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FAQs about the Longnose Hawkfish

Related Articles: Longnose Hawkfish, Hawkfishes, Hawkfishes of the Cook Islands

Related FAQs:  Hawkfishes 1Hawkfishes 2Hawkfish Identification, Hawkfish Selection, Hawkfish Behavior, Hawkfish Compatibility, Hawkfish Systems, Hawkfish, Feeding, Hawkfish Disease, Hawkfish Reproduction,

A three-part stocking change up- and saving some Hermits lives?       1/21/16
A multi-faceted stocking question for you all today.
<Hotay!>
Its been three years of happy reefing since I contacted you guys last. Thank you so much for your incredible online resource. I appreciate WetWebMedia so much for all you do.
<Ahh; thank you for your kind, rewarding comments>
I have a 110 pseudo-reef tank (a few varieties of mushrooms and Zoas nothing else size 60"x22"x20") that is bare bottom. It is currently stocked with a Flame Angel, Mystery Wrasse, Single Ocellaris Clown Fish, and Longnose Hawkfish. Since it is bare bottom, I have a handful of Trochus snails (my preference) as my clean up crew but no other inverts. I'm thinking a few big changes I want to briefly run by you. First, I'm thinking about darning and adding sand for aesthetic purposes. If I do that I would love to add a bunch of hermit crabs.
<Am keen for the sand, negative on the Hermits>
I know Hawkfish can be hit and miss with the small hermits (but the Longnose apparently has a smaller mouth and therefore is not as dangerous on this front?- or this internet misinformation?).
<Mis-; Oxycirrhites will pick them out; eat them>
I am mostly interested in the larger scarlet, Halloween, electric blue variety. I have been unable to find if these critter are endangered in such an environment.
<See my (and others) opinions re Anomuran use; archived on WWM.
In addition to the sand and Hermits, I'm thinking of two new additions. I'm pondering a single yellowtail damsel. I've heard Damsels are… difficult fish, which is why I have always avoided them, but I think the rich blue color would be an awesome addition. I have also read the yellowtail is a social species and a single addition may amplify aggressiveness?
<The social Pomacentrids are best kept in small, odd-numbered groupings; stock 3, 5...>
The final addition I am considering is a Melanarus Wrasse (put that new sand bed to use!). I know they are prone to attacking cleanup crew but was hoping if you could shed some light on their behavior towards Trochus and the large hermits mentioned.
<It may well eat these in time>
I also have concerns with a Mystery Wrasse in the tank. Due to the cost and beauty I'll pick the Mystery every time!
Thanks in advance!
<Welcome! Bob Fenner>

Long nose hawk fish       6/19/15
Hello the crew @ WWM911,
Our long nose (+2 years in our care) has not been seen to be eating in the last couple of weeks.
<Happens... might've inhaled summat that didn't/doesn't agree with it... like a Bristleworm>
Details: He is about 5” long and is starting to look a little pale.
<Another clue>
goes crazy at feed time hovering in a vertical pose at the feed site but doesn’t seem to be attempting to take any food
He has always eaten shrimp (Mysid) and taken medium - large marine pellets (always been a good eater)
I’m usually away so "she who must be obeyed” mostly feeds them, so I have noticed this in recent weeks only.
He has a gaping (curved upper) beak that is never closed (is this an issue?)
<Might be... damage... preventing it, making it feel like not eating>
The water quality is always very good (we have very low mortality with corals and the anemones that sprout as though on steroids)
<Mmm, might have gotten stung...>
The tank is 6’x2’x2’ (about 170US gal in your currency)
Please help as I would like to get “Jock” back to good health again?!
<Just good care and patience here is about all one can do>
I notice many reports in the forums about Hawkfish being aggressive? I have to comment in 3 years (tank age) we have always kept a pair of flame hawk fish and they have always kept themselves amused with each other, and this is the second Long nosed we have had and in all this time we have kept banded shrimp and scarlet skunk shrimp.
<When small, molting, so much Cirrhitid food items>
The camel shrimp however have disappeared one at a time over a year or so from 5 -> 0 (we have just found a mantis shrimp in the tank which we have suspected over the last year by the clicking sound heard occasionally). However we have never seen the hawks chasing or attacking anything in the tank (we have 2 butterflies, 5 angels, 5 assessors, a wrasse, 2 tangs, a blenny, 2 gobies and 2 clowns).
Many thanks in advance
Mars.
<Cheers, Bob Fenner>
Re: Long nose hawk fish       6/19/15

A little more on Jock the "long nosed” his gaping beak has been this way for quite some time, our tank guy says this is unusual from his experience but not completely sure, we currently feed: large, small and medium marine pellets; frozen mysis and brine shrimp; marine green mix; a marine meat mix and frozen rotifer for coral feed only once a day. I’m trying to get a small extra feed in just now by chasing the other fish away (Jock has had the habit of landing on your hand since a young age at feed times so he is not frightened by this and hopefully will offer extra opportunity to feed) as the others [except for the gobies] are voracious eaters.
Thanks again
Mars
<Try some Grass/Glass Shrimp... almost always sold as/in freshwater, but some are brackish and marine. Bob Fenner>
Re: Long nose hawk fish       6/23/15

Thanks for the advice Bob.
<W>
But feeding him doesn't seem to be the problem. He is going for food but can’t seem to do strike accurately nor do anything with his beak (he can’t open it or close it - the upper beak is bent open and a little twisted).
<Perhaps nervous issue; coordination... blindness?>
I have painstakingly used an eye drop and got some food into his beak (mysis shrimp) which he has swallowed but mostly he moves around franticly and only twice in many attempts this way he has taken a little food. Is this a common problem with the beak?
<Not common>
I thought nothing of it because he has been this way for some time now (but i guess it will not end well for the poor bugger).
He has not been stung by anemone, a few of our fish have from time to time the mark is quite obvious.
I won’t bother you again with this after this email?!
<Never a bother. I/we are "there", here for you; wanting to avail you whatever assistance we can. Bob Fenner>

Hawkfish compatibility
Will a Longnose Hawkfish be OK with a shrimp goby and pistol shrimp pair or will they eventually get eaten?
<Mmm, there might be trouble w/ the Alpheids and the Hawk... either might be harmed by the other in time>
  Same for Hawkfish with Jawfish?
<These should be fine together>
 Will the Hawkfish eat hermit crabs and snails?
<I have known of Oxycirrhites that have consumed Hermits>
 Thanks in advance for your revered opinion.
Lance in Nebraska
<Welcome; Bob in San Diego>

Longnose Hawk Fish fins missing    3/4/12
Dear WWM Crew;
My father has a 90 gallon reef and fish saltwater aquarium. It has been set up for about a month to a month an a couple weeks. He had a 29 gallon Bio-Cube which was also reef+fish tank. He had one small Coral Beauty, a yellow diamond backed goby, snails and a sexy dancer shrimp. After what he felt was enough research, he started the 90 gallon tank, let it cycle and then transferred all the live rock, coral (mainly all soft coral) and the fish. The tank set up is a refugium, underneath the tank we have a plant with a light which my dad said was to help establish the tank and also to keep ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates down. Anyways, about two weeks ago my dad surprised me by getting a Longnose hawk fish. It was one that our lfs owner had had for a while and although I had seen it a lot, I never closely looked at the fish. It was in a tank with other fish and one small rock.
When my dad purchased him, my dad didn't realize what that fish was supposed to look like. So after we acclimated the little guy he did wonderful! Well I did some research on him and found pictures, I compared him to the photos and everything looked the same except his tail fin and his 'dorsal' fin. His "spines" on his fin that stands up, half of it is gone and you can see a couple of spines that are sort of broke. His tail fin has clearly been bitten as well. Will his dorsal fin/spines grow back or will he forever only have half of his gorgeous fro. His tail fin is tattered and I was also wondering if it to will grow back or be forever tattered. I'm so glad my dad saved this poor fella from being eaten entirely! Thanks so much guys!!!
Kindest Regards,
Stephanie Lowmiller
<If not "too" far missing, decomposed, these fins can grow back. Bob Fenner>

Midas Blenny/Longnose Hawk fish compatibility   12/3/11
Hello Crew,
Short and sweet question today. Been browsing but have not seen anything on Midas Blenny/Longnose Hawk fish compatibility. Will these species get along (since one perches and the other is mostly a free swimmer?)
<Actually, Ecsenius and Oxycirrhites species are mostly both perchers>
We are talking 75 gallon range.
<Mmm, well, the bigger the volume, more habitat the more likely these two are likely to get along. I give good odds at this volume... more than 80%, 4 out of 5 that they'll leave each other be in this size/shape system>
Thanks
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Long Nosed Hawkfish perching   5/30/11
Hey crew,
I recently acquired about 8 Palythoas
<These are quite toxic... to other sea life, aquarists... do see WWM re this genus>
with neon green and pink highlights. Ever since introducing them, my hawk fish has spent hours sitting on top of the two furthest on the edge. They do not open while he is on them and are slow to reopen when he gets off of them. Initially I tried just shooing him off of it, but every time I turn around he is perching atop them again.
<Happens>
I'm not sure if there is any way to stop this behavior,
<Not really, no. But in time your Zoanthids will learn more and more to ignore the Cirrhitid>
and was wondering if you had any ideas? I plan on getting more zoos/Palys in the near future and if this behavior is unavoidable I may just have to trade him in, which I really don't want to do because he is a quite personable fish.
I would be grateful for any suggestions you may have.
Best regards,
Sam Sutton
<You may need to move this fish elsewhere. Bob Fenner>

Re: Heavy Metal Removers? Oxycirrhites greed    5/10/11
Forget the below.... Just wanted to tell you something that was so funny!
I have a Longnose Hawkfish and I was putting in some krill (freeze-dried) so he GRABS a piece that is obviously too big for his mouth, but as he is holding onto it, he eyes up ANOTHER piece! So as he ponders over whether he can grab the second one AND keep the one in his mouth, my purple tang and percula are approaching..... So he decides WHY NOT?? He GRABS for that second piece and misses and in the process LOSES the first one he had, ...... both pieces were stolen by above mentioned fish!!! A KRILL IN THE MOUTH IS WORTH MORE THAN......... (you finish it.... lol)
Take care!
Carrie :)
<Two or more in the tank?! B>

Longnose Hawkfish Beak Problem 10/23/10
Hello,
<Candy>
I have several saltwater aquaria. Last week I purchased via mail order from my favorite, reputable, on-line retailer the following for placement in various aquaria: 1) Pseudanthias Bimaculatus male ~ 3 inches, 2)
Odontanthias borbonius ~ 3 inches, 3) Oxycirrhites typus ~ 3 inches, 4) Pseudanthias bartlettorum ~ 1.5 inches, 5) Pseudanthias squamipinnis (Maldives) male ~ 3 inches.
<Mmm, you know that the Pseudanthias here are social/shoaling animals?>
They arrived in various shipping containers over a period of a few days with the Bimaculate Anthias, Lyretail Anthias and Longnose Hawkfish arriving first, then the Borbonius a couple of days later, and lastly the Bartlett's Anthias a couple of days after that. All five were drip acclimated over a period of 3 hours to a 45 gallon aquarium with a seeded HOT magnum, a sand bed, live rock with an indeterminate Caulerpa species,
<This genus/family has fallen out of favour... due to toxicity issues>
an Aqua C Remora foam fractionator, the largest Koralia power head, heated to 75 degrees and lighted with 2 110 w 50/50 power compacts.
This tank is strictly for their quarantine before they will be moved to their various new homes within my home. The tank has been set up and running with no medications ever needed for a period of 3.5 years. It's only permanent residents are a handful of snails to keep the glass clean (Nerite, top crown, Cerith), 5 scarlet hermits, amphipods and copepods, a volunteer pink chalice coral (I think) and a Debelius reef lobster whom I seldom see (3+ year resident), but which molted a couple of days ago. The lobster's molt would put him at 3 inches length as well.
<The hawk may work this Lysmata woe in time>
Two weeks before any of the fish were put in, 20 gallons of sea water (Reef Crystals) was replaced, and the specific gravity has been maintained at 1.025 with RO/DI top-offs since. The fish have been in this quarantine about 10 days now. BioSpira was added with their arrival.
All were doing well until 3 days ago when I noted that the Longnosed Hawkfish's beak looked odd. Upon closer inspection, the top of the beak is now missing its distal quarter of soft tissue with a remaining clear
inferior rim of the top beak. The bottom jaw appears unaffected. There is no growth (i.e. bacterial or fungal) to this apparent injury. The fish is vibrant and behaving generally normally for a Hawkfish. That is when first noticed, he was perching and pouncing on frozen PE Mysis and Spirulina enriched brine when offered and consuming it despite his apparent injury.
Now he is still active, vibrant and actively hunting/darting for food, but he keeps his beak open and does not eat despite his obvious interest in the food items. Anthropomorphizing, I am suspecting he is in pain and thus cannot eat.
<Possibly>
Have you seen this happen before?
<Yes... quite a few times>
Is there a way to help him?
<Mmm, doing what you're doing. Providing good care, foods... patience>
How could this have happened?
<Physical trauma... a bump, jump in the night likely>
I can't imagine he stuck his beak in the Koralia, and attacking a lobster his own size seems unlikely. The Longnose Hawkfish likes to rest on a suction cup attaching the heater to the inside of the aquarium. The only aggression I see between these inhabitants is mild chasing of the male Lyretail Anthias by the male Bimaculate Anthias. Everyone else is eating well and look fantastically healthy.
I have been tempted to move the Longnosed Hawkfish to another mostly empty aquaria I have available populated with a small variety of snails and seeded with amphipods and copepods that also has no fish, a seeded HOT magnum, an Aqua C Remora foam fractionator and a Koralia powerhead with the same water parameters, but no macroalgae. However, I am afraid the stress of capturing him would be not only to his detriment, but also his tank mates. I don't believe in using antimicrobials injudiciously, but if he
should be treated with an antibiotic or antifungal, I would want to move him.
<I would not move this specimen>
What do you think? Is he doomed regardless?
<Not doomed, no. I have seen many Oxycirrhites heal from such injuries>
Should I euthanize the poor thing rather than let him starve slowly to death or die of secondary infection?
<I urge patience; time going by here. Continue to offer the PE Mysis...>
I value your opinion.
Regards,
CV
<Thank you for writing so well, complete. Bob Fenner>

Hawkfish Help... Longnose... incomp.?   - 4/19/10
<Hello Ani and/ or Kevin>
I'm afraid I am going to lose my Needlenose Hawkfish soon. I've had it for 2 years and it has grown to four inches long, and up until recently has been healthy and happy. Unfortunately in the last few months it has been harassed by it's tank mates (I have a Coral Beauty, two yellow Damsels and two Chromis) that seem to corral it.
<All of these are harassing the fish?>
If it moves from it's high perch they take turns coming along side it and "escorting" it back to it's spot. I have been hand feeding it all along with bits of silverfish and krill. Only recently it has had trouble eating.
It makes an attempt to grab the food, and misses (almost like he cannot properly aim his snout at the food). He then returns to his perch and basically gives up.
<Getting weaker>
I have tried to coax him to eat by holding food up to his mouth, and manipulating food to flow by him, but it doesn't respond. It's been two weeks since he has eaten, and this morning he is on the floor of the tank behind some live rock. I'm thinking it doesn't have enough energy to remain on his perch.
<Yes, and once they have stopped feeding for a while, often they will never feed again. If it is being harassed, it likely will not feed until it is separated from the bullies>
It is the most entertaining fish in my tank, and has outlived Blennies, a Tang and others, and I'd hate to lose it. My supplier has offered to take the other fish - the Damsels are my starters so have been around since the beginning (2/2006). They have over time become very aggressive as they've gotten larger, and harassed any new fish I've attempted to add.
<Typical>
Same with the Coral Beauty.
<Mmm, I wonder how large this tank is.. I suspect too small for the fishes mentioned>
I plan on removing (returning) them and purchasing fish around the Hawk (if it survives).
<A decision needs to be made as to which fish you want to keep. These are obviously not compatible and should have been separated a long time ago>.
Any thoughts / suggestions?
<Separate the fishes. Pronto.>
The tank is healthy - trites-trates-ammonia-sp.gravity are all in order.
<Better information is always more useful, including real numbers for these & more along with sizes of fishes and the system itself>
Thanks!
<No problem. Simon>

Re: Oxycirrhites Hawkfish Help - added comments 4/20/10
Thanks Simon - I've added comments next to yours..
<No worries. Please don't do this in future though, as this will be impossible to post on the website without looking very confusing to readers, and a large part of the emphasis of this site is to provide a source of information to aquarists. For this reason I will just copy/ paste some relevant info and make a couple of comments here now. I have also corrected grammar/ spelling/ capitals as well. Please read:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/wwmadminsubwebindex/question_page.htm>
Temp 79 degrees, sp. gravity 1.022
<Too low, wants to be 1.025-1.026>
ph 8.2, ammonia 0, nitrites 0,
<ok>
nitrates 40.
<Too high for the Angel & the live rock, and the Hawk as well if he is not in good health>
Tank is 55 gallon - live rock - crabs - Coral Beauty 3" - 2 Yellow Damsels and 1 of the Chromis 3" (really the same size as the Coral Beauty!).
<These are large for Damsels, too large for this sized system with your other fishes, and the source of your problem>
The other Chromis is a runt (he get's harassed a lot) and is approx 2".
<As posted before, you need to separate these fishes, removing permanently the two Damsels and the Angel. 55 gallons is far too small for a Coral Beauty, you want 75 uncrowded gallons at least
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/c_bispinosa.htm. Your high nitrates are related to the stocking also, part of the same problem. If your Hawkfish is a Oxycirrhites typus it wants 60 - 100 uncrowded gallons.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/longnosehawkfish.htm>
Thanks!
<No problem. Simon> 

Long Nosed Hawk question, shrimp comp.   2/16/10
At least generally speaking, is there a size of cleaner shrimp that is relatively safe from a long nosed hawk?
<Mmm, nope. In time all Oxycirrhites can and usually do take on any species, size of cleaner shrimp. Esp. when ecdysing>
I have two large shrimp and want to add a Longnosed hawk. Thanks in advance.
Scott L. Bonder
<Welcome. Bob Fenner>

Long Nose Hawkfish compatibility   1/22/10
Good afternoon,
<Howdy>
I have a 92 gallon corner tank and have a couple of clams. Recently, I have seen that I have a lot of bristle worms and I mean a lot! I'm kind of concerned about the damage that they can do to my system, particularly my clams. I have read that hawk fish hunts these and other types of worms, so I want to add one to my tank. My issue is my other inhabitants, are they at risk? My current stocking list is as follows: 2 clownfish, 1 Midas blenny, 1 Black Sailfin blenny, 1 purple fire fish, 1 red Firefish, 1 Scissortail Dartfish, 1 Barred Dartfish, 1 neon goby, a tube nem, 2 Coral Banded shrimps and a large flame shrimp. Would a long nose hawk fish be compatible with this list. I would choose that one because of their smaller mouths, but not at the cost of my current inhabitants. What alternatives would I have?
<Oh! Other predators... see the Labrids, Stenorhynchus... or traps of a few designs... see WWM's Polychaete Control FAQs files, even Vermifuges if it comes to that...>
Thank you so much in advance.
Bernie H.
<Mmm, might not eat the type/s of worms you have, and may well consume the shrimps you list in time, during moults. Please read here:
http://wetwebmedia.com/hawkfshcompfaqs.htm
Bob Fenner>

Longnosed Hawkfish Not Eating Well -- 09/20/08 I added a long-nosed Hawkfish to my 55 gal FOWLR tank a few weeks back. He appears happy, but is a lousy eater. <<Oh?>> He gets excited with all types of food and joins the others in going after it, but he takes a very long time to make up his mind what to strike at and then he misses at least 90% of his strikes at food. <<Hmm, unusual 'in my experience with this fish>> So, I have been careful to add pieces of raw shrimp or mysis or something he likes after everyone else is slowing down. With this, he eats about two big bites about every two days. Suggestions? <<Hard to say'¦ You are feeding a varied diet? In both selection and morsel size? The fish may appear 'interested' in the food only to discover it's something it doesn't like/want 'though I've not known this fish to be a particularly finicky feeder>> Have you heard of fish whose aim is bad? <<Indeed'¦ Many of the long-snouted fishes (e.g. - Chelmon rostratus, Forcipiger spp., etc.) have trouble competing for food in 'open water' as they are adapted to stalking and plucking their meals from cracks/crevices/holes rather than dashing about in a panicked frenzy to 'get their share' as is the case with most tank feedings. Though they do 'adapt' a bit, and do well as long as feedings are frequent and robust enough to allow them to get something to eat. But, my experience with Oxycirrhites typus has always shown them to be rather adept at snatching food items from the water column. Perhaps your individual was somehow malaffected during capture/transport>>>> His eyes look clear. And it is possible he is eating tiny things when I am not looking, but he is thin. <<This is bad'¦>> Do these guys eat less because they sit and don't swim? <<This fish generally has a very robust appetite. The sitting behavior is this fish's way of hunting'¦'constantly' watching/searching for food>> Is it possible the lights throw him off? <<It is a deeper water species 'but I have seen this fish do well in very brightly-lit reef tanks. Still 'you might consider moving this fish to its own tank (i.e. - your QT tank) for a while to see if you can fatten it up (try some frozen Glass worms re'¦generally a good and nutritious enticement for finicky feeders). It may well just need some (more) time to better adjust to captive care without the bustle and competition of the display tank. Regards, EricR>>

Re: Longnosed Hawkfish Not Eating Well -- 10/25/08 Just an update on the long-nosed Hawkfish with bad aim. <<Hello again Catherine 'thank you for the update>> We've been monitoring the feeding carefully to make sure he gets fed and over time his strikes at food have become better and he is getting more food. <<Hmm'¦perhaps like that seen among other creatures (to include humans), this particular fish had a genetic deficiency/abnormality or even a previous physical event that made what would seem normal/instinct become a learned/re-learned response. And it is no doubt that your good care and devotion to this fish has kept it alive and allowed it to progress to this point>> He has learned to stop within an inch of a food morsel and make a small strike instead of trying to zoom across the tank. With this technique he seems to get most of what he tries for, which is a great improvement from when we first got him. He still misses when he takes too long of a run, but he is adapting well now. <<So very good to know my friend 'thank you again for this update. Eric Russell>>

Long nose Hawkfish... comp...  04/15/2008 I have a 65 gallon tank with 85 lbs of live rock, the tank is about 6 months old and doing well other than the continuous fight against the red slime....I haven't added anything in a long time until I can get control of this issue but my question does not concern that. All tests are coming out ok and water changes 10% is done weekly. <<As a side note, of help, direction. ---> Red slime algae is mainly caused by increased levels of phosphates. Tests will normally show up as zero phosphates because the plague algae has already consumed the trace element. Increased flow, running phos-guard is a good aid in dealing with this.>> I have a star polyp, a mushroom and a bubble tip anemone plus 5 Chromis, two clown fish, a Banggai criminal fish and a long nosed Hawkfish (McGregor). <<Ok>> I did have two cardinal fish but unfortunately one died. The problem is the remaining Hawkfish <<Remaining Cardinal fish here????>> stays near the back of the tank under a rock and seems to be very timid. The Hawkfish seem to have taken a dislike to him/her but it's only visible during feeding time. The hawk will dart back towards the cardinal to keep it from eating. Once the Hawk is full he doesn't bother anymore. I feed all the fish in various locations and then put food in for the cardinal so no one bothers him/her. My question is should I purchase another cardinal to replace the one I lost, it may come out more then or am I asking for more trouble. <<Cardinals do tend to act better in pairs, and yes, i would suggest going down this route. Target feeding in the meantime to ensure the cardinal feeds is a good plan>> This seems to be a scare tactic and there is no aggressive fighting. Thank you for your help once more. Marilee <<Hope this helps, regards. A Nixon>>

Longnose Hawkfish Snout/Jaw Issue?  11/28/2007 Good morning all, <David> I'm frustrated... <... the calm before the storm?> Last December, I set up a 200g FOWLR tank with a deep sandbed (approx 5"). My salinity stays pretty constant at 1.025, temperature at 26.5 - 27.5oc, my water flow is 18X/hr. Water parameters are all in check except Nitrates stay consistent at 20ppm. <Okay> I have a 28" Snowflake Moray, a Magnificent Foxface, Banded Serpent Star, and a Harlequin Tuskfish remaining in the tank. I wrote to Bob a few times in September when my two Bannerfish mysteriously disappeared and were found in my eel's lair. Both fish were aggressive feeders and seemed healthy aside from a few odd behaviors from time to time. The odd behaviours were consistent over the 5+ months that I had them and figured if it was a problem, they would've perished earlier. The ReefCentral Community believes that it would be highly unlikely that the Snowflake would have caught and killed these fish, but likely scavenged on the corpses. <I agree> Anyhow, we've discussed this before. I wanted to comment on my Longnose Hawkfish. I purchased a Longnose Hawkfish in late September. He was always curious and an aggressive feeder who liked to play 'keep away' with my Tuskfish (i.e. grabbing food and running swimming like mad to ensure the Tuskfish didn't steal it from him). About 2 weeks ago, I noticed a small bump on the very tip of my Hawkfishes snout. He was still feeding at the time. A few days later, it almost appeared that where his snout meets his head was a little swollen. Upon a closer look, I wasn't sure... but obviously it must've been for me to notice in the first place? Something didn't look right. The jaw seemed inline looking at it straight on, the fish's coloration remained bright, but something didn't seem right about the jaw... and the fish would always keep it's mouth open a little bit, never closing it. When I noticed the mouth open consistently... it was then that I noticed it wasn't feeding at all... not even taking an interest in any food. The Hawkfish would sit within inches of the eel and the eel would never bother it... the other fish would never pay attention to the Hawkfish, however there was usually a playful chase when the Hawkfish snapped up the last bit of food (being chased by the Tuskfish). Anyhow, so I'd estimate the Hawkfish hadn't had anything to eat for maybe 6-10 days. Yesterday morning, the Hawkfish lay dead on the sandbed... I had noticed the Hawkfish gill beats per minute had increased fairly rapidly over the prior 3 days. Are you familiar with anything that would cause minor swelling around the jaw area of a Longnose Hawkfish? <An injury from bumping into something or being bitten> Like I said, the swelling was hardly noticeable, but the initial bump on the snout certainly was noticeable. I'm almost thinking that the eel mistakenly grabbed the Hawkfish by the snout/head and realized that he wasn't desirable to eat and then released the fish.... Perhaps leaving broken bones into the skull and some bruising with minor swelling? <Not likely... Oxycirrhites are smart... and fast... Perhaps the Choerodon... in going for the same food item... or it could have "jumped", hit the top...> I don't know... there wasn't really any discoloration around the head area and the Hawkfish eyes would still be alert. In your opinion... what could potentially cause the Hawkfish to keep his mouth open or possibly disable the use of his mouth? <See above> It's frustrating because I started this tank with successfully keeping all of my first 5 fish (but I did something stupid with two of them in a hospital tank and know exactly why they perished)... but have lost my last 3 introductions without an obvious sign of what went wrong. I'm only introducing a new one every 4-6 weeks after a 3-4 week quarantine. If fish are collected by cyanide, would it take about 3 - 5 months to start having health problems? <Rarely... most die immediately to within a few days to weeks> While I have your attention, I am using RO/DI water filter since beginning of September. I am averaging about 10g/week water change on a total system volume of about 230g. From Dec 06 - July 07 I was using tapwater and a minor hair algae issue that went away and I had the cleanest tank I've ever had... nice coralline algae and only had to clean my glass once every 6 weeks. About July, hair algae galore!!! Hence I bought the RO/DI unit. Having used it for the past 3 months and using PhosBan for the past 6 weeks... I am noticing little improvement in my hair algae situation. Mind you, leaving the 2xBannerfish corpses in the eels lair vs. taking apart my tank to retrieve the bodies likely didn't help the cause. Am I taking the proper steps with PhosBan and RO/DI ??? My lights are 95W strip and a 65W strip for 9.5hrs/daily. David Brynlund <Is one approach... there are others worth considering... All posted on WWM. RMF>

Longnose Hawk Feeding Habits 9/26/07 Good morning fishy friends! <And to you> First of all, when I retire... I want to join your staff!! What a fun job that would be ?? <Mmm, pays nothing cash-wise> Anyhow, I'm writing today about a new purchase of mine. I had previously written and received a response by Master Fenner :) The summarized info below: 200gallon tank 10months old 4" sandbed 220lbs Tonga liverock 24" Snowflake Moray Eel 2x Bannerfish (very aggressive eaters) 1 Harlequin Tuskfish 1 Magnificent Foxface 1 Banded Serpent Star ** interesting enough, the serpent star usually hangs out in the Moray's lair to cleanup scraps from him I plan on adding (with about a 1 - 2 month gap in between each new addition): 1 Hippo Tang 1 Picasso Trigger 1 Angel (to be determined~ likely won't exceed 14") I currently have in quarantine a Longnose Hawkfish for this tank. Previously Bob thought this was a nice mix of fish. Hopefully anyone else reading this agrees :) <Except for the Angel possibility, I still do> He's been in quarantine for 2 weeks and I plan on keeping him there until I am satisfied with his feeding habits. <Mmm, Oxycirrhites typus? Rarely refuse food in main displays...> With all my fish I mix up my food choices to provide them with a healthy variety and all have learned to eat pretty much anything. Therefore, I offer the variety to my quarantined fish as well. Frozen brine, krill, or herbivorous mix... flake, pellet, small chunks of tiger prawn/clam/squid, and dried seaweed. The Hawkfish is very alert and knows when I am near the tank food will soon be available. What I have noticed is he goes after one or two flakes but seems to spit it out after and then ignores other flakes. <Don't eat flakes... need small, meaty foods, perhaps live at first...> He ignores the tiny pellet food completely but seems interested in the larger pellet food that I feed my other fish. <Don't eat pellets...> With the larger pellet food he clamps down on it and then simply releases it. I don't think he is consuming any pellet. He takes the odd bite of frozen mix but I notice he spits a good portion of it out. The only food item I can see him consistently consuming and swallowing is frozen krill that I have thawed in a measuring cup of tank water. My concern is that he might starve in my 200gallon tank?? <Mmm, no. Doubtful> Again he is very alert and I know when I go to feed he will be present. I'm just not convinced he will go after food items and I may feed my tank krill maybe only once a week. I've read that Hawkfish are easy eaters accepting pretty much anything that will fit in their mouths?? Any thoughts or suggestions? <Yes... read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/longnosehawkfish.htm Try small crustaceans... Grass shrimp...> Next question. This Hawkfish was the largest available. Skinny/small but close to 4 inches. I've definitely seen fatter Longnose hawks before, but then again this is one of the larger ones I've actually seen for sale. My Snowflake Moray completely left two small 2" damsels as well as a Royal Dottyback alone... he seems to have no interest in fish at all. Do you think he would be ok to add at this size? <Yes> I mean, the damsels and Dottybacks are pretty quick. This Hawkfish looks pretty laidback, overly curious... nothing seems to spook him. <They are very alert as you've stated... and quick...> As always thoughts and suggestions are more than welcome. One last tidbit... in your opinion what would be a good angel to fit my guidelines as per above. I guess I'm looking for a medium sized colorful angel for my tank. <Need a larger tank for a largish Pomacanthid species... again... read on WWM re the family, selection...> David Brynlund <BobF>

Longnose Hawk need some information -- 07/18/07 Hi WetWeb, I recently purchased a Longnose hawk from a wholesaler. When I acclimated him and added him to my tank, I noticed that he would always swim straight upward and when he was tired, he would lay against the corner of the glass. He spends more of his time swimming than perching on a rock, is that normal? <Mmm, no... but not uncommon with recently collected specimens... Oxycirrhites spends most of the time hidden amongst "black coral" and gorgonian growth... is unnaturally placed in too-small systems w/o this natural protection... takes a while to adjust> He swims slanted with his nose facing up most of the time. He has not eaten anything, I heard these are easy to feed animals, or is that incorrect? It has been 3 days since I purchased him. He spends alot <No such word> of time swimming near the surface with his nose touching the surface water. Is this stress? Thanks Tommy <Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/longnosehawkfish.htm and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Longnose Hawkfish and Stomatella Snails? - 05/27/07 Hi, <<Hello>> Our family has been talking about fish choices for our 120G tank with 25G sump. <<Planning/researching is half the fun, eh?>> Current inhabitants are a Rainford's goby, 3 Green Chromis, 2 Anthias, 1 Pink Skunk and a Scribbled Rabbitfish. <<Neat!>> We were thinking of adding a Longnose Hawkfish, but I'm worried he will snack on our Stomatella snail! <<Mmm, is a "possibility">> I love these little guys.  They reproduce easily and are great tiny cleaners.  Having seen them almost wiped out within a few weeks by 2 Peppermint Shrimp, I really don't want to add anything to the tank that could endanger them again. <<I see>> The Peppermint Shrimp found a new home with a fellow reefer. <<These are hardly a "reef safe" species of shrimp...quite predaceous>> Is a Hawkfish likely to go for them? <<Oxycirrhites typus typically feeds on small crustaceans and worms (small "Featherduster" worms will be in danger)...if kept well fed I think the danger to your snails is low>> And I have the same question about wrasses? <<These are more likely to be a threat to the Stomatellas than the Longnose Hawkfish...in my opinion>> Are there any "snail safe" ones? <<A Halichoeres species are your best bet...though if a snail is "small enough" to fit in its mouth it will likely be consumed>> Thanks in advance! I read extensively on your site and have learned a lot over the years. <<Ahh, very good...but have you read this?   http://www.wetwebmedia.com/longnosehawkfish.htm >> Best regards, Susanne <<Good luck with your choices/decisions.  EricR>>

Longnose Hawkfish Feeding   12/8/06 Hello, from Brooklyn. <Man! Wish I was there having pizza... but, wait, how warm is it presently? Maybe I'll stick with the CostCo brand here in not-so-sunny S. Cal.> I¹d like some advice on a Longnose Hawkfish I recently purchased. I¹m already smitten with the little guy, and want to be certain he¹s getting enough to eat. <Good> First, I make sure to feed my other (faster) fish their flakes ­ which he steadfastly ignores. Then, when they¹re done with their flakes, I drop some frozen brine shrimp into a little floating feeding station. He¹s getting the routine down and gulps down the shrimp with fervor; but I worry that my quick-to-eat-all Tang and Clown are getting too much of his brine shrimp. <And Artemia alone won't sustain this fish> He seems to get enough good bites in (he¹s no more than 2²); but then kind of acts hungry afterward. How do I know whether or not I¹m feeding him enough, without overfeeding his tankmates? Thanks in advance for any advice you¹ve got to give! Cheers, Rosi <Mmm, a couple of things... a good idea to train the more-eager eaters to feed on the opposite "side" of the tank... and secondly, you need to investigate other discrete (sizeable, whole) meaty food items (likely crustaceans) to proffer... Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/hawkfshfdgfaqs.htm and here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/longnosehawkfish.htm and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Feeding Longnose Hawkfish  - 04/11/2006 One week ago, I obtained a small (2") Longnose Hawkfish.  Thus far, he will only eat Sweetwater Plankton, or live amphipods which I catch in my refugium.  He hunts in the tank all day long, catching animals so small that I cannot see them.  He will not take any flakes (Prime Reef) or pellets (New Life Spectrum), and I want to get him going on those.  I don't want to catch 'pods every day, and Sweetwater Plankton is difficult because the tank is located at my office & the refrigerator is far away.  Any suggestions on the pellets?  <The pellets are probably too large for the hawk.  I'd try some vitamin enriched frozen brine as a start, to wean him from the live food.  Once he accepts this, you can try some frozen Ocean Nutrition cubes, Formula 1.> Thank you,  <You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)> Steve in Denver

Longnose Hawkfish - 12/22/05 Hi! <<Hello!>> I have always loved the Longnose Hawkfish. <<Me too!>> My question is...will it terrorize any of the following specimens in my 75Gal reef tank. I have: 3 Toadstool leather corals 1 Large Colt Coral 30+ mushrooms 30+ Polyps 1 6-8" BTA and one small finger coral. I also have blue-leg hermits, scarlet hermits, Astrea, Cerith and Nassarius snails, a brittle star, 3 cleaner shrimp and 2 Peppermint shrimp.  I also have  about 150lbs of live rock. Is there anything in the tank I would have to be concerned about if I added this fish? <<The shrimp, and possibly the snails, are possible targets for this fish...though I have never witnessed this personally.  I have kept this fish with both in the past with no problems, but that is no guarantee for you.>> Thanks! Kate <<Regards EricR>>

Longnose Hawkfish has Cancer?   12/2/05 Hi  <Hello Jessica> I just got back from Thanksgiving vacation to find my Longnose Hawkfish (Pick-nick: because he looks like a pick-nick table cloth) with what seems to be a white mass at the base of his fin. I have searched the sight but only found a description of what it might be (Lymphocystis).  He hasn't eaten in about three days that I know of. My roommate, who watched the tank while I was away, said Pick-nick was eating out of her hand when I was gone. There was a temp. spike while I was away. It went from 78.9 to 83 degrees but is now under control at 78.9. Could this have caused the infection? I did a 5 gallon water change 3 days ago. Is another water change in order? I love this fish and will do anything to save him. Are there any remedies for this ailment? Thanks for all the help in advance!  <If indeed the fish has Lymphocystis, it is rarely life threatening. Temperature change would have nothing to do with this. Keep up the 10% weekly water changes as should be done anyway and you may want to add an antibiotic to the tank. James (Salty Dog)>  <<Lympho is often associated with poor conditions, just as with HLLE.  Marina>>

Longnose Not Doing Well >Hi, I am hoping someone can help. >>Hello. >I have a Longnose Hawkfish.  I noticed he was not eating as well as he does normally.  I also noticed he was perching a little crooked on the rocks.  Now I have noticed his left eye is bulging out.  Do you think he got hurt, or could it be some sort of disease.   >>One eye tends to be from injury, if it were disease it would present equally and bilaterally.   >Should I quarantine him?  Any advice would be helpful.  Thanks Debbie >>You may wish to figure out who/what is causing him injury.  In the meantime, it may certainly be the case that, until you get it sorted, q/t is best.  Marina

Longnose Not Doing Well - Follow up >Thanks for your prompt reply.  I don't know who would be bothering him.  I only have a 35 gallon tank, with 5 fish.  I have had him since October, and have seen on bullying from other fish.  I guess I will try QT him, maybe he will recover faster, if he does not have to fight for food.  Debbie >>Ahh.. this is telling.  Longnose hawks, as you may very well be aware, are known jumpers.  I am guessing that in such a small tank he may have hurt *himself*.  In which case, there's likely no need to move him, but you might wish to consider future digs for him, especially if this occurs again.  Marina

Shrimp, The Tasty Hawkfish Treat (3/15/04) Hi,   I have a 40 gallon with a sixline wrasse, Firefish, and Randall's shrimp goby.  I also have a banded coral shrimp and would like to get a Longnose Hawkfish, but am a bit concerned, as I have the shrimp.  Since this shrimp is larger than most other species, would it be advisable to place a Longnose Hawkfish in with my shrimp?  Thanks!! A.  <You'd be surprised what this Hawkfish can swallow with that "little mouth." If it can't take it in one bite, it will break it up. It may take a year or even longer, but the Long-nosed Hawkfish will eventually eat the shrimp. I'd suggest you choose something else. Steve Allen.>

Long nosed Hawkfish I was doing a compatibility check on the fish I am doing with my reef tank, One of my fave fish is the Longnosed hawk, but they are not compatible with Inverts, is this true? I don't know what type of clean up crew I am wanting yet, but if I just choose snails, and a lawnmower blenny, will this be ok then to add the Hawk? or is it dealing with the Anemones, and mushrooms, and feather dusters? if I cant add him its no biggy, but I really want one, so any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks Tawny >> Thank you for writing. This is one of my favorite families (the Hawkfishes, Cirrhitidae) and species (Oxycirrhites typus)... and other than small crustaceans (shrimp, tiny crabs), they are "reef safe" in my opinion... and won't eat or bother your snails, Blenny, anemones, mushrooms...  Bob Fenner

Hawk vs. hawk <Lorenzo Gonzalez, standing in for Bob-in-Asia> Question: Can a flame Hawkfish and a Longnose Hawkfish tolerate each other? What about other hawks? Thanks! <It's possible in a relatively large system, but it'll be a bit of a balancing act, they'll set up territories, and occasionally-to-frequently harass each other. I'd say you need a 120 gallon or larger tank to pull it off long term, even then they may just kill each other anyway. -Lorenzo>

Thanks for the great info. (Hawkfish choices) Hello Bob, Just happened to come across your article on Reefs.org I was looking for Hawkfish info. Longnose and Flame to be exact I did a search and your article came up. great summary) <Thank you> I was wanted to get a Longnose or a Flame this weekend I read conflicting info all over some say the Flame does not do well some say very hardy. <I'm of the "more hardy" opinion> I've seen a couple different Flames one was quite an aggressive feeder and another Flame seemed a bit shy hiding under a rock. <Both traits of most individuals of this species> The Flame is my 1st choice but as I said no reliable info on it. The Longnose seemed in better spirits and I would rather a more spirited fish than one who is better looking but too shy. What's your opinion on these 2 fish? <The Flame is a far more consistent species in the trade... Oxycirrhites typus can be great to bunk... highly variable. Both are tough animals when started initially healthy> Can both be housed together in a 30 GAL? <Hmm, no... the Longnose especially needs larger quarters... like twice this size> I have a pair of common Clowns and a blue fin Damsel at the moment. There are 5 stores that specialize in marine fish within 3 miles of each other and 3 more stores within 5miles of each other here in Miami. <Wow, you're lucky> In your article you mentioned Miami is there a distribution site here? <Yes, a principal one in the U.S.> My next ? is how do I decide which shop to buy from? Healthy looking fish. Do I ask where the fish come from? Will I ten have a clue if the fish was poisoned? <A worthy question... Do ask the origin of collection... and try to avoid the Philippines and Indonesia... these fishes are collected elsewhere and are better from... Hawai'i, Marshalls, Christmas for the Longnose, Cooks, Fiji, Micronesia, Guam et al. for the Flame...> I would definitely buy from the Mom /Pop store if all the other essentials are there: products price and healthy fish practices and friendly knowledgeable help. <Don't be overly concerned about price... How much are specimens that will likely die soon worth?> I was looking on the net for books on the marine fish subject and came across "THE CONSCIENTIOUS MARINE AQUARIST" from reading the editorial review and the peoples review it's exactly what I've been looking for. <Oh, I know the author> Only one problem on this particular website it says your book has not yet been published it will be in 3/01 well it seems we are 4 months due <Hmm, really? It is about... can be ordered from the publisher: http://www.microcosm-books.com/> I'm referring to the hardcover edition, your paperback is fine. So they say for me to preorder and when available I will be notified. Do you know if the Hardcover is available as yet or is it that they are behind in updating their system? <It is available> The description lists the Hardcover contains less pages than the previous edition, are some things deleted, what new has been added? <What? I have the latest edition... and paperback... 430 pages each... only the cover is different I believe> What are the differences between the 2, should I just get the paperback version if the newer one doesn't become available soon? <The only common complaint about the softbound I recall is that it "falls apart" from use... Bob Fenner> Thanks Long nosed Hawkfish Hi, <greetings, my friend> In my last letter -- which you brilliantly answered (thank you) --  <thank you for being so easily impressed> I inquired about the possibility of keeping a long nosed Hawkfish in my 25 gallon reef tank. I have continued to hear mixed reviews on this fish's compatibility with the reef tank. <almost all attributed to confusion between the characteristic behavior of most (blunt nosed) Hawkfish, against this uncommon (long-nosed) member of the family> I hear that it is not a nuisance to corals, <agreed> but "might" eat some or all of my shrimp, <difficult for this narrow snout species, but likely for most other Hawkfish> or at the very least annoy them. <possibly. especially when larger> So, I'm a bit confused. <oh, ya... try living in my Adult ADD(H) child's head... hehe> While it's obviously not a rare fish in stores, it's still one of my favorites <very unique.. a favorite of mine too> and given the right circumstances I would definitely purchase one.  <in my mind...no more of a risk than a dwarf angel would be to some coral... a calculated risk> So, suffice to say I'm on the fence with this one. I really appreciate your input and have begun looking into Firefishes as your last message suggested. I am very intrigued with these fish, too.  <excellent...beautiful, hardy and long-lived if given the passive, peaceful tank that they need... but not so with clowns, damsels, tangs and the like> Thanks! Ari Klein <Ciao, bub...Anthony>

Fish compatibility question Hi, I'm wondering if I could add a Longnose Hawkfish to the following inhabitants of my 46 gallon reef: 1 pair false clowns female is about 3"; male about 1 1/2"), one pair Banggais (about 2"), and 2 scarlet cleaner shrimp about 3-4" each).  <so far compatible> I've heard and read different things about the habits and appetites of the Longnose hawks, so I'd appreciate your input. Oh, I also have scarlet hermits, assorted snails, an emerald crab,  <hmmm... hawks are notorious for nipping harassing and sometimes regularly eating crustacea and mollusks like shrimp and snails. The Longnose is one of the least offensive of the hawks though> soft corals and a bubble coral, open brain, and frogspawn. If it's not a good idea, any suggestions for a colorful, interesting fish that would be less shy than the Banggais who spend almost all their time behind the reef except when feeding?  <a very simple school of green. blue Chromis damsels can be quite striking or some deepwater Caribbean blue Chromis if the budget allows> I was thinking maybe royal Gramma, or 6-line wrasse, but I really like the Longnoses. Thanks, as always, for your help! <the Gramma is nicely hardy and polite... but can be rather shy. Six-lines are great little fish but can be quite mean to passive tankmates like the clowns or cardinals. Best regards, Anthony>

Starving Hawkfish Robert,            Since you helped me heal my Blue Rings lip (the golden puffer bit a bottom chunk off by accident when going after the same piece of food about a year ago). I thought you might be of service again... I have a long nose hawk about 3" long who USED to eat like a stud!! Well, the eating has stopped for about 2 weeks; I put some appetite stimulant in the tank (Cravex Plus by Aquatronics) every other day last week to no avail (but the marine Betta is eating me out of house and home!!) he swims after the food, live, flake, freeze-dried, etc. <What live foods have you tried? I would seek out someone who has/sells amphipods, mysids and try these live or not... with some of the Cravex or similar (I would rather use Selcon) soaked into it a good five minutes before offering> but continually misses his strikes at it, he's starting to get real skinny on me (not good). I don't think he's blind? <Doubtful> his eyes still look gin clear. If you or your staff help me it (once again) would be GREATLY APPRECIATED!!     Thanks, Gary     p.s. The Blue Ring looks like new <Good to hear of the Angels recovery. Do try soaking the crustaceans. Bob Fenner>

- Mystery Spot - Hello, <Good morning, JasonC here...> I have had Snarky, a Long Nose Hawk, for approximately one and half years. Tonight I noticed, for the first time, this black spot on gill next to his eye.  I netted him, and he let me attempt removing the spot, but it would not come loose, as if there was nothing clinging to his body.  I can not tell if it is Turbellarian, or if he had developed a beauty mark, that I just happened to notice after all this time. I have attached a good picture of the spot I am referring to for your examine, and I can magnify this picture, and resend it if you need a closer view of it.  I would appreciate if you could let me know what your assessment is ASAP, so I can begin treatment if required. <I think this is most likely something similar to a bruise.> I am also scheduled to leave on vacation this Friday. It always seems that stuff like this happens before I go on vacation. <Ain't that the truth.> Anyway, my tank is very healthy, and I don't suspect this to be an illness, since Snarky isn't exhibiting any loss of appetite, scratching, or listlessness, it's just that it seems like an unnatural marking amongst his red and white pattern.  What do you think? <I think it will be fine - will go away in time.> Thank you for having such an informative site/resource for an aquarist to improve their fish friends' health and well being. Sincerely, Joel <Cheers, J -- >

- Single Black Spot - Hello, I think I missed your assessment.   Should I be concerned or not? <It's my opinion that the spot is just a bruise. No cause for concern.> Thank you, Joel <Cheers, J -- >

Long nosed Hawkfish temp requirements Hello I have a 70 gallon fish - only  temperate marine aquarium.  I live in England and the tank stays at 70 -72 ' F . I have a couple of native Blennies and 2 small native wrasse.   I  have recently added a 2" Picasso trigger which seems to have adjusted to the cooler water without any ill effects. (just as the guys at LFS said).   <Picasso Triggerfish are very adaptive to semitropical water temperatures, as their natural environment ranges south to the South African coast.> However,  they could not tell me if the Long nosed Hawkfish would be happy at the lower temp, just that it is a very hardy fish. <Although restricted to tropical areas, i.e.: the Indo-Pacific Ocean/Red Sea (with a lower temperature limit of 75 degrees F), with careful acclimation and a feeding regime mindful of the animal's slower metabolism in the cooler water, it should be fine, as long as the temperature remains in the 70's F> Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance Matt <Best, Chris>

- Another Follow-up on Freshwater Dips - Would you consider Longnose Hawkfish a fish? <Of course - it's certainly not a bird or a horse.> The ich seems never affected it. <They are just durable and disease resistant.> Would you recommend a cleaner wrasse for the tank since it feeds on external parasites? <No. Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/labroide.htm >  I bought one last weekend because I had seen them servicing the fishes, hoping this one would perform the same function.  Yet this new wrasse never approached/touched the fishes w/ ich. <Is probably getting used to the new environment.> Is that strange? <Not really.> I wonder if the ich on the fishes scared the wrasse away. <I doubt it. Cheers, J>

Longnose Hawk Questions >Hi, >>Hello. >I just purchased a Hawkfish.  He is now in quarantine.   >>Good words. >Will he want to eat my feather duster in my main tank?   >>No. >I was asked if I had shrimp in my tank when I purchased him, because they said he may eat them.   >>I've kept many Longnose hawks, and have never had a problem with the different Lysmata species I've kept with them. >I do not have shrimp, but do have a duster.  Do you think he will bother it?  Thanks.  Debbie >>Nope, all will be well.  Marina

Longnose Hawk (10-3-03) Hi,<Howdy, Cody here today.> How long should a tank be kept running, before any fish are introduced. Bearing in mind that this set up is (Marine).  And could you give me any advice regarding the Longnosed Hawkfish.  <The time before it is safe to add fish all depends on numerous factors which can be researched at our site:  www.wetwebmedia.com.  There is also tons of info on the hawk there also.  Cody.> Regards Aaron.

- Longnose Hawkfish and Shrimp - Good Day! <Hello to you.> Firstly, I'd like to thank you for such quick responses to me and everyone else whom depends on you and everyone else involved.  You guys are a blessing for us to be able to get in touch with.  Truly, we consider ourselves lucky.  Thank you. I would refrain from sending in question(s), because I'd rather read through everyone else's questions and problems to see if maybe I can find the answer here within the pages of the site, rather than use of your valuable time.  This time around, I haven't been able to find any readings that make me lean towards more of a well informed and wiser decision.     My livestock consists of-     1 Banggai Cardinal     2 Seahorses     1 Fridmani Pseudochromis     1 Yellow Clown Goby     4 Hawaiian Feather Dusters     3 Peppermint Shrimp     1 Scarlet Skunk Cleaner Shrimp     Numerous Nassarius, Cerith, Trochus Snails and numerous Hermits (scarlet reef, dwarf blue legged, dwarf zebra, dwarf red tipped) * 31 pounds of Fiji live rock and almost 28 pounds of live sand plus Caulerpa (30 gal tank) I'm amazed, even though I'm used to it by now... but how well the Banggai cardinal, fridmani Pseudochromis and yellow clown goby get along.  They truly seem to be "buddies"-and don't mind the presence of each other at all.  As a matter of fact they more often than not, hang out together in a little group.  I just got lucky I guess.  That's half the game on some gambles!  Choke it up to the hobby of fish keeping. I ordered a Longnose Hawkfish... I was guided in a direction where as my shrimp are quite a decent size, so he/she may wind up really ignoring them... but as with all livestock, nothing and nothing is predictable.  I cherish my shrimp and especially since I've had one pass away due it's not being able to finish its molting (as I've emailed you prior)    Granted there are no WILLs and WON'TS about keeping a Longnose Hawkfish with these tank inhabitants I already have stocked, but for the most part-with a sharp eye on his behavior and taking the time to see how he reacts to everyone else in the tank over a decent period of time... I was told he would quite possibly be fine in the system.  On the other hand, I've read here a few times that keeping the Longnose Hawkfish along with some of the livestock I have... is more of a risk than it is a chance for the Longnose Hawkfish to wind up being peaceful.  After reading what one of you or your partners wrote, I decided I loved my shrimp far too much to risk the chance of them being considered PREY.  I cancelled my order for the Longnose Hawkfish!  ((((sad sad sad face)))) Can you tell me one on one, why you would consider or wouldn't consider keeping the Longnose Hawkfish in your system if you had mine? <Mostly because all Hawkfish are carnivorous predators. As you mentioned, there are variations and possibilities, but if you really value that shrimp I wouldn't do it. Mostly because things will likely be fine for a year and then one day... the Hawkfish will decide it's time for a snack.> Lastly... I'd like to have at least one more fish... and it's a bit hard to find one that is going to be peaceful and compatible with close to every single inhabitant in the tank... but I think I've come across one... The Filamented Flasher Wrasse... Your opinion on keeping one of these with my described livestock as my last fish for the system????? <Well, you didn't mention the size of the tank...>  Or could you possibly think it's already way too overstocked, or close to be overstocked??? <Really depends on the size of the tank.> Of all fishes whom lend exotic visuals and more of a peaceful temperament... I narrowed it down to the Filamented Flasher Wrasse... maybe you will tell me otherwise. <Is a very pretty fish, but needs some room to be happy.> I can't wait to hear from you guys!!!!  Your time is always appreciated more than you can fathom.  Peace out. Rocko
<Cheers, J -- >

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