Removing Concrete from Glass Aquarium. 7/30/2009 Hello, I bought a 130 gallon tank, that has concrete on three sides. <Wow, I hope it was a good price.> I have two questions. Number one, how can I safely remove the concrete? <Will neither be safe, nor easy - you cannot chip it our for fear of cracking the glass. Strong acid is the only way I can think of off the top of my head - Potential for burns, noxious fumes, etc.> And number two, which should answer your question of WHY? is this, Can a glass cutter shorten my tank easily? <No, glass is tempered (hardened)> It is about 4" too tall for my new house setup, but I can not afford to buy another tank just to lose the 4" of height. <I don't see an easy way out, other than taking the aquarium apart and replacing the glass completely.> thanks for the help Tim <MikeV>

I'd leave it. RMF

Tank Setup Question... backgd., foam et al. rock work  – 02/12/09
Hello Bob
<"Loving one">
Thank you for taking time to read this, my husband absolutely swears by you and lives on your site. We are taking another go at our saltwater tank!! This time with much more knowledge and research. I just wanted some reassurance that we are not headed for disaster. We found a great idea and want to run with it.
<Ok>
Our plan is to take small pieces of dried live rock to make a rock wall to cover nearly the entire back of our wall. We are going to glue the pieces with silicone to the front of a plastic light diffuser. The next step is to reinforce it with Beckett's pond foam. The idea then which is where my concern comes in is to cover the foam with Bondo Brand All Purpose Fiberglass Resin and while still wet mixing in crushed coral/sand. The idea is to cover the foam up and in return getting an all natural looking background. I have seen pictures and it looks beautiful.
<Mmm... this could work... w/ or w/o the Bondo>
My concern however lies in toxins. We would allow it to dry assuming it will dry non-toxic. Then cure it for about one to two weeks with small water changes. Then do a complete water change set up our skimmer and cure for another two weeks before introducing any live stock. We have also cornered off a section of our tank to build an in tank refugium.
I guess my question to you is do you see a big "NO" in our plans thus far. I am a research guru myself and want to make sure we are not setting ourselves up to fail after all the thought and planning and research we have put into this.
Thank you and sorry for the short story!!!
Amanda
Phoenix, AZ
<Do take pix of your progress here... With curing, this should be fine. I would do this work out in the garage... Bob Fenner>

Reef rock background, epoxy recommendation  12/27/08
Dear WetWebMedia crew,
<Hello Brent. Minh at your service.>
I have a 327 gallon acrylic aquarium (84x30x30).
It is a going to be a FOWLR.
I am going to purchase about 300-400lbs of rock from bulk reef supply.
What I would like to do is, in some way, secure all the rock to the back pane of the aquarium. Instead of the background being painted black or blue I would have rock.
My problem is what to fasten the rock to? And how am I going to make the rock structure stand up against the back as opposed to having it fall forward? I also need to know what type of foam or silicone to use to secure the rocks in place.
<There are several methods to accomplish this task. You can use one or a combination of the techniques below that best fits your situation.
First, to create large stable rock structures, look into creating pillars with acrylic rods or PVC skeletons. More information and examples can be found here in this link
(http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=746318).
To further strengthen the rock structures, you will need the help of an epoxy adhesive. There are some commercially available products like Two Little Fishies' Aquastik
(http://www.customaquatic.com/estore/control/product/~product=SA-TLASB) or Aquamedic's Reef Construct
(http://www.customaquatic.com/estore/control/product/~product=SA-AM74018).
Personally, I have found a similar product that is much more affordable, particularly if you are aquascaping a massive tank, and that is AquaMend
(http://polymericsystems.com/epoxies-adhesives/epoxy-putty-sticks/aquamend.h
tm). This product should be available at most home improvement stores at half the price of the aquarium commercial products.
Lastly, to add a final measure for stability in especially tall structures, you may want to use a mechanical holder like this Reef Holder product
(http://www.customaquatic.com/estore/control/product/~product=SA-AM74021).>
I came across this idea when I was browsing through reefcentral.com. It was an old thread and the person who started it has not replied to my inquiries. I then made a trip to the Mandalay Bay aquarium and saw their background for the lionfish exhibit. That is when I really fell in love with the rock background.
I am also going to add faux corals to add color and realism to the aquarium. The fish I intend to keep will not permit me to get the real corals.
I have tried many search engines and I cannot come across any ideas.
Are their any websites that I could go to for direction as well?
<Another method you may want to consider is using a faux wall made out of foam. This foam is called "Great Stuff" and is available at most home improvement stores. More information about this technique with examples can be found here:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=447292).>
Thank you,
Brent
<You're welcome. Cheers, Minh Huynh>

Crystal craze inavail.   4/6/08
I searched the internet for quite a while and the only real reference I could find to crystal craze was on your site.
Do you know where I could find some of that old crystal craze? It was such a good product.
Thanks,
Diane
<Was a neat (though smelly) product to use to create some interesting backgrounds... but the company is long-since gone. You might have luck looking for it on Craig's List, eBay... These mega-sale sites do have "olde aquarium products" listings. Bob Fenner>

Type of Background for in Wall Aquarium 3-01-08
I am installing an aquarium into a wall that will be impossible to access the sides/back. I want a blue background, but I am worried as to which type
to choose.. The rolls of blue plastic and glue it in place, or to paint it.
I am afraid if I paint it, it will flake. Then, I am worried if I use the rolled background, it will get moisture/salt between it an the glass, and
then it will be impossible for me to clean. The only access I will have will be the top, sides & bottom. This is a silly question I know, but one which
is bugging me because this is going to be the setup I've always dreamed about but never figured I could do it. I would appreciate any tips and advice you could give me (and if it is paint, what type of paint to use)
<I would paint the back of the tank because I personally hate the look of salt in-between the background on a amazing aquarium. The type of paint you should use is Krylon Plastic and Glass Paint. It is advertised as a plastic paint but it also works on glass. It works amazing and looks really good. The paint will not come off unless you scrap it off with a razor so you won't be worrying about it flaking>
<You are Welcome! Merritt A.>
Thanks

Painting Tank Back 2/27/08
I am installing a 54 gallon aquarium into a built in wall unit. I want to paint the background so that water/salt will not drip down and be visible
(since I will not be able to clean the outside).
What type of paint should I use and how?
<First, I assume you are painting the outside of the tank. If it is a glass tank any paint can work, although a spray paint or latex will be the easiest to work with. If it is an acrylic tank you will want to use a latex (water based) paint.>
I appreciate your advice.
<Welcome, have fun setting up, Scott V.>

Re: Backgrd.    9/9/07
Hi Bob (crew)
<Cynne>
Well I am now ready to begin the new cycling of my old tank. I have set up a holding tank for all remaining inhabitants and emptied the aquarium. I am ready to paint the tank. I first want to make sure, I am going about this the right way. I am not sure I made myself clear in the last email and before going any further would like to verify the paint recommendations. I will be painting the inside of the tank.
<?>
The backing is currently black, I believe it is some type of tinted glass or acrylic? I would like to change this over to a blue color. Since it will actually be painted inside of the tank is the latex water based still the correct choice? Thanks for everything!! Cynne
<Mmm... this won't work... it will for sure peel off... Sorry for the lack of comprehension on my part previously... I would go with your suggestion to use a thin sheet of acrylic... color and adhere this to the back... with Silastic all the way around. BobF>

Re: SW backgd.  9/10/07
Bob,
Thanks for the quick response. I am finding colored acrylic sheets to be quite difficult to locate, and not inexpensive either. Despite the challenge they are on the way. Thanks Again Cynne
<Should be around in at least the milky light blue and royal blue type... look for thin... much cheaper... Oh, and do send a pic along! BobF>

Polyurethane Foam...Safe With Tangs? – 09/05/07
Grateful for your input, as always.
<<Hi Olly...happy to help>>
I have been reading several posts over the last few months about people using that black aquatic foam (waterfall foam<http://www.123ponds.com/fp1053.html>) to create a cool back to their aquarium.
<<Ah yes...am aware/familiar>>
I am STILL!! In the process of setting up my new 240 and thought that this would be a great idea to add some more depth to the tank.
<<Can impart some neat effects, for sure>>
However, after sitting watching my Naso Tang, and Yellow Tang pick the algae off the back wall this weekend, a question occurred (this is where I require the input).
<<Mmm...think I know where this is going...>>
Do you think that this stuff would be safe for the tangs if they continue to pick at the back wall, or will this foam be ingested and cause the fish harm?
<<Well Olly, I can tell you I used this Polyurethane product to fashion large rock structures for my 375g reef. The foam works very well for sticking rock to a PVC framework to create arches/caves/overhangs/et al. The foam is inert once cured. I can’t say that ingesting it is totally without consequence (I honestly don’t know), but my “grazers” have not seemed bothered by the foam...I even have urchins that quite obviously consume a small bit of the foam when the graze over it, with seemingly no maleffect. The product is also used extensively in custom pond installations with no apparent harm to livestock. So...I feel you have little with which to be concerned re your tangs and the foam>>
Once again I really appreciate your input.
Thanks,
Olly
<<Quite welcome. EricR>>

Styrofoam Background for Brackish Tank  3/8/07
Dear WetWebMedia,
<Pufferpunk here with you again, Ben.>
I recently  contacted you in regards to a large corner brackish aquarium 230 U.K. gal tank and water level at 180 U.K. gal. I want to plant mangroves in the tank and I also want to make a sloped structured background in the tank at the rear corner. I  have seen some articles on a Malawi website that used Styrofoam and glues and paints to create structured background. I am hoping  to make it so it has large cavities in it to plant the mangroves going up the bank. Do you know if using normal Styrofoam to create a structure is safe in the  aquarium? I find it hard to believe the glue and paint is but that is what it said on the site cichlid forum.com. I recently read of an eco friendly marine retailer in the U.K. who creates live rock by using a type of cement and then growing the organisms on it.  Thanks for any advice you can give on safe materials to construct a background
<Styrofoam should be fine for a background.  Here's one site I found: http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/art_other_netmax_styro.htm
I'm sure if you do a search, you'll find many more.   You might also want to search sites on home-made live rock or go with the fellow you found.  ~PP>
Best Regards,  Ben

Glue and acrylic tank question(s)   3/31/07
Hello;
  I have an acrylic dispenser box that was originally used for storing soap at an "earth friendly" store. My spouse convinced me I should try it out for an aquarium (it was free). Originally I thought this was a bad idea but we set it up and tried running it with a few goldfish. They are thriving in the tank after six weeks. It's about 40 gallons in very tall, slim proportions.
  A couple of questions maybe you could help me with:
  First off, I apologize for using my goldfish as test subjects--I don't normally do such.
   1) Is six weeks long enough to be able to say it's not leaching anything toxic into the water?
<Yes>
  (I have many species of FW fish: cichlids, catfishes, loaches, ghost knife and I may creep over to the marine side eventually.....)
  2) It has some permanent ugly lettering on the back. I'm thinking of 'gluing' sand to the inside of the back panel as a background. Would Weld-On work to make the acrylic tacky, allowing the sand to stick?
<Mmm... I would not use this... for fear of weakening, ruining the panel... I would affix whatever you'd like on another thin sheet of acrylic and mount this, just place inside against the back...>
Or do you know of something else I can use, like a spray paint or glue? I expect it will be permanently there.
<Mmm... there are some epoxies that are non-toxic (once-cured) that you can use here... Check with the "Plastic Store" where you buy the scrap (hopefully from their bin of such... to save money)>
  Thank you very much for your time and expertise, best regards, Anna
  PS. I tried to register to WWM chat forum to ask my questions but was unable to.
<Am going to cc Zo here re... We're all friends, associated in that way, but only he "administers" WWF. Bob Fenner>

Pump & Stocking Advice; skimmer op., reef stkg., circ., spray-on foam inside backgrd.s    - 02/21/07
Dear Crew,
<Scott>
I sent the basics of this email on Saturday and didn't receive a reply, so I thought I'd send it again.  If you received it previously, I apologize.
   <I don't recall seeing this. Thanks for re-sending>
  Thanks again for this forum.  I can’t tell you how invaluable your advice has been.  You offer great advice that saves hobbyists a lot of grief and heartache, not to mention $.  Unfortunately I got overly excited when I saw what I thought was a great sump/refugium.  I ordered it prior to measuring it and prior to receiving my Euro Reef RS-180, which I can’t wait to set up.  The front compartment is too small for the skimmer.  I am going to attempt to modify it, however, if I can’t I may be forced to house the skimmer in the final compartment which is where I housed it when my 150 gallon reef was set up 8 years ago but times have certainly changed since then.
<Not that big of a deal...>
How much of an added benefit due you feel there is to housing the skimmer in the 1st compartment versus with the return?
<A few (single digit) percent>
  I sincerely appreciate your passion and responsiveness.  I’m establishing a 180 gallon reef which will house Acropora, Galaxea (I need to provide room for growth and to account for their
“stingers”),
<Oh yes>
a torch, a yellow Sarco, zoos, and another group of soft corals such as polyps or Ricordea.  I’ll also have Tridacna clams.
  My fish choices are:
Pr of BT Triggerfish (or Sargassum Triggers)
(1) Sohal Tang (my preference, but also considering Powder Blue, Palette, or Purple)
<The Sohal will be "king" here if placed>
(1) 6-Line Wrasse
Small school of Chrysiptera (Flavipinnis, Hemicyanea, Caeruleolineata, Cymatilis, or Chromis (Scotti or Viridis)...as these seem to be among the least aggressive
(1)Yellow Assessor
(1) Pseudochromis Fridmani
(1) Oblique-lined Dottyback (Cypho Purpurascens)
Pr of Clowns (Undecided on type)
(1) Flame Angel (Unsure if this is a good choice due to the clams)
<Likely okay in a setting of this size, type>
(2) Shrimp Gobies (preferably Amblyeleotris Yanoi or Stonogobiops Yasha, but welcome recommendations based on the other inhabitants) with commensurate shrimp
<Mmm, your triggers may consume the shrimp...  best to place these ahead of the Balistids>
  (1) Mandarin (last fish WELL after the tank is established)
<Mmm, may likely starve... hopefully can be moved to the refugium...>
I will be including a school of either Scott's Fairy Wrasses (1 male – 3/4 females) or school of Anthias (preferably Pseudanthias Bimaculatus, Fasciatus, Rubrizonatus, or Squamipinnis,
….recommendations?  
<Any of these, or even two species would work... one male...>
What are your thoughts/concerns about including both the Anthias and the harem of the Scott’s?
<Can be done in a six foot long system...>
If I were to go that route, what fish, if any, would you eliminate?  
<Mmm, none stick out from what is listed>
The last thing I want to do is overcrowd the tank.  If I go with the Anthias, I will still be adding a male Scott's.  I would appreciate your recommendations.
The tank details are:
180 gallon acrylic w/ 60 gallon sump w/refugium
Euro Reef RS-180 Skimmer
I am contemplating adding a Calcium Reactor at a later date.
<A worthwhile piece of gear>
  3 MH (I don’t remember the wattage… still have the ballasts from a 150 reef I ran 8 years ago) and 2 Actinics (aesthetics)
<I see>  
  I haven't decided on the pump yet.  I’m leaning towards an Iwaki 70RLT (1500 gph @ 4' head) or 100RLT 2000 gph @ 4' head), although I am reconsidering the Dolphin line as well.  I need to determine what the drainage (gph) of my overflows is in order to choose the correct pump (the calculator on reefcentral.com (I believe) can help me determine the drainage flow rate.
<Roughly, yes>
I have one additional question concerning the Iwakis.  Although the Japanese motors are preferred, it appears that the better choice in wet/dry return pumps is the RLXT which is only available up to the 40RLXT.  Is there a significant difference in the RLXT versus RLT models?  
<Not IMO>
I believe that I’m better off running a larger RLT than (2) smaller RLXTs.
<Agreed>
My preference would be a single larger pump (with a 2nd as an emergency back-up).  I am also planning on installing a Turbelle Stream Pump on both sides of the tank pointed towards the center front.
<Nice units>
I also have the option of running a single unit on the center
overflow (5” x 16”).  If I did this, what would be the best direction to direct the flow?
<The two... at either end... perhaps with Tunze's timer...>
I guess the more turnover, the better, so I expect that the better option would be (2) streams, one on each end of the tank.
<Yes>
  My LFS has been spraying black expanding foam on their tanks.  It looks great in their 180 display.  The overflows are hidden by this foam and it creates a nice “wall”.
<Mmm... am concerned about this material in the long haul...>
They’ve also attached frags to it.  Although it looks great, I have long-term concerns about the product’s safety.
<Me too>
  Apparently Foster & Smith were the first to offer it for aquatic use, but they didn’t recommend it for saltwater use when I called them.  They stated it was created for pond use.  I know that Julian Sprung has mentioned the use of similar products in Europe for years, but he was unsure of the long term effects of its use as well.  Are you aware of these products?    
<Am... and I expect to see Jule's "Completely revisited and revised" opinion/spiel here as well... I wouldn't use it>   
  Thanks once again for your expert advice.  Having this wealth of experience a mouse click away is invaluable.  
Scott
<Glad to share, proffer my input. Bob Fenner>

Marble tiles and Grout, Plywood tanks  11/21/06
Guys,
<Hi Tom, JustinN with you this evening>
Quick question, I built several tanks out of plywood and reef safe epoxy, I wanted to tile the outside of the tanks and very top lip of the tanks with tumbled marble.
<Very cool! Having a background in fiberglass repair and fabrication, this type of aquarium construction has fascinated me since I first discovered it!>
I just wanted to check and see if you knew of any adverse affects of marble and or grout on reef aquaria, they are fairly large tanks so even if water did come in contact with the upper lip of the tank (marble and grout) (water level is 3 inches below where marble and grout lip would be so its just a splash factor) any contamination from the materials would be minimal IMO. The other option s to put a clear epoxy over the marble, which I don't mind doing but it has to cure 7 days adding to the setup time of these tanks. Thanks in advance and CHEERS!
Tom
<Well, Tom, personally I think you would be fine without epoxying the surface of the tiles, however, why not take the extra week to do it? If epoxied, there's less risk of anything ever happening to them, and less potential maintenance later. If it were me/mine, I would take the extra time to seal them. Hope this helps you! -JustinN>