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FAQs on Brackish Water Livestock Selection

Related Articles: Brackish Water Livestock Selection,  Purchasing, Transporting and Settling New  Freshwater/Brackish Water Livestock by Neale Monks Brackish Livestock, Brackish Plants, Fresh to Brackish Fishes, Brackish InvertebratesThe Brackish Waters of the Bayou: Native brackish water fish for the home aquarium by Neale Monks

To FAQs on the above groups: See their articles for links. Brackish Water Systems in General,

 

Brackish tank inquiry... set up, stkg... mistakes... leaping before looking...    7/11/09
Dear WWM,
I have a ten gallon freshwater tank, in which I have kept a Java loach, and two firebellied toads for almost two years. Recently I transferred them all to a friends house while I was on vacation so that she could watch them for me, and the toads managed to squeeze through the gaps in the tank and, essentially, "run away".
<Ah, in other words, ended up dried out on the carpet. Scientist that I am, I tend to avoid euphemisms where possible, because they often allow us to dodge reality and avoid responsibility. Yes, amphibians should always be kept in tanks with tight-fitting hoods.>
After this, I decided to make the tank a full tank, and add some new fish. My choices were a snail, some ghost shrimp (the loach got used to eating the crickets that were meant for the toads, and has refused to eat pellets and flakes since they disappeared, so they're for him,) a Pleco, and of course, a 3" Silver-tipped Shark.
<Shrimps and snails make great choices for 10-gallon tanks. But a Plec? Or Sciades seemanni? Insane choices! Plecs get to a good 45 cm in length within two years, and the Sciades only a bit less. In any event, Sciades seemanni is a migratory, schooling fish that needs a lot of space as well as tankmates of its own kind; kept singly, they invariably become neurotic, pacing water in one corner of the tank, and clearly unhappy. Within the group they make all kinds of audible clicks and other sounds, so it's obvious they're constantly "talking" to one another; without the comfort of other members of their own species, singletons must have a pretty miserable life.>
Upon getting home, I decided to do some research beyond what the pet store told me, and stumbled across the knowledge that my shark is doomed to a slow death if I don't transfer him to brackish water, and eventually a larger tank.
<The old mistake of doing research after buying the fish. Yes, Sciades seemanni is a big fish that needs brackish water. Of course, I'm assuming your Silver-tip shark is Sciades seemanni, as opposed to the non-brackish, but equally big and gregarious Silver Shark Balantiocheilus melanopterus.>
Now, the larger tank I can scrounge up fairly easily in time, but I was wondering if the other fish would be alright in brackish water.
<What other fish? The shrimps and the snails are Shark Catfish food; as for the Plec, no, it can't be kept in brackish water, and no, loaches can't either. So, all pretty simply. If you add enough marine salt mix (not tonic salt, cooking salt or aquarium salt) for the Sciades seemanni to be healthy, you'll kill the other fish. Juvenile Sciades seemanni are happy around SG 1.005 at 25 C, which is about 9 grammes of marine salt mix per litre; adults will need around half-strength seawater up to fully marine conditions; aim for SG 1.010 at 25 C, or about 15.5 grammes of marine salt mix per litre.>
I looked around to see what I could find, and most of the sites I found only seem to list things like how to breed them, how big they get, what they eat, etc. I know that I'll have to move at least the shark soon (this is day one of him being in my tank, and he seems lethargic already,) unless the others can handle the brackish water he needs.
<The eat primarily molluscs and crustaceans in the wild, so squid, cockles, mussels and prawns all work well, as will small portions of white fish (frozen lancefish are ideal). Keep the diet varied to avoid problems with thiaminase (mussels and prawns contain a lot of this dangerous enzyme).
They generally take good quality catfish pellets readily. Aquarium specimens generally get to about 20 cm or so in length, but they can get bigger. Breeding doesn't occur in captivity.>
Also, if I do end up needing another tank to move him into immediately, I want to know which of the other fish, if any, I could move into it with him.
<Sciades seemanni get along extremely well with other brackish water fish of similar size: Monos, Scats, Archerfish, Green Chromides, etc. They also work well in marine aquaria with non-aggressive Damsels, Tangs, Angelfish, Lionfish, etc.>
I don't want to buy more Silver-tips,
<Not an option really; these are very sociable fish that need to be kept in groups of at least three specimens.>
since they do grow so large, but I can't stand the thought of returning him to the store that sold him to me, and abandoning him to his fate. Thanks in advance for whatever help you can give me. :)
Oh, in retrospect (seem to be doing that a lot today) is the fact that he's venomous actually a danger to my other fish?
<No danger at all; only a danger to you, if you net the thing clumsily and jab yourself on his pectoral and dorsal fin spines. These fish, though predators, are extremely gentle towards anything they cannot swallow whole.>
The loach has been known to pester his tankmates.
<Well, he won't be in the brackish water aquarium, so shouldn't be an issue.>
Thanks so much for reading this,
Kristen
<Do please read around the subject of brackish water fishkeeping, either here in WWM, or in my book, Brackish-Water Fishes, which your library might be able to get, even if you don't want to buy a copy. Cheers, Neale.>

Tank mates (brackish, freshwater; selection) – 6/14/09
We have 3 tanks. 55 gallon, 29 gallon, and 20 gallon. The 55 gallon has 2 Plecos, 2 Raphael's, 3 guppies, 4 small regular Gourami's, 5 dwarf Gourami's, 7 small angel fish, 4 kuhlii loaches, 3 horse face loaches, 3
serpae tetras, 3 transparent tetras, 2 red Dalmatian Mollies, 3 common platys, 1 sword tail platy.
<That's quite a collection! I wouldn't recommend mixing Serpae tetras with Angelfish or Guppies though, as Serpaes are notorious fin-nippers.>
The 29 gallon has 1 horseface loach, 1 Beta, approx 20 neon tetras, 5 Glo fish, 3 serpae tetras, 2 common platys.
<Keeping Serpae tetras with Bettas (note the double "t", it rhymes with "better") is another no-no.>
The 20 gallon has 1 green spotted puffer, 3 Dalmatian Mollies, 4 tiger barbs and 1 small algae eater.
<What's an "algae eater"? Do you mean Pterygoplichthys sp "Plec" or a Sucking Loach, Gyrinocheilus aymonieri? Neither of these will live in a 20 gallon tank for more than few months, and Gyrinocheilus aymonieri is infamous for becoming extremely aggressive when sexually mature at around 20 cm/8 inches. Both these fish get to 30 cm/12 inches in length, and even the 55 gallon tank will be cramped.>
We have been slowly turning the 20 gallon tank to brackish water and it's about full brackish now and all of the fish seem to be doing fine, even the tiger barbs and algae eater.
<If this tank is full brackish, the barbs would be dead. So what do you mean here? Adding a teaspoon of aquarium salt per gallon isn't "full brackish". Even at a low level for brackish water fish, say, a specific
gravity of 1.005 at 25 degrees C, that's 9 grammes (about three level teaspoons) of marine salt mix per litre of water, 1.2 ounces per US gallon.
The Green Spotted Puffer will of course get much too big for a 20 gallon tank; adults are around 15 cm/6 inches in length.>
Do I need to move anything from the 20 gallon to another tank?
<Yes; the barbs and the "algae eater" whatever it might be. Nerite snails are (by far) the best algae eaters for brackish water tanks, but Puffers do tend to view snails as food, so this is a risky move.>
If so, which of the tanks would they fair best in? Also, I would like to get a dragon goby to put in the 20 gallon tank. Would this be acceptable?
<Not a chance. Again, Gobioides broussonnetii is a big fish, in fact one of the biggest gobies of all, getting to 50 cm/20 inches in the wild. As such, it needs a big tank, 55 gallons being a fair choice for a single specimen.
It's a poor choice for life with a Pufferfish, given how aggressive mature Green Spotted Puffers tend to be.>
Thanks, Pam
<Cheers, Neale.>

Re: Tank mates (brackish, freshwater; selection) – 6/14/09
I haven't just been using regular aquarium salt in the 20 gallon. It's marine salt.
<Good stuff! Don't use regular aquarium salt at all; it's plain cooking salt, and I don't need to tell you the sea (or brackish water habitats) aren't just cooking salt and water! Aquarium salt is specifically for use as a medication for freshwater fish. It has no value in either brackish or saltwater aquaria.>
I will test my water better and get back with you. In the mean time, are you saying the dragon goby would do ok in the 55 gallon fresh water tank?
<Definitely not saying this! Dragon/Violet Gobies (Gobioides broussonnetii)
may last a few weeks or even months in freshwater aquaria, but they invariably sicken and die prematurely. So unless in the very short term -- i.e., a few weeks while you're re-jigging your aquaria to free up the 55 gallon as a brackish water system -- I would recommend strongly against adding the Goby to the a freshwater tank.>
Also, I know the Serpaes don't usually mix with the angels and such, but they have been ok so far. Are you suggesting I should remove them anyway?
<Serpae tetras were my very first tropical fish. I quickly learned that they attacked Angelfish and Gouramis. They actually have a feeding frenzy, and you'll often see shredded fins in tanks containing just Serpae tetras, especially the long-finned variety. I'd recommend only ever keeping them alone, or with things that hide all the time, such as nocturnal catfish or loaches. I honestly don't recommend them at all as community fish. Hardy and pretty yes, but well behaved, often not. As always, your own experiences will vary, but if you see damage to the fins of other fish, or suddenly find yourself having to deal with Finrot because a fish has been nipped, you'll have your answer.>
Also, will the barbs be ok with the fish that are in one of my other two tanks?
<Tiger Barbs tend to be nippy, especially when kept in insufficient numbers (less than ten). So again, choose tankmates very carefully. Like Serpae tetras, Tiger barbs are not a species are recommended, and indeed most aquarium books will state clearly "not with long-finned or slow-moving fish" or words to that effect. On the other hand, Tiger Barbs work great with tetras, barbs, loaches and other fast-moving fish.>
Thanks, for your help. I love my fish and don't want to hurt any of them,
<Jolly well hope not!>
but as you can see, I like a wide assortment.
<That's fine, and in fact part of the fun of the hobby. It's like being zoo keeper who gets to collect all kinds of fun animals. But do review their needs prior to purchase. If you don't have a book to hand, and you can't find anything here at WWM that helps, feel free to ask us about a fish on offer at your pet store. We're not selling anything, unlike the guy at the store, so our advice is as unbiased as can be.>
Pam
<Cheers, Neale.>

Brackish Stocking – 05/03/09
Hi. First off, I find your site very informative and helpful. For one, I was about to use Zeolite in my brackish tank, but found out it would pump ammonia into my tank...
My 29gl set up is as follows...
- 3 Juvy monos and a goby.
- ph 8.0 SG 1.008
1) I was thinking of sealing the openings of the tank, adding a turtle dock and putting some fiddler crabs in there. Would the monos/goby eat them?
<Given half a chance, yes. More specifically, Fiddlers really aren't going to be happy on a turtle dock; they're burrowing animals that spend most of their time on land. They work well in tanks with a little water but big mounds of sand and bogwood.>
2) One of the monos bullies the other two to no end. It doesn't seem territorial because he just goes after them wherever they are. I feel like adding more monos but I know as adults they get large and when I upgrade to a larger tank say 55gl, it still wont be large enough for them.
<This is, unfortunately, quite common. I find mixing Monos, West African Monos, and Scats solves the problem. They school together well enough, without actually being violent. In groups of 6+ Monos generally settle down, but it is far from uncommon for people to end up with just a single (or a mated pair) of Monos per tank. All this said, 29 gallons isn't nearly enough for Monos; realistically, you'll want a tank twice that size.>
3) I could add Mollies to the tank but I've read in some cases, gobies attack them as well.
<Knight Gobies are predatory and certainly will eat small fish. They're not really nippy though, and given sufficient space, Sailfin Mollies should work fine with them.>
4) Donate my monos somewhere and restock the tank using the goby as a guide for suitable tankmates (suggestions?). I am not married to the monos and I find the goby very charming...
<Knight Gobies are actually very good in groups, when you see some of their midwater territorial behaviour. They also work well with Glassfish, Orange Chromides, small Archerfish species (such as Toxotes microlepis, though this prefers a lower salinity, SG 1.005 or less). Other compatible goby
species include Butis butis and Violet/Dragon Gobies. At a low salinity (SG 1.003) you could also keep Asian killifish, Florida Flagfish, and catfish such as Hoplosternum littorale or the "small" variety of Mystus gulio.>
I suppose I could try 1) - 4) above and monitor all this for a few hours but I wanted to see what you think before I add anything else to the tank.
<Do peruse my Brackish FAQ for some comments and thoughts on other brackish water fish, here:
http://homepage.mac.com/nmonks/Projects/brackishfaq.html
>
Thanks in advance
Michael
<Cheers, Neale.>

Question about Brackish Tank, stkg.  5-10-09
I had emailed before when I had figure 8 puffers and a Pleco together in a Brackish tank.
My Puffers seemed healthy up until the last day and then died.
The Pleco seems to be doing well and thriving in the brackish water.
I am wondering how long I should wait after 2 fish have died to add any new ones.
<It is good to figure out why your fish originally died before adding more.>
Also what fish would you recommend for a 26 gallon brackish water tank with the Pleco that are hardy fish.
I have looked up a little information and was recommended these species:
Etroplus suratensis, Etroplus maculatus, Datnioides microlepis, Poecilia species
<I would not recommend the Etroplus suratensis (Green Chromide) because they get very large and a 26 gallon tank is not large enough. The Etroplus maculatus (Orange Chromide) would be great for your tank. The Datnoides microlepis (Fine scale tigerfish) also get too large for a 26 gallon tank.
Of the Poecilia species I would recommend the short-finned molly (Poecilia sphenops). They would do well in your brackish 26 gallon tank with plenty of room to spare.>
What combination of these fish would you recommend and how many of each species?
<You could easily get 5-7 short-finned molly's and maybe 1 or 2 of the orange Chromide. Both fish species are non-aggressive.>
Thank you, you guys are amazing!
Candace
<You are welcome! Merritt A.>

Advice for brackish with marines – 02/19/09
I have a 75 gallon brackish tank which I've converted to saltwater over the last year. stocked with 3 green scats, 1 Monodactylus argenteus, 2 Gymnothorax tile morays, many snails and 2 Sailfin mollies. SG of 1.022. currently shopping for larger (150 gallon) tank as the scats are getting very big. I would like to add marine fish to my tank but unsure how they will mix with my brackish fish.
<In my personal opinion a 150 gallon tank will be quite well stocked with what you have already. Scats as well as Monos produce a copious amount of waste, as may the morays, which when grown may try to eat at least the Sailfins, maybe some the others, too. If you disagree with my opinion in terms of enough space for further additions, only choose assertive species and fast eaters, which can compete with the Scats and are large enough to be safe from the eels. Such fish mix well with the species you have.>
Are Scats or Monos reef safe?
<Scats have often been used to clear marine tanks of algae and even Cyano bacteria, Monos are also commonly seen in large, public FOWLR tanks. However, both are known to sometimes pick on coral polyps and in a home aquarium of 150 gallons I believe the damage they can do will be too much for the corals to survive. Also, the waste they produce will make it difficult to let any but the least demanding corals grow. You can try some small frags from a friend, maybe mushroom polyps, but don’t expect too much.>
or should i try sticking with fish only or a FOWLR tank?
<These options have better chances for success.>
thanks for your advice, not much literature on scats or monos in marine tanks.
<No, because this combination is only common in very large, public FO and FOWLR setups where both can be kept in larger groups.>
Brian
<Cheers, Marco.>

Puffers/Turtles/Overstocking=Doomed Tank  – 10/24/07
Yeah, I'm new with the whole "fish thing" and I have 2 turtles, one soft (size of a 1/2 dollar) and red eared (sized of a quarter), I also have two fiddler crabs, 13 tiger barbs, 2 gourami, 2 fire mouth cichlids, 7 pretty feeder fish and a fat guppy, 2 Chinese sucker fish, and 2 zebra danios....
<OMG! Not all in the same tank with the 3 GSPs?!!!>
I know, I have WAY too many fish, and my LFS said it would be fine (obviously) to have all these fish (except put the turtles in a giant aquarium or kiddie pool when they get bigger....
<You know but you do this anyway? I don't get it. Turtles eat fish. They need to be removed. Anything that takes a bite of those puffers will die. >
I definitely cannot afford to get a bigger tank.
<Well, you already know the turtles need a huge tank.>
or even any size to put the other fishes in. I can't sell them back either because I love them. What should I do? Are they all just going to die?
<Yes, everything in your tank will die from being poisoned by their own waste (No amount of water changes can keep up with what you are housing) or eaten by the turtles & puffers. Forget about how much you "love" them (if you truly loved them, you would have researched their needs first) or whether the shop will give you any money for them. Return the puffers, feeders (do not belong with tropical fish), turtles, crabs (they need some land), at the minimum! ~PP>

Ideal Brackish Livestocking?  9/7/07
Hey WWM crew,
I have a 125 gal tank that is brackish (1.015 spec. gravity). It has about 100 gallons of water in it (water level lowered for mudskipper). At the moment, I have a mudskipper (who loves his floating log!) and a fluctuating school of mollies (breeding, eating, breeding, eating...). This tank is at a science museum, and I want to stock it with a good variety of species to demonstrate the awesome, often overlooked species of brackish communities.
This will be a whole display area about estuaries and how to protect them.
The specific gravity does not have to stay so high (I know to lower it gradually if needed). What would be your "dream team" of brackish fish (and inverts!) in this tank? If you could give me different scenarios for different salinities (that the mudskipper would still be okay with), that would be great. I found the place on the site on "brackish livestock selection", but it only considered smaller tanks for lower salinities. Any help would be greatly appreciated! PS--tank chemistry: ammonia 0, nitrites 0, nitrates always below 40. pH around 7.9.
Thank you!!!
-Melissa
<Hello Melissa. Well, I could start by telling you to get hold of a copy of my book, "Brackish Water Fishes" from TFH. That covers just about all the species you're likely to see in the trade. Over here on WWM, my article "Brackish Livestock Selection" covers three scenarios divided out by salinity as well as tank size. The final set of suggestions specifically covers large, high salinity brackish water aquaria, and is perhaps most relevant to you (http://www.wetwebmedia.com/BrackishSubWebIndex/brlvstk_sel.htm). Now, mudskippers make things a bit complex, because they respond to other fish in particular ways. If the fishes in the tank are too small... they eat them. But if the fishes in the water are big and active, the mudskippers stay on land more of the time, which isn't necessarily good for them. Mixing them with anything other than gobies and livebearers therefore tends to be dodgy. As such, I'd tend to be looking at medium sized things like knight gobies (Stigmatogobius spp.), violet gobies (Gobioides spp.), orange Chromides (Etroplus maculatus), and perhaps (Anableps spp.) if you can get them. Flatfish such as Brachirus and Trinectes spp. would also work well, though they're something fiddly to feed, being nocturnal predators on insect larvae and the like. All these fish would prefer a slightly lower SG, maybe 1.010-1.012, as would, incidentally, your mudskippers. In terms of education value, all of these suggestions exhibit quirky things. Violet gobies are highly specialised to feed on algae and small invertebrates they either get by gulping water or from sifting mud. They have big mouths, tiny but sharp teeth, and rudimentary eyes. They live in muddy estuaries. Anableps have adapted to feed on insect larvae (midges and mosquitoes mainly) that are very common in shallow brackish water. To avoid predators from above they have eyes that see above the waterline. They are livebearers as well. Chromides are cichlids, but of a very primitive sort, and closely resemble the marine ancestors from which the rest of the cichlids evolved. As such, they're a kind of living fossil. They are also among the few non-marine "cleaner fish", picking parasites off larger cichlids, Etroplus suratensis, that live in the same habitat. They generally breed readily in aquaria, and as such are good value to watch. Knight gobies are classic gobies in shape and lifestyle, and given that gobies are perhaps THE definitive brackish water fish group, make a useful addition to the tank. They are rather predatory though, and will quickly work through excess molly fry! If you were feeling adventurous, you could try one of the smaller puffers (Tetraodon biocellatus would be ideal) and even spaghetti eels (Moringua spp.) if your retailer can get hold of them. They're lovely mini-moray eels (~40 cm) that feed on insect larvae and dig into the sand. Totally harmless and very easy to keep. Invertebrates for the brackish water tank can be fiddly to obtain, but my favourites would include Clibanarius tricolor (the blue-leg hermit kept in reef tanks), Nerites such as Vitta usnea, and even small crabs like Uca spp. Hope this helps, Neale>

New tank set up, FW leaning to BR. Bumblebee Gobies...      5/11/07
Hi all,
<Hello!>
Its been a while since I last wrote in.  I am about to be the proud  owner of a new 60 gallon tank. Wondered if you could answer a few questions as my  set ups have never been this large.
<Will do my best.>
I now plan to keep tropical fresh water fish.  I love the  brackish fish especially the bumble bee goby and wondered if they could be  adapted to the fresh water environment.
<Basically no. A few supposedly brackish water fish are actually freshwater fish that tolerate salt, such as glassfish and wrestling halfbeaks, and these are obviously fine in freshwater. Bumblebee gobies are a mixed bag. Some species are found in freshwater and can potentially be kept in even soft/acid conditions. However, identifying bumblebee gobies to species level is basically impossible for aquarists. So as a default position, BBGs are best kept in a brackish water tank (and ideally a single species one, as they're quite tricky to feed).>
Brackish fish are quite hard to  find here in Scotland and I found my choice limited hence the decision to go  freshwater.
<Often people don't realise the variety of brackish water fish out there. Besides the things like scats and monos, there are also numerous cichlids that do well (if not better) in brackish water, and there are also a few marine fish that thrive in (strongly) brackish water, such as various Arothron and Lutjanus spp. as well as a few inverts, like blue-leg hermit crabs. Agreed, brackish water fish are not easy to obtain on a single trip to your pet store, but over the year you are bound to see many different types. In the UK, you have some good options for mail-ordering fish, with stores like Trimar Aquaria and Wholesale Tropicals offering overnight delivery. Skim through a copy of a British fishkeeping magazine like PFK and you'll find lots of such dealers. These places often have lots of brackish water fish, and would be able to plug any gaps you can't find locally. I'll add that when I live in Scotland (Aberdeen) I didn't have much trouble getting brackish water fishes. There were a couple of decent shops in Aberdeen plus another in Dundee. Trips to Edinburgh or Glasgow would likely be rewarding, too.>
I also plan to have some clown loaches how many I believe they like to be in groups.
<Correct, they are sociable, and best kept in at least trios.>
I have a supplier near by also that stocks mollies reared in fresh water will they thrive the same?
<Rearing mollies in freshwater doesn't change anything. They are sensitive to high nitrates (anything much above zero), low pH, and low hardness. Keeping them in brackish water fixes these problems, which is why they do best in brackish water. So even if reared in freshwater, if you plonk a molly into water with high nitrates or a low pH/hardness, it'll get sick.>
I will have a shallow sand bed (playsand) and I know it must be  stirred regularly to prevent gas and toxins.  is there any freshwater critters available that can aid in this.
<Anything that burrows. I happen to like Malayan livebearing snails (Melanoides spp.) but these will breed rapidly if you overfeed the tank and do not remove organic waste quickly. Loaches and catfish also clean sand very effectively, and so will most benthic cichlids.>
Finally I would like to have some real plant life.  I thought if  I bought them potted they would thrive better than placing then directly in the sand.
<Potted plants are a bit of a con in some ways. Many plants do not thrive when potted, and need to be unpotted at once. Java ferns and Anubias, for example, shouldn't even be put in the ground at all! What matters is the development of the roots. I'd sooner take a loose plant with a decent root system than a potted one I cannot observe properly.>
What are your recommendations?
<For plants? Depends on your level of experience. Because sand is pushed about a bit by large fishes like clown loaches, you want to choose plants that develop deep root systems quickly, such as Vallisneria. Alternatively, go for Java ferns and Anubias that grow attached to stones/wood, as these don't care about the substrate either way. In fact, sticking with epiphytic plants like Java ferns, Anubias, and Java moss, plus floating plants like hornwort and water sprite, might be the best option. That way you only need 1-2 cm of sand, and there's zero risk of anaerobic decay.>
Thanks ever so much
Lesley
<Cheers, Neale>

I know certain fish can transition from freshwater, brackish, and saltwater.    5/11/07
Hello Crew,
I hope everyone is having a good day.
<So far, so good!>
I know certain fish can transition from freshwater, brackish, and saltwater.
<Indeed. Such fish are called "euryhaline fish" as opposed to "stenohaline fish" that are confined to freshwater or saltwater habitats their entire lives.>
Does their food need to change also?
<A good question. It depends upon on the fish. Certain fish live in one environment for part of their life cycle, and another environment the next part of the life cycle. In many cases, there are dietary changes along with these ecological changes. Atlantic Salmon for example live in freshwater as hatchlings and for the first few months of their life, feeding mostly on insect larvae. They then go to sea for a few years where they feed on crustaceans of various kinds and small fish. Once they reach a certain size they will migrate back into rivers to spawn, but during this spawning run they don't feed much, if at all. They then return to the sea and begin feeding again, in preparation for the spawning run the next year. Other fishes, like scats, simply eat whatever they find wherever they go. These fish move between freshwater and the sea all the time, and what they eat depends only on what they encounter. For the aquarist, one of the striking things about brackish water fish is their greediness. The problem is making sure you don't overfeed them and compromise water quality as a result. Some brackish water fish are predators, and need a primarily meaty diet, but most are omnivores and take a variety of foods including algae, plant matter, frozen foods, and pellets.>
I know the salt levels change, but what other effects does it have on their bodies?
<The change in salinity is the main thing euryhaline fish have to deal. So in freshwater a scat (for example) will be pumping out excess water while conserving salt, but doing the reverse when it is in the sea. Secondary issues will be differences in temperature (the sea varies more slowly than neighbouring rivers so may be cooler or warmer depending on the season), pH, hardness, and other aspects of water chemistry. Salt water also provides more buoyancy than freshwater, and euryhaline fish also need to adjust the amount of gas in the swim bladder to keep the same level of poise when swimming.>
I am particularly interested in mollies.
<The relationship between mollies and brackish water is complex. Mollies are naturally found in freshwater, brackish, and marine environments. But in aquaria they tend to do poorly in freshwater, being very prone to fungus, finrot, and the "shimmies". It is not 100% clear to me that they need brackish water, and some aquarists have suggested that it is the ambient level of nitrates that matter. In brackish water nitrate is less toxic than in freshwater, so the mollies will thrive even if the nitrate levels are quite high. It certainly seems to be the case that people who have luck keeping mollies in freshwater aquaria also keep the nitrates at very low (practically zero) levels. In ordinary community tanks where the nitrates are around 20-100 mg/l, mollies just don't do well.>
Thank you,
     Ann
<Cheers, Neale>

Large Brackish Tank  3/6/07
Dear WetWebMedia Crew,
<Hi Ben, Pufferpunk here, for your brackish water needs.>
I am setting up a 230gal U.K. <276 USG> brackish tank of which will have a lowered level.  
<You need to calculate how much water will be left after lowered.  Let's just guess it's by 1/3rd, which would leave around 150UKG or 180 USG (sorry, I'm from the US & need to think in USG--you'll see why).>
I intend to try and grow mangroves in there and have a raised  section for the archers to squirt at.
<Nice!>
My predicted stocking so far will be: monosx6, scatsx6, archersx5 and some green puffers.  If so, how many <puffers>?  Also, with  green puffers can I add mudskippers or is that a no-go?
<Whoa!!!  You really need to start considering the ADULT sizes of these fish.  Scats grow to the size of a dinner plate & require 50 USG ea.  Monos grow to a foot long & like lots of swimming room.  A school of 6 adults would require a 300+ USG tank.  Archers also grow to a foot & require a minimum tank size of 100 USG each.  As far as the puffers, they require a min tank size of 30 USG each & are extremely nippy fish.  No mudskippers with the puffers.  You need to reconsider you stocking plans.  Your tank may look quite large empty but after filled with the heavy decor these fish all require, as adults, that does not leave them as much room to swim as you think.  ~PP>
Thanks for any help, Ben
<Please Ben, next letter you send, check your capitalization, spelling  & punctuation, before emailing us.  We have to correct all of that, before sending over to our FAQs--very time consuming.>  

From Brackish to Marine  10/11/06
Hello Bob,
<Hi, Pufferpunk here today.>
I am aware of Mollies being able to live in a saltwater environment (reef). I personally have some mollies on my reef tank right now.
I've been reading about brackish water fish and I am really interested in buying some species for my tank. My question then is if I buy a Targetfish (Terapon jarbua) and some Scats from my local fish store, would I be able to acclimate them to a saltwater environment in a short period of time, like I did with the mollies
(8 hours) or I would have to establish a brackish water tank, then increase the salinity as the fish mature along months/years?
<I'd go with your latter idea.  The fish you mention both live in marine conditions as adults.  Beware, the scat grows as large as a dinner plate & neither may be reef safe.  ~PP>
Thanks, JP Marchetti

Keeping Marine Fish in Brackish Water  9/10/06
<Hi, Pufferpunk here>
I was wanting something like an oyster toadfish or scorpionfish for a tank mate in my brackish water tank. I was wondering how hard and rare it would be to find one of these types of fish for such a setting?
<Bad idea to keep a marine species in brackish water salinity.>
I saw an orange toadfish and a scorpionfish of the same color in a LFS (Live Fish Store)
<Actually, LFS usually stands for Local Fish Store.>
but unfortunately they were marine.
<Yup!>
I had told them I had a brackish water tank with an albino moray with a salinity setting at 1.008 and they told me that if I were to raise my level up to about 1.015 I would be able to put one of those fish in my tank as the salinity they were using was at 1.016. This does not sound right to have marine settings at 1.016 when marine settings should be at 1.020 or better.
<You're quite correct.>
So far my eel is thriving in my tank with no problems and he has one very healthy appetite. I would rather risk getting something I can have adapt to what I have than forcing my little guy into those kind of changes. Are there any options to take that I could safely add such a fish to my tank?
Are there any other venomous fishes that are easily gotten that I could look for to add to my brackish tank that you are aware of?  Even a stone fish would be good.
<Yes, according to Neal Monks (see: http://homepage.mac.com/nmonks/aquaria/brackfaqpart1.html?), there are lots of venomous brackish water fish. All of the waspfishes (family Tetrarogidae) are venomous, of which Neovespicular depressifrons (butterfly goby waspfish) and Notesthes robusta (freshwater scorpionfish) are the most commonly traded. Some of the toadfishes are venomous, but the aquarium species Allenbatrachus grunniens is not one of them.
It has been reported that scats are venomous (having toxic spines in the dorsal fin) but other reports deny this. At the least, they should be handled carefully, just in case.
Shark catfish (Ariidae) and eel catfish (Plotosidae) are both venomous. The Colombian shark catfish, Hexanematichthys seemanni, has venomous pectoral and dorsal fin spines. The eel catfish, Plotosus lineatus, normally sold as a marine fish, does well in brackish water. It has a very powerful venom in the pectoral and dorsal fin spines. Good luck finding these fish & be careful!  ~PP>
Thank you

Re: Venomous Fishes in Brackish Waters   9/11/06
<I Just got another note from Neale Monks about keeping a venomous fish with your moray:
"Morays are tricky. There are two basic kinds, fish-eaters and invert-eaters. The fish eaters (e.g. Gymnothorax) have sharp conical teeth and view their tankmates as potential food. Probably exactly the same as with marine morays. Probably only safe tankmates are big, robust beasts, like GSPs or dog-faced puffers, that are able to take care of themselves.
The invert-eaters (e.g. Echidna) have blunt teeth for cracking shells and tend to ignore all but the smallest fish. They seem to work fairly well with monos, scats, etc.
I don't think being venomous or not will make a big difference, because by the time the fish has used its venom, your moray will be dead. So you want something that says "don't touch" to the moray. Puffers will do that with their bright colours and puffing-up, and so will Colombian shark catfish thanks to their "clicking" warning (though these must kept in a group). I fear butterfly-goby waspfish will be too small (they're only 8 cm long) but the Bullrout Notesthes robusta is essentially a sluggish lionfish, and not much molests it.
Otherwise, his best bet is to keep the thing at 1.018 and add a snapper or grouper. Either of these should do fine, as well as being an entertaining pet in its own right."
Just though you'd like to know...  ~PP>

Stocking a Brackish Tank  2/19/06
<Pufferpunk again>
Thanks for the response. Just wondering, that sounds like quite a bit of under-stocking for ~80 gallons. And would the archers be happy with only two
in the tank? They are schooling fish,
<Actually, archerfish adults are solitary fish.>
but as I am mostly into freshwater, the general rule for me is about an inch of fish per gallon. Of course this doesn't really work with bigger fish (would you keep an Oscar in a 12?), but  I would think that because they school, they wouldn't really be needing that  much space over 75 - 80 gallons.
<Well, you just argued against your 1"/gal rule.  This only applies to fish that are thin-bodied & 1-2" long.  You must always consider adult size.>
Also, thanks for clarifying the whole scat thingy. LFS's can be pretty dumb when it comes to fish. Another thing, I have never had problems with bogwood or driftwood lowering the pH in my FW tanks (although it would probably help, as I have mostly fish that prefer a pH of around 6.5, and I don't use pH buffers), would this be different with BW?
<Yes, salt will eat away at the wood.>
If this was true, wouldn't the mangrove swamps of brackish water have an effect on the pH?
<Mangroves are living plants, not dead driftwood.  You are also not taking into consideration that the ocean is getting constant 100% water changes.>
I know that I am probably bugging you with this but I have one more question, totally unrelated to this topic: for marine  tanks, like shark tanks, etc., how would you do large water changes, while keeping the salinity at a constant level? Just a question, I would never think of keeping sharks, however one of my LFS's has a 2000 gallon shark
tank, and I got kind of curious.
<Since I've never kept a 2,000g shark tank, I can only guess that they have a wonderful filtration system & also have huge vats of premixed salt water ready for water changes, along with a drain & fill system.>
Thanks a bunch, your site has been an ongoing source of knowledge for me, and I congratulate you on the good work.
-Eddy
<Thanks & good luck with your project.  ~PP>

Puffers and Gobies and Crabs.. Oh My! - 3/21/2006
I have read very much on the figure eight puffer and the bumblebee goby.
<<That’s always the smart way to start!>>
I have a 20 gallon and a 10 gallon brackish water tank.  They both have java fern and moss and driftwood, pots and rock with coral substrate.
<<All sounds good, except the driftwood.  It will deteriorate in salty water.  What is the current SG in your tanks? Are they cycled? If so, how?>>
Now in the 20 gallon I have two fiddler crabs.  They will be moved to the ten gallon once I get the gobies and figure eight.  My plan is to have one figure eight and five gobies because they both don't get too large, and if need to I can invest in a 40-50 gallon later down the road.
<<It is best to start puffers, and all fish, in their final homes.  You are lucky here though, as you can keep one figure 8 puffer and a few bumblebee gobies in the 20-gallon tank for life.  Is the tank long as opposed to tall?>>
So my questions are, can I keep them together?
<<Yes.>>
Will they be able to live out the rest of their lives?
<<Yes.>>
Another question is, can the fiddler crabs live with the puffer or not?  My guess is no, but they are pretty large compared to a puffer’s mouth.
<<Crabs=puffer food.  Check out www.thepufferforum.com for great articles and info on caring for your puffer.>>
Thanks a lot
Mark
<<Glad to help.  Lisa.>>

Brackish Fish and Crabs - 3/5/2006
I am very interested in having brackish crabs and brackish fish. I have not bought a decent sized tank yet but I want to research types of fish first. I like puffers (who doesn't) but obviously, they cannot go with crabs and the like.
<<Depends on the personality of the puffer, but you are right, as a rule.>>
I have gone on very many internet sites and they sometimes have information on brackish crabs and fish in the same tank, but only ever say top dwelling fish and short finned fish. One of the only examples of brackish fish and crabs was red claw crabs and bumblebee gobies but those are bottom dwelling! If possible, could I be told of all possible combinations of fish and crabs (in brackish conditions) including more than one type of fish to one type of crab?
<<Too many variables, you are going to have to do your own research here.>>
I like red claw crabs but would go for another like fiddlers. I would only aim at having one or two crabs in a tank. To make a more specific analysis of what type of tank I am after I would have to say an around 50-gallon tank with a lot of depth and width (not much of a tall tank person). For internal decoration and design, I would like to have a fake rock cave with its entrance facing the front of the tank so I can still see the crabs inside (maybe logs so they can reach the air not sure yet on what add so they can reach)
<<Do make sure you house the crabs you choose properly, and create a dry land area, if necessary.>>
I would really like to know some names at least of some top dwelling short finned brackish fish.  If there are no good combinations, if possible, could I be sent a table or something in which it shows what brackish fish can go with what?
<<No such table exists, sorry!>>
This is a lot to ask but it would be extremely helpful and I may have asked things against your policies (apologies if I have) but I saw that I had to type properly and I hope I did so adequately.
<<Capitalized I’s would be nice too.>>
I will not expect a question this long to get a full reply instantly and I do hope this is a free service otherwise oops.
<<It is, yes.>>
Yours sincerely and thankfully whether I get the things I asked for or not (very long message to read),
James Briscoe
<<Look into Orange Chromides; they are a beautiful low-end brackish Cichlid.  Good luck with your research. Lisa.>>






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