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FAQs about Pectiniid Corals

Related Articles: Pectiniids, SPS Corals

Related FAQs: Stony/True Coral, Coral System Set-Up, Coral System Lighting, Stony Coral Identification, Stony Coral Selection, Coral PlacementFoods/Feeding/Nutrition, Disease/Health, Propagation, Growing Reef CoralsStony Coral Behavior, SPS Identification, SPS Behavior, SPS Compatibility, SPS Selection, SPS Systems, SPS Feeding, SPS Disease, SPS Reproduction,

At right: an Oxypora lacera in an exhibit in Hawai'i's Waikiki Aquarium.

Can You Please Help Me Identify This Coral? 03/22/08
Dear Sir or Madam,
We purchased this beautiful coral from a local merchant and was told by one employee that it was a Blastomussa and by another that it was a Pavona.
<Haha, wow, that's quite a difference of opinion! It is not either of these.>
Both of which to us it does not look like. Can you please tell us what it is?
<It's impossible to accurately ID without a close look at the exposed skeleton, but it looks like a Pectinia sp. to me.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/pectiniids.htm>
Best regards,
Marc & Belinda Barry
<Best,
Sara M.>

Coral Identification... Echinophyllia 12/28/2007
Hello Crew
<Hi Claire, Mich here asking forgiveness in my tardy reply.>
I was wondering whether you would be able to identify this coral for me.
<Is hard with just a photo... but I will certainly try.>
I was thinking either Oxymora lacera, or Echinophyllia aspera ... or I could be completely wrong and it is something totally different?
<I think it may be an Echinophyllia. The corallites in Echinophyllia typically occur at many different angles and are often raised and bumpy. The corallites in Oxymora are generally more patterned and regular.>
Thanks for any help you can give me.
<Hope this helps! Mich>
Claire

Candy Cane... Uh, no... and other nonsense from not reading WWM   7/10/07
Hi Crew,
The attached was sold to me as a candy cane. It does not look like my other candy canes which have branches. Is it a Favia?
<Mmm, no... wrong family... But right Class! Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/pectiniids.htm>
Recently I got some corals from 3 different people and put them in my tank. Now there is ick.
<...>
First my neon gobies got it and my clown goby. I removed them and treated with copper but the neons died.
>...<
The clown looked very bad but now is clear and is eating. I still have a Gramma in the display and a cardinal. The Gramma has it and I did not catch it yet.
<The last is the operative word>
But he is still eating. The cardinal is still clean. I understand that if I do not remove all then they are hosts.
<Bingo, double Bingo today!>
But if the cardinal does not get it and the others recover and I do not remove the cardinal will the clown and Gramma get it as soon as I return them to the display or will they have gotten immune?
Thanks
<... Drizzard, drazzard, drizzerd drone, time for this one to read... See WWM re all this... the indices, search tool. Bob Fenner>

Echinophyllia care, Berghia nudibranch in main display  - 09/03/06
  Hello once again.  I have a couple of questions for you.  I recently purchased a 3" purple and red Echinophyllia which I had researched before the purchase, and believe needs to be placed in bright light with moderate flow, correct?
<Mmm, within defined terms. Please see here: http://www.google.com/custom?domains=www.WetWebMedia.com&q=echinophyllia&sitesearch=www.WetWebMedia.com&client=pub-4522959445250520&forid=1&ie=ISO-8859-1&oe=ISO-8859-1&cof=GALT%3A%23008000%3BGL%3A1%3BDIV%3A%23336699%3BVLC%3A663399%3BAH%3Acenter%3BBGC%3A99C9FF%3BLBGC%3A336699%3BALC%3A0000FF%3BLC%3A0000FF%3BT%3A000000%3BGFNT%3A0000FF%3BGIMP%3A0000FF%3BFORID%3A1%3B&hl=en>
The coral appears to look the same day and night, which doesn't seem right to me ( doesn't seem to "swell up" during the day).  I don't have a picture of the coral but it looks like a plating variety, similar to a plating Montipora with more "bumps".  I have it about 12" under water directly beneath a 250 watt metal halide light.  Is this too much light?  
<... Mmm, you state you "recently" acquired this colony/animal... takes a while to adapt (weeks...)... shouldn't be exposed to much more light than it was... See WWM re photo-acclimation of scleractinians>
    My other question is, on the website www.saltyunderground.com it says you can put Berghia nudibranchs directly into your main display which conflicts with other things I've read.  They suggest 8 per 100 gallons.  I have plenty of Aiptasia, what do you think of this idea?
<Is done "all the time">
I have a clown fish, blue flavivertex Pseudochromis, Kole tang, cleaner shrimp and a bubble tip anemone.
<Not a good idea to mix with stony, soft corals...>
My thought was that by adding 8 to my tank a couple would hopefully survive long enough to reproduce and get rid of the Aiptasia.
<"So many foxes, so many rabbits"...>
I know the Aiptasia are a result of too many nutrients in the water but I do a 10 percent weekly water change and feed corals and fish lightly, and don't know what else to do to keep them from reproducing (remora pro protein skimmer).
<... see WWM re>
  I have a 90 gallon tank with a 20 gallon overflow, would a bigger protein skimmer help...what would you suggest?
<That you read>
  Euro-reef models seem to be getting cheaper and I was thinking about getting a RS model rated for 135 gallons.  All my tests
read 0 for anything bad, but believe this is a result of my "Aiptasia filter".
<You are wise here>
Would adding some macro algae help compete for nutrients?
<Mmm, yes>
I guess that was more than a couple questions.  Thanks for your help and your website, Ryan.
<Keep using it. Bob Fenner>

Pectinia sp. slime 7/10/05
Thanks for fielding my question.
<Welcome>
Recently, my Pectinia coral experienced some shock.  It fell from it's perch midway up my 140gal tank (28" tall), mixed tank 2x400MH and 2x 110w VHO, all other tank parameters are perfect.  I moved it to a new place, because I could not get it to stay in it's original place.  Some of the internal skeleton was showing from where pieces broke off.  Some of the damaged began to slime... a lot.  And now the slime has covered a lot of the rock with bubbles attached to the slime streamers.  None of my other coral are declining because of this, but it looks like I have a serious case of Cyanobacteria, which I do not think it is.  I have had that before!!!
I have been sucking the slime off the rocks while doing small water changes all week and plowing the slime off the rocks every night, so my skimmer can do some of the work.  My protein skimmer is running full time and skimming dark green waste.  New carbon in the sump.
It looks like my Pectinia is recovering after a week of this.  It is a beautiful coral under actinic lights.  Is there any thing else that I should be doing?
thanks you for your time.
cde
<I would check your alkalinity, calcium levels, bolster if low, add the activated carbon to your filter flow path... and dose with an iodide solution. Bob Fenner>

Pectinia paeonia propagation 6/29/05
Mr. Fenner: I love your website, it is a tremendous resource. I was hoping to get either Anthony Calfo, or Eric Borneman's opinion on the possibilities of fragging Pectinia Paeonia.
<Anthony here with bells on... earring too... a tight lil purple dress. Its a good day.>
I have read your page on the Pectiniids, and realize that there is little demand, and a slow growth rate for these corals. But is it possible to propagate these the same way as SPS  fragmentation?? i.e., breaking into smaller pieces and supergluing them to "plugs"?
<Yes... similar>
Or does this coral require an LPS method where the skeleton must be cut, and the tissue allowed to grow apart?
<Not at all... the latter being too slow/conservative>
My concern arises with the mouth shaped orifice located deep within the flutes of the coral... Thank you. Ben Ward
<Pectinia can simply be sawn without care or caution to include a mouth with every frag. Use a masonry saw blade... preferably a wet saw (cooling the blade... less tissue damage). Cheap DIY tile cutting saws work fine here. Just rip into fast clean sections. We just did a fab demonstration of this at IMAC. Go to theimac.org and you will see DVDs of it for sale in a few weeks (cheap too). Maintain good water flow on the divisions... and be sure to make lateral or lower moves, but not higher, when returning the frags to the tank. Best of luck! Anthony>
 

 


 

 

 

 

 

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