Re: error (omission) in page information
Hi,
On this page http://www.wetwebmedia.com/AqBizSubWebIndex/disnfecnets.htm
I believe the word "NOT" is missing from the following quoted paragraph
(indicated where I have put ***)
- quote -
Formalin/formaldehyde is toxic in high concentration. Though it is a
frequently encountered household compound, it should *** come in contact
with your skin in full concentration.
-unquote-
Regards,
Debbie Carriere
<Yikes! Yes, thank you for this. Bob Fenner>

Sterilizing tanks/tools
Bob and associates,
<Anthony Calfo in your service>
How do I effectively sterilize quarantine tanks, nets, etc? 
<many ways>
My goal is to perform steps that would effectively eliminate all disease causing sources: bacteria, virus's, protozoa, parasites, etc. My specific questions are
below - I'm assuming bleach is the way to go, but if you have another suggestion's), please let me know:
1) Can I use common bleach - for example, Clorox Bleach for laundry? If so, are scented bleaches to be avoided? If swimming pool chlorine can be used, can you indicate the specific type of pool chlorine?
<yes if pure bleach, colorless, without fragrance, etc>
2) What is the proper dose of bleach and how long do the items need to be in contact with it?
<no hard rule.. one cup in five gallons of water for 2 hours surefire>
3) How do I ensure that all bleach is removed after sterilizing the items? (Soak in tap water for ?? hrs, then soak in tap water using chlorine neutralizer for ?? hrs?)
<nope...simple rinse and then application of sodium thiosulfate (dirt cheap) available as simple bulk "Dechlor". After just a couple of hours you will not smell any chlorine. Really... aeration in water or air drying is enough to dissipate chlorine very easy>
4) How are fluidized bed filters/powerheads sterilized? Just run them in the same bleach solution used for tanks/nets for the same amount of time, and then run them in chlorine neutralizer for the same amount of time?
<ehhh... I prefer to use an unstable medication/chemical for this like potassium permanganate or an overdose of Formalin. A good rinse and then some carbon and call it a day>
Also, I had a few other questions:
1) Do the German bulbs last longer than the Panasonic bulbs? I had heard that German bulbs last up to 3 years (with correct photosynthetic spectrum) vs. 1 year for Panasonic - is this true?
<do check the work of Sanjay Joshi on the Web. Iwasaki and Aqualine Buschke can indeed run toward three years. perhaps a little longer. They have amazing performance>
2) Are German 'actinic' bulbs a true actinic, vs. the 7100K blue Panasonic bulbs? I had heard that German 'actinic' bulbs were almost comparable to URI 'actinic' fluorescents.
<no experience/knowledge here>
3) I've read that ozone can convert ammonia/nitrite to nitrate (beneficial), but that you also have the risk of the ozone turning 'nitrate' back to the toxic ammonia. Is this true? If so, does monitoring the tank with an ORP controller and keeping ORP below 350 eliminate this nitrate->ammonia risk? 
<not a practical risk at all... relax, my friend. 350=425 mv would be a fine range of Redox>
If not, how does one deal with this risk?
<the risk is moot>
Thanks!
<best regards, Anthony>

Sterilizing Tanks/Tools II
Bob,
<Your previous reply was really from Anthony. Tonight, you get the opinion of Steven Pro.>
Sorry for coming back to you on this, but I'm still not certain on one point:
<No problem, will try to clarify.>
3) How do I ensure that all bleach is removed after sterilizing the items? (Soak in tap water for ?? hrs, then soak in tap water using chlorine neutralizer for ?? hrs?)
<nope...simple rinse and then application of sodium thiosulfate (dirt cheap) available as simple bulk "Dechlor". After just a couple of hours you will not smell any chlorine. Really... aeration in water or air drying is enough to dissipate chlorine. very easy>
Does this mean that after using bleach for sterilizing items, I can neutralize the remaining bleach (chlorine) by doing one of the following:
use sodium thiosulfate (for a few hrs).
or put items in tap water and allow to aerate (for a day?)
or just air dry for a day.
Will any of these 3 approaches work, or do they have to be done in combination.
<Any of the three procedures.>
Thanks - sorry for beating the question to death.
<Do not worry about it. If you had questions, perhaps others that read the Q&A on the daily page had them too. -Steven Pro>