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FAQs on Mastacembelid, Spiny Eel
Compatibility Related Articles:
Spiny Eels, The
truth about spiny eels; A
closer look at these popular but problematic oddballs
by Neale Monks,
Husbandry of the Barred
Spiny Eel,
Macrognathus panacalus
by Marco Lichtenberger,
Related FAQs: Spiny Eels,
Spiny
Eel Identification, Spiny Eel Behavior,
Spiny Eel Selection,
Spiny Eel Systems,
Spiny Eel Feeding,
Spiny Eel Disease,
Spiny Eel Reproduction, |
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Mastacembelus erythrotaenia question, comp.
9/21/09
I plan to put a Fire eel (Mastacembelus erythrotaenia), presumably 5-8
in.
(I have not yet purchased any of these fish), into a 125 gallon (long)
aquarium along with a small Black ghost knife fish (Apteronotus
albifrons), a Leopard Ctenopoma *(*Ctenopoma acutirostre), a Convict
Cichlid (Archocentrus nigrofasciatus) (that already resides in the
tank),
<Potential problem; rather aggressive species, out of all proportion for
its size. Competition for hiding places will be stiff.>
a Rhino Pleco (Pterygoplichthys scrophus) (who already resides in the
tank also) and six Silver dollars (Metynnis argenteus). What I am
wondering is if I can keep two Angelicus Botias that already live in the
tank with the Fire eel.
<Botia kubotai is boisterous and somewhat gregarious, and in groups of
5+ tends to settle down and mostly fights amongst itself. Two specimens
are less predictable. Your main problems are feeding and competition for
hiding places. On the feeding count, both Mastacembelus erythrotaenia
and Apteronotus albifrons are very slow feeders, and unless hand-tamed,
you're going to have problems making sure they have enough to eat.
Ctenopoma acutirostre is also rather shy, and while ideal for use
alongside the Knifefish and the Spiny Eel, combining it with aggressive
cichlids and boisterous loaches is questionable.>
I know that you have said previously that they can not be kept together,
but I have ample driftwood and plastic foliage (for the silver dollars),
and more than enough space for territories, considering the only
territorial fish are the Ctenopoma, the Convict, the Black Ghost Knife
and the fire eel.
<Territories won't make or break this tank; feeding will.>
I am also wondering if I could use very fine substrate (about the size
of Kosher salt on a pretzel) for the eel. I can't use sand due to my
syphon, which will clog.
<Keep the sand clean by stirring it, and then siphoning up the silt that
appears.>
My last question: Can I use dried brine shrimp to feed it?
<Not a chance. Brine shrimp contain virtually no nutrition, and Spiny
Eels will barely recognise live ones as food, let alone doubly useless
freeze-dried brine shrimps. Spiny Eels, as well as Black Ghost
Knifefish,
are strictly live food fish initially, and subsequently wet-frozen
bloodworms, lancefish, prawns, etc. If you can't offer these foods,
don't keep them.>
it will be receiving chopped earth worms a few times a month, along with
feeder fish occasionally.
<Don't use feeder fish, ever. Your research has presumably informed you
that Mastacembelus erythrotaenia is super-sensitive to bacterial
infections. Adding something as disease-ridden as a feeder fish to a
Spiny
Eel tank is just plain suicidal.>
Do you think, under these conditions, it will thrive?
<Probably not.>
My P.h. is around 7.5-8.0.
<Would be less worried about pH and more focused on water quality when
keeping these fish. Apteronotus albifrons for example needs
fast-flowing, not too warm water with lots of oxygen. Even relatively
low levels of nitrate, and any kind of nitrite/ammonia, will cause
stress. It's a fish that lives in shallow, splashing water across sandy
substrates. Bear that in mind, and plan your tank accordingly.
Conversely, Ctenopoma are
swamp-dwellers, so you need to create areas with still water *at the
surface* where the Ctenopoma can lurk; bunches of floating plants, real
or plastic, work nicely.>
Thanks! -Jack
<Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Mastacembelus erythrotaenia question 9/21/09
Thank you for all of the great advice! I plan to buy my fish in about a
week, and plan on giving away the Convict cichlid.
<Probably best.>
The Angelicus Botias will be moving to another tank.
<Cool.>
I *will* be using sand for them, thanks to your tip on syphoning.
<Turkey basters are also very good for "spot cleaning" sand when you
don't want to drag out the siphon.>
I'll use many floating plastic plants (second hand from a Gourami) for
the Ctenopoma. I've heard before that you can use a turkey baster to get
food down to eels. Is this true?
<Can work. I use long forceps to feed fussy fish, and tame them. Spiny
Eels are very intelligent, and should become tame quite soon. They love
earthworms more than anything else on Earth!>
I plan on trying it, so the silver dollars don't gobble it up before the
fire eel has a chance.
<Good plan. Since Spiny Eels are nocturnal, leave out frozen bloodworms
and other such foods during the night, and if they're the only predators
in the tank, they should consume. Spiny Eels and Black Ghost Knives
should compete at about the same level, so I'd expect them to coexist.>
And if all else fails, could I use a divider to separate the Knife fish
and Ctenopoma from the eel to feed them?
<Hassle. Get everyone tame, and hand feed. Ctenopoma will take floating
blocks of bloodworms happily during the day, so they're easy. Tame the
Spiny Eel, and then feed the Apteronotus partly at night, and partly
with foods it can gobble up quickly during the day.>
My tank gets a weekly %50-60 water change, so I don't think nitrate will
be a problem (But if it *is*, I could increase water changes to twice a
week).
Thanks for all of the help! -Jack
<Good luck! Neale.>
Re: Mastacembelus erythrotaenia question 9/21/09
Hi, Jack again. Let me just say that all of your information has been
great.
<Cool.>
After reading your replies to my earlier questions, I looked at a few
videos of full grown Mastacembelus erythrotaenia feeding and swimming.
And that's when it hit me: This is going to be a gigantic fish.
<Potentially. Takes a good long while though, and assumes it's kept
properly, something one learns not to take for granted with Spiny
Eels...>
In my 125 gallon tank, with a Black Ghost knife, six silver dollars, and
a Ctenopoma. What I'm wondering is if I can keep it in a tank like this
without it feeling cramped or miserable.
<Depends. 125 Imperial gallons is 150 US gallons, and a 125 Imperial
gallon tank should be ample. But 125 US gallons would only be good for a
single specimen, and by the time you've squeezed in the Knifefish, the
Climbing Perch and the Silver Dollars, it would be a bit crowded. Still,
you'd be fine for the first few years, and only once the Fire Eel reach
the 60 cm/24 inch size would upgrading the tank be a pressing issue.
Adding a sump and providing robust filtration would help.>
I know that they are a very intelligent fish, and I really, really don't
want to be one of those people who gets a fish because it's cute, only
to learn the hard way that it grows huge (I admit to once buying a red
belly
Pacu, thinking it would be "Cool" to have in my 30 Gallon tank full of
Neons and sword tails. Pet store told me it would only get 6"). So,
could I get the magnificent Fire eel, or would I have to go with
something else?
<The Tyre-track Eel stays a bit smaller, and the One-Stripe Spiny Eel
(Macrognathus aral) even less, to around 50 cm/20 inches at most. This
latter species is fairly widely sold, though often under the wrong name,
so shouldn't be impossible to track down. If all else fails, the Senegal
Bichir (Polypterus senegalus) or Marbled Bichir (Polypterus palmas) are
both fairly small, at around 35 cm/14 inches at most, but characterful
and peaceful towards things they can't swallow whole. Either would be a
cracking addition to your big fish community. They do tend to get nipped
by cichlids and tetras, but Silver Dollars should be fine and Ctenopoma
acutirostre certainly is, because I've kept them together myself!>
Thanks!
<Cheers, Neale.>
Stingrays and eels, FW comp. – 05/03/09
Hello, Forgive me I am just getting into this! I have a 250 gallon tank
in which I am setting up for freshwater stingrays. Now the man at the
store said I can put a fire eel in with the rays, is this true? I want
to do this
all right I don't want to take any unnecessary risks with my tank. I was
wondering what the best plants I can put in are? The store recommended I
get a fire eel, stingray and some Arowanas, is this a smart mix or fish?
I was also considering an Oscar. Any other advice for the newcomer?
Thanks
for your time. Scott
<Hi Scott. The short answer here is that the larger Spiny Eels, such as
Fire Eels and Tyre-track Eels, have been kept with Stingrays
successfully.
That said, the usual warnings apply. Fire Eels are finicky feeders, and
usually do best in tanks where they can be hand fed. Since both
Stingrays and Fire Eels enjoy earthworms and river shrimps on the
substrate, you want to make sure both are getting enough to eat. There's
also the usual problem with Stingrays that if they get scratched, they
can get very sick; Spiny Eels are nothing if not scratchy! Spiny Eels
also need hiding places; by preference, sand they can dig into, but
that's not something we usually encourage in Stingray tanks because of
problems with hygiene. So you'll need some hollow ornaments (e.g., PVC
tubes) where the Spiny Eel can hide, but that'll take up space from the
Stingray. So while it should work, there are issues to bear in mind.
Stingrays, Arowanas and Oscars usually get along extremely well. Final
advice? Be sure and buy, read a book on Stingrays. These are expensive
and very delicate fish, and most people fail. Be prepared! Water quality
is the issue, and for the first few months, I'd recommend introducing a
single Stingray into a fully cycled tank, and leaving it alone while you
feed it and generally get used to managing the low levels of nitrate you
need. Remember, every additional big fish essentially means you need to
do twice as many water changes, and at some point, this will get
annoying! Cheers, Neale.>
Peacock Eel Companions
3/9/09 Hello All! <Ave,> I have read that loaches are not good
companions for spiny eels because they will bully the eel and keep him from
eating. Can you please be more specific? I have 4 Black Kuhlii Loaches in the
same tank as my peacock eel along with four mystery snails. Assuming the tank is
big enough, I have a sandy substrate and the food is plentiful, do I have
anything to worry about? <Kuhli loaches (Pangio spp.) would be exceptions,
and assuming the Macrognathus species you have was reasonably large, I'd expect
it to compete well. The problem loaches are the fast-swimming, semi-aggressive,
often territorial species, i.e., the majority of loaches! Dojo loaches, Skunk
loaches, Red-fin loaches and so on.> I have another question. I bought
another peacock eel about a week ago because I heard that it is better to have
more than one. Is this true? <For Macrognathus spp., yes, they are sociable.
Mastacembelus spp. eels by contrast are territorial. Peacock eels are usually
Macrognathus siamensis, though of course your retailer might stick the name on
who-knows-what!> Anyway, I put him in the tank and I have never seen him
again. I have a hood covering my tank and the only hole is the space around the
filter and I took a fine netting and velcroed it all around the filter and the
hood so they can't get out and I have fixed it so that the door that I open to
feed them does not open easily. Also, because I know things happen I looked all
around my tanks and basically the whole room and cannot find him. <Hmm...
notorious jumpers, escape artists. If he jumped out, he may have been eaten by a
cat or dog? If he couldn't escape, he's probably still in there somewhere.>
The reason I know he is absolutely gone is because I had both eels in a tank
with a handful of dwarf gouramis, 3 snails, and 4 black Kuhlii loaches, and
since I never got to see the eels and the loaches because they hid all the time,
I took them out of the community tank and put them in another tank; I scooped
out all of the sand from one tank and put in in the other tank and only came up
with one eel. Actually, it's pretty funny (not really funny) because I thought I
only had 3 loaches and found out I had four, but now am missing one eel. Any
ideas? <Well, he's either jumped out (likely); still in there and hiding; or
died, was eaten, and now just bones. Nothing it could otherwise be.> Also, is
it normal for spiny eels to rub themselves against plants and the heater and the
snails (I have even caught one of the snails on top of him!) <They do like
being in contact with solid objects or the substrate, yes. They also like
being tangled up in floating plants. If they "rub" themselves as if itching,
that's something else, and possibly a sign of Ick.> This can't be normal, is
it? And he really buddies up with the loaches. Is this normal? <Likely
less about friendship and more about Spiny Eels and Kuhli loaches both
appreciating the same things in life: burrows, shade, hiding places.> I know
that when fish start rubbing against things it could signify problems, it this
also true with eels? <Can be, yes.> Lana <Cheers, Neale.>
Fiddler crabs versus peacock eel 10/21/08 Hi
<Hello,> I have a freshwater tank with three gold fiddler crabs, one male and
two female. <Uca spp. are brackish water animals... don't last long in
freshwater conditions... On the plus side, at least some Spiny Eels tolerate
brackish water well, and may even be healthier in it than freshwater.> Well I
got a peacock spiny eel, who was about 5 inches, and the next morning he was
being eaten by the female crabs. <The eel died; the crabs ate the corpse.
Spiny Eels die very easily, frequently from bacterial infections. For example,
they can't be kept in tanks with gravel. Must be sand. Gravel scratches the
skin, allows bacteria to get past the mucous layer, and within days they die.
This happens SO OFTEN that it is depressing. Brackish water around SG 1.003 (as
opposed to "teaspoon tonic salt per gallon" nonsense) may be beneficial to Spiny
Eels because it minimises the risk of bacterial infections.> I don't
understand what happened. He was perfectly fine all day long... and I know that
my tank is in great condition. <Do you have sand or gravel in the tank? If
gravel, that's likely part of the issue. Spiny Eels are also easily starved. You
can't keep them with things like loaches and catfish because they don't compete
for food. If you stick one in a community with loaches and catfish, it will get
steadily weaker with time. They obviously don't eat flake or pellets, and need a
meaty diet of things like earthworms or frozen (not freeze dried) bloodworms.
Just getting food into them is hard enough without keeping them with other
nocturnal fish that steal the food first.> Is it possible that the crabs
could have killed the eel? <No. Uca spp. are primarily detritivores, though
they will eat carrion.> The eel was somewhat slow moving and was still very
young. I am very upset about the eel, it was very beautiful and I would really
enjoy having an eel in my community tank. <Sadly, these aren't "easy fish"
and I'd encourage you to read my thoughts here before doing anything else:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/spinyeelsmonk.htm > Ashley
<Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Fiddler crabs versus peacock eel 10/21/08 Thank you so much for the
fast response! <Most welcome.> Well I do have a sand/gravel substrate,
however the aquarium store had large gravel. <Hmm... in my opinion, plain
smooth silica sand is the way to go, particularly with small (sub-20 cm)
specimens.> And the eel was buried in there when I got it. Do you think it is
possible that the eel got the infection at the store?
<Quite possible.> I watched the eel quite intently and he never buried
himself. <Possibly prefers the hiding places available above the substrate.
In any case, they feed by pushing the rostrum (the "trunk" on the nose) into the
sand to uproot insect larvae and worms. So even at that level, sand helps.>
He actually spent most of his time swimming near the top of the water. <They
do indeed like swimming among the roots of floating plants. They're great escape
artists though, so be warned that they're also apt to jump out, if they can.>
Also do you have any suggestions on what I could do to get my tank better
prepared for a peacock eel? <Do read my article; that's everything I know
about them!> I have three small Cory cats, will they be a problem for the
eel? <Does rather depend on the size of the tank and how much food you put
in. Assuming you were generous with the food, these fish might get along just
fine. The real problems come with "bullies" like loaches and Plecs that will
keep the Spiny Eel away from its dinner. Earthworms are the secret to success
with the Mastacembelidae, and they will thrive on these tasty morsels.> I
guess I should let you know that I have a 55 gallon tank with a mostly sand
substrate. There is some small white gravel mixed in with the sand. <Hmm...>
I have got platies, swords, mollies, tiger barbs, 2 rainbow fish, paradise fish,
the Cory cats, and the crabs. Everybody lives perfectly fine together. I usually
put a small amount of aquarium salt in the water. Would this be recommended for
an eel? <I suspect the Fiddlers are on borrowed time. They're amphibious and
will spend all their time trying to get out. The vast majority of specimens in
freshwater aquaria last but a few months. It's a shame they're sold at all, to
be honest. Adding "small amounts of salt" won't really have much effect either
way. They won't make any of these animals healthier, but if you want to waste
your money on boxes of salt, then go ahead, you aren't doing any harm either.>
Ashley <Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Fiddler crabs versus peacock eel 10/21/08
Well thanks again...I know the crabs need air every now and then. <No, it's
not "air now and again" for these crabs. They're land crabs. They live, feed,
socialize on land. They only go into the water to moisten their gills and to
breed. That's it. Otherwise they're as much land animals as, say, frogs. When
kept properly they spend 95% of the time on land. The males are very cute,
standing about waving their giant claws to scare rivals and flirt with females.
This is why they're always trying to escape: it's like trying to stop a bird
from flying away.> I have an external power filter and the crabs climb up the
tubes. But i have built a plastic mesh enclosure so that the crabs can get to
the air but not fully escape. <Sooner or later, crabs escape. I say this as
someone who had to get his parents to take apart their kitchen units to rescue a
Cardisoma crab when I was a teenager! The thing was the size of a softball and
yet managed to escape...> I read your article and it definitely gave a lot
more knowledge about the eels. I do believe that if I try eels again I will get
the gravel out and get some live worms... You've been most helpful! Ashley
<Happy to help. Enjoy your fish. Cheers, Neale.>
Fire Eel and Discus 05/19/08
Heya
For the last 6 months I've had my Fire Eel happily living alone in a 90
gallon tank. it is planted (there's java fern growing on the bogwood). I
want to add 4-6 discus to the tank, I double checked PH and temp and it
is in a discus range (the Eel seems much happier in a warmer
environment). In your experience would discus be compatible with the
fire eel? and what number do you recommend, 4 or 6? when they get big I
plan on setting up a 150 wide for the discus if they do outgrow the 90
gallon.
Jessep
<In theory Spiny Eels could work with Discus. There shouldn't be much
competition over food, and the Discus are far too large to be eaten by a
hungry Spiny Eel. But Fire Eels are VERY big fish once mature (expect
75-90 cm/2.5-3 feet) and that alone may terrify the Discus. So a lot
will depend on how big the Discus are relative to the Spiny Eel. My gut
feeling is that this wouldn't be a long term plan, but a juvenile Spiny
Eel with some full grown Discus might work out for a few months. As for
keeping Discus, six seems to be the magic number as far as avoiding
aggression and ensuring you get a breeding pair. Cheers, Neale.>
Fire eel compatibility 5/16/08
Hello all, I have just one question. I have a 65g tank. At this time I
have 4 paradise Gouramis, 1 gold Gourami, 3 Rainbow fish, 1 African Brown Knife,
1 red fin shark, 1 rainbow shark, 1 Pleco and 1 blood parrot. I was wondering if
I could safely add a fire eel?
<No; quite a busy tank already, and too many of these fish will compete for food
and space. Fire eels are very sensitive to poor water conditions, and you really
need a 100+ gallon to give these fish even a chance of thriving in captivity.
Most specimens die within months of import. Should the fish survive to
adulthood, at least some of these fish would be eaten. Have made the mistake of
combining a Tire Track Eel with Swordtails, which you'd assume would be safe.
Nope: quickly eaten without any difficulty! Do read my article on Spiny Eels,
here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWsubwebindex/spinyeelsmonk.htm>
I am planning on replacing the gravel with sand if I add the eel.
<If you want an "eel", better off with, for example, Polypterus senegalus, one
of the toughest and most easy-going Bichirs.>
Thanks for all of the great info. you all provide. Wet web media is by far the
best sight I have found for info. on the great hobby of fish keeping. Keep up
the great work. Thanks, Virginia
<Thanks for the kind words. Cheers, Neale.>
Spiny eel comp. -
1/24/08
Hello there,
I hope its ok to e-mail you directly.
I have had smaller tanks in the past. 2 weeks ago I got a gently used 55 gal.
tank. It came with a stand, 200 watt heater, and a EHEIM 2213 canister filter. I
have made up my mind that I would build the tank around the three things that I
have always wanted to have in a tank. First was that I have always wanted to
have a spiny eel, the second was sand in the tank and the third where things
like snails and an upside down cat.
<In theory a good idea, but I'd make the point that Spiny Eels are difficult to
feed, and it's best to settle them in and get them tame enough to eat readily
before adding catfish or loaches.>
I have visited several forums, scientific info sites, and I am a little
overwhelmed because I seem have lots of info but none of the answers I am really
looking for (this could be because I haven't figured out the right questions
yet.) So thus I turn to you ... I would like to hear your opinions, hear what
you have observed, and just talk to people that have actually owned eels.
<We have a stack of articles on Spiny Eels, do start with these:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/spinyeelsmonk.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_4/V4I3/Spiny_Eels/Spiny%20Eels.htm
>
Question 1 Which eel(s) would be most appropriate for a 55 gal. tank?
<Almost any of them, though I'd suggest the Tyre-track Eel (Mastacembelus
armatus and M. favus) and Fire eel (M. erythrotaenia) would do better in larger
tanks.>
Question 2 What type of plants are best to be added to the tank (what plants
make the eels most comfortable, do eels do best around, and do well around
eels?)
<Because Spiny Eels burrow, the best plants are epiphytes (Java fern, Anubias,
etc.) and floating plants (Ceratopteris, Hornwort, etc.). Spiny Eels
particularly like floating plants that make a big mass of leaves and roots at
the top of the tank. If nothing else, floating plants seem to encourage them not
to go leaping out the tank. If you want rooted plants in the substrate, I'd go
with robust, shade-tolerant things that won't mind all these floating plants.
Hardy Cryptocorynes like C. wendtii would be ideal.>
Question 3 What type of decor and ornamentation is best (for providing hiding
spots and would be appropriate?)
<Not terribly important. Floating plants are good because the spiny eels will
"burrow" into them where you can watch them. Hollow ornaments are also favoured.
Plastic or ceramic logs are probably the ideal. Rocks and bogwood aren't
terribly important, particularly if the Spiny Eels have lots of sand for digging
into.>
Question 4 Tankmates: What fish go well with eels? I have read that they might
eat smaller slower fish and understand that what Im more interested in are what
are good tankmates that can co-exist without pestering the eel(s)? {Having read
about fin nippers and eel pesterers and not having them defined.}
<Anything too big to swallow will be safe, as Spiny Eels aren't aggressive
towards other fish. Mastacembelus species tend to be mutually territorial, so
they're usually kept alone. Macrognathus species are more sociable, and often
work best in groups of three or more. Rainbowfish and gouramis are excellent
companions for Spiny Eels; you can also choose any of the peaceful barbs and
tetras, for example Golden Barbs or Bleeding Heart Tetras. If you have hard
water, then large livebearers are a good option, things like Swordtails and
Mollies (the latter especially if you're keeping your Spiny Eel in slightly
brackish water). The fish to avoid are anything small and narrow (like Neons or
Danios) as these may be eaten, and anything that will compete with them at night
time for food (such as catfish and loaches).>
Any advice you could give me or if there is anything you think I should consider
I would appreciate hearing back from you,
Chris
<Hope this helps, Neale.>
Tiger Barbs and peacock eels,
comp., Mastacembelids gen. 1/5/08
Hello WWM!
<Hello.>
I am new (2 months) to freshwater aquariums.
<OK.>
I was wondering, will 2 Tiger Barbs and 2 Peacock Eels get along when in the
same 10 gallon tank with limited places to hide and some live aquatic plants?
I'm concerned since both are aggressive species. Will they fight?
<Won't work. Tiger barbs are schooling fish and become nothing but trouble when
kept in groups of less than six. They nip at other fish. So, get six Tiger barbs
before you start fussing about other species. Six tiger barbs need more than 10
gallons of tank space. At least a long 20 gallon tank to get the room to swim
and play they need.>
Also, will Peacock Eels eat spikes (fly larvae), sinking shrimp pellets,
freeze-dried blood worms, Tubifex worms and worms you use as bait when fishing?
This is what I've been feeding them, but can't tell if they are eating or not.
<Peacock Eels, by which I assume you mean Macrognathus siamensis, will eat live
and frozen worms/insect larvae happily enough, but ignore dried foods, pellets,
etc.>
I just got my Tiger Barbs yesterday and they just seem to hang out together.
<Why did you buy just two? That's mean. These are social animals and as they
mature they create a pecking order. Denying them this leads to problems.
Besides, they're too big for a 10 gallon tank. If you have access to January's
edition of TFH Magazine, I have an article in there all about stocking 10 gallon
tanks. Consider this essential reading!>
So far, I've had 3 Striped Peacock Eels (one died when it was exploring its new
home and it was eaten by my filter) they get along fine.
<Please let me make this very clear: Peacock Eels are not easy to keep. For a
start, they CANNOT be kept in tanks with gravel. Putting them in a tank with
gravel is giving the eel a death sentence. These eels dig, and gravel scratches
them, and then they get secondary bacterial infections, and then they die. I
have seen this and heard about this too many times over the last twenty five
years of my keeping tropical fish. Secondly, they are difficult to feed. Live
foods are preferred, and they CANNOT be kept with any night-time bottom feeders.
Neither catfish nor loaches. You must feed the eels at night, and they must be
the only fish in the tank eating the bloodworms or whatever. Otherwise they
starve to death. Finally, they jump out of tanks. Again, this is incredibly
common when people keep these eels. The tank must be almost airtight. Block any
holes big enough for the fish to squeeze through.>
I also had 2 Pictus Cats and a Pleco not survive, any ideas why?
<Your tank is insanely overstocked. A Plec will reach 45 cm, probably longer
than your aquarium! Pimelodus pictus is a schooling, riverine catfish that needs
to be kept in groups in a tank with lots of water current and swimming space.>
I took a peek at your FAQ's and noticed there were quite a few articles about
eels! Good Job!!!
Just out of curiousity, how long have you been studying eels?
<Studying them may be overdoing it a bit, but I kept my first Mastacembelus
armatus back in 1988, and have been keeping and writing about them ever since.>
Also, how are you supposed to determine the sex of Peacock Eels and Tiger Barbs?
<Spiny eels are universally sexed by looking at their body shape: females are
dramatically more deep-bodied than the males. Tiger barb females are rounded at
spawning time. If you have a group of six or more mature fish, it's usually not
a problem to identify the males and females.>
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, a curious newcomer.
<Good luck, Neale.>
Geophagus Sucking on Fire
Eel? 11/15/07
I am sitting here watching my 150 gallon tank and I am seeing one of my
Geophagus sucking on the fins of my 3.5 foot Fire Eel -
<Neat!>
What's up with that? The eel is prowling the surface hoping it is dinner time -
an does not even flinch while the Geophagus is sucking on his tail fins...
<Mmm... how to state this... fish mucus has many properties... of use to its
producer, and is a food source to some other organisms. In this case, your
eartheater>
I assume it is sucking cause there are no bite marks or scuffing.
Any thoughts?
Tim
<If causing no damage, I would not be concerned... the Mastacembelid can take
care of itself, assuredly. Cheers, Bob Fenner>
Spiny Eel questions... ID, sys., comp. 2/26/07
Hiya, WWM. This is Ashley again; the paranoid person with the two spiny eels
named Hope and Doom. <Hi Ashley, spiny eel keeper Marco here.> I'm pretty sure
they're what I've seen called yellow-tailed spiny eels. (Mastacembelus armatus)
<I just had a look at your older mails with pictures and hesitate to agree,
because the second picture seems to show that they have a separate tail fin in
contrast to an unbroken fin. If that’s right, they are not M. armatus, but a
smaller species, probably Macrognathus pancalus (max. 7 inches). Have a look at
the tail fin to verify.> They're still going strong, eating like pigs, and
uprooting my plants. I have been considering "downsizing" in the fish
department, since I have 5 tanks to keep up with now, along with tons of fish,
and many other pets. <That’s just the beginning, you are already addicted…> I
was wondering if the two eels would be okay in a 10 gallon together (alone). I
read somewhere that they stop growing at about 6 inches <Not if they are healthy
M. armatus.>. I was thinking about either keeping them in a 10 gallon, or
keeping just them, the gold dojo loaches, and the pleco(s) in the 30 gallon.
Which would be better? <If they are M. armatus, both tanks are too small in the
long run, since these fishes will get 90 cm (35 inches) long. If they are a M.
pancalus or another Asian species with separate tail fin, the 30 gallons would
ok.> I'm also wondering if the activity of the other fish (various guppies,
mollies, platies, the loaches, and the pleco) affects the eels' activity level.
They are fairly active during the day, and I'm wondering if I take the other
fish out, will the eels' activity level go down? <To me it seems their activity
is high, when the tank mates are peaceful, and low, when they are intimidating
the eels.> Or do I just have some really weird eels? Thanks in advance for your
reply, Ashley. <You are welcome.> Oh, and since they're fairly little, and don't
even bother messing with anything bigger than a bloodworm, do you think they
would harm 2 two and a half-inch Kuhli Loaches? I was told that they would
attack them like worms... <They are probably safe with M. pancalus, but would be
eaten by M. armatus>.
African cichlids and eels??, Eels & Rift Lake Cichlids
hey, would a fire eel work in a mixed African rift lake setup?? I currently
have a 1-2" frontosa, 2" Malawi blue dolphin, 2 3" Synodontis multipunctatus..
if it doesn't work, r there any other eels that might survive in this.. can u
recommend any?? Thanks, Jiwan..
<Well- "survival" is a relative word. Although Fire eels are adaptable to a
range of water conditions, I'd probably pass on adding one to this system. Your
Frontosa is gonna be a BIG fish, and the other fish can be fairly aggressive
feeders. Fire eels also get big -more than 3 feet-but they are generally
nocturnal and are not competitive feeders. For more info on eels, see
://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubwebIndex/matacembelids . Good luck! Scott F.>
Black Shark and Fire Eel - Out of the Frying Pan and Into the Fire!
Hello, hope you can help me!
<I will indeed try.>
I have been looking for quite a while and trying to decide what to purchase for
my tank or if I need to buy a larger tank if it is needed! I am wondering if a
black shark 2" long and a fire eel 9" long will be good tank mates?
<No, black sharks (Epalzeorhynchos bicolor) are said to be very hostile
fish. I've read many sites saying how their red tailed Black Sharks have really
hurt some tank mates. I would think that it would pester a fire eel.>
I know that black sharks are aggressive, but are they to aggressive if they grow
together!
<They will eventually be mean... their nature won't allow them to be nice
forever. No sense putting an eel through that. Here is a quick bit of info on
the black sharks.
http://aquarium.wendellarhoads.com/blshark.shtml
They seem to list what had happened to their tankmates.>
I have heard and red that balas, red tailed sharks, or rainbows and good
possible tank mates, what about black sharks?
<larger rainbows wouldn't bother an eel at all. The others you run a risk.>
Would a lot of hiding places for the eel make a difference or keeping the black
shark well fed make a difference?
<It would help, but wouldn't take care of the underlying issue that the fish
would be mean to the eel. I suggest that if you want these two fish, you think
about having two separate tanks for them. Then you can enjoy both without
worry. Good luck -Magnus.>
Help Needed!!! Thanks CHO, IA
Puffers
I have one question, but first here is my tank set-up. 20 gallon tank with
whisper filter and heater (it always stays at 76.5 degrees) inside are two dwarf
puffer and three Buenos Aires tetras. I want to add a fire eel. Can I? What I
mean is can I add the eel with out It killing the puffers?
<No, I wouldn't add that to the tank, I really think that a fire eel will try to
eat the dwarf puffers. Even if it doesn't eat them, it will surely stress the
tiny things out. I would suggest setting a tank specifically for the eel if you
really want to get one.>
African cichlids w/ eels
I have been doing some serious research about this and have unfortunately
gotten (as usual) conflicting advise on the matter. First off I love the site,
great answers. What do you know about Aethiomastacembelus elipsifer or
Aethiomastacembelus plagiostoma?
<Not much. Members of this genus of spiny eels rarely come into the trade in the
west>
I have an African setup in a 55 gallon w/ black sand and tons of rocks to hide
in. Do you think these guys would do well? I know to cover any and every hole
to prevent suicide and thought about actinic lights to possibly increase the
time spent swimming instead of hiding. Tell me what you guys think.
Thanks,
<If the cichlids are not overly aggressive... and you can get the eels in
relatively good initial health... you just might have a very nice biotope set-up
going. Please write in re your experiences with these mastacembelids. Bob
Fenner>
Freshwater eel
Hi there, crew. It's been a while since I've written. Last we "spoke" I
had gone freshwater only. I found good homes for my SW fish and corals, and now
have a 180 oceanic with a huge sump and bio balls. I keep the tank at 80 F, and
I am using an Iwaki RXLT 40 full blast for sump return. I do a 30 gallon water
change once a week, and clean the overflow sponges at that time. I run a 40
Watt Aqua UV light on the tank, and use a diatom filter once a week at water
change time. The gravel is a little on the large side, and not really conducive
to burrowing. There are a lot of rock caves, though. I have four clown
loaches (2 are 8+ inches [13 years in my care, so far] and two are 2 inches); 2
small Corys, 9 glass catfish, 2 Plecos. I was thinking about adding a spiny eel
(after lengthy quarantine, of course). What do you think? I have read your
FAQs, and would like to know what kind of eel might go well in that tank. I
also have another tank (80 gal) with just a couple of dwarf Gouramis that I
could place the eel in (he's going to start there, anyway). Would be interested
in recommendation for a fish that did not grow too large and would not eat any
tankmates. I feed frozen bloodworms, mysis shrimp, flake food and sinking
pellets. My loaches are pretty old and hefty, so I assume that they're happy
with the diet.
thanks for your help, tom
Dear Tom; Tire track eels grow to two feet, and will eat any tankmates that fit
into its mouth. Likewise fire eels. There is a pretty eel that grows to around 4
inches called the Short finned spiny eel (Latin name is Mastacembelus zebrinus)
if you can find one for sale. Many other eels are either aggressive, grow large
enough to eat your other fish, or are brackish/marine. Here is a link for ya:
http://saltaquarium.about.com/cs/eelprofilesindex/a/aa082901.htm
-Gwen
Purchasing some spiny eels
I was thinking about purchasing some spiny eels from an online store.
Is it wise to have a striped peacock, a Zig Zag, and a fire eel all in the same
tank?
<Not problematical in terms of them getting along, feeding/foods, having
different habitats if this is what you mean>
Also, the site I was planning on ordering from said that spiny eels eventually
needed 29 gallon tanks... but I read about people having to put them in 100
gallon tanks, what's the minimum size I can have for one and does it affect what
size of tank I need if I have one of each of the aforementioned spiny eels?
<Mmm, at least a hundred for the Fire Eel... gets quite large over time, in good
health... the others could live in 29 gallon systems (well-covered!). Please
read here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/matacembelids.htm
and the Related FAQs (linked, in blue, at top)>
I read that the eels will eat crustaceans, so I assume a blue crayfish would
be a bad tank mate... Is it wise to order online? Or would you suggest going
to a local breeder or distributor? Thanks in advance.
<Both sources could work... or be trouble. The spiny eels are quite tough if
cared for well, and doomed if not... Seeing them ahead of purchase is definitely
a bonus, better start if you can find, order them locally. Bob Fenner>
Trapping Spiny Eels
Dear Crew, Would any of you have any experience in trapping eels? I have a
240gal. acrylic tank that I want transfer my Discus and Angels and Clown Loaches
to. In this tank are several Leleupi Cichlids, Dnobnoi and a large clan of
Brichardi so I will have to take all the rock and wood out anyway. But, as you
know, the eels will be able to go under the gravel. The gravel is 4 to 5 inches
deep and supports a jungle of Giant Val and a variety of other plants I would
rather not have to rip up (their roots are a mass of tangles). Also, there are
LOTS of eels. I had put just two in. Now, what are the odds that the 2 eels I
bought were male and female!!! Or are they able to change sex to fit the
situation? At first I was so amazed, and thrilled, to see the cutest little
baby, but they just kept coming! I think there must be at least 5 generations
in there. I think the smallest might be catchable because they don't seem able
to get under the gravel and instead live amongst the plants and wood. However
Mom and Pop and several of the teenagers disappear with no trouble at all. Any
suggestions? Thank you for any help you can offer.
< WOW, WOW, WOW. If these are true Lake Tanganyikan eels this is the first
incident I have heard of. African eels are very expensive and are not very
common in the hobby. Too bad you want to swap them out. Many of these eels sell
for up to $45 plus depending on the species and the size. I suspect that they
have been breeding in the Val grass and feeding off the numerous baby cichlids
being bred in the tank. A few years ago while diving in Lake Tanganyika my wife
noticed a pair spawning with cichlids all around eating the eggs. Sorry they are
a real pain to catch and I am unaware of any traps available.-Chuck
Questions about Peacock Eel
Hi folks!
<Howdy Carol>
First of all thank you for a very informative website! I am a constant reader,
and have learned much by reading your articles and responses to other people's
questions.
<Welcome>
I have my own questions for you now, regarding a Peacock eel. I raise Mystery
Snails and my nursery tanks are nearly overflowing.
<These are great animals... when/where raised "properly"... unfortunately, most
all the ones that go "through" normal wholesale channels are either DOA or very
close to it...>
I would like to relocate some snails to my 55 gal tank which houses a 5" peacock
eel. Would this be safe?
<Should be... small snails might be eaten, but this mastacembelid does not eat
larger snails by and large... however, worms of all kinds are history>
I don't want to create a scenario that is going to result in snail carnage. I
have some Sterbai Corys (10) in the tank with the eel. The LFS was adamant about
Peacock eels being 'very, very gentle' and no problems at all with snails.
However, I don't know if I can trust them as we all know that LFS's are renowned
for misinformation.
<All must by evaluated by you in the final synthesis>
I have read on the Web conflicting information about Peacock eels, some say that
they are extremely aggressive and will take small fish (like Corys) when they
get large enough to do so.
<I have never seen this... and have handled hundreds of Peacocks... other spiny
eels that get much larger (e.g. erythrotaenia, the Fire) don't even touch
armored cats...>
I have also read that Peacocks are very gentle and won't eat anything aside
from live worms, perhaps the odd bit of fresh shrimp, and/or ghost shrimp.
<This is my opinion>
Can you please tell me the truth... would such an eel take mystery snails, or
bite off their tentacles? My snails range from babies of a few mm long to full
sized adults. I have even contemplated another tank just to house the eel, but
I've run out of room for more tanks quite some time ago. (I guess I could
rearrange the furniture again though...).
Also, how do Peacock eels do when housed with members of their own species?
<Very well... are extremely social animals>
I was advised to get a second eel to make mine feel more 'at home'. Thank
you so much for any information you can give me!
Sincerely, Carol
<Thank you for writing. Bob Fenner>
Peacock Eel average questions/conflicting answers
I just discovered your website and I LOVE IT! I've been a constant freshwater
fish fan for years and I have just purchased a peacock eel (Mastacembelus
erythrotaenia <<This is a/the Fire... perhaps
Macrognathus siamensis? RMF>)
and I was just wondering if there was any way to tell the difference between the
sexes. Also I have done as much research as I can and I have found so many
conflicting reports it makes me dizzy. I just want to make sure I have the
basics right so that he/she can live long and happy. For now he's in a 29 gallon
(and in about 4 to 5 months to be moved to a 75 gallon) and the temperature goes
from 70 (at night) to 75 (in the day). He is in something the pet store called
"red sand" but it isn't red and looks like normal sand. The pH sometimes varies
from 7.1 to 7.4. He seems to love the sand and only 5 minutes after releasing
him he had found a perfect spot to dig and stick his head out. Some of the
websites I visited said that they could eat flakes or pellets, is this true? for
now he seems happy just to eat bloodworms that come out of this feeder when they
are unfrozen. I was thinking (because I know in general spiny eels like live
food) to add 1 male guppy and 2 female guppies so that when they mated he could
eat the fry. My brother has a soft shelled turtle that he does this with and it
seems to work rather well. In a couple of websites they said it would be ok to
put him with a knife fish. My knife fish is very friendly and for the short time
I had a sting ray in there (babysitting for a friend who's bacteria had all died
after his younger brother poured in a bunch of VERY old fish medicine) the knife
fish actually made friends with him and would swim just above him and tickle him
with his lower fin. These are a lot of questions but I really want him/her to be
happy. (I also like to know whether they are male or female so I can name them).
>> Your eel should be called "fire eel" by its common name. The peacock spiny
eel is another species, that does not have the red lines on its body. If it is a
fire eel, it will get to a very large size, that means over three feet long, and
he will need a tank large enough to live as he gets older. They do like live
food, especially live earth worms. He should be fine with a knife fish. You may
want to make sure that your temperature is more stable, best between 74 and 80
degrees Fahrenheit.
Good Luck, Oliver
Fire Eels
Hello- I came across a website that had your email address and some
information on the fire eel. A friend of mine recently purchased a fire eel and
would like to get some more info. Would you happen to know how one goes about
determining the sex??
<Not able to do... externally... as far as I'm aware>
Also, is it ok to put more than one eel in your aquarium??
<Yes... a docile (though does get large) species toward fishes bigger than
mouth-size, including other mastacembelids. Bob Fenner>
She would really appreciate any info you could give on the subject. Thank you,
JB Hampton
Striped peacock eel info 3/16/06
Dear Robert,
I am new to eel care and have some questions regarding eel behavior. My eel is
approximately 6-8 in long (I'm not sure exactly because he doesn't stay still)
and appears to be healthy. I have only had him a few days and he still looks
pretty nervous about his new home.
<Typical>
I have a 55 gallon aquarium with 1TB aquarium salt for every 5 gal. I am unsure
about this but have read they do ok in brackish aquariums.
<To an extent, yes>
My main question is that could my 6-8 in eel eat a 3.5 in Senegal bichir or 5 in
violet goby?
<No, could not>
My bichir is terrified of my eel and the violet goby is MIA at the moment.
<The latter may have "jumped out"... look about on the floor... or be hiding.>
Also I am unsure he is getting enough to eat I have tried fresh raw fish, cut
Nightcrawlers, and shrimp pellets.
I have heard and read that these are all foods accepted by eels but I am
nervous anyway.
<Best to offer some live worms, insect larvae that sink...>
would a sort of community feeding spot work?
<Mmm, could>
None of my other fish are terribly voracious and I was thinking of a watering
hole type situation. If you could help to unravel some of this I would
appreciate it.
Sincerely,
Matt Tompkins
<I do hope your livestock all settle-in... they should be compatible... that is,
"get along" with another. I would not add any more salt than you mention... and
would try black worms, tubificids for your mastacembelid eel for now. Bob
Fenner>
Fire Eel fdg., sys./comp. 4/1/06
Hi Crew!
<Michael>
Hope all is well in Wet Web land.
I have a feeding issue with my 12" Fire Eel. I purchased him 8 days ago
from my LFS and since then I have not been able to get (him or her) to eat.
<Happens... mastacembelids don't like changes... and being "moved" is a
biggie>
(We will assume its a he)............. I have tried feeding him frozen
bloodworms with no luck and have just tried frozen krill even though I could not
find any documentation supporting krill to feed him.
<Some will take... but takes training on to>
He is in a 94 gallon corner tank with plenty of caves housed with a red
empress, Hap Ali, sunshine peacock, yellow lab, pike cichlid,
<These are aggressive species...>
and 2 cats (4" and not sure the type). All fish are between 4-5 inches.
I understand that there is some good competition for food for him and have
found ways around that. I have tried using a feeding stick to spear the krill
and have used the stick which acts like a turkey baster as well to blow the
bloodworms by him. He has had ample time to eat both. My latest attempt today
was to put the bloodworms in a shot glass and to lay the glass in the tank (and
yes, I took the Jack Daniels out of the shot glass first).
<Heee, good idea to both>
The bloodworms stayed in the glass and the cichlids left the food alone. I
left that in there for a half hour and watch patiently to see him not eat.
I have read and re-read your archives and understand that they can go on
hunger strikes for weeks at a time but I guess I would really value your input
on my situation.
Aside from not eating he does look healthy and acts fine.
Thank you in advance for your assistance!
Michael J. Bukosky
<I would try some live worms... likely "black Tubifex" if you could find, or
other... placed in a container as you've done here... but really, the best
scenario is going to be to place this fish in a less-agonistic setting...
completely covered top, with "soft" rounded substrate, diffuse lighting and
soft/er, more acidic water than some of the fish you list prefer. I would do
this move if this spiny eel does not feed within another week. Bob Fenner>
Peacock Eel questions... sys., comp. 4/26/06
Hello!
I just found your site, and it's great! Anyway, I have a few questions. I
currently have a peacock eel and 4 mollies (2 Sailfins, 2 shortfins) in my
aquarium. I have read in some places that Peacock Eels like brackish water,
<Mmm, can tolerate some...> *
and so do mollies, but other places say that the Peacock Eel is completely
freshwater.
<Many mastacembelids are brackish... not this one. Please see:
http://filaman.ifm-geomar.de/Summary/SpeciesSummary.php?id=50400>
Do Peacock Eels benefit from marine salt in their water?
<Not much, no>
How much salt should I add is this is the case?
<A minimum amount...>
Also, I have seen a 'Figure 8 Puffer' in my local fish shop, and was also
wondering if this species is a suitable tankmate.
<... no. Too likely to bite the mollies, spiny eel>
I have also heard that they are brackish.
<... please see WWM re>
Any other information about suitable tankmates for my mollies and my Peacock Eel
would be greatly appreciated!
Paul
<Paul... time to read my friend. Learn to/use the indices, search tool on WWM.
Bob Fenner>
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