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FAQs on Betta Systems 6

I just got <sic> 4 betas, Reading, using WWM 5/4/08
Hello,
<Hi>
I just saved 4 beta fish from being flushed and need some help. They were in pretty bad shape when I got them, in small plastic bowls soo dirty you couldn't see through them. I bought 4 - 2 gallon tanks with air filters that have what looks like a rock at the end of a hose. Is this an ok filter system for them?
<Can't discern what this is from your description. Read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/bettasysart.htm
these systems are heated?>
I let the tanks run 48 hours
<... not cycled?>
before moving them into it and put them in small bags with their original water and let them float as well slowly adding water before I put them into the tanks. I followed every step that each site I looked up recommended. They were sick when I got them, which was easy to spot, and I just wanted to see if you could give me any help before I go any further.
<Help yourself... Read>
Fish 1 - Is absolutely beautiful with the largest fins I've ever seen on a beta. Could this mean he is older than the others?
<Possibly>
He just lies listlessly on the bottom of the tank and when he does swim to the top for air he swims straight up to the top but he seems to be struggling. After a minute or so he just sinks back down to the bottom. He shows no visible signs of sickness, and I treated him with a small dose of general cure following the directions, but no change. His water, as all the other tanks, is at 78 degrees. (I am trying to find small heaters for their tanks). Turning on the light helps raise the temp, but I've read the light is bad for sick betas. His ph is 7.0, as all the others are, and any time I do a 25% water change I let the water sit for at least 24 hours.
<Good. I would treat it for sanitizer as well, or store it for a week or more... as is presented on WWM>
I'm not sure about ammonia or nitrate levels, as I just figured that out after reading your website and will go get testers for them. He eats only a little every few days.
<Tropical? If not heated, these fish will languish... >
Fish 2 - Is fun, hungry and playful but shows signs of velvet. I also treated him with general cure, but so far, no change. His tank is the same as all the others. His color is red and I'm not sure what to do.
Fish 3 - I the worst of all. His fins are clamped and he gets scared and jumps when you even go near the tank. He eats a little, but is in bad shape. He has silver spots on his head and belly, and am not sure if he is supposed to be this way or not, as I haven't had him that long. He seems to be very dull in color as well, and hangs close to the top of the tank.
Fish 4 - also shows signs of velvet but seems to be in good health and spirit. He eats well, but his water is cloudier than all the others, although it is cared for the same way. His levels are the same. I can't tell if his one eye is larger than the other but it seems to be. I'm not sure because its hard to get a good look at him, he is pretty active. If he did have pop-eye, could that cause the water to become cloudy?
I know this is alot,
<No such word>
but I just want to give them a good home, and help them get better. Please help if you can.
Thank you so much,
Maureen
<Please read where you're referred. Bob Fenner>

Re: I just got <sic> 4 betas, Reading, using WWM 5/4/08
I'm sorry, my previous email had a typo in it. Here is the corrected version, to save you some editing time.
I saw this email on your daily FAQ's today. I think what Maureen means is that her two gallon tanks came with an air pump, and the "rock at the end of a hose" is an airstone attached to some airline tubing, which means there is no filter. It sounds to me like there is also no heater, but box stores like PetCo and PetSmart sell heaters for those little tanks for between $5 and $10. She can also find affordable HOB or in tank filters there as well. I hope this helps.
Jackie
<Thank you for this input Jackie. BobF>

New Betta tank sprouting hair algae 4/9/08
Hello, I love your site! I have already learned a lot. It was referred to me by a friend who has used your site and has learned a lot as well.
<Ahh!>
That being said I have a question regarding a new Betta tank. I had two Bettas in one gallon aquariums with the light on top. I'd consistently change the water once every week or so and they have flourished very nicely. (I only use reverse osmosis water and I add salt crystals).
<Mmm, better for your Betta... to use about half tap/mains water mixed with the RO... and leave out the salt>
About 2-3 weeks ago I decided to buy a 20 gallon stand alone aquarium and I put a divider in the middle so each of my guys would have 10 gallons!
<Nice!>
This was graduation day not only for my Bettas but for me as well!
<Congrats!>
I filled it up with 20 gals of reverse osmosis water, (yes you should have seen me hauling all of those gallons of water out of Wal-Mart!), I added the salt crystals, put in river rocks and the divider and added my fish. All has been well and my Bettas seen more than happy! But surprisingly, even though these fish were now in so much water I began noticing a quick build up of slime on the top mixed with the bubbles that Bettas like to make. This didn't look too nice so I went to the aquarium store and I bought a small hang-on filter which I attached to one side.
<Good>
Because I have the divider, and I know Bettas don't require a lot of water circulation, I have simply moved the filter back and forth. (this is proving to be a little tedious as the water always looks a little nasty on the top of the side that is not circulating).
<Mmm, perhaps another filter for the other side... or maybe the intake or return to the one can be remoted to the other side... to provide more thorough circulation?>
I'm thinking I may have to start all over as the filter does not seem to be cleaning or circulating the top adequately.
<Well... too early to tell, judge really... there are other means of aiding maintenance, avoiding algal proliferation>
I incorporated some natural plants that I bought from my local aquarium store which may be contributing to the problem.
<Mmm, au contraire... give them time>
My main problem is this: the day before yesterday I noticed that the side of the aquarium which has the most circulation is suddenly sprouting hair algae all over. On the glass, the tops of the river rocks and even the live plants look fuzzy as if they are growing hair algae as well. What's funny is there is no hair algae on the other side of the aquarium with the lesser circulation.
<Interesting. Am wondering if there might be other factor/s at play... perhaps more light... from the sun...>
This morning I also noticed what look like cobweb strings floating in the water or strands of long hair. Not floating on the top but in the body of the water attached at the side and moving around with the movement of the water. In the three years that I've had Bettas and have kept them in 1 gallon aquariums with no moving water I have never seen algae sprout up or had this problem. Because I am new with an actual aquarium I'm lost as to what I should do. What could be the cause of this and what should I do? Help!
Charity
<Let's see... if it were me/mine... I'd consider "going the biological route" a bit further with your set-up/maintenance. Perhaps the addition of some just-sexually reproducing snails... or even Otocinclus... and patience. Do please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwalgcontrol.htm
and the linked files above... up to the point you consider that you understand your options... and write back for further input if I/we may be of additional assistance. Bob Fenner>

Cycling without a filter? FW, Betta... sys. 3/17/08
Dear Crew,
<Hello,>
I bought a male Betta about 4 days ago. I got him a 5 gallon tank, some gravel, plants, Amquel for the water and OmegaOne Betta pellets.
<Fine.>
No filter and no heater.
<Unacceptable.>
The local aquatic shop told me not to change the water for about a month so that it would establish a cycle.
<Not only garbage advice, but also dangerous: the bacteria are not in the water but in the filter, and not changing the water only allows the ammonia to build up to toxic levels.>
Then I should bring in a water sample so they could determine that the ammonia and nitrite levels had spiked and declined. Then after that, I should do a 10% water change weekly to keep up the cycle.
<In a tank without a filter, you need to be doing daily water changes of at least 25%. Seriously. No-one in their right mind keeps fish this way. Get a filter of some sort. Even a plain vanilla sponge filter with an air pump will do the trick for a tank this size. Otherwise, your Betta has a very short lifespan ahead of it.>
He said that Betta are "tough" and that mine would survive the ordeal just fine.
<Horse hooey. Wild Bettas are indeed quite tough animals, but fancy Bettas are not. It's like saying a pampered Persian cat would thrive on the plains of the Serengeti.>
I'm purchasing a 25 watt heater tomorrow and I gave him some aquarium salt today.
<Aquarium salt...? Who told you to add this stuff. It's not a brackish water fish and doesn't need salt. It needs a FILTER and a HEATER. Please, read a book about Bettas and then make sensible purchases. Your retailer has marked you as what we in the trade call a "sucker" and is selling you any old thing. Please don't let him do this! Be an educated shopper!>
The shop guy said that the salt and raising the temp would help my Betta's immune
system and help him get through the cycle.
<Double garbage. Think about this scientifically. Does your medic tell you to eat a box of salt when you're ill? Does he tell you to turn the heating up in your house? No. What your fish needs is a constant temperature (25C/77F) and good quality FRESHWATER conditions.>
He maintained that I do not need a for a 5 gallon tank. Does this all seem right?
<No it does not.>
I don't want to hurt my Betta or cause him to get sick.
<Probably too late. If he's sitting in an unfiltered, unheated bowl he is about as happy as you would be skinny dipping in a garbage dump in Siberia.>
Please advise.
<Read. Books. Now.>
Also, what do you think about using Aquarisol as a parasite preventative?
<Again, think about this using your science education. Does your doctor tell you to consume anti-parasite medications just to stay healthy? No. A healthy diet, clean water, exercise are among the things you do to "prevent" sickness. Likewise for your fish. Keep the water clean by using a filter and running regular water changes. Provide a nice varied diet with a mix of different things through the week, not the same food day-in, day-out. Keep the temperature constant using a heater. All basic stuff. Nothing fancy.>
Sincerely,
Heidi
<Cheers, Neale.>

Re: Cycling without a filter? -03/17/08
Dear Neale,
<Heidi,>
Thank you for your prompt reply. I certainly didn't intend to do the wrong things for my Betta and was hoping that a store that specializes in fish would give me the right advice.
<Wishful thinking, unfortunately.>
Obviously I was mistaken. I will certainly purchase a heater and a sponge filter
promptly and will get some Betta books.
<Don't need "some". Just one will do, and I'd recommend a nice little all-around aquarium book so you have all the facts at your fingertips.>
I do want to be a responsible, informed owner, not a sucker.
<Indeed!>
Should I do a water change now before introducing a heater and a filter?
<Water changes are always good, so if in doubt, do 'em.>
If so, how much?
<25-50%.>
Also, after introducing a filter, how often and how much water should I change?
<25-50%.>
At this point, should I clean the gravel, plants, etc and start fresh? Or will the used gravel help with the nitrogen cycle?
<It'll help somewhat. Give everything a good clean in water taken from the aquarium.>
Do I need to introduce the heat gradually?
<No, the heater should raise the temperature quite slowly, especially if you buy the correct wattage for the tank you have. Don't switch the heater on right away though: they can crack if they start getting hot before the glass has reached ambient water temperature first. Not common, but happens.>
I'm obviously just learning about all this...but in general, it seems like I would
clean the filter weekly, change a percentage of the water weekly, and vacuum the gravel.
<Pretty much. I don't clean the sand/gravel that often, and normal just "suck up" the detritus with the siphon as I'm taking water out. But each to their own on this.>
I know that the temperature of the new water has to be the same as the old, what is the best way to accomplish that if there is a heater in the tank?
<Slightly cool water added to the tank causes no problems, so don't get paranoid. If you like, let the new water reach room temperature before adding to the aquarium (easier if you have two buckets, one for the new water to sit in, and then another to take old water out when you're ready).>
Is there ever a time to completely wash everything, plants, gravel, tank, etc?
<As and when. Most folks find they need to "deep clean" their tanks every year or two, but some are more house-proud, others less so. In theory, water changes and the filter should remove almost all of the dirt between them.>
Finally, is it good to introduce a live plant such as a java fern?
<Makes no odds either way. If you have a light over the tank, then by all means add a plant suitable to the wattage of that light. Otherwise, it's just one more thing to worry about. The fish don't care if plants are real or plastic.>
If so, at what point can I put it in the tank without messing up any cycling?
<Has no effect.>
Until I have read all those books to properly inform me, I'm really wishing that you could just give me a list of what do to, in order, from this point on.
<I'm $250 an hour! But seriously, Bob has a nice article on Betta Basics. Read it!
http://208.112.95.51/FWSubWebIndex/betta_splendens.htm
Any questions after that, get in touch.>
Is that too much to ask or seems like too much hand-holding?
<Holding hands is nice, but knowing better yourself is best! Read and learn.>
I really appreciate your time and advice.
<happy to help.>
Sincerely,
Heidi
<Cheers, Neale.>

Betta's Water Level 3/3/08
Dear WWM,
Greetings; I have a Betta for almost three years now. I have him in a 6.6 bookshelf aquarium tank. I noticed that lately he has been having a hard time reaching the top; so I lowered his water level; he seems to be doing better. I also keep the filter and air pump running at a lower force too. My question is, since Bettas originally lived in rice patties isn't it wise to have the water level as low as possible? Or can you tell me how high should the water be? I am concerned because of his age. Thanks in advance for your help. Jean
<Wild Bettas live in rivers and lakes, albeit among the vegetation, and no aquarium is going to be too deep for them. The problem for aquarists is that fancy Bettas have been bred to have very long fins; while pretty, they make it difficult for them to swim. Lowering the water level reduces the amount of water in the tank, and this makes the aquarium less stable in terms of temperature and water quality. In other words, the less water in the tank, the less healthy the environment. So while the fish might be better able to swim to the top, it's also more likely to get sick from environmental issues. My recommendation would be to keep the water at its normal level, but add some tall or floating plastic plants so that the Betta has somewhere to rest. Cheers, Neale.>

Severe Betta Neglect 2-14-08
Hello Crew,
<Hello, Merritt here!>
I'm ashamed to be writing because I've completely neglected the well-being of my Betta while keeping two healthy reef aquariums.
<At least you are trying to fix the Betta now>
My Betta appeared to have cataracts... now, after a long look, my Betta is also bloated and obviously suffering from constipation.
Epsom salt doses will begin immediately.
<The Epsom salt will help with the Betta being bloated and the constipation>
The Betta will be taken off of "Betta pellets" (temporarily) and fed every-other-day sparingly) with adult brine shrimp.
<Adult brine shrimp are not very nutritious unless you are feeding the adult shrimp a vitamin rich diet. I would only feed the brine shrimp for a short while and then continue with the pellets. You could also mix up the Betta's diet with some Mysid shrimp, mine love them!>
The Betta is in a 3 gallon planted tank, kept at 78+ degrees and gets water changes every couple weeks with RO/DI.
<Sounds great! But change the water more frequently, at least until the Betta gets better>
The Betta can see the pellets at this point but it seems the "cataracts" may hinder that in the future.
<Those "cataracts" will clear up when the other ailments are taken care of>
I've included a few pictures that will hopefully help the WWM crew with diagnosis.
<Please resend the pictures, they were not attached to the email. I would like to see your Betta>
Thank you!
<You're welcome! Please don't forget sending the pictures! Merritt A.>

Preparing for a Betta, sys. 2/4/08
Hey WWM crew!
Thank you so much for all the help you've already given me. I search all over when asking fish questions, and yet I almost always find the answers here.
<Ah, good>
You folks helped a lot with what ended up being a failed attempt at starting a 20 gallon aquarium in a place with really hard water (KH ~180ppm, GH ~200ppm, pH ~8.2). I've moved somewhere new with more moderate water (KH ~80ppm, GH ~25ppm), and I'd like to try using my old 2.5gal quarantine tank for a Betta.
<Okay>
Mostly I just want to check in and see if my setup would be suitable, and if I would have any trouble fighting with the local water to make it work. I've tried measuring the pH of some water I let stand for 24hours and found the low range pH test gave me 7.2, while the high range test gave me 7.8 (I'm planning to get a different pH test kit when I get a chance).
<This will work>
As for the equipment the 2.5gal rectangular tank has a thick layer of Eco-Complete gravel (I'm planning on adding a small plant later if possible). I have a 25W heater (since its often under 50 degrees in my house this time of year).
<Brrrrrr!>
I have yet to test how stable this keeps the temperature.
<Should be fine>
I was also wondering about the use a filter on this tank. I have a Whisper 3i filter rated for 1-3 gallons (powered by bubbling the water through). Would it be best not to use it, use it, or get a different filter?
<This will likely do>
Finally the gravel and the tank were in contact with some fish that had ich about 2 years ago. Should I be concerned?
<No>
I read on your site that if heated to 78F the cysts will break out, and failing to find a host fish in 3 to 4 days will die. Would this be an effective means of ensuring the ich is gone, or should I also medicate the water?

Thanks again!
Mouse,
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Betta... sys. 1/14/08
Hi-
<Hello.>
I have a female Betta fish that is currently living in my heated tank (around 76º) with other fish- would it be possible to transfer it to a bowl
environment that is not heated?
<No. Bettas need filtration and heat, neither of which are present in a bowl.>
It's not doing too well because my other female Betta fish is chasing it around constantly, and I thought that maybe it might help to separate them.
<How big is this tank? It's certainly a fair comment that when kept in tanks 40 litres/10 gallons or smaller Bettas tend to be aggressive towards one another. Adding floating plants may help. Bettas operate on a "line of sight" sort of way, so if they can't see one another, they don't go looking for fights. Because Bettas stay close to the surface, ornaments on the bottom of the tank don't help much, if at all, because the Bettas don't like to be down there all the time. But floating plants (even plastic ones) offer lots more potential.>
I've seen other Betta fish living in bowls
often, but I'm not sure if the change in temperatures would be too much for it in terms of shock.
<I've seen cooked cats (seriously) but this doesn't mean I recommend people eat them. Lots of people keep fish in a bad way, and simply because you see them do it, doesn't mean you should follow suit. Keeping Bettas in bowls is not really fair on them, and doesn't do anything to improve their health or quality of life. At best they die slowly, at worst they die quickly. They are much happier kept in heated, filtered aquaria. Even a small tank (40 litres/10 gallons or less) is viable for male Bettas when kept on their own.>
Thanks for the advice,
Liz
<Cheers, Neale.>

With a very heavy heart... Betta loss, sys. 1/3/08
Hi Everyone,
It is with heavy heart that I write this news. My beautiful, glorious female blue and aqua Betta of 2.5 years drowned in the wee hours this morning. Upon springing Domino from her captive single cup home, she was introduced to a glorious 7 gallon tank, heated, filtered and kept absolutely spotless. A plecostomus on board does his job well and was a fixture of hers for quite a while as she poked around him as if to say 'swim with me'!
My tank has live plants and gravel, one small castle that the Plec. lives in and a big plastic rock that Domino used frequently to freely swim in and out of. As Domino grew she used the larger holes and I didn't think about the smaller ones. To my sadness this morning I could easily tell what had happened. She went in the rock through a large hole and tried to swim out a small hole. Her head and front fins were wedged out so she could not swim forward or backward.
Please heed my warning to avoid sadness in your tank. Do not put decorations with holes into tanks, no matter how safe they "look".
Domino's death was 100% avoidable had I just remembered that fact.
Sincerely,
Elizabeth
<Hello Elizabeth. Your story is very sad, and I do hope others read and act accordingly. I've seen the same thing myself, with a Corydoras getting stuck in a seashell-type ornament. Obligate air-breathing fish like Bettas and Corydoras are at risk from drowning if they get stuck. As you say, such fish are best kept in tanks with very carefully selected ornaments. Cheers, Neale.>

Betta... sys.... reading 12/11/07
I have had my fish misty for almost a year now and recently I've been having some problems. First off I had first put him in a small Betta container and eventually got a 1g tank.

I thought it was bare so I put 2 water snails in the tank and suddenly it became more and more until I had way too many. Then suddenly I found my fish on day with a puff eye so I put him in a large juice pitcher and got rid of the snail thank. It was there that I found he was not really eating. He was still acting happy just not eating anymore. I went to the store to buy a new tank and decided to ask them about it. They gave me Betta fix remedy, so I put the amount in and moments later he was eating again. So that was good and now he seems to be eating normal now but his eye is still puffy. I read online something about blood vessels and red marks on the tail but he has had those since I got him and his eye was fine then. What could it be?
<All the changes, a lack of heat...>
I also notice he had more of a puffier tummy this last month I though noting of it but now it worries me I could just be paranoid but I don’t know what it is can u maybe help me? Misty also has a 5 gallon tank now and he seem to be happy swimming through the pillars in the statue I got him an resting behind the plants at times it this a good tank for him?
<Is it heated? Is it cycled? Have you read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/bettasysart.htm
and the linked files above? What do your water quality tests show you re nitrogenous wastes? Bob Fenner>

Betta and ADF, sys., RO water use, 11/25/2007
Hello All,
Thanks in advance for the advice. Normally I am asking marine questions, but I have a few probably very silly questions about a Betta tank. I have a six week old, cycled, 3 gallon Eclipse tank with a male Betta and one African Dwarf Frog. Parameters are Ammonia/Nitrite: 0, Nitrate: less than 20, pH: 6.0, and nearly zero on DH and GH. The tank has live plants and a one inch gravel bottom. So, the first question: I use RO/DI water instead of using a conditioner on tap water. Is this okay or are my DH and GH readings too low from filtering out too much?
<Always mix some tap water with the RO water; by itself, RO water isn't acceptable for most fish. Aim for between 5-10 degrees dH. For a Betta, there's absolutely no advantage to using RO water anyway, since these fish are very adaptable and provided extremes are avoided couldn't care less about water chemistry. Moderate hardness and neutral pH is probably the ideal.>
I had assumed the RO/DI was better, plus it is convenient since we have the unit set up for the salt water tank, but now I am wondering.
<Very soft water causes problems with acidification and lack of stability.>
Second question: When I come into work in the morning, the tank is usually around 77 degrees F. With the light on during the day, the temperature usually creeps up to about 80 or 81. Is this too much fluctuation over a 24 hour period?
<It's fine for a Betta. Certainly "within the margin of error" for what a wild Betta would be exposed to.>
Should I try and bump the heater up to keep is closer to 80 at night?
<No point if the fish is otherwise fine.>
Of course then it would still fluctuate up to 83 or 84 in the day then. Third question: I have read your FAQs on ADF, but was still unsure about a few things. I have only one, are they social and should be kept in multiples?
<I think they are better termed "sociable" rather than "social". They don't form schools as such, but provided they aren't overcrowded you can keep several in a tank and not have problems. A gallon of water per frog is often recommended, and seems about right.>
I feed about 2 bloodworms (still need to get other "meaty" stuff, frog is new) every 2 to 4 days. Should this be sufficient?
<Depends on the size of the frog, the quality of the bloodworms being used, water temperature, and so on. Provided the belly is gently convex but not bulging, you're fine. I'd be feeding this half a dozen bloodworms every day and seeing how things go from there. If they get portly on this, skip a day or two per week. If they look thin, I'd feed slightly more food, perhaps across two meals per day. There's no hard-and-fast rule to how much to feed any animal; to some extent you need to observe and react accordingly. Provided you don't give the frogs so much they look like bowling balls with legs, then the issue isn't overfeeding per se, but water quality.>
I know it is hard to say without seeing the frog, but does that sound like a reasonable amount of food?
<A bit too little, too me.>
Any other advice is always appreciated! Thanks!
Michele
<Cheers, Neale.>

Deceased Beta, Getting a New one... env. 11/5/07
Hi!
<Hello>
My family recently owned a purple beta named Cuebert (I don't know what kind of beta he is) who lived in a bowl with a plant on it. (Sorry, I don't know what type it is either, but it used to have white flowers.)
<Not terribly important, but I have to say these vases make terrible Betta homes.>
I found him at the top of his bowl floating like he was standing on his back fin.
While I was looking up diseases, I left him to get some peace. When I checked back on him, poor old Cubie was lying on the bottom, not breathing.
<Sorry>
His color was a little gray, but it had been that way for a while.
Was this a sign of some long-term disease? We had him for 3-4 years, so it might have been old age.

He was never extremely active, never made a bubble nest, or jumped. Was there something we were doing wrong?
<Not necessarily, but they do need heated, filtered tanks to really thrive.>
If we were to get another beta, where would we get them?
<Most fish or pet supply shops carry them and most come from the same breeders, so where ever you can find a healthy looking specimen.>
Some are half-dead at the time of purchase! :(
<All too common.>
(One last question, sorry this is so long!) Do beta fish need tops on their "houses"? There are a few I saw hat have none.
<They can jump so it is a good idea.>
Thanks so much!!!
-Laura
<For your next Betta I suggest upgrading his home to a small filtered and heated tank, where he can really thrive. Most people consider those vases a death sentence to the fish, although your did quite well.>
<Chris>

GH/KH concern with new Betta – 10/28/07
Hello :),
I have a 6 gallon tank in my office with a heater (80 degree water), an internal filter stuffed with filter floss (for low current), a few Java Ferns, an Anubias, and some Vals.
<Nice>
I mixed 3/4 R/O water with 1/4 Spring water, and I have had a PH level of 7.2 for a week now. (Without the mixture of water, the PH of my tap water was pretty high at above 8.
<Wow. Liquid rock>
Even the Spring water with the lowest PH reading I found, 7.0, jumped to over 8 in my filtered tank.)
My GH and KH readings are at about 53.7ppm (if I'm understanding the API test kit.)
Some of the articles on the internet seem to indicate that these GH/KH levels are fine, and others would seem to suggest a raising of the GH.
<Mmmm>
I understand that there are products like Kent R/O right and GH Botanica plus from your website. But I know that Bettas like somewhat soft water, and I'd rather not affect my PH if I don't have to, so I'm wondering if I can leave this alone, or if that would be harmful to my new friend over time?
Thank you,
Patricia
P.S. I will be cycling with Bio-Spira, and Thanks for keeping up such a great website!
<Thank you... and I think you are fine here with the calcium and general hardness... for the plants, Betta... I would not change your stated protocol for mixing water. Cheers, Bob Fenner>

Re: GH/KH concern with new Betta – 10/30/2007
Hello,
Thank you so much for your quick response :). It's a scary moment, when you think after weeks of research, you may have actually made things worse for your fish! Thank you for sharing so much of your time with those of us who need it :)
Thanks again :),
Patricia
<Am very pleased to help you, others to improve their experience, the lives to the life in their care. Cheers, Bob Fenner>

Moving Betta Fish to a Bigger Tank/Fin rot 10/21/07
Hello,
<Hello!>
I got a betta fish about a month ago- my college had an event and they gave away bettas for free. The bowl he came in seemed "too small" so I got him a larger (half gallon) bowl, which he's been living in since then. However, reading on your site (I know, I should have done my research *first* but I assumed that since people in my dorm in previous years had bettas in those little bowls that it was okay for them) I got him a 2.5 gallon tank with a heater and filter (it's a charcoal filter type, rather than a sponge...is that okay?) and some largish cloth plants.
<Carbon isn't really useful in this aquarium. You're going to need to change 50% of the water weekly (at least) and doing that will remove the dissolved organic wastes through dilution. Since carbon is used to remove those wastes, the carbon is rendered obsolete. Carbon also removes medications: you cannot use fish medicine in an aquarium with carbon. So, replace the carbon with *biological* filter media instead. Sponge would be ideal, but ceramic hoops or filter wool will work too.>
My question is, from what I've seen you're supposed to cycle the tank before putting the fish in, but that can take up to 6 weeks.
<Yes.>
But it seems like even an uncycled heated and larger tank would be better for Kappa (my betta) than his small cold bowl.
<Correct.>
Is it safe to put him in now, and just change the water often (I'm thinking every 3 days with a 50% change- in his old bowl I was doing 100% changes every 3 days), or is it better to wait for the new tank to cycle?
<Your plan sounds ideal. Move the fish, do water changes regularly, and test the nitrite levels periodically to check things are OK. When fish are exposed to high ammonia and nitrite levels, they are prone to fungus and finrot, so you want to keep them as low as possible, preferably zero.>
Also, I put the plastic plant and the gravel from his old bowl in, with new gravel and a couple larger fabric plants- will that help the tank cycle faster?
<Marginally, if at all.>
(I don't know if there was anything beneficial on them, in order to get the waste off the gravel I'd been swishing it in tap water when I did his water changes, and rinsing off the plant
<Arggghh! Never wash anything under the tap you want bacteria to live on. Always wash biologically active filter media in a bucket or bowl of water taken from the aquarium.>
I did notice some sort of stringy whitish stuff on the plant though, is that good or bad growth?)
<Likely algae (if green) or bacteria (if grey/white). Either way, harmless though perhaps unsightly.>
I don't have any tests for ammonia/nitrates/nitrites yet, but I am getting some as soon as I can find them (the store I went to was out of a lot of stuff).
<Get the simple combination dip-sticks. They're cheap (here around £10 for 25 tests) and you can slice them down the middle to make twice as many tests. Each dip-stick has nitrite, ammonia, nitrate, pH and hardness (at least) making them extremely useful for quickly judging the conditions in the tank.>
I'm especially concerned about leaving Kappa in the old bowl because he's had a chronic case of fin rot since about a week after I got him. At first he lost about a quarter inch of the 'webbing' on his tail, and I got him some aquarium salt and tetracycline gel-food medicine.
<The salt detoxifies nitrite, which is useful when a tank is immature. I'm not convinced Tetracycline food is beneficial, given it is an antibiotic for internal infections, and Finrot is an external infection. I think you need to add a Finrot medication to the water.>
The medicine said to give him 5 drops per serving (2x a day) but I could never get him to eat more than 2 drops (the brand was "aquarium products gel-Tek tetracycline", for what it's worth). It seemed to stop the fin rot, and it started growing back but as soon as the medication period (3 days) ended, within a day the tail had rotted back to about where it was the first time.
<Curing the symptoms -- Finrot -- while not fixing the cause -- poor water quality -- locks you into a cycle where every time you cure the fish, it gets sick again soon after.>
I tried the tetracycline again and this time he'd hardly eat it (I think he just doesn't like it, he loves the Hikari pellets and frozen bloodworms that are his normal food). The rot didn't really get any better, so I stopped for a couple of days then switched to Jungle Fungus buddies (which said they also treat fin rot). That has helped more, but by this time his tail is about half the length it used to be.
<Oh.>
Anyway, the tail has been stable for a couple of days but after I switched Kappa into the 2.5 tank, and he swam around for an hour or so, the webbing that had been regrowing has fallen out again. Will the better conditions help him (he's still on the Jungle medication), or do I need to do something else to get this cleared up?

(I've been trying to find Maracyn (2) since that seems to be highly recommended on your site, but I can't find it in either of the pet stores here.) Other than that he seems healthy and active- he was very curious about everything in the new tank and comes over to me every time I get near. Also, pretty much every time I changed his bowl water, he would make a bubble nest, so he couldn't have been too unhappy...?
<In other words: when water quality improves, he's happy; when water gets bad again, he stops being happy.>
Sorry this is so long, but I wanted to give as much detail as possible.
Thanks for your time,
--Kyra
<Do water tests, replace carbon with true biological filter media, ensure ammonia and nitrite settle down to zero levels. Don't overfeed, and do regular water changes. Keep treating the finrot. Once the water is good, you'll see the finrot won't come back. Do read the articles here at WWM about Bettas. Cheers, Neale.>

Re: Moving Betta Fish to a Bigger Tank/Fin rot 10/22/07
Dear Neale,
Thanks so much for your help and the quick response. I'll be looking for a new filter and ammonia/nitrite/nitrate tests for Kappa's tank. You guys run an amazing site, and I'm sure I'll be referencing it a lot in the future.
Thanks again,
--Kyra
<Kyra, thanks for the kind words, which I'll be sure and pass on to the Crew. Good luck with your Betta! Neale>

My new Betta, sys. 10/19/07
Hi there, I've read through all of your information on Betta, but I want to be sure that I'm providing my little Squishy with the best. I've only had my little guy for three days, and he looks great. His colors look more vibrant than they did when I bought him, he eats well, (maybe too well, after reading some material I've found that I feed him too often, two times a day, 2 pellets, 2 freeze dried bloodworms, but I'll cut down now) he's building bubble nests
<A good sign>
(at first I was worried that there was something wrong with the water, research proved me wrong) swims around happily, and reacts when I interact with him. Anyways, I was wondering how often I should change his water, there are sooo many different opinions as to how often, and I want to make sure I do it right. I was also wondering if he is in too small a container. The container is described as a "large" betta keeper. But all these posts make me feel as though I'm neglecting my Squishy. Thank you, Caryn
<Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/bettasysart.htm
and the linked files above... Best to do such partial change-outs weekly, with pre-stored water... Bob Fenner>

2 questions concerning my betta... sys., comp. 10/1/07
Hi there,
I recently upgraded my Betta's tank size to a 5 1/2 gallon tank from a 1/2 tank. Also I have added two albino Cory catfish as companions.
<Nice!>
My 1st question is about the filter, I'm not sure if it's good for him or needed, or if he likes it. Since most of the time he's been really happy with out one in his small tank before this one. What should I do about the filtration?
<Perhaps a small hang on or in-tank power filter type...>
My 2nd questions is about his companions. I'm starting to think giving him companions in the 1st place was a bad idea. I don't know if he likes them, he seems to avoid them and doesn't like them getting close to him. He doesn't fight them or anything
he just swims away quickly. Should I remove them from the tank and let him have his peace again in the tank, or just wait it out till he gets to know them better?
Thank you for your time.
Sincerely,
Joe

Lethargic Betta, Env. 9/28/07
Could you please advise me regarding my Siamese fighting fish. I have had him for two weeks and have been looking after his water as advised by the pet shop owner. He seems ok - his fins are fine and he swims around and is eating one pellet twice a day. He comes to the top when he hears my voice. Often though I find him sitting at the bottom of the bowl. I thought he was sleeping or resting, but am wondering if he is ill. There are no other symptoms.
Thank you for any help you can give.
Pam
<Is this tank heated? If not he is probably cold, and being a cold blooded animal will be less active.>
<Chris>

New Betta-Kudos to Marineland 9/16/07
Dear WWW Crew,
<<Hello, Mitzi. Tom here this afternoon.>>
I seem to be sharing experiences with you all lately and this one seems important.
<<All gets passed along, Mitzi, so what do you have for us?>>
Every time I pass the pet aisle at Wal Mart I'm heartsick at the pretty little Bettas floating listless in their 5 oz plastic cups.
<<One of many reasons why I pass Wal-Mart entirely, Mitzi, but let’s not get started on that one. ;) >>
There's 4 teeny slits in the tight fitting lid for air and that's it. I think of my happy fish at home with lots of room, fresh water and good care and feel so sorry for those Bettas. It makes me angry at our society that is allowing it to continue.
<<In this instance, society “votes” with its dollars, Mitzi. Stores don’t stay in business unless they’re patronized and Wal-Mart doesn’t lack for people willing to spend their money there. Your indignation, however, is completely understandable and I won’t detract from that in the least.>>
I've been reading your sight so much the past month or 2 and "Betta" kept crossing my line of vision in different FAQ's. I was engrossed
learning about these fishes I'd never really known about before. I never knew they could actually live happily in less than a 10 gal.
<<A ten-gallon tank is about optimum for Bettas but they’ll do well in somewhat smaller environments.>>
At Wal Mart this morning I couldn't take it anymore and bought a beautiful blue & purple Betta male. I found a Marineland 5 gallon hex aquarium that I was really impressed with. I still feel badly that it's too small but it beats the heck out of what he was in at the store.
<<Nothing wrong with a five-gallon tank for Bettas, Mitzi.>>
I want to let people know what a nice thing Marineland has done with this little 5 gal tank. The entire filter setup is in the hood along with the light. It has a charcoal filter and even a tiny little bio-wheel, for only $30.00! I thought it was a wonderful idea to have sitting next to all these Betta cups. I've always loved Marineland products, the Emperor & Penguin series bio-wheels are what I use exclusively. I feel like this company really has a handle on fish and this sealed the deal as far as my respect for them.
<<Marineland’s a fine company and, to give the Devil his due, it sounds as though Wal-Mart may have lifted itself out of the dirt by marketing these tanks, as well.>>
I also got a "2-15 gallon" Tetra submersible heater (for $6.00) that has kept his temperature right at 80 degrees all day. The ph of the water in the cup was only 6 and mine is about 8 so acclimation took 4 hours but he's doing absolutely wonderful. He's ate and already comes up to the front to see us. I also used gravel & filter media from my cycled tanks to kick start bacteria, by the way.
<<Sounds like you’ve done a wonderful job with your new pet, Mitzi!>>
The moral of the story is that any one of your readers can "rescue one of those Bettas" for under $40.00 with tax. About the price of a tank of gas. It won't save them all and it won't solve the problem in the big picture, but it will give that *one* fish a happy life. It
made me feel a lot better than just walking by and feeling sick for doing nothing.
<<I’m happy for you in that and commend you for caring enough to act on your feelings.>>
I'd have never garnered the interest in Bettas if not for the WWM website and crew. I've read all of Bob's Betta articles. I think
"Robert" would be a good name for this little fish. Lol
<><An honour. RMF>
Sincerely,
Mitzi
PS I'm running out of room for fish tanks. But I was thinking.....if I put the couch & TV on the front porch and made my family sit out there I'd have LOTS more room for fish inside.
<<I think my wife had exactly the same idea a while back when she suggested moving all of my stuff out to the front yard. I know she's wanted a large, saltwater tank but I didn't know she wanted one THAT big. Do you think I missed something? :) Thanks for sharing your experience with us, Mitzi. I hope others will follow your thoughtful lead. My best to you. Tom>>

Re: New Betta-Kudos to Marineland Pt 2 – 09/19/07
As a PS I went out yesterday and bought 3 more of these little 5 g Marineland Betta tanks & heaters and had a blast setting them up & decorating yesterday. I had to go to 2 Wal-Mart's because I bought out the 1st one. They take up so little space and it's only a 20 oz cup of water to do a water change! (I do the "daily small water changes" on my tanks). It doesn't get any easier than that. I don't understand why only Bettas are sold in those awful little cups and kept in tiny bowls, they're not the only kind of air breathing fish yet the others aren't housed in such an inhumane way.
<The cups aren't as bad as the tiny little sealed pouches some companies ship them in. But in any case, they're shipped like this because 1) they can be and 2) male Bettas can't be mixed in the same bag. Most freshwater fish are shipped in big bags with many of the same kind in one bag. You can't do that with male Bettas. Though, I don't know why the female betas are shipped in cups/pouches.>
I suppose because of their aggressive nature with other fish.
<It's a common misconception that Bettas are as aggressive with other fish as they are with each other. You can actually put a male Betta in a community tank. Problems could arrive if it's a small tank with passive surface dwelling fish, but otherwise they tend to mind their own business.>
I know patronizing Wal-Mart keeps them in business, I wrestled with that. But PetSmart & PetCo & many other places sell them that way, too.
<IMO, Wal-Mart should not be selling fish. I went in there once to find a large goldfish floating dead in a tank with several other fish. There were a couple of girls (employees) standing around looking at and giggling, each saying "there's no way I'm touching that." I grabbed a paper towel from behind them, lifted up the barrier and pulled the fish out and threw it away. I looked at them and explained that you can't leave a dead fish in a small tank like that or else everything will die. One of them just shrugged, thanked me and said they just weren't "that brave." Give me a break!! Ugh. But anyway, there are so many other reasons not to shop at Wal-Mart, but if you want that rant you'll have to email me personally. :)>
I've got almost every kind of pet/livestock (over 50 individual critters total if you want numbers-sigh) and I literally HAVE to patronize these places in order to buy food & supplies for them.
So that's 4 Bettas that will get a good home. The only problem I'm running into is not enough plugs ins but my husband's going to wire some into the walls this week :-)
These places are going to sell these fish whether I buy mine or not, that's just a fact of life.
<Umm... if we're still talking about Wal-Mart, then you might be wrong. Wal-Mart is very careful to protect its profits. If people didn't buy live fish there, it would start losing money on maintenance costs. They'll stop selling live fish as soon as it stops being profitable.>
All I can do is all I can do. And it *does matter to these 4 fish. And it matters to the other fish because of all the people I've talked to about it in my travels in gathering up things to decorate tanks with.
I ADORE these little fish, they're so beautiful. And compared to all the other critters and bigger tanks I've got they're soooo easy to take care of properly. I could do 10 Betta tanks with my hands tied around my back and drink my coffee at the same time before I even start in on the sheep & llama lol
Don't feel you have to print this, I just wanted to follow-up. "Robert" the Betta is doing wonderful, I'd swear his ragged fins are already healing, he swims around constantly. Judging by the way my Oscar is eye-balling him I suspect he thinks it's his lunch.
Thank you for this wonderful sight. If not for this website I'd have never became interested in these little Bettas or known how to care for them.
<glad you found us>
Tom, you'd better get your wife that SW tank in a big hurry or you might find yourself sleeping in a tent in the back yard lol
<Haha... I'll tell Tom you said that.>
Mitzi
<Best,
Sara M.>

My beta is sad! RMF as well... Reading 9/13/07
I just got my crown tail beta 2 days ago. I have a little bow (it's less than a gallon),
<... heated, filtered?>
but is bigger than the tiny cup that I purchased it with.
The first couple of hours my beta was so happy, he was swimming around, checking every rock, every plant.
<Cycled?>
Then I gave him 3 pellets (I bought the same food that they where feeding the betas in the pets store) and after a couple of hours I saw him staying on the top, not moving, does not react at all. Just takes a little breath and stays. On the morning I went to check on him, he was still standing up there. I wanted to make him happy and what is better than breakfast. I was thinking if he eats, means he is ok. I gave him another 4 pallets. Now I know, that was mistake, I gave him too much food.
My poor little guy? is it possible to die? How can I make it better?
<Read...>
I also use bottled spring water, is that ok?
<Mmm, not likely, no... Water chemistry?>
Do I need to test the water?
<Yes>
How often do I need to change it since the bow is so small?
Please help, I just want him to be ok.
Daniela
<Read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/bettasysart.htm
and the linked files above.
Bob Fenner>

New Betta Owner Needs Help With Tank Setup - 9/3/07
Dear WWM Crew,
I have been reading over the material on the site and am a bit overwhelmed by all the conflicting information I have read on Betta habitats.
<Oh dear.>
I went and purchased a male and a female Betta at a local Petsmart, and also two one gallon tanks with undergravel filters, airstones, nd hoods with small lights.
<They tend to be kept apart -- the males do not "play nice" with females in small aquaria. In the wild, the females enter and leave the male's territory at their leisure. In the aquarium, they don't have this option. Result: spousal abuse, dead female.>
I have been changing tanks with Poland Spring water, as our town water had coliform contamination last year, and as it is still being chemically treated with stuff I don't think is safe, I neither use it, nor will I give it my cat, or the fish.
<Er, probably overkill. A mature aquarium will be filled with all sorts of bacteria, but the "good" bacteria predominate, cleaning the water remarkably effectively. Assuming you treat your water with a decent dechlorinator (one that removes chlorine AND chloramine) the water should be perfectly safe for fish. Coliform bacteria aren't much of a risk to humans in good health (i.e., who aren't immunocompromised). Every time you wipe your backside after defecating, you're exposed to them. So I wouldn't worry too much. Compared to the measurable dangers like, say, getting in a motor car or having a fat/calorie-rich diet, the risk of contracting a life threatening sickness from coliform bacteria is very small. And certainly NOT a threat to your fish!>
My problem is that I have been changing the tanks every 7 days, removing 1/3 water, saving 2/3, and removing the fish with tank water to container, then rinsing undergravel plate in hot water, rinsing gravel, then tank (acrylic small 1 gallon) and then putting all back together, gravel plate, airstone, then gravel and filling with combo of old water and 1/3 new with small amount of conditioning salt added by diluting it in 1 cup new water then adding it to empty tank, then fish.
<Who told you to do all this stuff? Had they ever kept a live fish in their entire lives? OK, in a tank with an undergravel filter (which is what you seem to have here) you should NEVER, EVER clean the gravel with hot water. The gravel is where the bacteria live, and you want them to be HAPPY. What you're doing is killing them. Very bad. So, leave them alone! Change 50% of the water weekly, but otherwise leave the tank alone. Once in a while stir the gravel with a stick, and siphon out any detritus if you want. But never let the gravel get dry or washed in anything other than aquarium water. EVER. And there's no need to use salt. The ONLY thing you should be adding to the water is dechlorinator. Salt doesn't remove chlorine, kill bacteria, or do any of the myriad things people think it does. It's just salt.>
Now I read that I need heaters and bio-filters in big tanks!
<Yes, you need a heater, unless your home is maintained at a constant 25 C. These are TROPICAL fish, and when kept at less than 25 C, they die. Period.>
Help!!! I am in tiny apartment with cat and have no room for bigger tanks as yet and small budget-have disabled family member who lives with me whose monthly meds run over $1200 per month, what can I do to make these little guys lives better?
<Well, you could save some money by not using mineral water, for a start... A 5-10 gallon tank surely wouldn't take up much more space than a 1 gallon tank, and would be orders of magnitude easier to keep (not to mention a nicer home for your fish).>
They are growing bigger and are active, but don't want to stress them by cold temps, warm in day but down to 68-70 at night and too chilly now that fall is here.
<Too cold.>
By the way, people at petshop said to just keep them in a bowl, that they survive in mud puddles, so temp and ph, etc, is no issue.
<Garbage. Bettas do not live in mud puddles. How would a fish get into one, and why would it want to be in one? Bettas live in ditches, streams, lakes, and so on. Usually among vegetation. Yes, they breathe air, but this isn't because they live in mud but because the water they live in gets very warm, and consequently contains less oxygen than otherwise. It's a back-up system for them, helping them to stay active in conditions other fish find stressful.>
I test pH every 3 days is 6.8-7.0, but will get nitrate, ammonia, nitrite, kit now also.
<You don't *need* all of these. The "big three" in my opinion are nitrite, pH, and general hardness (dH, rather than carbonate hardness, KH). And a thermometer, of course. Your water board may tell you what the hardness and pH of your water supply is, in which case you can "wing it" and rely on the 50% water changes to prevent any untoward pH changes in the aquarium. Bettas will adapt to a wide range of water chemistry values, but like all fish, they don't like sudden changes. So really, if you do that, then the nitrite kit is the only one you need. It's the cat's Pyjamas for tracking water quality, and more useful than either ammonia or nitrate for a variety of reasons.>
Any ideas on tanks/heaters on very tight budget?
Thanks, CJ
<Well, I've told you what you need (and need to do). But a fish is just like any other animal -- at some point, expense is unavoidable. Hope this helps, Neale>

Re: New Betta Owner Needs Help With Tank Setup - 9/3/07
Hi WWM Crew,
<Hello CJ,>
Thanks for the swift reply. No, I don't have them in the same tank, 2 separate 1-1/2 gallon tanks w/undergravel filters & airstones, nd thermometers on the tanks the ones that are stick-on strips with temp. range of 64-86. They are in warm part of house, no windows, drafts, nearby but house is cooler in fall so will have to get heaters right away.
<Agreed; while they tolerate a certain amount of temperature variation, the night-time temperature shouldn't drop below much below 22C. In the wild, while air temperature may drop well below that, the water temperature won't, because water is thermally very stable (it tends to lose/gain heat very slowly). The tiny conditions in an aquarium don't replicate this, so fish tanks lose/gain heat much more slowly than anything most fish are adapted to. This is why we need aquarium heaters. By all means switch it down to a low setting in summer, and let your fish enjoy a natural variation in temperature (I do this every summer) but otherwise aim for variation no greater than 22-26C or thereabouts.>
I wasn't concerned about the coliform, it was over a year ago, but the state mandated the town over chlorinate and add other chemicals to our town water, and it smells like a Clorox bottle when you turn on the tap.
<It's probably fine. Add a good dechlorinator that removes chloramine as well as chlorine. If in doubt, telephone your water board or check their web site. Your water can't be any less "natural" than the water offered in London (famously been through 7 people on average before you drink it!) and fish do fine here.>
Also they had a contamination incident with paint thinner, so given their track record on water safety, we buy bottled for the past few years. I am concerned about giving
it to fish, pets or humans so we buy bottled by the case.
<Well, this is your choice. But if you're asking me, "is the water safe for my fish", the answer is almost certainly yes, provided you treat with a decent dechlorinator. Money saved here (on something at best optional rather than vital) could be spent on essential things like heaters, filters, bigger tanks, etc in due course.>
As far as rinsing the gravel filter plate and gravel, bad info from pet store folks.

I didn't mean to infer that Bettas could live well in mud puddles, just trying to let folks know the attitude the folks at the pet store have about the creatures they are selling to the public.
<Indeed.>
I had not seen all the info on the site about heated fully cycled tanks before I bought these two, so we will read up and if we can we will get bigger, heated, tanks and let them cycle prior to introducing our fish to them.
<Very good.>
Thank your for your quick reply, CJ
<No problem. Enjoy your fishkeeping. Cheers, Neale>

Strange Fins, Betta, env. dis. 8/30/07
Hello, and thanks ahead for your website!
<Welcome>
I'm the new owner of a male LPS (local pet store) betta. After only about a week-and-a-half, I'm seeing something I haven't found on any of your FAQs. Tai's tail and fins seem to have partially rolled up and come to a point, and the tail has also twisted a bit. There appears to be no discoloration, no tears or scalloping in his fins, his color is good and unchanged as is his appetite. I'm probably watching him 'way too close, because he seems a tiny bit less active. He usually knows when I'm watching and becomes frisky to get attention. Tai is in a 2 and ½ gallon tank with silk plants, smooth bottom gravel and a hidey-hole toy.
<Is this world heated, filtered?>
The temperature is a regular 78 degrees,
<How?>
ph is good,
<What?>
I use Amquel + and Novaqua, and a small amount of salt

in the water before he gets it. There's no filter
<Trouble>
in the tank but I've been doing 20-50 percent water changes every other day, and a complete water change once a week.
<Not a good practice>
Of course, we're only talking about less than 2 weeks! I don't want to use the wrong medication, and can't tell if it's bacterial, fungal, or nothing at all. Do you have any ideas?
<All sorts>
Thanks again for any help or reassurance you can give!
Beth Rogers
<Read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/bettasysart.htm
and the linked files above.
The environment... likely metabolite poisoning... Bob Fenner>

Re: Strange Fins, Betta – 08/31/07
Thanks for the reply - I stay confused I guess! I'd thought frequent partial water changes were a good thing.
<Mmm, not this much nor this frequently... Please read where you were referred to>
The temperature is regulated at 78 degrees via a small heater on a timer and a thermometer.
<Good>
The ph is good (I used a test kit) at 7.0 to 7.2,
<Good>
and the ammonia is low (another test kit).
<Should be zero... undetectable. Any present is harmful>
So the problem must be the water changing. Will a filterless tank cycle?
<Yes...>
What is metabolite poisoning?
<Mmm, biological process accumulation that is deleterious to the organisms health>
Thanks again! -Beth
<Welcome! BobF>

Tiny white bugs/crustaceans, FW... 8/29/07
Hi. Hope you can help me with this one!
<Will try.>
I have a 5 gallon freshwater aquarium with a betta fish in it. A few months ago I noticed a few things:
1) tiny white bugs, barely visible to the naked eye, that swim/jump through the water and sometimes scoot along the surface of the glass
<Those are very small insects or insect-like animals. Thrips, collembolans, mites, and so on. Harmless.>
2) tiny things that stick to the glass and plants. They remind me of barnacles more than anything else. They are scale-like, flat, transparent beige in color, and have a small red-orange colored center. They start out as specks on the glass and progressively grow bigger, to about the size of a pin-head. They have a hard outer "shell"....I know because I've been killing them off as best I can ("crunch"), but they continue to multiply.
<Sounds like snails of some sort. Basically harmless.>
3) tiny red-orange bugs that jump/scoot on the surface of the water, which remind me of mites or water spiders or chiggers.
<Again, some sort of harmless arthropod. Quite possible red mites.>
I have no idea what any of these are, and my internet research thus far has not helped. I'm wondering it is it possibly a single organism that I am witnessing at different points in it's life growth cycle??
<No, not really. Aquaria become ecosystems of a sort, and animals in house attracted to warm, damp places congregate on them. Hence you find the same sorts of things on the aquarium as you'll find in the bathroom.>
A few weeks ago I did a major overhaul of my tank. I boiled the gravel, driftwood, and filtration components. I threw away all the plants. I replaced all but about 10% of the water. Two weeks later, there are tons more of the white bugs, and I'm seeing more and more of the "scale" looking things on the glass everyday.
<You can't get rid of them. Remove them, and more will move in from your house. I'm guessing your tank doesn't have a proper filter; these little arthropods don't tend to be such a pest where the surface of the water is agitated by a filter. In "bowl" type situations, the still water surface is a perfect habitat for them. Furthermore, in betta bowls the water tends to have lots of nitrate and organic material in it because the volume is so small, and this encourages the growth of algae and molds. It is these that the little arthropods are feeding on. In bigger tanks with proper filtration, there's less of this stuff, and so the arthropods are less of a big deal.>
These critters are such an EYE-SORE and NUISANCE in my Betta's home. Can you please help me diagnose this infestation and how I can get rid of them?
<You can't. Learn to love them.>
With gratitude,
Shawna B.
<Hope this helps, Neale>

Re: tiny white bugs/crustaceans 8/29/07
Thanks for your response about the critters in my tank. I believe a partial solution would be running the filter more often.....I only currently run it a few hours a day.
<Arghhh! Why are you running the filter only a few hours per day? That's not how you use a filter, and all you're doing is killing off the "good" bacteria every time you switch the power off. A filter should run 24/7 -- end of story.>
Also, I've heard to get rid of snails you can add copper to the water? They are the major eye-sore of the tank. Can you confirm this and suggest any products that accomplish that?
<You heard wrong. Copper is toxic to crustaceans (which you don't have) and to a lesser extent to fish. Snails are largely indifferent to it, and you'll kill the fish long before the snails get bothered by it. Learn to live with them. Remove them by hand if you want. Otherwise just let them be. Snails only increase their numbers in "dirty" tanks. Snails eat leftover food and algae. If there's a surplus of leftover food especially they will turn that into more snails. In a clean tank, they don't have enough food to breed all that quickly. Show me a person with a "snail problem" and I'll show you a person who overfeeds their fishes or doesn't clean their aquaria properly. It's as simple as that: basic laws of physics; without the extra energy from surplus food, the snails could reproduce as quickly. So, take the snails for what they are -- a symptom of another problem. Act accordingly, and you'll find the snail population will gradually decline to the point where you'll view them as harmless additions to your aquarium.>
Thanks again!!
<No problems, Neale.>

Re: tiny white bugs/crustaceans 8/30/07
Hi Neale ~~~
<Shawna,>
Again, I really appreciate your help and advice on the unwanted critters I have. However, I am not sure that a "dirty tank due to overfeeding" is the problem. I have a single betta in a 5 gallon tank, who gets about 4 pellets of betta food twice a day, and eats it all within about a minute. I generally clean the tank every 4 weeks.
<A properly maintained tank shouldn't need "cleaning" this often. Betta bowls are different I admit, but really, it's the water that needs replacing regularly not the tank decorations. Now, as for the role of food, uneaten or otherwise: snails simply cannot multiply in a tank with no food added. Try it yourself some time. Put a few pond snails in a bowl and don't add any food. See how quickly they multiply. They won't. Except maybe for algae, there's nothing for them to eat, and they starve. Basic biology. The reason snails prosper in fish tanks is that the food (and to some degree fish faeces) provides them with high-protein fodder. They multiply at a rate directly proportional to the amount of food available. It really is that simple. Now, it doesn't sound like you're overfeeding your fish, I admit, so perhaps the food source is something else. Decaying plants perhaps?>
I am really stumped....because as I mentioned about 2 weeks ago, I scoured the tank and boiled everything in it (with the exception of the fish of course!) To see such a dramatic re-appearance of the crusty-scale-like critters in such a short period of time.....in a clean tank....with no plants....well, I just don't get it. Believe me, I have seen small aquarium snails before, and what I have looks different. I wouldn't mind a few snails, but these guys are prolific in numbers....still multiplying....and make the tank look sick and infested.
<Need photo. There are very few other shelled invertebrates that live in freshwater. Ostracods perhaps, but they're very distinctive and don't "turn up" announced. Snails are really the only common shelled stowaways in freshwater tanks. Nematodes and flatworms can be a pest, but they're wormy, not snail-like.>
I had no idea I needed to run the filter all day, and I can see now how that could create a stagnant environment for unwanted critters and such. I was not doing so because I thought my betta liked to have calm waters most of the time. I will change that habit immediately. But the snail-scale like things have got to go!!
<OK.>
I plan to clean and scour and boil everything in the tank again, in hopes that I can further reduce or eliminate the problem. If you have any additional thoughts, I would greatly appreciate your feedback.
<Waste of time. Assuming these "critters" got in by themselves and are prospering under whatever conditions you have, my assumption would be if you clean the tank, they'll be back to full strength in a month. So I'd tend to reflect more on filtration, water changes, removal of potential food (dead plants for example) and so on.>
Thanks so much.
Shawna
<Cheers, Neale>

Vitamin and Mineral Pyramid for Betta 8/20/07
Hi WWM Crew,
<Jean, Jean, Bettas are blue... well, some of them.>
Recently, I purchased from a Pet store a vitamin and mineral pyramid made by Aquarium Pharmaceuticals, Inc. I wanted to cut the pyramid in half and put half of it into my 6.6 gallon tank, which is occupied by a Betta and the other half in a 5 1/2 gallon tank which is occupied by three Zebra Danios.
My question is: is this vitamin and mineral pyramid safe to use on a Betta and three Danios? Please give advise. Thanks in advance for your continued help. Jean.
<Mmm, likely so... but also likely unnecessary. Is the water you use mineral deficient? I'd just do regular water changes... Bob Fenner>

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