Naso Hunger Strike and High Nitrates   2/2/06
Hi again,
<Hello Mordy, Adam J with you this time.>
My 6 inch Naso, who has been with us for about 5 months (in a 125 FOWLR with some other friends) has gone on a hunger strike. When I first got him it took me nearly three weeks to get him to eat after which he ate anything I fed, like a pig. Feedings are daily flake, frozen and Nori. Past week he has not been eating, wandering aimlessly, swimming through food and hanging around the Nori but not eating.
<Hmm, any obvious stresses that would have caused this? How long has the hunger strike ensued?>
Belly is starting to get noticeably pinched but still swimming actively. Does not appear to be sick nor do any tank mates. I have three things that I think it may be related to; 1. recently added about 45lbs of LR to the 130 already there (changed his living space no doubt), 2. Higher nitrates 40-50ppm
<Mmm, yes surgeons are quite sensitive to high levels of wastes/dissolve organics in general, in a FOWLR you need to get this number no higher than 20, 10 and less is preferred.>
3. elevated phosphates. Any of these things sound like a good enough reason?
<See above.>
What can I do to rectify the situation?
<Large water changes and possibly try adding a nutritional supplement to the food like Selcon, also consider some fresh algae (such as Gracilaria) or even live brine; yes I know it’s not nutritious but better than nothing.>
Thanks for all your help, past & present.
<Anytime.>
Mordy
<Adam Jackson.>

High Nitrates in a Nano System - 05/14/06
Hello everyone,
<<Hello!>>
Thanks in advance for your help and all the great information on your site.  
<<Quite welcome...glad you find it useful>>
I have a 12 gallon eclipse system that has been set up for a little over 4 months with about 15 lbs of live rock and 1 1/2-inch sand bed. I've also upgraded the stock light to a 32w SunPaq 50/50 and added a sand shark internal filter for extra flow.  After reading about the bio-wheel I took it out and am now running the stock filter with Chemipure and some filter floss changed every few days.  
<<Great!>>
My inhabitants are: 2 firefish, 1 percula clown, 2 feather dusters, 1 open brain, 4 crabs, 1 red foot snail, 1 sand sifting star,
<<The star will not live in this small system...please do some reading here and among the links in blue: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/sndsftstrfaqs.htm >>
1 skunk shrimp, zoanthids, and 4 mushrooms.  Even with  twice weekly 1 - 1 1/2 gallon water changes, I am constantly battling high nitrates.
<<Mmm, your source water maybe?>>
They stay around 60 ppm.
<<Yikes!  This should be having deleterious effects on your livestock.  Check your test kits...use new/kits of a different brand to confirm>>
My ammonia and nitrite levels are at 0.  My feeding schedule is as follows: 2 or 3 flakes of Formula One broken up into edible pieces, 4 times per week, 1/4 inch of Liquid Life Marine Plankton, 3 times per week,
<<I would suspend feeding this product (any/all liquid foods) until you determine/correct your nitrate problem>>
2 pellets of Formula One, twice per week, hand feed brain one small piece of frozen scallop twice per week.  All the inhabitants seems to be doing well.  The Zoa's are multiplying, the brain is nicely colored and eats well, and the fish do not seem to be distressed at all.  
<<Which makes me suspect your test kit all the more>>
My question is, would it be beneficial to also add Purigen in the filter with the Chemipure?  Any suggestions in battling this nitrate problem would be very helpful.
<<The Purigen could prove useful on this system...but more important is determining the source of your nitrates.  If the nitrate reading is true, it will soon start to malaffect your livestock.  Firstly, confirm the validity of your test kit, if accurate, check your source water (are you filtering your water?)...if both test kits and source water check out, start doing 50% water changes every other day to bring the nitrates down until you can determine/eliminate the source...and have a read here:  http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nitratesmar.htm >>
Thanks,
Debra
<<Regards, EricR>>

90 Gallon Reef Tank, nitrate 7/23/05
Hi Guys,
I have a 90 gallon reef tank that has been up and running for over a year. All is well other than my feelings about my livestock and a possible overstocking issue.
I currently have 5 small Green Chromis, 1 Neon Dottyback, 1 Lawnmower Blenny, 1 Malaysian Clown, 1 medium Hippo Tang, 1 Medium Sailfin Tang ( I know, but they seem to get along just fine :), 1 Six Line Wrasse,  1 Jawfish, 2 Black Ocellaris Clownfish, 1 Blackcap Basslet, and 1 Blue Chromis. That's right 16 fish in all. My corals include 1 HUGE Toadstool Leather, Ever reproducing POM POM Xenias, 1 Devils hand, 2 clusters of Sun Polyps, some star polyps, 1 Large Sebae Anemone, 1 Leather finger coral, Several Ricordea rock and mushroom rocks, some Seamat, and 130lbs of coralline encrusted liverock.
I also have a cleaning crew of several Brittle/Serpent/Sand Sifting Starfish, many hermit crabs, a Sally lightfoot, Porcelain crab, Turbo Snails, 2 Cleaner Shrimp & 20 or so Nassarius Snails. (Hope I got that last one right :)
<Quite an assemblage>
I change 10 gallons of water every week religiously using R.O. only.
My Ammonia and Nitrites are 0. PH is 8.4. Alkalinity is in the 200 range. Nitrates are currently in the 30ppm range most likely due to the bio load. I use the quick dip test strips several times a week.
The corals are acting normal, Sun Polyps open in the P.M. all others in the A.M. when the actinics kick on.
I feed sparingly, maybe too sparingly but I want to keep my water as good as possible.
My question is, are my Nitrates too high? Should I downsize my bio load or change more water weekly. What do you think???
Thanks in advance.....
Doug-
<Sounds like a very nice, well-maintained/operated system... Nitrate concentration, as an abstract, concept... is "over-rated" in terms of its "importance"... I don't think its presence here is indicative of trouble, much stress. I've written re, following up on Tom Frakes (now out of Aq. Systems) piece/ideas re "Nitrate Menace" (in their qtrly. infomercial SeaScope)... not to worry. Cheers, Bob Fenner>

Goin' On A Hunger Strike - 08/11/2005
I have a 150 gallon marine tank.  My dwarf lion (D. zebra) has not eaten in a month (frozen krill).  
<Disturbing....>
Have tried many ghost shrimp, crab, shrimp, etc. to no avail.  My 8" snowflake eel seemed to be having trouble eating also and recently died.  
<A major concern....>
He did not seem thin and actually seemed swollen.  
<An excellent clue....>
My 5" porcupine puffer quit eating for 3 days but now is eating fine. frozen krill).  My powder blue tang and other herbivores seem to be unaffected.  No change in appetite or behavior.  The lion appears to try to suck in the food but cannot.  My water quality seems good.  
<Seeming good is not enough info....  Be certain ammonia and nitrite are ZERO, pH 8.3, salinity 1.021-1.024....>
But my nitrates are high.  
<Also of concern.  How high?  Above 20ppm can be an issue.>
I have done additional water changes (more than normal), I run a UV sterilizer, protein skimmer and do regular filter changes.  
<Try to find the source of your nitrates....  I would be concerned that the tank may be overstocked if you cannot keep nitrate down with reasonable water changes.>
No fish in the tank have bad fins, color or any abnormalities.  And there have been no recent illnesses or fish additions.  I would appreciate any suggestions.
<My first guess is purely environmental issues.  Get more water changes done, pronto, if anything is mildly amiss there.  Try feeding foods soaked in garlic extract to stimulate an appetite.  If still unsuccessful, you might want to consider the possibility of internal parasites....  the swollen eel, after having not eaten, may be an indicator, here.  Are any of the fish excreting long, clear-ish strands of poo?  You might consider offering a food medicated with Metronidazole or Praziquantel, or treat these fish in a quarantine tank with either of those in the water.>
Thanks.
<Wishing you well,  -Sabrina>

Nitrates/coral  10/19/05
Hi team,
Can nitrates at about 20ppm cause coral to develop a fungus and die?
Thanks
    Mohamed
<Mmm, generally not... though, depending on what the underlying cause of nitrate accumulation is/are, this stress can/does contribute to lowered vitality, resistance. Bob Fenner>

Nitrate or Nitrate-Nitrogen?  (4/3/2004)
Hi,
I was wondering, what is the top line of NO3 level that is allowable in the fish only marine tank. <Not more than 20 ppm Nitrate Ion, lower if keeping sensitive species>  I have Fastest and Salifert Nitrate Test kits and the Fastest kit says that up to 20ppm NO3-N is ok for fish only tank.  <An uncommon way to test...measuring Nitrates as Nitrate-Nitrogen is usually misleading, as the vast majority of hobbyist test kits measure Nitrate Ion> So, that means about 80ppm of NO3 is ok. Am I right?  <Not at all.  As previously stated I would not allow N03 Ion to rise above 20 PPM or less if possible, depending on the species being kept>  My tanks' nitrate level is about 6ppm NO3-N (Fastest) and about 25ppm NO3 (Salifert) <closer to 27 ppm>. I see people who have NO3 level going up to 100ppm in your site.  <Definitely NOT recommend> I wanted to set a target Nitrate level and keep that going in my tank by setting water changes schedules and using chemical media like Seachem's Purigen.  <As low as possible, but realistically for a fish only tank without a DSB would be 10-20 ppm.  I just recently started using Purigen, we should share results> I have this MS Excel sheet that calculates and predict nitrate level in the future with given parameters like gallons of water changed and past nitrate levels in the tank.  <send us a copy :) > I know that 0ppm is best Nitrate level but I don't want to over do it and have the fish all stressed out.  <In a fish only tank it's best not to be obsessive over it, zero would be hard to attain with many of the messier fish and without a DSB>
I learn lot of stuff about marine aquarium maintenance from your site. <As do I>
Thanks, -hsk
<No problems.  M. Maddox>

Nitrate production
I have a saltwater tank that is 10 months old. Everything is fine except I am worried about the nitrate levels getting out of hand in the future. I use a Fluval 404, Tide Pool 2 wet dry filter with overflow box and Berlin protein skimmer. I did read before hand about the problems with wet/dry filters but really it was the best option for me at the time to use to start up the tank. I know that you have recommended to others with wet/dry filters to just remove a little bit of the biomedia at a time until it is all gone. The Tidepool has a wheel so all the media would have to go at once or all stay. Nitrates are at about 10ppm now and all other levels are within normal limits. I am just worried that the nitrates will climb. I have a 110 galloon tank and change about 20-30 galloons every week. Will I face a nitrate problem and how should I adjust the Tidepool and biomedia to prevent this problem. Thank you for your help. Abby
<You don't mention what you keep in this aquarium. Sounds like fish only, so no worries! Just stay on top of the water changes. If it's a reef tank then you may need to address this soon. In either case you can't remove biocapacity (filter media) without replacing it with another or you will overload your tank. Removing biomedia usually involves adding a nitrate reducing media like Live rock and deep sand beds first. These need to be cycled and well established before removing anything from the wet/dry or the Biowheel. Hope this covers it! Craig>

Re: E. quadricolor
Hello All,
Thanks for the good advice in the past!
<You are welcome.>
I bought a green tipped bubble anemone yesterday and put him in my FOWLR tank (50 gallon). My nitrates tested around 20. Too high?
<Closer to zero would be better.>
What do I need to watch for in the animal to see if it is affecting him?
<Once you see symptoms, it will be too late.>
I plan to do water changes to get this level down.
<This will help if your new water is free of nitrates (RO or DI water with a good salt mix).>
Would a refugium setup be a good idea here to keep it very low in nitrates?
<Yes, another part of the equation along with the water changes, other nutrient export processes, proper feeding, and all other aspects of good husbandry.>
My lighting is 2 55-watt Custom Sea Life Smartlamps. The tank is only 16" deep and the tallest live rock is 10" from the bottom. Is the lighting adequate?
<It does not sound like it. I would ballpark this as about half to three quarters of needed light.>
I plan to feed him Formula One and Mysis a few times a week. Let me know if there is anything else I need to know. I have read through the website and some of the FAQ regarding this animal. Thanks again for your services. Michael
<You are welcome. -Steven Pro>

Hardy Inverts
Hi. My tank has a nitrate level of 25 ppm. Which invertebrates are rather nitrate tolerant?
<Mushroom anemones would be ok.>
I would like to add algae grazers and scavengers but have good growths of Caulerpa and Halimeda as well as coralline red so I would rather not have too much eaten. Which herbivores could now be added to control other algae but which would leave most of these introduced species alone?
<Various algae eating snails would leave the macroalgae and coralline alone. -Steven Pro>

Nitrates
HI bob,
I have a 240 gal. FO tank with 100lbs liverock, under the tank wet dry system, plus a protein skimmer. My nitrate level is 25mg/L. This is with a Tetra test kit. I cant seem to get the nitrates any lower. All of the fish are doing well. Is 25mg/l of nitrates too high of a level?? Thanks
<Good question... some nitrate is inherent in almost all systems... indicative of too crowded, overfed, under filtered/aerated/circulated conditions... Aquariums with Wet-Dry filters have much more nitrate as a consequence of over-driven nitrification... But 25 ppm is no problem for a fish only system... and the reality (or at least in my opinion and experience) the state of health of your fishes is not just more, but all-important, compared with any given test/s. I wouldn't worry, and don't believe 25ppm is a problem here. If you want to lower this, the use of live rock, a refugium/sump, macro-algae, a deeper sand bed, perhaps a plenum... even pulling out/discarding the plastic bio-media in the wet-dry would all accomplish this. Please read over our site re these ideas starting here: http://wetwebmedia.com/no3probfaqs.htm
Be chatting my friend. Bob Fenner> Lee

Nitrates and Substrates
Hi bob-
<Anthony Calfo in your service while Mr. Fenner has hit the road with the traveling Bob Show>
Your web-site has given me info overload....in a good way.
<now try browsing the site with only actinic lights on in the room and Pink Floyd music playing in the background>
For starters, I have a 55 gal salt tank. Assorted tangs, choc. chip star, green brittle, 2 peppermint shrimp,2 small urchins and a feather duster.
Tank is about 5 years old.
<just curiously...how many tangs and what kind in the 55gall?>
The substrate is a crushed coral, average size is about that of a bb.
I have a big double wheel emperor filter on the back, a Prizm protein skimmer, a magnum 350 canister that is full of bio-balls and covered with a floss filter and 1 powerhead. Lighting is 2 55w compact flour. daylights and 2 55w blues. The stronger lighting and protein skimmer are new additions in past few weeks.
<excellent...you'll appreciate them ever more in time>
I did a 15 gal water change with the nitrates between 25-50mg/l. I use a vacuum siphon and dig down into the coral . 
<the phrase "dig down" into the gravel is a bit scary... if you aren't already doing it, gravel siphon the top inch of a three to five inch substrate and no more than that. Particulates shouldn't make it much deeper if you are not overfeeding or have enough detritivores, and you stand to do more harm than good by compromising the fauna>
On recommendation from my LFS I rinsed out half of the bio-balls in tap water because they were very packed with muck. 
<I'm glad you rinsed them (although I would have used aged water from the tank from a water change before discarding it). However...for future reference... they should not accumulate any such muck. Either the pre-filter isn't working properly, there is a design flaw or perhaps you got busy or forgetful on prefilter maintenance>
I was not sure water was getting through them. Anyway, The day after the water change the nitrates were off the scale, 100+, and the fish were puffing quite rapidly. I changed another 5 gal the next day and it may have brought nitrates down a bit. But the poor fish look like they are suffocating. I use tap water that is conditioned with a chlorine/chloramine neutralizer. It checked ok when tested for nitrates.
I have had this tank for years with no major problems and my routine has not really changed. 
<if the gravel siphon was aggressive, you may have liberated noxious elements. The fact that your bio-balls accumulated any matter at all on them suggests that you a problem with nutrient export processes (which are on the mend in part with the skimmer<smile>>
The bio-ball rinse after 4 years was a first though.
<not the immediate problem... couldn't produce nitrate that fast (takes days to weeks)... it was a necessary evil>
And the recent addition of skimmer and new stronger lights.
When I was siphoning the bottom this time I moved some of the larger rocks and some large amounts of dark green or brown matter came out. I have a feeling that it was good stuff.
<not sure I follow you thinking...sounds like accumulated detritus/sediment (bad stuff most often)>
My thinking (after long conversations and lots of time on your web site) is that the increased flow in the bio-balls is producing more nitrates and that I destroyed some (or a lot) of the good bacteria in the substrate that convert nitrates. 
<I disagree on the first count if the time frame is hours to a couple of days, but I agree on the second count>
But the LFS tells me that nitrates are not that harmful
<Wow...a very broad statement ... more false than true. Small amounts of nitrate harmless or necessary for marine life, large amounts fatal... beginning with tangs, angels and butterflies>
and something else must be causing the increased respiration. I feel that I am a bit out of my league on this one. HELP!!!!
<it simply sounds to me like the misapplication of course substrate which easily traps detritus (as you have noticed) has finally caught up with you... you are making good changes to help the water quality>
They also suggested that I push the coarse crushed coral towards the back and put a layer of finer coral on top of that and then top it off with a thin layer of sand. And then never vacuum the bottom again. Is that a good idea?
<quite frankly the idea horrifies me. I am glad you are seeking second opinions. Crushed coral by virtue of its size is inherently going to trap detritus. The rule of thumb for many aquarists with a static bed of substrate (no flow trough) is 1/2 inch or less OR five inches or more. And with a deep substrate you'll need finer sand and/or adequate detritivores to keep it serviced properly. The advice of your LFS will only trap nutrients in this case>
What are your thoughts? This is a new problem for me and I want to make sure I can correct it as soon as possible.
<if it isn't now or going to be a hardcore reef tank, you do not need or want a deep substrate. You might consider siphoning most of the gravel out and only leaving a 1/2 inch behind. Any more will trap sediment too easily, but shallow media can be cleansed with good water movement which keeps sediments in suspension for nutrient export (skimmer, etc.)
The poor fish are really working the gills I hope I provided enough pertinent info. I am sorry this is so long winded but I thought it would make it easier for you to help me.
Thank you in advance Dennis
<keep reading and asking questions, bud. Best of luck, Anthony>

Snowflake Moray, Nitrates, Clown Trigger
Hi Bob, I have a 28" Snowflake Moray in a 180 gallon tank. I have had him for six years, during which time he has grown from 16". His appetite is great, eagerly eating silversides and supermarket-bought squid, scallops and shrimp. He is also pretty active for a moray, swimming about in the full light of the tank during the day. He gets along well with his tankmates, which consist of an 18" Jewel Moray, 4" Bursa Trigger, and 7" Clown Trigger. About four weeks ago, I noticed a white spot on the outside of his eyeball. I assumed it was the result of a scratch from the usual tussle at feeding time, or perhaps from accidentally scraping up against a rock. However, the spot has not gone away. It is covering 25% of his eye, and is the color of "whiteout" you use on typewriter paper (not really grey or cloudy). The shape is irregular. His behavior is still very good. He never scratches and isn't breathing heavily, nor has his appetite diminished. But, I'm puzzled as to how to rid him of this. The only step I have taken is to lower the SG to 1.017, hoping to discourage/ kill possible parasites. I'd rather not medicate if it is not necessary, and I don't have a quarantine tank large enough to house this bruiser should I decide to pull him out & medicate. Suggestions/ ideas on what this is?
<Probably a bacterial infection from some sort of physical damage. Try using one tablespoon of Epson salt per 5 gallons of water. It will help to remove fluid from behind the eye and allow the eel's immune system to rid itself of the infection.>
Also, considering the hardy yet heavy feeders I am keeping (with the probable addition of a fifth fish, likely a grouper or large angel),
<The grouper would be a better choice.>
what should my nitrate ceiling be? I'm consistently struggling to get it to 40ppm. Is that unrealistic? Is 60-100ppm acceptable long-term with these fish?
<I do not think anything over 40 to be acceptable. Try increasing the frequency and/or amounts of your water changes, aggressive protein skimming (with these guys you should have a full collection cup of skimmate the color of hot tea to coffee daily, and possibly the use of purified water.>
Also, how large and aggressive do you think the clown trigger will get in this tank?
<Fairly large and fairly aggressive. I am frankly surprised you have had not trouble with him and the other trigger, yet.>
He has a moderately bad trigger "attitude", ok with his present company, but with some temper tantrums (biting the glass when unfed, tossing shells around, etc.), and has killed a 7" Harlequin Tusk added to the tank.
Thank you for your advice! You are a great resource!
Steve
<Thank you for the compliment. I will be sure to pass it along. -Steven Pro>

Nitrates Harmful
I have just read several posts on your website regarding nitrates and thought I would throw in two cents from a couple of sources.
<Okay, thanks>
First, I called the maker of Novaqua and Amquel regarding the use of their products. Dr. Rofen (sp?) <correct> said that nitrates do not harm any aquatic life. Nitrates USUALLY are accompanied in the water by other organic compounds that are harmful to aquatic life. The scientific community do not have tests for these "other organic compounds". Therefore, we test for nitrates and assume that other harmful organic compounds are also present.
<This is an approximately correct statement... Nitrates by themselves are rarely harmful to captive aquatic life>
He did say that it is possible for the water to test positive or high in nitrates and not have high concentrations of the other harmful organic compounds.
<Yes>
I have read a similar comment attributed to R. Shimek (sp?)<Shimek> - nitrates are not harmful to aquatic life.
<Again... in a manner of speaking, yes>
Could this explain why my 65 gal saltwater tank regularly measures 80ppm in nitrates and the tank looks clear and free of algae?
<Could be, but there are several other possible "reasons/explanations" that would account for this>
It has been set up for years. No matter how many water changes I do, the nitrate level never comes
down. Maybe, I do not have these other organic compounds. Maybe I'm lucky?
<Could be either, both or neither>
Maybe something in the new saltwater encourages nitrate growth? (The tapwater tests 0 for nitrates).
<I do agree, concur with your conjecture re "something in new seawater" does encourage the accumulation of the end products of nitrification... on the one hand more "complete" sources of inorganic molecules... on the other a more noxious mix of chemicals that selectively poison/favor some groups of competing and bacteria-predatory organisms...>
Just some info that may be helpful.
<More outwardly leading. Bob Fenner>

Fix the env. first...
Mr. Fenner, 
thanks for the response, I do have another question if you do not mind. I am very concerned with the 160, I have huge angels, and all seem to be slowly getting worse (scraping on rocks, jerky movement). I have been treating the tank with light doses of Maracyn, but I think the high trates are the source of stress (i.e. plastic bio-balls, fluidized bed, and feeding them VHP food). After performing a 30 gal water change, the trates are right at 80ppm, my ultimate question is this, SHOULD I COPPER THE TANK?
Or should I try Maracyn2 first? It is FO tank, with some live rock (not worried about that), but I am concerned I might kill off the bacteria bed, and ultimately kill the fish with high trites as the tank recycles. I am afraid to try fresh water dips, would they help?
thanks
>>
No to coppering the tank, using any more/other antibiotics... look to the causes... you know what they are... and solve the source of the high nitrates themselves... See our previous interchange below... Do you know what I'm getting at? Work at reducing your nitrates... remove the plastic media, put in a denitrating bed, Siporax beads, Macro-algae... more live rock...
Bob Fenner
 
Nitrates
Bob,
I just started my saltwater aquarium three weeks ago. I introduced 45 lbs. of live rock and 2 lbs. of live sand 2 weeks ago. My ammonia level is a little high 
<How high? More than 1.0 ppm?>
and the nitrate level is real high.
<Again, imagine you're a pet-fish type of guy, wishing to help folks like yourself over the Net... receiving this sort of information... How much is "real high"? tens of ppm?> 
I was told I needed to do a 20% water change and this would help. Guess what? It is still the same. 
<This would have been my guess...>
By the way I have 5 snails in the tank and they are fine. What can I do to correct this problem 
<What problem? Some ammonia? At three weeks this should be... going... and I would only "do" something like a water change... if "it" was over 1.0 ppm or much of whatever life (on/in the rock, sand) was obviously dying... otherwise, such changes only forestall complete cycling (i.e. marked by the absences of ammonia)...
If you're only seeing some single digit, or even a few tens of ppm of nitrates, don't worry... We can talk about this topic on and on... but this is not of/by itself dangerous, problematical... in point of fact, this is a desirable, expected result of new set-ups of your kind...>
where I can introduce fish to my aquarium?
<When the ammonia is gone...>
Richard Pierce
"New hobbyist" >>
<Please try to be patient... "things" are progressing in your system... the die off of some of the life that is producing the ammonia will cease soon... Do check over what reference materials you have, and try to understand that (here's something easy to state that for once everyone CAN agree on), there are MANY, disparate opinions on how to go about most all procedures in the marine aquarium hobby... You will need to become an informed hobbyist, and make your own decisions (as in "nothing is decided till it's done) re alternative opinions (mine inclusive).
Bob "too philosophical this AM" Fenner>

NITRATE
hi bob, how are you doing? <Fine> I have emailed you previously about a sea anemone of mine. I really am grateful for your advice. I have a few questions about steps I need to take. in my tank right now I have 3 percula clowns, 1 maroon clown, 1 high fin cardinal, 2 red shrimp, 1 starfish, 1 purple pin cushion, 1 snail, 10 small hermit crabs, 1 medium hermit crab, and 15 pounds of live rock. I did a small water change this weekend. the nitrate rose from 20 ppm to a raging 60 ppm. <Yikes> the make up water test negative for nitrate. ammonia and nitrite are at 0. my angelfish died two days later. I have only lost three animals in five months. the question that really intrigues me is, the fish and anemone lived for three months before dying? do you think this is because of the nitrate explosion? 
<Yes, or related more definitively to the cause/s of the nitrates...> do you have any ideas on what made it rise so dramatically?
<Possibly a massive die-off on nitrifiers... or an infusion of proteinaceous material... food, some off-set by your livestock... An overactive imbalance between aerobic/anaerobic microbial life... for instance, wet-dry plastic media, fluidized bed filter, clogged particulate type... mis-supplementation with sugar-based additives...>
currently I add Phytoplex for the live rock and essential elements to make up for the skimmer and carbon filtration. do I need to start adding calcium or any other water additives to help the live rock?
<Who knows? You may not need to add anything... do you test for biomineral, alkalinity concentration?>
if I do, how should I start? what speed should I start at? what does it mean when the product says for fish, invertebrate and reef tanks only?
<Take ten (or more) giant breaths... and get ready for a bit of "brain sweat"... you need to step back a bit... from the situation and your current understandings... Do read over the set-up, maintenance sections posted on the site: www.WetWebMedia.com... esp. those on pH, Alkalinity, Calcium... in part. the FAQs areas... And avail yourself of a read through Baensch Marine Atlas v.1 and v.1 of The Modern Coral Reef Aquarium... no sense proceeding here not having a thorough grounding in what you're doing...>
I only run two 18" 50/50 at this time. I do not plan on adding anything else until I get a new lighting system. I plan to go full reef in the future. I appreciate any advice you can give to me.
Thank you for your time. James
<Read, reflect, understand James. Bob Fenner>

Re: tank problems/ Induced Nitrates
Hi Robert,
I wanted to give you an update on my tank problems. I've been doing 50% water changes daily. I borrowed my brother-in-laws wet dry from his 55 gal. tank, set that up, have the Magnum canister filter going with carbon and a Poly filter in it. I'm using the "New tank set up" dosage of Cycle. I've been taking a turkey baster and squirting the live rock a couple of times a day loosening any dead debris or sucking up any obvious areas that are disintegrating. I'm cleaning all filters twice a day. As of last night the Ammonia, Nitrites and Nitrates were within tolerable levels for the corals and inverts.
<Ahh, does sound like you've been industrious, likely have "saved the day"... congratulations.>
I'm going to continue doing 20% water changes according to the levels and how they're maintaining and using the Cycle. I've also added De-Nitrate in my wet dry to try and keep the Nitrates down as they convert.
Does it sound like I'm on track for a full recovery? At this point the corals, especially the elegance is looking much better. Any other suggestions that would help? Am I doing too much?
<Not too much, and yes... stay the course you're on... intelligently, and all will be fine. Bob Fenner>