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Update 5/8/2008 - Specialized FAQs Logs:
Just
Freshwater,
Brackish
Re: got prob again, GF, NNS.... hello dear Neale, you told me that fin rot may due to bad water quality but now this time water was perfect, so what do you think about the reason? <Perhaps perfect now, but maybe not in the past? Provided the water is good now, give medicine to the fish, and you should be OK.> and Neale I have 25 gallon tank if I use salt than the proportion would be 1 table spoon per gallon ? <No idea; weigh the salt using kitchen scales. Six grams of salt is a level teaspoonful, so if you must "measure" salt, use that measurement. So a dose of 3 g per litre would be one level teaspoon per 2 litres. This assumes "normal" teaspoons!> and what do you mean by (don't bank the salt on it) ? ..... <Doesn't work reliably.> how many days I cant change the water? <Do regular water changes (25-50% per week) adding the right amount of salt to each new bucket of water.> after that should I change the complete water or half ? or should I give bath in salt water? <Keep the salt in the water until the fish is healthy. Take care not to overdose! Do not add salt directly to the aquarium, but ONLY to each new bucket of water added.> thank you Neale ALI <Cheers, Neale.> Birth of baby shrimps Hi, My daughter is 7 years old and she is curious to know how are baby shrimps born. <Many different ways. Depends on the shrimps. Is this a school project or simply out of curiosity. If the former, that's not something we're here to help with. If the latter, the short answer is this: most shrimps produce eggs that float away in the plankton. After a while the eggs hatch and the "baby" shrimps pass through a series of larval stages until they become miniature shrimps that settle down onto the substrate. Although the details are different, the basic idea of a larval versus adult form is similar to the way larval butterflies (caterpillars) are different to the adults. Some shrimps, mostly freshwater ones, do not do this. The mother carries a few large eggs under her swimmerets and protects them. When they hatch, the newborn shrimps are perfect miniatures of the adults, and immediately walk about the bottom just like their parents. If you get some Cherry Shrimps from a pet store, they breed easily if kept well, and you can watch this at home.> Can you provide us the answer with pictures or video clip attached? <No.> Thanks, Esther <Cheers, Neale.> Re: Platy Water Hardness Very fun, I'm excited about this tank; I've never had freshwater shrimp before. I was thinking of Java Fern and Java Moss, but I could skip the moss and let the algae grow instead. <Indeed you could. But the Moss is great for the shrimps. It gets clogged with food and algae, and the Shrimps spend all day out and about, picking away at it like an "all you can eat" buffet.> I need to find either small pieces of driftwood or rocks but the LFS around me have huge gigantic ones that are really too large for a tank my size (20 gallon long). <Feel free to use plastic, ceramic alternatives. Once the algae/Moss covers it, it looks great.> Would putting crush coral in the filter be a good idea or looking for a certain rock to help keep the water "hard"? <If you have soft water, then yes, adding a little crushed coral would be a fine idea. Don't go wild, because you'll still need space for the biological filter media (sponges or whatever). But a 50/50 mix of relatively small pieces of crushed coral and biological media would be perfect.> I just looked up Lamia nigrofasciata and they look really nice! <Indeed they are. Quirky yet pretty. Also look up Heterandria Formosa (Dwarf Mosquito fish) and Micropoecilia picta (Swamp Guppy) -- both tiny, peaceful and very cute livebearers. Add a few Nerite snails, and you have something every bit as fun to watch as a reef tank, but at a fraction of the cost!> Cheers, Michelle <Cheers, Neale.> Re: Troubled Mollie Hello! I just want to thank you again for your all of your help. Unfortunately Moe didn't make it :( I was really bummed. <Ah, too bad. Sorry to hear this.> I wish I would have known about your website before putting them in a freshwater aquarium. His companion, Flo, is doing great. She loves her new tank, and seems to be so much happier. <Great! Mollies are just so much happier in slightly salty water, that you'll wonder why anyone keeps them otherwise.> Because of space issues, I had to go with a 16 gallon tank. <If you can, make sure the water movement is pretty vigorous. If they have to swim a little harder than otherwise, the tank will "feel" bigger. Kind of like a treadmill.> I would like to add some tank mates for Flo, but I want to make sure that they will mesh well. You mentioned that the bumblebee goby does well in brackish conditions, is a 16 gallon tank too small for them? <Should be fine. Awkward to feed because they must have live or wet frozen foods (like bloodworms) but otherwise lovely. Also look out for Chlamydogobius eremius, Rhinogobius duospilus, and Redigobius balteatus -- all small gobies of similar temperament and size that would work fine in a slightly brackish aquarium. Other options would be Rice fish (Oryzias latipes), Florida Flag fish (Jordanella floridae) and Wrestling Halfbeaks (Dermogenys pusilla). All good fish for small tanks.> I have read that they are territorial and should I say "grumpy"..... is this true? <Yes, but all they need is a cave (e.g., a seashell) plus about a gallon or two of space per specimen.> Should I just stick with live bearers? <If you want to. My current favourite is Lamia nigrofasciata, a funky little livebearer that's suddenly become quite common in England. It's very hardy, easy to breed, and tolerant of both fresh and brackish water.> Thanks Again, Lauren :) <Cheers, Neale.> Hi Rich, here's an update on my phosphate problem: <Hello, and sorry for the delayed response!> I received a TDS meter yesterday and measured the following: tap water: 49 RODI water: 5 (btw, stupid question: can I measure the salty tank water? the TDS gave an error message when I tried?)<Yes, but the reading will be higher than the tester reads.> Is 5 good enough? How can I get it to zero? My RODI unit (Water General) is pretty new and it was said that the filters last for a year (given that I only have a 40BR)..<You will need to add another DI cartridge to your unit or change the DI resins to new ones in your existing unit.> Btw, had started to increase the B-Ionic dosage a bit and now alkalinity is still 3, PH was closer to 8.4 and calcium 450. Looks like PH and calcium is pretty much at the upper level, whilst it seems to be difficult to increase alkalinity (btw, I have also used the same dosage for alkalinity and calcium, as that'd what the B-Ionic instructions say; would it make sense to increase alkalinity and reduce calcium to try to get alkalinity closer to 4?)<You can skip a few doses of the Calcium additive and add only the alkalinity additive until things balance out and then go back to dosing both.> I also got the phosban reactor and will install it this week-end and will be getting some more turbo snails. Hopefully this will get rid of phosphates/hairy algae completely (it seems a bit better already)...What do you think?<This is a good sign, but get the TDS to 0ppm as a priority and I would change the PO4 resin by now and add new. I would change it once every 2 weeks for the first 2 months and then change it once a month after that. You will see a better performance out of the product that way as it is stripping the nutrients from the tank faster.> Thanks, Sam-- <HTH, Rich> CMA2 on Amazon! Hi Bob, <Darren> I think I may have helped to get the ball rolling about a year ago when I asked in a post script if you had any plans to write a second edition of The Conscientious Marine Aquarist. I hope it was a worthwhile endeavor for you, and I am looking forward to reading it. I just pre-ordered it on Amazon. It says that it is due out in July. Maybe some day I can get you to sign it! <Will gladly do so. Wonder why all this takes so long... James Lawrence/Microcosm sent me a copy a couple weeks back... Is VERY nice indeed. Cheers, BobF> Take care, Darren White Tank Mates for Blue Spot Toby 5/6/08 <Hi Barbara, Pufferpunk here> I have a blue-spot toby (puffer) in a 75 gallon tank. What tank mates would be good, if anything, for this fish? I would like to add porcupine puffer, if you think that they would be ok together. <I do not suggest combining puffers of such large size differences together. In addition, an adult porc requires a minimum of 100g. How about a Valentini puffer? Also hardy, fast-moving fish like wrasses, damselfish & pretty much anything that does not grow too large or isn't too small, delicate or has flowing fins. ~PP> Thanks, Barbara RE: Aquarium Stand Leveling Mat – 05/06/08 Eric, <<Hello (?)>> Awesome, very good input. <<I’m happy you are pleased>> I believe a slight riser board to almost fit the tank would be a great idea. I would plan on putting the system in place, filling, allowing to settle, gauging any deviance and then taking it out and adding a shim across the areas, probably in front, to account for any deviation. <<Indeed…and do think to add “long tapered shims” to provide support for the full span>> It might also be able to be finished to look like a small base. Esthetics, you know. <<Ah yes, I know very well mate [grin]. Tis important to keep the better-half happy with the tank>> Shame, I thought the harder poly or rubber might allow settling to enough degree to take care of basic leveling by gravity :) <Mmm…too much potential for disaster. Crack a tank and spill 75 gallons of water on the floor and THEN see how your wife feels about things!>> Thanks so much! <<Quite welcome. Eric Russell>> Feeding Pholidichthys leucotaenia (The Convict Blenny) - 05/06/08 Eric, <<Hello Petar>> Please help me with http://www.wetwebmedia.com/pholodichthyidae.htm. <<Ah yes, Pholidichthys leucotaenia…the Convict Blenny. I kept a trio of these in a reef tank when I was stationed in the UK…wonderful fish! (Hmm, perhaps it’s time for another trio…)>> I got them very small with only one silver line in their back. <<Indeed…their juvenile markings>> How to feed them and with what type of food? <<Though mine were a bit secretive, they were never shy about showing up for feedings. They will eat most any prepared foods (flake, pellets), and will also take frozen foods very well (mysis shrimp, fortified brine shrimp, blood worms)>> I am supposing that this stripe will be split later? <<Yes…as they mature their markings will become broken and will take on a more “striped” appearance. Eric Russell>> BR /Petar Domino Damsel slowly declining, need more info 5/6/08 Hi Crew, <Hello> I need your help....my domino damsel is slowly declining in health and I am unsure on what to do next. <Let’s try to figure it out.> I have thoroughly checked all my levels...PH, Nitrite, Nitrate, Ammonia and Phosphate levels and they are all within acceptable levels. I am now doing this daily because my first fish I bought was the Domino and I do not want to lose him. <Numbers please, acceptable is too subjective.> All the other fish are fine so I cannot pin point any problems, the Domino is laying on the bottom of the tank for long periods and is very listless. It will occasionally swim around but looks disorientated, bump into something and fall back to the bottom of the tank. He is not eaten now for a couple of days and obviously I feel as though time is running out. <Not a good sign.> I have found your site very informative and read many articles but I can find anything like this. He does not have any visible deformity to eyes or body, no lesions or visible cuts etc and I can not see any thing that would indicate a parasite or bacterial infection i.e. no change in colour, spotting or fin rotting etc. I would really appreciate someone’s time and assistance, in advance thank you for your site and your help Regards Ian <Need more information here. How big is the tank, how old is it, tankmates, water parameters, corals/anemones present to start with. In the mean time check out here to see if you get any ideas http://www.wetwebmedia.com/mardisindex.htm .> <Chris> RE: Domino Damsel slowly declining, need more info 5/6/08 Hi Crew, <Hello> First of all thank you so much for returning my email, it is so good to know someone out there is willing to help. <We try.> Sadly though my Domino Damsel died during the night, I blame myself for doing too little too late, my 3 year old son is a little distraught as this was our first purchase when we started the Marine Tank. <Sorry to hear.> Again thank you for your help, I will be monitoring the health of the remaining fish very closely and if there are any issues I feel a little safer now that the Wetwebmedia crew are out there. With Regards Ian <Good luck.> <Chris> Re: Cyanobacteria 5/6/08 Scott V., Thanks again. <Very welcome.> I had mentioned that the Cyano was reforming, but I got home last night and there had been no real additional forming/spreading of it. <A good sign, caught it early.> I think that perhaps what I was seeing was the original Cyano that had been 'turned' by the vacuuming of the substrate, and perhaps vacuuming that substrate really well has removed a lot of the detritus and is slowing the Cyano quite a bit. Only time will tell. <Yes, it will!> As far as skimmers, I'm going to leave this one on here, and add an additional one. <OK> I can purchase a Prizm Pro for a good price brand new, this unit is rated for 300 gallons. Any thoughts on this model, being coupled with the Sea Clone 180 Gallon HOB model I have now? <None I wish to share too openly :) I would honestly seek another model for this system, regardless of price. Scott V.> Thomas Roach Guppies, Reproduction 5/6/08 How fast do they reproduce and are they livebearers <All your answers can be found here in an excellent article by our very own Neale Monks. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/guppies.htm > <Chris> Question about disease/illness in FW 5/6/08 Hello, <Hi> What is the most likely diagnosis for a fish that breathes rapidly and stays on the bottom of the tank. There are no physical signs on an illness on the fish's body. I have had this happen a few times and find it hard to diagnose and treat in quarantine. Both times it happened was when the fish was in my quarantine tank after purchase. Thanks for your help. Zach <By far the most common cause of these symptoms is water quality issues.> <Chris>
Comment -05/07/08 Hello, I was browsing your site for info and after reading through some of the faq I just want to point out that certain crew members are very rude to some of the people who submit questions. <Oh?> I just felt like commenting about it because I feel bad for the folks who have come to this site looking for help and answers and get a response pertaining to their poor English or failure to capitalize certain letters in their message without even receiving any info on the question they asked. <If you look carefully, you'll see we rarely say anything negative about the quality of English from people for whom it is a second language. It's pretty easy for us to tell from the e-mail address or the sender's name if that might be the case. In which case, we'll make an effort to "fix" the e-mail before publishing it on the web site. Our gripe is typically with lazy native English speakers. Britons, Americans, Canadians... whoever. For these people, there's no excuse. Of course we don't care about the odd typo or abbreviation... what we don't like is sloppy English that demonstrates that the sender didn't read (or didn't care to observe) our House Rules. Let's be quite clear about this: these rules exist for a purpose, not bloody mindedness. Most of our visitors come to Wet Web Media via search engines like Google. They've decide to find out something about Black Mollies or Whitespot or whatever the heck they're having a problem with. Search engines are only as good as the quality of the English on the web page being indexed. If that page has good English, the search engine will index it effectively; if that page has poor English, then the search engine can't index it properly. Simple as that. So that's the deal: people who ask questions have to make their messages easy for us to put onto our web pages, and in return the sender gets replies from people at the very top of the hobby. Not 14 year old boys who've set up their first aquarium and happens to have a subscription to some two-bit online forum (no offence to 14 year old boys!) but from people who have kept fish for decades, write books about them, and contribute to every major English-language aquarium magazine on the planet. Is that really too much to ask? I think not.> I mean, really why is it so important for someone to capitalize all the I's and insert the ' in can't.. Its not like you wouldn't be able to understand what the person is asking without them using the proper marks or capitalization. <As said above, it's not really whether we can read the message, but whether other people can use those messages. If the message is opaque to a search engine or unclear to someone who doesn't have English as a first language, then that message is worthless to us.> It just seems like newbies who ask questions here get treated differently because they might not submit their question properly or they might not know some certain basic information that more experienced hobbyists would know, but they are visiting this website to become more knowledgeable and some of the crew members are just a bit rude to them. <On the contrary, there are plenty of "newbies" who routinely write back thanking us and telling us how things have improved with their hobby. Speaking as an Englishman, I understand that sometimes my directness comes across to Americans as a bit sharp. But then the flippancy of many Americans comes across as irresponsible to me. So we all put across impressions through our words that may not really reflect the real person behind the message. That said, I'm not sure everyone appreciates how much work goes on answering these messages each day. Many of us -- for no money -- devote hours each week to going through the mailboxes. Our dedication to the hobby is tangible in that sense, and we wouldn't be doing this if we didn't want to help. All we ask is that in return people make an effort to help us. Keep the messages clear and properly written. Avoid laziness. Don't write messages like "text" messages on a mobile telephone. Basically the "golden rule" -- do unto others and you'd have them do unto you. Thanks for writing, Neale.> Re: red ear sliders -05/07/08 Hi Neale Thanks for the information. How would I be able to tell between a slippery slimy deposit of fungus or and algae that is also slimy and slippery? Thanks Christine <Hello Christine. Simple: algae is typically greenish brown, but can run from reddish through to blue-green; fungus is off-white, perhaps grayish. Hope that helps, Neale.> Sick fish in distilled water- yikes! -05/07/08 HELP!!! My fish is floating at the top of the tank. It is sideways so I can see it. Some scales are missing and it is hardly breathing. <Sounds to be on the way out, to be honest.> It looks normal apart from that but it is very skinny. <Suggest starvation... have you been feeding it properly?> I've put it in a separate tank with clean, distilled water. <Distilled water will kill your fish. Remove. NOW!> What is wrong with it and what do I do? Please help me save my fish. <No idea. Need you to tell me what the fish is, how big the aquarium is, what the pH and nitrite measurements are. Describe the symptoms. Then we can do something (perhaps). Cheers, Neale.> re: Calico Fantail is acting weird -05/07/08 Is it possible that my calico fantails are able to reproduce with themselves? <Yes. Cheers, Neale.> Calico Fantail is acting weird, no info. -05/07/08 he/she is rubbing against mid-water and near my other calico Twister I want to know why this is happening and Twister is less fat then him/her so I want to also know how to tell gender <... Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwlivestkindex.htm scroll down to the sections on Goldfish. You offer no useful data... Bob Fenner> Do goldfish need less food when they are older than 1 year? -05/07/08 Dear WWMC, You have a very informative site - thanks for all the effort that evidently goes into it. It's great to see such a wealth of experience about goldfish in particular. <Thanks for the kind words.> I have a query that I did not find an answer to on the site (though I did find a lot of interesting information): how do goldfish nutritional requirements change with age? <Doesn't change dramatically, though yes, bigger fish eat less food relative to their body size than smaller fish. This is in fact true across the animal kingdom. While elephants eat a lot, in terms of percentage of body weight, that food is much much less than what a mouse eats.> I have 3 fantail goldfish in a 30 gallon tank, along with a couple of Siamese algae eaters and some white cloud minnows. Everyone is peaceful and I never see the goldfish chasing the others, though they are now much larger. The tank is heavily planted, mainly with fast-growing, low-light things. <Hope this tank is warmed somehow: Siamese Algae Eaters (Crossocheilus siamensis) is a tropical fish and needs water at 24-26 C, slightly more than Goldfish like. Not a combination I'd have recommended, though viable.> The goldfish came to me when they were about 1 inch long, about 10 months ago. Two are now 3-4 inches and the third is more like 2-3 inches. The smallest seems to have a deformity in his mouth that stops him from opening it fully, so I think he gets less food than the others, but he is active and seems cheerful, so I leave him be, because I don't think there is anything I can do about his mouth anyway. <Mouth deformities are common in Goldfish, and as you say, they seem to manage.> My goldies get Hikari goldfish pellets and a variety of flake foods (different brands), they get some of the smaller pellets I put in for the white clouds (a community pellet mix), and they also have raw lettuce, duckweed, azolla (these they will eat until it's all gone) and the live plants in the tank. They love hygro, ambulia and similar plants, but they also seem to eat pretty much anything, including anubias, java fern, crypts and other things they are not supposed to like much. One thing they are surprisingly not so keen on is elodea, so lots of that is growing in my tank at the moment. <Perhaps less tasty than the rest of the (excellent) salad bar you're offering them.> I've also fed them sinking algae pellets from time to time, but not often recently, as I think they are getting enough. <Probably enjoyed by the Crossocheilus siamensis.> I have so far always fed my goldfish plenty, up to three times a day. This partly because it amuses them (and me) and partly because I hope that by keeping them well fed they will wreak less destruction on the plants. In the past when they have gotten hungry they have destroyed many plants, so I try to avoid that because I want the plants to keep growing well to beautify the tank and improve the water quality. <Provided there are plants in the tanks, your fish won't go hungry. So perhaps the way to work things is to establish the minimum amount of flake/pellet food needed such that your plants are basically left alone.> Lately, however, I have had trouble controlling the nitrate levels in the water (my target is less than 20ppm, but I have trouble keeping it there). I have been experimenting with feeding the tank less often or less food at a feed. Yesterday I even went an evening without feeding them. To my surprise this morning, there was no great plant destruction. They must have been hungrier than usual, but they hadn't then uprooted everything in sight. This is really unusual, and rather a nice surprise for me, actually. <Temperature is a critical issue I suspect: in warm water, Goldfish metabolism rises, and they become much hungrier. If the tank was allowed to stay cool, around 15-18 C, you couldn't keep the Crossocheilus siamensis of course, but the other fish would be fine and would eat much less food.> Could it be that my goldies are entering a phase where they need less food or are less driven by hunger to explore/destroy everything in the tank? They can't be at their maximum size yet, surely - they have good water quality, good nutrition and an interesting tank, so I expected the larger two to reach 6 inches at least before they stop growing. I am wondering whether maybe the first year or so is a time when goldfish do eat more and get hungrier when they aren't eating. If so, maybe I can look forward to being able to put more interesting plants in the tank and have them survive long enough to get rooted in and start to thrive - that would be nice :) Much as I like elodea, I don't really want the whole tank full of only that. <Goldfish growth rate *is* fastest when they are small, but it otherwise carries on regardless of age, so that the older the Goldfish, the bigger it is. Temperature and diet both feed into this though.> So, can you please tell me, how do goldfish nutritional requirements change in their first couple of years or with their first few inches? (Or maybe the right question is how does goldfish plant destroying change in their first couple of years?) <Essentially this: give them easier alternatives to the live plants. Try Sushi Nori for example, or blanched curly lettuce and see what happens.> Thanks very much, Helen <Good luck, Neale.> damaged frog -05/07/08 Hi, I was out walking and found this frog in the road hit by a car he seems to be ok except for his back legs, the flesh is tore and bleeding slightly. he is not using these legs and I can't take him to a vet I hated to leave him there because I know a car would finish him off. My main questions are what can I put on his wounds? and what over all should I do for him? I have him in a tank with a little water on two paper towels. He can hold his head up but the two inner thighs are split down on the seams exposing his muscles with slight bleeding like I said before. He hasn't moved at all either just now he moved slightly <Hello Candie. There's not much to do with a frog in this condition. In the wild this fish would be quickly eaten by a predator. You could certainly maintain him at home in a cool, damp enclosure with some water to paddle in and see if he improves. He probably won't eat much at first, but you could offer an earthworm or two. If he looks better after a few days, then consider "adopting" him for a while. We can offer some more detailed information on this issue down the road. Otherwise, painlessly destroying the animal is the most human way forward. Cheers, Neale.> Re: Caring for Aquatic Hermit Crab 5/7/08 Hello again, <Kathy> I just wanted to thank you for you great advise. We have added a great variety to his diet and his color is already improving. He has also gotten a lot more active like he used to be. My not so little guy never stops. He has even changed into a much larger shell - he thinks he is bigger than he is. I just love to watch him. Again, thank you for your help. I have pasted it on to my fish maintenance person so that he also can learn from it. <Ah, thank you for this upbeat update. Bob Fenner>
R3: Help with SPS – 05/07/08 Hey Eric, <<Hi Andy>> I just wanted to give you an update. <<Okay!>> Although my AquaC isn't here yet, I did frag the piece of Monti cap with a Dremel tool to cut away the dying/bleaching portion. <<Very good>> It's a good thing, too, because the portion that was dying just sloughed off in my hand. <<Mmm…a bad sign for sure>> The remaining piece (I was able to save quite a bit) secreted a ton of mucus, which I assume was a response to the rough handling. <<Yes…just “handling” in general>> I dipped the piece in an aerated Lugol's dip for about 7 minutes, glued it back to the base rock, and placed it back in my tank. So far, so good--no further bleaching. <<Excellent! It seems you intervened just in time>> Thanks again for all your help. Andy <<Was my pleasure. EricR>> RE: Tuxedo Urchin (mespilia globulus) spewing black substance -05/07/08 Hi Sara and Crew, <Hi> I would like to write a follow up regarding my initial inquiry about my Tuxedo Urchin, posted on your website on this page: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/urchinbehfaqs.htm Since writing you in mid-March, I have not witnessed the same occurrence from the urchin again. From the day it happened to present, the urchin continues to roam the tank looking as healthy as ever. It appears to be eating and excreting as expected. <cool> I acquired the urchin on the 5th of January 2008 and it has always been in the same tank that it released the black substance into 60+ days later. As for the animal's diet, my thoughts are that the amount of time the urchin has been in captivity wouldn't be relevant in this case, would it? <I don't know, it might be. Some animals take several months to truly "settle in."> I'm thinking not, but anything is possible. If there is any instance that you know of where an urchin would release bile without any obvious stressors in the chemistry of the water or because of fellow tankmates, or if you have other ideas about what the substance might have been, I am still very curious to know. <I'm curious too. I asked one of my friends who is a marine biologist. I showed him your video and he thinks it was either spawning or some kind of diarrhea. However, he had no information as to when, or why an urchin might have diarrhea. Whatever this was, it may or may not have been stress related. I'm sorry, but I don't think we'll ever know for sure exactly what this was or why it happened. If it happens again, try to collect a sample and take a look under a microscope. :-)> Thank you for all of the work you do, and have a pleasant week! <Thanks for the update!> H.C. Anaheim, CA USA <Best, Sara M.>
Calico Fantail Reproduction How long does it take for a Calico Fantail to reproduce with itself? and how long till the eggs hatch? <Depends on the water temperature. Goldfish are very difficult to breed in indoor aquaria (read: don't bother). In ponds, you basically leave them to it, and by the end of summer you'll have some baby goldfish. For more, see here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/gldfshreprofaqs.htm Cheers, Neale.> Calico Fantail Gender How do I find the tubercule and what does it look like? <Aren't we doing "please" or "thank you" today? In any case, if you can't see the tubercles on your Goldfish, they either aren't sexually mature or aren't males. They're very obvious on sexually mature male fish. Look a bit like white spots, but symmetrically distributed across the face. Cheers, Neale.>
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