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by Robert (Bob) Fenner
| PLEASE: Write reviews of my works on Amazon! I need your input. BobF
Note: BobF is off diving in Fiji till 1/27; hence the
dailies may be sporadic in posting.
Plate Coral Problem
Good Afternoon, I found your site as a recommendation, but only seem to see
freshwater stuff. I apologize if I have reached you in error.
<No worries; all subwebs (including Marine) should show on our root:
Fungiids in general here:
and the linked files at top>
I have a plate coral that I have had for about 3 weeks.
<Mmm; Fungiids are easily lost; most species, but some are notorious>
It looked great and ate well up to a few days ago. I noticed the flesh
on top turning a bit white, and assumed that my diamond Goby had spit some sand
on it and irritated it.
<What they do>
I then put up a bit on a rock and it has continued to decline in appearance.
<Uhh; don't live on rock, but on the substrate>
I have attached pictures.
My parameters are:
S - 1.0245
pH - 8.2
NH3 - 0
No3 - 10
No2 - 0
Ca - 440
KH - 10
The day I noticed it, my parameters were:
S - 1.0245
pH - 8.2
NH3 - 0
No3 - 10
No2 - 0
Ca - 420
KH - 11
I was then told my Alk was a bit high,
<Not... 11, 12 is ideal>
and I've been working to move that down slowly. However, prior to this, my
parameters have been the same for longer than this coral has been in my tank.
Any idea why this coral wouldn't do well?
<All sorts of possibilities... The best route to have you go through the linked
files referenced above... The FAQs files Re Selection, Systems, Health/Disease
All of the other corals I have are doing well, including a Acropora frag that I
Any guidance would be much appreciated
Many thanks, Henry
<Please do write back after reading if your path is not clear. Bob Fenner>
Re: PowerPoint on Allelopathy
<Cheers double T>
Thank you for the prompt response. Here are some photos of my mean ol'
<Mmm; Oh, I see; they're linked below>
It's been a busy week so this photo was taken only minutes after lights on.
It's "eyes" are still opening but you can see by the photos that it is
quickly responding to light and polyps are expanding to full glory.
I've seen this coral upset when I had to remove all the Aiptasia anemones
when I rescued it. I've noticed this animal is particularly sensitive to
stimulus of any kind but "upset" takes the form of zero to weak polyp
extension and frequently folded in a weird position.
<You're a keen observer>
In the photo you can see where there is some irritation on the stem which I
believe is caused by some fisherman-like worm near its base. It has a
threadlike (not glossy spider web like) tentacle similar to a spaghetti worm
that it touches the base with. If you think this is harmful or a precursor
to the agitation, any suggestions for removal are much appreciated.
<I definitely would remove this... and look about, see if any have bored
into the Sarcophyton near the base itself... AND cut these out if so>
If that doesn't work,
I purchased some Chemi-Pure and will be implementing that into my system.
PolyFilter is on the way from Amazon. Thanks again for your help.
S pozdravem / Best regards,
<I would do all that I mentioned in our first email exchange; particularly
the Iodide-ate administration. Bob Fenner>
Did you get my email on compatibility questions?
Please reply ASAP
<Did you not receive my response? Is on the Dailies now:
Wait; I see my response down below here!
Dendro Skin Receding
Hello WWM Crew,
I have a Dendro colony and a handful of frags that came from the colony. I
noticed in the last year or so the skin of the Dendros have been very slowly
receding from the base towards the head. On a few of the frags the skin will
recede and leave a baby head behind.
<Evidence of (too much) stress>
No heads have died, the tentacles are always fully extended, and they always
eat when I feed them about once a week.
<Boing! Make that once a day>
Is the skin receding normal?
Attached is a picture of a few frags that have the skin receding but also
seem to be growing the skeleton taller.
<Do you dose Iodide-ate? I would once a week; during regular maintenance.
Re: Green Wolf Eel Growth
<Hey "Little Jen">
Thank you so much for the quick response and reading all my many words.
Since I wrote you which was when that picture was taken.... the "thing"
changed. I swear it looks like a pimple! Now it looks like a popping one.
Does this change things?
He's waiting for me to feed him as we speak. He came from the back of the
tank to the front when he sees me and knows it is time for food. So good
thing, I guess. I'm attaching a picture of the change. I'm hoping the guess
on it is still the same and it's not some sort of scary monster parasite
Thank you again a million times!
<Cheers, Bob Fenner>
FRAUDULENT EXPORTER - DON'T CONTACT
I wanted to notify you of a Fraudulent Company that had already made
contact with you.
Aquarium Marine Fishes Sri Lanka, Scam run by Samantha Anto.
Please note that he is a Fraudulent seller. He sends pictures and
Airport way bills till the money reflects in his account then he
disappears. The Sri Lankan Authorities are looking for him.
PLEASE NOTIFY YOUR MEMBERS HE IS A SCAM ARTISTS
<Hope gov't authorities catch him>
<Will post/archive on WWM to warn others. Would you mind if we posted
your email address for contact?
Ich in eye? 1/21/17
<... WHY did you send a 5.6 meg file!? SEE and follow our instructions
or GO ELSEWHERE. Am out on an island in Fiji; can't download. JUST READ
on WWM re Cryptocaryon, AND re (FAQs) on Diseases of Acanthurus
leucosternon. Bob Fenner, disgusted>
I've uploaded photo of a powder blue I've had for about two months.
Seemed fine until yesterday, and I woke up and saw this on the eye.
I did quarantine, saw Ich on his body over the past few weeks. All fish
are hit with Prazi pro, water quality is apparently good enough for sps,
no measurable nitrate , minimal phosphate.
Compatibility; fishes for a large FO SW
Please help! I am trying to decide what large fish I can put in my 385 gal tank
with a 90 gal sump. Can you help me out? Right now it has 2 large zebra eels and
a 14" snowflake eel with a 5" Greenbird and Lunare wrasses, along with and two
3" Foxfaces, and 6" Minatus, Spotted and Blue Line Groupers. I am getting in two
tierra batfish. I would like to add a show fish or two to go in with the
existing fish. Can a 5-7" French Angel go in here along with a 6" Volitans Lion,
<Yes to both of these... though the Lion may inhale the Siganids, and possibly
poke the eels>
or a 7" Cortez Stingray,
<No; this is a coldwater species... mis-sold into the trade as a tropical>
or a Blue Girdled/Majestic Angel?
<No; too hard to keep in such mixed company>
Considering all will grow. Do you think the French may nip at the ray or the
I understand that it is not a good idea to mix angels but with this size of tank
do you think it would work with these two and if so should they be introduced
together and at different sizes?
<I'd look into other large and more aquarium suitable Pomacanthids. See WWM Re>
What do you think would be the best mix, considering the existing fish, to add
possibly two more show fish. I appreciate any advice. Thanks
<I'd hold off a month or so after introducing the Tieras. Bob Fenner>
Green Wolf Eel Growth 1/20/17
I wrote in months ago regarding a Hawaiian White Spotted Toby with damage to
the eye and you provided much needed advice! Unfortunately, she passed away
a week later. She was in pain so it was for the best. I'm grateful for this
site and being able to ask for help on something without a fee (like so many
websites nowadays) is incredibly generous. So thank you again and in advance
for any help provided!
I did do a search on here for the problem I'm inquiring about but could not
find anything related. Also, on your website when running Google search I
couldn't find a way to go to the next page of search results. Was this just
<The "next page"? The links on our pages should all be functional. Was this
on Google's work?>
I also searched Google and could not find anything either. My problem has to
do with a white bubble appearing on my Green Wolf Eel
<I see this in your excellent photograph>
and of course results were coming up as anemones, when I tried to eliminate
those results having to do with anemones or corals all I got back was Ich.
So I tried and I apologize if the answer is hidden somewhere and I missed
The details are- we've got a 75 Gallon tank and one of those inhabitants is
a Green Wolf Eel (not a real Eel, so many names not sure which one to use!)
<Ah, yes; a Pseudochromid... MANY fishes (even non-fishes) called eels for
having long bodies...>
named Douche. I'm sorry for the bad word, we thought he was kind of bad when
we first got him. It's an ironic name now because SHE is actually as sweet
as can be. Very motherly. But I say he so ignore the misuse of pronouns!
Douche is attached to the hip with a Snowflake Moray Eel named Snakey.
Snakey doesn't breathe without seeing if Douche does it first. Snakey
doesn't sleep without Douche, usually tearing the sand up to make sure he
can fit underneath Douche.
We have no corals, just live rock, and no Lion Fish. I noticed yesterday a
growth on Douche's face. It looks like a giant white head! Or a puss filled
wound. But I'm not sure if they can even get that as fish. His eating is
fine. He ate last night, his silversides,
<Do broaden this diet... it's deficient in B vitamins... Needed by all life
on this planet>
like always and he was fine. We do have a serious picky eater problem in our
tank. We dose with vitamins but any attempt to soak their food in vitamins
has failed for Snakey and Douche.
<? Well, if placed in the water, ARE getting inside your marine fishes>
If I could get Douche to eat it then Snakey will. So I feel that may be
relevant in case this is related to diet. If so, any other ideas? When I do
try forcing it he bites it, shakes his head, goes to the glass where I am,
and then spits it out. Spiteful!
Douche does like to do this thing I call "chasing his tail." I can't find a
lot on Green Wolf Eels but from observing him a lot and I literally mean
hours every day for the past year, it's totally normal. He just swims in
circles and puts his mouth on his tail like he's trying to eat it.
Identical to a dog. Very dramatic, tends to do it near dinner time. I feel
like he's just saying "I'm so hungry if you don't feed me I'll eat my tail!"
He gets fed everyday. However, sometimes he does this spinning in tight
spaces and I hear him hit his face against the glass or a rock. I'm not sure
if this will end up being relevant or not.
He's large, maybe 14 inches (I'm really bad at guessing that stuff), he
hides under rocks usually with Snakey, comes out same time everyday when he
knows it's time for food. He's a gentle giant. He will eat fish that fit in
his mouth but at the same time it's like he knows who he can't eat.
We've got a File fish (the one they sell for Aiptasia)
<Likely Acreichthys tomentosus>
and while he's grown a bit he's still somewhat bite sized, but Douche never
tries and they actually end up sharing a cave often. The File Fish has
actually gone for silversides that Douche has in his mouth!!!
I don't believe this to be Ick at all because it's just this one spot. Like
I said I'd refer to it more as a bubble. I can see it is raised. He's
behaving normal, eating, pooping, playing, sleeping, as he always does. I
just want to know if this looks like something to be concerned about or
maybe a disease I didn't stumble upon yet. I don't think it could be a bite
and again we have nothing that stings. We've got two Cleaner Shrimp, 2 Camel
shrimp and a Coral Banded Shrimp who take care of parasites (I hope they are
doing their job), so I'd hope that risk is minimal.
(I know those shrimps seem like a bad combination, but the 4 of the little
ones actually share a rock together, and our Snowflake would never eat them
because he's terrified of his own shadow. When he sees a shrimp he runs and
hides under Douche. He's "special." The Coral Banded does try to get the
shrimps but for 7 months now has yet to succeed.)
<Will likely in time. Perhaps during a molt>
We just did a water change this weekend. Our pH is 8.2, Ammonia is 0,
Nitrite 0, Nitrate 0, Salinity 1.022.
<I'd raise, this, keep near 1.025>
Douche and Snakey are the only remaining members of our "Original Members,"
the others were a Lion Fish who passed last year, the Toby, and an Undulated
Trigger who we realized was the Spawn of Satan (my boyfriend picked him
before I knew anything about saltwater tanks or fish, what a shock he turned
It's important to me that he stays healthy and happy. He's the greatest and
so smart and it would kill me if anything happened to him, but most of all
it would kill Snakey. When our Toby passed his best friend our Immaculate
Puffer totally changed his personality. He didn't swim a lot, he hid all
night (which is actually normal but with Little Puff they played all
night), he was never the same. I'm afraid the same would happen to Snakey.
He doesn't feel safe without Douche.
I take care of them daily and my boyfriend maintains the tank. I'm
incredibly involved and I just can't think of anything that changed or
anyone in the tank who could have caused him harm.
I'm attaching a picture and I appreciate you taking the time to read my
rambling on and for having this site in general! I spent hours the other day
reading all your FAQ's on all my fish and it is so informative. Thank you
for the information!! I'm so sorry I talk so much!! :)
<I fully suspect this "growth" is resultant from a physical injury... a
"bump in the night"; and will likely cure itself in time. I would NOT treat
the water, but continue on the schedule you list here. Be of good life. Bob
Re: How many T. ocellicauda can live happily in a 41 L tank?
Thanks so much!
Yes, I am purchasing two 2.5 cm-in-diameter caves to use for each male to have
his own space.
<Good luck; sounds a very attractive aquarium you're going to have there!
How to follow up? Re FW Dis; spec.
I was reading an article and exchange between Bob and somebody named
Cindy for a fish health issue on an Oscar in 2014. I would *so* love to
find out what the deal was because my fish seems to have the same
parasite, and nobody knows what it really is. It was just my Blue Rams,
but now it's my Angels and Boesemanni Rainbows> I have some rare fish in
this tank and I'm deathly afraid they'll get this. One Pleco looks like
it has Ich, but I think that's the beginning look of this thing. Bob
suggested this issue was possible HITH, but it looks like white
protuberances from the fish's head.
The other fish look like they have Ich.
<Mmm; near impossible to tell much re such issues w/o sampling and
simple examination under a microscope. More often than not (ninety some
percent of the time) the real issue here is environmental, NOT
pathogenic. The protuberances, perhaps the spots may just be
consolidation of (body) mucus... from something/s amiss water quality
wise... And the "cure",
redress of the cause of the poor environment>
When my blue rams had it, they would get these raised white things
(bigger than Ich). Those would seem to pop, and then the fish would get
Popeye and die. :( It was *awful*. I'm sick about my angels now.
Evidently this is in my tank and when there is stress, it hits some fish
and not others.
<Again... rather than assuming this may be Protozoan, perhaps a "worm"
parasite... need to study a bit, learn the aforementioned sampling and
Is there any way to find the person who posted the issues?
<Ahh, no. We don't retain peoples' email addresses>
It was under the
page called FAQs on Freshwater Angelfish Disease/Health 9, at the end.
Re: Angelfish with white spots that don't appear to be Ick 2/6/14
<If you can furnish cropped, small size image files, this may be of use.
Re: Note: BobF is off diving in Fiji till 1/27; hence the
dailies may be sporadic in posting. 1/18/17
What a great life you have Bob. :-) Enjoy.
<Thank you James. B>
PowerPoint on Allelopathy 1/18/17
I have a green leather toadstool with patches of white opaque areas on
the "face" that the polyps extend out of. It is opening and extending
its polyps as it would normally and seems in good spirits despite the
white patches. My first guess is that it is trying to "shed" as leathers
will do, but I am more concerned for the safety of the other corals in
the tank. If
you upset the leather it can secrete toxins so I want to keep it as calm
as possible. Will send pictures if you like.
<Please do; well cropped... a few hundred Kbytes>
I remember reading that you had a PowerPoint on allelopathy but I can't
find it for the life of me. Would you mind directing me to the link? If
you have any suggested reading for me I would appreciate it. Thank you
so much for your insight and your wonderful website. I've spent
literally hours getting lost here.
<Don't think we have such a ppt... I put away most all... and have for
S pozdravem / Best regards,
<I suspect you're right re the Sarcophyton shedding... which they do
almost continuously, then shed a bunch at times. I encourage you to
triple dose iodide-ate, turn up your circulation, aeration; refresh you
chemical filtrants (Chemi-Pure and PolyFilter are faves here... and keep
your eyes on your other livestock for signs of stress. Bob Fenner>
RDSB Update 1/18/17
Aloha Bob and Crew, while the system did seem to stabilize with the
addition of the 150g. Rubbermaid RDSB, I have been dealing with
a diatom outbreak in the main tank that just won't stop.
<It will in time>
I held back in writing before figuring it would cycle away with my 0 Po4
reading, But no. Then I got to the bottom of that Caribsea sand it old
you about, questioning the silica properties of it. Sure enough the
"Florida sand" is actually silicate-based. I put two bags in my Dt
before topping of with an inn of Crushed Coral.
Am I doomed?
<No... though you might consider augmenting the SiO2 with some
calcareous material... this can be placed on top or mixed in>
Here's a pic but it's hard to tell with that clown constantly digging
holes- isn't that no bueno for the DSB, btw?
<Likely no big deal>
Funny to watch him hammer the button lip of the RBTA so it reaches up to
hold him better!
<Cheers! Bob Fenner, out your way in March>
How many T. ocellicauda can live happily in a 41 L tank?
Hello WWM people. I know Dr. Monks in your group keeps peacock
gudgeons/gobies (T. ocellicauda), so if he's around, maybe he could
I have a new nano tank, 10.7 US gallons/41 litres, 45 cm x 30 cm x 30
I used to have a larger tank (30 us gallons) that I had to break down
and sell because I moved. Now I'm setting up this new smaller tank in my
smaller living space. Peacock gudgeons are my favorite fish of all of
the ones I've kept thus far, so I'd like to have just those in my new
nano tank. How many can I reasonably keep in this tank, assuming it's
planted and there are no other inhabitants? Filter is going to be a
power filter rated for 10 gallons.
<Well, a single male and 2-4 females would probably be fine. Since
they're not sexually dimorphic, it's not like you'd be stuck with there
dowdy-looking females. But if you wanted pairs, I think you might be
able to keep two pairs, but you'd need to be extremely careful about
having hollow ornaments of some sort where the males could 'stake their
without being in plain sight of each other. In 10 gallons, if the two
males decide not to tolerate one another, there's not a lot of hiding
space. So you want to pre-empt that as far as practical.>
I'd love to be able to keep a quartet of gudgeons if possible -- two
males, two females, if at all possible. But is that overstocking it?
<Not as such; these gobies aren't particularly active or heavy feeders,
so water quality should be fine.>
Please note there will be driftwood and plants to help break up sight
<Good move. Cheers, Neale.>
R/O unit; coming out of years storage 1/16/17
I stopped using my R/O / DI unit for about 3 years, I just shut off the water
supply to the unit, so I assume it still has some water in it, I started it up
again this week, my question is what are the issues with a unit sitting this
long without use, do I need to change the membrane <Mmm; perhaps; but if it were
me/mine, I'd simply test the effluent/filtered water for TDS, chlorine... even
just pH. Likely if you have a carbon contactor there is no need to change out
and filters, what about the DI canisters, would the those be ok. I flushed the
unit for 1 hour and the TDS was zero on the outgoing water.
<Oh! You're golden then. No worries>
not sure if this means its ok. is there any other tests I should do to confirm
water is ok, a little confused.
thanks for your help.
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Thank you for your donation to WWM 1/16/17
David; much appreciated.
Re: Pbt 1/15/17
You indicated to read but nothing was attached
<Where you've been referred to on WWM. Search just Acanthurus leucosternon...
read all. B>
Re: Pbt 1/15/17
Thanks when I search Acanthurus leucosternon on your site it comes up with stuff
just on pbt.. sorry a little confused on what you are telling me to look at..
sorry just confused.. do you know what this is.. thx
<Mate; I've responded re this, and told you where to find the resp. twice on
WWM. Either go there and read or go elsewhere. B>
Re: Pbt 1/15/17
Ok again not trying to be hard..but told me twice to look up info on Acanthurus
leucosternon.. correct.. that is the name for pbt.. correct.. I was just trying
to id what was on the pics I sent.. I'm not sure if we were talking about the
same thing.. sorry for the confusion
Help with Goldfish medication /Neale
<<I would support Bob's comments that "mixing and matching"
medications isn't the solution here. We just can't predict how
they'll interact with each other. I'd be looking at optimising
environmental conditions, for example ensuring the water is
clean, hard, alkaline, and not too warm (22-25 C is about the uppermost
that Goldfish enjoy). Using salt can work well against Whitespot
and Velvet, and can be useful when fish are stressed, but shouldn't be
used indefinitely. That said, Goldfish are tolerant of brackish
conditions, so even fairly saline conditions -- say, 3 gram/litre --
will do them no harm. Such saline conditions will eliminate most types
of external parasite, and tend to be much safer than copper and
formalin. Plus, salt can be used alongside antibiotics without risk of
negative interactions. Even by itself salt can help reduce the risk of
wounds becoming infected, though this assumes the fish's own immune
system is basically sound; salt isn't really an antibacterial at these
sorts of concentrations. The use of Epsom salt is another
completely safe technique, up to a tablespoon per 20 litres
being suitable for raising general hardness (which Goldfish love) while
also having a mild laxative effect that helps against constipation. When
herbivorous fish are off-colour, a good approach is to eliminate all
meat-based foods, and focus entirely on algae, pondweed, canned peas,
etc. Often fish won't show much interest at first, but don't worry --
they'll eat it when they're hungry! The more fibre, the better. It'll
clear out their guts, and it's often constipation that causes Goldfish
to swim oddly. In any case, with a healthier diet herbivorous fish will
get the vitamins and minerals they need, and issues like bloating and
even Dropsy can be reduced/cured. Hope this helps, Neale>>
Re: Help with Goldfish medication 1/15/17
Hi Bob and Neale,
Thank you both for taking the time to read and respond to everything in
I did not know that canned Blood worms are bad. I had frozen
them and cut it into small portions and was giving them a small portion
every second day, but will throw them away now.
<Yes; I would>
Yesterday afternoon I noticed that the black Oranda with sleeping
problems was looking quite shiny, even more then before, except for his
There were 2 small cloudy patches on his top fin. This morning he has a
3mm hole in the middle of the top fin, where one of the cloudy patches
I will do another 35% water change. I trust the Sterazin I put in 48
hours ago has either stressed him, or disrupted the water equilibrium
and caused a bacteria spike.
He also looks slightly more rounded today. No scales sticking out, just
bigger around the rib cage just behind his head, but not at the back
I will not add any more Sterazin. I will swap to a completely greens
based diet for the next 7 days, up the salt, and add Dr Tim's first
defence, and continue with the water changes.
Should I also try Epsom salts which you mentioned to relieve bloating?
It is a 255Litre aquarium, currently with 3 teaspoons of salt per 9
How much Epsom would be a good safe amount considering the current salt
<I would discontinue the aquarium salt use... You can search, see Neale
and I's takes on its regular use. Not warranted. And yes to the
possibility of using Epsom period>
Do you think the top fin hole is bacteria based from stress and will
clear up on its own?
<Can't tell re origin, but yes to the latter>
Thank you again for your time,
<And you, Bob Fenner>
Re: Help with Goldfish medication; hypo.
Hi Bob and Neale,
I did the 70 Litre water change this morning as planned. I will ease off
the salt level gradually. I will try feeding just greens for a week and
see if the black Oranda's sleeping position changes and if this reduces
his/her slightly enlarged chest.
Tomorrow I will add a low dose of Epsom salts to the aquarium. (it will
be interesting to see if it makes them do any super-pooping!)
I am writing back to you again because I just noticed the blue Oranda
(the largest of the 3) has one small white lump at the tip of his anal
fin, and one small lump in the centre of the same fin. I have gone
through pages and pages of info from your amazing website and have
concluded that the small white lumps are bacterial.
<Not necessarily; no. "Just" bumps at times... similar to humans>
I think that my initial panic of parasites may be a bit silly. Surely if
they had parasites I would have known it months ago, and they would be
lethargic, lacking in appetite, clamping their fins, have some sort of
ulcers or specs, and not be active and social.
<The parasites would have had to come from somewhere... biological>
The only parasite that I could find that might stay hidden could be
internal worms or external Costia. But everything I read says Costia
causes clamped fins and a slimy coating, and that intestinal worms
causes wasting. My fishes are not slimy
and they are quite fat!
I have always had a concern about bacteria though. Goldfish are water
piggies and even with strict cleaning regimes, sometimes things can go
astray, especially in warmer water, and when they are feeling stressed.
I apologise for all my crazy panicking, I don't have too much experience
with sick fishes, prevention is better than cure.
But, I lost a fish to Dropsy,
<Or rather, a "dropsical condition"; numerous etiologies possible>
so I am definitely doing something wrong. If the Dropsy was caused by a
bacterial infection (rather than parasites)
from either impacted eggs, or an impacted intestine from constipation,
would this bacteria multiply in the water and cause the fin issues that
I am seeing now on my remaining fishes?
<Sometimes simply "weak genes". More common as time goes by with
these mass-produced, too-inbred strains>
Now I think about it more, when I removed the Dropsy fish and put her
into a quarantine tank, within hours her fins looked like they had been
shredded. I just assumed her fins went like this because her immune
system had given up because of the intense infection. I know that low
levels of bacteria are always present in the water, and the fishes
immune system usually keeps them at bay. This fin shredding bacteria
would have been present on her in the main tank before I had a chance to
isolate her. I hadn't thought about the bacteria that was on her fins
until now, I was only thinking about the fishes eating her bacteria
Do you think that any (or all) of the following is enough bacterial
evidence for me to worry or warrant any form of treatments for my
i.e.. (1) the sudden case of dropsy (+ her shredded fins) and consequent
loss of this one fish 9 days ago
(2) all fishes displaying the stringy faeces, and crumbly not formed
(3) the smallest Oranda with one small split in his tail (that has not
healed at all in 6 days - strange because any splits caused by damage
from netting etc seem to have healed rapidly in past experiences)
(4) the black Oranda with night time surface sleeping, and some surface
chomping. (and possibly slightly weaker swimming action - tipping
sideways in the water current when mouthing gravel, and getting knocked
out of the way by the other fishes when they are "schooling" or in a
(5) the black Oranda with a slightly enlarged chest, best described as a
slight "hump" under his/her chin, where the front fins join the body.
(6) the black Oranda with slightly dull/greyish patches on his top fin
which turned into a 3mm hole overnight
(7) the blue Oranda with a new small white lump on the tip of his anal
fin, and a lump on the centre of the same fin
I do have Myxazin, Pimafix and Melafix in my cupboard if any of these
are needed, as well as (and I hope I never need to use these
antibiotics: Octozin/dimetridazole, Tetracycline Hydrochloride, and
Triple Sulfa). I will also soon have the API General Cure
(Metronidazole/Praziquantel combo). Plus the Sterazin mentioned earlier.
<Am done responding to this. NONE. B>
The loss of a fish made be go a bit crazy buying a whole lot of "just in
Please let me know your thoughts, and thank you for all your time,
Re: Pbt 1/14/17
Hi did you get to look at these
<Already responded re. See WWM Dailies if you didn't receive directly. B>
Any ideas?? Is it ich? Thanks
Having trouble identifying this Acro hitchhiking crab
I recently bought a small Acro colony and it had 3 crabs.
<Neat! Evidence of good handling>
I knew there was one in the colony, it's part of why I chose it. But I
didn't expect 3! This album contains the pictures I'm referencing, feel free
to host them on your site though https://imgur.com/a/5b3LK I was able to
identify the small one (3rd & 4th pictures) as a Hairy blue-eyed Acro crab
(Cymo andreossyi) which as I understand it will pick on
<All will/do to extents. I'd keep them all... not that damaging in most
On large colonies they're supposedly symbiotic, but dangerous to small
colonies, so I tossed him in with my P. ciliata mantis shrimp. I was able to
identify the other (last picture) as a Tetralia crab, safe and symbiotic,
and put it in the tank with the coral. But I'm stuck on the one pictured in
the 1st and 3rd pictures. The color matches the coral closely, and the body
shape reminds me of a Trapezia which makes me think that it's commensal.
<I agree on both counts>
It's legs are a little bit fuzzy though. One claw is slightly larger and a
little bit sharper, the other is smaller and has flat tips, clearly intended
for gripping and scraping. I've been Googling for a couple hours now and
haven't been able to get a good ID on him. In the meantime he's in a critter
keeper with an airstone. So, should I put him with the colony
or would it be wiser to let him test his fate with the mantis?
<As stated, I'd keep all>
<And you for sharing. Bob Fenner>
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