Native marine fish; selection, maintenance    2/8/08
I'm aware of all the information that you guys have on saltwater related topics, however, I can't find anything here or anywhere else about keeping native marines from the Gulf of Mexico.
<I see.>
I tried collecting some when we went to Florida on vacation last year (we live in mid-Missouri) but I lost all but two barnacles and a couple of clams due to the fact that I accidentally put them in front of a heater vent (I could have killed myself for doing that, as it wasted all the shrimps, decorator crabs, juv. blue crabs, snails, hermit crabs, sand bugs, and a sea hare that I found).
<This is usually the prime reason people lose native fish -- overheating. Read a book on the marine fauna of where you're collecting, and aim for species that are on the cooler end of their natural range. These species will tend to tolerate room temperature conditions well. Fish that prefer cold conditions but happen to stray into warmer water tend to be much less resilient So a fish that inhabits the Gulf of Mexico but ranges as far north as, say, North Carolina would be better than an Arctic fish that has its southernmost range at South Carolina.>
I also had a nightmare trying to find fish, although I did catch one 3"-4" saltwater catfish (Arius sp.) and what I believe to be some sort of kelp fish 1-1/2"-2" (I didn't have time to identify it because I left my identification book back at the condo).
<Hmm... Ariopsis/Bagre spp catfish are very robust fish in public aquaria. I'm not sure what you mean by "kelp fish". Presumably a wrasse or porgy of some time. Again, hardy and basically easy to keep, but like to get large. For native fish aquaria, from personal experience your best bets are small tide pool and estuarine fish, because these have evolved to tolerate extremes (and rapid changes). Gobies, blennies, killifish, and so on tend to work well. Pufferfish are good, too, but they do need a lot of oxygen and excellent water quality. Triggerfish do very well in aquaria. Certain flatfish also work well, but they're nocturnal and a bit fiddly to get settled down (though I had a very tame Atlantic Plaice that ate trout pellets!>
However, neither one lived more than a day, because I forgot to bring air pumps. So now I'm trying to prepare in advance for next time. So here are my questions:
What species are suitable (yes I know, the kelp fish would have gotten too large, and I also know that fish like gobies and pipefish are suitable, but I couldn't find them)?
<Almost the best fish to start with are killifish, livebearers, gobies, and blennies. Most are small, hardy, and omnivorous. You can often obtain live specimens mail order from biological supply houses; Cyprinodon killifish for example are very widely used as lab animals, even if they're never traded as pets. A lot of aquarists have no idea there are marine killifish, but there are.>
What temperature would be right for them? All the articles on keeping temperate marines are talking about fish from up North, not fish from around Florida.
<A difficult question to answer, though I refer you to my comment above. The problem is that in temperate zones fish are adapted to vary temperatures. Arctic species, for example, will live in shallow water at low latitudes during the winter, but move into colder, deeper water in the summer. Conversely, subtropical/warm temperate species might only appear in northern parts of their range in the summer, and either die off or migrate south when it gets cold. For example, here in the UK we have triggerfish around the coast, but its too cold for them to breed even in summer, even though they happily feed and grow. When winter comes, most of them die, only to be replaced in spring with more triggerfish that drift in with the Gulf Stream. This underlines the fact that temperate zone marine communities are much more complex that coral reef communities which largely stay the same all year around. In any case, your temperature options will be limited if you don't have a chiller. At room temperature in a cool part of the house (say, the basement or garage) you might have a tank that's around 15 C in winter but over 20 C in summer. That'll be fine for subtropical/warm temperate fish like triggers, but deadly to coldwater scorpionfish. As I've said, you really need to cut according to your cloth. If room temperature is all you can do, then carefully select species that will tolerate this. Many will, luckily, but not all. Beadlet anemones, killifish, gobies, mullets, blennies, shore crabs, pistol shrimps, mantis shrimps, Crangon and Penaeus shrimps are all among the things I've found to be very hardy.>
What species am I likely to find over sand with a little bit of seaweed (various species ie. Caulerpa, and a little Sargassum weed along with a host of others that I couldn't identify.)
<Macroalgae are a difficult thing to maintain in aquaria without good lighting, and lights generate heat, and heat messes up your coldwater aquarium. So there's a good argument for avoiding macroalgae. That said, much of the Sargassum weed community will do well in room temperature aquaria, being adapted to mild rather than cold water.>
What would be the best way to catch them, a seine?
<Yes, or traps of various sorts. Crabs are easily caught with baited lines, but I'd warm you against catching crabs because they are incredibly destructive. Prawns and shrimps are much better, and very durable. You may even be able to get live specimens as fish food (we can here in England, anyway) and these do astonishingly well in aquaria. Bait shops may offer some shrimps and worms suitable for use (though ragworms (Nereis spp.) and the like are highly predatory). It's a good idea to get the biological filter up and running using this "junk" stuff before going after the really nice things.>
I now have six battery pumps for bringing the fish home, anything else you would suggest?
<Collect in summer, or at least when it warms up. You want the fish/critters to be adapted to warm water conditions prior to collection. In winter time, if you dump stuff into a room temperature tank, it'll be very stressful, likely fatal.>
Any help you can give will be GREATLY appreciated.
Thanks,
Brandon
<Hope this helps, Neale.>

Reef Flat Biotope  11/13/07
Hello Scott Fellman,
<WWM's resident Biotope Geek (or just resident geek?) is here!>
You helped me to decide on a biotope of a reef flat.
<An excellent choice! A fun biotope to replicate!>
I am moving towards that direction and am including a link to Michigan Reefers, a website forum I use. My screen name is Spanko as you read through it.
<I soo want to make of-color comments about your screen name! But I won't- and I promise to stick to the job at hand!>
Hope you enjoy where I am so far and I look forward to any and all critique from you or any of the other crew members.
<I'd be honored to!>
Thank you for your help thus far and I will keep you posted as time goes on. Hopefully time will be kind to my tank and the biotope I am trying to create.
OOPS forgot the link.
http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=134535&st=0&gopid=1331380&#entry1331380
Best regards,
Henry G. Mello
<Well, Henry- I am impressed with the thought that you've put into the system thus far. I'll do my best to offer some ideas and not screw it up for you! First off, I like the fact that you are depicting a biotope and selecting a small number of species. Too often, hobbyists go for the "fruit stand" look of dozens of frags of various stony corals all over the place, with every inch covered. Not only does it look unnatural, but it is downright goofy, IMO! Selecting a few choice specimens and allowing them to grow is an excellent approach, particularly in a nano tank like you are running. If it were me, I'd probably limit the species selection to one Acropora, one Montipora, and maybe one Pocillipora species. The less competition, the more potential for success! An I'd be inclined to skip the clam, unless much larger potential quarters await.
Ohh- and the rockwork should be nice and open- allowing for future growth of the corals. use as little as possible to achieve the look you desire. No rock walls-please no rock walls! Argh!
In regards to your lighting- I am a big fan of 10,000k lighting. It has a balanced, aesthetically bright look to it, and corals grow well under it. Actinic is really an option based on your tastes. Some people find all 10,000k-illuminated aquaria a bit "washed out" (then again, some people like peach fuzz, pork rinds, and eggplant-so tastes can vary), so the use of some actinic will keep them from having a breakdown of sorts. I prefer all 10,000k myself, but it's your call.
As far as the fishes are concerned, the Talbot's Damsel is a beautiful fish, but you could have some aggression issues in an aquarium of this size. They can be a bit crazy at times, so I'd start with small ones, added all at the same time to maximize the opportunity for success. I tried an all-Damselfish aquarium a number of years ago (now referred to as "The Great Damsel Massacre of 1996"), stocking a medium sized aquarium with about 20 small Damsels. Net result was one very mean, very ugly survivor (yep- it was a Domino-the ugliest one!) and feelings of guilt that haunt me to this day! At night- I have dreams...the Damsels are coming, and they all have cans of Tetra Min Guppy Food and...ok- never mind! Seriously, do approach with caution. A really cool idea might be to stock with a few small, peaceful fishes like the cute "Highfin Blenny", Atrosalarias fuscus, or other small, reef-flat associated fishes, such as Gobiodon okinawae, the "Yellow Coral Goby". Or, you could cheat a bit in the fish department (I won't tell anyone!) and sneak in a trio of Yellow Assessors (Assessor flavissimus) or a Firefish (like Nemateleotris decora)in there as peacful, interesting, and colorful alternatives. Just a thought if you're not dead-set on being absolutely faithful to nature in the fish department.
Well- I'm rambling on here- but you get the idea. Your plan seems good...just don't overstock, an please don't "over-species". Limit the animal choices and you'll see larger, happier and healthier specimens! best of luck, and keep me updated! Regards, Scott F.>

A "Biohead" in The Making! (Biotope Aquarium Enthusiast!) – 10/01/07
Hello Scott here I am again.
<Glad that you're back!>
It looks like my project is getting closer to a go as I am working with a LFS to return my softies and LPS for store credit. He says he also has a source in the Philippines for aqua cultured SPS so I will be working with him on that when I am ready.
<I'm glad that you're looking towards aquacultured corals; so important for the long-term viability of our hobby.>
My questions for you today are:
*Are there any fish possibilities I am overlooking for this biotope. Ina 29gallon of course I am limited by the size. I am currently looking a picking from a list of Damsels, Flame Hawkfish, Geometric Pygmy Hawkfish.
<I like the Pygmy Hawk...a really small fish, but a nice addition to an aquarium of this size. Damsels would be appropriate, but their aggressiveness in this sized aquarium can be a nuisance. How about some Blennies and/or Gobies as well? Excellent, appropriate choices for this biotope and aquarium size.>
Also are any of those listed not found on the reef flats?
<Well, these fishes are found in a variety of biotopes and reef locales, but they are commonly found on reef flats.>
*What motile inverts should I be looking at to keep with the theme?
<Various urchins, Starfish, Sea Cucumbers, small crabs, and many others.>
*I have a T. Derasa currently. As you remember I will be going bare bottom. Is this clam in tune with the theme and if so will it survive on the top of the rockwork without any sand?
<I can survive in a variety of reef environments, but it's typically found on outer reef edges, as opposed to reef flats. T. maxima might be a more appropriate choice for a reef flat environment, IMO.>
I am doing an abundance of research on this mostly on the net but these few questions I cannot seem to answer for myself so I am again tapping your knowledge. I hope you don't mind.
<No problem...there is a lot of information out there if you use a little creativity in searching, so keep at it and you'll find all sorts of cool stuff!>
Thank you in advance for any additional information that you can provide me. This is really starting to be a fun project; I hope I can pull it off.
Best regards,
Henry G. Mello
<I have no doubt that you will pull it off...and it should be great! Best of luck and keep me posted! Regards, Scott F.>

A Biotope Is Born (Planning a Biotopic Display) – 09/22/07
Hello WetWebMedia crew.
<Scott F. here today!>
I have had the pleasure of your help before in setting up my tank. I am going to ask for it once again.
<Sorry...only one answer per person...Nah- just joking! Ask away!>
My Oceanic Bio-cube 29 gallon is now about 9 months old. It is doing great.
<Good tohear>
The requisite fishes and corals are a hodgepodge of different things that I have come to like and feel that it may be a problem in the future with chemical warfare as they start to grow out.
<It will be in the long run...>
Rockwork is a wall of sorts.
<ARRGGHHHH!!! Something I'm rather opinionated on! TEAR DOWN THE WALL!>
I am tired of it.
<GOOD!>
I am tired of islands of rock. I am tired of valleys of rock.
<Hmmm...that takes care of the other 1/3 of standard rockscape configurations used in the hobby...LOL>
I like the look of reef shelves. Those areas of the reef where the bottom has a layer of rock on which is attached Monti cap, Acro, varied encrusting SPS and a column of water over it where schools of fish swim.
<Very cool...I've seen what you are referring to!>
So my question to you all, what would you think would happen if I took all of the nice but mismatched (as far as where they are normally located in the wild) corals in my tank out.
<Ohh, if you do that, darn-they might start thriving...LOL>
I would then take all of the sand and fish and
motile inverts out. I would save the rock but spread it out across the bottom of the tank leaving spaces in between, bare bottom, no sand.
<Well, you had me until the "no sand" part...I understand the desire to keep BB aquariums for some people, but IMO, sand just completes the aquascape.>
These spaces would be for flow and whatever small fish that I would get in the future, and that reside on a reef shelf like this, to swim through.
<Nice idea. I've seen Japanese aquariums set up in a similar manner to a very nice effect.>
Those fish I am finding could be Neopomacentrus, Pomacentrus , Chrysiptera, and perhaps Neocirrhites and Oxycirrhites.
<Interesting, colorful mix of small fishes. Stock 'em carefully in this 29 gallon system. Look for a "Geometric Pygmy Hawkfish (scientific name escapes me right now) for this system. A great small fish.>
I would be placing the base rock
about 1/4 to 1/3 of the way up the entire bottom to create a mounting platform for coral. Maybe even far enough up to cover the bottom sump inlet so that it pulls water from "underneath" the shelf. Then start to add Monti
caps and Acros and encrusting type corals that research would tell me (after I did the research of course) live in this environment.
<I'm loving the fact that you did your homework on this...If I saw you in person I'd give you a big hug....A fellow Biotope geek! This is my current obsession, too. For those who aren't familiar with the term "biotope aquarium", this is nothing more than an aquarium designed to replicate representation of a specific environmental niche found in nature. The fishes and invertebrates in the aquarium would be representative of the species found in nature in the same niche.>
Now knowing already that this type of reef shelf has the most turbulent varied flow on it I could make this happen with a couple of Korallia's up top pointing at each
other. Then perhaps one of the very small Tunze power heads right at the bottom glass to push flow through the base as I would not have to worry about blowing sand all over.
<OK- you're giving me one of the only reasons why you should consider bare bottom...lots of flow in a small aquarium...I'll cut you some slack :0 >
I already have lighting that consists of 2- 10k daylight, 1- actinic, and 1- 50-50 PC light for a total of 144 watts in a
tank that is 19" deep and where the light is in a hood that sits tight on the tank. I currently have some Monti Cap and encrusting Monti that are growing well is this light. The bottom "floor" would probably be about 4 or
5 inches deep so the coral would start off being mounted there and growing upwards. It would transition from lower in one of the front corners to a
little higher in the opposite back corner just to give it some visual affect. I would like to add a tabling Acro, and maybe a Porites Rus that pillars as the center piece coral.
<Neat. I like the variation in height. If done right, it adds visual interest and depth.>
So my question(s) are:
1. Is this doable in the configuration I am trying to relate to you?
<Certainly. I'm thrilled that you're trying it. I do wish that you were doing it in a larger aquarium, of course, but it can certainly be accomplished in this system.>
2. Would the Hawkfish be able to survive in the amount of turbulent flow I am looking to create and are they truly an inhabitant of these reef shelves?
<I've kept Hawkfish just fin in situations with lots more flow than what you're proposing without any problems whatsoever. Rest easy.>
I hope I have made this explanation of my thoughts clear enough for you to understand and that you can give me your opinion(s) and suggestions.
<Sounds wonderful, really. I am a huge fan of biotopic modeling (in fact, I'm writing a book on it and speaking on the topic at clubs!), so you "go me at hello"! Seriously, this will make a very unique setup. I love the fact that you are limiting your fish and coral selections to just a few species. A system like this, if properly maintained and not overcrowded, can be a real source of pride and an inspiration to fellow hobbyists! Go for it!>
Thank you for always being there.
<A pleasure! Do take pics and send them to me when you get this system up and running. I'm always looking for pics of unique biotopes for my presentations, and this one may be quite different!>
Best regards,
Henry G. Mello
<A pleasure! Regards, Scott F.>

Re: A Biotope is Born (Cont'd.) – 09/23/07
Thank you Scott, very informative and it sounds like I got a biotope geek for may answer.
<Or just a geek, as the case may be...>
On the subject lighting for this project. I have an Oceanic 29 gallon bio-cube. I have the lighting upgraded to the following:
2 10 K's 36 watts each.
1 50/50 36 watts.
1 actinic 36 watts.
Total 144 watts.
This lighting scheme is currently growing out some Monti Cap, and some encrusting Monti very well. Would this suffice for what I am planning? I would not be opposed to running all four lights as 10K's if that would help.
<I'd be inclined to run all of the lights.>
I really like the closed top and don't want to do an upgrade to MH for fear of boiling the water. (oh yeah and the expense) However I will if I need to.
What do you think?
<Agreed...I really don't think that you do. In a relatively shallow aquarium, with good feeding and a healthy fish population, I think that you should be fine with the lighting regimen that you are proposing.>
Thank you again for the great answer the first time and I promise to send you pictures of this if\when it comes to being, but only if you promise to notify me when your book is done so I can obtain a copy. Best regards,
Henry
<Thanks for the kind words, and I'll certainly let everyone know when this project is finally completed! Do send those pics! Regards, Scott F.>

75-Gallon Marine Wish List – 09/07/07
Hi fish crew,
<<Howdy Rick>>
Believe me, I've done hours of reading and research to come up with my "wish list" for the 75 gallon (30 gallon sump - DSB & Gracilaria) I'm presently setting up (AquaC EV120 skimmer c/w 100mg/h ozone "potential").
<<Very good to know>>
Every time I think I have my list figured out, I read an "experience" from someone with a very similar situation that didn't quite work out (of course knowing there are never guarantees).
<<Indeed>>
Therefore, I'll throw the list to you hoping for some feedback.
<<Will be my pleasure...>>
Purple Tang,
<<I consider this size tank very marginal for this fish>>
Cherub Pygmy Angel,
<<A good/hardy choice>>
(2) Ocellaris Clowns (hoping to host with a rose or maroon quadricolor),
<<Mmm...if planning to keep an anemone, this system should be modeled around this animal...i.e.- no sessile inverts, compatible/suitable fishes, exceptional water quality, etc.>>
and a Royal Gramma.
<<Another very good choice for this system/this size tank. Hmm...omit the Tang and the Clowns/Anemone (okay...about half your choices thus far [grin]) and you have the beginnings of a very nice “Atlantic” biotope system...though will take a bit more research to find/select a particular “niche” to replicate. Have you seen Richard Harker’s excellent article on replicating natural marine/reef habitats in the latest edition of Aquarium Fish International? (such articles should be required reading for all...in my opinion) If I may indulge for a moment... I believe the success of marine hobbyists would increase at a geometric rate if we would pay more attention to attempting to replicate actual/natural environments with the appropriate associated livestock, as opposed to stuffing everything that piques our interest in to a transparent box “chock-full” of rock>>
Couple Blue-Legged Hermits and maybe a small Fromia and a couple Cleaner Shrimp. Honestly, I'd prefer not to have the anemone, if I could get the clowns to host with an LPS...
<<Does happen, but is risky for the coral. The Clownfish’s attentions often cause damage to the fleshy tissue of the LPS from being abraded against sharp skeletal structures. If you decide upon a FO/FOWLR system, the Clownfish can be kept without any type of “host” organism quite well>>
I'd feel better with a few LPS in the tank as opposed to an anemone and another Cnidarian battling in only 75 gallons of space.
<<Am much in agreement>>
As always, your expertise is greatly appreciated,
<<Always happy to share my opinions...>>
Rick from Edmonton.
<<Regards, EricR from Columbia>>

New Reef Setup   9/4/07
Dear Friend,
<Howdy!>
I have gone through many of the FAQs and articles on the various areas concerned with a new setup at WWM.
However, I was unable to find a couple of items.
Please could you help me out with some details and advise.
<Advice? Sure>
I understand the effort you guys take to reply to tones of mails hence, sorry for the long mail in advance.
<No worries>
I plan to setup the following
Tank size: 5L X 2D X 2H using 12mm glass.
Volume should be around 120G?
<Closer to 140 before displacement by gear...>
Play sand mixed with beach sand 1.5" substrate.
Live rock only (no base rock) around 80-100Kgs
Biotope: Indian Ocean (Lakshadweep islands) with 2 boulders forming a 16" deep gorge around 2-4" wide. I like this idea but not fixated on it.
<I like it!>
A bit of LR rubble around the twin boulders and turtle/sea grass bed on the other side.
Boulders would be drilled LR mounted on PVC pipe (schedule 80) frame. (how can I fasten the PVC frame since my substrate is gonna be 1-2" only?)
<Will show or you can make deeper in the back where the rock is stacked? Do drill holes in the pipe to allow some water circulation>
Lights
2 Philips CFL 55W cool daylight straight pin (12 hours) and 2 Philips TL05-20W actinic (14 hours). They should be around 6500K I think?
<Sounds good>
1 lunar simulator http://www.fishbowl-innovations.com/product/moonComputer
<Nice>
Plan to replace in 10-12 months period.
Cooling:
I plan to use a 1/4 HP Hailea http://www.hailea.com/E-hailea/product-1/HC-300A.htm
Or a 1/5 HP Hailea http://www.hailea.com/E-hailea/product-1/HC-130A-1.htm
<Mmm, I would go with the 1/4>
Would it be better if I got a 1/10 HP unit and used it to complement the existing 1/20 unit?
<Mmm... for?>
The smaller one could be used to draw from 32C (max in summers) to 30C and the larger 1/10 can then reduce from 30C to 27C?
<Oh! I see... likely unnecessary... I would only use the larger horsepower unit.>
Which approach is better you feel?
<Not to use a back-up as such>
The JBJ Arctica stuff is gonna BREAK my budget :(
<Yes... plus the ongoing electrical consumption>
Am currently using the 1/20 HP version for my existing tank (80 Liters) from the last 4 months and its easily accommodating.
<Oh! Impressive>
Water movement:
I want to reduce pumps and the problems they bring along. Thus, I will use only 1 return pump and one chiller pump.
<Good. We are in agreement>
Plan to have one 5 Gal CSD on top of the tank (6" above tank lights). Design is tall model and should be around 15" tall.
This would get filled in by an Eheim 1060 external pump from the sump of 50Liters. Will this Eheim model be able to pump to around 6 feet height?
<Mmm, yes... the maximum head given is ten feet...>
Outlet is 2" PVC and inlet is 1.5" PVC.
<No need to be any larger than Eheim discharge plumbing diameter>
Overflow is 2". Is there any way I can reduce the micro bubbles?
<A collector arrangement with media in it to allow the bubbles to coalesce before going onward>
Plan to use marine plywood (12mm thickness?) with reinforced seams and entire inside surface coated with aquarium silicon after assembly to make the wood water proof.
<... I would NOT use Silicone for this purpose... Doesn't really adhere well to wood... Perhaps fiberglass cloth and resin... or other structural material other than wood>
This will be in a wooden cabinet with Styrofoam used to deaden noise. (Will this do? as noise IS a factor)
<Maybe>
I also plan to have either of the foll from the opposite side to create random currents against the surge.
<?>
a. Another similar surge on the opp side
b. Tunze Nano stream powerhead (on a timer running continuous during day to simulate stronger waves) at night only the surge fires. Maybe I could time this to match the lunar cycles?
<Perhaps>
Since the main reef structure is only a twin boulder which would be on the side, should I only use one surge blowing toward them?
<Should be fine>
Twin overflow drilled as 2" holes on the back of the tank with rigid PVC strainer and bulkhead (http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewItem~idproduct~FT1167.html ) connecting to flexible PVC tube.
<Mmm, okay>
Will it be a better idea to keep the overflows at different levels?
<Slightly, yes>
I plan to take a direct feed from the overflow to the refugium around a ¼" outlet from the overflow.
<Do take care not to run too much flow through the refugium itself...>
Filtration
50 Liters sump with skimmer (wonder if you could suggest any good but inexpensive one)
<Posted... likely either a AquaC or EuroReef...>
100 gm.s Carbon filtering changed once a month. Am planning to reduce the quantity of carbon to keep the iodine in but want the chemical warfare contained.
<Good idea. You've been reading...>
Will it be better to use the full ½ Kg bag only on weekends?
<Mmm, I'd leave in all the time... maybe overlap their replacement... 1/2 every month...>
No other filter m media will be used but, I will keep 2 chambers in mind while making the sump for future use :-)
Refugium:
I plan to use my current tank (80Liters excluding rock and sand) which is successfully running from last 4+ months as the refugium.
<Okay>
I plan to reduce the live rock from this from current 30Kgs to around 10Kgs with a DSB of 8".
The flow in.out of the refuge would be rather slow around 50LPH using a ½ Inch hole with a fine particle level strainer to keep the nutrients in.
Will this affect the pods etc? cause I occasionally want pods or plankton to reach the display as live food.
<Should be fine>
Critters would be 20 odd snails, Caulerpa, sea weed, and other macro algae. Maybe a few serpent stars?
<I'd leave out the stars... too likely to be too predatory>
Feeding plan:
Cyclops eeze, Ocean nutrition nano coral food 2 times a week with Selcon or RedSea coral vitamin.
Prime reef flakes daily http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewItem~idproduct~ON2155.html
Phytoplankton 2-3 times a week http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewItem~idproduct~EV2222.html
http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewItem~idproduct~TL3151.html
Shredded shrimp and or shellfish 2-3 times a week (from local fish store)
Is there any other good product I can get? (shipping would take time as I live in India)
<Try Spectrum pelleted foods... really... Completely nutritious and very palatable>
Livestock
I plan to keep low light demanding corals and inverts along with a few SMALL fishes.
Fish would not be more than 10. (Already have 2 A. perculas, 1 two color blenny, 1 firefish, 1 flame angel.
Couple of shrimp (already have 1 cleaner shrimp)
Based on the biotope,
Can you suggest some good corals? I understand the really cool ones are not photosynthetic and need to feed them. I think this should not be a problem as I do the same for my polyps, mushrooms and cup coral currently.
<I would take a look/see at the biotope (books, a dive trip or two) and make your own list of what you see in this microhabitat>
Can you suggest some good SMALL fish?
<Ditto>
I tried searching for stuff but was unable to get much on biotopes. Please do let me know if there is any URL or such which describes biotope examples.
<Have been diving across the other side of India and to the south in the Maldives... but not yet over to Lakshadweep islands... but would look at books, the Net... for ideas... Tools like Fishbase.org for ideas on what is there naturally>
Additives and Testing
Potassium iodate for iodine
Magnesium (what is the chemical component one uses for MG?)
<Most folks add some Epsom, MgSO4... Magnesium sulfate>
Calcium (using red sea Kalk)
For first 2-4 months, Weekly test of ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, phosphate, PH in addition to the items in additives.
Then reduce it to once a month slowly over period of 2 months.
Water changes would be once a month with 10% made from Taikong or red sea sea salt made and kept for 24 hours.
Cheers and thanks again
Ranjith
<Sounds like a very nice project indeed! Bob Fenner>

Re: New Reef Setup, biotope...    9/4/07
Hello Bob,
Thanks for the response.
<Welcome>
You mentioned " collector arrangement with media in"
<Yes... to aggregate the small bubbles...>
How do I do this in a surge? Will it not affect the surge power?
<Mmm, need to discharge the water from the surge underwater...>
Will it be in the surge box or in the display tank end of the siphon pipe?
<Neither likely here... if there are micro-bubbles in the water going into the surge bucket itself, you can add the collector/media at the discharge point there>
Also you mentioned to use fiberglass cloth and resin... or other structural material other than wood for the surge box.
<Sorry for the lack of clarity. What I mean/t is that IF you're using wood, I WOULD use fiberglass cloth and resin... OR if not using wood... for instance glass, you could use Silastic... the surge "bucket" can be fashioned of any chemically inert material>
Any idea what? Because fiberglass cloth or resin is probably something I would mostly not get in India easily :(
<Really? Well... a "polythene" (Polyethylene here) drum of some sort would do nicely>
I picked up some research material on the net that lists out the detailed names of the species found in Lakshadweep :))
Guess I will pick from that.
<Is a very nice place from what I've seen...>
I have tried to attach two images from a research done. Please glance at them. They are tables of the water parameters in the Lakshadweep taken in 2001.
One funny point I see in the research is that the reef temp is 29 to 31C on an average.
<Smokin' as they say in the west>
Can corals survive and flourish in this temp range? I do remember reading in some book "reef secrets" by a well known author that some places do indeed have this temp range.
If so, and I can afford to keep the temp at around 29 or 30, and then my need for a chiller is dramatically reduced.
<Mmm, not most species, well or long... 86 F. I'd make as the uppermost value... 30 C.>
Worst come worst I can use my existing one which as per the specs is *supposed* to support 220Liters and bringing temp down 10-12 degrees C.
<Sounds good>
Since summers reach 32-33 here, It should be able to bring down 500Liters (double its capacity) by 2-3 degrees C?? and I could use a couple of fans blowing across the surface also to reach the needed pull down??
Cheers
Ranjith
<Maybe... you might have to turn your lights off during the hottest weather. Bob Fenner>

Planning a Marine Biotope Aquarium  7/31/07
Hello,
<Hi there! Scott F. here today!>
Well, I've been thinking a lot about how I'm going to stock my tank and what changes I might have to make. Let's break it down.
<Sounds decidedly "M.C. Hammer- like"...LOL>
First, my current tank info. My tank is 86g (48"L x 16"W x 26"T). It has a 36g sump (30"L x 15.5"W x 18"T). I have about 2" of Arag-Alive! Fiji Pink sand in my tank, along with 125 lbs of Fiji LR.
<Nice looking substrate!>
Originally, I wanted a Fiji lagoon biotope setup. I planned to have a BTA, a pair of Maroon Clownfish, some Chlorodesmis fastigiata, and snails. I still want those things, but now I'm looking into more fish and coral.
<I'm falling in love, here!>
Now I'd like to have a pair of Maroon Clownfish (Premnas biaculeatus), a pair of Firefish (Nemateleotris magnifica), and 2-6 Citrinus Clown Gobies (Gobiodon citrinus), a BTA (Entacmaea quadricolor), Turtle Weed (Chlorodesmis fastigiata), some Acropora for the Clown Gobies, and maybe some bubble coral (Plerogyra sinuosa).
<Interesting mix!>
Is there a location/biotope where all of these species coexist?
<Good question. These fishes, inverts, and algae are found in a variety of Indo-Pacific locales. Even though many share overlapping distribution, they may not be found together in one spot, however. Consider the niches that each fish inhabits. The Firefish, for example, are found in the areas that you are interested in, but possibly at varying depths from say, the Clown Gobies. A great research tool for biotope geeks like us is the ichthyological resource fishbase.org. By searching a bit deeper on fishbase about a specific species of fish, you can find out diet, ecology, etc. And, of particular interest to me- you can find out the depths and locations that various type specimens were captured. Really interesting stuff when you are working on assembling a biotope system. Keep in mind, however, that there is no "rule" when assembling such a system. Sure, the goal is to create an assemblage of plants and animals from more-or-less the same ecological niche, but it IS open to some interpretation on the part of you, the hobbyist. You can create a system that is absolutely exact, with only animals and plants found in a specific location, depth, and situation. Or, you could assemble a system of animals from more-or-less the same region, but perhaps from slightly different depths or parts of the reef. You can go as hardcore as you'd like to go when doing this- that's the fun of the hobby! As always, practical considerations come into play: Mixing stinging cnidarians, such as anemones, in a smaller system with corals, is potentially problematic, and allelopathic issues can arise. Predatory fishes are simply going to eat their prey items, even if they are found together in the same niche! Compromise is required even when attempting to replicate a specific biotope.>
If so, how would I arrange my rocks to display that biotope?
<Try something a little different, such as a few low aggregations of rock with space in between, instead of the usual "rock walls" that are so pervasive in the hobby! Tear down the wall!!! Perhaps even one larger mound of rock, with a craggy, open structure, and sand areas all around, with some seagrasses or Fungiids sprinkled here and there on the substrate for interest. Or, if you are truly daring- no major rock structures at all...just a few pieces here and there on the sand. There are endless possibilities. I highly recommend looking at web sites catering to divers and dive resorts. many have pictures and virtual tours of the areas they serve, and you can get great inspiration from these pictures!>
Do any of those biotopes contain sand beds in which grow Oar Grass (Halophila ovalis) or Paddle Grass (Halophila decipiens)? I don't think sand beds get 2" deep in most biotopes, so I need a biotope that does.
<Man- you know how to hit my hot buttons here...There are many parts of the Indo-Pacific where you might fine seagrass beds adjacent to smaller reef structures. The beauty of Halophila is that you can keep it in a slightly more shallow sandbed than other seagrasses, such as Halodule or Thalassia. A depth of 2"-3" can work fine if it is properly enriched. There is some good information on this topic now. Do check out an article by friend and seagrass expert Sarah Lardizabal on these species in a back issue of Conscientious Aquarist on line from last year. She's got great info. on these plants, and can also be found on various hobby forums promoting macroalgae and seagrasses. She'll be at MACNA in Pittsburgh talking about seagrasses, which is sure to be interesting. I will be "on the road" this year at a few club events and at IMAC, promoting the biotope concept, too- and I do talk about seagrasses extensively in my presentation. The idea of keeping seagrasses is a relatively new area for hobbyists to explore, one that can rally be fun. In fact, the whole idea of marine biotope aquariums is a refreshing change from the usual "garden" assemblies that we see so often in the hobby. Dare to be different, and you can inspire others! Man, you're getting me excited when I hear about your biotope plans!>
Well, that's all I'm wondering at the moment.
<That's it? Sheesh.. Just kidding.>
If you have any pictures of the biotopes you suggest, I'd really like to see them for reference.
<Well, I assembled a personal collection of biotope pics, that I've saved on my computer for reference only, because many many of them are copyrighted material from photographers and researchers and cannot be reproduced without their permission. Nonetheless, lots of information and photos are free to look at on line, and you can find all sorts of interesting stuff. The big "idea" here is to look into resources other than hobby ones. Research websites, dive travel websites, and even some conservation websites have great pictures and information on various biotopes to study and geek out on (like I do!). Do some searches on Google, etc. of the region that you are trying to replicate...you'll find more stuff than you can imagine! Eventually, there will be hobby resources for this information- trust me!>
Thanks a whole lot for reading all of this.
<This will change, my friend, if I have anything to say about it!>
I hope you can answer most, if not all, of my questions.
<Well, maybe not all the answers- But I hope that I pointed you in the right direction to find a lot of cool information. It's out there.>
Have a nice day.
Sincerely, Random Aquarist
<And you do the same! Regards, Scott F.>

Stocking question, outer reef wall Pacific biotope   5/30/07
Hi All,
<Michael>
I've learned so much from your site. I've used it extensively in setting up my main tank, and the results have been very positive. I'm now ready to take another step.
I'm linking-up a 60 gallon tank to my existing 400 gallon system (640 including the sump). The existing system is a Pacific, fore reef biotype, and the new tank will be a deep, outer reef wall that is fed via a surface overflow from the main tank. The lighting on the new tank will be very subdued with a PAR of 150 at the top of the tank and 55 at the bottom. The tank will be aquascaped with a large central cave. My stocking plan includes the following:
Qty.
Common name, scientific name
4 Yellow assessor, Assessor flavissimus
<Mmm, no more than two here>
1 Longnose hawkfish, Oxycirrhites typus
1 Purple firefish, Nemateleotris decora
<I'd have two of these... much more natural behavior, enhanced survivability>
4 Filamented flasher wrasse, Paracheilinus filamentosus
<1 male...>
What are your thoughts on this plan? Is the stocking level appropriate?
<See above>
Would it be appropriate for the biotype I'm trying to represent? Would some other species be a better choice? Do you foresee any serious conflicts?
<Time for us (you and I) to go on out for a dive adventure... I strongly suggest this and/or a careful viewing of pix, kinetic images of the proposed biotope for input>
Thank you for your advice!
Regards,
Michael
<Bob Fenner, who is serious>

Small Shallow Water Bio-tope   2/4/07
Hello Crew,
<Hi...>
I am setting up a 55g SPS tank to act as a visually appealing grow out tank until I have the funds for a 240g that is still in the early planning stages.
<Ok.>
It is filled about 3/4 high with a lot of live rock, and has a 6" DSB. It has to be at least 120 lbs. of rock (got a good deal).
<A lot.......>
The filtration consists of an Aquaclear 110 (just for carbon), 4 Maxi-Jet 1200's, and an AquaC Remora on order.
<Cool.>
The lighting consists of 2 175w 10k AB's. I would like to keep 1 or 2 Tridacna crocea in the bottom of the tank attached to a piece of rock in the sand bed). I would keep the power heads high in the tank to avoid disturbing the clams, but would the undetectable nitrates and the amount of light at this level be less than desirable?
<Should be plenty of light for this size tank. Utilize water changes (weekly 10%) to control nutrients.>
Thanks, Jeff
<AdamJ.>

Clown Trigger in a FOWLR? III - 07/03/06 Words of Wisdom...
Eric,
<<Matt>>
Having "digested" your previous response, and having given consideration to the practicalities of "mixing" large predators with b'flies (in terms of water quality required, food types offered and regularity of feeding, and so on) I think it might be better (for me, not generally speaking) to stick with one or the other.
<<Intuitive of you...and would serve all fish keepers in "general" to make these considerations (and more) as well.  I strongly feel that keeping fishes (especially "difficult" species) becomes easier when they are kept in "natural" groupings, e.g. - not mixing fishes from different oceans, keeping fishes together from the same type environment or niche (high light levels vs. low light levels, shallow water vs. deep water, and with similar habits (active fast movers vs. slow deliberate feeders).  I'm not saying hobbyists can't be successful to the contrary, just that it's easier (on both the aquarist and the fishes) when the setting is more "natural" to the fishes>>
I have enough info to ponder the pros & cons of a lionfish only tank, hence my query will concentrate of a b'fly type system.
<<Okay>>
I have also discounted the idea of a trigger in the interest of being able to have a decent clean up crew (stars & snails mainly).
<<Mmm, do consider this...I have a 5" male Bluethroat trigger (Xanthichthys auromarginatus) in a large reef system.  He shares this tank with two species of Lysmata shrimp, serpent stars, Asterina starfish, Turbo, Cerith, and Nassarius snails...to my knowledge he has never touched any, or even shown an interest...though you'll notice I don't keep hermits so I don't know how he would react to these>>
I think the clean up crew is probably even more important to keep down levels of dissolved organics, as will the inclusion of a macro algae refugium (obviously skimmers, and LR etc will all be included).
<<Excellent>>
If I go for a b'fly set up, I would opt for a pair of Chaetodon semilarvatus, and hence I would probably opt for a Red Sea biotope, so I can keep the s.g. nice and high as recommended by Bob in the "Best B'flies from the red sea" article.
<<Indeed...I love biotope displays>>
In such a set up, realistically how many b'flies could I get in there?
<<Hmm...fewer than you would like <grin> >>
I was surprised by Bob's recommendation of allocating 20
gals per fish - at which rate I could put up to 9 b'flies in a 180.
<<A "generalized" statement no doubt...other factors to consider as well...adult size, temperament, etc.>>
I know this guideline should not be taken literally, so I tried to improvise and extrapolate a realistic stocking rate taking into account the species I am considering.
<<Ah, very good!>>
Hence, with the Semilarvatus being quite big I was counting
them as the equivalent of 2 fish each (i.e. Semilarvatus = 4 equivalent fish = allocation of 80 gals).
<<Mmm, a very subjective issue...but I would go with 120 gallons as a minimum for two of these fish>>
But that still allows for 5 more b'flies!
<<Mmm...>>
From the "The Best Butterflyfishes From the Red Sea" article, I chose 4 other species I like (in order of preference):
1 no. Chaetodon paucifasciatus
2 no. Heniochus intermedius
1 no. Chaetodon auriga auriga
My feeling is that this would be too many, and would not be very interesting color scheme (i.e. all yellow / black / white).
<<Agreed on the "too many", but the "color scheme" would likely not be much issue once you saw them in the display>>
Hence, my idea has evolved to part two of my question - could I keep a Maculosus angel, together with the pair of Semilarvatus, and a single Chaetodon paucifasciatus.  In Bob's book he recommends "at least 100 gallons of uncrowded habitat to themselves to fare well" for a Maculosus - so my
logic is:
2 no. C. semilarvatus       =    40 to 80 gallon allocation
1 no. P. maculosus          =    100 gallon allocation
1 no. C. paucifasciatus     =     20 gallon allocation
Total = 160 to 200 gallon allocation.
The system is a 180, and will be aquascaped so as to best suit the
inhabitants (pending your advice). Does this seem like a reasonable proposition?
<<Bob should correct me if I misinterpret, but "100 gallons of uncrowded habitat" reads to me as 100 gallons of open free swimming space, unhampered with by live rock, etc..  To me that would seem to say a 180 is just about right after "careful" aquascaping...but sans any other large fish like the Semilarvatus butterflies>>
The order of introduction (and size) would probably be: C. paucifasciatus probably a good 3", then the pair of
semilarvatus at 3"-4" medium size, then finally the maculosus as a baby 2" specimen.
<<Proper species selection aside, you'll do well to obtain all these species in the 3"-5" range...selecting your larger/smaller specimens within that range>>
Do you think this is a reasonable proposition?
<<I'm very hesitant about including the Maculosus angel with two Chaetodon semilarvatus in a 180...I would choose "one species or the other" as the prominent display fish, and build the display around/to suit that species>>
Would the inclusion of dither fish be a good idea? i.e. half a dozen green Chromis.
<<I think so, yes (the Blue-Green Chromis- Chromis viridis, to keep with the Red Sea theme)...will add some visual interest as well>>
I wouldn't be pushed either way about the Chromis, but if would benefit the general well being of the system, I would include them.
<<Won't hurt>>
Sorry for writing such a long email - but I wanted to give all the relevant info.
<<No worries mate...helps me to help you>>
Thanks again for your help.
Matt
<<Is my pleasure, EricR>>