High nitrite and nitrate 4/22/08
I have a 54gal corner marine aquarium, fish only setup. I transferred fish from an old tank to this new setup, which I now know was a mistake since the tank had not properly cycled.
<The root of your problem most likely.>
All fish died except a yellow tang and a blue damsel.
<Honestly, the tank is too small for a tang.>
The tank has now been running for a month with a Megaflow sump filter system. I used BioZyme to help start the biological filtration.
<Dried bacteria cultures are not worth much in my opinion.>
My problem is I cannot get rid of nitrites and nitrates.
<Nitrate buildup is a common problem in FO tanks, no deep sand bed or live rock for nitrate reduction so lots of water changes are necessary. Nitrites could be due to the tank still cycling, not enough filter media, or overfeeding. In this case I would guess the tank is still cycling.>
Ammonia was high but is now back to zero. All other parameters are in good range except for the nitrite and nitrate.
<Sounds like the tank is still cycling.>
I have done 2 sets of 15 gallon water changes a week apart.
<Needs more, nitrite is very toxic.>
I am starting to get some brown algae growing on the sand/glass.
<Normal for a new tank.>
I am just at my wits-end. I cannot get rid of the nitrates.. What do I need.
<Nitrates? Water changes is the only thing to remove them. Nitrites require the proper bacteria to be cultured.>
Many thanks.,
<Welcome>
<Chris>

Re: High nitrite and nitrate 4/23/08
Do you think I need a protein skimmer.
<I personally would not run a tank without one.>
My only problem with doing one in the MegaFlow sump is that I cannot put it before any filtration. Any suggestions?
<Best bet is probably a hang-on-tank model, several quality units available in this line.>
<Chris>

Mini-nitrite spike? -02/06/08
Hope you can help...
I have a 3 month old 55g fish only aquarium, RedSea protein skimmer (wouldn't buy it again), 4" sand bed, large Whisper filter with 1 wrasse, 1 clown, 1 Gramma, 1 blenny, 2 shrimp and 1 starfish. Did the fishless cycle for 2 months, all was well (ammonia=0, nitrites=0, nitrates= <20, ph 8.2, temp 78) and fish have been and still appear fine. Last night I replaced one of my 2 filter cartridges (rinsed in used saltwater as per directions I found on internet) and now my nitrite levels have risen to 0.25 overnight. I did a 25% water change but I'm worried I lost too much bacteria. Am I being paranoid, should I stop feeding for a day, or should I keep doing water changes and hope all returns to normal soon? Can someone please tell me how to properly change the filter media so this doesn't happen again?
<?! You should just be able to follow the directions on your filter or maybe ask your LFS how to do this. I wouldn't be able to help you much here without seeing your filter.>
I searched the internet for hours to find the method I used but obviously didn't work well enough! Love the site...all advice has worked fabulously so far.
<Thanks. I advise you just keep doing water changes until the nitrates go back to normal.>
Thanks,
Colleen
<De nada,
Sara M.>

High Ammonia/Nitrite Levels, No Water Changes For One Year!! 1/27/08
Hi guys, thanks for a very informative site!
<Thank you Richard.>
I've got a tank which had been stable for a year. I'd never done water changes because I thought as it was stable I didn't need to.
<Ah, mistake number one.>
I now realise the error of my ways! Anyway, I put in a sand sifting starfish to turn over the sand bed (about 1.5inches deep) and I think it released quite a lot of nutrients into the water (not been turned over for best part of a year and was quite black below the surface).
The corals became very unhappy, snails plus one shrimp have died - I've removed all those I can find. Ammonia went to 0.25 and nitrite to 0.05.
I took the star back to the LFS after reading a bit more about them. put in an extra power head (now approx 30*tank volume per hour - it's a 400L tank with about 70kg live rock, no filter other than skimmer and I use RO water) and did 10-15% water changes every other day for about a week - so changing roughly 50% of the water.
I then read that I may have started a mini-cycle and that water changes can slow down the cycle, so I'm now doing 10-15% every week instead! I've also bought some Seachem Stability to boost bacterial filtration. The problem is, the ammonia and nitrite just will not come down!! I'm also feeding the fish less as well. The levels aren't massively high (only the second level on my test kits) but just sit there and have been like that for several weeks, not going up or down. The nitrate is stable at zero. I'm getting massive algal growth so presumably they're absorbing the nitrate and the ammonia/nitrite is being converted. but why won't ammonia/nitrite come down? Any other suggestions or just keep going as I am?? The levels of all nitrogen compounds were stable at zero before I messed about with the tank.:-(
Fish seem ok, it's the corals and inverts I'm worried about.
<Fish probably are not too happy either.>
Any help much appreciated!!
<Richard, you more than likely have a hydrogen sulphide/excess nutrient problem here. One way to tell is to siphon out a small amount and see if it smells like rotten eggs. I would suggest to use a gravel cleaner type siphon when doing water changes. It will take a little time getting efficient at this as you will have to control the siphon output with your fingers so as not to siphon out too much sand. Another method would be to completely siphon out the sand and replace, but do not remove more than a 25% area per week. When this is completed, let the sand bed age a month or so and do re-introduce a Sand Sifting Starfish to help keep the sand bed churned up.>
Thanks
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Richard

High Nitrites, Cycling 4/6/07
Hey crew, I have an 8 gallon bio cube that has been up for about 2 weeks. I have 8 pounds of live rock with some polyps and a toadstool mushroom leather coral and also a pajama cardinal and a royal Gramma. <Way too much way too fast, need to cycle the tank first.>  My live rock has also  been growing some brown algae on it. My LFS gave me some of there water so I could start it quickly. <Worthless, the bacteria you are trying to culture lives on solid surfaces, not in the water column.> My recent water tests have shown a spike in nitrite and nitrate levels.  <Expected, your tank is cycling.> I have done my water changes and everything but the water is  the same. I went to another fish store and they gave me some liquid to lower the nitrites.  <What was it called?>  I’m not sure what it was called because they gave me a sample only, it had something to do with the bacteria. <Unless it is Bio-Spira kept refrigerated it is of no use.>  So then they told me I need a skimmer but I really don’t want one because since its only an 8 gallon it would look horrible in the tank. <Your tank would greatly benefit from it.>  So if you could give me some suggestions on what to do it would be helpful.
<An 8 gallon nano is almost impossible to keep, its going to be lots of work.  At most you could keep one very small fish in there.  Also your tank needs to cycle, see here http://www.wetwebmedia.com/estbiofiltmar.htm for more.>
<Chris>

Testing quarantine tank, coppering mollies prophylactically    4/21/07
Dear Mr. Fenner and staff,
<Abell>
Thank you for your help and advice on my blue tangs in quarantine.  They seem fine and since they've survived all I've unintentionally put them through, Darwin says that they'll be SUPERFISH by the time they're ready for the main tank.
I have two three questions:
This one is rhetorical.  Even in high school science experiments, I never got the "right" results like everyone else.  Now ... as an adult, each time I test my water, no matter what kind of kit I use ... I seem to get the most BEAUTIFUL colors in my vial ...
<Heeee!>
that rarely have any relation to the colors on the chart!!  LOL!    Seriously, I change 1.5 gallons of water in my 8.3 (actual) gallon quarantine tank every other day using RO/DI water from my LFS, yet almost every time I test the water ... I get Ammonia close to zero, Nitrate close to zero and Nitrite in the danger 5.0+ zone.
<Not impossible>
  Instant Ocean granular test, Aquarium Pharm test tube and Jungle test strips all with the same result.  Given that it's a bare quarantine tank and assuming, as you've suggested that I'm over bio-loaded and under filtered, why am I not seeing Ammonia at danger levels?
<Is being readily converted...>
Does it make sense for them to be almost zero yet Nitrite to be so high even after water changes?  (the LFS water tests 0/0/0)
<Yes... very transient values... fish constantly produce ammonia... leaks through their gills, urinate it out, gets converted by decomposed proteinaceous parts of their undigested food/feces... Microbes present are quickly converting this to nitrite... but the complementary microbes that might convert this to nitrate are missing>
As an unrelated question .... what is the procedure for quarantining MOLLIES after acclimating them to salt water?
<About the same... a few weeks in isolation... for observation, hardening>
  After all, they've been in the ultimate Fresh Water Dip, haven't they?   Are there any parasites or diseases that they can bring with them to the main tank?  
<Yes... mainly Amyloodinium>
If they should be quarantined, would they tolerate a marine-level copper treatment tank?
Thanks Again!!!
<Can, but I would not prophylactically expose them to this... Unless symptoms show... Bob Fenner>

Nitrite problem 
Hello, 
I have a 29 gallon tank that has been set up and running for about 45 days. 
I started with a few damsels, chocolate chip starfish, live rock, crushed coral and salinity of 0.23. I later added 5 turbo snails and a few more damsels and two tomato clowns. Things seemed great so after another week I added a sea anemone and a scooter blenny. But low and behold the day after I added them my system crashed and I lost all but two damsels, the snails, the starfish and the anemone. My nitrites had sky rocketed. On the advice of the pet dealer, I added a protein skimmer and live sand to my tank and did water changes. The tank seemed to even out so we reintroduced a couple more damsels. They are acting fine but the nitrites are again creeping slowly. The pet dealer told me to do daily water changes but this doesn't seem to be doing much good. The test kit is putting the nitrites at 0.2 for the lowest reading I seem to be able to reach. I would greatly appreciate any help you can give me. I love my salt water tank but am feeling inadequate and frustrated. Also, I am having an outbreak of nuisance (brown) algae on my live coral that my snails can't touch. Any advice on this would also be appreciated. 
Sincerely, 
Ginger 
<Thank you for writing, and I do indeed wish I could help you... all you really need is "time" to go by (out of my jurisdiction)... and to slow down... no more livestock additions, cut way back on feeding (original source of the ammonia converted to nitrites.... And do get your hands on a good reference book (or three) and read over the www.wetwebmedia.com site re aquarium set-up, skimmers, stocking, anemones... Your tank was pushed too fast, too crowded... it will recenter itself, and hopefully you will stay in our wonderful hobby. Bob Fenner>

Re: Nitrite problem
Thank you for your help and advice. I will not be adding anything new for awhile and hope it will recenter itself. There were two things I noticed from your site and your email. The first being about my anemone.
Unfortunately, I had purchased a sebae without realizing it. I didn't buy it for it's color but was told by the dealer that it was probably the only one I could keep alive as I only have the one 50/50 light in my hood. He told me to feed it daily on silversides and nothing about cleaning up regurgitated food. Perhaps that is part of my nitrite problem?
<Yikes... daily feedings are too much and the animal must be cleaned up after as you know... Twice weekly food offerings (and more diverse meaty items) are sufficient. And yes to all this mess and stress being a very real source of your nitrite woes>
Another question is about hermit crabs......I had been given one instead of a turbo snail from a dealer. It immediately went after my anemone so I put it in a brackish tank I have with larger fish it couldn't bother....would this be the best place for him rather than reintroducing him to the salt tank?
<Perhaps... there is a very wide "lifestyle" range amongst the false crabs called Hermits... some almost exclusively detritivores, some algal feeders, some would pinch off your toe and eat it given the opportunity. Sounds like this one is a non-reef item. I would exclude it>
In your opinion, what are the best cleaners of brown algae that has developed on my cat's paw coral? 
<Actually none... these are likely diatom scums, and transitory in a developing system... best to outcompete them with other purposeful photosynthetic life... like the celebrated macro-algae, reduce the amount of available nutrient through clean new water use (filtering out silicates, nitrates, phosphates), good synthetic salt mix use, a good/clean skimmer, good maintenance practices...>
I was told blennies, crabs, tangs and snails although my turbo snails
aren't cleaning very well.
<Perhaps a genus Ctenochaetus/Bristlemouth Tang if it will fit in with the rest of your system, livestock. Read about these and diatoms on the WWM site>
I will try and get the book you recommended as soon as possible and have bookmarked your page. Thanks again for all your help. Ginger
PS: I plan to stay in the hobby a long time:-)
<Very glad to hear/read my friend in fish. Bob Fenner>

Spiked nitrites
Dear Mr. Fenner,
We have a 75 gal tank with 2 small clown fish, 2 small dominos, 
<Watch out for these... they get nippy, mean>
1 hippo tang, 1 gold fin tang, 1 rock beauty angel, 
<The Gold Fin Tang and Rock Beauty are difficult to keep...>
and 1 dog face puffer. We cycled our tank without fish then added the fish and all was well until recently. Our fish developed a case of ick which we immediately medicated with copper Cupramine.
<In your main tank... not advised... Likely killed off your beneficial microbes...>
 Now the fish are ick free but our nitrites have spiked and we cannot seem to get them down. It also seems as if we are not producing nitrates as well as we should relative to the amount of nitrites. Our ammonia remains at 0 so there is no problem there. We have done several water changes the past few days and vacuumed the crushed coral bed and continue to do so trying to fix the situation. We have an Emperor Bio Wheel system and a Magnum 350 for filtration. It seems as if we are starting all over again. Please help our fish we have grown quite fond of them.
Thanks! M.Pena
<Or starting "en media res", the middle of things... Be careful here... stop feeding entirely... as your system is in mid-re-cycle... There are a few things you can, should do to speed establishment of nutrient cycling along... first and best, to add some live rock... Don't feed your livestock at all until you have no as in zip nitrites... If the concentration approaches 1.0ppm do a water change with pre-made synthetic water of about the same specific gravity. Please read over the FAQs section of the site: www.WetWebMedia.com under the marine index. Bob Fenner>

Hi Robert! (recycling event mystery... solutions)
G'day Bob - I've been browsing your sites for the last 2 days with immense gratitude - I'm having a mini panic - I'm a total neophyte with extreme enthusiasm - I have a 105 gal tank with 2 anemones, a small parrot, 4 damsels, a x-eyed squirrel, a rabbit and a 3'' imperator angel, a couple of cleaner shrimp and a crab. The tank is 5 months old - I think it's re cycling - I've lost an anemone and several fish in the last week - My nitrites are .1 to .2 ppm, Ph 8.0, Temp is 80'F.
<Hmm, we need to discover why here>
I've added charcoal to my trickle filter? Dropped the salinity to 1.02 and reduced my feeding to minimal and now I'm totally buggered if I know what to do next - I'd really appreciate your help and advice - thanks - regards -
Graeme
<Thanks for the lucid input... Would do about what you've done... and add a bit more aeration, circulation to the system... particularly directed at whatever spots you might have that don't have much water movement (like behind decor, live rock...). Otherwise, of course, continue with the limited feeding, and do your best to keep water quality stable. These problems have ways of resorting themselves out... usually by evidencing some sort of "dead protein" (a "mysterious" lost organism, die-off in the system somewhere... like a succession/turnover of mix of organisms in the substrate, live rock...) and recycling as you state. Bob Fenner>

Sick fish???
How are you? Somehow I just knew I was going to end up writing you for something.
<This happens>
I just recently was given a saltwater startup system as a gift. It has been running for a month, and is just about at the end of its cycling time..... it is a 38 Gallon glass aquarium, Fluval 204 filter, crushed coral substrate.
I have a 6 inch airstrip running constantly. It has 2 pieces of coral (non-living) as well as some shale rocks I used to build a few caves for the fish. I have a striped damsel, domino damsel, 4 inch grouper and a baby Picasso trigger (who I added 2 days ago ... I know, I shouldn't add fish until the cycle is done, but I couldn't resist the little guy)
<A "grouper" and a triggerfish in a 38 gallon system? These species are likely too big psychologically and will be too large physiologically...>
in the tank.
Measurements are 0 ammonia, 0.5 nitrites, 80 nitrates. 
<Hmm, the last readings are high... and the shale concerns me>
PH running steady at 8.2, and the temp at 79.
All was fine until the last few days. The grouper has stopped feeding 3 days ago (prior to the added trigger), and in the last 2 days or so has taken to hiding in the caves. He rarely comes out. We have observed him scratching himself on the rocks, but do not see any white spots, so I don't think its Ick.....His eyes reddened a few days ago, and I have been doing daily 30% water changes since..... The domino seems to be injured from the constant attacks of the striped damsel ,who has been nipping him badly lately.
Otherwise the fish are doing well. 
<!>
They continue to eat ravenously although we stopped feeding 2 days ago (per the FAQ's we read on your site) to bring the nitrites down. They were hovering at 2.0.
<Yikes!>
This morning I gave them a light feeding. The grouper showed no interest at all.
Any suggestions/ideas what can be ailing the grouper? 
<... don't feed anything until the nitrites are at zero, zilch, nada... the fishes you list will not starve... and are in much more danger of dying from poisoning otherwise... and start either looking for a larger system or trading the bass and trigger in>
We have not lost a fish for about 2 weeks now..... we had another damsel who got very weak during the beginning of the nitrite spike, and became a late night snack to the grouper.
I appreciate any insight you can give, and also want to say thanks for all the knowledge we have gained reading your site.
Steve D'angelo
<Ah my friend... you are on the very steep side of a learning curve here... best to take all slow for now... cease feeding, remove the shale, look to adding a few pieces of live rock... this is what I would do. Bob Fenner>

Re: Sick fish???
Thank you very much for the reply. Kinda knew that was the answer, sometimes my stubborn self overrules the logical one..
<Happens to everyone I've ever met>
Sorry....the rock is not shale, its slate.
I have added 5 pounds of live rock, and looking to get another 5 - 10 pds this week.
The LFS has a batch curing, with some very nice pieces, and won't sell any of it until later this week. How much live rock do you think is necessary?
<Don't recall how large your system is, shape... about a pound per gallon>
Again, thanks for the help.
Just sign me "not feeding in NJ"....
<Hmm, am off to the airport in a bit to drop off friends who are returning to Garfield, Belmar... They were feeding. Bob Fenner>

Oh the inexperienced but lucky ones!! (?, too much livestock, nitrite...)
Hi Bob,
New to saltwater tanks and I wanted to run this past you for suggestions. This is my current situation:
90 Gal tank
Full UGF with (2) sweeping powerheads 125 gph each
100 lbs crushed coral substrate
30 lbs lava rock
<Do test this for iron content...>
20 lbs ornament rock
<Not live?>
air curtain
(3) Damsels
(1) Porcupine Puffer, 2"
(1) Valentini Puffer, 2"
(1) Cowfish, 3"
(1) Black Volitans Lion, 2"
(1) Longnose Tang, 4"
(2) Eclipse 3 hoods w/functional bio-wheels
Seaclone protein skimmer
<You could use a bigger, more serious skimmer>
ph 7.8, ammonia 0.25, nitrite 5.0 (yikes!!)
<As in five parts per million? not 0.5? Stop feeding! get ready to execute a large water change... no more livestock added...>
, nitrate 10
salinity 1.019
system running for 5 weeks
<What? When did you place all this livestock? Should have been later, much>
feeding 3 times a day (I know now after reading your site to go to every other day)
<Don't feed at all, zero for right now... till the nitrite goes to zip>
I hope you can help me establish a balanced system for my fish. Thanks!!! Paul.
<Yikes! We need to take a bunch of steps back... I would STRONGLY encourage you to read through all the marine set-up and maintenance sections on our site: www.WetWebMedia.com, and join our chat forum and read a good general marine aquarium book or two (for more rounded opinions than you can get from yours truly). Do start reading NOW! And join: http://talk.wetwebfotos.com/  where there are many fine folks who will help you as well... And do consider adding live rock, pre-cured to your system... it has not cycled completely and could well toxify your livestock to the extent of death. Bob Fenner>

Re: Ich Treatment
Mr. Fenner,
The nitrite is over 1.0 ppm. The only clue I can think of is maybe from lowing the salinity from 1.023 to 1.010. This spg lowering was done slowly, maybe too, slow.
<What? No such thing as too slow... and you don't state how over how long this period was...?>
I was even shock with this high nitrite level that I used two different test kits. Sure enough, it was high on both kits. I am doing a 10% water change tomorrow.
<Don't feed anything in the meanwhile. Bob Fenner>

Re: Ich Treatment
Sorry, I didn't explain myself correctly. What I mean by slow is, it took me ten days to come down to 1.010. 
<Ah! This time frame should have been fine to sustain nitrifiers.>
Started taking a gallon of tank water and replacing with same amount with RO water. Four days later 2 gallons were taken out but notice that spg was not going down much. Finally, I stated taken 5 gallons out and replacing with 5 gallons RO water. When I got down to 1.010, I added the total gallons, to my surprise I took out 33 gallons from a 46 gallon tank. Now I am realizing the reason the nitrite is high.
<Hmm, well, for whatever reasons, appreciable nitrite is bad news. Would not feed the system and be ready to move your livestock should other negative events occur. Bob Fenner>

Nitrite problems
Two weeks ago, I added two small common clownfish to my 180l tank, where they joined my small pajama wrasse and small hermit crab. I have a Sanders maxi-skim 400 which I added 10 days ago. I have an internal Juwel filter.
<All good products>
I made a 10% water change yesterday with R.O water. Nitrite 0.25 and trace ammonia. The reading haven't gone down since they went up after I put in the clowns.
I would appreciate your help,
James Matthams
<Hmm, do take care here. I would feed the clowns only sparingly if at all... Important that the system cycle completely. Please do read through the FAQs on ammonia and nitrite in marine systems: 
http://wetwebmedia.com/nh3marfaqs.htm
http://wetwebmedia.com/no2probfaqs.htm
posted on our site. Adding some live rock (cured) or ready-made nitrifying bacteria culture may be in order here. Bob Fenner>

Nitrite and nitrate
Hi Bob,
<Actually Steven Pro this morning.>
Why is it always a Sunday when the problems seem to show up....!?
I am cycling my rock in a new 75 gal tank. (I've written to you before about muscles and education) I had a 55 fish only tank that was fine with live rock and substrate etc. Only 1 clown and a yellow tail in it. I am concentrating on the new tank. Anyway we have been using the water from the fish only tank to help cycle the new 75. All was really going well with ammonia down to nothing and nitrite down etc. We added new rock to the tank last Tues and the clean up crew from Tampa Bay......All was good....by Friday all ammonia still at 0
etc. Then the fish only tank let go. Friday AM bright and early...pouring on the floor.....
<Oh no!>
Had to think fast so we took probably 25 gal from the fish only tank and the live rock and put in in the new tank....we didn't know what to do about the fish but 2 weeks ago a fish hitchhiked on a piece of rock that we moved from the fish only to the new and he seemed fine so we took a chance. We put our fish in it too
This AM ...
Ammonia .5
Nitrite NO2-N between 1 and 5
NO2 between 3.3 and 16.5
Nitrate between 50 and 100
PH 8
KH 9
LFS said yesterday (I saw the readings were starting to creep up) do nothing....maybe a little water change to help the fish but I'm actually prolonging the stress and I may as well get it over with.....
<Not quite correct. You might prolong the cycling process by doing water changes. Not stress.>
What do you think? Should I do a massive water change like 30 gal or a small one like 10 gal. Or sit in front of the tank and bite my nails.....skimmer is running like mad.....we have 2 charcoal filters on the sump and all life in the tank looks fine.....Thank you Helene
<Do mix up and aerate some water to keep on hand. Keep a close eye on your fish and the test kit readings and be prepared to do a large water change (30 gallons). Good that you skimmer is performing well. Best of luck. -Steven Pro>

Re: nitrite and nitrate
Thank you Steven,
<You are quite welcome, Helene.>
I ran in from feeding the horses and checked the email and there you were. I appreciate this so much. Not sure if I understand correctly. Should I do the water change now? How much worse should the nitrite and nitrate get before the 30 gallon water change? Or should I wait until the fish act funny and then change and check the readings.....Hope that you are having a nice Sunday...I'm about to entertain a friend from Ca that I've only seen 1 time in 30 years...She told me that she has a fish phobia.....this may either send her into orbit or cure her, huh? What a day for a
visit.....Thank you again. Helene
<I am going to make a few assumptions before I give you my advise. First, it sounds like you are going to be very busy and may not be able to watch the fish real closely. No offense intended, we all have busy lives. Plus, tomorrow is Monday and you may be going back to work. In that case, I would do the water change now, if you have the time and have good, aged water to use (mixed well and aerate for at least a few hours). Also, try to mix up some more water when you are done for future use if things get worse. You should get your friend to start the siphon hose. Ha-Ha! -Steven Pro>

Re: nitrite and nitrate
Thank you and I'm beginning to think that you're never too busy to watch a fish....That's the problem and why (and I discussed this with Bob) the IRS gives you a tax break on the whole thing....I work at home....You pay your employees to watch the darn things too. Their heartbeat goes down and yours goes up!!!
<I own an aquarium maintenance business. Everything I have fish related is a write off.>
We are going to do a 15 gal water change now and make up a whole 32 gal trash can for later if we need it....sound OK?
<Sounds fine.>
Hope my friend doesn't need to shower after the siphoning 'cause that can is in the shower!
<That made me laugh out loud!>
Thank you. Helene
<You are welcome. I hope you can enjoy the rest of your day. -Steven Pro>

High Nitrite Level
Hello
I am very happy to find your sites. I have a tank about two months old.
The original fish purchased with the tank are still living through the chemical changes. All new fish have expired. I finally found out it is because of high nitrite levels. I have done a 50% water change and tested still high. Then a 25% change, tested a bit lower then I just did a 75% water change and will test again in a few days. What do you suggest.
<I would archive the WWM site for information on tank cycling. Try to keep the fish load to a minimum and do not overfeed.>
The levels are not decreasing as I have anticipated.
<Not unusual to take several months depending on tank size, bio-load, feeding, etc.>
I am trying to remedy the situation before I lose any more fish. The ammonia level tested fine. The nitrate level tested fine. Just the nitrite level is the problem-or so I have been told from the pet store after testing my water. Please help. I am trying to keep them living during these changes.
<Nothing much to do at this point but continue water changes when necessary. Most people run into these kinds of problems when adding too many fish, too quickly.>
Thanks, Thia
<You are welcome. -Steven Pro>

Re: high nitrite level
hello Robert,
thanks for the info. in the past two days I have lost two more fish. how often should I do water changes?
<Once a typical captive aquatic system is fully cycled, anywhere from once a week to once a month. Please read: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/water.htm and FAQs>
is every day a 25% too much?
<Yes>
I am trying like hell. not many fish left, about 5 small to medium.
if (god forbid) they all die should I keep the tank running and testing or should I start from scratch again?
<Please read through WWM>
is this nitrite level problem normal in setting up tanks?
should I have set up an empty tank and waited to add fish?
any info you will offer is greatly appreciated.
thanks again
Thia
<Please read through WWM. Study my friend. Then act... through knowledge, understanding. Bob Fenner>