Stupid dechlorinator question, Mmm, not so, ponds    6/24/07
Hello. First of all I'd like to say thank you so much for helping me out with my last problem, it helped save my two sick koi fish!
<Ah, am glad you were able to do so>
The following may seem like silly questions, but nonetheless my dad and I can't reach an agreement on the matter. Let's say you have a 1,000 gallon pond, and do a 20% water change. Do you need to add only enough dechloraminator to the pond to treat 200 gallons, or 1,000 gallons worth of the stuff?
<The former>
If you add only enough to treat 200 gallons to the pond, will it dilute to the point it won't be able to find and detoxify the chloramine/chlorine in the added water?
<Mmm, no>
And can adding too much dechloraminator be harmful?
<For almost all products, not harmful in the least>
Cause we just replaced about 10% of the water in our 1,000 gallon pond. I added enough to treat 100 gallons (which wasn't really necessary anyway), but I think when my back was turned my dad added another cup to treat all 1,000 gallons. Also, when exactly do you add the dechloraminator to the pond, before you add the new water or after?
<Before is best>
Or do you need to dechlorinate the water in a bucket before adding to the pond?
<Before...>
Sorry,
neither the instructions on the bottle nor any articles I've found are very clear on this matter. Perhaps because it is so simple! Thanks for your patience!
<Your questions, comments are insightful. Thank you for sharing. Bob Fenner>

Pond pH & GH... RMF's regrettable advice... TAKE CARE!    3/29/06
Hi crew
<Howdy>
I am writing to you from Athens, Greece. I have 3750-gallon concrete pond (3 years old) with a self- built compartment filter and a massive UV to keep the water clear. For the moment the pond houses a group of wild caught fish (Common carp, Chondrostoma nasus and Leuciscus cephalus) and 6 goldfish. The pond is filled up with well water which is extremely hard pH > 8.5 and GH > 40. Although this is not the best option for the fish present, they have acclimated rather well since I never had any loss (not even during the 5 hour transport by car in mid-summer @ 40o C)
<Have been to Athens... is very hot during the summer!>
during this time and the fish are feeding well and have never been diseased. Anyway the next step is to breed these beauties, but as you might think they have never spawned with this alkalinity around. I was thinking of adding some peat in the filter, but I don’t know if this is going to work in such a volume of water (besides the obvious drawbacks).
<Yes... a mess>
Do you have any suggestion of a cost efficient way to bring the alkalinity down? (Treated tap water, DI or R/O not an option for the time being).
Thanks
<The easiest and least-expensive is not the least dangerous. But I will mention it here... with tacit warnings. Use of an inorganic acid, like HCl... usually available as 3 molar Muriatic Acid... can be employed, OUTSIDE the system... as in batch-processed new water to be gradually placed in the main system with water changes... USE an alkalinity test kit, ascertain about the amount of acid to use per whatever volume water you are using/changing, mix and store for a day or more before applying. DO this carefully, taking pains to not spill the Muriatic on you, your clothes, to AVOID breathing the fumes, rinsing down the deck, plants that may have the acid spilled on them. Bob Fenner>

Re: Pond pH & GH - 03/29/06
Thanks for your immediate reply Bob.
<Welcome>
I agree with you that the addition of an inorganic acid is an option, not the best but I didn't leave you much slack... One last question though. As a marine biologist nothing would make me happier than tackling the alkalinity problem biologically if possible...
<Can/could be done... there are plants in particular that absorb a good deal of alkaline earth material... Ceratophyllum, Myriophyllum species... Cattails/Tules, family Typhaceae mainly... even Nymphaeaceans...>
Are you aware of a freshwater or an extremely euryhaline marine organism (possibly sessile invertebrate) that provided it is kept in "substantial numbers" takes up decent amounts of Ca salts?
<Mmm, yes... there are some "pretty" rapidly biomineralizing invertebrates... but none that will likely make "much of a difference, timely..." Do you have another good-sized basin (hundreds of gallons) where you might culture some thallophytes? Any local candidates that seem to become "scruffy" in the wild? Perhaps even recruited corallines could be put to use here. Bob Fenner>
Thanks again.  

Re: Pond pH & GH  3/30/06
Once again thanks for the advice Bob.
<Most welcome>
I will look into the "plants scenario" a bit more thoroughly (sounds terrific) and will inform you about the outcome.
The certain thing is that I have to extent the pond (special compartment of some sort) because plants and carp don't mix well...
<Many possible experiments for you here... Exciting to consider and execute. Thank you for sharing. Bob Fenner>

Automatic Dechloraminator 7/10/03
I have a top off system on my pond (1200 gallon) that is supplied by the local municipal water system. I would like to add a automatic dechloraminator. Do know of a supplier I can contact?
Thanks Lee
<do a keyword search on the Internet (or seek other resources like Thompson's Registry, etc) for Aquaculture supplies/suppliers. Places like "Area, Inc" in Florida that supply fish farmers with such equipment. Best regards, Anthony>