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Myripristis kuntee Valenciennes 1831, Shoulder-bar Soldierfish. Indo-Pacific; East Africa to Hawai'i. Two to 55 meters. To eight inches total length. Reef-associated. Leading part of spiny dorsal fin yellowish. One off of Hawa'i's Big Island.
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Updated 8/14/2018
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Neale Monks, Marco Lichtenberger, Lynn Zurik, Bob Fenner, are posted here. Moved about, re-organized daily
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by Robert (Bob) Fenner

Re: schoutedeni puffer advice     8/14/18
Hi Neale,
I followed your advice and have a very similar setup (2 pairs irrubescos in a 200L) and bought 4 Amazon puffers yesterday.
The amazons are going a bit mad, swimming along the back glass side to side endlessly.
<This is what they do.>
I know they can be a bit erratic like that.
<Yes. These are open water, migratory, river-dwelling Puffers that don't lurk. They're more like Danios or Silver Dollars than regular Pufferfish.
Open water, strong water currents, and floating plants are what they like.
At night they do hide among the plants though.>
Will that settle?
<Eventually they become less hyperactive, but they're always swimming.>
They have been doing it for 24 hrs!! The water is fine and the tank is well planted.
Would adding another 2 (so a school of 6) help?
<Whether they're really schooling fish is unknown to me, but they certainly appreciate being with their own kind, and show few, if any signs of aggression.>
Or will they calm down after a few days?
I'm worried that they are very stressed/nervous.
<Yes and no. Yes, they're spooked now, but once settled in, they remain a bit frenetic. Cheers, Neale.>
Now: South American Puffers; was RE: schoutedeni puffer advice     8/14/18

Thank you!
<Most welcome.
They already looks a little bit more settled this morning (though still more erratic than most fish!).
<Indeed. These puffers will become quite tame, in fact mine would feed from food held in needlenose forceps quite happily. But they are always swimming about, like Danios, rather than your traditional pufferfish. Just accept that's how they are, and you'll find them refreshingly peaceful (if occasionally nippy) by comparison with other puffers. I call them "the nice puffers"...
Do note that the adult size stated in some aquarium books, 15 cm/6 inches, is wildly optimistic and probably based on a brackish water species, Colomesus psittacus, that's hardly ever traded; instead, expect SAPs to get to about half that size.>
Have a great day.
<Cheers, Neale.>

ICH Question     8/13/18
<Hey Brent>
I had a 187 gallon set up in my basement that developed a major leak while I was away for work.
I took everything apart and found 4 large cracks in my sump. I lost all my fish and corals... was not a good day.
So, i set up my 40 gallon breeder quarantine tank as my new temporary main display while I wait to fire up the big tank again... I’m not sure when that’s going to happen.
I’ve had the 40 gallon up and running since early March. I added fish after cycle with out quarantine. I added a Perc clown, royal Gramma, azure damsel fish, flame angel and juvenile yellow tang. I lost the Gramma and the clown to ich in may... the 3 remaining fish did have white spots on them but they have been clean and looking very healthy since the white spots left them 3 months ago...
<Mmm; well; I should/will mention that the Ich/Crypt is still present. In fact, there are latent (waiting) infestations of this Protozoan in most all captive systems>
the tank is in great balance with the 3 fish left. I am asking for advice on if I should add a six line wrasse and 2 pajama cardinal fish.
<Mmm... there is, make that are acclimation procedures that might "harden" the new fishes... ahead of their introduction, mixing here. I would wait till you have the old/er, larger system up, going, use the 40 for this process>
Is ich still present in my tank?
<Ah yes>
The new additions would not be quarantined... I know I’m rolling the dice but I am curious to hear your thoughts.
<During the quarantine I'd be adding some of the 40 system water to the new QT system... too likely otherwise to trigger resurgence of the Crypt. And lastly; yes; there are such things as specific pathogen free settings.>
Thank you.
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Water levels, SW water quality      8/12/18
Don Taylor
Hi fish guys
I am having some trouble with my results back from ATI labs. The phosphorus is reading 2188 ugl ( is the ugl meant to be mgl )
<Mmm; no... a microgram is 10 to the minus sixth gram; a milligram is 10 to the minus third gram... >
but the phosphate is -0.02 mgl,
<Yeah... these are equivalent statements>
nitrate is high +150.1
<Yikes; I'll say. See WWM re NO3 control>
and my ph is low. The calcium is 474.5 mgl.
<This is a bit high. I'd keep about 400 mg/l aka ppm; Mg about thrice...>
Any comments or suggestions. thank you Don Taylor
<Please learn to/use WWM. Bob Fenner>

Re: Few questions
Hi Neale
Hope all is well
<Can't complain.>
Mate these Otos����‍♂️����‍♂️����‍♂️����‍♂️����‍♂️����‍♂️
So this thing that attacks the back of their heads seems to be coming back..... everyone of them started with this mark on the back of their heads (as seen in the photo) then it turns into the fungus and I lose the fish.
Do you recommend using the API anti fungus and bacteria?
<I'm not aware of this specific product.
If you mean the API Fungus Cure alongside the API Fin & Body Cure, then yes, that'd be worth doing.>
I have the Bristlenose with eggs which I can separate from this tank
<Wise, but the eggs would probably survive. Even if they didn't, another batch of eggs would likely appear very quickly.>
As always I appreciate your help and advice
<Glad to help, but not convinced we've made much progress yet! Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Few questions
Thanks Neale for your reply
Cheers mate
<No problem and good luck.>


Chemical Filtrants: Too clean the cause of problems?
Hi Crew!
<Hey Dani>
My 28g is about 3 years old but I rebooted it in May—so it’s trying to mature out still. Stats to start: -LED 89w par intensity up to 700, lights on for 7 hours
<Aim for a longer period,10 hrs. will be far better>
-2 returns @ 266 gal each -1k icecap gyre at 700 gph peak -SG 1.025 -Am 0 -Nitrite 0 -Nitrate <10 -Alk 10 -Calcium 475 -Mag 1400 -Test bi weekly with Salifert & dose Seachem reef builder, calcium, & magnesium. -10% weekly water change with Red Sea -I only feed frozen twice a week (half cube typically) with a small broadcast of zooplankton (1-2ml), pellets 4 days, and no food on water change day. -skim aggressively with a Aquamaxx HOB 1.5
<Sounds good so far>
I am wondering about your thoughts on if I actually remove my chemical filtrants...carbon media and/or Polyfilter?
<Better to use more natural means>
My theory is that perhaps these chemical filtrants are removing essential elements for my livestock and possibly inhibiting my beneficial bacteria from settling in.
<Couldn´t agree more here, I would use carbon just a few days per month just to “polish” the water.>
I’ve read in forums where “too clean” water is actually suspect causes of Cyano or corals struggling. I remember years ago when I ran tanks on just liverock rubble in the chamber and skimming alone with much success. I seem to have difficulty getting my tank to stabilize completely. The tank will look great but as I approach water change day, it’ll start to get nuisance algae like Cyano, my corals have growth stunts, or my shrimp have bad molts.
<Phosphates may be above safety levels, keep them at 0.13 ppm tops>
I posit the chemical filtrants are possibly interfering with the beneficial bacteria somehow, moreover stripping trace elements out of the water. My fear is removing the chemical filtrants and sticking new LR rubble in the media basket could also go another route and allow the nuisance algae to take off.
I do keep a variety of macro algae in the tank to help compete against the nuisance algae.
<This is a good idea but will work much better in an inverted light cycle>
Also, once every other month I am sand rinsing some part of my substrate, as vacuuming it doesn’t seem to get the detritus really out, but it seems excessive that I would need to do this.
<You don’t need to; I would use a DSB. Add more sand, about 3” and just vacuum the layer on top every time you do maintenance chores, this way you would let anaerobic bacteria to grow naturally and keep nitrate levels at safe levels.>
In summary, I have a very intense cleaning regimen—sand rinses, weekly vacuuming, turkey basting rocks, scrubbing little rocks of green hair algae, chemical filtrants—to try to rid the tank of any latent nitrate sources but not sure if that in itself is impacting my livestock negatively.
<You are certainly stressing over your livestock (beneficial bacteria included).>
I appreciate any words of wisdom!
Dani Conner

Re: Chemical Filtrants: Too clean the cause of problems?
Sorry one more thing. Would it be ok to add liverock rubble to my soon to be empty media baskets? I’ll have regular filter floss on top that I’ll rinse out daily.
<That´s a pretty good idea, just remember that nitrifying bacteria will grow better if the live rock rubble is fully submerged.>
Re: Chemical Filtrants: Too clean the cause of problems?

Hi Wilberth!
<Hi Dani>
Thank you for the feedback.
<You´re welcome>
I’d love to run my lights longer, but I do not have a chiller so my tank can’t handle anything longer than the 7 hours. It peaks at 82-84 F by hour 7. I’m from Florida, so I switched my lights to turn on at night and run the AC significantly cooler to help me run the lights especially during our summer.
<Ok, I get it, If possible give Led´s a try, these produce zero heat.>
My old photoperiod was 5.5 hours before the reboot so this is at least an improvement although slight. Follow up questions if you’d be so kind:
If I do have phosphates, would removing the chemical filtrants possibly exacerbate the issue?
<No, just increase a bit the amount of water changed every week and you´ll be fine here. You may also export them by other means. Try growing macro algae in a remote unit like a reactor, there are units lighted by Led stripes, a HOB filter will also work for this purpose.>
Also, if I do see Cyano or nuisance algae start to return, do I grit my teeth, contain my OCD, and just let my system attempt to balance it out then and wait till water change day to try to siphon out?
<If you reduce the phosphates to the recommended levels you won´t have to worry>
I only do a 10% change under the advisement here to try to “age” as much water as possible, but doesn’t give me much time to siphon before I have to cut it off.
<Try a bit more, maybe 15% and restrict the water flow by squeezing the hose with your fingers while siphoning out.>
I did slope my substrate towards the back during my last water change, allowing my Caulerpa prolifera to take hold over it there, whereas the front half is merely a thin aesthetic layer now. I have burrowing livestock and don’t want them possibly stirring up noxious chemicals into my nano, as I don’t think it could handle it.
<Don´t worry about this, your burrowing livestock will not disturb the sand that much, actually it is beneficial to the substrate the mild stirring that they do.>
Do you think the sloping should be sufficient and I’ll just vacuum the front? I don’t plan to really mess with the area the prolifera is in which is the entire back.
<Try the DSB in the whole bottom and you´ll be very pleased with the results, just give it time to establish (about a month or so.)
I’m very excited to try this more natural approach, already removed the Polyfilter,<Good> and plan to remove carbon on next week’s change, trying to go slow. Thank you for your support!
<Anytime Dani>

Re: schoutedeni puffer advice       8/10/18
Hi Neale,
Quick question further to your email below. Is it possible to mix Carino tetradon irrubesco with Amazon puffers in the same tank?
<Yes; kept two pairs of Carinotetraodon irrubesco alongside three Amazon Puffers in a single 180 litre tank without any problems at all. The two species barely notice each other. I did have lots of plants, especially floating plants though, and Amazon Puffers will spend most of their time at the surface if they can, hunting for food! Cheers, Neale.>
Re: schoutedeni puffer advice       8/10/18

Thanks! Could I put some dwarfs in there too? Or no because they are a bit more aggressive even if smaller?
<Dwarfs as in Dwarf Puffers? Carinotetraodon travancoricus? Nope. They'd either be two nippy, or too easily bullied. Either way, best kept on their own. Cheers, Neale.>

Re: New England Aquarium Stocking density       8/10/18
I understand completely.
<Ah, good>
I have a 220 gal display right now with 2 large adult fish . Emp Angel and Heniochus Butterfly . 2 damsels one percula . They are so much more laid back and natural in their demeanor .
Again thanks
Has taken me a lifetime to understand but understocking is my cuppa tea
<Am glad to find our values are confluent here. Bob Fenner>

Your New Aquarium: Tips For Beginners - WETWEBMEDIA       8/10/18
Hi dear sir or madam:
This is Karlin Tian from Foshan Yingfa Factory , i know you have engaged in production and sell the Aquarium tank etc .
Our factory are specialized in providing composite waterproof boards for Aquarium furniture , Aquarium cabinet , Aquarium stand etc .
Follow have some our client’s finished products for your reference .
If you need this waterproof board contact me get more .
Thanks and best regards.
<Hello Karlin; we don't manufacture or-resell aquarium gear, but I will post, share your note and link for others perusal. Fortune passes everywhere. Bob Fenner>

New England Aquarium Stocking density      8/9/18
Good Morning,
Just Visited the New England Aquarium. They had a marine tank that was incredibly heavily stocked with adult fish. Tank looked to be 20 feet long x 4 feet high x 4 feet deep. The fish all looked healthy but the stocking density was extremely high. How are public aquariums able to accomplish this?
<Ahh; the magic; well, science of a BUNCH of gear out of sight; often much more volume than is on display as well. Ask for or take an "e" virtual tour of a public aquarium, including a behind the scenes tour. See humongous protein skimmers, oversized mechanical and physical filtration. Some folks
adhere to the overstocking philosophy to reduce aggression and wow/zow the viewing public. I myself am more a fan of understocking... not as appealing perhaps to attendees, but much safer lest there be a power outage, overfeeding... other challenging incident>
This one side display tank was the most heavily stocked tank in the building . Among those that I can remember there was Large Emp Angel, Several Powder blue Tangs, Clown Fish, Sailfin Tangs, Majestic Angel, Purple Tang, Passer Angel, Lipstick Tangs, Picasso Tangs, Many Butterfly fish etc etc etc. The fish were un-naturally overactive IMO. Any Thoughts?
<Again, not my cuppa, but such over-stocking can be done... with lots of equipment and good maintenance.
Bob Fenner>

You haven't heard the new part...
We have no words left, as this is such a mess. One road block after another, and they Dept Of Env keep changing the rules.
Now they want an EIA for every area, every year. And we have 5 areas.
Must send out for public review and now charge a bond per area 5k to 500k
Getting pretty dumb, as we can't even export from our coral farms..
<Ah yes... cheers (and no taki time). B>

Re: Reg. Angelfish Breeding      8/9/18
Hi Bob,
Thanks for getting back.
As of now I have decided to leave the eggs wit the parents.
Today morning I could see that they were trying to move the eggs which had not turned white to another bark of the driftwood.
<Ah, good>
That looked promising to me..
Keeping my fingers crossed, hoping to see at least a small number of the eggs turn up to beautiful angelfish fry.
<They will breed again... every few weeks... shorter when eggs, young removed>
Will keep you posted...
<I thank you>
And yes really excited with the first batch of eggs\hatching..:)
<Oh yes>
Thanks and regards,
Shriram Natarajan
<Cheers, Bob Fenner>

Re: Severum sick      8/8/18
Thank you. Could you recommend an anti-biotic that I can treat her with?
<If you're in the US, then something like the old Maracyn 1 and Maracyn 2 combo is well regarded, or else something like Kanaplex. But avoid anything that's either a general tonic or cure-all, and definitely avoid the tea-tree oil medications like Melafix. Salt won't help, either. Outside the US you can't always easily obtain antibiotics without a prescription, so your range of options is different. Here in the UK, I've found eSHa 2000 works well. Again, avoid cure-alls, and concentrate on established anti-Finrot medications. Cheers, Neale.>

Re: schoutedeni puffer advice      8/8/18
Thanks again for your advice
I have found somebody that has 5 that are about 4-5 inches.
<Holy cow!>
He is a private individual and is moving house and can’t take them with. He has asked for £500. Based on your experience do you have any idea what a fair price would be for these?
<That's not a bad price at all for five more or less full grown specimens! Juveniles could easily go for anywhere between £50-100; they're really that rare in the trade. You could haggle I suppose, but if these genuinely are Tetraodon schoutedeni, if you turn him down, it's unlikely you're going to see them anywhere else for a while. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: schoutedeni puffer advice      8/8/18

Thanks Neale, the owner has sent a video of the fish, the video was too large to send so I have screenshotted some pics of the fish into a word document and attached- do these look like real schoutedeni? They do to me but would like a second opinion.
<Tetraodon schoutedeni is most likely to be confused with Tetraodon nigroviridis, both of them having circular spots on their bodies. The most immediately obvious difference is that Tetraodon schoutedeni has reddish eyes, whereas those on Tetraodon nigroviridis tend to be golden.
Furthermore, whereas the spots on Tetraodon nigroviridis tend to be discrete black circles, the spots on Tetraodon schoutedeni are more closely packed, almost like 'crazy paving', especially on the dorsal surface. The back surface of Tetraodon nigroviridis is also more iridescent golden on most specimens, unlike the dull, often mottled colours on Tetraodon schoutedeni. While both species tend to swim with the tail fins closed, the tail of Tetraodon schoutedeni is often reddish-brown but without speckles or spots, whereas the tail fin of Tetraodon nigroviridis tends to be clear, but with some spots or speckles apparent, especially towards the base. Do also look at the 'tentacles' by the nostrils. On Tetraodon schoutedeni these are very long and narrow, whereas those on Tetraodon nigroviridis are much shorter and broader, like spoons. This difference is very obvious and very reliable, but do look at photos on Google to know what you're looking for! Supposedly, Tetraodon schoutedeni has more obvious spines, including particularly long spines on the belly, whereas the skin of Tetraodon nigroviridis is much smoother, though a few bristles or pimples may be apparent here and there. The pictures you sent me are a bit small to be definite, but it certainly looks like they have reddish eyes, which is promising! Cheers, Neale.>

Re: schoutedeni puffer advice      8/8/18
Thank you :-)
Kind regards,
<Most welcome and hope you're able to positively identify the puffers to your satisfaction. Neale.>

Re: Few questions; FW Stocking       8/8/18
FW Stocking
Hey Neale
Thanks for your reply
<Most welcome.>
Next question my filter I’m currently running a Eheim 2217 do you think this unit is enough for my tank?
<An excellent filter.>
My tank is 5 foot x 2 foot x 1.2 feet w roughly about 540 litres of water. I get really good flow is that how people judge if the filter is the right size for the tank?
<So long as you have zero ammonia and zero nitrite, your filter is doing fine, so far as filtering goes. If your fish are 'gasping' or otherwise showing signs of oxygen stress, you may need additional water movement, which could come from a second filter, airstone, or powerhead.>
Last question ha ha what would be the capacity for this tank?
I have currently
30 cardinal tetras
20 Rummynose tetras
18 Otocinclus catfish
6 red rainbows
4 dwarfs cichlids
3 Kuhli loaches
2 flying foxes
2 breeding Bristlenose catfish (normally a good sign)
And more than a few shrimps
Am I reaching the limit for this system? Or can I add more
<The old rule of "an inch per gallon" isn't bad. So this tank is about 140 US gallons, so about 140 "inches" of small fish (anything up to the size of Guppies, say). Cardinals get to what, maybe 1.5 inches, so that'd be over 90 Cardinal tetras! Plus or minus a bit for the fact some of your fish quite a bit bigger than Guppies, your tank probably isn't>
What I would still like to add is
10 torpedo barbs
<If you mean Sahyadria denisonii, the Red Lined Torpedo Barb, these are quite particular fish. They need clean, clear water with lots of oxygen and -- crucially for long term success -- not too much heat. They're probably more subtropical than tropical fish. But in any case, anything above 25 C isn't to their liking, making them a poor choice for life with Cardinal tetras, for example, which are true hothouse flowers. They also prefer a bit more current than Cardinals, though on the other hand, the habitat favoured by Otocinclus, Ancistrus, and Flying Foxes would be pretty similar. Do note that Sahyadria denisonii can get pretty large (maybe 10 cm in good conditions) and while a 540 litre tank would suit them well, they are boisterous, even aggressive at times, and can terrorise small, gentle species -- and may simply view shrimps as food. On the other hand, they're perfectly fine with L-number catfish, robust characins like Anostomus and Silver Dollars, and those sorts of fishes able to handle themselves without actually causing trouble for no reason.>
10 Rummynose
10 cardinal tetras
<These two species mix very well, and almost interchangeably in terms of requirements.>
Appreciate you help and thoughts on these man.
<Cheers, Neale.>

Brackish to Freshwater; lost Violet Goby; Fire Eel sys.       8/8/18
Hello Crew.
I lost my Violet Goby today. He was in the tank when I did his water change last night, but when I went to feed him this morning, I couldn't find him. When I did find him, he had gotten out of the tank and wiggled into my closet. He was very dried out, but I tried floating him in the tank in a net all day - but he was gone.
<How cow! That's bad news indeed. Sounded a great fish.>
I've decided I'm not going to get another one, at least for now, and to convert that tank back to freshwater. I sent you a post a few days ago about compatibility between my BGK and a Fire Eel I will be getting from my friend this Saturday, and instead of putting it in with the BGK, I'm going to put the Fire Eel in the goby's old tank. My question is, how sensitive are Fire Eels to salt?
<Not especially, but they don't want brackish. On the other hand, a trivial amount is actually quite therapeutic, and a safer treatment for Whitespot and Velvet than the alternatives. Certainly, the addition of 1-2 gram salt per litre of water has been standard operating practise in Europe when keeping Spiny Eels of all kinds, including these.>
This tank is low end brackish, SG 1.005. Do I have to completely rinse out the tank, sand, filters, everything and start over, or can I replace the water, or a portion of the water, to drop the salinity as low as it can go without destroying the biological filter that currently exists in the tank.
<A succession of water changes will be fine, which I'd do across a couple of days to allow the filter to adapt. Keep adding a little flake or something to keep the filter bacteria ticking over. Once the salinity is
1.001 or less, you can add a Spiny Eel without problems. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Brackish to Freshwater      8/8/18

Thank you!
<Most welcome! Neale.>
Re: Brackish to Freshwater      8/8/18

Thank you!
<PS. If a Violet Goby jumped out of your tank, a Spiny Eel will definitely do so. They are notorious escape artists. Double check every hole is sealed off with plastic mesh, filter wool, or something else that lets air through but nothing else! Cheers, Neale.>

End of an era..
(Deb Smith)
<Mmm; so... no env. impact study, public input coming?
A shame; my usual question: "Who is served"?
See you and Walt next mo. in LV. B>
Hi Walt,
I’ve just received the following. Please go to page 61.
All the best,
John (Dawes)
http://digitalmag.petproductnews.com/petproductnews/august_2018?utm_source=ppn_digital&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=PPN_Digital_201808&pg=60#pg60 >

Bob, Web Wed Media Readers Want to Know About the Origin of Fish.      8/8/18
Hi Bob,
<Ave Robert>
Hello from England! I’m Robert a fish keeper, enthusiast and blogger at Fishkeeping World<https://www.fishkeepingworld.com/>.
Bob, having read Web Wed Media, I noticed that your site has accepted guest posts before and I was wondering if I could write for you?
<Yes; certainly>
I recently published an infographic on the origins of fish<https://www.fishkeepingworld.com/evolution-of-fish/> , the graphic takes fish enthusiasts on the 500M year evolution of fish.
I know you are very busy, so I would like to write a guest post for you on the origin of fish. As an expert in fishkeeping I think I can offer your readers lots of interesting and exciting information on the origins and evolution of fish.
Let me know if you are interested and I can send over some title suggestions.
<Appreciated Robert. We do pay for agreed upon content (of use of course). Cheers, BobF>
Look forward to hearing from you,
Kind regards,
p.s. Awesome job on running your site since 1995.
Editor at Fishkeeping World

Ick (Crypt) Eradication      8/8/18
Hope all is well.
<Mostly; yes; thank you>
I am dealing with a rather persistent case of Ick. I have 4 quarantine tanks going with a total of 15 fish all of which were purchased from the same vendor. All fish have spots, flashing, etc. and is 99.9% Ick. All tanks were treated with copper at therapeutic dosages and removed at day 30. Within 1 week the Ick returns. I believe I am either dealing with a copper resistant strain or one whose life cycle is greater
than 30 days. Right now 2 of the tanks have Chloroquine phosphate and the other 2 are in hyposalinity until I figure out what the best course of action is.
<Good! This is what I would do; how low is your spg? I'd try 1.017 thereabout for now... and if this doesn't do it w/ the CP in a week, I'd drop the density to 1.010... Yes>
What would you recommend? I have already went through 2 30 day copper treatments which were unsuccessful. I am a bit hesitant to expose everyone to another round.
<I strongly concur. See my comments above. Clear? >
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Reg. Angelfish Breeding       8/8/18
<Hey Shriram>
This morning I was surprised to see that one of my angel fish pairs had laid eggs over the driftwood.
The pair has been guarding the eggs from other fish.
<Ah yes>
But I do see that the number of eggs turning white was gradually increasing over the day.
<Mmm; yes. A "first batch" is often "weak"; and... there is some chance that the eggs were not fertilized, even... that there may be two females at work here!>
This the first time I have seen angel fish lay eggs.
<Enlivening eh?>
Is it advisable to move the driftwood with the eggs to a nursery tank or do I need to move along with the pair.
<As this is already ongoing... I'd leave all as is. IF you're interested in breeding, rearing young... DO consider moving the pair to their own system, employ a slanted (placed) piece of slate for them to place the spawn on... and READ on WWM, the Net, books... re the option of moving the spawn (adding Methylene Blue, an airstone), OR leaving the spawn w/ the parents, moving them when the young are free-swimming>
Since the eggs are turning white is there still a chance that I may have angel fish fry.
<Yes; the white/fungused ones are gone; but the clearish ones may still be viable. >
Please suggest what should be my next course of action.
<Again, I would leave all as is here currently; move the parents to another system (20 gal. tall or larger)....>
Thanks and regards,
Shriram Natarajan
<Thank you for sharing. Bob Fenner>

Re: Yellow weather loach w red areas on body        8/7/18
Thank you.
Redness not trauma related. Began near tail, whole circumference, then spread forward toward head. Internal, not external.
<Could be anything, really. Sounds bacterial, so an antibiotic would be the best call.>
BETTER today, more close to normal color. This a yellow guy, did I say that? Perhaps moving a little better, as well. I do add Prime to all water plus Stability, including spring. All tank parameters had been so fine for several months. Frustrating. The city gives no warning of ammonia spike.
<Indeed, but should be within certain limits. Double-dosing your water conditioner isn't the worst idea, but in any event, use an ammonia test kit on your tap water before doing a water change, and then add extra conditioner if required.>
I understand many cities routinely add but alert residents. Not Philadelphia. I will have to check for each day of collecting I am learning, and take precautions. I hate harming the fish. Fingers crossed that Larry is improving. Thank you again.
<Well, does sound frustrating. But good luck with Larry. Cheers, Neale.>

Re: Weird Event        8/7/18
As you said, lesson well learned. We have both vowed never to put anything in our tanks that did not come from an aquarium supply store.
<Prudent. Also garden centre stuff rated as safe for ponds can be used, too. Often a lot cheaper.>
Thank you!
<Welcome. Neale.>

Re: mixing scribbled angelfish male        8/7/18
Dear Wilberth
Sorry for late reply
<Next time please place the video in the cloud or YouTube and send us just the link to see it.>
ok sorry for the trouble
<Is this a holding tank? If so, fish won´t be there for long and aggression is dissipated because of the number of fish kept in there>
Yes it is a holding tank but I've watched the fish already 2 weeks now
What about if I put 4 adult male scribbled angelfish (30 cm each) in tank dimension 300 cm * 90 cm * 40 cm with no rock in there, I'll give plenty vigorous water circulation, Wavemaker, will they fight or still they confused who is going to attack who?
Thank you for your advise Wilberth
Re: mixing scribbled angelfish male        8/7/18

Dear Wilberth
sorry for late reply
<<No worries>>
<Next time please place the video in the cloud or YouTube and send us just the link to see it.>
ok sorry for the trouble
<<It´s ok, we posted it >>
<Is this a holding tank? If so, fish won´t be there for long and aggression is dissipated because of the number of fishes kept in there>
Yes, it is a holding tank but I've watched the fish already 2 weeks now
What about if I put 4 adult male scribbled angelfish (30 cm each) in tank dimension 300 cm * 90 cm * 40 cm with no rock in there, I'll give plenty vigorous water circulation, Wavemaker, will they fight or still they confused who is going to attack who?
<<You can try but they will still need hiding places as they are very territorial, there is no absolute guarantee that they won´t fight, eventually the dominant male will harass the other three.>>
Thank you for your advise Wilberth
<<Glad to help. Wilberth>>

Coldwater Marine Tank Questions        8/7/18
I am a hobbyist in Florida who for a fairly long time maintained a 10 gallon coldwater marine tank with cnidarians, snails and fish primarily from the Pacific coasts of California through Washington.
<You are to be congratulated. Keeping such small systems stable... successfully is not easy>
the last time a hurricane came through about a year ago I was without power for a week and lost everything except my Elegant Blenny (*Omobranchus elegans)* and a couple of Plumose Anemones (*Metridium senile). *So for most of the year I've just kept this little sad tank going as without Stu
Wobbe and his Coldwater Marine company there are very few options for a hobbyist to restock. As an aside, if you know any way for a hobbyist to obtain the strawberry/jewel anemones *Corynactis viridis* or *Corynactis californica* I would appreciate the insight as Matsu Collections is the only provider I'm aware of and he requires a California Scientific Collecting Permit which I do not have.
<I'd have your dealer/s contact Quality Marine and Sea Dwelling Creatures in LA. Otherwise you might write folks in the public aquarium fields in CA re: Fernando Nosratpour at SIO/Birch, Richard Ross at the Steinhart/CAS... They may know folks who do such work>
So for the most part being a Floridian and a hobbyist I only have access to what little coldwater/temperate livestock are purposefully mislabeled as tropical reef livestock. So I'm currently planning on setting up a Fluval M60 (which has an 18 gallon display with 6 gallon built in sump for 24
gallons total) as something vaguely resembling a Catalina or Blue-Banded Goby *(Lythrypnus dalli)* biotope. I already have vertical rockwork in place with dozens of little caves for the gobies. My main question is, in a setup I've described how many gobies should I purchase?
<One, perhaps two. They are territorial to degrees>
Other than taking up valuable oxygen, the elegant blenny is not a concern. I've had him in a much smaller tank (standard 10 gallon) with little Sculpins and Catalina gobies before without incident as he rarely leaves the seemingly impossibly small shell he came with and when he does come out it is only
to go a couple of inches to grab some food. The information online mostly conflicts with how they are displayed in public aquariums and how they live in the wild. I've even seen repeated suggestions that only one tiny barely an inch long fish needs an entire 30 gallon tank devoted solely to him.
Meanwhile in public aquaria, I've seen dozens of Catalina gobies side by side in a tank that size and in the wild they are seldom if ever alone with ten or more huddling around the same sea urchin.
<Mmm; I collected this species; many moons ago (the sixties) commercially at times; they can be kept very crowded or much less; akin to many lacustrine African Cichlids>
I assume what is going on is something similar to the typical African cichlid situation where one is
fine, two or three will kill each other and a dozen will be fine as they take turns squabbling without having the time and energy to devote to murdering their peers.
<Oh! Yes>
So in my setup (18 gallon display with extra 6 gallons in the sump) with a vertical rock face with dozens of little caves, how many Catalina gobies should I get?
<For me; one or two>
And one final question. There are still places (like Matsu Collections) where I could get coldwater macroalgaes but they are typically quite expensive with similarly expensive shipping. Are there any typical "tropical reef" macroalgaes that will do well in a coldwater setting (I keep mine around 59 degrees but I would warm it up somewhat if it makes a major difference)?
<Some; yes. Codium, a few popular Gracilaria; most Reds actually>
Thank you very much,
Warren P.
<Thank you for sharing. Bob Fenner>

Sick fish; Helostoma         8/7/18
Hi. My friend has this fish that has weird things in it mouth. She said all she did was add a couple live plants and the next day woke up to this (please see attached pictures). I have seen the tank and they keep it clean and have other fish along with a couple frogs and an algae eater. Can you help? The fish is unable to open it's mouth.
Thanks, Tamara
<It's not entirely clear from your photos what we're looking at here. But the 'thing' appears to be flesh, and what I think has happened is that this Kissing Gourami has somehow damaged its mouth. Perhaps by fighting, perhaps by getting the mouth stuck on something rough or even a filter inlet.
Regardless, there's not a huge amount you can do. I would treat with antibiotics first (removing carbon from the filter, if used) and I'd also carefully observe the fish to see if it can feed itself. If it cannot feed,
because the jaws have become dislocated for example, the fish isn't going to recover and should be euthanised.
Cheers, Neale.>

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Marine Aquarium Articles and FAQs Master Index

  • Set-Up 1: Types of Systems:, Gear/Components:, Set-Up, Tanks, Stands, Covers:, Water, Seawater, Substrates, DSBs, Electricity, Heating/Chilling, Aquascaping, Biotopes, Travelogues.
  • Set-Up 2: Filtration of All Sorts, Skimmers, Sumps, Refugiums, Plumbing, Circulation, Pumps, Powerheads, Aeration & Light/Lighting:.
  • About Livestock: Regional Accounts:, Collection, Selection:, Stocking:, Disease Prevention: Dips/Baths, Acclimation, Quarantine, Behavior:, Territoriality:, Reproduction:
  • Non-Vertebrate Sea Life Identification, & Microbes, Algae, Plants, Live Rock & Sand, Sponges: Hitchhikers, IDs, Marine Microbes, Plankton, Live Rock & Sand, Marine Algae, Marine Plants, Sponges, phylum Porifera,
  • Cnidarians I. Corals to Hobbyists, Stinging-Celled Animals 1: Cnidarians Overall; Hydrozoans: Jellies, Hydroids, Anthozoans; Octocorals: Organ Pipe, Blue Coral, Star Polyps, Sea Fans, Sea Pens and Soft Corals
  • Cnidarians II. Corals to Hobbyists, Stinging-Celled Animals 2: Anthozoans; Hexacorals: Mushrooms, Zoanthids, Anemones, Stony Corals, Tube Anemones, Black Corals
  • Higher Invertebrate Life: Bryozoans, Worms of all kinds, Mollusks (Snails, Nudibranchs, Octopodes), Crustaceans (Crabs, Shrimp, Lobsters...), Echinoderms (Urchins, Sea Cucumbers, Seastars, Brittlestars...), Sea Squirts,
  • Fishes, Index 1: Sharks, Rays, Skates; Marine Eels; Marine Catfishes; Squirrelfishes, Soldierfishes, Lionfishes, Stonefishes, Gurnards, Sculpins; Anglerfishes, Seahorses & Pipefishes, Blennioid & Gobioid Fishes, Mandarins, Clingfishes, Wrasses and Parrotfishes,
  • Fishes, Index 2: Butterflyfishes, Cardinalfishes, Grammas, Grunts, Sweetlips, Snappers, Goatfishes, Jawfishes, Big-Eyes, Basses, Anthias, Dottybacks, Roundheads, Soapfishes, Damselfishes, Clownfishes, Monos, Hawkfishes, Croakers, Emperors, Threadfins, Sandperches, Miscellaneous Percoids,
  • Fishes Plus, Index 3: Marine Angelfishes, Tangs/Surgeons/Doctorfishes, Scats, Batfishes, Rabbitfishes; Triggers, Files, Puffers, Flounders, Halibuts, Soles, Really Old Fishes, Marine Reptiles, Marine Mammals,
  • Maintenance/Operation: General Maintenance, Vacations, Moving, Water Quality: Tests/Testing, Aquarium Repairs, Biominerals, Supplementation, Marine Scavengers, Algae ID & Control, Foods/Feeding/Nutrition,
  • Diseases: Identification, Avoidance, Causes, Organisms, Treatments & Pests: Acclimation, Quarantine, Dips/Baths; Disease: Prevention, Identification, Treatment, Pests/Control, Aquariums and Human Health, Chemicals of Use/Dis- and Mis-use, Pest Flatworm/Anemones/Worms... & Their Control,
  • Marine Topics: Media Reviews:, Books:, References, Sources, Writing, Diving, Travel Adventure, Photography, Videography, Sources of Mortality on the Worlds Reefs, Schooling, Public Aquariums,

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