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Isognomon radiatus, Lister Purse Oyster. To 2.5 in. Often found in clusters. Roatan 2016.

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General FAQs
Updated 1/21/2017
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Scorpionfishes: Lionfishes & Much More for Marine Aquariums
Diversity, Selection & Care

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by Robert (Bob) Fenner
PLEASE: Write reviews of my works on Amazon! I need your input. BobF

Note: BobF is off diving in Fiji till 1/27; hence the dailies may be sporadic in posting.

Plate Coral Problem          1/21/17
Good Afternoon, I found your site as a recommendation, but only seem to see freshwater stuff. I apologize if I have reached you in error.
<No worries; all subwebs (including Marine) should show on our root: http://wetwebmedia.com/
Fungiids in general here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fungiidae.htm
and the linked files at top>
I have a plate coral that I have had for about 3 weeks.
<Mmm; Fungiids are easily lost; most species, but some are notorious>
It looked great and ate well up to a few days ago. I noticed the flesh on top turning a bit white, and assumed that my diamond Goby had spit some sand on it and irritated it.
<What they do>

I then put up a bit on a rock and it has continued to decline in appearance.
<Uhh; don't live on rock, but on the substrate>
I have attached pictures.
My parameters are:
Parameters:
S - 1.0245
pH - 8.2
NH3 - 0
No3 - 10
No2 - 0
Ca - 440
KH - 10
The day I noticed it, my parameters were:
Parameters:
S - 1.0245
pH - 8.2
NH3 - 0
No3 - 10
No2 - 0
Ca - 420
KH - 11
I was then told my Alk was a bit high,
<Not... 11, 12 is ideal>
and I've been working to move that down slowly. However, prior to this, my parameters have been the same for longer than this coral has been in my tank.
Any idea why this coral wouldn't do well?
<All sorts of possibilities... The best route to have you go through the linked files referenced above... The FAQs files Re Selection, Systems, Health/Disease in particular>
All of the other corals I have are doing well, including a Acropora frag that I have.
Any guidance would be much appreciated
Many thanks, Henry
<Please do write back after reading if your path is not clear. Bob Fenner>


Re: PowerPoint on Allelopathy         1/21/17
Good afternoon,
<Cheers double T>
Thank you for the prompt response. Here are some photos of my mean ol' toadstool leather.
<Mmm; Oh, I see; they're linked below>
It's been a busy week so this photo was taken only minutes after lights on. It's "eyes" are still opening but you can see by the photos that it is quickly responding to light and polyps are expanding to full glory.
I've seen this coral upset when I had to remove all the Aiptasia anemones when I rescued it. I've noticed this animal is particularly sensitive to stimulus of any kind but "upset" takes the form of zero to weak polyp extension and frequently folded in a weird position.
<You're a keen observer>
In the photo you can see where there is some irritation on the stem which I believe is caused by some fisherman-like worm near its base. It has a threadlike (not glossy spider web like) tentacle similar to a spaghetti worm that it touches the base with. If you think this is harmful or a precursor to the agitation, any suggestions for removal are much appreciated.
<I definitely would remove this... and look about, see if any have bored into the Sarcophyton near the base itself... AND cut these out if so>
Google: https://goo.gl/photos/QSyaCa6yNVg1L6Bm8
<Nope>
If that doesn't work,
Photo1: https://www.dropbox.com/s/3nvu70w318aay1p/Toadstool%20Leather%201.jpg?dl=0
Photo2: https://www.dropbox.com/s/95b7kwp9kcz6au7/Toadstool%20Leather%202.jpg?dl=0
Photo3: https://www.dropbox.com/s/o3ripa78adicp3j/Toadstool%20Leather%203.jpg?dl=0
<These do>
I purchased some Chemi-Pure and will be implementing that into my system. PolyFilter is on the way from Amazon. Thanks again for your help.
S pozdravem / Best regards,
Taylor Thrasher

<I would do all that I mentioned in our first email exchange; particularly the Iodide-ate administration. Bob Fenner>

Re: Compatibility         1/21/17
Did you get my email on compatibility questions?
Please reply ASAP
Thank you!
<Did you not receive my response? Is on the Dailies now:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/daily_faqs3.htm
Wait; I see my response down below here!
BobF>

Dendro Skin Receding         1/21/17
Hello WWM Crew,
<Howsit Eric?>
I have a Dendro colony and a handful of frags that came from the colony. I noticed in the last year or so the skin of the Dendros have been very slowly receding from the base towards the head. On a few of the frags the skin will recede and leave a baby head behind.
<Evidence of (too much) stress>
No heads have died, the tentacles are always fully extended, and they always eat when I feed them about once a week.
<Boing! Make that once a day>
Is the skin receding normal?
<Nope>
Attached is a picture of a few frags that have the skin receding but also seem to be growing the skeleton taller.
Thanks,
Eric
<Do you dose Iodide-ate? I would once a week; during regular maintenance.
Bob Fenner


Re: Green Wolf Eel Growth         1/21/17
Hello Again!
<Hey "Little Jen">
Thank you so much for the quick response and reading all my many words.
Since I wrote you which was when that picture was taken.... the "thing" changed. I swear it looks like a pimple! Now it looks like a popping one.
<Ah yes>
Does this change things?
<Nope>
He's waiting for me to feed him as we speak. He came from the back of the tank to the front when he sees me and knows it is time for food. So good thing, I guess. I'm attaching a picture of the change. I'm hoping the guess on it is still the same and it's not some sort of scary monster parasite being born.
Thank you again a million times!
<Cheers, Bob Fenner>

FRAUDULENT EXPORTER - DON'T CONTACT         1/21/17
Good Day
<And you>
I wanted to notify you of a Fraudulent Company that had already made contact with you.
Aquarium Marine Fishes Sri Lanka, Scam run by Samantha Anto.
Please note that he is a Fraudulent seller. He sends pictures and Airport way bills till the money reflects in his account then he disappears. The Sri Lankan Authorities are looking for him.
PLEASE NOTIFY YOUR MEMBERS HE IS A SCAM ARTISTS
<Hope gov't authorities catch him>
Regards
Antonio
<Will post/archive on WWM to warn others. Would you mind if we posted your email address for contact?
Bob Fenner>

Ich in eye?        1/21/17
<... WHY did you send a 5.6 meg file!? SEE and follow our instructions or GO ELSEWHERE. Am out on an island in Fiji; can't download. JUST READ on WWM re Cryptocaryon, AND re (FAQs) on Diseases of Acanthurus leucosternon. Bob Fenner, disgusted>
Morning crew,.
I've uploaded photo of a powder blue I've had for about two months. Seemed fine until yesterday, and I woke up and saw this on the eye.
I did quarantine, saw Ich on his body over the past few weeks. All fish are hit with Prazi pro, water quality is apparently good enough for sps, no measurable nitrate , minimal phosphate.

Compatibility; fishes for a large FO SW       1/20/17
Please help! I am trying to decide what large fish I can put in my 385 gal tank with a 90 gal sump. Can you help me out? Right now it has 2 large zebra eels and a 14" snowflake eel with a 5" Greenbird and Lunare wrasses, along with and two 3" Foxfaces, and 6" Minatus, Spotted and Blue Line Groupers. I am getting in two tierra batfish. I would like to add a show fish or two to go in with the existing fish. Can a 5-7" French Angel go in here along with a 6" Volitans Lion,
<Yes to both of these... though the Lion may inhale the Siganids, and possibly poke the eels>
or a 7" Cortez Stingray,
<No; this is a coldwater species... mis-sold into the trade as a tropical>
or a Blue Girdled/Majestic Angel?
<No; too hard to keep in such mixed company>

Considering all will grow. Do you think the French may nip at the ray or the lion?
<Possibly>
I understand that it is not a good idea to mix angels but with this size of tank do you think it would work with these two and if so should they be introduced together and at different sizes?
<I'd look into other large and more aquarium suitable Pomacanthids. See WWM Re>
What do you think would be the best mix, considering the existing fish, to add possibly two more show fish. I appreciate any advice. Thanks
<I'd hold off a month or so after introducing the Tieras. Bob Fenner>

Green Wolf Eel Growth      1/20/17
Hello!
<Jen>
I wrote in months ago regarding a Hawaiian White Spotted Toby with damage to the eye and you provided much needed advice! Unfortunately, she passed away a week later. She was in pain so it was for the best. I'm grateful for this site and being able to ask for help on something without a fee (like so many websites nowadays) is incredibly generous. So thank you again and in advance for any help provided!
<Certainly welcome>
I did do a search on here for the problem I'm inquiring about but could not find anything related. Also, on your website when running Google search I couldn't find a way to go to the next page of search results. Was this just me?
<The "next page"? The links on our pages should all be functional. Was this on Google's work?>
I also searched Google and could not find anything either. My problem has to do with a white bubble appearing on my Green Wolf Eel
<I see this in your excellent photograph>
and of course results were coming up as anemones, when I tried to eliminate those results having to do with anemones or corals all I got back was Ich.
So I tried and I apologize if the answer is hidden somewhere and I missed it!
The details are- we've got a 75 Gallon tank and one of those inhabitants is a Green Wolf Eel (not a real Eel, so many names not sure which one to use!)
<Ah, yes; a Pseudochromid... MANY fishes (even non-fishes) called eels for having long bodies...>
named Douche. I'm sorry for the bad word, we thought he was kind of bad when we first got him. It's an ironic name now because SHE is actually as sweet as can be. Very motherly. But I say he so ignore the misuse of pronouns!
Douche is attached to the hip with a Snowflake Moray Eel named Snakey.
Snakey doesn't breathe without seeing if Douche does it first. Snakey doesn't sleep without Douche, usually tearing the sand up to make sure he can fit underneath Douche.
We have no corals, just live rock, and no Lion Fish. I noticed yesterday a growth on Douche's face. It looks like a giant white head! Or a puss filled wound. But I'm not sure if they can even get that as fish. His eating is fine. He ate last night, his silversides,
<Do broaden this diet... it's deficient in B vitamins... Needed by all life on this planet>
like always and he was fine. We do have a serious picky eater problem in our tank. We dose with vitamins but any attempt to soak their food in vitamins has failed for Snakey and Douche.
<? Well, if placed in the water, ARE getting inside your marine fishes>
If I could get Douche to eat it then Snakey will. So I feel that may be relevant in case this is related to diet. If so, any other ideas? When I do try forcing it he bites it, shakes his head, goes to the glass where I am, and then spits it out. Spiteful!
Douche does like to do this thing I call "chasing his tail." I can't find a lot on Green Wolf Eels but from observing him a lot and I literally mean hours every day for the past year, it's totally normal. He just swims in circles and puts his mouth on his tail like he's trying to eat it.
Identical to a dog. Very dramatic, tends to do it near dinner time. I feel like he's just saying "I'm so hungry if you don't feed me I'll eat my tail!" He gets fed everyday. However, sometimes he does this spinning in tight spaces and I hear him hit his face against the glass or a rock. I'm not sure if this will end up being relevant or not.
He's large, maybe 14 inches (I'm really bad at guessing that stuff), he hides under rocks usually with Snakey, comes out same time everyday when he knows it's time for food. He's a gentle giant. He will eat fish that fit in his mouth but at the same time it's like he knows who he can't eat.
We've got a File fish (the one they sell for Aiptasia)
<Likely Acreichthys tomentosus>
and while he's grown a bit he's still somewhat bite sized, but Douche never tries and they actually end up sharing a cave often. The File Fish has actually gone for silversides that Douche has in his mouth!!!
I don't believe this to be Ick at all because it's just this one spot. Like I said I'd refer to it more as a bubble. I can see it is raised. He's behaving normal, eating, pooping, playing, sleeping, as he always does. I just want to know if this looks like something to be concerned about or maybe a disease I didn't stumble upon yet. I don't think it could be a bite and again we have nothing that stings. We've got two Cleaner Shrimp, 2 Camel shrimp and a Coral Banded Shrimp who take care of parasites (I hope they are doing their job), so I'd hope that risk is minimal.
(I know those shrimps seem like a bad combination, but the 4 of the little ones actually share a rock together, and our Snowflake would never eat them because he's terrified of his own shadow. When he sees a shrimp he runs and hides under Douche. He's "special." The Coral Banded does try to get the shrimps but for 7 months now has yet to succeed.)
<Will likely in time. Perhaps during a molt>
We just did a water change this weekend. Our pH is 8.2, Ammonia is 0, Nitrite 0, Nitrate 0, Salinity 1.022.
<I'd raise, this, keep near 1.025>
Douche and Snakey are the only remaining members of our "Original Members," the others were a Lion Fish who passed last year, the Toby, and an Undulated Trigger who we realized was the Spawn of Satan (my boyfriend picked him before I knew anything about saltwater tanks or fish, what a shock he turned out evil!!!).
It's important to me that he stays healthy and happy. He's the greatest and so smart and it would kill me if anything happened to him, but most of all it would kill Snakey. When our Toby passed his best friend our Immaculate Puffer totally changed his personality. He didn't swim a lot, he hid all night (which is actually normal but with Little Puff they played all
night), he was never the same. I'm afraid the same would happen to Snakey.
He doesn't feel safe without Douche.
I take care of them daily and my boyfriend maintains the tank. I'm incredibly involved and I just can't think of anything that changed or anyone in the tank who could have caused him harm.
I'm attaching a picture and I appreciate you taking the time to read my rambling on and for having this site in general! I spent hours the other day reading all your FAQ's on all my fish and it is so informative. Thank you for the information!! I'm so sorry I talk so much!! :)
Sincerely,
Jenelle
<I fully suspect this "growth" is resultant from a physical injury... a "bump in the night"; and will likely cure itself in time. I would NOT treat the water, but continue on the schedule you list here. Be of good life. Bob Fenner>

Re: How many T. ocellicauda can live happily in a 41 L tank?      1/19/17
Thanks so much!
Yes, I am purchasing two 2.5 cm-in-diameter caves to use for each male to have his own space.
<Good luck; sounds a very attractive aquarium you're going to have there!
Cheers, Neale.>

How to follow up? Re FW Dis; spec.       1/19/17
Hi guys,
<Hey J>
I was reading an article and exchange between Bob and somebody named Cindy for a fish health issue on an Oscar in 2014. I would *so* love to find out what the deal was because my fish seems to have the same parasite, and nobody knows what it really is. It was just my Blue Rams, but now it's my Angels and Boesemanni Rainbows> I have some rare fish in this tank and I'm deathly afraid they'll get this. One Pleco looks like it has Ich, but I think that's the beginning look of this thing. Bob suggested this issue was possible HITH, but it looks like white protuberances from the fish's head.
The other fish look like they have Ich.
<Mmm; near impossible to tell much re such issues w/o sampling and simple examination under a microscope. More often than not (ninety some percent of the time) the real issue here is environmental, NOT pathogenic. The protuberances, perhaps the spots may just be consolidation of (body) mucus... from something/s amiss water quality wise... And the "cure",
redress of the cause of the poor environment>
When my blue rams had it, they would get these raised white things (bigger than Ich). Those would seem to pop, and then the fish would get Popeye and die. :( It was *awful*. I'm sick about my angels now. Evidently this is in my tank and when there is stress, it hits some fish and not others.
<Again... rather than assuming this may be Protozoan, perhaps a "worm" parasite... need to study a bit, learn the aforementioned sampling and 'scope use>
Is there any way to find the person who posted the issues?
<Ahh, no. We don't retain peoples' email addresses>
It was under the
page called FAQs on Freshwater Angelfish Disease/Health 9, at the end. Re: Angelfish with white spots that don't appear to be Ick 2/6/14
Thanks!
Janice
<If you can furnish cropped, small size image files, this may be of use. Bob Fenner>

Re: Note: BobF is off diving in Fiji till 1/27; hence the dailies may be sporadic in posting.    1/18/17
What a great life you have Bob. :-) Enjoy.
<Thank you James. B>
*James G.*

PowerPoint on Allelopathy    1/18/17
Good evening,
<TT>
I have a green leather toadstool with patches of white opaque areas on the "face" that the polyps extend out of. It is opening and extending its polyps as it would normally and seems in good spirits despite the white patches. My first guess is that it is trying to "shed" as leathers will do, but I am more concerned for the safety of the other corals in the tank. If
you upset the leather it can secrete toxins so I want to keep it as calm as possible. Will send pictures if you like.
<Please do; well cropped... a few hundred Kbytes>
I remember reading that you had a PowerPoint on allelopathy but I can't find it for the life of me. Would you mind directing me to the link? If you have any suggested reading for me I would appreciate it. Thank you so much for your insight and your wonderful website. I've spent literally hours getting lost here.
<Don't think we have such a ppt... I put away most all... and have for twenty years.>
S pozdravem / Best regards,
Taylor Thrasher
<I suspect you're right re the Sarcophyton shedding... which they do almost continuously, then shed a bunch at times. I encourage you to triple dose iodide-ate, turn up your circulation, aeration; refresh you chemical filtrants (Chemi-Pure and PolyFilter are faves here... and keep your eyes on your other livestock for signs of stress. Bob Fenner>

RDSB Update    1/18/17
Aloha Bob and Crew, while the system did seem to stabilize with the addition of the 150g. Rubbermaid RDSB, I have been dealing with a diatom outbreak in the main tank that just won't stop.
<It will in time>

I held back in writing before figuring it would cycle away with my 0 Po4 reading, But no. Then I got to the bottom of that Caribsea sand it old you about, questioning the silica properties of it. Sure enough the "Florida sand" is actually silicate-based. I put two bags in my Dt before topping of with an inn of Crushed Coral.
Am I doomed?
<No... though you might consider augmenting the SiO2 with some calcareous material... this can be placed on top or mixed in>
Here's a pic but it's hard to tell with that clown constantly digging holes- isn't that no bueno for the DSB, btw?
<Likely no big deal>
Funny to watch him hammer the button lip of the RBTA so it reaches up to hold him better!
<Cheers! Bob Fenner, out your way in March>
Sky Kubby

How many T. ocellicauda can live happily in a 41 L tank?    1/18/17
Hello WWM people. I know Dr. Monks in your group keeps peacock gudgeons/gobies (T. ocellicauda), so if he's around, maybe he could help?
<Fire away!>
I have a new nano tank, 10.7 US gallons/41 litres, 45 cm x 30 cm x 30 cm.
<Nice.>
I used to have a larger tank (30 us gallons) that I had to break down and sell because I moved. Now I'm setting up this new smaller tank in my smaller living space. Peacock gudgeons are my favorite fish of all of the ones I've kept thus far, so I'd like to have just those in my new nano tank. How many can I reasonably keep in this tank, assuming it's moderately
planted and there are no other inhabitants? Filter is going to be a power filter rated for 10 gallons.
<Well, a single male and 2-4 females would probably be fine. Since they're not sexually dimorphic, it's not like you'd be stuck with there dowdy-looking females. But if you wanted pairs, I think you might be able to keep two pairs, but you'd need to be extremely careful about having hollow ornaments of some sort where the males could 'stake their claims'
without being in plain sight of each other. In 10 gallons, if the two males decide not to tolerate one another, there's not a lot of hiding space. So you want to pre-empt that as far as practical.>
I'd love to be able to keep a quartet of gudgeons if possible -- two males, two females, if at all possible. But is that overstocking it?
<Not as such; these gobies aren't particularly active or heavy feeders, so water quality should be fine.>
Please note there will be driftwood and plants to help break up sight lines.
<Good move. Cheers, Neale.>

R/O unit; coming out of years storage      1/16/17
I stopped using my R/O / DI unit for about 3 years, I just shut off the water supply to the unit, so I assume it still has some water in it, I started it up again this week, my question is what are the issues with a unit sitting this long without use, do I need to change the membrane <Mmm; perhaps; but if it were me/mine, I'd simply test the effluent/filtered water for TDS, chlorine... even just pH. Likely if you have a carbon contactor there is no need to change out the other
membranes>
and filters, what about the DI canisters, would the those be ok. I flushed the unit for 1 hour and the TDS was zero on the outgoing water.
<Oh! You're golden then. No worries>
not sure if this means its ok. is there any other tests I should do to confirm water is ok, a little confused.
thanks for your help.
Val Sammut
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>
Toronto,Canada.

Thank you for your donation to WWM     1/16/17
David; much appreciated.
Bob Fenner

Re: Pbt     1/15/17
You indicated to read but nothing was attached
<Where you've been referred to on WWM. Search just Acanthurus leucosternon... read all. B>
Eric
Re: Pbt     1/15/17

Thanks when I search Acanthurus leucosternon on your site it comes up with stuff just on pbt.. sorry a little confused on what you are telling me to look at.. sorry just confused.. do you know what this is.. thx
<Mate; I've responded re this, and told you where to find the resp. twice on WWM. Either go there and read or go elsewhere. B>
Re: Pbt     1/15/17

http://www.wetwebmedia.com/WWMAdminSubWebIndex/question_page.htm
Ok again not trying to be hard..but told me twice to look up info on Acanthurus leucosternon.. correct.. that is the name for pbt.. correct.. I was just trying to id what was on the pics I sent.. I'm not sure if we were talking about the same thing.. sorry for the confusion
Eric

Help with Goldfish medication /Neale      1/15/17
<<I would support Bob's comments that "mixing and matching" medications isn't the solution here. We just can't predict how they'll interact with each other. I'd be looking at optimising environmental conditions, for example ensuring the water is clean, hard, alkaline, and not too warm (22-25 C is about the uppermost that Goldfish enjoy). Using salt can work well against Whitespot and Velvet, and can be useful when fish are stressed, but shouldn't be used indefinitely. That said, Goldfish are tolerant of brackish conditions, so even fairly saline conditions -- say, 3 gram/litre -- will do them no harm. Such saline conditions will eliminate most types of external parasite, and tend to be much safer than copper and formalin. Plus, salt can be used alongside antibiotics without risk of negative interactions. Even by itself salt can help reduce the risk of wounds becoming infected, though this assumes the fish's own immune system is basically sound; salt isn't really an antibacterial at these sorts of concentrations. The use of Epsom salt is another completely safe technique, up to a tablespoon per 20 litres being suitable for raising general hardness (which Goldfish love) while also having a mild laxative effect that helps against constipation. When herbivorous fish are off-colour, a good approach is to eliminate all meat-based foods, and focus entirely on algae, pondweed, canned peas, etc. Often fish won't show much interest at first, but don't worry -- they'll eat it when they're hungry! The more fibre, the better. It'll clear out their guts, and it's often constipation that causes Goldfish to swim oddly. In any case, with a healthier diet herbivorous fish will get the vitamins and minerals they need, and issues like bloating and even Dropsy can be reduced/cured. Hope this helps, Neale>>
Re: Help with Goldfish medication     1/15/17

Hi Bob and Neale,
<Cathie>
Thank you both for taking the time to read and respond to everything in my email.
<Welcome>
I did not know that canned Blood worms are bad. I had frozen them and cut it into small portions and was giving them a small portion every second day, but will throw them away now.
<Yes; I would>

Yesterday afternoon I noticed that the black Oranda with sleeping problems was looking quite shiny, even more then before, except for his top fin.
There were 2 small cloudy patches on his top fin. This morning he has a 3mm hole in the middle of the top fin, where one of the cloudy patches was.
I will do another 35% water change. I trust the Sterazin I put in 48 hours ago has either stressed him, or disrupted the water equilibrium and caused a bacteria spike.
<Possibly>
He also looks slightly more rounded today. No scales sticking out, just bigger around the rib cage just behind his head, but not at the back end.
I will not add any more Sterazin. I will swap to a completely greens based diet for the next 7 days, up the salt, and add Dr Tim's first defence, and continue with the water changes.
Should I also try Epsom salts which you mentioned to relieve bloating? It is a 255Litre aquarium, currently with 3 teaspoons of salt per 9 litres.
How much Epsom would be a good safe amount considering the current salt level?
<I would discontinue the aquarium salt use... You can search, see Neale and I's takes on its regular use. Not warranted. And yes to the possibility of using Epsom period>
Do you think the top fin hole is bacteria based from stress and will clear up on its own?
<Can't tell re origin, but yes to the latter>

Thank you again for your time,
Kindest regards
Cathie
<And you, Bob Fenner>
Re: Help with Goldfish medication; hypo.      1/15/17

Hi Bob and Neale,
<Cath>
I did the 70 Litre water change this morning as planned. I will ease off the salt level gradually. I will try feeding just greens for a week and see if the black Oranda's sleeping position changes and if this reduces his/her slightly enlarged chest.
Tomorrow I will add a low dose of Epsom salts to the aquarium. (it will be interesting to see if it makes them do any super-pooping!)
I am writing back to you again because I just noticed the blue Oranda (the largest of the 3) has one small white lump at the tip of his anal fin, and one small lump in the centre of the same fin. I have gone through pages and pages of info from your amazing website and have concluded that the small white lumps are bacterial.
<Not necessarily; no. "Just" bumps at times... similar to humans>
I think that my initial panic of parasites may be a bit silly. Surely if they had parasites I would have known it months ago, and they would be lethargic, lacking in appetite, clamping their fins, have some sort of ulcers or specs, and not be active and social.
<The parasites would have had to come from somewhere... biological>
The only parasite that I could find that might stay hidden could be internal worms or external Costia. But everything I read says Costia causes clamped fins and a slimy coating, and that intestinal worms causes wasting. My fishes are not slimy
and they are quite fat!
I have always had a concern about bacteria though. Goldfish are water piggies and even with strict cleaning regimes, sometimes things can go astray, especially in warmer water, and when they are feeling stressed.
I apologise for all my crazy panicking, I don't have too much experience with sick fishes, prevention is better than cure.
But, I lost a fish to Dropsy,
<Or rather, a "dropsical condition"; numerous etiologies possible>

so I am definitely doing something wrong. If the Dropsy was caused by a bacterial infection (rather than parasites)
from either impacted eggs, or an impacted intestine from constipation,
would this bacteria multiply in the water and cause the fin issues that I am seeing now on my remaining fishes?
<Sometimes simply "weak genes". More common as time goes by with these mass-produced, too-inbred strains>
Now I think about it more, when I removed the Dropsy fish and put her into a quarantine tank, within hours her fins looked like they had been shredded. I just assumed her fins went like this because her immune system had given up because of the intense infection. I know that low levels of bacteria are always present in the water, and the fishes immune system usually keeps them at bay. This fin shredding bacteria would have been present on her in the main tank before I had a chance to isolate her. I hadn't thought about the bacteria that was on her fins until now, I was only thinking about the fishes eating her bacteria ridden faeces.
Do you think that any (or all) of the following is enough bacterial evidence for me to worry or warrant any form of treatments for my remaining fishes?

i.e.. (1) the sudden case of dropsy (+ her shredded fins) and consequent loss of this one fish 9 days ago
(2) all fishes displaying the stringy faeces, and crumbly not formed faeces
(3) the smallest Oranda with one small split in his tail (that has not healed at all in 6 days - strange because any splits caused by damage from netting etc seem to have healed rapidly in past experiences)
(4) the black Oranda with night time surface sleeping, and some surface chomping. (and possibly slightly weaker swimming action - tipping sideways in the water current when mouthing gravel, and getting knocked out of the way by the other fishes when they are "schooling" or in a foraging frenzy)
(5) the black Oranda with a slightly enlarged chest, best described as a slight "hump" under his/her chin, where the front fins join the body.
(6) the black Oranda with slightly dull/greyish patches on his top fin which turned into a 3mm hole overnight
(7) the blue Oranda with a new small white lump on the tip of his anal fin, and a lump on the centre of the same fin
<No>
I do have Myxazin, Pimafix and Melafix in my cupboard if any of these are needed, as well as (and I hope I never need to use these antibiotics: Octozin/dimetridazole, Tetracycline Hydrochloride, and Triple Sulfa). I will also soon have the API General Cure (Metronidazole/Praziquantel combo). Plus the Sterazin mentioned earlier.
<Am done responding to this. NONE. B>

The loss of a fish made be go a bit crazy buying a whole lot of "just in case" medicines.
Please let me know your thoughts, and thank you for all your time,
Kindest regards,
Cathie

Re: Pbt     1/14/17
Hi did you get to look at these
<Already responded re. See WWM Dailies if you didn't receive directly. B>
Pbt     1/14/17

Any ideas?? Is it ich? Thanks
<What? Read>

Having trouble identifying this Acro hitchhiking crab     1/14/17
Hi!
<Hey Daniel>
I recently bought a small Acro colony and it had 3 crabs.
<Neat! Evidence of good handling>
I knew there was one in the colony, it's part of why I chose it. But I didn't expect 3! This album contains the pictures I'm referencing, feel free to host them on your site though https://imgur.com/a/5b3LK I was able to identify the small one (3rd & 4th pictures) as a Hairy blue-eyed Acro crab (Cymo andreossyi) which as I understand it will pick on
polyps.
<All will/do to extents. I'd keep them all... not that damaging in most circumstances>
On large colonies they're supposedly symbiotic, but dangerous to small colonies, so I tossed him in with my P. ciliata mantis shrimp. I was able to identify the other (last picture) as a Tetralia crab, safe and symbiotic, and put it in the tank with the coral. But I'm stuck on the one pictured in the 1st and 3rd pictures. The color matches the coral closely, and the body shape reminds me of a Trapezia which makes me think that it's commensal.
<I agree on both counts>
It's legs are a little bit fuzzy though. One claw is slightly larger and a little bit sharper, the other is smaller and has flat tips, clearly intended for gripping and scraping. I've been Googling for a couple hours now and haven't been able to get a good ID on him. In the meantime he's in a critter keeper with an airstone. So, should I put him with the colony
or would it be wiser to let him test his fate with the mantis?
<As stated, I'd keep all>
Thank you!
-Dan
<And you for sharing. Bob Fenner>



 


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