Diatoms in Brackish Tank  1/29/04
Dear Pufferpunk,
<Yup, that's me!>
Thank you very much for the quick response. The organism (what I called algae) is brown, and looks like a slime (as opposed to a fur or hair). It seems to grow especially well on the dead coral, as stated, and on shells in the tank. If this is diatoms, how can I get rid of, or at least limit it?
<Diatoms are the natural occurrence in a newly set-up BW tank.  It will go away eventually.  For now, you will have to get used to a more "natural" look in your tank, or clean it as often as you wish.  Look through the FAQs at WWM, for more info on them.  I believe, overfeeding may cause them to flourish.>
To answer your question about how the undergravel filter works with
sand: I'm not sure yet, as the tank has only been running 12 days. As of now, it is an experiment. I actually put the intake tube for the external power filter inside the uplift tube of the UG filter. I thought Id try and get the benefits of both, in one system.
<The UGF has been running for 12 days, or the whole tank is 12 days old?  If you have only had the tank set-up for 12 days, then I'm afraid your puffer may be living in an uncycled tank.  Please keep a close eye on the water parameters.>
Finally, I have a few last questions: I read something about hermit crabs in a tank with puffers on your site. Was this only once they've been brought up to full SW?
<Hermit crabs can only live in marine conditions.>
And are there ANY invertebrates that clean tanks and can live
with puffers, something with a thick shell or some other defense?
<Only as puffer food.  You have no room for any other inhabitants in that tank.>
Finally, what about macro-algae? Would that do anything?
<Again, SW conditions for that too.>                                                        Sincerely, Wesley P. Hermann
P.S. Concerning getting a larger tank, I have a 29 gallon tank for him, once I move out of my dorm (There is a strict 10 gallon limit). So, in about 12-18 months, it will be in its final home.
<Sounds good.  Make sure you move everything from his present tank into the new tank, so it won't have to recycle.  Puffers don't fair well through a cycle.  ~PP>

Cotton-Like Fungus on Glass  8/31/04
Hi, Pufferpunk here>
I have a 20 gallon BW tank with two figure 8 puffers and two red finned sharks.  
<Red-finned sharks are not BW fish & won't appreciate the salt.  Are you using Marine salt?  What is the SG of your BW tank?>
I did have BW plants in the tank, but found that they made my water very dirty so I threw them away (water sprite and anacharis).
<Those are not BW plants & will "melt" in salt, as you have seen.>
Anyway, I noticed this white fluffy stuff growing on the walls of my tank.  I wiped down the sides to get rid of it, hoping my filter would get it.  It went away somewhat.  Then I did a 50% water change and it is worse than before.  Every time I do a water change it gets worse.  
<It sounds like you may be overfeeding your fish.  Excess food will rot & fungus will grow on it.>
I researched it and it sounds like cotton fungus.  I used some fungus remover, you put in 1 tsp for each 5 gallons and 24 hrs later you do a 25% water change and then add the same amount again.  When I added the second dose of fungus stuff, the crystals turned blue as I was pouring them in and now my tank water is blue.  Is this normal?  I thought maybe it might be a reaction with the fungus?  
<It sounds like your "fungus remover" carries Methylene blue.  This will turn the water & silicone blue, but the blue will fade on the silicone over time.  The fungus remedy you are using is probably for curing fungus on fish, not on glass.  It is never good to use unnecessary meds on fish, especially on puffers, whom are very sensitive to certain chemicals.  I would do a thorough gravel cleaning after scraping any fungus from the walls.  Do a 50% water change, while cleaning the gravel.  Add fresh carbon to your filter to remove any med.>
I am at a loss.  As far as I can see, the fungus is not on my fish, but I could be wrong.  
<How much & how often are you feeding your fish?  What foods are you offering them?  Here is a great article on your F8 puffers: http://www.aaquaria.com/aquasource/8puffer.shtml>
Any help would be great.  Thanks.
Michelle
<Here's hoping you will soon be fungus free!  ~PP>

Maid Service for GSP Tank? 3/7/04
<Hi, Pufferpunk again>
All right, everything so far has been right on point.
Thanks man.
<Hmmm, I'm a girl =o)>
Got the snail business down. Got the brackish water in
progress. Now, I have one GSP in a 20 gallon tank.
<Great!>
I would like to add just one more something or other
that can take care of a little algae, but something
that the puffer won't tear up.
<Algae growth also needs to be removed by the fish keeper.  There are no BW algae eaters that can live with a GSP.  (Sorry, you’ll have to do your own maid service!)  Because of their aggressiveness towards tank mates and the high amount of salt they prefer, there are not many fish that can live with them as companions in general, or for clean up.
Any suggestions or do I have to scrape around like I
hate doing (thank god for Plecos in my cichlid tank).
I thought about adding a little pleco but they get so
damn big. I want the puffer to have as much space as
possible.
<Only after my puffers were raised to SW, was I able to  “trick” them into letting me keep hermit crabs with them by scattering many empty shells around the substrate.  They just can’t tell the hermit crabs are there.  (Have lost a few though)  Of course, it's in a very heavily decorated 55g tank.  Check out my tanks if you wish: http://wetwebfotos.com/Home?actionRequest=userview&userID=1918>
I also thought about throwing some of my bigger snails
in there, but I guessed their tentacles would be
chomped over the first night. Thanks again ...
<Yes, snails=puffer food!  ~PP>

Brackish Clean-up Crew  3404
Hi!
<Hi, Pufferpunk here>
I have a 125g tank with sg 1.015 stocked with Colombian Sharks, Archers, Silver Needlenose Gar and a Freshwater Flounder.
<Sounds like an interesting tank!>
Sand is my substrate. What can I use as a "clean up" crew? I was told my sg was too low for hermit crabs and they are what I was mainly interested in. What would you suggest?
<Agreed, SG is too low for hermit crabs.  If you have somewhere for them to climb out & get some air, you could try fiddler crabs, or you could throw in a bunch of ghost shrimp.  As long as you don't add a puffer to the mix, they should make good maid service.>  Thanks in advance:-)
Ginger
<You're welcome, ~PP>

Re: A finicky eel? (no commentary?)
<Hi, Pufferpunk here.>
Ummm, was this supposed to have a commentary on it by one of the crew or was it just being sent back to me as an exact copy of what I sent?
<We were having some kind of glitch with this email.  I did respond to you, but something went wrong.  I'll try this again.>
A recent update: Over the past few weeks I've had a pretty stable setup in my 55 gallon brackish water setup. A nagging problem of how to get the ammonia, nitrate and nitrite contents down to nothing is my main problem.
<Bio-Spira works wonders for cycling problems.>
I still think that I'm overfeeding.
<Definitely can cause re/cycling problems.>
I find that odd even when I have an entire aquatic garden covering nearly the entire sand bottom. A total of 9 voracious adult mollies that devour anything and everything, only judging by taste if it's food or not. I don't understand how I could be overfeeding with how those guys devour food.
<Food=waste=ammonia=nitrites.>
Apparently of the fry I tried to save, 4 have grown up enough to swim freely amongst the others without fear. Meatball the Tetraodon nigroviridis has been growing steadily, and has actually taken to eating whatever variety food I drop into the aquarium. The two bumblebee gobies seem to be doing well, surviving with whatever bloodworms they can find before the mollies eat them all. I've had no problems aside from with a couple of guppies that I tried to add to the aquarium. When I put them into the quarantine tank, one guppy jumped right out of the water onto the floor on the first night, and the male counterpart died shortly after from fin rot.
<Sorry to hear that.>
I had also put in a weather loach, who had no problems at all.
<Loaches are FW.>
He ended up being called Jeac, reminding me of the cleaner shrimp from Finding Nemo. Jeac just cruises along the bottom vacuuming up the sand and siphoning out his gills as he goes along.
The entire point of my email is a new inhabitant. The new addition is a spiny eel ( Macrognathus aculeatus), who originally went into my quarantine tank after buying him. It was a low salt content setup with a pH of 7.2, nearly insignificant levels of nitrates, nitrites and ammonia, and had plants to make it look like it had a use to it. After hiding himself under the sand for a little while, he stopped trying to hide at all. Not more than the next day I saw him lazily laying on the sand bottom, taking slow, raspy breaths. He was faded and his gills were a bright red color, and that's why I checked all the chemical levels. I couldn't figure out what it was so I risked tossing him into the big aquarium. I found it very peculiar because in the big aquarium I had JUST done a 40% water change because of a very high nitrate and nitrite level. Even afterwards the levels were higher than the quarantine tank, the salt was much higher with a hardness of 15, and a pH of 7.6. Oddly enough he has recovered, and is much more active. He hides in a log during the daytime hours, and is constantly out exploring at night. My main problem is that I haven't seen him eat anything since I got him, which was 3 days ago. I was told that they eat bloodworms as well, but he hasn't touched any of them when I squirt them nearly right on top of him, and in the end the puffer and the mollies eat all of them. Will he eventually start to eat or is there something still wrong with him that I have to fix to restore his appetite?
<Although I have read in a few places that these fish can be kept in brackish, I think they do best in FW.  A little salt will probably be ok, except for the fact that you have a puffer that definitely prefers high-end BW-SW.  My 2 (6") adults are living in SW.  As far as your eel eating (for all I know, the problem has resolved by now after all this time... sorry), are you feeding live black/Tubifex/bloodworms?  Or frozen?  As these are wild-caught fish they are used to eating live food.  Also, some shy, nocturnal types are reluctant to eat in the light, so you may want to try feeding after lights out.>
BUBBLES BUBBLES BUBBLES!..... My bubbles!
(P.S. apparently I've become the second person in this entire area to have any expertise in brackish water aquariums, the fish compatible and especially the plants that thrive in that water. Looks like doing your homework pays off, although I have still not yet reached the holy grail of balancing the chemical levels in my aquarium.
<Sorry to say, those plants won't fair well in high-end BW.  If your puffer is small <2", you still have some time before you need to raise the SG.>
<I hope you get this response--Pufferpunk>

Excellent article on Scats!
Best I've read, thank you.  Some observations that you may find interesting.
Firstly: I have a 180 gallon brackish tank currently holding 5 Green Scats about 3 to four inches long (standard length)
<That's a nice big tank, but those fish are going to eventually get as large as a dinner plate!>
, a mono sebae, puffer, archer and a "Blue Prawn".  
<Monos are schooling fish.  Depending on what kind of puffer you have (green spotted (t nigroviridis)?)  It can grow up to 6" & eats crustaceans, like that prawn.  Puffers actually need to eat hard-shelled food to keep their "beaks" trimmed.  Are you feeding your archer crickets?  That's their natural food. You can train them to spit at them from quite a distance!>
The current tank is about 15 months old and is sitting at about 1.01 S.G. Temp is kept at 72 degrees.
<You need to raise the temp.  72 degrees is not really high enough.  78-82 would be preferred for "tropical" fish.  Especially the puffer (my expertise.)  Puffers are scaleless fish & are more prone to ich.>
I have a homemade wet/dry and the tank is filled with lots of rocks.
I purchased the Scats at about an inch of length and have watched them grow to their current size remarkably fast.  This tank is in my home office, so I watch them for many hours daily and can add the following to your article.
Behavior:  I would say that Scats definitely enjoy the company of other Scats.  
<Agreed.>
Though there is certainly plenty of chasing going on, I have NEVER seen a nipped fin.  I think my tank works well because of two things: The big tank, and the fact that the chasing is evenly distributed amongst the five, though there is certainly a pecking order.  That said, I've definitely noticed that the chasing has gone way down now that they are older.  Three of four times over the last 15 months I've witnessed a good old fashioned fight, apparently to move up in the pecking order.  Even then, never a nipped fin.  I would say that more time that not that there is no chasing going on, and I often see them all schooling peacefully together.  Most interesting is when they do a "group graze" all five side by side pecking at the algae covered rocks.  The Scats have NEVER bothered their tankmates.
<very interesting observations!>
Feeding: I feed them dry food which they prefer to take when it's sinking.  Daily they also get an assortment of frozen fish, mostly scallops, squid and octopus.  I recommend these three as the meat is dense, and a sharp knife easily shaves off bite-sized pieces.  In addition, these are not greasy or messy. Many other frozen foods, particularly fish (like Salmon, whitefish) clouds the water and makes a mess.  Once a week or so, they are treated to something fresh, like earthworms or an opened clam.
Questions:  I've considered taking the tank to straight salt, as I've read that they do well in it, but mine are doing so well, I'm inclined to just leave the SG at it's current range, 1.01.
<As the article says: "If you would be a Scat keeper, please understand this, these animals are found in fresh(er) water really only as juveniles. As they grow, they make their way down rivers and become marine."  Also, "For water density, at least two teaspoons of salt per gallon, (a value of 1.015 is my choice) made from treated tap water and a good synthetic salt mix. They may, of course, be kept in straight seawater."  I don't believe that 2 tp of salt/gal will make a SG of 1.015 though.  I have found it takes about 1 cup of salt/5gal to raise the SG .005.  Keeping fish in less than conditions natural to them will lower their immune systems, causing shorter lifespans, i.e.; earlier death.>   
Right now I do monthly water changes, and all is well.
<I do water changes every 7-10 days, up to 50%, cleaning the substrate as I go.  Especially w/fish as "dirty" as scats & puffers.>  
I don't have a test kit, I just bring a sample of my water to the local pet shop and they test it for me.  
<That can be a hassle.>
I think I want a test kit, but which one should I buy, fresh or salt?  Is there really a difference?
< I buy mine from www.bigalsonline.com.  The only SW kit you need is for ammonia.  FW tests for nitrate & nitrate work fine for both FW, BW & SW.>
Thanks again for your article, I've attached a photo of my tank if your interested.
<You're welcome.  Unfortunately I can't open anything I can't scan.--Pufferpunk>  
James Engel

Re : Excellent article on Scats!
Thanks for your reply.  I agree on all. Regarding the puffer, he is indeed a
spotted puffer, currently only about 3 inches (standard length) and seems to
be growing much more slowly than the Scats.  He and the prawn have already
faced off.......the Prawn (5 inches and a formidable foe) lost a claw and
the puffer got scratched up.  That was months ago, seems they have agreed to
leave each other alone.  I agree that when the puffer puts on a little size,
he will have fresh prawn one night for dinner. Now he eats the frozen fish
and LOVES the earthworms. He also very much enjoys the luxury of a full
clam, bullying his way past the picking Scats for a shark like bite.  It
becomes an interesting frenzy, what with the Scats picking, the Puffer
biting, then the Prawn comes in and tries to carry it into the rocks.
The Archer does indeed get crickets, he hits them like a bass hitting a
surface lure.  The Scats and Mono are the only ones taking the flake food,
but they take it eagerly.
<It sounds like you have a fun & interesting group of "friends"!--Pufferpunk>
Jim

Brackish, fresh, brackish? continued
thank you for the help you are giving me
<You're welcome; that's what we're here for!>
so when i will bring it at home i hope that
you help me step by step how to take care of the fishes
or i am asking too much ?
<Do read over the links I mentioned earlier; they will answer many of your questions before you know to ask them. Please do join the WetWebFotos forum; we have a good group of brackish aquarists there. (I do check that forum at least a couple of times a day, most days.) I do hope to be around to be able to answer your questions. I have not kept all of the fish you are getting, since I do not have a big tank, but some of the people on the WetWebFotos forum do have those fish!>
by the way can you tell me to whom i am talking exactly ?male or female? from where etc.?
<I guess this is my nudge to get my bio over to Bob...meanwhile, I'm a woman living in one of the Chicago suburbs.>
>my name is Aldo age 24 and i am from Malta
Eeh and when i will know what are all the species of the
aquarium i will let you know so that you can help me
<Do start with the search engine at the bottom of the FAQ page -- I know I do! --Ananda>

White thingies in brackish system
Hello to all at WWM
<Hello. Ananda here tonight, answering the brackish questions...>
I have a question concerning my brackish puffer tank.  I have noticed an unusual concentration of white patches all through my tank.  I thought it was just the usual algae, so I was about to clean it when I noticed it moving.  Upon closer examination it appears that I have dozens of tiny worm like organisms surrounding my tank.  What the hell are these things?  sorry for the language but in all my experience I have never seen nor heard of anything resembling these things  Thanks for any help you give.
Jason Alipio
<I have heard of these before, but have never seen them in my tanks. The person who had them said that they disappeared after a short while. They were apparently harmless.>
<In new saltwater tanks, there is often an explosive "infestation" of small coiled worms that stick to the tank glass. These are harmless and ephemeral. I suspect what you are seeing is something similar.>
<Do let us know if these become a problem. --Ananda>

Randomness (ariid catfish, brackish maintenance)
Hi again! 
<Hi Rachael!>
Sorry I write you guys all the time, but it's only because you give the most reliable advice around! I have an Arius Seemanni that I've written to you about several times and he's doing good, except that every few days he won't eat, I've tried everything in the store in regards to fresh food, (nothing live lately because it's hard to find feeder-type fish that will survive in a marine aquarium and that aren't in horrible shape like guppies and goldfish.) Anyhow, I have been feeding him raw shrimp and bay scallops for some time now and he used to go crazy over them, now he might eat one piece and then just continue prowling the tank, I have tried frozen krill and he shows absolutely no interest. Every few days he will just gorge himself on food and then the next two days he will just pick at it, is he just full? or is he silently complaining about the food? I know he needs a lot more variety, but I don't have the money to blend up a whole batch of vitamins and plants and fresh meat for one little fish, it would spoil too quickly, so I'm holding out on the big stuff until my tank cycles fully and I add more fish that will help him clean the plate (and clean up the mess he makes). He still readily eats flake food, but I know that's not the best for him so I only use it when I feel helpless.
<Feed less, a little several times a day, only what he will eat in a few minutes. Net whatever he doesn't eat out of the tank, it's contributing to your water quality issues. Try freezing your prepared food blend in ice cube trays and thaw a small portion to feed. It's very common to overfeed fish and spoil water conditions, which then leads to more problems.>
Ok! the next thing! My tank has had a relatively high nitrite level for about a week now, (I would normally assume that that's why the Silver Cat isn't eating, but his boycott of food is intermittent, so I'm not so sure) But how can I get these levels down? The ammonia is undetectable, and the PH is perfect, I know all the FAQs say Nitrobacter can't reproduce well until the ammonia is gone, but is it normal to take a week or more? I'm just worried about the long-term effects it might have on the catfish. I have added some live rock (I'm buying it piece by piece due to my extreme poverty -- that's the life of a student!) in hopes that it will help bring down the nitrites. The LFS said that water changes would be fine but really I have to just let this cycle out...What to do, what to do!
<This indicates your tank is converting ammonia into nitrites. This is very likely contributing to the stress on your fish. You need to do water changes to keep this under control!!! It will "cycle out", but it will reach a level unhealthy or deadly to fish! Also, make sure the rock you add is well cycled.> 
The last thing, I promise! I was reading some of your FAQs and I saw something about salt creep! I was stunned, there is even a name for what I'm seeing! All I ever see is warnings about not "salting-out" your fish, but what about all this salt that is getting away!? First of all, I know it's because of my pump and aerator, but I don't want to remove the aerator because there is really no other source of oxygen in my tank, the skimmer doesn't seem to be doing much in the way of oxygenating, so I didn't really know what to do. I don't like cleaning the salt all the time but if there's no other way then I'll just deal I guess! Sorry this email is so long! Thanks for your patience and help! Sincerely, Rachael
<Remove the aerator, they don't do what you think. They produce slat spray which you see in salt creep.
The skimmer oxygenates just fine. You don't want to see bubbles and they can actually cause problems. Hope this helps and you're doing well in school! Craig>

Advice about a tank switch
Hi Bob!
I wondered if you might be able to offer us some advice about switching over our current setup to a new tank. I wrote to you before asking advice about changing our brackish setup to full marine.. We aren't there yet, but getting closer.
<Okay>
We are currently running a 40 gallon brackish setup with two filters, a Fluval 404, and an AquaClear 500 the setup contains puffers, scats, monos and Chromides. As it sounds it's a little cramped as they've grown.
<I'll bet... and due to get more so!>
We recently purchased a new 72 gallon bowfront which we will be receiving this weekend. I wondered what is the best way to setup the new tank in a short amount of time so that we may rescue our little friends from their cramped living arrangements-if someone would only do that for us!. 
<What, and miss all the fun?>
Seems to me, that we should place substrate into the tank,
<The "used" on top of any new>
use the Fluval 404 Filters (it has been running on the existing tank for 5 months)
<Drain some to all the water out of the canister if it has to sit for more than a few minutes in transition... to keep the microbes alive>
and transfer some of the existing tank's water to the new tank and fill up the remainder to allow the tank to cycle. Is this right? 
<Move all the old water to the new tank... will be a bit gunky from the gravel for now... but will clear, be fine in a few weeks>
Obviously we'd like to move the fish as soon as possible, without jeopardizing their health or well being. I know the puffers will probably be the most sensitive to the change- they are sensitive about everything :} Am I on the right track here?
<Yes>
What would be the absolute shortest amount of time for us to make the change, without rushing things?
<A few hours... does the new tank have to go in the same space as the old? Please take a look here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/movingaq.htm and the FAQs beyond... the same concerns, protocol exist for your situation>
I'm thinking that if we do water transfers gradually we'll be able to successfully transfer some of the bacteria and lessen the cycle time.
Should we scoop some of the substrate from the existing tank and add it to the new setup to speed up the process of beneficial bacteria growth? Or am I completely on the wrong track here..
<Scoop and/or siphon all you can and place on top of the new substrate.>
Any help on the big move would be great. Hopefully it will result in a painless move for both the fish and us :}
Thanks in advance for your advice, it always helps so much.
Regards,
Amy Miranda
<Take your time... plan your move carefully, gathering tools, materials together as per a punch/checklist... and enjoy yourself. Think of the good you are doing your livestock, and how great all will look, be... ahhh>
P.S Your book is being delivered along with the aquarium :} Thank goodness!
<Know you will enjoy it. Bob Fenner>

Re: Figure eight puffer
Hey, Sorry about the "water X", I am in the medical field and it has become a natural habit to abbreviate "treatment" with a Tx or just plain X for me. 
<no worries, a'tall>
What would you suggest for water levels and how to test them, I
have owned tanks for a long time, but I would still call myself an
amateur for the fact that I have never paid attention to levels other
than the water treatment drops and the teaspoon of salt per 10
gallons. 
<with regular water changes (monthly 25% or better), basic testing would include pH, ammonia and nitrate. Keep a close eye on temperature and perhaps most important would be a glass hydrometer to confirm that you don't stray with your salinity>
I am a college student, so money is always a factor, but I
want the best for my fish (hence, this is why they follow me
everywhere). They bring me lots of joy and are a great stress
reliever. 
<very much agreed <smile>>
You also mentioned food like krill, Mysid, and
plankton...where would I find this stuff? 
<local pet stores should have some/all in the freezer but if not... shell on seafood from the grocery store is usually safe (be sure it is frozen and not fresh only... freeze if you must... helps reduce pathogens a little. Kindly, Anthony>

Cloudy water question...
Dear Mr. Fenner,
<Anthony Calfo in your service...>
I have browsed through your website (which is probably the most informative fish site I've ever seen, by the way), 
<an incredible amount of information and a great crew working diligently to publish so much more archived/stored... ZO, Jas, Mike, Barb, et al>
and I could not find an answer to a question I have. First of all, here are the specs on my aquarium: 20 gallon brackish (from~1.005 to ~1.008), pH ~8, temp 79 degrees, 1 whisper 20 filter, and also 1 bio-wheel mini filter, 1 Tetraodon fluviatilis puffer (green spotted?), 1 bumblebee goby, three mollies, 1 red claw crab, 1 crayfish, and some ghost shrimp (all get along happily, by the way). I have had the aquarium about 8 months now, and I have noticed that after the second or third months, the water became slightly cloudy. It is hard to describe, but it never goes away. 
<white cloudy is usually a biological haze overfeeding, overstocking, filtration flaw or deficiency while green cloudy is a unicellular algae bloom>
If you look through the tank from the sides, it becomes much more apparent. I have changed 50% of the water today, but I usually change 25% a week, and I always replace my filters. 
<actually a very good maintenance schedule... not faint at all>
I also notice that when I look very hard into the water, I notice some very very very tiny little slim white worms wiggling around and floating by every once in a while. What are these? 
<planaria usually and a dead giveaway for overfeeding. You are feeding to much or too fast (food falling and hitting bottom before consumed? If so this builds up in days/weeks and causes such problems>
They are almost impossible to see, but if I look hard enough, I guarantee they are wiggling. I only feed my fish about once a day, and some particles do drop to the bottom, however the crab, crayfish, and ghost shrimp are quick to eat it up. Is the cloudy water caused by too much food dropping to the bottom? 
<once again...I did not read far enough in advance <wink>>
What are those worms (or whatever they are)? Are they Ich (Can you see the ich worms as they float in the water?) 
<no...and, no>
Also, I just recently bought the crayfish about 3 days ago, do you think the worms came from him? 
<no as per above, but crayfish in a small tank are a recipe for disaster... very predatory and keep sleeping fish on the move at night>
At the pet store, he was kept in an immaculate tank, so I don't think that's likely. I'm scared, and hope the problem doesn't escalate, as I care for all my creatures very much, especially the sensitive puffer.
<little to worry about, my friend. Feed much smaller portions 2-3 times daily with little or no food hitting the bottom. And do remove the crayfish>
Also, I am interested in getting some Tiger Barbs. I have read on a few web sites that they can be acclimated to brackish water, is this true? 
<while they are indeed hardy... its unnatural and not kind or empathetic in my opinion>
Thanks for any help you can give me! Bob Lewis, California.
<best regards, Anthony>

Brackish Water Scavengers...
Brackish Water Scavengers...
Looking for a scavenger for brackish water. Any suggestions?
(if your tank is larger (four foot, 55 gall +) you have to like the Columbian shark catfish (Arius seemanni)...freshwater as a baby, brackish as a subadult and marine as an adult...but a very active scavenger. Anthony>
Chad.

cloudy water
I haven't written you before, but I did read some posted emails and articles in WetWebMedia, and I was hoping you can help me!
<I will try>
This is a long email, I'm trying to be as descriptive as possible. Here's an overview of tanks conditions.
Brackish tank = 50 gallons
ammonia & nitrite = 0 ppm
nitrate = 10 ppm
temp = 82 F
salinity = 1.017
powered by 2 Aquaclear 200 filters, UGF powered by 2 Rio 800's
ph = 8 (test kit lists either saltwater or freshwater... not a mix, so I have to guestimate the true PH)
KH = 9 dKH
tank is 6 months old. haven't added or subtracted fish in over 1 month
Plant tank = 25 gallons
ammonia & nitrite = 0 ppm
nitrate = 5 ppm
temp = 76 F
powered by a RIO 50 to circulate water and Aquaclear Mini.
PH = 7
KH = 5 dKH
Photoperiod is the same for both tanks... about 11 hours.
tank is 5 months old
*I added 1/4 oz of Flora Boost... contains only potash (K2O), about 2 weeks ago.
About 7 days ago, the water became cloudy with a very small white particulate matter in both tanks. It looks brown in the white bucket during a water change though. I did a partial water change (10%)with my brackish tank and stopped feeding the fish for 3 days in both tanks.
Maybe I was overfeeding?? I was wrong. Problem persisted. I did not change the food, exposed the room to any abnormal air quality, or changed filters during the time the tanks started to get cloudy.
<Interesting>
A key thing to note is that I haven't lost any fish... in fact, they are doing quite well... no spots, very colorful and active. (But I'm not willing to press my luck!)
... and another thing.. there is no smell coming from the tanks either.
I did add some Coralife at recommended dosages to bind the particles together, but to no effect. I just purchased some Activated Filter Carbon (phosphate-free) and added them to my AquaClears about 7 hours ago. Still no effect.
<... biological... it seems>
One last thing... I have been adding these chemicals reluctantly... before this I only have used UGF and the regular sponge filters and been doing 10-20% water changes a week. I've had this happen in the beginning (to be expected), but after 6 months??? Something's not right.
Thanks in advance,
Corey
<I do believe you're experiencing a "population explosion" of some/mix of micro-organisms (the reasons the precipitant and activated carbon aren't working) in both systems... could be "something in the air" that has settled in... or in the tapwater... moved about on gear... At any length, it doesn't appear toxic and whatever they are will likely disappear completely within a while (days, a few weeks)... I would hold off on much in the way of water changes... possibly look into borrowing a microscope, taking a closer look... likely a benign protozoan of some sort... Bob Fenner>

Algae eaters for brackish tank
Hi Bob,
I have been looking through your web site, and I must say it is the most
helpful site I have found yet. It's great, and I will be returning
frequently.
<Thank you for your kind words. Glad for the company>
Now the question that I have is, what type of algae eater would work in
a brackish environment?
<Mmm, there are some "pickers" like "Platies"... and some Hillstream fishes variously sold as "Suckers", "Loaches"... in the trade... But would look instead or at least in addition into better mechanical means, filtration, circulation... prevention... better foods, feeding practices... competition: growing live plants...>
Just to give you a bit of background on me and the brackish tank I
have. First off, I have been keeping fish for over four years now. I
have gone through many freshwater species of fish, and many size tanks.
As I have heard by many hobbyists, your first tank is just the
beginning of many more, and usually they continue to increase in size.
<Yes... we give out those goldfish to church and school carnivals... heh, heh... like a free first pack of Pall Malls (tm)>
Well I am definitely in that category. My girlfriend jokes that I won't
be satisfied until I have a tank I can swim in.
Anyway, I currently have a planted 10 gallon with some small fish and
snails; a 55 gallon that is now too small for my snakehead and Oscar;
and a 20 gallon that the water level is between 1/2 to 2/3's full that
is brackish. Now I would say that I am fairly familiar with keeping
fish, and I have gone through many things from breading platies to
dealing with disease, and all the other fun things that go along with
keeping fish. Ok, well I am getting a little long winded here, and I
don't want to bore you.
<Don't know if possible. Am easily amused>
The Brackish tank I have currently has 2 Monodactylus argenteus, 3
Bumble Bee Goby that I saved from a fresh water display at a local fish
store, 1 Figure Eight Puffer, 2 Fiddler Crabs, and a handful of Ghost
Shrimp that work as cleaners/algae eaters and food for the puffer
sometimes. Now surprisingly, everyone gets along well. The water is
about half what a marine tank would be. I try to keep it at 1.012
specific gravity, and the PH is in the high seven's low eight's. The
problem that I am having now is an algae bloom of some sort. The tank
has been up for over a year now, and the crabs, and shrimp have been
able to keep the algae at bay as well as periodic cleaning of the glass
by me. Now I asked a very trusted and reputable fish store in my area
for suggestions on cleaning/algae eaters for this tank, and they were
stumped. So I had to experiment. I added 2 aster snails ( I think that
is what they were called, they are Marine snails), but they seemed to
have died within the first day. 
<Have to acclimated slowly... weeks... to months... to widely differing water conditions>
Before I start killing more creatures,
I was wondering if you may have some suggestions. I know Marine tanks
use an assortment of turbo snails and hermit crabs, and I wouldn't mind
doing something like that. Hope that you could help.
There isn't much information on brackish tanks out there and I really
appreciate what you have posted on your site.
Thank you
Jamie
<Have much, MUCH more to go... Bob Fenner>

Re: Algae eaters for brackish tank
Thanks for the quick reply!
I printed out your section on plants for brackish tanks, and have to read that
tonight. That would be a good way to fix the algae issue. The one thing is
that I'm afraid the fiddler crabs will rip them up.
<Mmm, likely some... hopefully not too much>
They tend to rearrange the
plastic ones I have in the tank. Also, I didn't know that it could take so long
for the acclamation process for the snails, or anything. I generally acclimate
the creatures with in a few hours. I'll definitely keep that in mind for the
future.
<Most invertebrates lack an analogous integument to that of fishes (slime, skin...) and hence have real issues with osmotic and other in/out differences... Bob Fenner>
Thanks
Jamie

Brackish Algae... control
Hey I've had a brackish fish tank for about 4 months. I have some questions about what to do about algae? So if you can help me out I would like it.
that's Michael
PS. Do you know a good web site to bye brackish fish?
bye
<Mmm, you've come to a good place. Please review our Brackish section: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/brackish.htm and the many articles, FAQs, links, images, references on brackish systems, life, husbandry... Be chatting, Bob Fenner>

Re: Brackish Question
Thanks much for your quick reply. I added a little buffer to the tank over
several days to bring the pH down to 7.8 slowly to match my tap water and
then performed a 25% water change with tap water mixed with Kosher salt to
1.005 specific gravity (which I checked before adding to the tank and you
were right, the pH didn't change from the tap water). Everybody is happy
and over time, through the routine water changes I will inch the salinity to
the 1.005 you suggested.
<Ah, sounds good>
Thanks again,
<You're welcome. Be chatting, Bob Fenner>
Joe Scioscia

Brackish Question
Dear Mr. Fenner,
I'd like to start by complimenting you on your book, "The Conscientious Aquarist". It is my favorite pertaining to marine systems. When I wanted to take the leap from fresh water to a marine system, your book came highly recommended as a starting point. I have had no major difficulty (yet) with my marine system, but over time I find myself rereading sections as I have questions.
<The joy and luxury of book-length manuscripts>
The question I have, pertains to my brackish tank. My tap water here in Phoenix has a pH of 7.8 and I add Jungle Laboratories Aquarium Salt to bring the salinity up to about 1.003, so that both my Spotted and Figure 8 Puffer fish and my Loaches will be able to coexist (when I get a larger fresh water tank I will transfer the loaches: a skunk and a yo-yo, to that tank). My problem is that when I add the salt, the pH jumps to 8.2.
<You might try simple sodium chloride, even table salt, but kosher, ice-cream salts will get you around the iodide added if that bothers you... and won't elevate pH>
I only recently decided to check the pH, because my Loaches were getting slow and I had run out of ideas as to why. This is where I learned that it was the salt that was bringing the pH up.
Should I switch to R.O./D.I. water or a mixture of R.O./D.I. and tap and add the aquarium salt? 
<If you'd like... but I would try the solution mentioned above... Your livestock need the mineral content that R.O and/or Deionization of the tap would remove>
I am concerned that the salt in such a low concentration wouldn't have enough of the minerals the fish need. 
<Ah! You are correct>
Or should I use the tap water and Instant Ocean? 
<A good choice... but will also elevate pH slightly>
I have experimented with putting a little Aquarium Pharmaceuticals' 7.0 buffer to bring the pH down to 7.8 and the Loaches are much happier, but I am concerned that without dumping a bunch of the buffer in, it will wear-off shortly and the pH will jump right back up and the fluctuations will irritate the fish even more (the puffers don't seem to care one way or another). 
<Again... you might have taught chemistry?>
Another possibility could be to use the tap water and Aquarium Salt as I have been doing and use some 7.8 buffer (if there is such a thing), but this is starting to get to be more of a cocktail than may be sensible.
<Agreed>
I have a cheap outlet for R.O./D.I. water which I use in the marine aquarium, so I usually have some on hand and I also have plenty of Instant Ocean around, and I buy the Aquarium Salt specifically for the brackish tank and my stepdaughter's goldfish. Knowing what I have around, would you have any suggestions for creating the best water for my brackish fish?
<The protocols you mention are worth investigating... I would likely just add a source of sodium chloride (maybe to a slightly higher spg of about 1.005, and leave it at that. Bob Fenner>
Thanks much,
Joe Scioscia

RE: foam on top of brackish tank...
Hi Bob!
I read your response to this, and I think there's one other thing Joe
should check: phosphates. I had foam at the top of my 25high tank long
before I added the bubble wand. My phosphates tested at over 3.0!
<Yikes>
Now,
whenever one of my tanks gets more bubbles than usual, I check the
phosphates and find they are getting too high. I decrease the
phosphates, and the amount of foam decreases, too.
<Yes>
BTW, I *definitely* have baby Malayan snails in the 15g brackish tank.
SG is 1.006, temp is 76*. The other snails that are surviving are shaped
like miniature mystery snails.
<Those Malayan Snails are tough... I liken them unto aquatic cockroaches in terms of survivability. I will post your input to the foaming brackish tank in the hopes it will be seen by Joe, and onto the FAQs on brackish water quality in the knowledge it will be useful to others. Thank you for writing. Bob Fenner>
--Ananda

foam on top of brackish tank
Dear Sir:
I have a 35 gal hexagon shaped brackish tank. I have an undergravel filter
w/powerhead, a Biowheel, and an air pump running a large airstone in the
back of the tank. I had read somewhere that the tall tanks don't provide as
much gas exchange due to the smaller surface area.
<This is so>
that is why I added the
airstone. I have been noticing that I have a layer of bubbles or almost
foam on top of my tank. Is this normal?
<Yes, common... a good idea to use a tilted pitcher, clean paper towel to "wick" or drain off when doing periodic maintenance>
Have I got too much aeration? 
<To an extent... also from foods/oils... and salts in water...>
Do
I need a protein skimmer for a brackish tank? 
<Mmm, need? No... regular removal of the surface film should get you by>
Thanks in advance for any
help.
Thanks
D. Joe Hall
<Thank you for writing. Bob Fenner>

brackish tank
Robert,
I have a 55 gallon brackish tank with 3-3 inch moon's, 1-5 inch black
tail catfish, 1-5 inch brackish lionfish and 10 mollies. My fish are
doing fine. I'm having a problem with algae buildup though. I can clean
my tank sides and in a few days I have algae again. Is there any fish
like an brackish algae eater? Or a salt water algae eater? Or could I
get a freshwater algae eater and gradually add salt until he got used
to it? My salinity is 1.016. Thanks for any help.
<Mmm... there are some snails, algae eating shrimp that can be used to help at this spg... I would try to control the algae by other means... Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/algaeconMar.htm and the links/FAQs beyond to help you develop a strategy. Bob Fenner>