Roy>>

Re: Aiptasia and Frogspawn corals - 06/01/2006
Roy.
Thank you for the advice on Aiptasia control.
I have used the Kalk paste or slurry also and depending on location or orientation to preferred animals I am sometimes reluctant. Yes, this
latest crop will have my work cut for me. I may just use the paste method again for the large rock as it is too much to move into the
smaller QT. As for smaller rocks I can move them and train, hopefully, the shrimp to eat the pest anemones. I will not use concentrated Ca(OH)2 near the frogspawn if I can at all help it.
Again, thank you.
James
<<James:  You're welcome.  Based on my experience, the Peppermint Shrimp will either like Aiptasia or not (that's why if you have a big enough tank, it's good to buy 2 to 3 to see who will eat them).  In my best case, one peppermint ate about 100 Aiptasia within about a day.  It was amazing to see him attack them.  He looked like a boxer working on a speed bag.  Unfortunately, for that Peppermint Shrimp a Skunk Cleaner Shrimp attacked him and ate him.  I guess the Skunk Cleaner liked the taste of Aiptasia fed shrimp. If you are careful with the baby medicine syringe and make a thick enough paste, you can inject the paste with a lot of control (like you are decorating a cake).  If some of the paste starts to float off, just disburse it as fast as you can.  In my experience, if a little bit brushes a coral (such as your frogspawn) as it floats buy, it won't hurt anything. Best of luck, Roy>>

Aiptasia Control...No Shots Please!  - 05/22/2006
I was wondering if you have had any knowledge of removing these with a hypodermic needle and vinegar into the stalk of the base? I have  
one growing on a snail in my 50g reef tank.
<Would not do this, vinegar is very acidic and not safe in your tank.
Do read here and linked files above.   http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/cnidaria/anthozoa/aiptasia/aiptasia.htm
Thanks,
<You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
Edwin

Aiptasia eradication plan
 5/16/06
Hi to the fine folks at WWM,
I will try to make this short; for many reasons I am invested with Aiptasia (mainly my live rock) in my main tank.  This is my plan:  Treat corals with Joe's Juice and transfer piece by  piece slowly to another tank.  When all my main coral's are in the new tank and appear to be clean I am going thoroughly clean the old tank and fill with fresh water and let it sit.  I will then start the process in reverse.  My main question is how tough is Aiptasia?  How long to leave it in the fresh water?  Thanks and please let me know if this is too radical?
Yours (should buy stock in Joe's Juice Company),
Greg
<<Greg:  At the bottom of this link there is a lot of info about Aiptasia control http://www.wetwebmedia.com/mardisindex.htm
Personally, my favorite method is to use peppermint shrimp (though only 1/2 to 2/3 will eat them).  I also like to make a Kalkwasser paste and inject it with a baby's medicine syringe into the hole the Aiptasia lives in.  Don't touch the paste afterwards.  Coralline algae will grow right over it over time.  I don't know how many you have.  Sometimes it is hard to spot them all.  I'm not sure why you want to move things back and forth and use fresh water.  Sometimes when people are really desperate, they carefully take everything they want off the rocks, pull the rocks out of the water and let them sit in the backyard for awhile.  In theory, everything, including the Aiptasia should eventually die.  Then, they put the rocks back and hope that the rocks will get recolonized.  Believe it or not, other people have even used blow torches.  Personally, I think those are crazy/radical approaches.  Best of luck, Roy>>

Archaster Star corrosion, Aiptasia removal success    4/20/06
Hi there!
I was looking for information on why my sand sifter star seems to be losing the tips of his legs (29 gallon tank, has been set up for 20  
months with one complete disassembly to move it downstairs).
<Too small a space for this species... not enough room for endogenous food production>
I finally found the information on your site, along with the information that I have too small a tank - and I really appreciate how you answer all those emails.
You have also in the past had great information on getting rid of Aiptasia anenomes (I managed to get over 72 of them in my tank - that  
was just what I could count!).  I ended up removing the various shrimps from my tank, added 4 peppermint shrimps, and later 2 Berghia  
nudibranchs (although once they disappear in your live rock tank, it is impossible to find them again). The last few tenacious anenomes I  
was able to get rid of by either covering them with a thick Kalkwasser paste (just thin enough to squeeze out of a syringe needle  
tip) of injecting them with lemon juice (I eventually went with this because I thought it was slightly less dangerous to the tank).
I have finally gotten rid of all the Aiptasia, and so my corals are very happy...will be resolving my sandsifter problem soon I hope.
Thanks again for all your help,
Kerstin DeRolf:-)
<Bob Fenner>

When Life Gives You Lemons...   03/9/06
Hello.
<Hi there! Scott F. here today!>
I recently purchase a 55 gallon marine aquarium that had around 20 pounds of live rock. All of the live rock was covered with Aiptasia anemones. I tried tweezers to pull them off  and was hardly successful so I tried injecting lemon juice in the Aiptasia mouths and only managed to kill a few.  Then I got Desperate and I had put all the live rock in a 20 gallon that was already 1/3 full of water  and I dumped the rest of the lemon juice bottle.  Which was nearly full. I had the live rock soaking in the tank for about 20  minutes  twice and I was wondering if this had ruined the live rock? Note that almost all the Aiptasia survived. I noticed also that some of the bristle or Fireworms had fallen out dead but there were still some left when I looked that   night. So basically I was just wondering if the live rock was wasted or useless now. I still have an equal amount from the previous marine tank I had that has not been soaked in lemon juice.
Thanks, Riley
<Well, Riley, I'm sure that some life was lost on the rock, but if the Aiptasia survived the citrus plunge, there is a definite chance that the more desirable stuff survived, too. At the worst, the rock can be re-used, and will "colonize" with new life over time. I say, use it! Good Luck! Regards, Scott F.>

Aiptasia status report/Aiptasia Control  - 02/27/06
Hi, Crew! <Hello Amy>
Just thought I would weigh in on my experiences with Aiptasia control and a variety of methods, after reading all the FAQs.  Bottom line: Nothing yet seems to work.  I have tried 1) Injections with lemon juice.  This worked temporarily; they eventually grew back, and if you get even one or two hiding in crevices that you can't see, it's all over - they'll reproduce out of control from their hidden location.  2) Joe's Juice - this doesn't work very well either.  It does indeed kill the target anemone, but there is a significant problem: it seems to force the dying anemone to clone.  I tested this by feeding Joe's Juice to an anemone that was stuck to the wall of the aquarium, so it was clearly visible on all sides.  Sure enough, the Aiptasia died, but it left behind a ring of ~5 or so tiny clones, which are now growing to full size.  *sigh*  I have used literally a dozen boxes of Joe's Juice, and all it seems to do is induce them to clone.  Watch out!
Since I'm very much against bringing any wild-caught animals into captivity now, I'm going to try Berghia nudibranchs.  I have two arriving on Tuesday morning.  I'm setting up a breeding tank, along with a holding tank for Aiptasias (not that this is a huge problem at the moment - my main tank is covered with hundreds now).  Will let you know how it goes!  If they clean up the Aiptasias, I'll pass them along. <Thank you for the email and do let us know your results.  James (Salty Dog)>
Amy

Dropped Joe's juice right on my anemone 8/5/05
Hi
<Tracy>
I use Joe's Juice for Aiptasia control.  Though it does indeed seem to be harmless when in the water column, last night I accidentally dropped
a medium dose on part of a Condylactis spp. anemone.  This anemone was actually part of a bigger one I have had for 4 yrs that just last week
split into 2.  Both were doing great until this happened.  
<Yikes>
It immediately curled up looked like it was dying etc.  But this morning the victim had split into 2 pieces, each with base tightly adherent to different rocks.
<Yes... stressed induced schizogyny>
  Each piece has some normal looking tentacles and some shriveled, damaged ones.  (Now I have 3 anemones, unbelievable, my skunk clown is going nuts trying to take care of all 3.)
2 questions:  1. Is there anything I can do to support its recovery?
<Optimized, stable water quality... patience>
2. What are the criteria for removing a damaged anemone to avoid poisoning my 150 gallon thriving system?
<"If it's mush, time to flush" (Made this up just now!). Vacuum out the mass if it is falling apart, permanently flaccid>
I called my LFS, and they said make sure I have adequate iodine levels.
<A good idea... won't hurt anything>
I called Joe, and he had no specific suggestions, but thought that it may do fine, since sometimes a half-poisoned Aiptasia will recover, and this is 20x that size.
Thanks for being a consistent source of good advice for my weird problems!
Tracy Creek/Atlanta
<Thank you for sharing. Bob Fenner>
 

 


 

 

 

 

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