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The
Coralfish genus and its three member species are rare Butterflies in our
interest; and this is a great shame; these fishes are attractive,
interesting behaviorally and for the family Chaetodontidae, of moderate
sturdiness. With careful selection, placement and a bit of catering as
to tankmates and feeding, most folks can keep Coradion species under
captive conditions.
Relating what constitutes a good specimen, selecting it, suitable
compatible livestock and nutrition is the purpose of this article. The Genus Itself: There are three species of Coradion rarely
making their way into the trade in the west. This lack of participation
is mostly a matter of what I call the “founder effect”: Because there is
no present demand, these fishes aren’t collected, and therefore there’s
little awareness of them, and hence little to no demand… and around and
around. Am hoping that our sharing here will interrupt this cycle of
unknowing. The members of the genus hail from parts of
the Indian and Pacific oceans. Though widespread in their range, none of
the Coradion species is “common” or very abundant. Coralfish species are
collected for the trade from a few places in limited numbers; mostly
from the Philippines and Indonesia. Better, though more expensive
specimens can be had out of Australia and Papua New Guinea at times. Species on Parade! Delineating them
can be done on the basis of eye-spots and caudal peduncle markings:
Coradion species Coralfish (Coradion altivelis McCulloch
1916, the Highfin Coralfish; Coradion chrysozonus (Cuvier 1831),
Orange-Banded Coralfish; C. melanopus (Cuvier 1831), Two-Eyed
Coralfish), all from the tropical western Pacific and eastern Indian
Ocean and are very similar in appearance (note presence of eyespots:
none, one, two in order, by species).
Coradions, like most all Butterflyfishes, are shy and retiring; never
aggressive to other fishes, and this genus leaving stinging-celled life
(e.g. corals, anemones…) alone; though they will consume most sponges
and any worm or crustacean that will fit in their prising jaws.
Chaetodontids of all sorts are not so fortunate regarding more agonistic
species beatings and harassment. Beware of stocking your Coralfish with
the usual bully suspects (Triggers, large Basses and big Wrasses, Morays
and such). Stock them only with other non-agonistic species.
As very easygoing species, it’s a good idea to introduce your Coradion
early on in your stocking plan; so that it settles in, gets the “lay of
the land/tank” ahead of more aggressive feeders.
And best to only stock one specimen to a tank; even if the system is
huge; these species are found in pairs/twos at spawning times in
the wild; but most are encountered solitary; and when another comes
about, there is more often than not some chasing behavior that ensues.
Unless you can be sure that you are buying an established pair, go with
one to a system. Selection: Several Important Criteria Age/Size:
like the tale of Goldilocks, tres ursids, and average kinetic energy
(heat) of porridges, you want to select for not too small, nor too
large, but just about right size of specimens of Coradion. For ease of
understanding “total length” we’ll understand here to be from the tip of
the mouth to the end of the tail fin. Specimens of 3-4 inches overall
length are “in the zone” and ones smaller and much larger less
desirable.
Feeding: A Fish That Eats Is (Generally) A
Fish That Lives.
Is it? An all- time great “acid test” of whether to consider a purchase
or no is that the animal is eating… foods that you can get and intend to
use. Non-feeding should negate buying. ASK your dealer to feed the fish
in your presence. Obvious Damage: Look at
the body closely for missing or raised scales. A few blems here and
split fins won’t disqualify a purchase for me; but any bleeding, reddish
areas on the body or fin spine origins will. Look especially at the
“beak”; the terminus of the animals’ mouth. This is way too often
damaged in collection and shipping… by keeping the specimen in too small
a bag and NOT laying the bags on their sides; causing the fishes to lie
sideways… and rest in the dark. Are the eyes clear; the fish “bright”; that
is, aware of your presence, the other animals moving near it? It should
be. Country Source: Though
most often collected and shipped out of Indonesia and the Philippines,
the more expensive alternate sources of Australia, Papua and Singapore
are far hardier. System: “It’s the Environment Dummy”:
An important element in keeping Coradion species; indeed all
butterflyfishes in captivity; is beyond providing optimized and stable
conditions, allowing the system itself to cure. To be clear, though they
are found in several coastal habitats, these fishes live on and require
“reef quality” settings; with copious amounts of healthy live rock.
Allowing your set-up to age a few months ahead of their introduction is
requisite.
Adequate space is also important. Butterflies fare poorly in small
volumes. I would not stock even one specimen in under a hundred gallons;
as they just do not adapt well to not being able to swim about, having a
sense of being able to escape out of view. On this last; a note re
décor; making free-standing bommies, arches, overhangs and caves is
vastly preferable to a standing wall of rock. Foods/Feeding: Coradion Butterflies are notably Sponge
feeders in the wild; but don’t despair. IF you can’t secure and culture
sufficient live AND palatable Poriferans as specimens or ancillary live
rock biota, you may find dried sponges of use at a large “oriental food”
store; as these are used for human nutrition as well. In captivity, preferred foods span a very
large selection of items meaty whole and prepared. With practice most
specimens will learn to take frozen-defrosted; though you may have to
mix these initially in with live (Mysis, Glassworms…) increasing the
percentage of non-live over times. As above; prepared blended foods of
commercial or DIY make can make up the bulk of feed for these
Butterflies in time. More frequent, smaller meals are preferred; two,
three times daily. A favored trick in urging Coradion to feed is the use
live Mysids, though frozen/defrosted are generally accepted with gusto
by healthy specimens. Disease/Health:
Unfortunately, the sore-spot in keeping Chaetodontids; they are
proverbial poster children for biological and environmental diseases.
Amongst most all fish groups, Butterflyfishes are the first to show
signs of infection, parasitism and when conditions are drifting… like
aquatic versions of canaries in mining caves; look first to your BF/s
for signs of impending problems.
As always it is imminently important to exercise careful observation of
your livestock; for behavioral changes. Problems that are caught very
early can often be readily remedied; ones that go too far are almost
impossible to correct.
Rather than copper, formalin et al. conventional medications, I strongly
advise that you look into quinine compound use (Quinine Sulfate,
Chloroquine Phosphate) should your system be struck with a Protozoan
concern. If you can’t mail-order these medications, look to your
veterinarian for help.
Prevention of problems is best for sure; with careful selection of
stock, isolation/quarantine for a few days to rest the specimen/s up,
allow your observation; and timely dips/baths, acclimation to your
main/display systems. Assuredly healthy BF specimens I would skip
quarantine on actually; as this more often than not is not as valuable
as expediting new purchases with a simple pH adjusted freshwater
dip/bath to knock off external issues. Reproduction: Not Yet
As far as I’m aware, there are no ways to sex Coradion externally; nor
have there been reports of their captive spawning and rearing.
Butterflyfishes are considered to be oviparous pair spawners; perhaps
monogamous; with seasonal matings in later Winter and Spring;
egg-bulging females being nudged by their male cohort and both parties
ascending toward the surface, releasing gametes into the water column
and providing no parental care. Cloze:
Coralfish species are not impossible to keep, but do strictly require
sincere effort on our parts in finding and selecting viable specimens,
providing them with a suitable environment and assuring they’re
receiving adequate nutrition. Can you do this? Of a certainty, yes; just
do take your time. As the saying goes; “little happens fast that’s good
in being an aquarist”. Taking your time with these fishes will result in
their acclimation and long-term husbandry success. Coradion species Coralfish (Coradion altivelis McCulloch 1916, the Highfin Coralfish; Coradion chrysozonus (Cuvier 1831), Orange-Banded Coralfish; C. melanopus (Cuvier 1831), Two-Eyed Coralfish), all from the tropical western Pacific and very similar in appearance (note presence of eyespots: none, one, two in order, by species).
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