daily faqs34.htm

Update 2/9/2010 - Specialized FAQs Blogs: Just Freshwater, Brackish
Daily Q&A replies/input from the WWM Crew: Daniela Rizzo, Matthew Sellers, Simon Trippick, Adam Jackson, Adam Jenkins, Melinda Joakimson, Justin Norman, Will Neinast, Joshua Solomon, Mike Van Bibber, James (Salty Dog) Gasta, Michelle Lemech, Scott Fellman, Mike Maddox, Merritt Adkins, Scott Vallembois, Lynn Zurik, Darrel Barton, Sara Mavinkurve, Andrew Nixon, Neale Monks, Marco Lichtenberger, Chris Perivolidis, Eric Russell, Chuck Rambo, Mike Kaechele, Bob Fenner, are posted here. Moved about, re-organized into individual FAQs files daily or more often.
Current Crew Bios., Not so current Crew Bios
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Nudibranch ID Link – 02/08/10
Hi Guys/gals,
FWIW, I came across this site today and found it pretty interesting, especially with over 22,000 Nudibranch photos.
http://www.nudipixel.net/
Cheers,
James
<More Nudi/es than many porn sites! B>

Re: Pleco belly turning white? – 02/08/10
Hello Bob,
<Hello again>
Thank-you for answering so fast.
First, I must say I am very sorry for the size of my pictures I thought I had made them smaller and included a link for the larger size....
<Ahh! I understand>
I fear with what you have told me that Mr. Bigfish needs a larger home.
<Some Loricariid species get REALLY big indeed... I got to be in a "mud wangling contest" at a Tampa fish farm once with Pterygoplichthys that were well over two foot in length!>
He lives in a 30 gallon tank all to himself as he doesn't play well with others...He is 17".
<Yikes!>
How big of an aquarium should he have to be happy?
<Really? About six plus foot in length>
I change 50% water weekly and vacuum , I use a AquaClear powerhead undergravel filter that
pumps 175 gph, I keep his PH 7.0 and temp 75.
I also add PH up to keep up with the PH between water changes, as well as using a net to scoop the poop daily.
I read the link you sent...Thank-you. I couldn't find anything regarding not using Melafix on WWM...
<Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/phonyfwmeds.htm
or just use the search tool... on every page>
Although I did stop using and did a 50% water change this morning ...could you please send me a link?
<Done>
Love this site as your articles have helped me in the past to establish this clean home.
<Am very glad that we have aided your efforts>
I never expected to have such a big fish but he is my beloved pet and I want to spoil him as best I can.
Thank-you again for your time in helping me...
<Certainly welcome. BobF>

building a glass aquarium – 02/08/10
Hi, I was wondering if I build a Glass aquarium is it necessary to add the plastic rim around the top and bottom of the tank like the ones you see from the pet stores?
<Hello; no it's not necessary>
And if I do need them where would I find them or would I have to make them myself?
<Some commercial tank manufacturers will sell these to you. Read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/glstkmoldng.htm
or you can elect to fashion your own out of various materials>
I am planning on adding a strip approx 12" wide from the front to the back in the center.

The tank I am planning on is 60"X24"X24" I think this will end up being 150 gal and will be made from 9mm glass, that is thick enough isn't it
<Mmm, I'd use 12 mm... do read the linked files above the cited reference above. Bob Fenner>

Re: Air bubbles in fish, & cycling f', FW – 02/08/10
Thank you Bob:
<Welcome Gina>
I have not found the Bio-Spira but did use a product called Tetra Safe Start that is also supposed to one of the real ones. For some incredible reason they don't sell live bacteria in Canada and I had to have it smuggled across the border from the US.
<Mmmm. I don't like to encourage law-breaking, but I don't agree with such brainless carte-blanche censorship either>
Everyone here uses the chemicals that you have to continually add to the water, like Stability.
To complicate matters I have been treating for an intestinal parasite and I think it may also be partially responsible for the delayed cycling of my tank. I have more Safe Start on order, but the intestinal problem is just not going away so I may wait until my fish is clear to add it. In the mean time, I have purchased a really nice Eheim filter and added a UV filter to the mix to try to kill off any free-floating bugs that may be around. I know it isn't uncommon to lose a fish but I only have two Dragon-eye fancies and they are quite endearing little fellows so I will do all I can
to prevent a loss!
<Ahh! I feel similarly re my Ryukins>
I am on week three of Jungle anti-parasite medication and if that doesn't work I have some 100% Metronidazole that I'll try.
<Only treat once with this material. Very potent, hard on fish's kidneys>
It's really confusing as to what parasite might be affecting the poor fish as there seems to be so many! He still has stringy, clear feces even after the third cycle of meds. I'm concerned about bringing in the "big guns" as
I don't want to harm the fish with unnecessary meds, either. It really is a complicated matter- I can't believe that people perceive fish to be an easy
pet!
<Some much more/less than others for sure>
On a happy note, I have started fish training and my small fish (who has much better eyesight than my big bug-eyed fish) is responding quite well.
<Neat!>
The larger fish just can't see the food reward up close and it ends up floating away (much to the delight of the smaller fish).
Kind regards:
Gina de Almeida
<And you, BobF>

Re Stocking list; Cephalopholis urodelus – 02/08/10
Thanks
For my 150 gallon, my list should look like this:
1 harlequin tusk
1 yellow tang
1 v-tail grouper
1 blackspotted puffer
1 Picasso trigger
You said that the grouper "should be possible"...Why is that if you don't mind me asking?
<All fish are individuals, chances are high a V-tail grouper will work with your other tank mates. However, there are no 100% guaranties with such animals and thus “should be possible” is actually more exact than “will work”.>
Thanks for the quick response!
<Welcome. Marco.>

Porcupine Puffer Pop Eye? 08/02/10
Hello,
I frantically need help!!! My fish have had Ich for about 2 weeks. They were in a 30 gallon tank, but are now in 2 10 gallon tanks. I have already lost one Blue Jaw Female Trigger, Dragon goby and my other Male Blue Jaw
trigger is right behind them. He prob wont make the night. I have done everything I can think of. I was treating with Kich-Ich,
<A waste of time... had you read...>
but now I'm treating with Rid Ich.
<Are you joking and/or just trying to waste our time? Please! In matters as dire as this, READ... don't wait for asking questions! Rid-Ich is too toxic for treating Puffers... See WWM (try the search tool) re these products, Cryptocaryon and Diodontids...>
Kick-Ich wasn't working. But now I fear my Porcupine Puffer has pop eye.
<Induced by the treatment, doubtless>
There was a large particle of Ich on her eye 2 days ago, but now it has taken over here eye and its very clouded. It also now looks like the skin is peeling off the center of her eye. I'm suppose to dose the second treatment of Rid Ich tonight. I heard that it also works on infections.
<... the formalin is a biocide. It can/does kill all life>
But is this actually Popeye or just her eye trying to heal itself? Please I need your help. I love the hobby, but if I loose
<...>
all my fish, I don't want to get back into it. I attached a photo of the puffer.
Thanks so much for all of your amazing Wet Web Media staff. I really appreciate the help.
Kristina
<... Then use the site... as tens of thousands do every day. BobF, bummed for the life in your care>

Re: 08/02/10 Re: Velvet & Quinine
<Hello again Jason>
Wow that was fast.......lol.

Ok sounds good, I will be in touch with you. I just tested ammonia and I'm at almost zero but nitrite are between 0 and .25ppm.
<This will be ok, keep at it>
So I guess I'm nearing the end of the mini cycle. Which bottled bacteria do you feel is the most effective?
<I've used a couple and found Hagens Cycle to be the best, but there are many I have not tried at all>
And do you like Nite-out?

If the bio rings did have encysted parasites the Quinine would still kill them correct?
<No, it won't. If it did then no-one would ever use anything else. To my knowledge there is no chemical that will kill these and not kill everything else, my understanding is that all act on the free swimmers. You will probably be ok here though, but if you are nervous (like me) I would put some inert sponge in a filter in the QT and gradually remove the bio rings bit by bit once you have the ammonia under control, and before you finish the treatment course>
And would the Quinine be just as effective when just treating the water in a QT with no fish?
<? why would you want to do this? You mean in your display sans fish? No.>
All these questions I know.......sorry.
<No problem>
Thanks Simon
<Ok!>

Re: Brown Algae 2/9/10
Any ideas on where I might purchase these plants online. I'm not having any luck.
<I'm in the UK, so that's the only place I can speak about from experience.
I've received good plants from both Java Plants and Green Line.
http://www.java-plants.com/
http://www.aquaticplants.eu.com/
You'd also want to visit the Tropica site, and have a look on their "Dealers" page to find a retailer near you. Even if that retailer doesn't have Indian Fern (Ceratopteris thalictroides) or Amazon Frogbit (Limnobium laevigatum) in stock, they will certainly be able to order them in for you.
http://www.tropica.com/default.asp
Finally, do try getting in touch with your local aquarium club. This is BY FAR the best value way to obtain aquarium plants. By their nature, aquarium plants are "weeds", and once established, most folks end up with cuttings they're only to happy to share with others.
Cheers, Neale>
Re: Brown Algae 2/9/10
Do you know if Amazon Frogbit is also known as Java Fern?
<No, it isn't. Java Fern (Microsorium pteropus) is a slow growing epiphyte, not a floating plant. Java fern is completely useless for algae control. It grows very slowly, and in fact is more likely to become an "algae magnet",
getting covered with hair algae and the like. The same holds true for Anubias, another epiphyte commonly traded. Both great plants, but useless
for algae control. Cheers, Neale.>

Re: Response to Neale Monks comments (RMF, feel free to chime in) 2/9/10
Neale,
I take no issue with you feeding your fish whatever you desire, I only question why you would recommend to someone that is already feeding a high quality food to their fish (Sunfish), one that the fish are already readily accepting & eating, and one that is highly recommended on this site by most of the various crew members, that it shouldn't be that persons staple food for that species of fish?
<I offer advice on the basis of personal experience rather than by channeling the opinions of other people. In this case, both my personal experience, and my training as a zoologist, leads be to be prejudiced towards offering a variety of different foods rather than one single food. I'm willing to be convinced that a single dried food can be worthwhile; I'm just not convinced yet. If I can offer an analogy, it's the argument that a single pellet feed is better for farmed chickens than allowing them to peck about the farmyard on whatever they want. In simple terms of feeding behaviour, yes, battery chickens will eat constantly, and yes, they grow very quickly. But there's a difference in the taste of farmyard chickens compared to battery chickens, which would seem to imply that their bodies react differently to mixed foods versus complete foods.>
I can understand offering alternative food stuffs, especially considering the Enneacanthus, but to simply discount alternatives due to your personal beliefs and/or feeding methods seems a bit over the top to me.
<Fair enough. But as I say, my approach is to tell people what's worked for me, not what someone else has told me. If you can convince me one particular brand of dried food is a perfect food for aquarium fish, then so much the better. I will bear that in mind.>
I'm not attempting to tell you or anyone else how to keep their fish, and as a forum advisor I personally find it rather cavalier that you would take it upon yourself to judge the quality, or discount the use of a pellet food that you yourself have never even tried.
<Not cavalier at all; quite the reverse. As I've said repeatedly, my aim is to tell people what I know works most of the time. It would be hypocritical of me to recommend people do certain things if I have no idea how good or bad that advice might be.>
Taking that attitude is only going to leave the hundreds/thousands of hobbyists that DO feed pellets and/or flake food as their fishes staple rather confused, and believing that they are doing something less than ideal for their fish, which couldn't be further from the truth.
<In your opinion.>
The vast majority of freshwater fishkeepers are simply not going to provide their fish with bog plants, forest leaves, fruits, seeds, etc, nor do they need to in order to keep their fish thriving in captivity. To state otherwise is downright ridiculous.
<I didn't say you need to feed your Severums leaves flown in from the tropical rainforests of South America! But I do believe you need to provide them with some green foods, whether tinned peas, cooked spinach, or whatever.>
I don't need to spend any time on Fishbase to have a solid grasp as to the nutritional requirements of freshwater fish, but thanks anyway. <sigh> I have already covered the *wide variety* concept, and how that can be fulfilled by a single product. (by using a *wide variety* of ingredients) I have also kept goldfish, numerous species, and fed them New Life Spectrum exclusively without a single constipation issue.
<Good for you.>
NLS contains fibre, and obviously in adequate quantity or myself & many other goldfish keepers would have had issues with their diet long ago.
<And yet me get lots of messages from people keeping constipated Goldfish, and in turn I recommend they feed them some cheap aquarium plants or cooked peas. I make no apologies for that. It's a workable solution that's easy to understand and doesn't demand people buy one particular brand of food.>
I've fed the same food to some of the most herbivorous cichlid species on the planet, such as Tropheus moorii, and Tropheops macrophthalmus. These fish are known to get bloat by even looking at them the wrong way, yet never a single gastointestinal issue in mine or my associates tanks. i.e.. No Constipation!
<Great.>
The reason that many commercial foods cause gastrointestinal issues in certain herbivorous species is due to excessive amounts of poorly digestible grains & grain by-products, not from a lack of fibre. Take a closer read of some of the ingredients used by the 2 brand names you mentioned, to a can of NLS. Ingredients such as corn flakes, dried bakery products, potato protein, soybean meal, ground rice, feeding oat meal, and MSG, will certainly never be found in a jar of New Life Spectrum.
<I'm glad to hear it.>
<<"Snails" is a class, Gastropoda, not a single species.>>
Touché Neale, but I'm rather certain that within the various species used & fed in captivity by Robert Rickett's to his puffers (if in fact more than one species was indeed fed), the basic nutritional content (amino acids, lipids, etc) would have been near exactly the same. If I'm not mistaken one of his Figure 8's survived 16 years in captivity on that diet, and that diet alone.
<I don't think he only fed them snails, and 16 years is very unusual for this species, just as humans living to 120 is pretty uncommon! Most don't live that long, and it's not because they're necessarily kept badly, any more than the fact most humans don't get to be 120 isn't because they live bad lives.>
You keep mentioning Panaque, as though these fish won't survive in captivity without wood. Are you certain of that?
<The science is debated, but Jay Nelson and Hiro Nonogaki have performed experiments where Panaque put on weight when fed nothing but wood, while Hypostomus fed just wood lose weight. Wild Panaque have guts filled with wood chips, and there's some evidence their guts contain bacteria that break down wood. Nonogaki further observes that Panaque in captivity are short-lived if given a high-protein diet. He's looked at a large number of specimens that died relatively young under aquarium conditions, and a common thread is fat deposits around the internal organs lacking in wild fish. He recommends a low protein diet, primarily wood and vegetables. Certainly, my own specimen mostly gets plant-based foods including wood, and she's 16 years old now and seemingly in good health. On the other hand, there are other researchers who argue than Nelson and Nonogaki are mistaken. Donovan German argues that Panaque are simply detritivores, and that the experiments performed by Nelson and Nonogaki weren't sufficiently rigorous.>
Can you provide any research papers that prove this to be the case?
<I'd encourage you do to the research yourself. The names of the researchers are above. I long ago added some references to the Wikipedia article on Panaque, so that's a starting point.>
While many Plecos may be able to readily consume wood, I believe that what they are really after is the microfilm that is found growing on the wood, and not the wood itself.
<Perhaps not in the case of Panaque.>
If you feel this to be a life threatening issue for the fish, the easy work-around to that is simply keep some bog wood in the tank.
<Indeed.>
The gut analysis of Tropheus moorii in some studies will show large amounts of sand & detritus, yet just as a wood eating Panaque, I think it's safe to assume that this is nothing more than a by-product while this genus scrape the Aufwuchs from sun up to sun down.
<In Panaque is apparently is wood chips, not detritus. Their unusual teeth do seem more heavy duty than the rasping teeth of Hypostomus.>
I'm quite certain that if one was to keep a colony of Tropheus in captivity in a tank with a sand substrate, and offered them nothing more than algae, and the waste produced from that diet, you'd soon find out that Tropheus require far more than algae, sand, and detritus to keep them in optimum health.
<Perhaps.>
Studies of SA stingrays have shown these freshwater fish to contain plant litter when their stomach contents have been examined, which was concluded to be related to the "accidental ingestion" of these items while using suction to capture their prey. I don't know of a single freshwater stingray owner (and I know quite a few, including several breeders) that feed their rays leaf litter, etc, in order to mimic their "natural" diet in the wild.
<Actually, the "accidental ingestion" of plant material is extremely important to carnivores. It's widely observed that the chyme, the partially digested plant matter in herbivore guts, is eaten rather than rejected by carnivores. Indeed, carnivores tend to eat the guts before they eat the meat. If you keep cats, and your cats catch birds, you'll find the birds are eviscerated and the wing muscles -- the white meat -- is often left untouched.>
Please do not take this discussion as my way is better than your way, that is not my intention. I am merely pointing out that like most things in this hobby there are many ways to get the same end results.
<Yes.>
In the future you might want to consider that before slamming the door on something that others choose to use or do, especially when you have personally never given that method or product a fair evaluation in your own set ups.
<As I say, I prefer to quote from personal experience. Should someone send me a sample of a particular brand of flake food, I'd be happy to try it out.>
And with regards to "feeling the loss", it's difficult to miss something that you have never experienced. :)
NRW
<Would encourage you to frame your argument in favour of dried foods via an article, perhaps for Conscientious Aquarist. As editor, I'd be more than happy to run such a piece. Cheers, Neale.>

Feeding New Life Spectrum Exclusively? 2/9/10
Hello Crew,
<Hello Judy,>
I feel obliged to shed my lurker status and chime in on the New Life Spectrum debate. While I have no doubt NLS is a fine food, (I feed it to my Cichlids, but do augment with a wide variety of wet-frozen and green foods)
I must side with Neale here.
<Oh?>
One of the reasons given by the inventor, Pablo Tepoot, of this food, is that pet dogs and cats are often fed dried food, usually a single brand, exclusively. I subscribed to this theory as well, feeding my two cats the premium (most expensive) brand available at my veterinarian's office, and heeding the dire warnings on the cat-food packages against switching foods suddenly. During the final years of my cats' lives, they succumbed to a series of intestinal maladies, including cancer, which finally claimed them.
My vet confided, during their illness, that she no longer recommended feeding dried foods exclusively (even though we were surrounded by vast quantities of the stuff), and recommended a mixed diet of mostly meat, certain vegetables, and canned food.
<Indeed, this is true. Especially for older cats. But one vet friend of mine explained it thus. We give pet cats and dogs far more digestible protein than they'd get in the wild. Instead of a mix of fur, feathers, meat, and guts, we just give them the meat. So their kidneys have to work much harder to process all the surplus urea, and effectively their kidneys wear out faster. That's why failing kidneys and eventually renal failure is so incredibly common in old cats. Ideally, we'd cut down the protein in their diet dramatically. It sounds gruesome, but serving up a whole mouse,
like you'd do for a pet snake, would actually be better. With dogs at least it's pretty easy to add pasta, carrots, and other such things to their diet, since dogs are omnivores, like us, and can digest all sorts of things. But cats are really, really fussy.>
I was grateful for her honesty, for this new diet did indeed help (projectile vomiting is not one of the more fun aspects of cat ownership).
I realize that this anecdote is hardly a scientific study; my point is that some veterinarians are now recommending *against* the exclusive dried-food diet for pets, even though they make a tidy profit from selling it.

If a single dried-food diet was feasible, why has nothing been invented for humans? Precisely for the reasons Neale stated: fibre, and the safety net that a varied diet offers in terms of vitamins and other intangibles we have yet to discover (plus, humans wouldn't stand for it).
<Yes, I agree.>
Sure, it's easy to drop in a bunch of pellets, and my fish do love the NLS food, but I will continue to feed them a varied diet. And the new cats that I'll be getting from the shelter in a month or so will see a lot of variety as well.
<Good luck with your new cats! I'm quite a fan of cats, and have been owned by various Siamese, Burmese, and ginger moggies over the years.>
Thanks,
Judy
<Thanks for writing in. Cheers, Neale.>

Re: Your opinion? Congo Tetras... 2/9/10
Good afternoon Neale, you wise British savant knowledgeable in the way of fish.
<Hello,>
I have yet another question. My Congo tetras are nipping my butterfly fish (and sometimes stealing their food).
<Unusual. Congo tetras are not normally nippy. Indeed, they're usually the ones that get nipped!>
The plant is very well planted on the bottom and half the top is totally covered in floating plants as well. The floating plants have roots that hang at least 4 inch's in many cases. Its total jungle in there.
<Sounds great!>
My eight Congos normally only bug each other in their endless war of dominance, however when its feeding time they drive the butterfly's crazy nipping on the dorsal fins. Is separation the only option?
<Does sound it.>
Rob
Oh and the dominate Congo's rear fin is developing a black triangular extension, its small but noticeable. Is this normal?
<Yes; the tail fin of Congo tetras develop a black band running from the peduncle the edge of the fin, like a horizontal stripe. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Your opinion? Now onto Exodon... 2/9/10
Thanks man. The tank is coming along great with your help.
Rob
<Glad to help.>
PS: watching Congos eat a full grown insect is a surprisingly educational experience. They are a hunting pack like any other eh.
<Oh yes, indeed! Piranhas are simply scaled up tetras. Do look out for Exodon paradoxus. Very beautiful fish, and if kept in large groups, quite peaceful towards one another. But throw in a piece of tilapia fillet and they go bananas, a true feeding frenzy. Because they're so small, and both pretty and active, they are far better pets than Piranhas, in my opinion, which tend to be rather boring. They also do well on flake, so aren't difficult to maintain.
Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Your opinion? More re Exodon 2/9/10
Interesting you should mention them. I have been planning a second large tank, probably 90gal and was thinking about the famous bucktooth tetra.
<Very good! If you can get them, and keep enough for them, they're good fun.>
My goal would be to replicate their natural environment as closely as practical.
<Similar to that of other tetras, really. Swimming space, plenty of shade and overhead vegetation (they're notorious jumpers). Likes a good current, but not turbulent.>
What tank set up would you recommend?
<Despite their small size (10-12 cm long is about how big they get in a home aquarium) I'd recommend a fairly large tank, so you can keep a good number. There's debate about the minimum needed to avoid cannibalism and
bullying, some say 10, some say 12, but if you plan for around 20, you won't go wrong. I'd be looking at something around the 150-180 litre, 30-40 gallon mark.>
Any tankmates?
<Heavens no! Their buck teeth do seem to be about pulling scales and fins from other fish.>
I'm up very early each morning and so enjoy the night shift as well as pretty day fish.
<Well, these are probably crepuscular, much like other predatory characins, so won't be at all bothered by early mornings, late nights. In fact giving them two good feeds per day, with 10-12 hours between for the filter to mop
up the mess, is probably ideal. Hungry fish are more likely to be cannibalistic than well fed specimens. This sort of "overfeeding" is precisely how public aquaria keep sharks in tanks seemingly filled with bite-size prey.>
On that note, what type of lighting would you recommend for night time viewing?
<I'd have thought a simple Grolux tube would be ideal, bringing out their reds.>
Forgive my spelling and grammar I'm doing this on the phone crammed into the subway.
Rob
<Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Your opinion? Now red light/ing... 2/9/10
I'm thinking about a dim red light that would hopefully trick the fish into thinking that I'm not around and that it is truly night.
<I see. Well, there is a "moonlight" tube on the market, and this can work well. Alternatively, having bright lights during the night for the plants, and then a single dim Grolux or even some red LED lights during the day, will switch the fish into a different night/day cycle from reality. This is what they do in zoos for the nocturnal mammals. Works quite well with catfish and the like.>
I have a number of nocturnal fish that I really enjoy watching with my 5 am coffee. My butterfly fish for example are great fun at that hour.
<Ah! Sounds fun.>
Rob
<Cheers, Neale.>

Help, please 2/9/10
As retired senior citizens, we find the cost of pond algaecide exorbitant,
<And also pointless.>
and hope you can help us find something less expensive, which won't kill our goldfish. It's an outdoor pond, about 30'x40' with waterfalls and a bubbler.
Our current product, Algaefix, from Aquarium Pharmaceuticals, Inc., PO Box 218, Chalfont, PA, contains as its active ingredient
4.5%Poly/oxyethylene(dimethyliminio)ethylene(dimethyliminio)ethylene dichloride).
<Here's the thing. Sure, you can kill algae, but unless conditions in the pond change, the algae will be back within weeks. So why bother? Moreover, a bunch of dead algae will rot, remove oxygen from the water, and likely
stress, perhaps kill, your fish.>
A friend said that's similar to Lysol's ingredients, but we are afraid to try anything for fear of harming our fish or aquatic plants.
<The "similar" is the thing. Plus the dose. A very, very dumb idea this.
Leave the household cleaners in the house, and use only approved medications and treatments in your pond.>
We have a similar question for our 'Hydrostat Dry Pond Bacteria" a natural blend of beneficial bacteria and enzymes that help keep pond water clear.
Safe for fish and plants."
<Again, pointless.>
Would appreciate any advice you might be able to give us. Many thanks.
<Ellen, in this case you need to find out why your pond has too much algae.
Some algae is inevitable, and indeed beneficial, since algae is a major part of the diet of your fish, and when the water gets cold, should be their exclusive diet. On the other hand, if you have too many fish in too little water, too much direct sunlight, and you don't have fast-growing plants to outcompete the algae, algae can become a problem. Fixing the pond conditions will help, and UV sterilisers are extremely helpful at eliminating algae that turns water green (does nothing for blanketweed and other attached algae types). Do read Bob's excellent summary, here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/PondSubWebIndex/pdalgcontrol.htm
Cheers, Neale.>

Black molly, hlth..... env., no reading, U.S. invades yet another sovereign nation, discovers murdering other countries citizens doesn't bring freedom to anyone... 2/9/10
I have a female molly who recently started shaking, she stays in one spot and just shimmies her body back and forth. When I was observing her I noticed her belly was a little square, and she has some white spots on her
belly. I have only had my tank for just over a week, its a ten gallon tank with 3 black mollies, 3 red wag platy, and a male Betta.. I dont think the spots are ich because they dont look like salt residue on her, just a coloration difference. she also has one white spot where the babies would come out of. none of my other fish have any problems, I dont know what's wrong with her? oh, and she's been doing it for just over 48 hrs. could this just be a reaction from pregnancy?
<It's unlikely she's sick because she's pregnant (or been pregnant).
Mollies are sensitive fish, and need good conditions. Your tank is far too small, and I'd bet some money she's in freshwater rather than brackish water conditions. While brackish water conditions aren't 100% essential, they do make keeping Mollies so much easier. Use marine salt mix (like you'd use in a reef tank, e.g., Instant Ocean) at a dose of 3-5 grammes per litre. Your Platies will be fine with this, but the Betta will need to be rehomed. Bettas and Mollies aren't compatible. One problem with Mollies is they need very warm water, around 28 C, and this can stress the Platies, so ensure water quality and water circulation are both good. Without these fixes, this fish will die. Do read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/mollies.htm
As always, read about your fish prior to purchase. Cheers, Neale.>

Oto Pics please? 2/9/10
Hello, Sorry to bother you guys again... but could you send me a picture of a healthy and an unhealthy Oto? bottom and side view is best. All the images on the web seem the same and I'm not good enough to tell them apart.
Thanks!
<Do see here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/Otocinclusart.htm
As with other Loricariidae, healthy Otocinclus have convex bellies; unhealthy ones concave bellies. Very ill fish have sunken eyes. It's a simple as that. I don't really recommend Otocinclus for casual aquarists because they are delicate, need specific foods, and tend to be short-lived in "average" aquaria lacking the oxygenation and water flow they appreciate. Cheers, Neale.>

Black Moor sick 2/9/10
I have a black moor that up until now has not had any issues.
<Almost always this "up until now" statement reveals an aquarium that is too small for Goldfish. In other words, the fish was fin in small aquarium when it was a baby, but once it reached a certain size, the aquarium became
overloaded, water quality dropped, and the fish got sick. I'll remind you that two Goldfish will need a tank around 30 gallons in size. Nothing smaller will work reliably.>
I have kept it in a tank with his Oranda buddy and never had any problems.
All of a sudden, the other evening I noticed over his eyes it looked like blue-ish tinted patches. They were so light that I thought maybe I was seeing things and I'd keep an eye on it. The next morning, I found my poor black moor trapped in a plant, almost dead.
<Not good...>
I released him and he was covered in white patches and had also gotten a puncture wound and split his dorsal fin. I immediately moved him to a hospital tank and all I had at the time was Tetra Lifeguard.
<A scattergun medication that doesn't work reliably against Finrot, which is likely the problem here.>
I added the tablet and also used MelaFix and PimaFix.
<Even more useless than Lifeguard.>
He is eating and swimming around but I'm still concerned. His color went from black to a rust color, the end of his fins are still a bit ragged and I have no idea how to tell if he acquired any kind of infection. Am I doing everything right? I want him to make a full recovery, especially as he is my favorite little guy. At what point can he be returned to his regular tank? Can salt be used in addition to the MelaFix and PimaFix?
<Salt isn't what you need here. Goldfish want hard, basic water, not salty water. Aim for pH 7.5, 10+ degrees dH.>
He is currently recuperating in a 5 gallon tank. Thanks for your help.
<5 gallon tanks are lethal. Treat him in the main aquarium, against Finrot, remembering to remove carbon first (if you use carbon in the filter).>
Angela
<Cheers, Neale.>

FW wet dry... New World Cichlid filtr. 2/9/10
Hello there,
<Hello,>
I am in the process of setting up a 135 gallon fw tank. I have a fairly large Oscar, a jack Dempsey, and a large Pleco. I am planning on getting them a few more tankmates once the tank is up and running. I am also planning on having plenty of live plants throughout the tank. I have some aggregate gravel as my substrate. I am building a wet/dry filter and just had a few questions. I am setting it up very similar to the Eshopps 150-cs, but I was curious as what I should use for mechanical filtration. A few of the sources I have read on the internet say polyfill is the best, but I wanted to check with you guys before I made a purchase. Any suggestions would be very much appreciated. Thank you very much for your time.
Cheers!
Blake
<Yes, a wet/dry filter will work. However, the reason they're rarely used in freshwater tanks is that they drive off carbon dioxide, and that makes it difficult for plants to grow. Floating plants will be fine though, since they get their CO2 from the air, and given Oscars and JDs uproot plants anyway, that's likely the way you'd have to go. In terms of mechanical filtration, it really doesn't matter what you use. There's no "best" really with mechanical filter media, since anything fine enough to trap silt will do. Mechanical filters are let down by how often *you clean them*, since
they're only as good as the last time they were rinsed off; leave them clogged up with silt for a couple of weeks, and they won't do anything at all. So choose something easy to clean and (if necessary) cheap to replace.
Cheers, Neale.>
Re: FW wet dry
If that is the case then what would be a more appropriate method of filtration?
<Well, depends what you're after. Since Oscars and JDs dig, and Plecs can be pretty hard on small plants, your best bets in terms of plants for the bottom of the tank will be Anubias, Java fern, and if you can get it, Bolbitis. All three are slow-growing, so have little impact on water quality or algae control, but they are pretty and difficult for fish to destroy (Java fern in particular seems to taste horrid, so most fish ignore it). Most critically, they are grown attached to rocks and bogwood, so won't be bothered if your cichlids dig up the sand or gravel. If they get moved about, that won't bother them either; just put 'em back where you want them, or move the plants around so your fish have territories. Throw some floating plants into the tank for algae control, and you're all set.
Anyway, if you grow these, you're able to use a reverse-flow undergravel filter, which is perhaps the best all-around filter for large fish. Unlike other filters, these have water pushing UP through the gravel, and this moves faeces and detritus into the water current, and then the canister filter can remove them easily. So you get good water quality PLUS good water clarity, without having to constantly clean the gravel. Having said this, because cichlids dig, they can "short circuit" undergravel filters of all types, so you will need to place a gravel tidy under the top half inch or so of gravel, so that the cichlids can do minimal damage to the filter bed. If this doesn't appeal, and you really do want live plants, then the best filters are those that "splash" the water the least, since the splashing is what causes the CO2 to be thrown out. Plants with roots hate undergravel filters, so that's another issue too. Regular canisters are perhaps the best, since these can be rigged with spray bars just under the waterline, so they ripple the outgoing water rather gently. The downside of course is that the less circulation of the water there is, the happier the plants will be, but that's the reverse of what big cichlids want. It's perhaps best to think about what sort of aquarium you want: an underwater garden, or a community of cichlids with just a few plants as a backdrop.
There are some cichlids that love plants, including (surprisingly to some) quite a few Malawian and Tanganyikan species that live in the vegetated parts of these lakes, often around beds of Vallisneria. Since Vallisneria is remarkably easy to grow, and comes in a variety of colours and sizes, that can be a nice way to combine cichlids, plants, and a few catfish.
Cheers, Neale.>

Ick and Tangs, & worthless med.s/ f' 2/9/10
I have a 100 gal saltwater tank and recently was wiped out by a combination of Ick and Velvet. I tried a combination of Kick Ick and Rally and, as advertised, they did not kill the coral. The problem is they killed the fish.
<Or at least allowed the parasites to do so.>
Anyway, I am making several water changes and want to introduce new Tangs.
I have read that the combination of an intermittent Diatom Filter and a UV filter might go a long way in preventing and eliminating unwanted parasites. However, these articles are dated. Do you recommend this combination of filters or is my time and money better spent concentrating on proper quarantine procedures and water quality? Thanks.
<QT and water quality by far are more effective.>
<Chris>

Re: 07/02/10 Regal Angelfish Help 2/9/10
<Hello Terry>
Thanks for your speedy reply.
<No problem>
While my wife and I were at the LFS we were watching it eat off of just about every piece of coral that was in the same tank and it was already pretty nice and fat.
<Mmm, ok>
I did not do any research before buying the fish, to be honest it was the first time I had seen a Regal Angelfish.
<Buying on impulse is NOT to be recommended>
My wife was in love at first sight.
<Yes, this is a very beautiful fish>
My nitrate levels are also at zero, I have a ASM-G4 series protein skimmer that works great. I am also making a refugium that should be up and running by this weekend.
<Good move>
I contacted the LFS and he said that I could return the fish if it didn't start eating, <ok> he also advised me to go to a local super market and pick up a couple fresh muscle, cut it open and put half in the tank for about three hours and see if he would eat that.
<Yes, or a cockle as recommended - does sometimes work>
As soon as it hit the water the Regal Angel and Powder Blue Tang was all over it. I have also started seeing it pick off the rocks.
<This is good news!>
Maybe there is hope after all.
<Mmm, this fish, even when feeding, typically starves as it is not provided with the 'right stuff'. I would purchase some New Life Spectrum pellet food for this pronto and try to get it to feed on this>
I also picked up some frozen food that consist of muscle. Any further advice would be appreciated.
<Given, plus algae, vitamins. You need to keep the meaty foods to a minimum they are too fatty long term>
I attached a couple of pictures, I hope you do not mind. As you can see I have tons of live rock with a lot of caves and hiding places. The LFS said the fish came from the Red Sea area, but his chest is both yellow and grey so not sure on that.
<This looks like an Indonesian specimen to me>
Thanks
<No problem Terry, good luck with this fish, and do buy some NLSpectrum foods and update us on your progress>
Terry
<Simon>

Re: 05/02/10 Clam and Hammer Coral 2/9/10
Hello Simon:
<Hello Megan>
Thanks so much for the reply...
<Pleasure!>
Yep clammy was down current from hammer...and it is a small tank...noticed the hammer was affecting the other corals too...so I removed the hammer and took it back to LFS.
<Ok, probably the best move overall>
If it lives, I get my $$$ back...and I will buy something more compatible with the xenia, mushrooms, Zoanthids & clam. I have your suggestion, plus bought a book of corals so I can ID them when I am at the LFS...just in case anyone gives me bad info or I am tempted to buy something again based on looks alone.
<Mmmm, the less different types you have, the better your present population will do.... I would hold off on buying anything for now>
On an unrelated note, clam has never really attached so far, he does still move around in general...but I keep putting him back on the rocks....which is the best light. I understand that this is not so bad for a young clam, to jump around, if he otherwise appears healthy. I keep hoping that one day he'll finally settle down...but for now it does
not bother me the way it used to!
<Hmmm, I do not know too much about clams I am sorry to say. Try here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/tridacnidart.htm>
Sincerely,
Megan
Cheers, Simon>

Serpae tetras - Neale's Recent Post 2/9/10
I'd like to thank Neale for mentioning the trouble with these demon fish.
<Oh! Another "once bitten, twice shy" story, I suspect!>
I had done my research but unfortunately there are plenty of big sites that will lead you astray on this fish.
<Indeed.>
I worked up to 7 of these fish as per other sites. More in the school less likely for trouble.
<Is (usually) true with Tiger barbs, where the nipping is more about frustrated social behaviour than anything else. But Serpae tetras and their close kin are fin-eaters in the wild, and they view fins the same way puffers view snails: potential meals!>
What I got after adding some peppered Cory catfish was nothing I've read anywhere else. The tetras really attacked their fins and what was most disturbing was that the tetras would lie in wait. They would often hover at 90 degree angle to the catfish waiting for the right moment to strike.
<Oh yes. These fish have evolved to feed on fins, and this stealthy behaviour is precisely what they do.>
The cats would be on the bottom of tank doing what they do. I'm not talking about a nip as the catfish would intrude on the space of the tetras. I mean a deliberate wait to attack regardless of where the victim was.
<To be fair, Corydoras are fairly stupid fish that don't seem to learn anything. Which is why they're so often bullied (supposedly even blinded) by dwarf cichlids. They never cotton on to parts of the tank being off-limits, so keep blundering into trouble. By contrast, I have some Dwarf Synodontis in a pufferfish aquarium, and they quickly learned to keep a low profile!>
The other thing they would do is "head butt" the catfish as they came down from getting breath at the top of the tank. Never on the way up but always on the way down.
<Yikes!>
This would have made good video to show how evil these fish can be but I had to separate them before causing any more harm. The cats simply had lost spirit and would only come out when they had to and race back to the bottom in order to be safe.
<Yes, this is how bullied Corydoras behave. Wild Corydoras are said to be nocturnal, and they will revert to that behaviour if the aquarium isn't peaceful.>
Petco a large chain here does warn that these fish can be nippers.
<Good.>
PetSmart the other huge chain does not. They list them as community fish on their tanks.
<Bad.>
Even my LFS hadn't heard of tetras behaving this badly. I'd like to see these fish de-listed from the community categories at the retailers.
<Up to a point, I agree. While hardy and very pretty, it's a difficult fish. One problem is that there are multiple Hyphessobrycon of similar appearance, and some are perfectly peaceful while others are nippy. So on the one hand you have the Flame Tetra (Hyphessobrycon flammeus) which is shy, even timid, and on the other hand the Common Serpae (Hyphessobrycon eques), a very vicious little nipper! I suspect that some reports that Serpae tetras are "community fish" come down to misidentifications. Again, we come to this issue with common names rather than Latin names being used too loosely.>
I would also like to see when recommendations for a particular tetra be made, that this fish be specifically mentioned as one that should be kept on their own.
<Well, Serpae tetras can be superb fish *on their own* in things like Amano-type tanks, where their small size, bright colours, and schooling behaviour can work well. On the other hand, there are many other tetras I'd recommend ahead of them for community tanks. Among the best are things like Pristella Tetras in terms of hardiness, Bleeding Heart tetras as companions for medium sized fish, and Congo tetras where you're after show-stopping fish that grab the eye.>
Anyway, thanks Neale for spreading the truth on this fish.
<Thanks for writing! Cheers, Neale.>

Lighting For 6 Gallon Nano/Coral Compatibility 2/9/10
Hi guys,
<Hello Howie>
Once again, great work with the site - very helpful and very informative.
<Thank you.>
Just have a quick question regarding the lighting for my 6 gallon Nano. The tank is 11 inches deep...and i <shift key disabled> have 1 x 24W daylight power compact and 1 x 24W marine blue power compact sitting about 10cm
above the water. The tank originally came with a single 18W 50/50 tube so I decided to upgrade it. my question is whether or not the lights I have now are too strong for corals such as Duncans, Fungia, Acans and mushrooms. The Duncans and mushrooms in particular have not really seemed to take too much of a liking to the new lights with the Duncan's polyps more retracted than extended and the mushrooms kind of wrinkled up (note: corals were
introduced after new lights were installed). There are two 130gallon/h pumps (return pump and internal powerhead) responsible for flow - return outlet is on top right corner of back wall and flow is directed at the bottom left front of tank; powerhead has spray bar with flow directed along horizontal plane of water surface.
Water parameters:
Amm: 0
No2: 0
No3: 0
Phos: 0
pH: 8.1
<Your lighting and flow rate are a little strong for both the Duncan Coral and Mushroom Anemone. Both prefer low water flow and low to moderate light intensity. Another problem you have is that Mushroom Anemones, Acanthastrea, and Fungia are noxious in terms of allelopathy and can/will create the problem you describe when crowding together in very small systems. The more peaceful corals such as your Duncan will be the first to react.
In larger volumes of water, one can get away with it using a protein skimmer and a good grade of chemical media to tone down/remove the noxious compounds.
Another area of concern is that it is very difficult to maintain steady water parameters in such a small volume of water. Sensitive corals will not tolerate this fluctuation in water chemistry.>
Many thanks in advance!
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Howie

Coralline Algae Question/No Useful Information 2/9/10
I've recently had a die off of coralline algae in my saltwater tank. The tank's been up and running for a year with fish in it and my water parameters are all in order. Everything else in the tank is fine including my corals.
My basic water change routine is 20% every 2 weeks.
<Not much useful information here for me to provide any worthy suggestions, but you can read here and related articles/FAQ's for information on growing/maintaining coralline algae.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/corallinealg.htm>
Thank you for your time.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Jeanette

Flame Angel/Angel Disease 2/9/10
Good day Crew!
<Hello Martha>
I read on here that Flame (dwarf) angels usually come in with at least the beginnings of ich/velvet causing parasites, so a dipping and QT are recommended. My question today is, after the FW dipping and QT, how hardy are they in terms of being susceptible to those parasites or other diseases afterwards?
<Much will depend on tank size, good nutrition, water quality, and last but not least, selection.>
Are they aggressive towards butterflies?
<Generally, no, unless placed in crowded systems and, more than I have the time to say can be read here and related articles/FAQ's
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/fishes/angels/Centropyge/loricula.htm>
Thanks as always for your insight.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Martha

Re: Crocea Suicide Attempt... – 02/09/10
Thanks for the quick response.
<<Quite welcome>>
The clam is in fact looking great today. The mantle is fully extended, and the portion that was touching the Discosomas looks unscathed.
<<Excellent>>
The clam was contacting a Montipora capricornis in its original spot, but they had grown into one another maybe three months ago. Could that be the irritant?
<<Possibly...>>
The mantle would rest on the Monti when it was extended. I have never had trouble with Acroporids irritating my clams in the past so I thought nothing of it. This clam actually used to reside nestled into an Acropora colony with no evident nettling.
<<Though some have stated that these clams (Tridacnids) are very “tolerant” of contact with other cnidarians, I have to think there is a “limitation” to that contact…perhaps variable among the differing species and even among different specimens>>
I also wanted to inquire if the scutes that were broken in the fall have the potential to harm the mantle.
<<Sure…if jagged/sharp enough>>
They are sort of jagged. I hate to sound like a mother with a newborn, but I worry about all my critters.
<<There’s likely little reason to worry, but if these breaks are overly sharp/pointy, you could remove the clam from the water (make sure it hasn’t reattached to the substrate first) and try to file them down a bit with a “fine cut” metal file…or better yet, one of those small fine “diamond-grit” files used to sharpen carbide router bits and the like>>
I see too much slaughter working in the aquarium industry here in So Cal. Last week I saw a 6' black-tipped reef shark crammed into a tank at All Seas and it cut deep.
<<Sad indeed>>
Thanks again for the help.
Lanny
<<Is my pleasure… Eric Russell>>

Elegance coral and bubble tip anemone, incomp. 2/9/10
Hi WWM crew!
<Howdy Adam>
I have a quick question regarding the speed and severity of allelopathic interactions between cnidarians and Euphyllia sp.
<Can be quick (hours) and severe to the max. (death)>
A friend of mine is moving but has a weeks worth of lag time between taking down his current tank and setting it back up in the new place. He has a much smaller holding tank that he's been able to put most of his coral in the mean time, but he also has a very small rose bubble tip anemone (maybe an inch and a half across) that decided it hated the smaller/dimmer temporary accommodations and began walking all over the place. In such small confines, he was afraid that it would either damage or be damaged by the other corals
<Mmm, Anemones/Actinarians aren't corals>
and asked if I would take it until his system is back up and running at his new place. I spent the entire day yesterday getting it to attach itself firmly to a small piece of rock, put mesh socks over my Vortech MP10's
<Smart>
(I've had bad luck with anemones in the past... one of the many reasons I don't want to own one) and stayed up till 1 in the morning making sure it wouldn't move.
<Mmmm>
However this morning, my otherwise incredibly robust Australian elegance coral wouldn't open. At all. The branching frogspawn on the other side of the tank was also a shadow of what it normally is half an hour after the
lights turn on. Is this kind of reaction this possible overnight?
<Oh yes>
The elegance coral is about 6 inches across when it's fully open and the frogspawn is at least a foot across when it fully extends. I know that cnidarians in the long term are not really compatible with other aggressive species, especially the Euphyllia,
<More so the Catalaphyllia>
but I had thought that such a great size disparity and short time around one another wouldn't have been a problem, or at least if it were a problem it would inhibit the anemone as opposed to the established tank inhabitants
(something I warned my friend of, though we thought it was the lesser of two evils at the time). Is immediate removal of that tiny anemone required?
<Yes I would... and water change/s, and use of chemical filtrants. Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/cnidcompppt.htm
and the linked files above...>
The only other thing that I can think of would be that yesterday I was also trying to bring my calcium levels up from 360ppm in to the 400ppm range. I was adding Seachem reef calcium and getting rather frustrated with how
little impact it was making on measurable Ca levels until I sat down and did the stoichiometry and realized that a) I would need like 150 doses of the stuff to make the change (more than a whole bottle) and b) it has something called polygluconate in it which even with the companies assurances that it's safe makes me nervous.
<Is relatively quite safe>
I did add the maximum number of doses of that product that it says you can add to a tank that size in one day (just under 15 capfuls), so I don't know if that could have had a compounding effect.
<Possibly>
I have since ordered lab grade calcium chloride to make my own 2 stage additive as it's unbelievably more cost effective.
<Ah yes>
Other parameters:
approx. 100 gallon total volume
pH 8.2
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate under 5ppm
Magnesium 1250
<Mmm, high for your [Ca]>
Alk 10.6 (not going to raise it until I get the calcium)
<Good>
SG 1.024
Thanks for the advice!
Adam
<Do read where you are referred... and soon. Bob Fenner>

Best Macroalgae 2/9/10
Hey Guys (and Gals!),
I am in the process of starting a 55 gal, refugium. It will have water that comes in, filters thru about 8 lbs of live rock, flows into about a 2 foot stretch of live sand (1-2 inch deep) with a few chunks of live rock and a T5 light, goes over a baffle then under, over a half wall into the pump area. This is a refugium for a 90 gal tank above with a flow rate (at the pump) of 700 gph. I was wanting to get some good macroalgae and am having a hard time tracking down the types that would be good for this setup. I know Chaeto is all the rave, but I am concerned it would just end up in the pump area.
<There are ways to curtail/avoid this...>
I have read thru several pages of FAQs about macroalgae, and have even tried to do some research on it, but what I have found seems to be much more technical than I can understand lol. :) I was wondering if you guys would mind pushing me in the right direction, and to get your opinions.
Here are some of the things I am looking for..1.) Is not calciferous, 2.) will grow to make a refugium worthy of display, 3.) will not cause problems, 3.) has good nutrient absorption, and 4.) will work well with my setup,( i.e. not needing tumbling). Any input you have is much appreciated!
I would prefer different colors, not just green if possible.
Thanks!
Joshua Lucero
<Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/refugalgfaq2.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Re: starving dragon wrasse 2/9/10
Hello again Bob. We are still struggling to save our dragon wrasse. To recap, he's exhibited reduced appetite and lethargy since we rescued him and the rest of the fish from a tank meltdown back in late October. At that time we treated him for a supposed ich infestation with 2 wks hyposalinity in conjunction with Maracyn-I while the main tank lay fallow for 30 days. But he never really seemed to fully recover.
About 2.5 weeks ago I came home and couldn't find him until I moved some rocks in the back of the tank - found him laying there. I managed to get him to eat 1 krill (last time we saw him keep down a large piece of food).
Subsequently we tried feeding him smaller foods (and clams as you suggested). As I indicated to you in our last exchange it was if he couldn't swallow (kept spitting up things). We tried treating Maracyn-II in the main tank for 10 days but saw no improvement in his condition.
After concluding the Maracyn-II treatment we installed carbon and Polyfilter back in the sump to clean up the main tank (incidentally, our clown subsequently improved and we saw no color in the Polyfilter other than some yellow, apparently from the Maracyn).
<Thank you for this info.>
A few days later our wrasse had deteriorated to the point where he spent all day on the bottom and when he swam he ran into things. At that point (7 days ago) I decided to pull him out of the main tank and put him into the 20 gallon hospital tank. He had white stringy material coming from his vent so I assumed there was an internal bacterial
infection.
<More likely parasitic>
There we did another 5 day regimen of Maracyn-I and -II with daily 70% H20 changes. We also started feeding him mysids and frozen baby brine shrimp in a slurry using a turkey baster. He is very thin but does manage to eat
a bit every evening. His digestive system still appears to be working (from the pellets he's producing) and the white string stuff is gone. He still has red marks under his chin.
Nevertheless, he continues to spend 90% of his time laying on the bottom and is breathing rapidly. Today we concluded the Maracyn and after a water change install Polyfilter to clear the water of meds. I also deployed the
Ozonizer on the hospital take to drive the ORP up to 370.
<Good>
The tank is well aerated yet he continues to struggle to breath.
<Fishes have real troubles (not often discussed or well-understood by hobbyists) w/ hemolysis (loss of RBCs, oxygen carrying capacity)... and the "causes" of same... in less-than ideal settings (< 7 ppm DO)>
His gills appear red/inflamed. And I noticed this morning his left eye is cloudy. There may be a spot/lesion there. He ate again this morning but this is very sick fish and am frankly amazed he's held on this long. I feel we have exhausted options
<Mmm, no>
with the antibiotic route. Am wondering if there's anything else we should try.
<Yes... If this fish is eating at all, I would try soaking its food/s in an anthelminthic. My choice? Praziquantel, due to its effectiveness, ready availability and low related-toxicity>
We've provided (hopefully) "pristine" water conditions for the past 3 weeks. Could the rapid breathing and cloudy eye be indicative of some kind of parasite?
<Much more likely cumulative degeneration period>
I don't see any overt visible signs of parasites.
<Might if you had the gear, background and did a fecal examination for eggs, Protozoans et al.>
I hesitate to try hyposalinity or copper treatment (am torn between further stressing him vs. recognition that whatever we're doing isn't helping).

I have prepared for the worst (euthanasia via clove oil) but we're not ready to throw in the towel while he's still swimming around at night and able to feed.
Thanks,
Riley
<Thank you for this follow-up, and do consider the Prazi. Some background re here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/vermifugefaqs.htm
BobF>

turtle eggs 2/9/10
is it normal for a reeve's turtle to lay eggs as often as every few weeks?
<If kept with a male, then yes. When sexually mature, turtles and terrapins will mate once and then the female can store the sperm across a period of months or even years. Once the sperm is used up, she should stop laying
eggs, but that can be a while.>
we aren't interested in hatching them; we just want to be sure our turtle isn't stressing herself out.
<So long as she lays the eggs, and you keep her sufficiently well fed that she's in good health, it isn't something to worry about unduly. A calcium-rich diet will offset the calcium she uses to form the eggs.
Protein will make up for what she provisions as yolk within the eggs.>
also we think that she doesn't get them all out as she has two hard marble sized lumps at the base of her tail. is everything normal or should we be concerned & do something?
<Yes, be very concerned. Egg binding is common among females if they can't find a good nesting site. Some females will drop their eggs almost anywhere, even underwater, if they can't lay them, but in general female turtles need a sandy pit of some sort. If the eggs aren't laid because she can't find somewhere big and soft enough for them, she can end up egg-bound. This is painful, life-threatening, and requires veterinarian help. Typically, hormones are used to force egg laying, a bit like inducing labour. In fact the Oxytocin used is the same hormone used with pregnant women. In extreme cases, surgery is required. Egg-binding clogs the cloaca, restricting elimination of waste, and a rotting egg quickly becomes a focus for bacterial infection. It cannot be treated at home. Call your vet or animal welfare charity for help ASAP.>
thank you
<Cheers, Neale.>

Help, sudden weird numbers 2/9/10
Good morning,
<Hello Melanie!>
We ran routine tests on our tank last night and came up with some alarming numbers.
<Yes, I see!>
- 75 gallon (imperial) reef tank with 20 gal sump, approx 80 lbs live rock, 3 yrs old, mixed fluorescent and metal halide lighting.
- mixed corals, 5 stony, 1 Finger Leather
- two Pyjama Cardinals, two Clarkii Clowns, two Blue Damsels, 1 Bartlett
Anthias, 1 Blenny, 1 Sally Lightfoot Crab, 1 Urchin, assorted Hermits and Snails. 1 Clam
<Pleeaase Melanie, I have just capitalised all of these animals!>
- salinity, 1.025, temp, 80 degrees, calcium, 380, phosphates 0, Ph, so high it is off the chart,
carbonate alkalinity 5.4 <?your problem. This should be 'about' 3. Please see here: http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/nov2002/chem.htm>,
ammonia, .03, <?What?> nitrites, 0.5,<????> nitrates 40!
<Oh Dear. Have you double checked all of these results? Every time you test something and it comes out 'wrong' you should test again>
We changed our pump setup in December and got our protein skimmer running more efficiently, I have recently purchased new food (frozen mixed for carnivores), have been using red sea coral pro salt for over a year with RO
water. I have been dosing with Seachem Reef builder (according to their instructions) to try to boost the alkalinity.
<Yes, but why have you 'boosted' it to this level? Are you aware that alkalinity and pH are intricately linked? Your problem is of your own making. Please read here:
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-06/rhf/index.php>
There is a recent outbreak of a red-brown algae. In the past few months we have lost a couple of fair sized stony corals that were with us for a long time.
<As you have positive ammonia and nitrite I can only assume that the high pH has caused quite a bit of die-off in your system, a cascade effect with one parameter (alkalinity) causing a chain reaction of events that must be halted now. A massive water change immediately is required. Try using a salt which is based more for fish only tanks for the moment, such as Instant Ocean that might have a lower carbonate content>
No one has died in the last few days but the button coral looks very unhappy. We did a 20% water change last night, and the nitrates are just as bad this morning.
<Do a 50% one now, and another every day until ammonia is zero>
I am going to buy a new pH test kit today in case ours is not reading correctly.
<Probably a good idea, but you would expect pH to be high with alkalinity at 5.4>
Any ideas?
<Posted>
Thank you Melanie
<no problem, Simon>

LPS nutrition sharing 2/9/10
Hello Crew
<Hello Carrie>
In my recent reading, I learned that SPS corals have a structural system that allows them to share nutrition between polyps.
<Mmm, technically there is no real distinction between 'SPS' and 'LPS' corals. This is a hobby myth, made up by aquarists, and has nothing to do with taxonomy. Each different coral has a slightly different care requirement, and you should not generalise like this, it could be dangerous for your corals>
It also said some LPS have that same ability.
<Of course. Some will and some won't. This is true for both 'SPS' and 'LPS' corals for the reason stated above>
So here is where I get confused.
<You, me, Borneman, Veron, and Doctor Who as well I bet>
How do I know if my LPS is sharing nutrition, or if every polyp has to eat individually?
<Mmmm, when you frag a coral, such as a Euphyllia for example, you can see that the skeleton separates the polyps. That means each polyp must be fed.
With some corals it is easy to see if this is the case, others not so. In fact it is a pretty safe bet that there are many corals that no-one knows exactly how these processes work, so if in doubt... feed the lot>
My two LPS at the moment are branching frogspawn and candy cane, but if there was a general rule it would be great to know.
<No such general rule at all, apart from 'feed them all'>
Also do Palys and Zoas share nutrition, or are they complete individuals.
<Mmmm, depends if they are solitary or if they share a coenenchyme, a basal mat. This depends on the species. It is a pretty safe bet that nutrients are exchanged between polyps via the coenenchyme, so if this is how the coral spreads it must be a vector. Please read here
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2002-06/eb/index.php and here:
http://www.reefs.org/library/aquarium_net/0198/0198_1.html. With a bit of sifting you might find some answers...>
Thank you,
<No problem!>
Carrie