Re: SPS Boring Algae
Better Living Through Ozone (Nutrient Export and Coral Health)  12/16/07
Mich,
<Scott F. in for Mich on this one.>
DOH! I just started running ozone a week ago, for the past few months I have been chasing a proverbial ghost.
<"Who you gonna call...?" Umm- never mind...bad 1980's movie reference.>
I couldn't figure out why these Acros were not beaming like they should. Ultimately, it was that when I set the system up, the sand I used was not thick enough for a DSB and was emitting bad stuff, but phosphate and nitrate on Salifert were registering zero (I was using Phosban as well) {must have been some type of trace amount, enough to cause problems, that coupled with very alkalinity levels as I was trying to stabilize ph!).
<Well, it has been debated that a sandbed in that "grey area" (2"-3") might be too shallow for complete denitrification, but too deep to be fully aerobic. Another one of the debates raging in our hobby- imagine that?>
I have since fixed it, started running ozone, and have noticed a difference already.
<I can imagine. Ozone, if properly administered, can provide amazing benefits for a system.>
If you were me, would you trash any affected colonies, saving the frags above the algae line? If I am interpreting your response correctly, what your saying is don't necessarily worry about the infected pieces but make darn sure the nutrient issue gone! Dude, you guys are life savers!
Tom
<As usual, Mich is right on target! It's certainly best to frag the affected colonies and salvage what you can. Seek and maintain high water quality, and your system will be in great shape sooner than you can say, "Dude, Michelle is a Chick!" Hope this helps! Regards, Scott F.>

"Algae" Problem... Nutrient Control 11/21/2007 Greetings, Bob and Crew.... <Greetings to you Dean! Mich here.> First, let me say thanks for an amazing (and informative!) website. Anytime I have a question about one of my tanks, I can count on your site to provide information I need. <Glad to hear this Dean, and on behalf of Bob and the crew, you're welcome!> Case in point. I've been having a problem in a 29-gallon saltwater tank for a few weeks now. I thought the problem was algal (or possibly diatomaceous or cyanobacterial) in nature, given the appearance of what I was seeing - a reddish-brown "film" hanging from the stems of Caulerpa at one side of my tank. See the photos DSC00004 and DSC00002. <I see.> But when touched, the film would seem to disintegrate, only to appear more thickly the next day. Anything I tried as far as spot siphoning and water changes didn't seem to be having any effect. <Some more suggestions here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nutrientcontrol.htm http://www.wetwebmedia.com/scottsh2ochgart.htm > My tank parameters are specific gravity 1.024-1.025, pH 8.2-8.4, ammonia, nitrite, and phosphate undetectable, and nitrate barely detectable. I have a protein skimmer and UV unit on the tank, and only use RO water to mix the salt. <So far so good. A refugium could be helpful. More here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/refugium.htm http://www.wetwebmedia.com/deepsandbeds.htm> When experimenting with a digital camera for a microscope, I decided to take a closer look at this stuff that's been bugging me, and it turns out to be motile! <Cool!> Ovate in shape, and moves under it's own power (not Brownian movement) <OK.> and seems to do as much rotation around the smaller end as lateral movement. See photos Img0006 and Img0007. When researching what these might be on your website, I came across this thread: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/diatomidfaqs.htm and I believe that I have the same thing! <Perhaps.> So that's at least two saltwater tanks where this has shown up. This is a tank I've had for years, although I moved it about 2 years ago, but only starting having this problem after I added some guppies that were acclimated to saltwater (which had been in the tank where the acclimation took place for over 6 months, without any signs of this). So you already answered my first question of identification - I hope my photos may be of help to anyone else who may have this and not be able to identify it. <I do wish they were slightly more magnified. Would like to see more of the insides.> My only remaining question is "Does anyone have a clue how to get rid of this???"! <Heehee! Can be done! See the links included above.> I have corals and anemones in the tank, so keeping the lights off isn't a great option. <No, and the nutrients will still be there, just in a different form temporarily.> Many thanks in advance, <You're welcome Dean.> and continued good wishes for you (and the website!) in the future. <Thank you for your well wishes. Mich.> Dean

Skimming Gelbstoff, Gilvin & CDOM. Removing water coloration – ozone – 09/06/07
Dear Crew,
<Paul.>
I've searched far and wide on WWW but can't find a reference to a skimmer that can skim yellowing compounds, such as Gelbstoff, Gilvin and Chromophoric Dissolved Organic Matter (CDOM). Which skimmer or types of skimmers are known to be able to skim these unsightly compounds?
<Every skimmer can to some extent, therefore yellow water is usually only a problem in heavy stocked systems with too few/small water changes. To maximize the efficiency of the skimmer consider a large skimmer that produces very tiny bubbles. It highly depends on your tank volume which models can be used. Compare models of different manufacturers adequate to your tank's size and read about experiences of fellow hobbyists. Anyway, your most important weapon to remove yellowing compounds is ozone. Many skimmer models can be equipped (sometimes with a little DIY skills) with an ozonizer. So, ensure your future skimmer can be used in combination with an ozonizer if your aim is to remove as much of the yellowing compounds as possible. See also http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marphysf.htm. and the linked FAQs.>
I know that carbon filtration can remove these compounds but if a skimmer can remove them, I'm "killing two birds with one stone."
<Even the best skimmers won’t remove as much as a combination of carbon filtration with this skimmer.>
Thanks, Paul.
<Cheers, Marco.>

Skimming Gelbstoff   8/24/07
Dear Crew:
<Paul>
Are there any protein skimmers that can remove Gelbstoff (yellowing compounds) from the water column?
Thanks!
<Mmm, this is a German word referring to organic molecules very generally that contribute to "color" (yellowing) in water... Such material is removed (particularly phobic carbon chains) via skimming to some degree... Better skimmers, more so... Most settings, folks would/will be further served by utilizing some filter carbon in addition. Bob Fenner>

Moss... ? Do You Mean Algae? Nutrient export   8/23/07
Hi Crew,
<Hi Alan, Mich helping out.>
Just a short question. Will moss take in nitrate?
<Mmm, not sure what you're referring to as moss. I presume you don't mean the kind that grows on rock in the woods. But I'm not sure what you're referencing here.>
My purpose is to put it into my sump and hopefully will help to reduce algae growth.
<There are beneficial macro algae that will fill this role quite effectively. I, personally, would avoid Caulerpa. My favorite is Chaetomorpha. It generally grows well and is easy to find. Gracilaria is another excellent choice. You can read more here and the related links in blue:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/greenalg.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/refugium.htm >
Thanks in advance.
<Welcome! Mich>
Cheers
Alan

Filter Media/Large Commercial Systems 7/5/07
I just found your website while doing research on toxin adsorption. You could spend weeks here; it's great.
Since I don't have that much time, could someone tell me if there are lower cost alternatives to using bulk, granular, activated carbon as a filter medium in 2,000 gallon food fish tanks?
GAC must be priced for its potential to form diamonds in the future.
<Gary, if this is a marine system, you may want to invest in a commercial skimmer. Prices for these are
$700 and up. Here is a link to one site, but a Google search should produce many more. http://www.aquatictech.com/skimmers.htm
I know of no other media that would be less expensive than carbon, Mr. Fenner may have some input here. You would get a better price per pound if you bought in bulk. You may want to contact some of the manufacturers of carbon for pricing in this regard.>
Thanks.
<You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)>
Gary

Nutrient Control= Algae Control - 06/27/07
Hi There,
<Hey! Scott F. in tonight!>
Love your site. I've been using it since I've started my 46 gallon marine aquarium 3 years ago. I searched all the algae related issues, but I didn't see situations that I considered the same as mine. I perform a 10% water change every week and haven't changed my regimen since I've owned it.
<I love it when hobbyists get habitual about water changes- great practice!>
However, for the past 3 months, I've had this terrible brown algae problem. It is extremely hair-like in nature, which isn't unusual according to the articles I've read. The part that gets me is that the day after I perform a tank cleaning, the hair algae is growing back quickly. To get rid of it, I scrub off any surfaces that possess it, including the 8 lb live rock that I have in there. Some of the artificial pieces are bleached each week to remove all the growth. By the time the week ends, my tank is completely brown again and the hair algae is about 1/4" in length.
<Ahh, relatively common, yet exasperating problem.>
About 4 months ago, I changed my light fixture to a dual fixture equipped with a marine Glo bulb to go along with the Aqua Glo bulb. All the pink growth that I had turned white (from what I could gather it was related to light shock), and it's finally starting to turn pink again. How do I stop the algae? Should I be testing for something else?
<Well, the key to control of virtually any algae is nutrient control. There are a lot of things that you can do, as we'll see in a minute. I would also test for substances like phosphate or silicate, both of which are major contributors to nuisance algae blooms.>
I only have a Clownfish, Royal Gramma, and Cleaner Shrimp in there. My numbers I've tested for are nitrate - 0, ammonia - 0, ph - 8.0, and nitrite - 0. And my water temp is 80 degrees.
Any ideas?
Jim
<Well, Jim, there are lots of possibilities. The water parameters that you mention seem good, but there is something in there that is fueling these blooms. Likely suspects are the aforementioned phosphates and silicates. Start by investigating your source water. Most tap water sources do contain phosphates, and in some instances, silicates. If you don't already- utilize a reverse osmosis/deionization system to purify your tap water before you mix it with salt. Remember, if your source water contains these "algae fuels", every time you faithfully execute your water changes, you're re-fueling the nuisance algae bloom. Next, do utilize some form of chemical filtration media in your system, such as activated carbon, Poly Filter, or the like, and replace it regularly. Also, be sure to feed carefully, not allowing excesses of food, or packing juices from frozen foods to enter the tank...These juices are absolute "rocket fuel" for algae blooms. Carefully rinse food before feeding, and feed without letting these juices enter the display aquarium. Another thought would be to grow and harvest some "competitive" macroalgae, such as Chaetomorpha, in your system's sump, which will help compete against the nuisance algae for available nutrients. Maintain a steady, high pH and consistent alkalinity. Keep water movement vigorous within the aquarium. Attention to these details, along with your continued good husbandry habits, will ensure that you'll defeat this nuisance algae invasion. Good luck in your fight! Regards, Scott F.>

Tap water preparation, stocking questions. Another Nutrient Export Devotee!  6/23/07
Crew-
<Scott F. your Crew member tonight.>
Thanks, as always. I've taken to reading the daily FAQs, now that I've been able to research most of my common problems. On to my question. I am currently using tap water for my 40 reef and 50 FOWLR. I am getting great growth, even from some SPS. I take great care of my tank, doing 5-10% water changes every few days.
<I LOVE to hear that!>
The tank has been up for 6 months or so and is currently getting a diatom bloom. I have recently replaced the bulbs, and I wash all my frozen food, feed lightly, take all other suggested steps ala WWM directive.
<Awesome husbandry...My eyes are welling with tears of joy...>
I believe that there may still be some lingering silicates or phosphates that are coming in with my water changes.
<That would be my first guess, too. If you don't use reverse osmosis or deionization to treat your tap water before mixing it with salt, you're probably bringing in phosphates or silicates that way. Every time you do a water change, you're simply "refueling" the algae. I would highly advise investing in an RO/DI unit. Do test your source water for phosphates, nitrates and silicates, and you'll probably be shopping for a unit pretty quickly!>
Currently for water changes, I fill a Rubbermaid garbage can with tap water, aerate it for several days with Amquel+, then make saltwater from that water, heat and aerate and
circulate that for a couple days and then into the tank it goes. I have it set so that each step is happening at once, so I can continually do water changes every 3-4 days.
<Really sounds fine, with the exception of a lack of source water pre-treatment, as indicated above. I am drooling (that's geeky, I know- but who cares?) over your consistent, frequent water change schedule!>
Anyway, the short of it is I am wondering if I can dose a small amount of Kalk into the mixed saltwater to precipitate out what phosphates may be present. Would calcium hydroxide preferentially precipitate phosphates or the alkalinity first?
<The real issue here is to determine what the level of phosphate is in the water to begin with. Better to simply eliminate it from the start, and then use calcium hydroxide to supply free calcium to your system (as determined by it's calcium demand-which you can find out by testing!).>
I am currently using Oceanic, which is relatively high in Ca, but I would be able to switch to another brand to find one that's more alk oriented (I seem to remember an article by Steven pro, right? He came and spoke at TCMAS not too long ago)
<Steve's a good friend of mine...Just chatted with him today, in fact. A great guy and wonderful friend of the hobby!>
Also I am wondering if I could get some of the nuisance algae growing in the water change container so as to use up the nutrients fueling it before it goes to the tank.
Interesting thought-utilizing algae in your storage container- but I think it's putting the "cart before the horse", as they say. Sooo much better to pre-treat the source water before use, and employ continuous nutrient export processes (i.e., your water changes, "purposeful" macroalgae growth in the system, chemical filtration and protein skimming).>
I know in the end I am just putting off getting an RO/DI,
but I'm a poor college student, so I gotta do what I gotta do.
<I hear ya...At the very least, you might be able to find one of those water stores or a vender of some sort that can sell you RO/DI water. Id id that when I was in college, and it was less expensive than an RO unit...Kind of a pain, though. Basically, my point is that it's easier to reduce/eliminate unwanted substances from the source water before you use it than it is to get it out of your system.>
Also, in my 40 reef I currently have an Ocellaris Clownfish and a Coral Beauty (who nips every now and again, but seemingly only at leathers).
<An unfortunate habit- but a trade off worthwhile to me nonetheless when keeping this lovely fish!>
I would love to eventually add a Neon Goby, a Sixline Wrasse and maybe a Firefish. I would do the Goby first, then the Firefish, then the Sixline, probably in month increments as they come out of QT. Am I overcrowding?
<Good order of introduction, but I think it is a bit of a crowd in this sized aquarium. I'd eliminate the Sixline, as it may become a behavioural problem in this sized aquarium with a relatively docile population. I'd stop adding fish with the Neon and the Firefish.>
I've got a built-in fuge and air driven skimmer (I'm using double limewood airstones) supplemented by a Prizm skimmer.
<Great! Make sure the skimmers are cranking out skimmate regularly.>
Once again, as always, thanks!!
Wes
<Well, Wes- I'm really thrilled to hear how well you're doing things. Your husbandry is very good! My only recommendation is to employ some form of water pre-treatment for your source water, and you'll be in great shape. Do see if you can find an inexpensive or used unit. Best of luck, and continued success! Keep sharing your husbandry practices and ideas with others! Regards, Scott F.>

Re: Another Nutrient Export Fan (Cont'd.)   6/24/07
Thanks for the quick reply. I'm blushing.
<Ha! Well- fellow nutrient export geeks get me going!>
Just gotta keep convincing my fiancé that all the time is worth it. I live in a 3rd floor apt with no elevator, so hauling the RO needed for my kinda water changes would be hellish. I am trying to convince her we could use the RO/DI for ourselves mainly, but it's been a tough sell.
<Yup- the old "We should get a (insert expensive aquarium gadget here) because it will be great for our house- and it also works for the aquarium" pitch is a real "Hail Mary" shot...almost never works for me! But I hand it to you for trying! LOL>
Ah well, with all things patience usually wins. For now things are coming along well, so I'm taking it slowly. I do keep quite a bit of Chaeto in my fuge, and it's growing, so I
know that something is happening there nutrient export-wise. Skimmate comes, just always takes tuning to get a good amount of dry foam.
<Well, any skimmate is better than none, IMO>
Wish I had the money for another Aqua C Remora (that's what is on the FOWLR).
<Well, you'll get there eventually. Makes it all the more sweet when you do..>
I also thought I'd mention that I have some cinder blocks in the FOWLR tank that are getting quite full of life--tunicates, coralline, small feather dusters, etc. The pH has been stable, and I've noticed no excess nuisance algae, in fact, much less than with my reef.
<Interesting..>
I think I might have read somewhere on WWM that using something like cinder blocks wasn't recommended, but for my tank (a 50 x-x tall), it's the best way to aquascape.
<Well, it's definitely a different approach! Some people use 'em to support aquariums. This is the first time of heard of someone using them IN an aquarium! I was wondering if they leach stuff that has a negative impact on water quality...Apparently not, in your case!>
Plus, my Fuzzy Dwarf Lion loves the caves. It's my 'industrial' looking tank.
<If the animals are happy and healthy, who cares?>
Yet again, thanks.
<My pleasure!>
A few weeks ago I caught my fiancé on wwm, so I know I'm in good shape for the future. Wes
<Wow- that's a huge breakthrough! Who knows- maybe she'll want a system of her own one day! Good luck! Regards, Scott F.>

Exporting Nutrients to Fight Nuisance Algae! – 6/19/07
Crew!
<Scott F. your Crew Member tonight>
First of all, thanks for all the help your site has provided even though I have never posted a question!!
<We're happy to be of service!>
I have recently (12weeks) setup a FOWLR 180litre (sorry I'm a metric fanboy!!) with 30kg live rock and 7.5cm live/aragonite sand substrate with a total lighting wattage of 60 watts split evenly across marine white and actinic blue fluorescent tubes (on for 9hrs a day). For water movement, I have two Seio M620 (2400l/hr) power heads and the filter outlet (internal Juwel thing). Protein skimming is achieved with a Deltec MCE 300. My salinity is currently at 1.022 (which I am raising to 1.024) from instant ocean and RO water. Other params are: NH3 = 0, NO2 = 0, NO3 = ~25 and PO4 ~0.15.Livestock are a green spotted Puffer, Fuzzy Dwarf Lion, a 3-4" Blue-legged hermit and half a dozen or so Turbo and Astrea snails. So here lies my problem: Hair (algae)! The crab is usually good at stirring up the substrate and picks off a lot of algae. Recently (7-10 days) he has become very lethargic (but not when I offer him food (such as a minute chuck of silverside, etc)) and as an effect, I believe the hair algae is taking a hold. I currently change 10% of my water once every 2-3 weeks. I am now stepping this up to once a week to try and rid the nutrients in the tank.
<The stepped up water change schedule is definitely a benefit, but do check your source water to assure that it is of the highest quality (RO/DI treated water is useful here, but make certain that your TDS are low to non-existent, or it may be time to replace your membranes). The nitrate and phosphate readings seem to reflect some buildup of nutrients within the system, caused by either your feeding/husbandry/bioload and/or source water.>
My Lion has only just started eating and as such has been eating every other day - maybe 1/3 of a silverside between him and the GSP. I have read your site and have a stack of possibilities I would be very grateful if you would comment on: 1)Add a green macroalgae to help compete for nutrients
<Certainly an assist, but the addition of "competitive" macroalgae is just another component of a multi-pronged attack on nuisance algae. Nonetheless, the growth and regular harvest of macroalgae is an affective adjunct to other nutrient export processes. I'd use a fast-growing species such as Chaetomorpha.>
2) Add another crab (but this doesn't account for why the other is sluggish)
<I'd rather attack the root cause of the algae problem, excessive nutrients.>
3)Add a Flame Angel
<As above- adding bioload to an aquarium is generally not a good way to combat the problem! While herbivorous fishes and animals can be of benefit, once again, I implore you to go after the root cause...>
4) Reducing feeding to twice a week
<I'd rather see you reduce the quantity, but maintain a regular feeding schedule, taking care to avoid excess food accumulating in the aquarium.>
I am wary of adding livestock to combat my problems as it's cure rather than prevention.
<Excellent point; I'm glad that you realize this!>
Could it be that the messy eating habits of the puffer and lion may require a more herbivor-istic tank mate?
<More like "the messy eating habits of these fishes require more aggressive nutrient export processes...">
It's easy to echo everyone else's comments - but keep up the good work!!! Thanks, Neil
<Well, Neil, I think that this is a frustrating, yet easily solvable problem. Continue a frequent water change schedule with high-quality source water (again check those RO membranes). Utilize chemical filtration media, such as activated carbon, Poly Filter, etc., and replace them frequently. Continue to use good water movement to help keep the water highly oxygenated. Adjust your excellent skimmer to make sure that you are getting regular production of skimmate (daily would be ideal.). Consider increasing the sand bed depth to foster greater denitrification processes. Hang in there. Just keep doing these small things on a continuous basis, and you'll see the algae problems begin to diminish. Best of luck! Regards, Scott F.>

Thoughts/Suggestions For Optimizing Nutrient Export? – 06/05/07
Hi,
<<Hello>>
I’m trying to set up an effective Sump/Refugium utilizing macro algae (most likely Chaetomorpha) for nutrient export.
<<A worthwhile endeavor...though my preference is to keep the two systems/methodologies separate...i.e. in different vessels. This makes it much easier to provide/allow for their differences in application>>
I have constantly high Nitrate levels (30 ppm+) in my 130gl long tank.
<<Mmm, yes...this needs to come down>>
I don’t use RO/DI water, perhaps this is the cause of my high nitrates?
<<Is a possibility, yes...and easily tested to verify>>
Tank has been up for about 2 years, however no fish for the last 6 months or so following an outbreak of ich. System is as follows:
130gl acrylic tank (w/ 2” fine sand substrate)
<<Doubling the sand depth would likely provide some help with your Nitrate issues>>
Live Rock (75 lbs)
2 Magnum 350 filters
<<Hmm, another possible source of Nitrate. Are these employed as sediment/detritus filters? Are they cleaned at least weekly?>>
30 Gallon DIY Rubbermaid Sump containing 5 gallon Refugium (5” DSB in refuge).
<<This small refugium will be/is “helpful”...but a larger dedicated container could make all the difference here>>
Skimmer – Coralife 220 Needle Wheel Super Skimmer
<<Does this work for you? A better skimmer may be another solution...>>
Lighting (power compact w/2 10k & 2 actinics - 384W Total – on approx. 12hrs a day)
Livestock:
4 Crocea Clams (added 3 wks ago)
<<Do consider (seriously) exchanging one or both Actinic lamps for more 10K lighting>>
1 Sm brown Mushroom coral (hitchhiker from clam… cool!)
2 Blue Devil Damsels (added yesterday)
<<Not planning on keeping any other small or passive fishes then>>
4 Conch Snails
1 Med. Red Leg Hermit
2 sm. Blue Leg Hermits
Parameters:
Nitrate 30ppm
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
pH 8.2
Temp 79-82
SPG 1.022
<<Is better; even in a FO/FOWLR system to keep this at NSW levels (1.025/026), in my opinion>>
My primary question pertains to the sump/refuge and how I can optimize its effectiveness.
<<Okay>>
1st-off this is a DIY Rubbermaid sump not a commercially made sump.
<<Is still useful/efficacious>>
Originally I had the overflow going into a chamber of bio-balls as it enters sump, however I removed this about 9 months ago after reading that bio-balls can increase Nitrates.
<<To over-simplify...yes>>
The overflow now goes into a white filter sleeve with two small bags of ceramic media inside (should I increase this media?).
<<Actually mate, I would ditch them altogether...let your substrate and live rock be your bio-filter...much more efficient, and will govern/process its own Nitrate production>>
Should this overflow return be submerged, partially submerged, or is it best to be out of the sump water and drip from the filter sleeve to the sump?
<<I recommend “submerged”...helps with the noise, too>>
Currently it is submerged.
<<Very good then>>
The skimmer then skims water from the sump and returns it to the refugium w/DSB. Naturally after leaving the refuge it is pumped back up to the display tank.
<<Okay>>
In the refugium I have a small amount of Chaetomorpha and a bit of Live Rock rubble as well as two Conch snails. The Chaetomorpha has been in two weeks and does not seem to be growing and starting to bleach some.
<<Something amiss...>>
I have about 30 watts of light on the refuge 24/7.
<<This species of macroalgae appreciates/needs a “rest” period. Try lighting the refugium on a reverse-daylight schedule>>
Should I increase this?
<<Doubling the wattage would also be helpful, yes>>
Change the lighting cycle?
<<Bingo!>>
Also what other inverts, sand stirrers etc. would you recommend adding to the refuge.
<<If your intent is merely reduction of nitrogenous/organic compounds and Brittle Star would be useful...if you also with to produce planktonic and epiphytic matter to supplement the display then consider a few specimens of a small Nassarius snail species (and remove the Conchs!)>>
And should I aerate the sump.
<<Not necessary...and creates a huge mess with salt creep>>
I currently have a small air stone in the sump (not the refugium).
<<With your skimmer and good water flow this is not necessary>>
The refuge seems to get decent water movement from the skimmer return.
<<Indeed>>
Regarding water changes, I have recently increased my 25% water change to twice a month as opposed to once a month. However I was thinking of moving to a 5% two times weekly regimen. Would you recommend this?
<<Some might...I don’t. “Very frequent” and “very small” water changes have little benefit in my experience...along with oftentimes exposing livestock to constantly changing/bouncing water chemistry or water that still has ongoing chemical processes from being used too soon. Your current regimen of 25% twice-monthly is about ideal...in my opinion>>
2ndly (or is that 3rdly) I originally was planning to make this a predator tank, however have now decided to make it a more docile/eventually reef community (Tangs, Clown(s), etc.).
<<Do be aware/do your research beforehand...neither Tangs nor Clowns can/should be considered “docile”>>
This being the case I’m thinking it should be safe to add a cleaner crew to the main display. Any specific suggestions?
<<Bristle worms, Nassarius and Cerith snails, small Brittle Stars...>>
Do you suggest a cleaner crew in both main system and refugium or just one or the other?
<<Will find their way to either/both>>
Last two questions (promise).
<<No worries>>
You probably noticed I tend to have a 3 to 4 degree temperature swing as listed above.
<<Yes...and I don’t consider this to be a problem>>
I’ve been considering getting a chiller to try and control this.
<<If you like...though you could try a small fan mounted to blow across the surface of the tank (or the sump...or both!) before making the larger investment>>
Do you think this temperature swing will be detrimental to my livestock as it stands now?
<<I do not>>
And lastly I know my system may be “under-lit” for keeping the clams and the one coral I have long term.
<<Agreed...though merely changing all to 10K bulbs could prove enough>>
I keep both the clams and mushroom high in the tank (8-10 inches from water surface).
<<Okay>>
Would you suggest more watts?
<<If you wish to keep Actinic lighting...yes>>
Perhaps MH lights?
<<This is “my” preferred choice>>
Any other suggestions for reducing Nitrates are greatly appreciated.
<<Have made several...>>
Thanks for all your help/advice.
Jameel
<<Is a pleasure to share. EricR>>

Dilution is <one short-term> the <semi-> solution to pollution   12/6/06
Hi crew
<Hi there, Mich here.>
I was wondering if you could help me out.  I've read a little on the subject but I was hoping you can clear it up.
<Will try.>
What I am wanting to do is replace weekly or bi-weekly water changes with a daily one gallon water change.
<OK>
My system consists of 120 gallon reef tank 20 gallon refugium and 30 gallon sump.
<For a total of 170 gallons.>
I was wondering if this will be enough for nutrient export. I have tried it for a week and its a lot less stressful on my fish.
<Worth a try.  Keep an eye on your water chemistry.  Less stress on the fish (and the fishkeeper) is always a good thing.  In theory I think a reduction in stress may even help reduce fish waste.>  
Anyways just looking for an alternative to my ten gallon weekly water change.
<If it's easier it's worth a try.  In general you have been changing 10 gallons of water a week versus 7 gallons of water a week.  You may end up changing more water because it is less hassle.  Go for it!>
Thanks.
<Welcome.>

Deep Sand Beds and Trace Elements - 10/8/06
Dear Crew:
<Paul>
I have read many articles praising the ability of a DSB to remove nitrogen and phosphate from the water column.  I have also noted the postings that urge an adequate flow of water to prevent the DSB from accumulating detritus and becoming a nutrient sink.  As a result, I have a DSB in my aquarium system with a 10x water flow.
<Good>
Nevertheless, here's the question that continues to trouble me:
If a DSB's can import nitrogen and phosphate from the water column, how is the same nitrogen and phosphate exported from the DSB?
<Mmm, a few ways...>
With macro algae filters, the answer is easy:  you simply trim the algae to export the nitrogen and phosphate from the aquarium system.  What is the equivalent export action with respect to RDSB's?
Are we to assume that garbage just keeps going in with nothing ever coming out?
Thanks very much!
Paul.
<Similar to the algae growth mechanism, phosphate is incorporated biologically in a trophic web of chemical feeding microbes through larger life forms... And a good deal is insolubilized... converted from available phosphate to much-less solid forms of phosphate compounds. Here's a link to a nice piece re this topic by RHF: http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/sept2002/chem.htm
Bob Fenner>

Phytoplankton, reactor   7/4/06
Hi folks. I have been wondering if a AquaMedic Phytoplankton reactor would be useful in my reef tank. I have a 180 gal. reef tank with a DSB (
275gal. total system water). Two refugiums are also running on this system.
<Very nice>
The first is a live rock with a DSB with blue light. The second is an upstream fuge with Chaeto and no sand with light running opposite. The tank
has been running for seven months and I have gone thru the predictable algae bloom sequences. But the most fascinating event is when the macro algae
vanished for no apparent reason. During the fifth and the sixth month I was battling Derbesia turf in numerous location on my live rocks. Early in the set-up I put two Emeral
<Bam! Emerald>
crabs in hopes to control this Algae. In addition I put a Sailfin Tang and a bunch of Hermits crabs and a variety of Algae eating snails to control it. Since the snails eat only Micro-Algae and the Emeralds might eat the turf Algae I wasn't convinced that they were guilty of eliminating all of turf Algae. My own theory is that I think the loss
of algae was from the maturing of the whole system and the uptake of nutrients from the two refugiums.
<Very likely the principal factor>
All parameters of the tank are in normal range. Phosphate were high in the first three months and then zero.
Currently my fish and coral list is Purple tang, Sailfin tang, Lemon Peel Angel, Lawnmower Blenny, Mandarin Goby, Sandsifting Goby. Coral: Ricordea,
Euphyllia ancora, Frogspawn, Mushroom, Feather Duster, Crocea Clam, pulsing Xenia.
My questions is does the lighted refugiums/scraping of algae off the grass provides enough Phytoplanton to feed the tank on a constant basis?
<Mmm, plankton... is floating not attached... but likely the reproductive events of the glass-attached algae are contributing some algal plankton>
I like the Idea of the reactor feeding some of my inverts plus provide foods for the zooplankton in my refugiums.
<Me too>
But Is it already happening anyway?
<To some extent, yes>
My other question is how do Copepods travel from the refugiums to feed my fish and Corals?
<Yes... get "sucked up", pumped, or overflowed (depending on make-up of your systems components...)>
Does it take some human intervention like stirring of sand or shaking of the refugiums?
<Mmm, nope>
Thanks for taking the time to answer every e-mails that come your way including mine.
Sincerely
Stephan
<Thank you for writing, sharing. Bob Fenner>

Nutrient issues, SW    6/6/06
I have a 72 gal reef tank and I can't get my nitrates to drop below 20ppm and my phosphate to drop below 1.0. Before I removed my hang on the back filter my nitrates where 40ppm. For the phosphates I put a mess bag full of phos-X in the refuge tank. I have been changing about 25% of the water with store bought water the last month 1/2(doesn't contain any nitrate), but that hasn't seemed to work. So I added live sand bed to the refuge tank, and about 20lbs to the main tank (I did this about 1 week ago). my sand bed is about 4" deep. I have about 75 lbs of live rock. In the refuge tank I have a protein skimmer, UV sterilizer, a 20,000k light with 2 clumps of Caulerpa. Should the just kept doing the water changes, or leave it alone and let everything take it course?
<... Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/nitratesmar.htm
and the linked files above. There are a few approaches to chemical nutrient/concentration control... and some indeterminate synergistic troubles in allowing their accumulation. Bob Fenner>

Dirty Sand 6/5/06
I have a brown red film that will go away at night and comes in about 2 hrs after the lights come on. What would be causing this? Is it the lighting I am using. I have a power compact 260 watt with 2 actinic blue and 2 12k lights?
<Most likely Cyanobacteria, a photosynthetic bacteria.  Can indicate a nitrate or phosphate problem.  Also common in new tanks and will often cycle out after a while with no action needed.>
<Chris>

I thought aquariums were supposed to ease stress? Is it time to call it quits?
Hi Bob,
<Actually this is Adam Jackson with you tonight.>
It's been some time since I've written to Wet Web. A year at least. But today I find myself loathing my tank (as usual) as I sit reading my email.
<Sorry to hear that.>
I've had a 75 gallon reef for 5 years, and it has never looked the way I envision it.
<I to am guilty of being overly critical of my own work.>
I've taken advise from so many people: "too much food, too much light, skimmer too small, not enough water flow, poor filtration, poor town water, " I've heeded the advise of all these people.
<While all of the comments are general…all have some merit to them.>
I run 2 skimmers
<What type?>
, six very powerful powerheads, jetting in every direction, feed so little I'm afraid everyone is starving
<How much are you feeding?>
, turn down the lights after only 6 hours, and after all is done, try to see something for my efforts. Instead, I sit in my living room and listen to the constant hum and buzz of powerheads, filters and skimmers, as the Cyano bacteria creeps ever further throughout the system. As if this ugly nuisance algae isn't enough, the tank is plagued by Aiptasia with 2 inches long stinging tentacles that refuse to die, no matter what I assault them with!
<You have a nutrient problem here. What is you water change regime? What is your stocking level? What type and how much substrate do you have? What are water chemistry readings, specifically nitrates and phosphates? What is your source water. How old are your light bulbs and what type of lighting do you use? I apologize for all the questions but they are necessary for me to help you. Also if you don’t already have one please look into the benefits of setting-up a dedicated refugium as a means of nutrient export.>
I, at this point, only have one more question left to ask you and all your staff:
Is it time to call it quits?
<Of course not.>
I seriously await your response.
Pam
<Adam J.>

Foamy water & Skimmer on overdrive 10/28/05
I have a 70gal reef tank, established 3 years now. I did a 10 gal. water change yesterday using Red Sea Salt (same brand I always use) my water is very foamy, and my BakPak II skimmer is now going crazy, filling to the top with pretty clear but mildly slimy water every 3 minutes. I unplugged it over night last night (so I could go to bed). All inhabitants seemed to be doing well this morning so I did another 5 gal water change (to flush it out more).
<Good>
Kept it off all day today (while at work) and when I came home the refugium underneath is full of foam just from the sump hose flowing into it. As soon as I plug in the skimmer it fills to overflow with the slimy water. I did not use anything that could have had soap. Do you have any idea? Still the animals seem fine. Carol
<Hmm, some thing/s are either going on in your system (a mass spawning event for instance... by small animals in the substrate...) or someone has poured in some other something that causes mass foaming. In either case, dipping, toweling off the excess foam and the water changes are the route to go here. Bob Fenner>

Nutrients in a reef, what?
Hello I'm not quite sure what they mean about nutrients in a reef? << No problem.  Basically this means "left over food".  When you feed your fish or corals little pieces of food don't get consumed.  Also, fish waste is another big source of nutrients.  All that food and waste break down into simple molecules.  The two main items we are usually concerned with are phosphate and ammonia based molecules.  These are basically fertilizers for your tank and are the food source for algae, Cyanobacteria and bunch of stuff most aquarists don't want growing their tank.  So, to have a clean and healthy reef tank, we need to eliminate, remove,  or prevent such nutrients from entering the system.  I hope that helps. Adam B. >>

Nutrient Control Issues
Hey,
<hey.  Ryan with you today>
Thank you for all the help in the past.  Today I noticed some things in
my tank.  First off I noticed that a lot of my tube worms were
gone...they were the worms with 2 long appendages that would feel
around.  On the same rock I noticed that what looked like
twigs...(single twigs sticking straight up) were also gone, from about
60 only 5-6 are left. <Many setups lack the required nutrients to keep these guys alive> My aragonite has started to turn green, purple and
pink on the surface. Finally one of the rocks has a black algae that
just boomed.  Does this mean there is something going on in the tank. <Yes, algae growth from excess nutrients is my guess>
It has been operational for 2 1/2 months. <OK> The parameters are SG 1.0225,
pH 8.2, nitrite 0ppm, ammonia 0ppm, nitrate ~10ppm .  I recently added 2
candy cane corals and I also did the DIY moonlighting
http://www.kaotica.com/frag/diy/moonlight/.  Is there any cause for
concern...I'm sure it is probably just the tank running its course but I
would like to make sure.
<I'm not sure exactly what's causing your outbreak because you didn't include any info about your setup.  Perhaps this article will be more helpful:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/nutrientcontrol.htm.  Good luck! Ryan>
Thank you very much,
Todd Hawman

Re: New article
Hey Bob,
<Scotter>
Glad to hear that the book is coming into the home stretch now.
<Thank goodness!>
  Looking
forward to checking it out while kicking back under a palm tree somewhere
very tropical....yeah right...in my dreams!  Argghhh!
<Oh! Do you want to come on out to our new digs on the Big Island?, We're set to close escrow end of April... and need help locating, buying, moving furniture... some vacation now!>
I'll settle for an arm
chair with Leilani and Pepper (my dogs) by my side...oh.. and Nadine I guess
too! (hah! hah!)  Anyway, here is my latest effort as an "author."  This
article is about nutrient control and export, which seems to be one of the
main topics that we receive daily on the FAQ's.
<Yes!>
Feeling rather confident
with my first "publishing" foray, I bit the bullet and sent it to FAMA as
well.  Hopefully this will be a useful addition to the WWM library.
<Good all the way around.>
Regards,
Scott F.
<Will post today. Bob F>