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FAQs on the Combtooth Blenny
Disease/Health, Pests Related
Articles: True or Combtooth Blennies,
Ecsenius Blennies, Sabretooth
Blennies, Family Blenniidae/Tribe Nemophini,
Tube/Pike/Flag Blennies/Chaenopsidae,
Related FAQs: Combtooth
Blennies 1, Combtooth Blennies 2, Blenny
Identification, Blenny Behavior,
Blenny Compatibility, Blenny Selection,
Blenny Systems, Blenny Feeding,
Blenny Reproduction, Ecsenius
Blennies, Saber-Tooth Blennies,
Blennioids & their Relatives,
Tube/Pike/Flag Blennies/Chaenopsidae, | 
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Blenny Question, hlth.
3/16/2009
Hello,
<Hi there>
My name is Nathan. I have 3 saltwater tanks including a seahorse tank.
In one of my tanks which is 25 gallon I have a Combtooth blenny.
<Mmm, what species? Some of the commonly offered ones need more space
than this>
Along with the blenny is a yellow clown goby,
<Usually need SPS to survive... a Gobiodon sp?>
royal Gramma, peppermint shrimp and mushroom corals. The tank is 9
months old and water quality is good. Temp. is 78-80 and SG is 1.024. I
do an 15% water change every 2 weeks. I recently noticed that the blenny
is starting to look boated or pregnant. I have had the fish 5 months now
so I don't think it is. I have been researching and trying to figure out what is wrong. I am wondering if it is
constipation? I feed that tank with Omega flakes mixed with Spirulina
flakes once or twice a day small portions at a time. Sometimes thawed
freshwater copepods. He also helps by eating a lot of the algae. He is
the "hog" of the tank when it comes to feeding. Is their a way to help
him with the constipation?
<Can be... foods that act as laxatives (e.g. Artemia)... the careful use
of Epsom Salt...>
The swelling seemed to happen over a course of 2 days. Should I fast the
tank for a few days?
<A good idea>
I have heard about using Epsom salt but wasn't sure if it is safe.
<Can be... see WWM re>
Thank you for your time and help. You have such a helpful website.
Best Regards,
Nathan
<Just short of time today. Cheers, Bob Fenner>
Re: Red-Lipped
Blenny Follow Up 5/2/08 Just to let you know, I've
had the Red-Lipped Blenny in a treatment tank with Coppersafe for the
past week and today I noticed his breathing had returned to normal
(along with his appetite). I will continue treatment for 3 more weeks
and then change all the water and leave him in the QT for 2 more weeks
before returning him to the tank. Thanks for all the help. Cory,
Miami <Okay... please do include prev. corr. with your mail... BobF>
Spines In Bicolor Blenny's Mouth/Nose – 03/30/08 Hi crew,
<<Hello, Erin>> Thank you in advance for your time taken
answering my question. <<Quite welcome>> I'm not sure if tank
parameters are really necessary for this question but just in case:
92 gal w/29 gal sump temp: 78-80, Nitrite=0, Nitrate=2,
Calcium=380ppm, Ammonia=0, pH=8.3. During feeding this evening, I
looked at my bicolor blenny and it had very small clear spines in
it's nose/mouth area. <<Mmm, yes, I see these>> The spines are
clear and maybe .5-1mm long all radiating out from the top of the
mouth area. I had not looked at the blenny up close previous to this
moment all day so, who knows when they arrived there. The food I fed
tonight was nothing new- a mix of prawn roe (Nutra Mar Ova brand),
and a homemade frozen mixture consisting of raw: squid, octopus,
mussel, Ogo algae, krill, and shrimp... all soaked in Selcon.
<<Excellent>> The blenny did appear to be breathing heavier right
when I noticed the spines but the breathing appears more normal now
30 minutes later. Other tank mates and organisms include: royal
Gramma, yellow clown goby, yellow watchman goby, peppermint shrimp,
2 mandarin dragonets (I have a refugium with a very abundant copepod
culture and about 130lb of live rock in the tank- they're plump and
spawning weekly+), <<Neat!>> Pacific cleaner shrimp, 12
blue-legged hermits, 20ish snails, green bubble tip anemone,
<<Mmm…and a danger to the dragonets/other sessile inverts>> Kenya
tree, pom pom xenia, leather coral, zoos, orange Montipora,
Pocillopora, green star polyps, Halimeda and a Chaeto ball that is
cycled between refugium and display as a copepod buffet for the
mandarins. <<Ah…cool idea>> My first thought were spicules of
some sort from one of the small ball sponges around the tank (that
have showed up on the live rock). <<Doubtful>> Although, just
a second ago it occurred to me that I just put the Chaeto ball in
the display tank from the refugium and it probably had a few
bristleworms in it. <<Bingo! This is my guess as to what these
are/has happened>> I'm wondering if my very curious Bicolored
blenny decided to pick at the bristleworm and now has the tiny
glass-like spines in its nose?? <<Seems very likely, yes>>
Also, is the maze-like clear area on it's gills normal (see pic)?
<<Not sure…is possibly a stress reaction to the spines in its face>>
Is there anything that I can/should do for the little guy? <<Best
to leave it be>> Will these spines eventually fall out?
<<Won’t “fall out”…but should dissolve away. Just as they would do
if they were in “your” flesh>> I'm afraid that they will affect
his eating as they are right at the mouth. <<Maybe, briefly…but
the issue should resolve itself within a couple days. The Blenny
will likely be fine>> Thanks again for any advice you give. –Erin
<<Happy to share. EricR>> | 
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A bit of a concern about a blenny... Nemophini beh. – 10/18/07
Dear WWM crew, <Jon> I just acquired a Yellowtail Fangblenny
(*Meiacanthus atrodorsalis) and I have him in quarantine along with two
fairy wrasses and two tomato clowns. <Mmm, better to not have so much
jammed together during these processes> The problem is that he is
continuously just laying around. He'll swim around for a bit at food
time and maybe take a flake or a pellet or two (or sometimes a Mysid
shrimp) but then he just goes back to hiding or just laying in the
corner. Now, if I touch him, he'll dart out and swim a bit (and he
doesn't look stressed or faded or anything). <Is stressed... and this
behavior is to be expected under the circumstances... Will "brighten up"
behaviorally when moved to the main display> Nitrates, nitrites, and
ammonia are all 0. SPG is 1.025 and I use water from my established (and
now crypt free) tank that is already temperature and PH adjusted to
match the quarantine tank. <Good> I've noticed no signs of crypt
on the atrodorsalis or on any of the other fish in the tank (the tomato
clowns were in the quarantine for 2 weeks prior and showed no signs of
crypt). Granted, it's only been 2 days, but I've read that most blennies
and fairy wrasses are fairly crypt resistant and that the fairy wrasses
should usually just be dipped and placed in the main tank since they are
a bit fragile in quarantine. <Agreed> Just a bit unsure of what to
do since the atrodorsalis was swimming readily in his tank (The Hidden
Reef in PA) but seems so lethargic since he's been placed into my tank.
I'm just wondering if I should either give him his own quarantine tank
would even be a better option than leaving him in his (admittedly)
crowded quarantine tank. - Jon <I would wait, move the fish in
time... to the main display. Bob Fenner>
Re: A bit of a concern about a blenny 10/19/07 Bob, quick
recap: Both fairy wrasses and the blenny looked really mediocre to
bad today. <Yikes...> I made a temp/pH adjusted dip and quickly
dipped each. <Good> The blenny lasted around 6 minutes before he
had to be removed. <Something going very sideways...> Each fairy
wrasse only lasted about 3 minutes before they looked bent and bad
before I had to remove them. Now all 3 fish are in the main tank
along with a Kole Tang who was already quarantined for 3 weeks with no
ill effect. <Good> I would've much rather left the wrasses and
blenny in quarantine, but as I've said (and you've agreed with) is that
the wrasses are pretty fragile and they just did not do well in
quarantine. I've always heard they are fairly crypt resistant in the
first place, but I do hope that my dip would've taken off anything that
I didn't notice in the tank yet. - Jon <You made the right
moves... at least... what I would have done as well. BobF>
Re: A bit of a concern about a blenny, the pet-fish store
experience/mass merchandisers included 10/20/07 Bob,
<Jon> I think my problem with the dip is that I set it up very...
quickly. Usually, when I've dipped, I've set it up about 4 nights
before -- aerated, heated, multiple pH testings (and I usually use a
package of the 8.0 pH adjuster + some baking soda to perfectly match my
tank pH). <Good to be thorough, meticulous here> But yeah,
everyone looks good today. The one fairy wrasse, a Lubbock's Fairy
Wrasse (Cirrhilabrus lubbocki), is one of the shiest fish I've ever
seen! He was shy in the store, but besides that he looked great. Same in
my tank. He's got tons of personality and pops out quick to eat food.
Just likes to scuttle back to cover quickly. I don't know what species
the other is and I'm going to try and get an up close shot of him to
send to you guys. He's a fairly drab purple color with a little bit of
light green around his fin area. <Cirrhilabrus spp. live in large
shoals by and large in the wild... and are quite active as such... in
captivity, in small numbers, little volumes, quite different> This is
also way off topic, but I just started a job at Petco (Howell, NJ). I
know that you guys generally hate the way fish are kept there and all,
<Mmm, for the record, I worked at/for Petco in the early nineties, as a
consultant, then a buyer... helped with arranging the co.s early entry
into livestock... It is my qualified opinion that each store, indeed
experience is largely a measure of the individuals involved. Much of the
gear that the personnel are charged with is deficient IMO, and the
system for livestock ordering... Is NOT sustainable... but the very gist
of what one "gets" from involvement with mass merchandiser LFSs is
identical with that of independents... Id est, "it" all comes down to
the knowledge, ability, personal skills and desires of the INDIVIDUALS
involved... Hotay, off da soap box... for now> and I agree for the
most part, but I've noticed that it's better than I expected. And at
least I've been trying to persuade salt and fresh customers alike to
quarantine and use salt/fresh dips before placement as well.
<Excellent! Good for you... us... the planet> I like to think that
I'm making a bit of difference. I think I've given out Wet Web's address
about 30 times to various customers (and a few have come back and
mentioned just how great of a site it really is). <Ahhh... the
pleasure> Thanks again for the help! - Jon <Welcome my/our
friend. Life to you. Bob Fenner>
Re: Blenny Death – 07/19/07 Thank you for your response. We set
up the tank in March 2006 and started adding fish 3 months after. Here
is the list of fish we had in the tank and also we have some mushrooms
and polyps and about 150 pounds of live rock. The sump below is filled
with live rock as well with 2 Detritivore kits. In addition to the pump
we have two maxi jet 1200 powerheads on each corner of the tank, protein
skimmer and we top off the water 1 gallon per day with RODI water. We
have not introduced new fish to the tank in about 8 months. The tank was
doing great until about 2 weeks ago when we noticed the Blenny gone. The
Mushrooms and Polyps are doing fine still but we lost the following
fish: Blenny Flame Angel 4 Damsels Survivors so far (I'm not
sure about the 2 peppermint shrimp?) Foxface Large Tang Small
Clown 1 very small Damsel 2 Scarlet Shrimp I feed the fish 1
cube of frozen brine or marine cuisine every other day and some flake
food the other days, also some pellets and was told I may be feeding
them too many pellets because they were found in the sump and were not
eaten by the fish. We recently did add a small fan 3 months ago
which is controlled when the lights go on as to make sure the lighting
during summer did not heat the tank too much. The temperature stays
stable due to the air conditioning in the office set at a certain degree
and I would think if the tank overheated the corals would have suffered.
I know it could be a number of things and it's sometimes impossible to
figure out what went wrong but any thing you can think of would be
helpful. Thanks for your help! >>>Hello again Nancy, One thing
really jumps out at me, and that is that your tank, before your fish
deaths, was WAY overstocked. About 5 fish the size of your flame angel
is the most you should be thinking about for a tank this size. That is,
if you want stability and a reasonable margin for error. Under the
circumstances, I'm not surprised you're having some issues quite
frankly. There are many things that can kill a fish, and so many in such
tight quarters will quickly exacerbate any small problem that rears it's
head. Assuming the "large tang" and Foxface remain, that really only
leaves room for maybe two other small fish. Remember all that water that
is displaced by that rock! After all is said and done, you have maybe 65
gallons of water in your tank. I have a feeling that you've had a
low-level C. irritans infestation in your tan for quite some time,
probably due to improper quarantine procedure, or complete lack thereof.
Organic wastes have built up in the tank, and your fish began to succumb
to the parasite. Course of action at this point, do NOT add any fish
for at least 4 months. Let things settle down, and do some large water
changes. Frankly, if nothing else dies, you'll have a fully stocked
tank. Feel free to ask more questions. Jim<<<
Quarantine? 3/10/07 Dear WWM Crew, <Jan> As always,
thanks for all of your help!! It is a great comfort to be able to reach
out to you folks and get such great advice and help! <Yes> We
have a 72G reef tank with about 80 lbs. of LR. Our water parameters are
(Temp=77deg F, Sg=1.025, pH=8.3, Ca=380ppm, Mg=1290ppm, dKH=6.75,
Ammonia & Nitrite=0ppm, NO3= 5ppm). The tank was set up and cycled last
May. For about the last six months our live stock
has consisted of a pair of clowns (A. ocellaris), a fat mandarin (S.
splendidus), and a school of 9 Chromis viridis. 15 various corals, 2
tube worms (Protula magnifica) 2 turbo snails and some (+/- 8) blue
legged hermit crabs. In addition to this we have 3 peppermint shrimp
(L. wurdemanni) & 2 fire shrimp (L. debelius) and 2 common cleaner
shrimp (L. amboinensis). We have 3 questions. 1. Our LFS has
been holding a Hawaiian Yellow Tang (Z. flavescens) for us for the last
2 weeks in their "quarantine" tank with water dosed with
copper. However, while the Tang has been alone in this tank, the tank
is connected to other tanks running on the same water. Should we
quarantine this fish? If so, for the full month or just two weeks?
<I would quarantine this fish, or at the very least run it through a
prophylactic FW dip/bath... detailed on... WWM> 2. We are also
thinking of adding a Lawnmower Blenny (S. fasciatus) as our tank has
plenty of algae on the LR. Given this fishes need to graze algae,
should it be quarantined? If so, for how long? <I would quarantine
this species for two weeks... some smaller, likely-to-starve Blennioids
for a shorter duration> 3. Also, concerning the Blenny & Tang, given
the size of our tank and the current livestock listed above, do you see
any potential problems with adding either or both of these fish?
<Mmm, no... not really... The fifteen species of corals here (in a 72
nominal gallon volume) should not be added to though... as they are
likely "used" to each other... will/would react to new cnidarian life
adversely> Thanks!! Jan & Ellen <Welcome. Bob
Fenner> Blenny Quarantine? - 5/25/2006
Today I received an Orange Spotted Blenny (Istiblennius chrysospilos)
from an online retailer. After a two hour acclimation period I
currently have him in quarantine. He is the first fish I have purchased
for my new 90 gallon FOWLR tank that has been fishless for four months
now, only a dozen snails, two cleaner shrimp and two porcelain crabs.
<<OK.>> Everything seems to be going great, I have thousands of
pods, about a dozen peanut worms, small pink bristleworms and numerous
other life forms including probably 6 or 7 different kinds of
macroalgae. I have 60 lbs. of live rock, a 20 gallon sump with AquaC
UrchinPro protein skimmer, a 10 gallon refugium and at least 18X
turnover rate through a closed loop system plus the sump return.
<<Sounds good so far.>> Anyway, I was prepared to keep him
quarantined for what I have read is a three week standard baring any
difficulties. But after reading one of the earlier FAQ's on blenny
selection, Bob states blennies need a "brief quarantine." I was
wondering what brief meant. <<At least a week in my opinion.>>
The blenny seems healthy; small, but not skinny. He doesn't appear
sick, just scared and trying to cope with his new environment. I have
only tried once to feed him some frozen herbivore medley which he didn't
seem interested in (I have about ten different offerings prepared for
him waiting to try out). Should I continue with the three week
quarantine whether he eats or not or should I move him in a couple of
days to the plentiful display tank if he doesn't appear interested in
what I am offering? <<If he eats nothing, move him sooner, but if he
accepts some of your offerings, push it longer than a few days.>>
Thanks again.....y'all are wonderful with your insightful
advice. Jonathan <<Glad to help. Lisa.>> Very Stressed Midas
Blenny 4/1/06 Hi, <Hi there, Leslie here with you
this morning.> I asked this on wetwebfotos and got no responses.
I got a Midas Blenny from what I think is a reliable source (lots of
reviews), also when everything arrived it was beautifully packed.
Everything else is fine and in good condition (all inverts). However,
the Blenny is not so ok. I don't think it is sick, but it is hiding
constantly. I put the Blenny in QT. It is not a stripped down QT, has
some rock and sand. Anyway, the Blenny has been hiding and has been
seen a couple times, not moving much and very mottled in color.
<These fish spend quite a bit of time perched between rocks usually with
their heads peeking out, seeming quite alert and interested in their
environment.>I understand that is a stress signal. <It can be a sign
of stress but that is also how they look when they settle in for the
night. It is a form of camouflage. He probably is not feeling safe in
his new environment just yet.> (Actually if I didn't know what they
really look like I would say it is quite pretty. Oh well.) Anyway, I
want to know what I can do (if anything) to help my fish. I added a few
more hiding places. Am planning on a water change tomorrow (1-2 gals)
and changing the carbon. Also lowering the water level a little-- I am
using a power filter so a little lower water level will cause a bit more
water movement (I think). <Yes it should, even better would be a
small power head placed at the surface so that the return flows
horizontally across the water surface causing a nice ripple effect.>
Anything else I could do for the fish? <I think you came up with a
great plan. If possible limiting the activity around the tank for a
while until your fish settles in may help. Your new fish probably just
needs little time to adjust to it’s new home.> Should I not do any of
the above? <No. It all sounds just fine.> My main tank is
looking much better btw!! <That’s great news!!> Thanks, des
<You’re most welcome, best of luck with your new blenny. Leslie>
Blenny on The Decline? 12/15/05 Hello Mr. Fenner,
<Scott F. in today!> Huge fan of the site and I wasted lots of time
and money before learning so much on WetWeb. My issue involves my
Sailfin Blenny who appears to be struggling for survival now. Very fast
respirations (with mouth open) and not moving too much, but active
enough to move fast when approaching it. He has a big belly but that's
not anything new. I do 10% water changes weekly - the tank is a 29
gallon. The other fish appear happy and are eating well. I have to
honestly say, I've rarely seen the Blenny eat but I've had him for 8
months. I have roughly 35 lbs of Walt Smith Fiji Live Rock which will
never allow me to catch this fish for quarantine/treatment. Would you
have any recommendations here? Is he on his way out? He's been like
this for about 3-5 days. PH 8.2 SPG 1.024. Thanks, Phil
<Well, Phil- it's awful hard to be certain what the problem could be.
You could be looking at anything from a parasitic illness (such as the
dreaded Amyloodinium-"Marine Velvet") to some type of poisoning.
Blennies are a bit sensitive to water quality, and can be the proverbial
"Canary in the coalmine", as far as water quality issues are concerned,
often being among the first fishes in a community tank to display
distress. On the other hand, if it is a disease, you could be looking at
a situation where you may have to dismantle the tank for treatment. I'd
continue to observe the fish carefully, monitor water quality
(particularly ammonia and nitrite) carefully, and take action as needed.
Attempt to get him to eat food, if possible. I cannot give you any more
detailed advice than that without actually seeing the fish. If nothing
else, just consider the possibilities and proceed carefully. By all
means, don't treat in the display tank, if ti comes to that! Good luck!
Regards, Scott F.> Stringy blenny 9/19.5/05 I'm
writing about my 46 gallon bow...FOWLR Had a little Cyano, so I did
water changes 10 percent every 5 days (looking better). tank
parameters 0 - nitrite, ammonia, ph - 8.2, nitrates - 20 (ongoing tank
para) tank inhabitants: bi-color blenny, black-line blenny, molly
miller blenny, 2 percula clowns, yellow goby, pygmy angel, 2 cleaner
shrimp. Same fish stock for a while....all fish QT'd going in....
Here's my problem, for the past 2 weeks, my molly miller blenny has kind
of "stringy" material on him, comes and goes...doesn't look like
ick....is eating like a pig - (vitamin enriched pellet and frozen
w/garlic) (as usual). It has been suggested to me (by my LFS) that he
may be shedding his slime coat and getting debris stuck to him (he's
around the rocks) but I've had him a while and never noticed this
before. All my blenny's scratch now and then...but I know this is
normal behavior... <Yes> I've got a qt set up....a fresh dip
going....just in case....but just keeping an eye on it for now...
BUT....have you ever seen a "stringy" blenny? <Yes... sometimes
these "strings" are copepod parasites... can be treated with Clout,
other compounds with anti-arthropod activity. Bob Fenner> Re:
Stringy blenny 9/20/05 Bob, <Lisa> Appreciate your
extensive knowledge... but I've had him a while...several months...
starting to think it is ich... <... Crypt doesn't look "stringy">
he looked pretty bad the other morning... fed him well (and he ate like
a pig), FW dipped, put in 10 gallon qt...looks much better (still
feeding well). Color looks good but still may not be 100%..may fw dip
again tomorrow if needed. Is there any chance that some blennies sleep
and secrete a mucus like some other fish? <Yes... all
fish are slimy... blennies more than most> My black line looks a bit
"salted" around his head... ich I've seen, looks bigger than that (yet
velvet takes it's course much quicker.. <... environmental...>
speaking from experience). He's a bit strange, anyhow, when he sleeps
it is in the tank corners or against the rocks and ALWAYS loses
color. Incredibly interesting fish looks dead when sleeping but it is
in his nature...I wonder if all black-line blennies do this? <I
do think so... helps them evade predators to "blend in"> Had mine
for about 6 months and he always has..... If it is ich, <Not ich...>
it is a far less aggressive case than I've dealt with in the past. This
has been going on for 2 weeks....no losses.... Here's the question
of the day: Do cleaner shrimp not service certain fish? Seems some
do not have that "relationship".... <Yes... both parties
must be willing> What concerns me, is the black-line is sleeping in
a different place.... tomorrow, I will buy another AquaClear filter
put it on my 30g (filled with tank water from my other "ich free" tank
and a powerhead for now) yet use one of my sponges from existing
tank. <... would move parasites...> I will then fw dip all the
fish. Put the black line in with the molly miller in the 10g qt, and
the rest ( 2 percula clowns, pygmy angel, yellow clown goby,
bi-color blenny) in the 30g with the cleaner shrimp (too many to qt
in a small tank, and the molly miller doesn't care for the cleaners) and
do continuous water changes from my ich free tank to vacuum up any
potential spores.... and fresh dip as needed....I will not medicate,
since all fish involved are sensitive.. except the clowns that seem fine
(unless it gets worst.. everyone is feeding well) yet put my 2
cleaners in the 30g. Good plan? Or am I over-reacting? Would you
wait and observe longer? <I'd be looking for root cause/s... making
large water changes, using chemical filtrants... looking into a larger
system, better filtration. Bob Fenner> Re: Stringy blenny
9/24/05 Bob, <Lisa> I am now going to quote from your
fantastic book, "Sometimes the treatment is worst than the disease
itself...." (Or that which we think is a disease) because I have
done nothing but observe my main tank and do water changes daily.
<Wish I had insisted on the word "often", "more often" in place of
"Sometimes"> I forgot to mention, I do have a Knop skimmer, <...
wish Daniel, their previous distributor would not have allowed the name
to be applied to these... they're bunk, not made by the Germans (but by
a U.S....)> aqua clear 300, and powerhead (which I increased the
circulation). As tempted as I was to pull them all (because the
bi-color blenny was scratching the bottom more than usual and
sleeping in the corner by the heater) I did not. I now think he is
happily out more because he doesn't compete with the molly miller and
sleeps by the heater against his reflection and to keep an eye out
for more food during feeding time.... All have continued to eat...no
losses at all. <Good> My molly miller is looking great in qt
(after 2 fw dips and I vacuum the bottom twice daily) going to add
him to my other tank in a few weeks...I think it was just too many
blennies in the tank he was in - too stressful for them all.
<Agreed> I am still running my 30g empty tank in tandem, in the
event this does turn out to be something....vacuuming the bottom and
filling with water from my other tank. Doesn't hurt to have it going...
<Good planning> I'm going to make another donation to your site, as
I hope all do who get such expert advice. <Oooh, we do put the money
(from sponsors, donors, book sales...) to good use... Mainly paying our
content providers, editors of our online zine, getting folks scuba
certified, paying for occasional computer upgrades, travel to
conferences, speakers reimbursements to clubs...> As much as I love
the hobby, I am starting to wonder if it is just too stressful....
<Heeee! It is relaxing... to folks who don't own them!> Regards,
Bob, you are the best! <Don't know about this... but thank you. Bob
Fenner> Sick Lawnmower blenny Hi every one. I have a
blenny that is starting scratching quite often over the past two
days and is starting to have his tail fin rot a bit on the outer
edges. He has a fantastic appetite and eats more than his fair
share. I feed him Nori, TetraMin flakes, Formula one and often
parts of my finger if it happens to hit the water. The blenny is in
a 55 gal tank with a few other fish. The only other fish to show
signs is a purple backed Pseudochromis (scratching). I have had this
tank for about two weeks now but have no test kits other than
salinity and pH, 1.024 and PH 8.2. Getting this tank was not planned
but a last moment thing when and friends co-worker had to leave
town, as such i can not afford everything i need at once. The tank
was cycled when i got it, though the move was very hard on the
fish and the existing bio filtration is not very good at all. The
condition of the fish when i got them was more than horrible; they
were all under fed and seemingly bleached of all color. The fish all
seemed like they would do fine and then the blenny started
acting up. I’m going to buy a full test kit soon but it will take
days to get to my house. What should i do in the mean time?
Thank you. <Perhaps lower your specific gravity a few thousandths...
this will arrest, stall proliferation of microbes that may be involved
here, stir your fishes to produce a bit more body mucus... In the
meanwhile, please take the time to read on WWM re marine parasitic
disease. Bob Fenner> Mysterious Death Hello, I have one
question: Why my SALARIAS FASCIATUS died? Everything was ok, but for few
days his stomach was VERY BIG.<Could have been bloat> I thought that he
just ate too much but today i saw him behind the rocks... What cause
that?<Also could be a hitchhiker in the LR that killed him> My water
par, are great. In tank there was only him and Foxface. Please tell me
why he died...<I can not give you a definite answer here all I can do is
give you possibilities.> BTW: I can't take him out of the tank,
will my cleaner shrimps ate him?<Probably not...you need to take this
fish out post haste. It will pollute your water.> BTW2: I'm going
to put Zebrasoma flavescens to the tank. Will be any problems with my
Foxface (it's 55 gal, but will be 195).Will they fight? <I Have seen
people do this before...normally it works but sometimes it doesn't. If
it were me I would purchase a purple tang or a red sea sailfin tang
because of the color difference.> THX guys <No prob, IanB>
Sick Lawnmower Blenny 8/1/04 I need your assistance. My
(female) lawnmower blenny seems ill to me. She seems less active then
normal and she is eating but not at the same rate she used to. I had
the manager of the fish store stop by to take a look at her and he said
she was losing some color on her back but should be ok.
<hmmm... based on these symptoms, there's not much to go on here (and it
does not sound like much/any problem> I am really concerned. I
checked my water parameters yesterday and they were fine, I also took a
sample into the fish store to have them test and they said the
parameters were fine also. I really would like some suggestions on how
to help her. I absolutely adore this little creature. Thanks in
advance, Karen <the best way to stimulate fishes is a series of
hearty water changes and improving the diet. Let me suggest that you do
at least three 25% water changes in the next 2-3 week and add some Dick
Boyd's Vita-Chem (for vitamins of course) and Selcon (for HUFAs) to the
diet (usually soaking the thawed frozen foods... thaw and drain first,
then add the supplements before feeding to fishes). No worries :)
Anthony> Sick Lawnmower Blenny III 8/2/04 Thank
you for your response. I added some "Kent Garlic Supreme" to the food
yesterday and did a partial water change today. <very good>
I have also purchased and added to the food "Kent Zoe Marine". <I
have little regard for Kent products personally... but this may be
helpful indeed> She, the lawnmower blenny, seems to be doing better
today. <the water change gets the credit I assure you> We were
also wondering if the moon light could be disturbing her at night ,
could it be affecting her rest? <no more than the moon on a reef
<G>> We turned the moon light off when we went to bed last night and
she seemed to do better this morning.. Thanks again. Karen <you
fuss/worry too much Karen... and I say that affably. Relax my friend...
it is a relaxing hobby. Fussing with your tank and fishes in the
long run makes things worse. Allow the system to find a groove and
run a more natural course without frequent knee-jerk reactions. kindly,
Anthony> Sick blenny Mr. Fenner, What would we do
without you? <I fear that some people would lose livestock, perhaps
give up on this wonderful hobby altogether... and then who would I have
to share with?> My red lipped blenny is sick. He is in a 20 gallon
quarantine tank and has been in there since we got him at the end of
Feb. Cannot put him into the main because we are keeping that fallow
due to ich. There is also a blue damsel in the 20. We haven't put
anything different or new into the tank The blenny started to look
dirty a couple of days ago, yesterday he looked worse and was acting
very shy which is unusual, today he is even worse. He doesn't raise his
fins or open his back fin and now instead of dirty he looks dark from
his head down to his middle. Oh, and he flicks. Yesterday the water
read: Ammonia-0-.25, Alk-3.6, Nitrite-0, ph-8.6. For the Nitrates I did
both tests one read 20(with the powder reagent) and the other 0. Then
I changed out about 3 gallons of water. What is it and what can I do?
Thank you, Mercedes <Since February? I would move it/them to your
main tank... add a biological cleaner, and hope for the best. Bob
Fenner> Re: sick blenny Mr. Fenner, I am so grateful for
your quick response! Thank you. A couple of weeks ago, we figured we
should be done with the ich so we put our coral beauty in the main
and he got ich in two days and died shortly thereafter, so we have
quite awhile to go before we can add anything. Now what? Is there
anything I can do for him? <About the best would be a clean,
cured live rock system to place it in... barring this, if you can find
cured live rock to put in the quarantine tank... this might save the
day.> I tested the water and all the readings are the same as before
I changed the water out. I am a little confused about the Nitrates
reading. Thanks again, Mercedes <It may be that some of your
reagents are old/damaged... I would do a third test if two are not in
close agreement and then assume the worst and believe the two highest.
Bob Fenner> Pregnant Blenny??? Hi bob quick question for
you, <Anthony Calfo here... Bob is outside trying to hitchhike his
way to Honolulu for the Pro Bowl... someone really should tell him that
you can't get there by car> I have a bicolor blenny that I just
noticed has a somewhat distended belly with visible lumps. Now I've had
the fish for over 2 months, so I don't think its about to lay eggs or
have babies, <agreed> but I was curious if it may be infected with
some disease. I noticed him looking full yesterday after feeding it some
Mysis shrimp, but today its bigger and lumpy. any idea what it might be?
Thanks! David <David...fast the creature/tank for several days to see
if the distension subsides (we want to see if the "plumbing" is
working). You might even add a TBN of Epsom salt (magnesium sulfate) per
10 gall of tank water as a laxative (it is invert safe and in your food
and sea salt as well) in case blockage/constipation were a concern. This
occurs with greedy fish that gulp food to much too fast (particularly
dry foods). Let us know if this helps. Kindly, Anthony> David Schaer
Re: Pregnant Blenny??? yea, greedy constipated fish is what I
think it was, the blockage seems to have cleared by today, it just look
really weird yesterday <not at all uncommon> now I just have to
keep an eye on my rusty angel who is developing pop-eye. <one eye on
one fish is usually mechanical damage (a bump from a startle/spook into
the glass or rocks). The Epsom salt ironically will help purge the fluid
from behind the swelling eye (Magnesium Sulfate at 1 TBN per 10 gallons
one time)> A question on that, my LFS which much to my chagrin
happens to be PetCo, gets their fish from a rather reputable
wholesaler in NJ, so I order fish from them and try to get it in my tank
before they can put them in theirs. <wise> Unfortunately the Rusty
I picked up last week, spent a few hours in their tanks before I picked
it up and its developing pop-eye, <not contagious really unless
overall conditions are so unsanitary> even though my tank conditions
are very optimal, no nitrites, or nitrates. <again...likely
mechanical damage but if both eyes swell...may be pathogenic and to be
treated like bacterial infection> Now I read most of the pop-eye FAQs
last night, and my question is this, they had an angel in their set
up with pop-eye so I was wondering what the chances are that is a
contagious pop eye and not a injury, if it is one that the fish caught
in their tanks, do I treat it the same way, just let it go away on its
own, and is there any additives, vitamin wise, that I should add to the
tank to help it cure up? Thanks!! David <Epsom salt and optimum diet
for starters...if you don't see stabilization or improvement in 3 days,
begin meds in quarantine. Anthony> Ailing Lawnmower Blenny
Good morning one and all. I have a quick question regarding my
Lawnmower Blenny. He started off looking good and fat and is now
slowly becoming more thin. There is still a predominance of hair
algae in the tank that he takes no notice off but instead tries to
eat the glass of the tank. What supplements can I give him in order
to get him fat and healthy again? He ignores the Nori and the Dulse
that I use to feed the tang. <Very bad sign> All tank parameters
are great and everyone else is healthy, the corals are flourishing.
Now I just need to get him back up to speed. Any suggestions would be
great. Cheers. Julian Hunt <Of the major categories of probable
cause here I'd discount bullying, environmental pollution effects... and
suggest that "something" internal is at play... gut blockage from
swallowing "something", perhaps a developmental/genetic anomaly, more
likely an internal parasite of some sort. You can either "wait this out"
hoping the animal may spontaneously cure of its own (they get thin quite
quickly, and can perish in days to weeks w/o food), or try force-feeding
the Blenny with an anti-parasitic compound or mix (I suggest food laced
with Metronidazole)... in a quarantine system. Bob Fenner>
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